How to lay out a circle with a diameter of 1 meter with a brick. Well masonry: the nuances of execution. Brickwork methods

Round brick ovens proved to be a reliable source of heat and a beautiful piece of home interior. The design of such a hearth allows you to fold it without problems, observing the basic requirements and standards of furnace work.

The round shape of the furnace increases its heat transfer.

Brick ovens differ from other types of this kind of heat sources in a number of positive qualities:

• they are heated by any kind of solid fuel, except for peat;
• have a high heat transfer due to gas convection;
• provide an even distribution of thermal energy around them.

Let's look at these qualities in more detail. The cost of fuel plays an important role, so many owners buy briquetted fuel or pellets. They have good combustion and heat transfer characteristics, as well as ash content. But not every stove is ready for this kind of fuel. Round brick heat sources work well on both traditional wood and modern materials.

This effect is achieved thanks to the arrangement of the firebox and the air duct system. They are designed in such a way that hot air does not cool down for as long as possible and the heat given off by it enters the walls, and does not go into the chimney.

In addition, the brick itself has the ability to gain heat and gradually give it away. Thanks to this, brick stoves continue to warm the room even after the fire in the furnace has gone out. This oven is ideal for heating the garage.

The round shape is ideal for a source of thermal energy. Even being located in the corner of the room or near the wall, such a stove has a maximum heat transfer surface.

Features of round brick kilns

Traditionally, round-shaped heat sources are placed in rooms where there is no steam heating system or heat pipes in the walls. They work exclusively for heating one specific room.

A metal case is put on top of the stove of the described type. He plays a dual role. A steel or cast-iron casing protects the brick walls from rapid cooling and accumulates hot air, which serves as an additional source of thermal energy. This significantly improves the efficiency of the design.

The radial section allows you to evenly distribute heat flows inside the heating device. This shape is ideal for moving hot air and efficiently distributing the combustion energy of the fuel.

Another feature is the aesthetic appeal of the design. The metal casing of the round brick oven is painted in different colors with special heat-resistant paints. Thanks to this, it is possible to fit it into any interior. Such a stove will look equally good in a room with a loft or country design, in addition, in Scandinavian or Mediterranean styles.

When ordering a casing, it is possible to provide a viewing window made of heat-resistant glass in it. Through it, it is so nice to admire the play of flames on autumn or winter evenings!

About materials

In order to build round brick kilns, clinker material is used.

Due to special firing at very high temperatures, it withstands long heating and does not burst. Clay during the firing process is sintered, which allows the material to retain heat longer and not cool down.

For masonry, it is recommended to use clay mortar. It is able to withstand heat up to 1100 ° C, does not melt and does not pass gases. At high temperatures, the clay sinters, creating additional adhesion between the masonry elements.

Better, but more expensive, is only a clay-chamotte mixture, in which specially prepared sand is used. It withstands heat up to 1300 ° C, so it is used for laying fireboxes.

Cement is used in the construction of the base of the stove, as well as in places where there are no high temperatures.

How does a round stove in a metal casing

The metal casing is assembled from specially made rings.

It is better to entrust the construction of this type of heat source to specialists. However, if a home craftsman wants to try himself in a new role as a stove-maker, it will be useful to get acquainted with the general structure of the structure.

The base for the stove is laid out of three rows of bricks. It should be 10-15 cm larger than the metal casing. In work, in addition to the usual tools of the stove-maker (trowel, hammer and mortar bucket), an adze is also used. With its help, the brick is given the desired shape.

First, lay out the main circle, which is filled with processed blocks. The circumference of the first layer is formed from halves. Hewn brick fragments are laid inside it, tightly adjacent to each other.

On the second row are solid brick elements, the shape of which is adjusted to create an even circle. The central part is again filled with hewn parts. The laying of the basement is done so that there is practically no free space between the elements.

After that, a metal casing is placed on the foundation, inside which masonry is made of vertically standing monoliths. Thanks to this, the space will be filled as efficiently as possible, without voids.

Brick walls are assembled based on the openings in the metal for doors and other technological holes. Opposite the existing holes, voids are created.

The wall and piers with air ducts are laid out in accordance with the classical schemes. In the process of work, you should follow the instructions and a clear sequence for the construction of each new level.

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The outer shell consists of metal rings, each of which is put on over the lower one as the inner walls are laid out. The height of the stove is regulated by the size of the room, as well as the amount of heat that needs to be received from it. To do this, you need to make a preliminary calculation, examples of which can also be found in the special literature.

Using this information, the craftsman will be able to build a beautiful round brick oven in his house.

Circular brickwork, how to get an even and smooth circle, video.

An ordinary person who does not have certain professional skills as a builder can build simple brick structures.

But there are situations when options for curvilinear or circular masonry are needed, and here you need to know certain nuances of such work.

Information on how to lay out a circle of bricks may be required in a variety of situations.

For example, if you need:

1. Well;
2. figured arch;
3. Tower;
4. Round oven;
5. Design house shapes and so on.

Let's take a closer look at the methods of laying in a circle and specific examples of the construction of structures.

Brick has been used for building since ancient Rome. During this time, he changed, acquiring new forms, improved. Now classic brick is a wear-resistant and durable material for construction.

Also, brick is used for decorative improvement of buildings, cottages, interior decoration of buildings, for example, in the Gothic or loft style.

For the design of wall elements, circular brickwork is often used.

How to lay out a circle of bricks

Modern brick has the shape of a parallelepiped. Each of its faces has its own name:

• Bed(2.5*1.2cm). This is the main, largest face, parallel to the base of the laying;
• spoon(2.5*1.2cm). Less than the main side, is a long side face;
• Poke (1.2 * 0.65 cm). The shortest line.

Beginning of work

Brick laying in a circular has various options, while any face is used, depending on the type of masonry.

Although, the general principles of such masonry are identical:

• A template of the desired size is drawn. To do this, drive a peg in the center of the circle, tie a cord of the desired radius and draw a circle;
• The first row is laid according to the drawn template. Brick is calculated. If necessary, the bricks are sawn, split, hewn or trimmed;
• The second row must be oriented to the inner edges of the base. It should be laid in such a way that the seams of the first row overlap with bricks of the second row;
• The first two rows are erected using bonded masonry. Then, you can lay out one row of spoon masonry. Such an alternation will strengthen the building, create a wall capable of withstanding heavy loads.

During operation, it is required to constantly monitor the vertical and horizontal rows. This can be done using a plumb line or building level.

If the masonry radius is not very large, then a metal mast (controller) can be installed in the center. The mast is installed strictly according to the level.

A cord is tied to the mast, on which markings are applied. If you have the opportunity to use welding, then instead of a cord, a controller is put on the mast, to which an iron pin is welded.

As a controller, there can be a piece of a sewer pipe, any iron ring that is suitable in size.

A latch is installed under the controller, which regulates the height and prevents the lever from moving down.

Cut the welded pin along the inner or outer radius of the structure. Depending on which side you are orienting yourself in the masonry process.

Most often, on the outside of the masonry, so that this rod has a support under it. At the end of this radius, a limiter is welded.

If you use an iron rod to adjust the masonry, then the mast should be equal to the height of the building.

This will allow the radius adjuster to be raised so that it is level with the row being laid out and strictly perpendicular to the mast.

This rod or cord serves as a masonry radius controller and does not allow it to stray and go to the side. That is, the masonry will be even, perfectly round, with the same distance from the center to the wall.

This method is shown in more detail in the video at the end of the article.

It should be recalled that with circular masonry, the rows of bricks are slightly shifted. This is done so that the seams do not overlap.

masonry methods

Most often, circular masonry made of bricks is performed using the stick-spoon method, while the seams must be bandaged.

Under the dressing of the seams is meant the alternation of the spoon and tychkovy series.

As you understand, the gap between the bricks from the outside will be larger, and inside the bricks are laid almost back to back.

A wide outer gap is filled with a cement-sand mortar, crushed stone is added if necessary.

Arched masonry

Arches, despite the apparent airiness, are quite durable and resistant to various destructive factors.

Not without reason, among the ruins of ancient buildings, the arches have a more integral look.

Brickwork in a semicircle or arch type, lined up like a circular masonry.

Initially, a layout is made, for a street arch - from boards, a sheet of plywood is suitable for laying a semicircular brick partition in the house.

The location of the bricks is also checked with a cord fixed in the center of the semicircle.

Often, as the rows are built, it may be necessary to cut the material to fit the bricks to size.

The topmost, central brick is called the castle brick, since it, like a castle, fastens the arch into a single structure.

The castle brick should be strictly in the center of the arch, in a vertical position. Most often it has a sawn, wedge-like shape.

The lock brick is installed last. That is, at first the bricks are laid out on the sides, and the castle brick completes the construction.

The arch, which is laid out of ordinary, not sawn brick, has a wedge-shaped seam.

The appearance of the Dutch type stove can be attributed to the 15th century. In Russia, the history of the creation of a round stove begins from the time immemorial of Peter the Great, which already then became dominant for any home. At that time, the tsar ordered the construction of stone houses in St. Petersburg, and at the same time a brick oven with a chimney and a so-called cap appeared.

Such a “Dutch woman” is the foremother of a round stove in a case, and she got her name because she was later lined with tiles made by potters from the Netherlands. Later, already in the days of the USSR, a round metal stove could be seen not only in residential buildings, but also in urban institutions. It is quite simple in appearance and use, and most importantly, very practical and safe.

Round oven device

The basic principle of operation of such a heating furnace is quite simple and lies in the fact that by artificially lengthening the path of flue gases, they give off all their heat as they pass. It is quite difficult to break such a chimney, so the design of the furnace does not have specific subtleties. The first Dutch women were installed on the hearth in cramped Dutch houses for strong heating at low resource costs.

Furnaces were created for 5-storey houses in the form of box-shaped structures from a minimum of light material. Initially, such stoves were designed with a deaf firebox, but later a blower and a grate were added to the modification. Today, such ovens are designed for individual requirements using computer programs.

Today's modern technologies make it possible to give the heater an improved appearance and a variety of colors. However, those who love antiquity and traditions will like this stove. She will warm you, in the truest sense of the word, and lift your spirits.

Pros and cons of a round metal furnace

Advantages of a round furnace in a case

The round stove heats rooms up to 60 square meters in size with a width of 0.67 m and a height of 2.33 m. It, of course, cannot compete in performance with a coal-fired boiler. Although, if the house has electric heating, then in emergency situations, when there is no power supply, this stove is the best solution to problems.

The main advantages of such a heater are as follows:

• Safety in the presence of a metal case that protects against the penetration of carbon dioxide into the home;
• Rapid heating and slow cooling, which reduces excessive fuel consumption;
• The possibility of extending the structure by several floors;
• Longevity with proper care and proper use;
• Changes in the assembly, which practically do not affect the efficiency and strength;
• Compact size and small footprint for any heated room;
• Light weight design;
• The presence of a streamlined shape and the absence of injury to the user;
• The presence of a furnace door with a refractory stained-glass window;
• Low temperature drop and simple chimney design;
• Low material consumption with sufficient heating;
• No need for constant or preheating after downtime;
• Increased heat transfer as in large-sized furnaces;
• The cost is cheaper than a conventional brick oven;
• Convenience in decorating thanks to modern stable dyes (if desired, the color can be changed every year);
• Wide functionality due to the initial possibility of building from slabs and additional modification;
• Economy in the cost of materials.

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Types of brick

Brick is a regular-shaped block of artificial stone used for the construction of load-bearing walls and partitions, as well as for cladding in the construction of various residential, public and commercial buildings.

It is made in the form of a parallelepiped, the faces of which have their own names.

1. The largest edge in area, which, as a rule, is parallel to the base of the masonry, is called bed.
2. The long side face, second in area, is called spoon or spoon part.
3. The short side face, the smallest in area, is called poke or poke part of a brick.

Bricks are classified according to the following parameters:

• material of manufacture;
• size and shape;
• structure;
• scope.

Let's look at them all briefly. According to the material of manufacture, bricks can be of the following types.

1. ceramic bricks, also known as reds, are among the most common. They are made from high quality clay and with a low content of impurities. Ceramic brick blanks are formed, dried and then fired in a kiln at a temperature of +1000°C. The manufacturing process is quite long and laborious, therefore such building materials are relatively expensive. But at the same time, red brick is strong and durable.
2. Clinker bricks- like ceramic ones, they are made from good clay, but at the same time they are fired at a higher temperature of + 1200 ° C. As a rule, it has a darker shade and the best indicators of strength and frost resistance among analogues. Also, of all bricks, clinker bricks have the lowest water absorption rates - from 1 to 6% of the total mass.
3. silicate bricks- made from a mixture of sand and a small amount of lime. Unlike ceramic, they are not fired, but pass through an autoclave, where the temperature is about + 200 ° C and high pressure. Cheap and very popular material for the construction of outbuildings. But at the same time, it is less durable than ceramic bricks, and more prone to moisture absorption.
4. Hyper pressed brick- a building material made from a mixture of rocks and a small amount of Portland cement, which are shaped and pressed under very high pressure.
5. adobe brick- as a rule, home-made building material, which is clay blocks, where straw or its analogue is used as a filler.

The size of the bricks is determined by state standards. In accordance with them, this building material has basic dimensions called the “normal format”, from which all other options are repelled.

Table. The main dimensions of the bricks.

Important! It is worth noting that in the construction of brickwork, incomplete parts of bricks are very often used. This is half, one quarter and three quarters. To create them, a pick, a circular saw, a grinder or a special machine are used.

As for the shape of the brick, in addition to the standard rectangular, there are many more options that are used for decorative purposes or creating structures of complex shapes. These blocks, called shaped, you can see in the image below.

According to their structure, bricks are divided into solid and hollow. In the first version, the blocks do not have any specially made holes, pores and voids are obtained due to the peculiarities of the manufacturing technology. Solid bricks are used for the construction of load-bearing walls and other structures that are under significant load - they are stronger, but at the same time worse in their thermal insulation qualities.

Hollow bricks have in their structure rectangular or round holes in the bed. Masonry made of such material, due to such voids filled with air, has better thermal insulation properties, but at the same time it is not so strong.

According to its scope, the material is divided into the following categories.

1. Building, also known as an ordinary brick - is used to build walls and partitions, which are subsequently finished with other materials. It often has an imperfect shape and appearance, but it is cheaper.
2. Facing, or face brick - can also be used for the construction of load-bearing walls, partitions, plinths and other structures, but at the same time it has a better appearance, because it can not be covered with other finishes and still get a beautiful and eye-pleasing building.
3. Refractory- used in the arrangement of furnaces, chimneys and other structures that may come into contact with sources of fire or high temperature.
4. Decorative brick is used exclusively for exterior or interior facades. Often has a special texture or painting.

Important! Separately, it is worth highlighting a used brick - this is the cheapest version of this building material, but its strength qualities and appearance are very far from ideal.

Types of brickwork, dressing and jointing

Without knowing the basic terms for masonry elements, it is not easy to understand the various instructions and correctly build brick walls. Therefore, we will get acquainted with the basic notation presented in the image below.

Versts- bricks laid on the front (facade) and inner (constituting the surface of residential premises) sides of the wall. Bricks lying between the inner and outer mile in a row are called backfill.

In accordance with the appearance of the facade, the rows in the masonry can be poke or spoon. In the first case, the bricks go to the front side of the wall with a poke. And, accordingly, if a spoon is visible on the facade, then such a row is called a spoon row.

The seam formed by mortar between rows of brickwork is called horizontal. And if the solution is between adjacent bricks in a row, then such a seam is called vertical. He can either be longitudinal, or transverse. In the first case, the vertical seam is located along the direction of the wall, in the second - across it. Their overlappings in rows of brickwork are called dressings.

The implementation of strong and durable buildings from this material is possible only if three basic rules are observed.

1. In masonry, it is necessary to evenly distribute compressive loads and minimize them in bending. To do this, the planes of all rows must be parallel to each other. As a result, uneven distribution of the load on one of the corners or one of the sides of the masonry is excluded.
2. Vertical seams located along and across relative to the direction of the brickwork should be located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the plane of the row and mutually perpendicular to each other.
3. To ensure uniform load distribution and avoid bending moments, each brick in the top row must be supported by at least two bricks in the bottom row.

The classification of brickwork by wall thickness can be found below.

Important! Separately, it should be said that there is another type of masonry - a quarter of a brick. In this case, the plane of the rows does not pass along the bed of blocks, but along the spoon. The thickness of such masonry is 65 mm, strength and thermal insulation are low, therefore the scheme is suitable only for thin partitions inside the house.

As mentioned above, to create a strong and reliable masonry, its vertical seams must be blocked. To solve this problem, various stacking schemes are used, called suture dressings. Each of them has a certain level of complexity, as well as its own advantages and disadvantages.

Most often, the following ligation systems are used during construction:

• single row, also known as chain;
• multi-row;
• and subspecies multi-row - three-row dressing system.

Principle single-row dressing of seams consists of alternating spoon and bonder rows of brickwork through one. In this case, you still need to follow some rules.

1. The initial and final rows of masonry must be bonded.
2. Longitudinal vertical seams overlap by ½ brick.
3. Transverse vertical seams overlap by ¼ brick.

The single-row joint binding system makes it possible to create a very strong and reliable masonry with uniform load distribution and minimization of bending moments. But at the same time, this method of laying bricks is very laborious. In addition, the bricklayer needs to produce a large number of undersized blocks, which increases material consumption due to unnecessary quarters or rejects resulting from an unsuccessful split.

From the point of view of saving material and time, it is preferable multi-row suture dressing system. In it, one tychkovy row alternates with 5-6 spoon rows. At the same time, there are specific features that must be observed.

1. As for single-row dressing, the initial and final rows of masonry should be bonded.
2. The next spoon row should overlap the vertical transverse seams of the previous row of the same type by ½ brick.
3. Vertical longitudinal seams in the spoon rows, as a rule, are not tied up.
4. The following bond rows in the masonry should overlap the vertical transverse seams of the previous spoon row by ¼ brick.

As mentioned above, such a system is more economical and simpler, but at the same time not so strong. As for the three-row dressing, this is a special case of multi-row dressing - when there are three spoon rows between two tychkovy rows.

In brickwork, not only wall thicknesses and block layouts differ, but also the types of mortar joints. Consider their main varieties.

1. Undercut- the boundaries of the seam coincide with the plane of the walls. The result is an even and smooth brickwork.
2. Pustoshovka- the boundaries of the seam do not reach the plane of the walls, small gaps remain between the bricks. As a rule, this type is used if the masonry is to be plastered. In the process, the finishing material will enter these slots and, thus, it will adhere well to the wall.
3. Convex and concave semicircular and double shear seams- in profile, the solution at the wall boundary has the form of a semicircle or triangle, which goes out or, conversely, goes beyond the plane of the masonry. Used for decorative purposes.

Tools and fixtures for bricklaying

Any construction work is impossible without the use of tools. Consider everything that you may need for proper bricklaying.

Trowel mason- a triangular-shaped metal spatula with a curved handle. The most important tool for laying bricks, it is necessary to apply mortar to a wall or a separate block, to mix it or cut off excess.

pickaxe hammer- used to split bricks into halves and quarters. The sharp side is used for small or normal-sized blocks, the blunt side is used for those that are larger. Instead of a pickaxe, you can also use a circular saw or grinder.

Trowel for stitching- with its help, jointing of joints in brickwork is carried out and giving them the necessary shape.

Nylon cord for arranging a mooring, with the help of which the correct position of a new row of bricks is controlled.

ordering- a metal corner fixed at the corners of the house with clamps-clamps. It contains holes or other fasteners that allow you to quickly move the mooring cord exactly to the height of one row of brickwork (taking into account the thickness of the seam). The use of ordering significantly speeds up and facilitates the work of a bricklayer.

Shovel for mixing cement mortar. Also, for its preparation and carrying to the point of laying bricks, you will need buckets, a trough and other containers. When working with a large amount of mortar, it makes sense to buy or rent a concrete mixer.

To control the position of the corners, you need carpenter's square. You will also need a tape measure to measure distances and lengths. And for marking - a pencil.

In the work of a bricklayer, it is of great importance to control how evenly one of the bricks or a whole row lies horizontally and vertically. For these purposes, use building and water levels.

For laying the upper rows of bricks, it is necessary to use scaffolding or scaffolding. It is better to transport building materials using a wheelbarrow.

Also during construction it is better to wear separate work clothes and use protective equipment - goggles and gloves.

Important! Separately, it should be said about the templates for the bricklayer. These are simple plastic devices that allow even an inexperienced person to apply perfectly even layers of mortar on the bed and vertical surfaces of bricks.

Mixing masonry mortar

To connect the bricks into a monolithic and strong wall, you will need a cement mortar. And in this section of the article you will learn how to cook it.

Step 1. Prepare all the necessary components - cement grade M400, good sand, a small amount of water and a plasticizer. The latter is necessary to create an elastic, high-quality mixture that will lay down on the brick without any problems and smooth out. As a plasticizer, use either specially formulated additives or a regular detergent.

Step 2 Turn on the concrete mixer, pour three-quarters of a bucket of water into it, then add 30-50 ml of detergent. Wait until the mixture of two liquids mixes well and foams.

Step 3 Throw in two buckets of sand. Also wait until all the components in the concrete mixer turn into a mixture.

Step 4 Once the sand and liquid are mixed, add two more buckets of sand. Repeat the same steps as in the previous operation.

Step 5 Add one bucket of M400 dry cement to the concrete mixer. Rotate the bulb slightly down, about 5-10°.

Step 6 Stir the ingredients evenly until the mixture is slightly damp. After that, gradually add water to the concrete mixer. Do not overdo it with water, otherwise you will have to add dry ingredients and plasticizer again, while it will be difficult to maintain the correct proportions.

Step 7 As soon as the mixture is completely mixed and begins to stick off the walls of the concrete mixer, pour it into a prepared trough or any other container of a suitable volume.

Step 8 Stir the resulting mixture with a shovel, check how flexible it is and whether its consistency is suitable for use in brickwork.

Step 9 Having prepared a mixture for bonding bricks, do not forget to clean the stopped concrete mixer from mortar residue.

How to lay a brick - step by step instructions

Now let's start describing how to properly lay a brick. For this, several step-by-step instructions have been created, each of which is placed in a separate subsection.

Important! Before starting construction, it is advisable to "practice" to perform brickwork and its individual elements, such as corners and pillars. This will give you basic bricklayer skills and save you some mistakes in the process of building your own house, barn, garage or any other building.

Dry laying on the plinth

Work begins with laying out the first row of dry bricks. It is necessary to calculate how many blocks will be needed in this case, and for a rough idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to make the correct masonry.

Step 1. Unpack the bricks and check the specimens from different pallets. Due to some features of the raw materials and the technological process, they may differ from each other in shade or size. Identify these features in advance. When laying walls and other structures, it is advisable to use bricks from one batch, one shade.

Step 2 Spread and fix the roofing material on the plinth or foundation - it is necessary for waterproofing. Without it, the brick will “draw in” water, which will not affect its durability in the best way. Then lay out the first row of blocks without mortar and careful fitting. Prepare a pin or a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm - it corresponds to the thickness of the mortar layer between the bricks.

Step 3 Now lay the bricks on the edge of the plinth, carefully aligning them and observing the desired gap using a pin of the appropriate diameter. In this way, a dry layout is made around the entire perimeter of the building being erected - pay special attention to the corners.

Step 4 Take length measurements from one corner to another, write down the results. Also take measurements diagonally - is everything correct, are the project numbers observed.

Step 5 In the corners, mark the plinth with a pencil in those places where the edges of the bricks will be located. If desired, and if there is time, the same marks can be placed along the entire length of the walls - this will require additional forces from you now, but at the same time it will greatly facilitate work in the future.

Laying out the first row

One of the most important steps in laying bricks is working with the first row. The quality of the subsequent masonry and the entire structure as a whole depends on how correctly it will be laid out. Keep this in mind and do this job with as much care as possible.

Step 1. According to the marks made during the dry laying stage, lay the first bricks on the corners of the basement. In this case, a reinforcing wire mesh was laid on top of the roofing material.

Step 2 Having planted the corner bricks of one of the walls on the mortar, carefully adjust them in height with the handle of a trowel or with very light and careful blows of the blunt part of a pickaxe. In this case, be sure to use both the water level and the building level - you need to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are located at the same height.

Step 3 By the same principle, lay out the bricks of the first row at all corners of the future building.

Step 4 Stretch a mooring thread between the corner bricks, along which all other blocks of the first row will be aligned horizontally and vertically. The cord is fixed either with the help of corners (as in the photo below), or in order. Please note that the mooring thread should not sag and that when laying it, it is undesirable to “push” it towards one of the faces of the brick.

Step 5 Proceed to laying out the other bricks of the first row. Lay the mortar on the plinth with a trowel, level it to a height of about 1.5 cm, lay the brick, align it horizontally and vertically, using a mooring thread. If this is your first time working as a bricklayer, check with the building level. In this case, it is allowed to adjust the brick with light taps with the trowel handle or the blunt end of a pickaxe. After that, the thickness of the horizontal seam should be approximately 8-10 mm, and the vertical - 8 mm. Remove excess solution with a trowel.

Step 6 According to the same principles as above, lay all the bricks of the first row.

Step 7 After laying the last brick in the first row, check again if the height of all blocks is the same, if there is somewhere bulging forward or backward relative to the base. If everything is in order, proceed to laying out the corners of the second row, moving the pier and further construction work.

Brick laying close and tight

After laying out the first row, it is necessary to start creating subsequent layers of brickwork. In this case, actions are performed according to a similar algorithm - corners are created, a thread is pulled, blocks are laid. In this subsection, we will focus on the last operation. There are two main techniques for laying bricks - sticking and pressing. Let's look at both in turn. Let's start with laying bricks using the butt method.

Step 1. Pull the mooring threads along the upper edges of the laid out row. It is advisable to do this both from the outside and from the inside. Then pour the cement mortar onto the bed of the previous row of bricks.

Step 2 Use a trowel to spread the mortar over the surface of the previous row of brickwork. Its thickness should be slightly larger than the thickness of the horizontal seam you are planning. Also make sure that the mortar completely fills the vertical longitudinal and transverse joints on the previous row of brickwork.

Step 3 Take a brick, tilt it down a little with a spoon or poke (depending on how you need to put it) and, immersing it in the mortar, move it so that a layer of the mixture floats on the inclined edge. As a result, you get both horizontal and vertical seams at the same time.

Step 4 Follow the same principle for laying the remaining bricks. If they deviate in height from the border set by the mooring thread, adjust them with light taps with a trowel or hammer. Cut off the excess mortar from the outside with a trowel, partially fill the vertical seams where the mixture is not enough.

Now let's look at laying bricks.

Step 1. As in the previous instructions, pull the mooring thread along the upper edges of the row, and lay out and level the mortar on the bed of the underlying layer of bricks.

Step 2 Then turn the trowel on its side and with a gentle movement over the mortar, rake up part of it to the vertical edge of the brick next to which you are going to lay the new one. As a result, you should get an even side seam.

Step 3 Holding the mortar on a vertical edge with a trowel, lay the brick in the right place and press it against the bed of the previous row and against the spoon (or poke, depending on the type of masonry) of the adjacent block. Carefully pull out the trowel.

Step 4 By the same principle, lay the next brick. Adjust them in height with light strokes with the trowel handle, if necessary.

Step 5 Excess mortar that has flowed out of the horizontal and vertical seams, cut off with one movement of the trowel. The mixture can be sent to a bucket to its main part or laid out on top (in the case when the joint of pokes or spoons of two bricks is not sufficiently filled with mortar).

Step 6 Repeating the previous steps, lay out all the other bricks in the row.

Video - Brickwork for beginner masons

Video - Mistakes of novice masons in brickwork

How to cut and split bricks

When working with brickwork, especially when using complex seam dressing patterns, there is a need for a large number of incomplete brick blocks - halves, quarters, etc. To obtain them, the material must either be split with a pickaxe or sawn with a grinder (or circular saw). In this section, you will learn how to do this. Let's start with cracking bricks.

Step 1. Examine the brick before splitting it. Pay special attention to the presence and depth of cracks. If they are and lie in the wrong place where you plan to split, it’s better to take another brick, since when working with such an instance there is a risk of getting a marriage.

Step 2 Take the brick correctly - the middle of the hand should be in the place where the split line is planned, but firmly hold both future halves with your fingers. Otherwise, one of the pieces of building material, when struck with a pick, may fly off and fall on your leg or split to a state of marriage.

Step 3 With the sharp edge of a pick, scratch an approximate split line on the brick.

Step 4 Apply a strong and fast blow along this line. The brick should then split into pieces of approximately the size you need. If you are working with large blocks, make several strokes or use the blunt part of the tool, not the pointed one.

Step 5 After the impact, divide the brick into parts of the size you need and set aside for storage. If necessary, they can be slightly beaten off along the cut with a pick to remove excess.

Now consider sawing a brick with a grinder. With this tool, you get excellent and even cuts of blocks, but the work must be done much more carefully and with the obligatory observance of safety precautions.

Step 1. Lay the brick on a level surface. It is desirable that it has slats or other devices for fixing building materials.

Step 2 Stand in such a way that neither your legs nor other parts of your body are on the cut line. You must be "away" from her. Thus, the risk of injury due to the sharp movement of the angle grinder "under itself" is minimized.

Important! Also keep in mind that no one should be behind you or in front of you - being close to strangers is a violation of safety regulations.

Step 3 Turn on the grinder and wait until its disk spins up. Then start the sawing process. In this case, the master stood up in such a way that the disk was spinning “away from itself” - the dust obtained during operation goes to the side, and not on it.

When you have finished sawing, gently lift the angle grinder up, turn it off and set it aside. Transfer the resulting halves (or 1/4 and 3/4 bricks) to a separate pallet or other storage location.

This method is used not only for facing the facade walls of various buildings, brick fences, gazebos and barbecues, decorative architectural elements are also erected in this way. What is "Bavarian bricklaying"? Read about it in this article.

On this basic acquaintance with the process of laying bricks can be considered complete. Now you know more about the craft of a bricklayer and get the opportunity not only to better control the work of third-party teams, but also to create some of the brick structures yourself.

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Brief terminology

Brick is one of the most popular building materials. Every person is familiar with his appearance from childhood. But the names of its faces should be considered:

• long side faces are called "spoons";
• short side faces - “pokes”;
• upper and lower faces - "beds";
• the intersection of the faces is called an "edge".

The brick has standard dimensions: single - 250 x 125 x 66 mm, and one and a half - 250 x 125 x 88 mm.

Verst - the outer rows of brickwork. It is divided into external (facade) and internal.

Zabutka (zabutovochny bricks) are products that fit between the front and inner versts.

Spoon row - these are bricks that are stacked with long side faces. And the bonder row is bricks laid with short side faces.

A wall is a part of a wall that appears between two openings (window, door, arched).

What is needed for bricklaying

Where to start laying bricks with your own hands? Naturally, with the preparation of the necessary working tool. Consider do-it-yourself bricklaying tools:

• Trowel (trowel) - a flat metal spatula with a triangular handle. Serves for applying and leveling the solution, as well as for removing excess mass.
• Hammer-pick - different from the classic hammer. On the one hand - a blunt rectangular striker, and on the other - a pointed part, resembling a chisel in appearance. The pointed side is designed for chipping small parts of the brick, and the blunt side is for leveling the surface. If available, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
• Building level - necessary to control horizontal and vertical masonry.
• Construction square - a kind of ruler. Used to control angles.

• Construction plumb line (with a rather heavy weight). Necessary for measuring the verticality of masonry and angles.
• Mooring cord (mooring cord) is a twisted cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. It is necessary to ensure the horizontal and straight laying of the rows.
• Jointing - used at the final stage of work. It is necessary for the formation of seams and their sealing.
• Ruler-ordering - used to adjust the thickness of the seams.
• The rule is a wooden or aluminum ruler. Used to control the plane of laying rows.
• Shovel - for kneading the solution and its periodic stirring.
• Concrete mixer or other container - for mixing masonry mortar.
• Buckets for carrying solution. Usually you need 2-3 pieces.
• Construction mixer - for the homogeneity of the solution. But it is possible without it.

Usually a set of these tools is enough for construction.

Solution preparation

Not only the safety of the building, but also its strength depends on the masonry mortar. Therefore, this process of preparing a mortar for laying bricks with your own hands must be given special attention.

Advice! For beginners, it is better to make a small amount of solution in order to exclude the possibility of premature solidification.

For a high-quality mortar, good cement grade M300-M500, dry sand (river or quarry), water and a plasticizer are used. If necessary, create a contrast with the brick, add dyes, soot or graphite.

The standard proportions of cement and sand are 1:3-1:5, depending on the brand of cement. It is worth considering that the more sand, the stronger the connection, but the lower the elasticity. The amount of water is often calculated by experience and is approximately 0.4-0.6 parts. For plasticity, lime, clay, liquid soap or, in extreme cases, washing powder are used in a proportion of not more than 0.1 parts.

First you need to sift the sand so that it does not contain impurities from stone, soil and debris. Next, we combine the dry ingredients in the required proportion and mix until the color of the mixture is uniform. And then we add water. This sequence is necessary for uniform kneading.

Important! The setting of the batch begins after about 45 minutes, and ends after 2 hours. The solution acquires full strength in almost a month - in 28 days.

The finished solution in consistency should resemble a thick porridge. You can check with the wizard. You need to spend them on the solution. If the trace of the trowel does not swim away, and the solution does not break, then the amount of water is normal. If the solution floats, there is a lot of water, and if it breaks, not enough.

The importance of proper brick laying with your own hands

The safety of the building depends primarily on the correct laying of bricks. This process consists of several steps. Before starting masonry, a beginner should practice in the performance of individual objects - corners and pillars. Below is a step-by-step instruction for laying bricks with your own hands. For convenience, it is painted in steps.

Dry brick laying

The essence of the step is to lay the brick "dry". This is necessary for computational work and checking the correct installation.

1. Preparing the necessary tools.
2. Unpacking and checking bricks. You need to pay attention to both the color of the material and its size. It is better to take a brick from one batch.
3. Make sure the foundation or plinth is protected from moisture. That is waterproofing. This is necessary so that the brick does not draw moisture.
4. Now you need to lay out the first row of bricks, without using mortar and scrupulous accuracy. It is necessary to use an object with a diameter of 8 mm (it can be a piece of reinforcement, for example). Just such a diameter is needed, since it is equal to the thickness of the mortar between the bricks.
5. Now you can start laying out. We carefully lay the brick around the perimeter of the basement, while carefully observing the gap and evenness of the masonry. Particular attention should be paid to the corners.
6. Now measurements are taken from corner to corner, and then diagonally. All data is recorded and verified with the data of the construction project.
7. In the corners, it is recommended to mark the plinth with a pencil where the edges of the bricks will be placed. If desired, and if there is time, such markings can be made around the entire perimeter of the building.

Advice! So that the brick also does not “pull” moisture from the solution, it is recommended to pre-soak it in water for a while.

First row

We can say that this stage is the most responsible. And all because the rest of the layout depends on the correctness and quality of the laid out first row.

Stages of the second step:

1. Corners are laid out according to the marks made earlier. Their laying begins with two bricks placed at an angle of 90 o (checked by a triangle).
2. Bricks planted on the mortar must be carefully adjusted in height with a trowel or the blunt side of a pickaxe. When doing this, it is important to use a level to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are placed at the same height.
3. In the same way, you need to lay out bricks in the remaining corners of the building.
4. Now you need to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks. It will align all other blocks of the first row (both vertically and horizontally). The thread can be fixed both in order and with the help of corners. It is important that the cord does not sag.
5. Then you can start laying out the remaining blocks of the crown. With the help of a trowel, a solution is applied, leveled to a height of about 1.5 cm, a brick is laid and must be leveled both horizontally and vertically (using a mooring thread). From above you need to check the building level. If necessary, it is permissible to correct the brick by lightly tapping the blunt end of the pickaxe hammer or the handle of the trowel. As a result, the horizontal thickness of the seam should be about 8-10 mm, and vertically - 8 mm. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
6. All other blocks of the first row are laid in the same way.
7. When the last brick of the crown is laid, a check is made. The height of all bricks should match, there should be no bulging in any direction relative to the foundation.
8. If everything is in order, then you can start laying out the corners of the second row, moving the mooring line and other work.

Brickwork methods

After laying out the crown, the principle of operation does not change. But the masonry technology is different and depends on the plasticity of the solution. Let's look at two main ways:

• "Vsyk". This method allows you to work faster. It is mainly used for laying piers. Mooring cords are pulled along the outer and inner sides of the row. The cement-sand mixture is poured out and smeared with a trowel over the previous row. The thickness of the solution should be slightly larger than planned. It is important that the solution fills the joints of the previous row. Now a block is taken, tilted a little with a poke, immersed in the mortar and moves to the already laid brick so that the mixture “gathers” onto the edge. Thus, it turns out to form both horizontal and vertical seams. The rest of the bricks are laid out in the same way. The blocks are adjusted by lightly tapping a trowel or pickaxe hammer, and the excess solution is removed. If necessary, vertical joints are filled where there is not enough mortar.
• "Squeeze." For its application, a hard solution is used. It is more laborious than other methods, but here the most durable seams are obtained. As in the previous method, the mooring cord is pulled, the solution is laid out and leveled. Next, you need to turn the trowel to its side and carefully draw it over the surface of the mortar, raking part of it towards the vertical side of the block to which the new one will be laid. As a result, an even side seam should form. Next, holding the mortar on the vertical side with a trowel, lay the new block in place and press it against the poke (spoon) of the adjacent block and the bed with the mortar. Then carefully pull out the trowel. The following blocks are laid using the same technology. If necessary, you need to trim the rows with light strokes with a trowel handle. Excess solution is cut off with a trowel.

Do-it-yourself brick pillars

Laying brick pillars with your own hands has certain features. For example, a brick must be impregnated with a special agent that will prevent the appearance of white spots (efflorescence). Required materials: brick, mortar, 4 metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm (15 cm longer than one side of the support), level, trowel, hammer and small stone (crushed stone is possible).

Do-it-yourself bricklaying steps:

1. On the foundation you need to lay out a layer of insulation. Next, lay out the first row in 1.5 or 2 bricks.
2. Then an offset is made by half the block. This is necessary to create a dressing.
3. Pieces of the rod are placed on the solution. This is necessary for the evenness of the seams. As soon as the block is leveled, the rods are pulled out.
4. Excess mortar is removed with a trowel. Every two or three rows, crushed stone is poured into the void of the column. Wire reinforcement is recommended.
5. Each row must be carefully laid. If necessary, trim with a hammer and check the level.

Facing brick laying

To give a harmonious and respectable look, use a facing brick. Laying facing bricks with your own hands is a little more difficult than laying out walls. The tool remains the same, except that a template is added for more accurate masonry. The solution consists of cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1, respectively. So that the color of the cement-sand mixture does not differ greatly from the color of the brick, coloring pigments are added. Before laying out, the material must be soaked in water.

Important! Facing brick laying is carried out at a temperature of +5 ° C.

The first step is to make a calculation without a solution. This is necessary in order to calculate how many bricks need to be cut, which blocks will be used for laying door and window openings, and also to exclude marriage.

When all the ceramic products are selected and trimmed, you can start laying out.

Important! Under no circumstances should a metal disc or hammer be used. This may damage the material.

It should be borne in mind that the size of the horizontal seam should be no more than 10 mm, and the vertical one - no more than 12 mm. The layout of the first row is done completely - from one side to the other. The solution must be applied with an indent from the edge of 1.5 cm. But the laying of the next rows is different. Here, even masonry is required, and therefore measurements are required.

First you need to form corners to a height of 5-6 rows. Then a thread should be pulled between the blocks so that the layout is even. And now you need to do the stitching. That is, using a special device, perform such actions so that the seam protrudes a few millimeters from the outer side of the facing masonry. Next, the rows are laid out. For accuracy, a template is used. It is important not to forget to wipe the lining with a damp cloth every 4 rows to remove dirt. It is best if there is contamination, it should be removed immediately.

Do-it-yourself bricklaying can seem difficult for an inexperienced person. But if you stick to technology, and even better invite an experienced craftsman to help, then everything will definitely work out.

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Briefly about the choice of material

At the moment, manufacturers offer 4 types of facing bricks (listed in ascending order of price):

• silicate - white and colored;
• ceramic;
• hyperpressed;
• clinker.

Note. The last 3 types of material are sold in several colors - traditional red, yellow, brown, black and various shades of gray. Strength and durability does not depend on color.

Decorative facade bricks are usually made hollow, the front side is smooth or embossed, imitating a chip or natural stone. Building material can also be bought in a full-bodied version, but it will cost more.

The standard size of a single brick is 25 x 12 x 6.5 cm, but there are other options on sale:

• one and a half 250 x 120 x 88 mm;
• "Euro" clinker 240 x 115 x 71 mm;
• bars 125 x 120 x 65 mm.

To choose the right stone for facade cladding, builders without work experience should pay attention to the following recommendations:

1. Study the characteristics of your favorite types of bricks and select the best building material for frost resistance.
2. See how much volume the voids occupy. Try to choose a more full-bodied stone with fewer internal cavities. The front wall - spoons - should not be too thin.
3. Inexpensive types of bricks are often made with a slight curvature - in the middle of the spoons are wider than at the edges. Putting such material is difficult for a beginner.
4. Calculate the amount of building material for laying the front wall around the house and add a margin of 15-20%.

How many bricks will go per cubic and square meter of masonry is shown in the table.

Tools and fixtures

Where to start laying facing bricks if you decide to do the work yourself? The first step is to prepare or rent construction equipment and tools:

• mortar mixer mechanical;
• grinder, circles on concrete and stone;
• drill;
• trough under the solution;
• trowel (trowel);
• plastic buckets;
• hammer;
• mooring cord or fishing line with pegs;
• water and building level, plumb line, tape measure, square;
• a square bar with a size of 8-10 mm (depending on the thickness of the seam);
• tight gloves.

Note. A square rod is used to form seams of the same size. Homeowners who have taken up brickwork for jointing for the first time are advised to purchase a special template shown in the photo.

A grinder will be needed for cutting bricks - in order to properly chop a stone with a pickaxe, you need to gain experience. To fix the cladding to the bearing wall of the building, prepare metal perforated strips and drive-in anchors (used for mounting GKL). Scaffolding will also be needed, since laying the top rows from a stepladder will greatly slow down the process.

Instructions for facing masonry

There are many varieties of facial masonry - bonder, gothic, "American" and so on. For beginners, it is recommended to start with the simplest option - using a spoon method with a bandage for 8-10 mm stitching. The wall thickness and the displacement of the stones of adjacent rows are half a brick.

Unlike rough masonry for finishing, increased requirements are imposed on the facing wall:

• each brick turns with a beautiful edge outward, a spoon with a defect turns inside the wall;
• high-quality masonry should not contain halves, only solid bricks;
• the front faces should not be stained with a solution or quickly cleaned;
• a bunch with a supporting structure is made with an interval of 4-5 rows;
• the opening between the old wall and the cladding is not filled with mortar - an air gap remains or insulation is laid.

Advice. Novice builders should not take on difficult things - laying bay windows, arched vaults over windows, or protruding corners of a building made of semicircular stones. If such a need arose, entrust the construction of these elements to an experienced master - a bricklayer.

Solution preparation

External brick cladding is laid out on a simple cement-sand mortar, prepared in proportions of 1: 4 using a concrete mixer. Be sure to add a plasticizer, in extreme cases - a detergent (liquid soap).

The order of mixing the solution:

1. Pour 0.5-0.7 buckets of water into the mortar mixer bowl and turn on the unit. The task is to wet the walls and avoid sticking of the mixture.
2. Add 50-70 grams of plasticizer (follow the instructions on the package) and turn on the mixer.
3. Pour 2 buckets of sifted sand into the "pear". When it is mixed with water, add 1 bucket of M400 cement.
4. Stir until the solution begins to fall off the walls of the mixer. Pour in 2 buckets of sand and add water little by little until you get a thick plastic mixture.

After unloading the solution into the container, clean the inside of the bowl with a trowel and immediately fill in a new portion of water with a plasticizer. If the masonry process slows down, the finished solution must be mixed in the trough so that it does not seize. For a lesson on preparing a high-quality masonry mixture, see the video from the master bricklayer:

Getting started - lay out the first row

The facing wall is built on the outer part of the foundation next to the main one. The surface of the plinth must be cleaned, a waterproofing layer of roofing felt must be laid and horizontalness must be checked using measuring devices. The different heights of the corners will have to be compensated with masonry mortar.

The first operation is the laying of bricks throughout the plinth to dry, observing the thickness of the vertical seams. The task is to lay out a row of solid stones, find out their number and install a mooring cord.

What to do when the last brick does not line up entirely:

1. If the residual opening is small (half a brick or less), scatter the gap width by the total number of seams in the row. Let's assume that initially you planned the thickness of the vertical jointing to be 8 mm, after recalculation it will be 8.5 mm.
2. Try butting the corner bricks differently by pushing forward the poke of the stone of the next wall.
3. If the width of the remaining gap is more than 10 cm, it will not work to distribute it along the seams - the difference between vertical and horizontal jointing will become noticeable. It is necessary to subtract the size of the opening from the length of the brick (25 cm), and divide the excess by 5. Then shorten the first five stones in the row by the resulting value.

Example. After laying out, there was a gap of 18 cm. To fit a solid brick, you need to cut the last five stones by (25 - 18) / 5 = 1.4 cm. Such a difference when looking at the wall will be invisible.

Upon completion of fitting the stones of the first row on all walls, mark the position of the corner bricks on the plinth with a marker and proceed to further operations:

Finished corners can be connected with the first row of facing masonry. How to properly prepare and set up the mooring cord, see the next video:

Masonry technology

When the preparatory operations are completed and the corners of the walls are laid out, proceed to the main process. How to lay a facing brick under the internal jointing:

Note. Unlike stove masonry, facing stone does not require soaking in a bucket of water. It is important to maintain the evenness of the rows and the cleanliness of the surface. The masonry process is described in detail in the video:

Adjacencies to door and window openings are made using neatly cut halves or solid bricks rotated at an angle of 90 ° (if the width of the air gap allows). From above, the opening is covered with a steel corner 10 x 10 cm, previously coated with a primer. The width of the supporting part is 12-15 cm on each side, the back shelf of the corner is placed flush with the masonry, as shown in the photo.

The thickness of the mortar layer on the corner depends on the width of the seam and the massiveness of the steel element. A number of stones on the wall and corner should be on the same level, without skew. The back face of the bricks laid on the metal jumper will have to be cut off. It is advisable to tie this row to an existing wall.

After the initial setting of the solution, make the internal jointing with a round bent rod, sweep the squeezed out excess with a brush. The diameter of the rod is selected simply: the width of the seam minus 1-1.5 mm.

Conclusion

In the process of laying facing bricks, try not to rush and not think about the setting mortar. Haste is the enemy of a novice bricklayer, and the result is a crooked, dirty wall. Aim every brick, check every row with a measuring tool. You can pre-practice on a less important object, for example, building brick pillars for a fence.

In this article, you can find out what are the methods of laying bricks outlined in the images, as well as the general technology of brickwork, which it is advisable for a beginner to follow.

Required Tools

So, you decided to lay a wall with your own hands and want to know what are the ways of laying bricks. But what tools do you need to do this? Let's figure it out.

• Trowel (trowel)- is the main tool of a bricklayer. Just with the help of it, the master applies and levels the solution, and the excess is also removed. The handle most often taps the brick, thereby adjusting it to the desired position.

• Kirochka- with its help, you can split and hew bricks to the required size. However, this classic tool in our time is giving way to a grinder together with a stone circle: with their help, the necessary piece can be cut much more accurately and faster.

• Stitching- this simple tool is used to cut the seams between rows of bricks. However, either a steel tube or a rounded trowel tip can be used instead.

• ordering- This device is used to control the height of the masonry. The optimal thickness of the seams is up to 12 mm. When the thickness of the seam jumps, then you can easily get a wall with a deviation from the horizontal. By using ordering, this problem can be solved.
• Cord-mooring- it can be stretched both between the corners of the wall, and between the orders. With it, you can control the horizontal, and also prevents the masonry from moving away from a straight horizontal plane. This cord must be pulled at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge, thereby it will not allow the shifted brick to deviate from a straight line.

• plumb line is an elementary tool that allows you to control the vertical of the wall.

General principles and terms

The basic brick laying technology is based on its physical properties. So, the material perfectly tolerates compressive overloads, but bending loads can damage it. Of course, other properties must be taken into account:

• The plane of the rows during the construction of the wall should be parallel. This results in an even distribution of the applied loads. However, one point needs to be clarified here: when erecting arches, an angle of planes up to 17 ° is allowed.

• In adjacent vertical rows, the laid bricks must overlap each other by no less than ¼ of the width and length. That is, one brick must be supported by at least 2 others.
• Vertical seams must be filled with mortar. Thanks to this, the masonry will not delaminate.
• In the process of erecting several horizontal rows, they must be tied up with each other without fail. The reason is simple - to prevent the masonry from exfoliating. Such dressing ensures high-quality connection and immobility of the layers.
• From the basement or foundation, the masonry must be separated by a layer of waterproofing. Roofing material is most often used, but there may be alternative options. You can study them in more detail in the article "".
• If you have a protruding base, then it is advisable to cover it with a tint made of galvanized steel. Thanks to this, you will protect the wall from water ingress.

• Start laying always from the corner. Always lay out the outside first.
• If you want to make your wall stronger, then lay steel reinforcement between the rows. With its help, if necessary, you can connect the inner and outer wall.

And now we propose to study the terminology that is used among masons.

• The bed is the mortar layer on which you will lay the next row.
• A spoon is the side face of a brick.
• A butt is a poke.

In accordance with this, the method of laying with a spoon means that it is laid horizontally with the coincidence of the axis of the wall with the axis of the greatest length of the brick. Poke laying method - rows that are used for dressing.

• The seam between the rows can be filled completely or not completely, i.e. wasted. This method is used when subsequent plastering is to be done, because. plaster penetrating into the cavity will better adhere to the wall.

Brick laying methods

What are the types of brickwork? Below we will understand in more detail.

Spoon masonry

This easy method takes place in half a brick from row to row with the offset of all vertical seams. It is displaced by half or a quarter of the length of the brick.

chain method

This masonry method is based on the fact that 2 horizontal layers must be connected to each other. The chain ligation method is one of the main ways to make the wall homogeneous and very durable. The brickwork technology is very simple - one horizontal row of spoons, followed by the subsequent laying of 2 bricks and the spacing of the seams, and the second row is bonded. Here we draw your attention to the fact that the vertical seams of the bonder and spoon rows are not allowed to coincide.

If you are planning a wall of one and a half bricks, then a more complex technology should be used: the masonry is 1 spoon and 2 bonded bricks. Naturally, the seam should also move as the rows rise.

Multi-row dressing

Usually, in the majority of cases, there is no need to perform every second row in a poking way. At the same time, the strength of the wall will not suffer too much when alternating up to 6 spoon rows with 1 bonder row. However, there are limitations.

In a tychkovy way, the following must be laid out without fail:

• Last and first rows;
• All elements that protrude (cornices);
• Parts of the wall under the beams.

Lightweight brick laying

This method is used during the construction of houses with a small number of floors. A distinctive feature will be that there are large cavities in the wall, most often filled with thermal insulation (mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.). A wall made of lightweight masonry is 2 walls (usually half a brick). Lightweight masonry methods can be very different in implementation.

• Laying method with three-row diaphragms- alternate 5 rows of a hollow wall inside with 3 bond rows. Laying 3 rows is necessary so that the length of one brick is not enough to connect the structural elements, and the organization of the dressing will make it possible to form the reliability of the structure.

Masonry with diaphragms. 1-expanded clay or foam concrete, 2 - screed, 3-solid corner, 4-diaphragm.

• well masonry It is called so because in the context it looks very much like a chain of wells. Between the thin walls, the dressings are placed one above the other vertically.

• Anchor brick-concrete masonry uses foam concrete instead of insulation. Those bonded bricks that protrude from each wall into the interior cavity form the anchoring of the concrete to the wall.

• The method of laying bricks with a layer occurs with the formation of 5-6 cm gaps in such a way that a reliable dressing is obtained, and also that there is no possibility of mutual displacement of the inner and outer walls. The resulting layer acts as thermal insulation and may well be filled with some kind of insulation.

Method of reinforced masonry

This method is used in the construction of brick walls, which can perform various functions:

• The applied reinforcement is able to give the wall additional rigidity and reliability in earthquake-prone areas.

• The use of reinforcement may be due to the replacement of the laying of butt rows or diaphragms during the construction of heat-insulated lightweight walls.

decorative masonry

The method of decorative masonry is used in cases where the wall will not be plastered. In such cases, it will be a natural decision to give the surface the most attractive appearance. It will be difficult to bring here all types of brickwork with the provision of a decorative surface at the facade, but we still list the main ones:

Formation of a pattern of different colors of bricks by chain ligation. It is the simplest solution for the joint use of silicate and red bricks.

The use of Bavarian masonry, i.e. in each row several bricks with a dark shade alternate.

With this method, the facing brick is used to lay out the relief corner of the structure.

The use of decorative masonry, together with careful cutting of seams, can be attractive not only on the facade, but also inside. We talked about this in more detail in the article "".

In this case, an unusually shaped decorative brick was used.

With this method, an imitation of partially destroyed and rough masonry is organized. But most often for such an interior, wall relief panels are used.

Openwork way

Brick usually evokes associations with solid capital walls for everyone. But, despite this, it is quite possible to build weightless-looking walls and fences from it.

Fences and walls do not have to be straight, as everyone is used to. So, during the construction of ancient castles and fortresses, hewn stones were used, but even curvilinear structures and not necessarily monolithic ones can be made from ordinary bricks.