Tulips are spring flowers. Blooming tulips all year round Growing tulips in flower pots

Many gardeners, trying to get early shoots of tulips, plant them not in spring, but in autumn. This is a reasonable decision, since from being in cold soil, substances are produced in the bulbs that in the spring contribute to the accelerated development of the plant.

When planting tulips in the fall, it is very important to choose the right time and do all the work correctly. Incorrect and untimely planting can lead to the death of bulbs in winter or poor seedling quality in spring.

Choosing the best landing time

One of the features of planting tulips in the fall is that there are no specific calendar dates when this can be done. Approximately, gardeners give the period from September 15 to October 1, and in regions with a warm climate - from September 15 to October 15. But more often during the autumn planting, they are guided not so much by dates as by soil temperature.

When the soil temperature drops to 5 - 7 degrees, you can start planting the bulbs in the ground. You can determine this moment even more precisely by measuring the temperature at a depth of 9 - 11 cm - it should be approximately +10 degrees. Of course, the soil must be sufficiently moist.

It is important to understand that after planting the bulb in the soil, it must take root there, and for this it will take from three weeks to a month. If the bulb does not have time to take root in the ground before frost, then it can either die or germinate in the spring, but the tulip will be weak and inconspicuous. If the planting is too early, then the bulb can not only take root, but also give a sprout that will die during the first cold snap.

Choosing the best place for planting tulips

Tulips love the sun, and therefore for them the best place- well lit ridge. If you plant tulips in the shade, they will also grow, but the quality of the stems and buds will decrease.

Tulip bulbs love moderate humidity. Excessive moisture can kill the plant. Therefore, it is important to choose a place where the water will not stand for a long time and soak the roots.

Because of the "puddles" on the ridge, there may be trouble with the wintering of the bulbs. The fact is that due to excess moisture, the temperature under the ground will be lower, and when cold weather sets in, plants may die.

It is better to plant tulips in neutral or slightly alkaline fertilized soil. If the soil is acidic, then it should be limed. You can not plant tulips in places where previously there were diseased plants, as the infection will spread to new shoots.

Preparing for landing

Before planting tulips, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

• The bulbs should be sorted out, the diseased ones should be put aside and the healthy ones should be divided into varieties. Diseased plants can become a source of infection for healthy ones, and as a result, the entire shoot will suffer.
• A month before planting, the place that is allocated for a ridge for tulips must be dug up to a depth of 25 cm and divided so that the tulips can be planted by variety.
• Fertilize the ridge. Fertilizers can be used either purchased or homemade, but not fresh manure, as it can cause fungus to develop on the bulbs.

After all the preparation work is completed, and the soil temperature has reached the required value, you can proceed to the planting itself.

How to properly land

The landing process is not difficult, you only need to follow certain rules:

1. The depth of planting depends on the size of the tulip bulb and the severity of the soil in which it is planted. So, for light soil, these are three bulb diameters, and for heavy soil, two diameters.
2. Large bulbs are planted in rows, while the distance between plantings in a row is about 10 cm, and the distance between the rows themselves is about 20 cm. Smaller bulbs can be planted "in Dutch": in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
3. due to different growth different varieties tulips, tall stems of some varieties can block the light of less tall specimens, so planting should be done in tiers. The lowest varieties are planted on the sunny side: this way they get enough light and can fully develop.
4. Tulips should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the root of the bulb. You should not press the bulb so that it enters the ground better: this way you can imperceptibly damage the root and spoil the future tulip.
5. After planting, you need to level the ridge so that there are no holes left in places where there were holes. These holes can accumulate rainwater, soaking the bulbs and causing them to rot or freeze.

Despite the fact that tulips tolerate cold well, after a frost, the ridge can be covered with a layer of mulch. It will help the bulbs endure the winter cold and protect the soil from cracking. Peat is suitable as such a substance, which must be distributed over the ridge with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Mouse Landing Protection

When carrying out all the work on planting the bulbs, you also need to take care of their protection from small rodents. Mice can ruin an entire tulip crop in one winter, so it makes sense to take protective measures against them. Among the known methods of protecting ridges with plantings from rodents, one can distinguish "biological", "chemical" and "physical".

From "biological":

• landing along the edges of the ridge of hazel grouse
• landing along the edges of the ridge of daffodils

From "chemical":

• processing bulbs before planting with Vishnevsky ointment.
• applying a thin layer of kerosene from a spray bottle to the bulbs.
• when planting, sprinkle red pepper on the bulbs
• spraying a ridge with tulips with a tincture of valerian roots

From "physical":

• planting plants in homemade or special containers (for example, the lower halves plastic bottles, special landing boxes)
• placement of self-made protective caps over the landing site

The action of "biological" protective equipment based on mice's dislike of certain plants. In this case, bulbous plants are given that have poisonous bulbs that scare away animals. But this method of protection cannot be called particularly reliable, since mice can crawl around the poisonous roots of hazel grouse and daffodils and get to tulips.

The action of "chemical" remedies is based on the fact that the substances with which the bulbs are treated cause disgust in mice. So, rodents do not like red pepper and will not gnaw onions on which it is applied.

"Physical" means act as a normal barrier to the path of the animal. Here it is worth considering that not every material is reliable, since mice can gnaw through thin plywood and even wood. Better take plastic containers, and it is worth protecting the landing both from below and from above.

Summing up

So, when planting tulips in the fall, it is important to remember the following:

• Planting time is selected based on soil temperature. 5 - 7 degrees is quite a suitable temperature for starting work.
• Before planting, the ridge needs to be dug up by 30 cm and fertilized, and all diseased and small ones should be selected from the bulbs.
• Planting is carried out at a depth equal to 2 bulb diameters in heavy soil and 3 diameters - into the lung, the distance between plants is best made equal to 10 cm.
• When planting, care must be taken that high varieties of tulips do not cover low ones; it is best to plant them in tiers.
• After planting, the ridge needs to be leveled so that rainwater does not accumulate in the formed holes.
• After frosts, it is good to cover the ridge with a layer of peat in order to additionally protect the plants from freezing during severe frosts in winter.
• So that the works are not in vain, you must also take care of protecting the landings from mice. To do this, you can plant bulbs in containers made of plastic or other durable material, and also treat them with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment before planting.

What flowers to plant in the shade? This question is of interest to many people who have their own homes and have little idea where and what plants will be planted. Moreover, in almost any garden there are places where the rays of the sun do not fall, and they are often considered unfavorable for planting crops. However, in such a place with a shady surface, many plants, trees and flowers can be placed. It is shade-loving plants that delight the eye with embossed, bright, beautiful leaves, which are sometimes more attractive than the flowers themselves. Shade-loving plants are very different from light-loving ones not only in their preferences, but also in appearance.

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Choosing a place for planting shade-loving plants

Before landing, it is necessary to assess the place, namely:

1. 1 The density of the shade on the site, as there are plants that love solid shade, and there are those that will not be harmed by an hour in the sun.
2. 2 The presence of trees is an important factor, since many plants are best planted under trees, bushes, thickets.
3. 3 Soil quality. There are plants that will survive in any soil, while others need a special substrate.
4. 4 Proximity ground water. Many shade-loving plants love moisture, and some can do without it.
5. 5 Probability of flooding. It is very important that in places where flooding is possible, crops are planted that can withstand a large number of water.

After choosing a site, you can start planting plants.

Kinds of flowers

Trees and shrubs are more often planted in the shady zone, but flowering crops here can also please the eye.



Flowers growing in the shade are divided into:

1. 1 Shade-loving plants are plants that do not like the sun. They cannot be planted in a hot place - they will not survive. Representatives of such flowers are: hosta, periwinkle, lily of the valley, hoof, kupena, ever-flowering begonia.
2. 2 Shade-tolerant plants can grow not only in the shade, but also in the sun. The shade-tolerant ones include: doronicum, astilbe, aquilegia, clobuche aconite, bergenia, Waller's balsam, dicenter, tenacious, or ayuga, iris, daylily, forget-me-not, liverwort, fragrant violet.

Both are suitable for landscaping shaded areas in the garden.

You should immediately decide which ones you want to plant and for how long: there are annuals and perennials.

Shade-loving annuals

Annuals sprout, grow, flower, produce seeds and die in one growing season. If plants develop very quickly, then these are ephemera. If they sprout in the fall, then these are winter. Annual flowers are brighter than perennials. In another way, we can say that annuals develop in the spring, and die off in the fall.

Among the shade-resistant annuals, pansies, daisies, etc. can be distinguished. They create beauty on the site even in the shade. Such cultures have rich colors, but only bloom for a season.

Pansies grassy - fragrant and beautiful, light-loving, but perfectly exists in the shade. The flower loves moderate humidity. It blooms in spring, summer or autumn. Height from 10 to 50 cm.



Pansies are one-year-olds (with the exception of two-year-olds). They have thin stems with a branched structure. The leaves are beautiful, heart-shaped or oblong. The buds are large, up to 10 cm in diameter, on long stems, grow one at a time. The color of the buds is different: they can be both monophonic and in three colors at the same time:

• yellow;
• blue;
• blue;
• white;
• purple.

Daisies bloom very beautifully, forming thickets where weeds do not germinate. This is an annual that loves both light and shade. Can be a perennial in full sun. Daisies are indifferent to winter. This plant blooms in May-June. There are creeping, up to 5-7 cm, and growing, from 10 to 60 cm. It is worth noting that this plant is edible. Daisy can be an ornament from early spring to late autumn.

All the plants that bloom in early spring and are bulbous, can be attributed to annual plants, loving shade. These are flowers such as: snowdrops, galanthus, scillas, muscari, daffodils, tulips, white flowers, ornithogalum (poultry), crocosmia. Grow them under shrubs. Such plants bloom in early spring, when the trees are still bare.



Overview of perennials

Perennials are the most common plants that live more than 2 years. When they reach a certain age, they can bloom again without dying. Their root system penetrates deeper into the soil than that of annual plants. Plants can repeat flowering many times. They also adapt easily to environmental changes.

Mostly perennials are shade-loving. Most of them are resistant to cold, but there are also those that need to be covered or even dug up for transfer to a fairly cool place where the temperature is not lower than -5 ° C. In some flowers, the leaves fall off for the winter, and in many they retain their vital activity. all year round.




It is shade-loving, unpretentious, does not require special treatments, does not cause allergies, is invulnerable to almost all insects and diseases. The main advantage of moss is its evergreenness. Moss grows well under trees, independently creates decorative compositions. They are decorated with fences, tree trunks, walls, sculptures and even roofs. It also helps to preserve the harvest in winter: carrots, beets, apples and other vegetables and fruits are stored in dry moss (the moss is dried in advance). Fruits that are stored in moss do not lose their smell and aroma, do not rot or freeze, as the moss absorbs excess moisture.

indoor cultures

In our time, plants appeared that were only indoor, and now they are planted in gardens. For example, ever-flowering begonia and Waller's balsam. New varieties of these crops are cold-hardy. Now they are grown in the garden. They are just right for shady places.



In gardens, you can often find tuberous begonias and calla lilies. Although they can be grown in shaded areas, they should overwinter in a house or basement.

Some indoor plants are transplanted into the garden for the summer. It is better to do this after the 20th of May and before the 10th of June. The soil must be fertilized with humus, the bush should be inserted into the hole without destroying the root assistance. It is advisable to transplant where there is no constant exposure to sunlight.

Plants such as fatshedera, helksina, cymbidium, some types of citrus fruits, myrtle, palm, adenium, acocanter can spend the summer outside.



The most common options

Beautiful daffodils, delicate violets, charming primroses, tulips, magnificent hyacinths, early lilies of the valley are among best plants that do great in the shade. They must be planted alternately near shrubs or under trees, they will grow beautifully and please the eye. It is important that all these crops have time to bloom even before the leaves open, so they are practically not shaded.

The magnificent dicentra looks very beautiful, which can decorate any shady area after its flowering. It is very interesting: flowers bloom on an arched stem. And it looks like someone strung the buds of a plant on a thin thread.

Another gorgeous flower that loves shade is the bluebell lactiflora.

Large-rhizome geranium is popularly called the old-timer of garden plots. This culture - a favorite neighbor of many plants - is unpretentious in care, not capricious. It blooms very beautifully and for a long time. There are many benefits to this plant.

The Japanese anemone has bright beautiful flowers and large leaves that will decorate any darkened area in the garden.



There is a flower that stands until the very cold weather - fuchsia. It will add charm to any clearing. Aconite grows well next to fuchsia. It can be planted in the shade, where it will bloom until winter.

The catchment is a magnificent shade-loving flower: blue, purple, pink, red. It will delight with its flowering from spring to autumn.

Snapdragon - shade plant, a flower with a wide variety of buds. Grows over a meter.

If you do not like flowers, you can use plants with unusual decorative leaves. You should choose:

1. 1 Hosta, which is able to create blue and green oases from magnificent openwork leaves. Their shape depends on the variety. This plant is loved by snails, but to remove them from the site, you can use a container with a small amount of beer. As the snails accumulate, the containers are taken out of the territory.
2. 2 Ferns. They will bring the atmosphere of wild nature into the garden.
3. 3 Foxglove loves shade and propagates by self-seeding. It comes in pink, red, yellow and white.

There are a lot of plants that can be planted in the garden in places where shade prevails or there is no sun at all. Which plants to use depends only on the preferences of the person. Some people like flowers, others are more attracted to leaves. All cultures are very beautiful in their own way. Annuals will help you change the appearance of the site every year, and perennials will eventually become an element of its decor.

The main thing when choosing plants is to remember that growing in the shade is a serious test for plants, and not everyone can stand it, so you need to choose shade-loving unpretentious species. It is necessary to water flowers in the shade infrequently, moderate watering is optimal. It is better to plant and transplant flowers in May.

Choose the right flowers that can be planted in the shade in the country, follow the recommendations, and the plants will delight you for a long time.

Tulip is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family, which has earned an enviable popularity in the world of breeding and horticulture in its history and occupies a prominent place in the list of the most popular ornamental plants.

Story

The homeland of the tulip is Turkey. In the middle of the 16th century, despite all the export restrictions, the flower was transported to the capital of Austria, and then to Holland. English, French, German merchants are fond of growing tulips. In those distant times, they are grown in the gardens of only noble and wealthy people. In Russia, these flowers appear during the time of Peter I.

Symbolism

There are many things associated with tulips. beautiful legends and symbolic meanings. Gentle and touching, they symbolize love, joy, happiness. The time of flowering tulips is associated with the arrival of spring, holidays and good mood.

Description

The plant admires the variety of varieties. The color of the flowers is striking in its color. They can be of the same color (white, yellow, red, purple, etc.), or they can combine several different shades.

The shape of the flower is bell-shaped, goblet-shaped, cup-shaped, in the form of a lily.

Goblet Cupped Oval Parrot Lilyflowered
Double Fringed Flower Forms

According to the terms, the varieties are divided into two types:

• Early flowering;
• Late flowering.

The beginning of the point of growth is a bulb, from which a straight stem appears with several leaves and one flower. The fruit is a trihedral box with triangular, flat, brown seeds.

Tulips grow well in full sun. An important condition is protection from the wind. In such places, tulips look healthier, brighter, bloom earlier.

Tulips are grown in group plantings of one or more varieties. Tulips prefer light, loose, rich, moderately moist soils. An important condition for growing are "clean beds", freed from weeds.

Landing

The bulbs are planted in the fall, when the period of natural biological dormancy ends in tulips. Only healthy bulbs are used for planting. Choose a time before the soil freezes, otherwise the bulbs may not have time to take root.

The landing pattern can be very different. Planting density is maintained up to 15-20 cm, depth up to 10-15 cm. Prepared holes or grooves are carefully watered and the bulbs are laid out in them with the bottom down. They fall asleep with earth, a layer of 5-10 cm.

Tulips tolerate winter well. In snowy winters with low temperatures, plantings are covered with warming organic material- peat, humus, leaves.

Care

Growing tulips is easy. it unpretentious plants requiring little care. Start care in the spring. After the snow cover has melted, the plantings are carefully loosened, with dry soil, regular, moderate watering is carried out. Tulips love moisture.

During the growth period of the tulip, three top dressings are carried out using solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers:

• The first is carried out after the emergence of shoots;
• The second - during budding;
• The third - after flowering.

Regularly carry out weeding and loosening. blooming tulips they don’t cut, but break off, leaving as many leaves as possible. After flowering, watering is reduced, wilted flowers are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on seed ripening. After yellowing and wilting of the leaves, the bulbs are dug up. So that the bulbs do not shrink, the digging procedure is repeated every season.
Before storage, the bulbs are disinfected in a four percent solution of karbofos to prevent diseases and protect against pests. Then dry in the shade outdoors, in a week.



Before storage, the bulbs are sorted, selecting large and medium sizes. Children are separated at the same time. Storage areas should have low ambient light and good ventilation.

The storage temperature should be around 17-20 degrees C. Under such conditions, the bulbs are stored until planting in open ground.

reproduction

You can propagate tulips:

• seeds;
• With the help of bulbs.

Seed propagation is used more often by breeders. Reproduction with bulbs is faster and more efficient. For these purposes, bulbs with a diameter of at least 12 cm are selected. It is believed that these are the ones that inherit the main varietal characteristics. Smaller bulbs need to be grown at home before planting in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Tulips can be affected by viral diseases. One of these is variegation, which is manifested by the presence of spots, strokes, stripes on leaves and flower petals. It is very difficult to deal with such diseases. It is important to observe disinfection measures, and if the plant is damaged, it is better to destroy it.



Fungal diseases may occur. These include various rots:

• Root;
• Gray;
• White;
• soft;
• wet;
• Tobacco necrosis virus, known as "August disease".

Plants affected by these diseases are also best removed, and the planting site and neighboring plants are disinfected. antifungal drugs. Ash treatment can be applied.

To protect against pests (bears, scoops, slugs), traps are placed and hung. Against rodents, the bulbs are sprayed with iron minium and mousetraps are placed.

Hello dear friends!

Today we will talk about the features growing tulips about how they differ from others

There is no such garden where tulips do not bloom and already in April their pointed seedlings pierce the melting snow - the leaves begin to grow.

And after 20-30 days they bloom and we can admire their luxurious flowering for up to 35 days.

In order to make it easy and enjoyable, you must follow a number of simple rules.

Growing Rules

1. Immediately at the beginning of spring, as soon as the snow melts (and even better in the snow), you need to feed the tulips chemical fertilizers- 15-30 g per 1 m 2 , but not more. When fertilizing, try not to forget that tulips do not grow well with elevated concentrations salts in the soil and, therefore, only half the dose recommended for bulb crops should be applied. I usually feed tulips with nitroammophos or special fertilizers for garden flowers: the first dressing is in the snow, the second is at the beginning of budding, the third is a week after flowering.

As of appearance tulips can determine which elements are missing in the soil. For example, if there is not enough nitrogen, then the leaf plates of the tulip become narrow and are no longer able to maintain a vertical position. The stems and leaves, at the same time, gradually acquire a red tint. With a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil, a blue-green color appears along the edges of the tulip leaves.

2. Basic spring care for tulips is to remove diseased plants, moreover, together with the bulb, roots and adjacent soil. At the same time, the hole is filled with a solution of potassium permanganate, which is sometimes recommended to be heated to a temperature of 70-100 ° C.

All agricultural practices - loosening, weeding, fertilizing, removing diseased and viral plants - must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the leaves and roots of healthy plants, because they are the ones that “feed” the bulb.

Leaves, stems, flowers grow very quickly in tulips, and even underground, active work is underway to increase the size of the daughter bulb and grandchild bulbs are laid. And this explains their short period of life. These rapid processes require a large number of nutrients and moisture in the soil. Therefore, during the period of budding and flowering, especially in the absence of rain, it is necessary to water the plants regularly. And also, in order to get a properly formed large replacement bulb, tulips must be watered for another two weeks after flowering.

In order to get large flowers in the second year and so that the bulb does not break up into small onions, a seed box should not be allowed to appear - when the flower begins to fade, you need to immediately remove it (tear off with your hands, not cut with a knife). At the same time, it is imperative to leave at least two leaves on the stem, because the future flower and bulb will feed on them.

Tulips love sun and well-drained, light soil. As a rule, bulbs are dug up every year, but if you plant tulips deeper and remember to feed them during growth and after flowering, they can grow in one place for several years. I transplant tulips every 3-4 years.

In June, as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, dig up the bulbs, dry them in the shade and store them in boxes until autumn, signing the name of the variety. Tulip bulbs can't stand direct sunlight. and, therefore (I want to repeat once again) they must be dried in the shade, in a well-ventilated place.

In September, it's time to plant tulips on the ridges. To do this, we make trenches 30 cm wide and about 20 cm deep. We pour superphosphate on the bottom. Attention! I remind you that in no case should you put manure under tulips (as well as under all bulbs), as this leads to rotting of the bulbs. First, we lay out large bulbs in trenches with the bottom down and lightly sprinkle with earth. Then we plant smaller ones between them and sprinkle again, and lay out the children along the edges. From above we fall asleep with the remaining earth. With this planting, the beds look more decorative in spring and there is no need to dig up tulips every year.

3. In winters with little snow, severe freezing of the soil to a depth of up to 20 cm is possible. If tulips survive the freezing temperature of the soil to minus 4 ° C without consequences and bloom normally in the spring, then freezing to minus 9 ° C is fraught with various deformations of the flower. Therefore, after the first frost, when the soil freezes at night and thaws during the day, it is better to cover the plantings of tulips with peat, humus, sawdust or straw with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Diseases and pests

If the tulip bulbs have sprouted, but the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then we can talk about the disease of the plant. Very often, diseases spread after damage by both a root onion mite, a bear, click beetles, and mechanical ones.

Symptoms fusarium rot (fusarium) are: sudden yellowing and drying of the ground part of the plant, the bulbs begin to turn brown and dry, a weak grayish coating of mycelium with spores appears.

penicillium rot manifests itself as follows: the scales on the surface of the bulb begin to turn yellow and then dense bluish-green sporulation rapidly grows. Rotting begins with flower buds and flower stalks and very often the bulb rots completely.

Bacterial rot (bacteriosis) develops mainly as a result of damage to the root onion mite, which feeds on the bottom and young roots of the bulb, sometimes nematodes also provoke the disease. With this disease, the bulbs turn brown and rot, an unpleasant odor appears.

One of the most common and dangerous viral diseases tulips are considered variegation virus. Outwardly, it appears on the petals of tulips in the form of various stripes and specks, which often look decorative and unusual. However, the virus infects all parts of the plant, slows down metabolic processes, provokes a delay in flowering and early yellowing of the leaves.

Or maybe you have your own interesting secrets in growing tulips, dear readers? Share with us!