Have you ever encountered the fact that in discussions on the forums the topic of the “right” or “wrong” frame house pops up? Often people are poked with their noses at the fact that the frame is wrong, but it is hard to explain clearly why it is wrong and how it should be. In this article I will try to explain what is usually hidden behind the concept of a “correct” frame, which is the basis of a frame house, just like a human skeleton. In the future, I hope, we will consider other aspects.

Surely you know that the foundation is the foundation of the house. This is true, but the frame house has another basis - no less important than the foundation. This is the frame itself.

Which frame house is “correct”?

I'll start with the main one. Why is it so difficult to talk about the right frame house? because the only correct correct frame house does not exist. What a surprise, isn't it? 🙂

You will ask why? Yes, very simple. A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions. And there are many decisions that can be called correct. There are even more decisions - “semi-correct”, but there are a legion of “wrong” ones.

Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking of “correctness”. This is a frame of the American and, more rarely, Scandinavian type.

Why are they considered examples of “correctness”? Everything is very simple. The vast majority of private homes for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built using frame technology. This technology has been used there for more than a dozen and perhaps even a hundred years. During this time, all possible cones were filled, all possible options were sorted out and a certain universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a probability of 99.9% you will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics at once:

1. Structural reliability of solutions.
2. Optimal labor costs during construction.
3. Optimal cost of materials.
4. Good thermal performance.

Why step on your own rake if you can use the experience of people who have already stepped on this rake? Why reinvent the wheel if it has already been invented?

Remember. Whenever we are talking about the “correct” frame or about the “correct” components of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and components used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all the above criteria.

What frameworks can be called “semi-regular”? Basically, these are those that differ from the typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - reliable design and good solutions in terms of heat engineering.

Well, I would classify all the rest as “wrong”. Moreover, their “incorrectness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. Such a scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the best decisions. As a result, it becomes difficult where it can be done easier. More material is used where less is possible. A colder or more inconvenient design for subsequent work is made than it could be.

The main drawback of the “wrong” frames is that they do not give absolutely any gains compared to the “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs ... nothing at all.

Or these advantages are far-fetched and generally questionable. In extreme cases (and there are some), improper framing can be dangerous and result in a home needing a major overhaul in just a few years.

Now let's look at the issue in more detail.

Key Features of the American Frame

The American frame is practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble, it has a large margin of safety.

Americans are tight-fisted guys, and if they manage to save a couple of thousand dollars on a construction site, they will definitely do it. At the same time, they will not be able to stoop to outright hack-work, since there is strict control in the construction industry, insurance companies will refuse to pay out in case of problems, and the customers of would-be builders will quickly sue and rip off negligent contractors like sticky.

Therefore, the American frame can be called the standard in terms of the ratio: price, reliability, result.

American frame is simple and reliable

Let's take a closer look at the main points that distinguish the American wireframe scheme:

Typical nodes of a frame house

Beam in racks and harnesses is almost never used, unless it is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes the “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls. By this criterion alone, you can discard 80% of Russian companies and teams operating in the frame market.

Moments that distinguish the American frame:

1. Corners - There are several different ways to implement corners, but nowhere do you see a beam as a corner post.
2. Double or triple racks in the area of ​​window and door openings.
3. The amplifier above the openings is a board mounted on an edge. The so-called "header" (from the English header).
4. Double top strapping from the board, no timber.
5. The overlap of the lower and upper rows of strapping at key points - corners, different fragments of walls, junctions of internal partitions to external walls.

Ukosina I specifically did not note as a distinctive moment. Since in the American style, in the presence of sheathing with OSB3 boards (OSB) on the frame, there is no need for jibs. The plate can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Let's talk in more detail about the key features of the correct frame in the American version.

Correct corners of the frame house

In fact, on the Internet, even in the American segment, you can find about a dozen schemes. But most of them are outdated and rarely used, especially in cold regions. I will highlight three main angle patterns. Although realistically, only the first two are the main ones.

Knots of the corners of the frame house

1. Option 1 - the so-called "California" corner. The most common option. Why "California" - I have no idea :). From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the extreme rack of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which later serves as a support for the interior decoration or any inner layers of the wall.
2. Option 2 - closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The bottom line is an additional rack in order to make a shelf on the inner corner. Of the advantages: the quality of the insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such a corner can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with something from the outside (plates, membrane, etc.)
3. Option 3 - "Scandinavian" warm corner. A very rare variant, not used in America. I saw it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest version of the corner. And I'm thinking about starting to apply it to our facilities. But before using it, you need to think, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not work everywhere.

What is the peculiarity of all these three options and why is a beam a bad option for a corner?

Angle from a bar, the most losing option

If you notice - in all three options from the boards, the corner can be insulated. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of a beam in the corner, we immediately have 2 drawbacks: firstly, from the point of view of heat engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” from the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Of course, the last question can be solved. But remember what I said about “wrong” wireframes? Why make it difficult when you can make it easier? Why make a beam, creating a bridge of cold and thinking how to attach the finish to it later, if you can make a warm corner from the boards? Despite the fact that this will not affect the amount of material or the complexity of the work.

Openings and top trim are the most significant difference between the American frame scheme and the Scandinavian one, but more on that later. So, when they talk about the correct openings in the frame, they usually talk about the following scheme (window and door openings are made according to the same principle).

Correct openings in a frame house

The first thing (1) that people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings is the double and even triple posts on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary for some kind of strengthening of the opening to install a window or door. In fact this is not true. A window or door will be fine on single racks. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember, I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? Pay attention to figure 2. And you will understand that cohesive racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

In Figure 3 - one of the simplified varieties, when the bottom trim of the window crashes into a broken rack. But at the same time, both window trims still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, it is impossible to speak formally about the fact that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong”. They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. Rather, it is a mistake when the posts along the edges of the openings are cohesive, but do not bear the load from the elements based on them. In this case, they are simply meaningless.

In this case, the horizontal elements are hanging on the fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides.

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an "irregularity" of the opening. This is the “header” above the opening (header).

Window header

This is the really important element. As a rule, some kind of load will come from above to the window or doorway - the logs of the second floor, the rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of ​​the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. American style is headers. In fact, this is a board mounted on an edge above the opening. Here it is already important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with cohesive posts of openings is used), or be cut into the extreme posts, if they are single. Moreover, the cross section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, increased in height, etc. Again, it depends on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m wide, a header from a 45x195 board is enough.

Is the absence of a header a sign that the framework is “wrong”? Yes and no. If you act according to the American principle of “simple and reliable”, then the header must be present at every opening. Do this and be sure of the result.

But in fact, you need to dance from the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Therefore, the issue of the header should be treated as follows. If it exists, great. If it is not there, then the builders (contractor) must clearly explain why, in their opinion, it is not needed here, and it will depend, first of all, on the load falling on the opening zone from above.

Double top harness

Double plank top piping, also a distinctive feature of the American frame

Double top harness

The double strapping again gives reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the floor, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping.

1. Overlap in the corner - we tie together two perpendicular walls.
2. Overlap in the center - we tie together 2 sections of one wall.
3. Overlap on the partition - we tie together the partition with the outer wall.

Thus, the double strapping also performs the second task - ensuring the integrity of the entire wall structure.

In the domestic version, you can often find the upper trim of the timber. And this, again, is not the best solution. Firstly, the beam is thicker than the double strapping. Yes, it may be better for deflection, but it’s not a fact that it is necessary, but the cold bridge at the top of the wall will be more significant. Well, it’s more difficult to implement this overlap to ensure the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, we return again to the fact that why is it difficult to do, if you can make it easier and more reliable?

Proper jib in a frame house

Another cornerstone. Surely you have come across the phrase “the jibs are made incorrectly”. Let's talk about it. First, what is a slug? This is a diagonal element in the wall, which provides spatial shear rigidity in the lateral plane. Because thanks to the jib, a system of triangular structures appears, and the triangle is the most stable geometric figure.

So, when they talk about the correct jib, then usually we are talking about this option:

Correct jib

Why is such a jib called “correct” and what should I pay attention to?

1. Such a jib is installed with an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. Of course, the angle may be different, but it is this range that is best.
2. The jib cuts into the upper and lower trim, and does not just rest against the rack - this is quite an important point, so we tie the structure together.
3. The jib crashes into every post in its path.
4. For each node - adjoining to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points. Since one point will give a “hinge” with a certain degree of freedom.
5. The jib cuts into the rib - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with insulation.

And here is an example of the most “wrong” jib. But nevertheless, it occurs all the time.

It's just a board stuck into the first opening of the frame. What is so “wrong” about it, because formally it is also a triangle?

1. First - a very small angle of inclination.
2. Secondly, in such a plane, the jib board works the worst.
3. Thirdly, it is difficult to fix such a jib to the wall.
4. Fourthly, pay attention to the fact that extremely inconvenient cavities for insulation are formed at the points of junction with the frame. Even if the jib is carefully cut and there is no gap at the end, there is no escape from the sharp corner, and it is not an easy task to insulate such a corner with high quality, so most likely it will be done somehow.

Another example, also common. This is a jib cut into the posts, but not cut into the harness.

The jib is not embedded in the harness

This option is already much better than the previous one, but, nevertheless, such a jib will work worse than embedded in the strapping, and after all, the work is 5 minutes more. And if, moreover, it is fixed to each rack with only one nail, then the effect of it will also be minimized.

We won’t even consider options for all sorts of small inferior “braces and braces” that do not reach from the top trim to the bottom.

Formally, even the most crooked jib makes at least some contribution. But once again: why do it your way when a good solution already exists?

On this we will finish with the American frame and move on to the Scandinavian one.

Correct scandinavian frame

Unlike America, where the frames are practically standardized and there are very few differences, there are more variations in Scandinavia. Here you can find both the classic American frame and hybrid versions. The Scandinavian frame, in fact, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about the Scandinavian frame, we are talking about such a design.

Typical Scandinavian house set

scandinavian frame

Corners, jibs - everything is like the Americans. What to pay attention to?

1. Single strapping on the top of the wall.
2. Power crossbar embedded in racks throughout the wall.
3. Single racks on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both American headers and double strapping, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact that it has a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all cohesive boards (double strapping, opening racks). Indeed, between each cohesive boards, a gap can potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it's one thing when the cold bridge has the width of one board and another question - when there are already two or three of them.

Of course, you should not get hung up on cold bridges. You can’t get away from them anyway, and in fact, their importance is often exaggerated. But, nevertheless, they exist, and if it is possible to minimize them relatively painlessly, why not do it?

The Scandinavians in general, unlike the Americans, are very confused about energy saving. The colder, northern climate and expensive energy sources also have an effect. But in terms of climate, Scandinavia is much closer to us (I'm talking primarily about the Northwestern region) than most American states.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is its slightly greater complexity, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts under the crossbar. And the fact that, unlike the American one, it still requires some kind of mental effort. For example: on large openings, double posts to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers may be required. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the log or roof, the crossbar may not even be required.

In general, the Scandinavian frame has certain advantages, but requires a little more effort and intelligence than the American one. If the American frame can be assembled with completely disabled brains, then in the Scandinavian one it is better to turn them on, at least on the minimum mode.

"Semi-correct" frames

Let me remind you that by “semi-correct” I mean precisely those that have every right to exist, but differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions. Therefore, calling them “semi-correct” should be cautious.

I will give a few examples.

An example of how you can "override"

The first example is from our own practice. This house was built by us, but according to the project provided by the customer. We even wanted to redo the project completely, but we were limited by the deadlines, since we had to go to the site; in addition, the customer paid a tangible amount for the project and formally there are no structural violations, but he resigned himself to the voiced shortcomings of the current solution.

Why, then, did I classify this frame as “semi-correct”? Pay attention to the fact that here there are Scandinavian crossbars, and American headers, and double strapping not only along the top, but also along the bottom of the walls. In short, here is the American scheme, and the Scandinavian one, and another 30% of the stock in Russian is thrown on top, just in case. Well, the prefabricated rack of 6 (!!!) boards under the glued beam of the ridge speaks for itself. Indeed, in this place the only insulation is isoplats from the outside, and cross-insulation from the inside. And if there was a purely American scheme, then there would simply be no insulation in this section of the wall, a bare piece of wood from the outside to the inside.

I call this frame “semi-correct” because from the point of view of constructive reliability, there are no complaints about it. There is a multiple margin of safety "in case of an atomic war." But the abundance of cold bridges, and a huge overrun of material for the frame, and high labor costs, which also affects the price.

This house could be made with a smaller but sufficient margin of safety, but at the same time reduce the amount of lumber by 30 percent and significantly reduce the number of cold bridges, making the house warmer.

Another example is a “double-volume” framework promoted by a Moscow company.

The main difference is actually a double outer wall, with posts spaced apart from each other. So the frame fully satisfies the strength criteria and is very good from the point of view of heat engineering, due to the minimization of cold bridges, but loses in manufacturability. The task of eliminating cold bridges, which, first of all, is solved by such a frame, can be solved by simpler, more reliable and correct methods such as “cross-insulation”.

And, curiously, usually “semi-correct” frames somehow have Scandinavian-American solutions in them. And the differences are rather in an attempt to improve the good. But it often happens that it turns out that “the best is the enemy of the good”.

Such frameworks can safely be called “semi-correct” precisely because there are no gross violations here. There are differences from the typical American-Scandinavian decisions in attempts to improve something or come up with some kind of “trick”. To pay for them or not is the choice of the customer.

"Wrong" frame houses

Now let's talk about the "wrong" frames. The most typical, I would even say, collective, case is presented in the photo below.

The quintessence of "correct" frame housing construction

What can be immediately noted in this photo?

1. Total use of natural moisture material. Moreover, the material is massive, which dries out the most and changes its geometry in the process of shrinkage.
2. The beam in the corners and on the strapping and even on the racks are cold bridges and inconvenience in further work.
3. Lack of headers and reinforcements of openings.
4. Do not understand how the jib is made, poorly fulfilling its role and interfering with insulation.
5. Assembly on corners with black self-tapping screws, the purpose of which is to fasten the plasterboard during finishing (and not use in load-bearing structures).

The photo above shows almost the quintessence of what is commonly called the “wrong” frame or “RSK”. The abbreviation RSK appeared in 2008 at the FH, at the suggestion of one builder who presented a similar product to the world, called the Russian Power Frame. Over time, as people began to figure out what was what, this abbreviation began to be deciphered as Russian Strashen Karkashen. As an apotheosis of meaninglessness with a claim to a unique solution.

What is most curious, if desired, it can also be classified as “semi-correct”: after all, if the self-tapping screws do not rot (black phosphated self-tapping screws are by no means an example of corrosion resistance) and do not burst during the inevitable shrinkage of the timber, this frame is unlikely to fall apart. That is, such a design has the right to life.

What is the main disadvantage of the “wrong” frames? If people know what they're doing, they pretty quickly come to the Canadian-Scandinavian scheme. Fortunately, information is now in bulk. And if they don’t come, then this speaks of one thing: they, by and large, do not care about the result. The classic answer when trying to ask them why it is so is “we have always built it this way, no one complained”. That is, the entire construction is based solely on intuition and ingenuity. Without trying to ask - how is it customary to do this.

What prevented you from making a board instead of a beam? Make reinforcements of openings? Make normal cuts? Collect for nails? That is, do it right? After all, such a frame does not give exactly any advantages! One large set of not the best solutions with a claim to super strength, etc. Moreover, the labor input is the same as that of the “correct” one, the cost is the same, and the material consumption, perhaps even more.

Summarize

As a result: it is customary to call the American-Scandinavian frame scheme “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been repeatedly tested on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal ratio of “labor-intensive-reliability-quality”.

“Semi-correct” and “incorrect” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame can be quite reliable, but “non-optimal” from the side of the above.

As a rule, if potential contractors cannot justify the use of certain design solutions that differ from the “correct” American-Scandinavian ones, this indicates that they have no idea about these very “correct” decisions and build a house solely on a whim, replacing knowledge with intuition and ingenuity. And this is a very risky path that may come back to haunt the owner of the house in the future.

That's why. Do you want guaranteed correct, optimal solutions? Pay attention to the classic American or Scandinavian scheme of frame housing construction.

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, maybe you met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of "Finnish House", a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a quality and comfortable home for you and your children.

Part 10. Walls and partitions. Frame device. (section 7, item 2.)

7.2.1. The wall frame (Fig. 1) consists of vertical posts and horizontal elements (upper and lower trim, lintels over window and door openings). The posts within each floor are supported by the lower wall frame rails, which, through the floor frame elements, transfer the load to the upper wall frame rails of the underlying floor (a "platform" type frame with floor racks).

Rice. 1. Wall frame

Frame skins, if they are made of rigid plate or sheet materials or lumber, provide frame rigidity when absorbing wind loads and prevent buckling of the racks. Where rigid shells are not available, diagonal bracing or bracing shall be used in accordance with the requirements of 7.2.5. Vertical and horizontal wall framing elements divide the inner space of the wall into closed cells and perform the functions of fire diaphragms.
7.2.2. Wall frame elements must be made of softwood sawn timber of at least grade 2 according to [GOST 8486-86. Softwood lumber. Specifications.] The provisions in this Code of Practice apply to wall framing with solid rectangular studs. It is allowed to use racks of a different design (for example, racks of a lattice design).
7.2.3. Cross-section and pitch of the racks of the wall frame should be calculated depending on the position of the racks along the height of the house and on the load transferred to them. In this case, the dimensions of lumber according to [GOST 24454-80. Coniferous lumber. Dimensions.] and their strength characteristics according to [SNiP II-25-80. Wooden structures.] (for coniferous wood of the 2nd grade).
The cross-sectional dimensions of the racks, taken without verification calculation, must be at least, and the pitches of the racks should not be more than the corresponding dimensions indicated in Table 1.

Table 1. Dimensions of the section of the racks of the walls of the frame house

wall type	Minimum rack section, mm	The maximum distance between the axes of the racks, mm	Maximum free height of pillars in the absence of skins, m
Internal	Missing	38 x 38	400	2,5
		38 x 89*	400	3,6
	From an unused attic	38 x 64	600	3,0
		38 x 64*	400	2,5
		38 x 89	600	3,6
		38 x 89*	400	2,5
	From the attic with stairs plus one ceiling	38 x 89	400	3,6
	From the roof plus one overlap	38 x 89	400	3,6
	From the attic plus two floors	38 x 89	400	3,6
	From the roof	38 x 64	400	2,5
	From the attic with stairs	38 x 89	600	3,6
	From the attic plus one ceiling	38 x 89	600	3,6
	From the attic plus two ceilings	38 x 89	300	3,6
	From the roof plus two ceilings	64 x 89	400	3,6
		38 x 140	400	4,2
	From the attic plus three ceilings	38 x 140	300	4,2
	From the roof plus three ceilings	38 x 140	300	4,2
Outdoor	From the roof with an attic	38 x 64	400	2,4
		38 x 89	600	3,0
	From the roof with an attic plus one ceiling	38 x 89	400	3,0
		38 x 140	600	3,0
	From the roof with an attic plus two ceilings	38 x 89	300	3,0
		64 x 89	400	3,0
		38 x 140	400	3,6
	From the roof with an attic plus three ceilings	38 x 140	300	1,8

* Note. The data given in the table are set taking into account the location of all racks, except for those marked with an asterisk, with the long side of the section perpendicular to the direction of the frame straps. Racks marked with an asterisk are allowed to be placed with the long side along the direction of the frame straps.

7.2.4.Wall studs must be continuous and solid throughout the height of the floor(except for racks at openings).
7.2.5. In the cases specified in 7.2.1, stiffeners shall be provided.
In external walls, it is recommended to use boards with a section of at least 18 x 88 mm as stiffeners, nailed at an angle of 45 ° to the posts in the plane of the frame on each floor. These boards must cut into the posts in such a way that they do not interfere with the fastening of the skins to the posts. In internal walls, wooden blocks can be used as stiffeners to prevent the buckling of the posts, which are placed at a distance between the posts in the middle of their height and nailed to each post.
7.2.6. Top rails in load-bearing walls should consist in height, as a rule, of two boards, the lower ones - of one board. On a wall section that includes a lintel with a doorway, it is allowed to have an upper trim from one board, provided that the trim is nailed to the lintel. The upper framing from one board can also be used in cases where the floor beams and frame posts of the overlying floor or the roof rafters, through which the load is transferred to the framing, rest on it within no more than 50 mm from the edge of the posts on which the framing rests.
7.2.7. Strappings must be made of boards with a thickness of at least 38 mm. The width of the strapping should be taken not less than the height of the section of the racks. In internal walls, in which the posts are located directly above the floor beams, it is allowed to use a bottom trim with a thickness of 18 mm.
7.2.8. In external walls, the lower trim may protrude beyond the support (for example, above the basement wall), but not more than one third of its width.
7.2.9. The bottom board of the top trim is nailed to each upright. The joints of the individual elements of the bottom board should be located above the posts. The upper board of the upper trim is nailed to the lower board in such a way that the joints in it are offset relative to the joints in the lower trim by a distance equal to one step of the racks.
7.2.10. At the corners and intersections of walls and partitions, the bottom boards of the top rails should be joined end-to-end, and the top boards of the top rails should overlap these joints. In cases where it is impossible or impractical to fulfill this requirement, to connect the lower boards of the upper trims in corners and intersections, use connecting plates made of a strip of galvanized steel measuring 75x150 mm, 0.9 mm thick, nailed to each element with at least three nails 60 long mm. It is allowed to use other connection methods that provide no less strength.
Note: The design of the upper framing of the wall frame is associated with the accepted production technology, which provides for the assembly of walls with the upper framing from one board in a horizontal position on the floor, lifting and installation in the design position, then installing the upper board of the upper framing in such a way as to ensure the rigidity of the wall frame in longitudinal direction and in the corner joints of the walls. At the next stage, the ends of the floor beams are supported on the upper trim.
7.2.11. The frame in the corners of the outer walls is recommended to be arranged on two or three racks(see Fig. 2) When connected on three posts, an additional post, installed with the long side of the section parallel to the wall, is intended for fastening the inner wall cladding.

7.2.12. It is recommended to arrange the adjoining of partitions to load-bearing walls in accordance with the diagrams shown in Figure 2.

7.2.13. Racks on both sides of window and door openings, as a rule, should be double. In this case, the internal elements (adjacent to the opening) are installed between the lower trim and the jumper, and the outer elements - between the lower and upper trim.
It is allowed to use single posts on the sides of the opening in partitions, as well as in load-bearing walls with an opening width corresponding to the distance between the posts or less than this distance; at the same time, two openings should not be located in adjacent spaces between the uprights.
7.2.14. Jumpers should consist, as a rule, of two boards placed on edge and connected into one element with nails. The thickness of the jumper should be equal to the width of the uprights framing the opening. If necessary, to ensure the required thickness of the jumper, gaskets (wooden or hard insulation) can be inserted between its two boards. Fastening jumpers - with nails through the racks to the end.
7.2.15. The spans and height dimensions of the section of wooden lintels must be determined by calculation. In cases where the spans of floor beams do not exceed 4.9 m, and the spans of truss trusses do not exceed 9.8 m, it is allowed to take spans and maximum cross-sectional dimensions for lintels in load-bearing walls according to When used in load-bearing walls of racks with a cross section of less than 38x89 mm , you can take the maximum spans according to the tables mentioned, provided that the length of the lintels does not exceed 2.25 m, and the minimum height of their section is at least 50 mm higher than that indicated in these tables.
7.2.16. The arrangement of nail joints of the wall frame elements must comply with Table 2.

Table 2. Nail connections of frame elements

Fastening	Minimum nail length, mm	Minimum number of nails or maximum distance between nails
Rack to rails, each end, straight (through the bottom board of the top rail) or oblique (to the bottom rail)	60	4
	or 80	2
Racks to each other (double racks at openings, racks in corners and junctions of walls and partitions)	80	750 mm
Double top wall trim	80	600 mm
Bottom wall trim to beams or braces (exterior walls)	80	400 mm
Interior walls to framing or subfloor	80	600 mm
Jumper in the partition to the racks	80	2
Jumper in the bearing wall to the racks	80	Two at each end

7.2.17. Racks and upper strapping of the wall frame, if necessary, can be sawn, cut, drilled, but in such a way that the undamaged part of the section is at least:
- two thirds of the section thickness for a bearing rack or 40 mm for a non-bearing rack;
- 50 mm across the strapping width.
With a greater weakening of the cross section of the frame elements, their additional reinforcement is necessary.
7.2.18. In the frame of the walls, details must be provided for fastening the inner wall cladding and filing the ceiling. An example of the arrangement of such parts is shown in Figure 4.

Table B.12. Maximum spans of lintels made of coniferous wood of the 2nd grade. Frame without rigid cladding.

,
kPa

Jumper section size, mm	Max span, m
	Exterior walls					Internal walls
	1,0	1,5	2,0	2,5	3,0
Unused attic and attic floor	2 x (38 x 89)	-	-	-	-	-	1,27
	2 x (38 x 140)	-	-	-	-	-	1,99
	2 x (38 x 184)	-	-	-	-	-	2,51
	2 x (38 x 235)	-	-	-	-	-	3,07
	2 x (38 x 286)	-	-	-	-	-	3,57
Roof and attic floor	2 x (38 x 89)	1,27	1,11	1,01	0,93	0,87	0,93
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,93	1,66	1,48	1,35	1,25	1,35
	2 x (38 x 184)	2,35	2,02	1,80	1,64	1,52	1,64
	2 x (38 x 235)	2,88	2,47	2,20	2,01	1,84	2,01
	2 x (38 x 286)	3,34	2,87	2,56	2,33	2,09	2,33
	2 x (38 x 89)	1,05	0,96	0,89	0,84	0,79	0,74
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,49	1,37	1,27	1,19	1,13	1,02
	2 x (38 x 184)	1,82	1,67	1,55	1,44	1,33	1,20
	2 x (38 x 235)	2,22	2,04	1,89	1,73	1,59	1,45
	2 x (38 x 286)	2,58	2,36	2,15	1,96	1,81	1,66
	2 x (38 x 89)	0,94	0,88	0,83	0,79	0,76	0,64
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,34	1,26	1,19	1,13	1,06	0,88
	2 x (38 x 184)	1,63	1,53	1,44	1,33	1,25	1,05
	2 x (38 x 235)	1,99	1,87	1,72	1,60	1,50	1,27
	2 x (38 x 286)	2,31	2,12	1,96	1,82	1,71	1,45
	2 x (38 x 89)	0,88	0,83	0,80	0,77	0,74	0,59
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,25	1,19	1,14	1,08	1,02	0,81
	2 x (38 x 184)	1,52	1,44	1,35	1,27	1,21	0,97
	2 x (38 x 235)	1,86	1,73	1,62	1,53	1,45	1,17
	2 x (38 x 286)	2,11	1,96	1,84	1,74	1,66	1,30

Notes:
1. Span is calculated based on a maximum load area width of 4.9 m for a beam or rafter and 9.8 m for a truss.
2. If the floor beams cover the span for the entire width of the building without support, jumper spans should be reduced:



3 For the ends of lintels fully resting on the walls, a support surface of at least 38 mm is provided for lintels with a span of not more than 3 m and at least 76 mm for lintels with a span of more than 3 m.
4 Instead of two boards with a thickness of 38 mm, one beam with a thickness of 89 mm can be used.
5 The spans in this table are applicable only in cases where the evenly distributed temporary load on the floors does not exceed 2.4 kPa.

Table B.13. Maximum spans of lintels made of coniferous wood of the 2nd grade. Frame with rigid cladding.

,
kPa

Jumper support	Jumper section size, mm	Max span, m
		Exterior walls
		1,0	1,5	2,0	2,5	3,0
Roof and attic floor	2 x (38 x 89)	1,40	1,23	1,11	1,03	0,97
	2 x (38 x 140)	2,21	1,93	1,73	1,57	1,45
	2 x (38 x 184)	2,75	2,36	2,10	1,92	1,77
	2 x (38 x 235)	3,36	2,89	2,57	2,34	2,16
	2 x (38 x 286)	3,90	3,35	2,99	2,72	2,51
Roof, attic floor and one floor	2 x (38 x 89)	1,16	1,08	1,01	0,96	0,92
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,74	1,60	1,48	1,39	1,32
	2 x (38 x 184)	2,12	1,95	1,81	1,69	1,60
	2 x (38 x 235)	2,59	2,38	2,21	2,07	1,93
	2 x (38 x 286)	3,01	2,76	2,56	2,38	2,19
Roof, attic floor and two floors	2 x (38 x 89)	1,09	1,03	0,97	0,92	0,88
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,56	1,47	1,39	1,32	1,26
	2 x (38 x 184)	1,90	1,79	1,69	1,61	1,51
	2 x (38 x 235)	2,33	2,19	2,07	1,94	1,81
	2 x (38 x 286)	2,70	2,54	2,37	2,20	2,05
Roof, attic floor and three floors	2 x (38 x 89)	1,02	0,97	0,93	0,89	0,86
	2 x (38 x 140)	1,46	1,39	1,33	1,28	1,23
	2 x (38 x 184)	1,78	1,69	1,62	1,54	1,46
	2 x (38 x 235)	2,17	2,07	1,96	1,84	1,74
	2 x (38 x 286)	2,52	2,38	2,22	2,09	1,98

Notes:
1. Structural sheathing with a minimum thickness of 9.5 mm must be secured with at least two rows of fasteners to the outer surface of the lintel and one row of fasteners to the top of the timber studs.
2. Span calculated based on a maximum load area width of 4.9m for a beam or rafter and 9.8m for a truss. The spans can be increased by 5% if the width of the cargo area is more than 4.3 m and by 10% if the width of the cargo area is not more than 3.7 m.
3. If the floor beams cover the span for the entire width of the building without support, jumper spans should be reduced:
- by 15% in the column "Roof, attic floor and one floor",
- by 20% in the column "Roof, attic floor and two floors"
- by 25% in the column "Roof, attic floor and three floors".
4. For the ends of the lintels, fully supported by the walls, provide a supporting surface of at least 38 mm for lintels with a span of not more than 3 m and at least 76 mm for lintels with a span of more than 3 m.
5. Instead of two boards with a thickness of 38 mm, you can use one beam with a thickness of 89 mm.
6. The spans in this table are applicable only in cases where the evenly distributed temporary load on the floors does not exceed 2.4 kPa.

Table B.14. Maximum spans of bulkheads of composite section. The load is only from the roof and attic floor.

,
kPa

Type of wood	Jumper section size, mm	Max span, m
		1,0	1,5	2,0	2,5	3,0
Coniferous wood of the 2nd grade	3 x (38 x 184)	3,00	2,58	2,30	2,09	1,93
	4 x (38 x 184)	3,30	2,88	2,62	2,42	2,23
	5 x (38 x 184)	3,55	3,10	2,82	2,62	2,46
	3 x (38 x 235)	3,67	3,15	2,81	2,56	2,36
	4 x (38 x 235)	4,21	3,64	3,24	2,95	2,73
	5 x (38 x 235)	4,54	3,96	3,60	3,30	3,05
	3 x (38 x 286)	4,26	3,66	3,26	2,97	2,74
	4 x (38 x 286)	4,92	4,23	3,76	3,43	3,17
	5 x (38 x 286)	5,49	4,73	4,21	3,83	3,54

Notes:
1. Span calculated based on a maximum load area width of 4.9 m for a beam or rafter and 9.8 m for a truss.
spans can be extended:
- by 15% if the width of the cargo area is more than 3.7 m
- by 35% with a cargo area width of not more than 2.4 m.
2. For the ends of the lintels, fully supported by the walls, provide a bearing surface of at least 38 mm for lintels with a span of up to 3 m and at least 76 mm for lintels with a span of more than 3 m.

Previous material: Construction of frame houses. SP 31-105-2002. Walls and partitions. General requirements for the construction of walls and partitions. >>>

Construction of wooden frame houses:
-

With what step should vertical poles be placed when designing the frame of an outbuilding or house? What to be guided by in this case: the dimensions of the wooden sheets of plywood, OSB or the width of the insulation? How to take into account the deformation gap between the sheets of the outer skin?

Here are the first questions that arise for everyone who decides to design a frame house or other structure, which is based on a wooden frame. In textbooks and literature, they often give a distance of 600 mm in the centers or 575 between the racks, without specifically explaining what these recommendations are caused by. And the lack of specific explanations makes many people think and start looking for “their own way”.

When erecting a frame, the choice of the distance between the racks must be approached comprehensively, that is, take into account the format of plywood or OSB sheets for the outer skin of the frame, what will be used to insulate the walls, how and how the premises will be finished in a frame house. This approach will make it possible to optimally use materials, minimize waste and find new opportunities to save time, effort, materials, and money.

So first, when choosing a step, it is advised to think about how it is planned to look.

How to determine the distance between the racks?

For example, if it is made of materials such as drywall, kraft paper, ecowool, OSB, hydrowind protection, siding, then the step must be calculated for the dimensions of drywall or OSB, since it does not matter for ecowool insulation.

What is the best choice: OSB format or drywall? In this case, it is more reasonable to calculate the step of the frame for the size of the drywall sheets, which is 600 mm, and to cut the OSB outer skin slabs, taking into account the deformation gap.

Also, for wall insulation, Rockwool basalt insulation boards are used, width - 600 mm, deformation strip - 50 mm. For external wall cladding, OSB has dimensions of 2500x1250x12, and interior decoration is made with clapboard. Here, the format of OSB and stone wool slabs will have a decisive influence on the step of the frame of the house. Since basalt wool slabs with a deformation strip of 50 mm, the size between the uprights can vary from 595 to 560 mm. The length of the lining also does not affect the step in the frame. Of the determining factors, only the size of the OSB sheets remains.

Suppose there are no complex corners, bay windows and balconies in the building, which makes it possible to form an expansion joint between the OSB sheets directly on the wall, simply by mounting the circular saw blade to the thickness of the slab, and “drive” all the joints of the sheets before installing the roof and truss system. The size of OSB sheets is 2500x1250. Based on this, the step in the frame is 625 mm, and the distance between the uprights is 575 mm. This is enough to mount basalt wool slabs only due to the deformation strip provided on them, without additional trimming.

And if the frame of the hozblok or house is insulated with foam, then it is better to calculate the step according to its size. Otherwise, a lot of waste is generated. Calculation of the step of the wall frame for foam insulation has features. Within about six months, fresh foam sheets lose about 1% in size, and then this process stops. It turns out that a sheet of 100x200 cm will dry out to 99x198 cm in six months.

If cutting will be done with a saw with a fine tooth, then it is necessary to subtract another 3-4 mm (saw thickness). Sawing a sheet that has rested for half a year, you get two strips with a width of approximately 492-494 mm. Styrofoam can be fixed using two methods.

What distance, or step, is made between the racks of a frame house ? This question is asked by every third client who applied to PROEKTSTROY-P LLC. The answer to it can be obtained from experts. In particular, design engineers recommend installing racks at a distance of 550 to 625 mm.

Why is the distance between the racks of a frame house exactly like that?

The step of the racks, or the distance, as well as the section is calculated based on the position of the racks, corresponding to the height of the future building. As a result, design engineers calculate the load on the supporting structure. But that's not all.

During construction, the dimensions of lumber corresponding to GOST 24454 are always taken into account. The strength characteristics of lumber must fully comply with SNiP 25.

And this means that, without using a verification calculation, the distance between the posts depends on the type of wall, the perceived load, the maximum section in mm and the maximum height of the posts themselves, calculated without sheathing in m.

The wall studs must be jointed in the openings, but at the same time continuous, or solid in height.

Accordingly, all the construction of a frame house is carried out according to certain rules that must not be violated. Moreover, the racks belong to the supporting structure and if, for example, you do not follow a certain step, or the distance between the supporting structures, the structure may turn out to be of poor quality and in a few years you will have to again spend a large amount on a major overhaul.

Contact the LLC "PROEKTSTROY-P"

It is worth noting that PROEKTSTROY-P LLC is one of the first diversified organizations that have mastered modern technology for the construction of frame houses. If you contact a reliable company, you do not need to delve into construction technology.

You can be 100% sure that your frame house will be built in accordance with the requirements and recommendations of SNiP.

In the drawing presented on the official website of this company, you can see the distance between the racks of the frame house. And if you have placed an order for turnkey construction, all the drawings can be viewed only as a guide, in order to know how highly professional specialists of PROEKTSTROY-P LLC will build your house.

Jump to:

1. Calculator for calculating frame houses with an attic floor
2. Frame house construction technology
3. The cost of building frame houses with a turnkey price
4. Free Frame House Projects

The racks of a frame house are considered a supporting structure, the strength of which determines the quality and durability of the finished structure. Therefore, during the construction of the frame, a certain step of the racks is strictly maintained.

Rack spacing in accordance with construction technology

The LLC PROEKTSTROY-P company offers its customers only high-quality frame houses and strictly complies with the relevant standards when assembling the entire structure.

In particular, the pitch of the racks ranges from 550 to 625 mm. This can be seen on the placed drawing, where the location of all racks with a certain step is very clearly traced.

Many are wondering why such a difference? Everything is very simple. It is this step that allows you to distribute the load over all the load-bearing elements and guarantees the strength of the structure. A step of 550 - 625 is considered optimal and depends on the standard width of the heat-insulating layer.

In addition, with this step, all tile insulation is tightly installed, which in turn is a guarantee that it will be warm in the frame house even in the most severe frosts.

It is worth noting that this step of installing racks is very successful not only for thermal insulation, but also for laying any roofing materials. Accordingly, these parameters were not chosen at random.

Trust turnkey construction only to reliable companies

When working with reliable companies, you do not have to worry about anything. If you apply to PROEKTSTROY-P LLC, you can be sure that everything will be done to the highest standard of quality.

We employ experienced professionals who are ready to assemble and finish turnkey in the shortest possible time. The technology for building frame houses has been worked out to such an extent that after the completion of all work, customers always leave words of gratitude in the guest book.

You should not contact one-day firms or invite amateur specialists to assemble a frame house. Despite the ease of installation, as it seems to some citizens who are little familiar with construction technology, the slightest mistake even when installing racks can lead to serious consequences.

Would you like to have your own house, built without the slightest marriage? Contact the diversified company PROEKTSTROY-P LLC, where you will be offered a wide variety of standard projects or develop an original special project.

Jump to:

1. Calculator for calculating frame houses with an attic floor
2. Frame house construction technology
3. The cost of building frame houses with a turnkey price
4. Free Frame House Projects
5.