Why is the earth like a stone. Improve heavy soils. Mulching with cut grass

The development of a summer cottage, where nothing cultural has grown for a long time, is not a quick matter. How to make beds that will give next year good harvest? The well-known gardener and gardener Nikolai Kurdyumov tells how to improve clay soil, sandy and how do-it-yourself beds differ from ordinary ones.

My friend in his youth lived in the famous village of Starocherkasskaya, the capital of the Don Cossacks. Don floodplain, meadow chernozems, two meters high, soft. And his garden was also on the site of the old regimental stables.

I remember he sincerely complained: well, it's a real torment to harvest! Potatoes in weeds - almost a bucket from a bush, beets - two pieces no longer fit into a bucket! Of course, to improve such soil is only to spoil it. It is enough for her to return as much organic matter as has grown on it. And digging it is a crime. But we have few such happy places. My friend is just lucky.

For us, simple clayey, in order to achieve good fertility, we need to work with the soil. And in order not to wait years, it is better to immediately improve the soil in the beds - the first and last time, but dramatically. Oh, how many times I regretted not doing it right away!

Soil improvement during site development: where to start

If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and, if possible, a fine screening of expanded clay. If it is poor sandy loam, clay and humus are needed. In both cases, a third of the new volume of the beds should be organic matter, which has rotted to varying degrees. And only a peat bog needs fresh nitrogenous organics: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unusable grain or spoiled feed. And also some clay and sand.

Renowned Austrian permaculturist and nature farmer Sepp Holzer uses his method to rapidly build up a humus reserve in extremely poor soils and harsh climates. A trench 40–50 cm deep and of the same width is dug in place of the beds. It is clogged with dry trunks, branches, rotten. This is the primary supply of slow organics and a "sponge" for moisture during the drought.

Then the trench is dug in, and in the Sepp version, the earth is thrown from the sides, fitting into a rampart 70–100 cm high. The meaning of the rampart is a huge difference in microclimate. Sunny windward side - hot and dry. Sunny lee - hot and humid, subtropics. Shady without wind - humid and not hot, shady with wind - not hot, but it blows out moisture.

FROM shady side plants will climb up the ridge. In the sun - they will bush and fly, like on the beach. Given all this, Sepp sows the shaft with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and squash, beans, corn and sunflowers - everything that has large seeds and quickly increases biomass.

By the way, the area of ​​the slopes of the rampart is one and a half of the area of ​​its base.

The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from the wind with branches, and the branches with longitudinal poles. The great dignity of the shaft - early and fast heating of the soil. A trench formed between the ridges - branches were also placed in it and covered with straw. The roots will reach here too.

Sowing is done directly into the straw using a pointed peg. Seeds germinate after rains. All plant residues remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes are planted here, and various rutabaga with turnips, and pumpkins with zucchini, and on top - a wall of corn.

Beautiful, deep, natural! But to be honest, this is for the most enthusiastic permaculture and personally Sepp owners of a hectare. For my garden, three acres is not an option. We are not accustomed to climbing steep ramparts and unraveling freely mixed bushes. We do not know the behavior of different plants so much. I won't take it from the air. So I'm leaning towards more conventional methods.

In my early books - "according to John Jevons". In fact, all smart gardeners and growers do this. But it just so happened: Jevons wrote a bestseller, I read it in the late 90s and was impressed.

John is an American organ farmer and hard worker, the inventor of "bio-intensive mini-agriculture" (BIMZ). The yields from his beds were many times larger than traditional ones - you must admit, this is impressive.

He began to invent on extremely bad, poor soil. Therefore, I improved it immediately, and then increased fertility not from scratch. The meaning is simple: you need to mix the soil with organic matter (and, if necessary, with sand or clay) to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel. Well, two bayonets - this is in hot California. One and a half (35-40 cm) is enough for us. And three or four spades wide.

Jevons suggests mixing the soil with additives, gradually moving along the garden: removed upper layer, mixed the bottom with compost, returned the top layer, mixed it with compost, moved a little further ... I make it easier. Improving my clay bed with sand, I take out the most fertile top layer entirely and fold it from the edge. I mix additives into the bottom and return the top layer to its place, also mixing something.

The top, most organic layer is taken out, it is on the left. The bottom is mixed with sand. The top layer is returned in the same way with sand. This is the only way I have been able to drastically reduce the density of my clay soil. The comfort zone for the roots has almost doubled in depth. It remains to re-structure the soil - this will be done by worms and roots.

So let's take the best of both worlds. We take out the top 10–15 cm of the most fertile soil. We deepen the bottom with a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel. In the trench - logs and thick branches, but not thick, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly restored.

It is harmless to lightly powder this windbreak with some kind of nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it with a dung mash or the contents of a dry closet - it will rot faster. It is useful to throw in some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. In the dry south it is exceptionally harmless to pour hydrogel, circles per square meter.

We return down the subsoil from the trench, pushing it between the pieces of wood. We scatter the excess subsoil in the aisles or take it away. At the bottom we put one or two strips of immature compost or grass, flavored with EM, "Shine" or another bioactivator. Then we fill the bed with the top layer taken out, interspersed with additives (sand / clay) and humus.

It turns out a raised bed - a convex gentle shaft. The bulge adds a lot of space and light to the plants, and in the spring it better receives the sun's rays. For the damp Non-Black Earth Region and - an ideal option for do-it-yourself beds. In the steppe zone, you need and.

In the photo - beds-ridges on the site of Irina Kalmykova on Taman. They warm up much earlier and better. Here, in a very dry area, they are covered with a special mulch film, under which drip tapes lie.

The result of our sweating: the bed is ready to immediately give a decent harvest. The difference is visible in the first year. Look at the photo. Three cucumber bushes on the right are on improved soil, two on the left are on normal soil. Garden L. Lobanov, Ivanovo.

In the next photo, the soil on the right is also improved. Filling with organics and bioactivator at the same time added warmth to the soil. Eggplant yield is 9 times more than from the left control bush. Experience of A. Bushikhin, Yaroslavl.

Already a lot! But this is only the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by living creatures, not structured, not pierced by roots, not sown with coprolites of worms and other poop. Now we will improve it every year with natural forces: plants, worms, microbes and fungi. But it is already easy. Our main business is feed the soil workers and all kinds of organic matter. Another important work - don't disturb them. The rest they will do themselves. And I assure you - they will make it as wonderful as you never dreamed of.

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Improve heavy soils.

Loosening and aeration of heavy soils has a beneficial effect on the crop, so clay soils need our help and thanks to this very help we will turn it into fertile.

In general, heavy soils are soils with a high content of clay, feel a little greasy to the touch and form a shiny surface if you run your finger over it. From it you can form various figures and they will not fall apart. congratulations on you clay soil. Although it is rich in nutrients, it unfortunately cannot boast of moisture and breathability. In rainy weather, it is better not to walk on it, and even more so not to process it, since it is sticky and heavy when wet and still forms dense clods. And, on the contrary, in a dry form it is just a nightmare - it can be hard as a stone and with manifestations of cracks.

But it does not matter, the main thing is the land and it can be improved. Due to poor air permeability, the biological activity of these soils is very low. Microorganisms in this soil are not only lacking air, and sometimes they also lack heat. This whole picture can be improved in two ways:

Mechanically - by loosening and adding sand. This gives the soil more air and thus it will be better heated.

Organically - by adding organic substances, which also improves breathability and enriches with nutrients.

The first way is good in the fall - when digging and loosening the soil (yes, I know how hard it is), add additives such as mature beam, compost, sand or synthetic substances (they can be purchased at specialized stores). It is also recommended to sow green fertilizers. (see Green Manure) with deep roots, such as clover, lupins, or a mixture of legumes and herbs. Leave green fertilizers for the winter so that they freeze, and in the spring dig it all up. This will give us not only aeration of the soil but also fill it with organic matter.

Nothing works better for improving heavy soils than crumbly compost (see compost) that is prepared from garden waste, and not mature compost can be used as mulch (see ref. mulch). Spread the mature compost over the surface and bring it into the soil by digging. This will give us loosening, aeration and fertilizer for the soil.

So it is best to improve the soil - in the fall. Tidy up the beds and flower beds where we will improve the soil with you. We remove all weeds, loosen the soil with a pitchfork at least 20 cm, then scatter or distribute compost 10 cm thick on the surface and sprinkle flour from rocks on top with a thin layer. Then for the winter we cover with a thick layer of leaf mulch. Next year we plant potatoes in these places, it will loosen the soil for us, and as soon as we harvest, we plant green manure.

Or you can produce an alternative way to improve the soil:

Applying sand, lava granules or synthetic flake mixes in the fall improves breathability. Lupins, used as green manure, will provide the soil with deep loosening and enrich it. In the meantime, your soil is preparing and has not yet become fertile enough - plant vegetables in high beds.

Well, since I said nothing about additives to heavy soils, let's briefly explain what's what:

Leaf compost is an organic supplement; slightly sour; when using, add flour from rocks, carbonic lime, horn flour; aerates the soil.

Compost - organic mineral supplement; fertilizes the soil, makes it more loose and crumbly; it needs to be spread out in a layer of 1-5 cm, superficially applied to the soil; suitable for mulching.

Ripe navoi - organic additive; decayed cow or horse dung; straw and flour from rocks should be added to fresh manure, left for a year and only then used.

Peat is an organic additive; slow growing natural product; loosens and oxidizes the soil; in order to protect environment It is better not to use this supplement.

Chaff or pods - organic additive; breakdown product of spelled, rice or oats; quickly decomposes in the soil; loosens and aerates; contains a little nutrients; put into the soil.

Lava granules - mineral supplement; crushed volcanic rock; rich in nutrients and trace elements; fertilizes, loosens; apply to soil or mulch.

Flour from rocks - a mineral supplement; rock, ground to a dusty state; rich in nutrients and trace elements; fertilizes; apply in a thin layer.

Coarse-grained sand - mineral additive; improves water permeability; additional organic matter is always required; do not use fine sand as it compacts the soil.

Lime is a mineral additive; fertilizer, which facilitates the supply of nutrients to plants; increases the acid balance of the soil, neutralizes acidic soils and activates the microflora.

I hope this information will be more than enough to get you started. Therefore, you can safely start fighting. The main thing to remember is that it is best to do soil mulching in spring and loosening in autumn. And in your gardens, heavy soils will be light and fertile. Good luck to you.

Arguing passionately about ways to increase the yield of certain garden crops, many summer residents lose sight of the fact that all these questions have one root. And until you deal with it, nothing worthwhile will grow in the beds.

Don't press for pity

There is a saying: “A fool grows weeds, a smart one grows vegetables, and a wise one grows soil.” In these words, the whole meaning of working in the garden lies! And you, dear readers, what do you think? Do you agree with this saying?

And what type of people do you consider yourself to be: hard-nosed conservatives or curious innovators?

Although, I understand, no one wants to be stupid, probably everyone considers themselves wise. Is that so? How often do I read letters that are filled with complaints about the soil: some complain that their land is sand, others cry from clay, and still others generally make “discoveries” such as, for example, loamy black soil. What is this, does anyone know? And all such messages end the same way - nothing grows in the garden, and if it does, then it's bad.

But, fortunately, there are other messages where people tell how they turned poor land into fertile. And there are more and more such lucky ones, which is very pleasing. Thank them! They are real hard workers. And since we are talking about the soil, then how can we not remember about our second bread.

Potatoes are the best indicator of what's going on in the garden. He needs good, loose land, without which you will not expect normal crops.

And the one who managed to fulfill this main condition and make friends with potatoes, the rest of the garden crops will no longer be able to confuse - which of them will be kinky on a fertile land? For example, varietal large-fruited garlic generally grows in me, like on a conveyor belt (photo 1). And for carrots and other root crops, loose earth is also good.

Again, experience with potatoes teaches you to be careful and thoughtful about watering. With them, our second bread yields twice as much. Anyone who underestimates this loses a lot. And any fertilizers and all kinds of growth stimulants are only the third condition for a good harvest.

Why tubers need loose earth, I think no one needs to explain. But maybe someone doesn't know? Then in short: if the soil is light, then the growing tuber effortlessly pushes it apart, and nothing interferes with its uniform growth. So it turns out to be even, depending on the variety, round or oblong, as his breeder “ordered”. And it is more difficult to push the heavy soil apart, so the potatoes are smaller there and more bizarre in shape.

voids and dimensions

I've experienced all these tricks myself. When I bought a small house in the village with a plot of 20 acres, I immediately realized that the former owners did not work in the garden, because there was no land there, but solid clay. In 2011, I planted 12 varieties of potatoes. Only one survived and gave an excellent harvest - Vineta (originally from Germany). Apparently, there is in it some kind of indestructible inner strength. I still do not part with it: it gives a harvest in any weather and on any land, it is resistant to late blight.

That year, his tubers were also huge, but not round, as they should be, but bumpy, like cobblestones. Here it is - the result of uncultivated soil. I don’t have photos of that time, but today Vineta’s tubers are the same as in photo 2. I write about him so much because I am very grateful to him. If he didn’t give a harvest then, I might have refused to grow potatoes at all. Therefore, I advise: if you are new to the cultivation of this crop, start with Vineta. Well, now I’ll tell you in detail how I improved my soil. By the way, the question is: do you know the criteria for assessing its quality? After all, the words "good" or "loose" by themselves mean little.

So here it is loose soil is when a hand can be thrust into it without effort up to the wrist(i.e. approximately to a depth of 15-20 cm). So that. So think about what kind of land you have.

And for starters, I marked out the ridges a meter wide, and my husband fenced them with boards. It is already easier: all work to improve fertility now needs to be carried out only in stationary boxes. I made the passages between them 50 cm each. Looking ahead, I’ll say that later, for the sake of convenience, I changed these dimensions: I made the ridges a little less than 1.5 m wide, and the passages 70 cm each.

I plant potatoes in boxes in two rows. Believe me, the less often the holes are placed, the more opportunities for normal growth will be for the plants. And only then will they please you first with strong, powerful stems, and then with large, numerous tubers (unless, of course, your variety has not degenerated yet).

Although I don’t strive for records, the past season was generous with achievements. For example, one tuber of the Unica variety grew to weigh a little more than a kilogram (photo 3). Someone, reading this, will say: “And that’s all!” I won’t argue, the weight is not prohibitive, but it’s not 150-200 g either. There are gardeners who don’t like very large potatoes (although I haven’t personally met them, but only saw their letters) out of fear that inside the “giants” there may be voids. Well, then they can save time and not read what I write here - this information is not for them. Although those large-tuber potato varieties that I currently grow do not have any voids. And a large potato just pleases my soul. Imagine, one bush of the same Unika gives 4-5 kilos of tubers, Sonny - about the same, but the Galaxy is a little more generous: in the same last year, it gave out six kilos in general (photo 4)!

Yes, it’s hard for me to harvest such a crop: you dig and dig and think when is the end. And the number of varieties, like a snowball, grows and grows, although I reject 10 varieties every year. As a result, I don’t even know exactly how many of them I have in use now (last autumn they sent me 21 varieties).

Soil improvement experiments

Distracted again. Let's go back to earth. For the first two years, I did this: I brought peat, manure, sawdust by car and distributed it all over the ridges, mixing it with clay. The result was ambiguous: the soil really became loose, but by the next season there were no traces of sawdust and peat. Some kind of martyshkin work! Although the earth by that time could no longer be called clay, but loam, I realized that this path was a dead end. And yes, it was hard work.

My next experiment was this. I dug holes in the ridges with a volume of a 10-liter bucket, transferred the excavated earth to another place (for example, on ridges made for watermelons and pumpkins), placed fertilizer on the bottom, mixing them with the soil, on top - along the tuber with long etiolated (sprouted in in the dark) with sprouts (photo 5), and filled the remaining space with well-decomposed black peat. If desired, it can be replaced with loose compost or earth mixed with sawdust, or finely chopped hay.

This work was also not easy: during the season it was possible to prepare only 13-14 ridges in this way. Potatoes in such pits grew remarkably, the yield was at its best. But! When I dug up the crop, the peat was still mixed with loam, because in the presence of loose soil, the tubers not only grow to the sides, but also burrow into the depths. And I was forced to improve the technique.

It's very simple, remember. So, first we enclose the place where the bed should be with boards, take out the sod and hammer many small wooden logs into the bottom of the ridge. Next, fill the box with a loose substrate.

And that's it! In the spring, it remains only to add a little urea-treated sawdust and a little fertilizer for potatoes before planting.

I will add that I do not spud plantings, but only mulch them with a layer of cut grass 3 cm thick (but only after the sprouts have sprouted). Over the summer, I add this mulch a couple more times, and when I dig a crop, the ground under it remains loose. Actually, I don’t even dig, but I just take out the tubers with my hands. I take a shovel when the potatoes are deep.

I have to admit that it is only in words that everything looks easy and attractive - it is very difficult to make such ridges in reality. After all, I practically replace natural clay with another soil. Consider the amount of work! But everything is done only once, and the result is for many, many years. Even if you make at least five such ridges in one season, you will already achieve excellent results.

Chernozem, chernozem, fertility ... And it dries into stone. One year after mulching with hay was a very loose spring, but with mulch - tight.

What can loosen? Some advise adding sand and peat. I don’t know how sand is, but peat ... The soil is already acidic, why voluntarily acidify it additionally?

Read more tips:

High soil density can be caused by high sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to exclude liquid humate fertilizers, which contain sodium. The addition of compost or manure, limestone flour or peat will help increase the looseness of the soil.

To make the soil loose, I would bring in a sunflower husk machine, and if you want to have depleted and acidic soil, then bring in sand and peat.

- "In the autumn you sow rye, in the spring you dig as late as possible and that's it." Well, I'm wary of rye, but in general green manure should help. Although - a great discussion of green manure and whether they benefit

Not bad helps (if it is possible) to import a couple of humus machines, add buckwheat husks, add sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my friends does this - after weeding the weeds, she digs them along the paths, and the next year she makes beds on them.

Use peat, compost or rotted manure, it's good to add ash or lime. All this is laid out on the future bed and carefully dug up with a shovel, and then shake everything again with a pitchfork. And that's it. In the fall, after harvesting a super-harvest, you can add more peat and ash to the garden bed and again gently shake the soil with a pitchfork, picking out any debris. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen with a pitchfork and you can plant again.

Humus, mulch, green manure, rast. residue through a grinder. The earth became like fluff.

He brought everything to the beds: sand. manure, peat, ash, compost, foliage, pine needles, mowed grass. Watered with the biological product "Renaissance". As a result of many years of effort, soil appeared on the beds instead of clay. AT last years I use another method: I simply take out lumps of clay from the garden and dump them outside the site into a dump.

Local hotheads brought sawdust to the potato ridges on a dump truck. The ridge was dug up with sawdust. After that, there was no potato harvest for 3 years at all.

I decided to use sawdust last spring. I did as the specialists recommend: I added mineral fertilizers to sawdust: a lot of nitrogen and little phosphorus and potassium. The decrease in the potato yield on these 2 experimental beds was very noticeable: about 2 times. This season, the recovery of the yield of these 2 beds began.

[I soaked the sawdust in a solution of urea and laid it on the paths. In autumn, everything loosened up, the beds were planned in a new way]

To increase fertility [on clay], I would do this (preparing the beds): I removed the top layer of fertile soil to clay, poured clay with infusion of compost, manure, and added baker's yeast at the rate of 20g per bucket of water. + a third of a glass of jam. It turned out "lake", then I take a crowbar and make indentations in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get - the yeast, getting into the clay, begins to loosen the clay, releasing carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities are filled with a nutrient medium of diluted organic matter. And so we get a more structured soil

With my soil [granite and granite screenings + 8 KAMAZ chernozem] (on sandy soil the same technology) I make similar "lakes" only instead of yeast I add klester (I cook from flour)

And about the potato harvest - he loves warmth, long daylight hours, loose soil rich in potassium. (in potato tops 30-40% potassium)

If you invite earthworms as rippers, they will work almost for free. Well, only food waste, grass, yes, you can have a little manure. They worked for me.

The book "Ploughman's Madness" about the cultivation of such a site

We got our own piece of land more than twenty years ago. My parents got it. It was a former collective farm field, plowed up and down for many years. The first summer it was a sad sight: blocks of earth, turned out by a plow and hard as a stone, thickets of weeds.

How to approach this, what to do?
But as they say: "The eyes are afraid - the hands are doing."

I had to hollow out clods of earth with shovels, uproot weeds. The first year had to do with only planting potatoes. No water, no proper care, and the harvest is appropriate. In the fall, the first seedlings were planted, a berry bush was planted. No experience, they planted it somehow, later I had to redo a lot (oh, the current experience would be yes at that time, how much effort and labor could be saved!).

Over time, our site has changed tasted the first fruits of their labor. Mom's caring hands literally passed every grain of earth through themselves, there was not a single empty place, everything around was planted. Mother's viburnum is still growing, blooming wildly in spring and abundantly strewn with clusters of berries in autumn. Gradually, I also developed an interest in the land, apparently it was transmitted from my mother. I worked then in the north, I was at home only for two weeks, but any free time tried to spend in the garden.

But now my mother is gone. I had to gradually master the wisdom of growing seedlings, caring for plants. Stuffed a bunch of bumps before something began to work out. Experience gradually came, but the feeling of dissatisfaction did not leave me, too much effort was required to make to get the result. There must be some way to not spend so much effort to get a harvest. And, it seemed, he was found (as it turned out later, a dead end).

I came across a pamphlet "Vegetable growing in narrow beds, the D. Mitlider method." After reading it, I said to myself: "This is what you need." Only one and a half acres of land, of which only a third is cultivated to provide for a family from four people vegetables. I looked forward to spring, broke the beds (45 cm wide, meter paths), applied mineral fertilizers, as indicated, planted seedlings, sowed seeds. Every week I applied a portion of fertilizer according to the calculations. The harvest has been good. Good again next year. "That's how it's supposed to be!" I thought. But in the third year I feel: something is wrong.

The earth turned smoky, turned to dust, the slightest lack of moisture - and it became like a stone, it was necessary to constantly water it, but the earth refused to accept water. From the constant introduction of "mineral water" the soil became acidic, it was necessary to make a large number of lime. Earthworms began to leave the beds. I persisted in working on the Mitlider. The earth was dying...

But as they say: "There would be no happiness, but misfortune helped." Spring 2003, heart attack, work on the ground is out of the question - the doctors forbade it. But how can you excommunicate from your favorite garden. I decided: "I will not quit!". Yes, it wasn’t there, I picked up a shovel, dug a meter and that’s it. I had to plant and sow in undigged beds, only sprinkled with humus on top.

In this difficult time, Nikolai Kurdyumov's book "Smart Garden and Tricky Garden" fell into my hands. I read it and thought: “What the hell is not joking, I have nothing to lose, all of a sudden it will work out.” And I got down to business.

Well, of course, in the first year, not everything worked out as it should, but "the beginning is the beginning." I stopped digging (I still couldn’t do it), I just loosened, mulched the soil as much as possible, began to use EM preparations, first Baikal, and then Radiance.

On the paths that I had previously scraped to a shine, I allowed the grass to grow. I mowed it as it grew and used it as mulch. The "weeds" also went into action, and they turned from enemies into helpers. Their roots penetrate to such a depth, get out of there and leave behind a lot of nutrients that it would be foolish not to use this for your own good.

As soon as the opportunity arose, he sowed green manure, whose roots replaced my shovel, and the green mass after pruning served as a shelter from the scorching sun, and as it decomposed, and food for the next generation of plants.

The beds were never empty, except that in early spring. The abundance of organics has attracted a lot of earthworms, and now the main work to improve the soil lies with them.

Wild herbs also appeared on my site: yarrow, celandine, sweet clover, knotweed. Somehow I prepared an infusion of nettles, used it, and scattered the remnants around the site. Now I have my own nettle growing in several places, cut off in one place for infusion, next time in another, lo and behold, it has already grown again.

There was even a place for wormwood, scattered sprigs over cabbage, you don’t like cruciferous flea, and you don’t like whitefish, but the infusion helps against many pests. Yes, pest problems have been solved.

Healthy, strong plants can stand up for themselves. By the way, I began to notice that many insects, which we consider pests, prefer to settle on weeds, if any.

In a greenhouse, for example, if garden thistle grows (such a prickly plant), then the aphid does not touch my cucumbers. In the thick grass there is where to hide my assistants - predatory insects. Lizards and frogs settled in my house. Well, do you need pesticides after that?

Gradually the earth began to revive and it became clear that without extra effort you can work on the ground. For six years my land does not know what a shovel is, and every year it gets better and better. Plants almost do not get sick, there are fewer and fewer “pests and weeds”, and working in the garden is only a pleasure.

Ildus Khannanov, Ufa