Sheathing a wooden house with siding with your own hands. Video - Vertical trim

Siding is one of the types of building materials for wall cladding. With it, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at a low cost, if the house is still solid, but already quite old. In addition, finishing, sheathing with siding is used outside.

Laid on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. And all the work will help to do the right step-by-step instructions for self-plating the house with siding.

A bit of history

This type of sheathing was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, strong, light ships were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the very word siding (Siding) is translated as tes. Northern peoples have adopted this technology to insulate their homes by sheathing their homes with battens. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular with Russian pioneers.

Today, siding is made from modern building materials:

• Vinyl;
• metal;
• Cement (fiber cement siding);
• tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private house without significant financial costs.

Preparing for sheathing

Preparatory work for cladding a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If there are visible influxes of masonry mortar, they just need to be knocked down. Protruding nails or drive back or remove altogether. Small protrusions, more than 6 mm high, should also be eliminated if possible.

Inspection

When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify the unevenness of the walls, plinth, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever cladding work is planned with siding. Such measurements are best done using a long standard metal rail, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places - no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular, but diamond-shaped, then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door - 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
The building can eventually sink to one side and tilt. The slope of the wall or the entire building is checked with a plumb line. Allowed deviation from the vertical is not more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is more than allowed, then it is already in a pre-emergency state. If it is not eliminated, then further siding work is simply meaningless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, it is required to carry out a set of preparatory work. The platbands, drains, gratings, etc. are removed. If cracks are found in the walls, near window and door openings, seal them either with mounting foam or simply with cement mortar. If you find: cracked plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on facing the house with siding, make sure that you have a complete set of available tools:

• Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Roulettes (with laser it is easier and more convenient to work);
• Building level;
• Stairs.

How to cut extensions

When facing the building, part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places you will have to make additions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding, siding, a tool for cutting panels is also selected.

For vinyl

• Electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Sharp knife-cutter;
• Universal;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Shoe knife.

metal siding

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• circular electric saw with teeth from Pobedit.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the place of the cut, with damage to the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all the necessary material, you can simply contact a large hardware store. It is enough for the seller to simply describe in detail what area of ​​the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of material for work.

And in order to control the quality of the goods, you need to know what signs the material for cladding the house with siding should correspond to:

1. The same thickness throughout the panel.
2. Mandatory presence of special markings on the inside of the panel. Such marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, release date. If there was not enough material for sheathing during the work, you can always buy it in addition, focusing on this marking.
3. High-quality panels have an anti-hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
4. A sure sign that a company takes care of its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories in a set with materials.
5. All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage should be 50 years.
6. Responsible sellers will definitely attach instructions for installing siding to the purchased product.

Lathing installation

First, markup is done. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house, so that a closed contour is obtained. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to make measurements with a tape measure to determine the minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the mounting horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary in order to constantly circulate air under the siding, preventing the appearance of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made of a special profile. For log walls, slats with a section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the installation of the crate is carried out on wooden and aerated concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is mandatory.

Insulation of the walls with a mineral plate is carried out at the request of the owner of the house, but a moisture-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a waterproofing layer is attached on top of it. Since a ventilation gap between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a crate is built over the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the batten is ready, it's time to install siding accessories such as:

• external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
• slats for window and door openings;
• ebbs on the basement of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding bar so that the upper edge runs along the line. Corner elements are fixed rigidly on self-tapping screws at the very top of the extreme hole. The screws following it are twisted into the middle of the slot in 50 cm increments.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be increased by another, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Framing the window begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. Side window trims are installed on this ledge. From below, the ebb is held by a j-profile. After installing the siding, window decoration is completed by installing platbands.

The process of edging a doorway is almost the same as a window.

Panel installation

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to the LEGO constructor. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from the bottom. From above, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing bar.

Basic installation rules

1. It is imperative to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
2. Maintain a gap of 10 mm between the slats and guides. This will protect the siding from damage as it expands in hot weather.
3. Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. The house is of an old construction, and it is simply necessary to insulate the corner room, in winter it is cold, damp and there is mold on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the whole house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not very well made. Deviation from the plane, about 20 mm. So far, we have decided that the horizontal lining will show all the flaws, and the vertical one will hide it, but we doubt it.

The question arose before winter to sheathe the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I read a bunch of different tips, sites that tell what and how to do. But so that someone specifically and put everything on the shelves, I did not find it. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do it and what is needed. As a result, I bought beige metal siding and got to work. Since it was a vacation, everything was done quickly with a friend. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The end result is a happy wife and a beautiful home. Thanks for the article, it was very helpful.

If we talk about the simplest, fastest and relatively inexpensive way to finish the facade of a house, then undoubtedly we will talk about vinyl siding, which, as if by magic, is able to eliminate all the external defects of the building and give the facade a pretty decent look. It is about this technology for the manufacture of ventilated facades that we will talk in this article, where, together with the website, we will study the question of how to sheathe a house with siding with our own hands.

Facade cladding with siding is somewhat comparable to walls with plastic panels - there is no significant difference here, except perhaps for the frame. In all other respects, these are almost identical technologies.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands

How to make a frame for attaching siding panels

If you master the manufacture of a metal crate for siding with your own hands, then you can say that you have completed 90% of all work. But it will not be so easy to do this - the siding frame must have increased strength and withstand all weather conditions. Let's be consistent and start in order.

First you need to markup - you need to determine the installation location of fasteners on the wall. This is done as follows: strictly vertical lines are marked from each of the corners of the building at a distance of 20 cm, relative to which they will be installed. All other profiles located between them are marked with the same horizontal lines in increments of 600 mm. It is better to mark the verticals completely from top to bottom so that they can be viewed along the entire height of the building.

The next step in assembling the frame will be the installation of brackets holding the profiles - on each vertical they must be installed every 80 cm, starting from the very bottom of the walls. U-shaped brackets, depending on the material of the walls of the building, are fixed to them either with dowels or with self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation photo

Next, we mount the carrier profiles. You need to start with corners. With the help of a level, they achieve a clear vertical position and are attached to the U-shaped brackets. Special attention should be paid to these two profiles on each side of the house - the integrity and uniformity of the plane of the future facade depends on them. All subsequent profiles are installed with the help of a thread stretched between them to the touch - this is the only way to maintain the even plane of the frame.

That's not all, now let's talk about the most difficult (you are unlikely to find this information in the siding installation instructions). You need it right - it is mounted from two ud profiles twisted together. They are bursting with horizontal jumpers between the corner cd-profiles and are securely fixed with metal screws. The installation step of these jumpers should not be less than 60 cm. Thus, having formed each of the outer corners of the building, we get a reliable base on which you can install vinyl siding with your own hands.

DIY siding installation instructions

There is no need to relax further, because the frame of window and door slopes is yet to be mounted. Here the principle is the same as with external corners, only as one of the corner profiles, a ud-profile is used, fixed along the perimeter of window or door frames. The upper part of the slope is done last and is tied to the side slopes with its sides.

Just in case, I will also mention the internal corners, which sometimes come across on the facades of modern buildings. In these places, the frame is assembled as follows - first, an ud profile is attached to one of the walls, which is connected by means of horizontal jumpers to an adjacent vertical profile. Then another ud-profile is vertically mounted on the resulting horizontal lintels and connected in the same way by horizontal lintels to the nearest vertical supporting profile of another plane.

Now we can say that the frame for vinyl siding panels is ready, and you can start covering it.

Do-it-yourself crate for siding photo

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: installation of panels

The most difficult part is over, and you can relax a little, but not much, since there are plenty of nuances in the process of installing the panels. But first, the walls of the house need to be insulated. You can, of course, do without this stage of work, but it is better not to ignore the insulation, since a warm house is not only your comfort, but also lower bills for consumed natural resources.

As a rule, a basalt slab is laid between the existing walls of the house and the metal frame - this vapor-permeable material will not cause any harm to the walls. To protect it from moisture vapor and condensate, the insulation must be placed between the hydro and vapor barriers.

Wall insulation before sheathing with siding photo

Installation of siding must begin with the installation of corner elements - they are almost the same as for plastic panels, only a little larger. They are rigidly fastened, without taking into account thermal deformation. In places where different planes meet, they are simply inserted into each other or joined at an angle of 45˚ - such places are mainly found in the slope area.

Do-it-yourself siding

So-called starting elements are attached directly to the windows and at the bottom of each of the walls - they are necessary in order to ensure a snug fit of the siding to. I completely forgot, if the length of the walls exceeds the maximum size of the siding strip, then it is also necessary to install a connecting element. With it, I think, you will cope without further explanation - the main thing is to understand the importance of installing it in a vertical level.

How do-it-yourself house siding is made photo

When all the corner elements are installed, you can begin to sheath the house with siding with your own hands. Everything is simple here - a panel cut to length (or solid) is inserted into the corner elements and attached to each of the profiles with special metal screws. These self-tapping screws differ from ordinary texes in the size of the cap - it is larger and has a corrugation at the bottom for a secure clamp.

Attaching siding to the frame photo

By the way, about clamping self-tapping screws - here you need to understand what the coefficient of thermal expansion is and how it affects such material. When heated from the sun's rays, the siding panel increases in size, which, with major fastening, leads to swelling of the material. That is why, after you have tightened the screw, you need to loosen it by half a turn, thus ensuring free movement horizontally. For exactly the same reason, the siding strip should not completely enter the connecting elements - there should be at least a centimeter of empty space between its ends and the strip on each side. Only in this case, do-it-yourself siding will be done correctly.

As you can see, sheathing a house with siding with your own hands is not so simple as it seems at first glance - there are many subtleties, but you should not be afraid of them. The main thing to remember is that you are doing this work for yourself, and if something goes wrong, then you will not have to blame anyone. Therefore, try, and everything will work out in the best way for you.

Siding is a dry type of exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a wide choice of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

• grinder or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
• screwdriver and screwdriver
• hammer,
• tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
• a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

• Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
• Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, internal corners are also used at the points of its connection with the wall. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
• To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
• The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
• At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
• The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
• A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
• If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are preserved.
• The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
• For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up with cement mortar or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60 * 40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.

When installing H-profiles vertically in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

If you want to finish the facade using a dry method, siding will suit the house, which suits most modern buildings, especially if they are built from sandwich panels or foam concrete.

Finishing the house with this material can be done independently, without spending a lot of effort. Siding is distinguished not only by the beautiful appearance of the building that it can create, but also by the favorable price.

Considering the complex characteristics of the proposed materials for wall decoration, pay attention to the following factors:

• operating conditions of the finish;
• the total cost of finishing;
• environmental friendliness.

Information about the characteristics of siding that may be useful in making a decision on cladding a house with siding:

• durability;
• subject to temperature deformations;
• resists direct sunlight, adverse external influences;
• impact resistant;
• it is easy to install;
• the finished facade is easy to repair;
• fire safety.

If you decide to use siding for your home, the first thing you need to do is visit a hardware store in person. When buying online, it will be difficult for you to find out the following features:

• uniformity of color from the outside and inside, indicating the quality of the material;
• quality of mounting holes;
• the uniformity of the thickness of the panels along the perimeter and among themselves.

Types of finishing material

Siding has excellent technical characteristics. Due to the wide range of colors and textures, there is a steadily growing demand for a house sheathed with siding on the materials market.

It is available in these variations:

• vinyl;
• aluminum;
• basement;
• steel;
• copper;
• cement;
• wood.

Any of the above types is suitable for finishing exterior walls. Focus on your budget, the desired appearance of the facade. The cheapest will be vinyl (the most popular), the most expensive - including wood or copper. The first two types are usually used to decorate a wooden house with your own hands without much time.

Material quantity

To calculate the amount of the main material (panels, hydro-, vapor barrier), you need to measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade for finishing, minus the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows, plus five percent from above. The number of profiles is equal to the length of the corner lines of the house, including the contact angles of doors and windows, the perimeter and doubled.

For a rack profile, it is enough to find out the length of the walls from the ground to the beginning of the roof, multiply by the length of the perimeter, divided by 60 cm. between fasteners (70 cm). For you need self-tapping screws:

1. LN 9 - for a galvanized profile, the ability to find out only an approximate number.
2. TN 25–30 - for wood, for counting, we multiply two by the U-shaped mount, adding five percent.

What is useful for facing

Usually, do-it-yourself siding at home requires the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• scissors;
• grinder / saw with small teeth;
• hammer;
• level;
• square;
• stairs leading up to the roof.

Before finishing the house with siding, study its complete set, which consists of the following parts:

• starting, corner, finishing, connecting strips;
• elements for slopes;
• drainage systems;
• spotlights.

Getting to the preparatory work

Without preparing the facade for work, you should not start cladding. Remove interfering elements: window shutters, external ebbs, cornices, window sills, drainpipes. Seal old cracks with mortar or foam. Mold, rot, old paint and peeling plaster should be removed from a long-built house.

After, treat the walls: fire retardant, antiseptic walls of a wooden house, brick or concrete with a special primer. Next, you need to carefully examine the facade in order to understand whether the facade cladding with siding needs an additional frame. It may not be installed only for smooth log walls, in other cases, especially when insulating, its installation is mandatory.

Frame installation

As we just said, in most cases a frame is needed: from slats for a log house and from a galvanized profile in the case of concrete or brick walls of a house.

Attention: the slats that are needed to sheathe a wooden house with siding are processed after drying with the same materials as a wooden house.

So, how to sheathe the facade of a private building with siding:

• mark lines for a closed contour using a tape measure and a level;
• put a mark on the lower point of touch of the wall to the plinth, making a second contour, where in the future we will set the initial bar;

Be careful: in case of deviation of the second contour from the level indicators, the finishing panels of the walls may skew.

• start the installation with vertical rails, which are mounted using U-shaped fasteners;

Tip: for a tight installation, you can put pieces of wood or foam under them.

• on corner lines, places of future lighting, as well as near door and window openings, additional guides are made;

Attention: if vertical rails are connected to each other, air circulation will not work, which will expose the facade to destructive biological influences such as fungus or mold.

• do-it-yourself layers of hydro- and vapor barrier are laid;
• layers of rolled mineral wool or foam boards are laid between the crate, if necessary, fixed with clamps.

plinth trim

If you want to use this material for, use the following instructions:

• install horizontal profiles on the frame;
• attach the initial strips from above;
• measure the supporting parts with a level and a corner;
• fasten the profiles and knees together;

Attention: for fastening strength, use dowel-nails up to 8 cm long for this process.

• if you want to end up with a stable base, mount the profiles horizontally.

If this is the first time you are faced with the need to perform sheathing with such material, and you are not sure how to properly sheathe a house with siding, study the following material:

• when fixing the panels, keep a gap between the siding and the self-tapping screw of 1 mm

Attention: if you forget about the thermal gap when finishing the house, the finish will soon become covered with cracks due to expansion when heated.

• leave 0.3-0.5 cm of space between the edge and end connection;

Tip: if siding is done in winter, the gap distance is increased due to temporary compression of the material.

• fasten all the screws in the center of the hole, except for one at the top of the gable, which is driven into the center of the panel itself and the screws of the top panels.

Without following these simple rules, the technology for cladding a house with siding will be incorrect, and the frame will not hold material well.

Let's start facing the facade with panels

Step by step, you have come to the main point that siding has - fixing the main panels, for this:

• attach the initial profile using the level;
• put panels on it, each of which is attached to the crate;

Attention: the mount is done with the help of self-tapping screws of the color of the siding, when choosing which attention is paid to the hat - for a strong fastening it must be large and with corrugations.

• fasten the panels from the bottom until you reach the gable;
• assemble the cornice, for which serifs are applied to the pediment and the installation of the launch panel;
• attach a crate to the plank;
• mount the cornice with self-tapping screws.

What to do with openings

For finishing the slopes of doors and windows with panels, if present, there are special accessories that include the following elements:

• slope profiles;
• window avilons;
• platbands and others.

For facing slopes, after repairing windows and doors, you can use two mounting options. Ways to sheathe slopes with siding:

• overlay - it is more reliable for protection against moisture;
• butt - has a more beautiful appearance.

Against the backdrop of the complexity and high cost of implementing the previous options, the technology of siding a wooden house can exclude them. To do this, the frame along the perimeter of the opening and arrange it with a J-profile. In this case, the siding bypasses the slopes, which are faced separately using a different technology.

Conclusion

Vinyl siding will almost always fit your home perfectly. Despite this, some owners use a log blockhouse to preserve the look of expensive natural wood with their own siding. It is very convenient to finish a house in which the windows are at the level of the walls, without external slopes.

Metal siding is used for commercial properties, where its ability to provide the benefits of sheathed construction, which it cannot do for a private house, except that it complicates the work. If you do not have a strong desire to understand how to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, hire professionals.

The fact is that if you do the finishing yourself, in case of failure, there will be no one to blame. Also, because of inexperience, you run the risk of wasting twice as much materials, especially if you are not in the habit of carefully studying the nuances of the sheathing process before starting it.

Finishing Siding is a finishing that relates to outdoor work and is intended for any residential buildings and outbuildings. This cladding is also applicable to old houses, because the light weight of the structure is not capable of damaging the foundation.

The popularity of siding has been growing over the years, due to:

• relatively low cost;
• long service life;
• high technical qualities;
• simple care;
• good protective properties;
• large selection of colors and textures.

The big advantage is that any building can be given a modern look with your own hands, saving money on the service of specialists.

Which siding to choose?

Depending on the architectural features of the building and its operating conditions, various types of siding can be used. Materials differ in strength indicators, load on the frame, care features.

For decoration of buildings can be used aluminum, galvanized And steel sidings. The aluminum look is considered more decorative, which imitates the structure of wood and lends itself well to coloring. This material is not afraid of temperature changes and does not rot. The disadvantages include the ability to deform and the likelihood of corrosion.

• cement siding produced from high-quality cement with cellulose impurities. This type of finish effectively imitates a noble finishing stone. This material is not affected by atmospheric phenomena, does not rot and does not burn. But the siding is heavy, which requires the organization of a reinforced frame and complicates its installation.
• basement siding is a cement or PVC panel that exactly repeats the structure of stone or brick. This material is produced in thicknesses greater than 3 mm, as it is installed close to the ground and can be exposed to moisture and various damages.

Materials and tools

To perform siding installation work, you will need tool:

1. Scissors cutting metal, grinder, saw.
2. Hammer, square
3. Screwdriver set, electric screwdriver.
4. Construction or laser tape measure.
5. Folding ladder.

Today, siding is offered along with accessories for finishing houses of various configurations. When buying, it is enough for the buyer to indicate the dimensions of the walls, the presence of windows, the type of roof and the consultant will calculate the required amount of material and cladding elements.

The work uses the following accessories:

• The ends of the material are closed with an outer corner.
• Internal corners connect the material to each other and to the surface of the wall.
• The eaves are sheathed with a wind dock and spotlights.
• The starting bar is set around the perimeter of the house, except for doors and gables.
• J-profile connect extensions, roofs of different levels and hide height differences;
• Windows are framed with a window bar and ebbs.
• Ebb and drain strips are installed around the perimeter of the basement.
• An H-profile connects the siding panels to each other, if necessary, add length.
• Siding.
• Galvanized self-tapping screws are used to mount the material, it is better to use self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, which provides the necessary clearance of 1 mm.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: step by step instructions

Carrying out preparatory work

During the preparatory work, dismantling of protruding wall elements, including doors, grilles, platbands. Gaps should be sealed around door and window openings. The surface of the walls must be cleaned, removing dust, dirt, mold, and chipped old finishes.

Lathing installation

The panels must be attached to the crate. For vinyl profiles are used wooden slats, which must first be treated with antiseptic agents and dried. For metal siding, it is better to install a frame made of galvanized profile.

Smooth lines are marked on the walls with a laser tape measure or level until a closed contour is formed. The next contour is drawn below, at the level of the basement, by measuring the distance at the corners of the walls and finding the minimum figure to the basement. This place will be installed starting bar. This process is very important, since it depends on whether the panels of the entire cladding will not warp.

Vertical bars are attached to the corners of the wall. guides, they are installed using U-shaped elements. These elements must fit snugly against the wall, this can be achieved with wood or foam gaskets. The guides should be located in increments of 30-40 cm. Near the window and door openings, the number of guides is added due to the additional mechanical load. Vertical guides do not need to be connected to each other, this contributes to good ventilation.

Warming and waterproofing

Wooden and aerated concrete buildings must have waterproofing. The heater is installed at the request of the owner. It is better to give preference to a membrane with moisture and windproof properties. If it is decided not to use insulation, then the membrane is attached to the surface of the walls, keeping the space for ventilation. When using a heater, the waterproofing material is installed with the top layer, then the crate is installed, providing a ventilating space.

Installation of guide elements

Work begins with the organization of drainage to the basement. The upper part of the element is located along the intended line. Drainage is a rigid element that is easy to install in a level position. Corner profiles are fixed firmly with self-tapping screws in the holes located at the top of the element. The following self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle part of the hole.

Door and window openings are framed with J-profiles and window slats. H-profiles for vertical installation are installed using a level. This provides a gap of 5 mm at the ends to avoid deformation during expansion. Installed in the roof area finishing bar.

Panel mounting

Panels begin to be installed when all additional elements are mounted. The bottom row is fixed to the starting bar with a lock at the bottom of the element. The panel is fastened with self-tapping screws in the upper part, they are screwed in every 40 cm. All other siding panels are installed in the same way, rising up to the roof with each row. Siding must be moveable so don't fasten it too hard. A finishing panel is installed at the very top of the structure.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: video

Siding is the best way to quickly update the building's skin and protect walls from the influence of atmospheric phenomena for many years. With proper installation and compliance with all requirements, the life of this finish is about 30 years.

The process of installing panels is not complicated and understandable even for non-professionals. It is enough to watch the installation video, study the instructions and recommendations, and you can safely get to work.