Making a wooden barrel with your own hands. Types of wooden barrels How to make an oak barrel yourself

(Last Updated On: 09/19/2017)

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands in modern society? Surely, today you will not have to gouge a product from a solid tree trunk, as it was before. The modern barrel is very different from its fellow predecessors. The most important step towards its manufacture was the appearance of metal hoops, which very tightly pulled conical dishes.

What wood is better to make a barrel

oak tree

It is excellently pricked and, when steamed, acquires extraordinary flexibility. It is this quality that is highly valued. But, most importantly, in oak wood there are preservative substances called tills, which protect the tree from rotting. Therefore, products in oak barrels can retain their properties for many decades.

Cedar

Also used in the manufacture of barrels. Its properties are soft, flexible and light. Previously, it was believed that the cedar itself contained substances that destroy microbes. Therefore, you can make a cedar barrel with your own hands, in which drinks will be stored for a very long time and not deteriorate.

Juniper

The inside of the trunk has a red-brown wood, and the sapwood is much lighter, yellowish in color. The wood of this tree is characterized by density, strength and heavy weight, moreover, it is very convenient in processing - it is well cut, does not crack.

Pine wood

It has average indicators - low hardness and medium strength, high elasticity, bends well. Due to the specific resinous smell, food products are not stored in pine barrels.

How to make a barrel at home

The question of how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands worries many artisans who would like to master new secrets of working with wood.

For the manufacture of cooperage products, rivets or frets are used. These are rectangular wooden boards obtained by sawing a butt or tree trunk into separate parts. Another way is to split decks or logs.

Sawn frets are very durable. Stubbed ones are harder to make. The most important thing is to be able to split the chock so that the rivets are clean and even, and there is little waste of wood chips left.

To make a wooden barrel with your own hands, you need to correctly split the wooden block in the direction of the radius, it is advisable to get into the core. If the ax hit a little to the left or to the right of the core, then the cleavage line is called tangential. In this direction, almost all tree species are pricked much harder.

For the manufacture of rivets, ordinary chopping blocks will also go. Of these, you need to choose only those where the layers are located along, and not across. The finished frets are dried and neatly folded.

How to make hoops for screed

Iron hoops have been used for a very long time. Initially, they pulled buckets, consisting of sixteen rivets. Moreover, for the fortress they were additionally pierced with nails.

Currently, hoops are cut from strong sheet steel, then blacksmiths decorate them with all sorts of stamped designs. Finished hoops are coated with bituminous varnish or drying oil. If the drying oil layer is dried with a blowtorch, a beautiful light brown color will be obtained.

How to assemble a conical barrel base

First, we will try to connect the prepared side rivets and temporarily pull them together with permanent hoops. To do this, attach two or three initial rivets to one of the hoops (it is better to take a small diameter). Gently holding each inserted board with your hand, fill the entire space with the missing rivets. Be especially careful when inserting the last rivet. It may turn out that there is not enough space left for her. Take it and cut it a little, evenly attaching it to the rest of the rivets. This work is usually done with two or three assistants.

Barrel assembly scheme:

With the help of a hammer and a wooden drift, you need to upset the hoop so that it sits tightly on the base of the barrel. A hoop of a larger diameter is also upset.

The last operation is the installation of the bottom. It is carefully placed in the groove, the barrel is turned over and a large hoop is fixed. If the connection turned out to be strong and reliable, then temporary hoops are changed to permanent ones.

Now you can imagine how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, using only the material that everyone has on the farm.

People involved in the production of their own wines, or even simply pickling cucumbers, know very well that there is no better container than a wooden barrel. Why? Firstly, wood is an environmentally friendly material, and secondly, wines contain alcohol, which means that by interacting with synthetic materials- plastic or nylon, it can dissolve the chemical composition of the container, and it will mix with the components of the wine.

The production process of an oak barrel is not complicated, but it requires strict adherence to the instructions, accuracy and care.

Buying a barrel is not a problem, but if there is a desire and the owner of a home wine factory cares about quality, then a wooden barrel with his own hands will be the main proof that wine and cognac are made using right technology. In addition, the manufacture of wooden barrels is a laborious and long process, but without wisdom.

Stages of work

Oak, ash and cherry are considered the most suitable trees for barrel production.

It is well known that the most reliable material for the manufacture of wooden barrels will be oak. It is suitable for both wines and cognacs, as well as for pickles. Oak is a natural antiseptic, nitrous and mold will not occur there. But if this is a problem, you can change oak for cherry or ash - these trees contain hydrocyanic acid, which will also prevent pathogens from developing, although their properties are weaker than those of oak. There is no need to be afraid that acid will get into the products: firstly, the barrel is thoroughly soaked before filling the wines, and secondly, a certain percentage of hydrocyanic acid is contained in the wines themselves, it is not dangerous to the body.

Wood calculation. Boards, called riveting, have biconvex sides to give the cooperage product a convexity. To make them like this, you need to take the lower part of the tree trunk and split it with a semblance of chopping firewood. If it is carefully cut, the natural integrity of the fibers will be violated, which is bad for such a product. You should not immediately start curly sawing - the logs need to be dried for 2 months. And dry not under the scorching sun, but in a dark, cool room.

The processing of logs for future barrels is done using a planer. Giving them the desired shape, the top and bottom must be made thicker than the middle. How much - the owner will decide. Usually it is 1.5 cm. The movements of the planer intensify towards the middle of the log, then you can get the same shape as in classic barrels. Basically, barrels can be given any shape - pot-bellied, deck, trapezoidal. The main thing is to do everything right.

Preparation of fastening hoops. They can be both iron and wooden. Wooden ones have advantages in beauty, corrosion protection, but they are not as durable as iron ones, and it will be important for the owner of the wine cellar to preserve wines and barrels, including from mechanical damage. Therefore, iron is preferable. So, stainless steel is cut into strips, for better bonding it can be forged at the junction with each other. After that, holes for nails are punched at the ends, which will play the role of rivets.

Stuffing finished hoops and preparing the skeleton. Three prepared boards are hooked to small hoops with the help of clamps. You need to place them at the same distance from each other. If the calculation was correct, the remaining boards will fit back to back. After full insertion, using a hammer and a nozzle, the hoops should be upset until the moment when they can no longer be removed. By tapping from opposite ends, you can achieve a good effect.

But you can’t overdo it: the boards cooked in a long way will crack, the process will have to be started anew. Also, prepared dies can crack from prolonged drying. This prepares one edge of the barrel. A hoop of a larger diameter must be put on immediately after the first edge, using a hammer. Now it's the turn of the second edge: the workpiece is steamed for a long time before mounting the second end. This is done so that the tree becomes soft and pliable. After that, the workpiece is turned over with the open side up and a rope is thrown over the steamed tree, which is twisted so that the ends of the rivets come together. Without releasing the rope, you need to put on a hoop. Such work is not done alone - someone twists the rope, and someone puts on a hoop.

Shutdown

When the frame is ready, it is hardened.

There are many ways, mainly roasting. At the same time, the smell and astringency of the burnt wood will be transferred to the wine, which will also be appreciated. This is done as follows: inside, on the side of the finished skeleton, they put shavings of a fruit tree - preferably a cherry. Ignite and slowly roll from side to side for even smoldering. It is not necessary to make fires inside the workpiece; out of inexperience, you can burn the product. You can not use any liquids for ignition - they have in their composition chemical elements that the tree will absorb. You can use a blowtorch, but with caution - a strong fire can leave unnoticed smoldering in the core, causing the product to burn.

The final stage of creating a barrel is its grinding from the outside, drilling holes for the bay and cutting a gutter for the bottoms.

Further, the barrel manufacturing process is as follows: the workpiece is processed with a tool - uneven ends are cut off, polished from the outside, a hole is drilled for the bay and gutters for the bottoms are cut. The bottoms of the barrels are two circles carved from the likeness of shields. Shields are prepared as follows: boards are overlapped and fastened with additional brackets. Circles are sharpened so that their edges go into a bevel. It is necessary to accurately calculate the diameter of the bottoms. This is done after the final assembly of the skeleton, because this cannot be done right away. Then the bottoms are inserted by loosening the extreme hoops. After inserting one, you need to fill the hoop again, then do the same with the second bottom.

Leak test. Naturally, the barrel is tested with a liquid, that is, water. It will leak for the first time until the tree swells. Time is allotted for the barrel to stop leaking, no more than an hour. If it still flows, you need to find a gap and close it. Coopers use reed stalks for such purposes. They are plugged between the rivets with a sharp and thin object, for example, a knife. In addition, you can cover the barrel from the outside - with wax. Only you need to take really bee - products should not be with chemistry.

After the manufacture of the barrel is almost completed - it is tempered, fired and checked for leaks, it is steamed or allowed to settle with water so that all extraneous odors that wine can take over from the wood are gone. You can treat the inner surface of the barrel with hydrogen peroxide or potassium permanganate.

Summarizing

It is not difficult to make a barrel with your own hands if you carefully follow the recommendations. Caring for it is extremely simple - you need to steam or boil it regularly, and then dry it very carefully if its use is delayed.

One more important rule: if the barrel is intended for liquid products - brines, alcohol or water, then it must not be left dry for a long time. If it is used for storing dry products, then it cannot be wetted.

The barrel in our time not only has a practical function. Today, for storing liquids or something else, they are used in warehouses, in wine cellars and so on. AT decorative purposes they have been made relatively recently. With skillful processing, they can be used for decoration. garden plot, as well as in the form of furniture: chairs, tables, bar counters, etc.

Even a well-worn barrel can be restored and used for other purposes. For this, of course, you need a fair amount of imagination. You also need to take into account its condition so that the material is not too dry from time to time, otherwise all efforts will come to naught in the very first time of its operation. There are actually quite a few ideas on how to turn such a container into something more functional or beautiful. For example, in the garden you can break a mini-flower bed on it, and on several levels. Or make interesting table or bench. You can even organize a fountain in them, only it will not last long if the wood is not properly processed: under the influence of water, it can quickly lose both its aesthetic appearance and strength. Some craftsmen adapt the barrel for a washbasin: for this, a sink is inserted into the upper part, and a pipe is installed inside the barrel.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands

Before you start making a barrel with your own hands, you need to decide on the material. Usually used for this purpose? do-it-yourself barrel

Before you mount the barrel, you must first make the frets. These are wooden boards that are sawn from a tree trunk. They can also be made by splitting wooden blocks. Sawn, as a rule, are stronger than chipped because it is not always possible to split the log correctly, and because of this, part of the strength may be lost.

It has long been customary to fasten the frets into a single structure using metal hoops, which are made of durable sheet steel. To make the barrel even more durable, you can additionally nail them. The number of hoops depends on the height of the barrel, but, as a rule, there are at least three of them.

The last stage is the installation of the bottom. After it is installed on the owl, a hoop is put on for fixing, which is also additionally nailed for greater strength.

How to make a bar at home from an old wooden barrel

In fact, there are a lot of options for barrel minibars. It can be a variant with a front door, and opening from the top, and with an open interior space with shelves for storing drinks. Which one is considered the best is hard to say. It all depends on taste preferences.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a bar from a barrel, it is necessary to clean the old wood. This must be done both inside and out. Before that, you need to remove all hoops, except for the one that holds the bottom. They then put on quite simply, and you can move them down to the desired level with a hammer. Then the edges are aligned on the side of the bottom, on the other side. We leave one part open for now. Next, the hoops are processed special composition so that later the metal does not rust. If you need a front hole, mark the location and cut it out.

People who are engaged in the production of wine, cognac and other alcoholic beverages need huge vessels to age the product. A wonderful option is an oak barrel, you can buy it or make it yourself. Quite often the question arises, how to make an oak barrel with your own hands? Let's take a closer look at the manufacturing process.

Do-it-yourself oak barrel at home is a great solution.

For example, take a large barrel with a volume of 25 liters. Where to start the process? The initial stage in the manufacture of a barrel is the preparation of material. It is necessary to choose a suitable basis in the spring.

Now you can start making individual parts for the barrel, the first thing you need to do is riveting. Perhaps the most difficult thing is to split the harvested wood into riveting so that there is practically no waste.

The split is produced in two directions:

• Radial (the split is carried out on the core of the deck itself)
• Tangential direction (core not affected)

The shape of the staves will depend on the type of barrel. Well, now you can remove the pinned rivets to a dark and cold place (for example, a basement) and fill it with sawdust from above. Throughout the summer, the wood should dry. In the fall, you can safely do the manufacture of a barrel.

Hoop

The hoop allows you to collect all the prepared staves for the barrel into one. A regular barrel should have 4 hoops. Two of them are located in the center of the barrel, these are fart hoops, those that are on the edges are morning hoops. If the barrel is quite large, there may be additional hoops between the extreme and middle ones, they are called neck hoops. It is advisable to make hoops from stainless steel, since iron, although durable, quickly rusts.

The thickness of the hoop for a barrel of 25 liters should be 1.5 mm, and the width should be about 3 - 3.5 cm. The larger the volume of the barrel, the wider the hoop.

In order to make a hoop, it is necessary to cut strips of the required sizes from steel. At the ends of the strips, you need to punch holes and fasten them with special rivets. In order to make the hoop easier to put on, one edge should be forged.

Assembly

The assembly of the barrel begins with the smallest hoop, 3 rivets are inserted into it, fixed, then the rest are added, then a larger hoop is placed on the rivets. Then all the elements need to be closed more tightly, this can be done with a hammer.

Bottom making

The bottom can be made using whole piece wood base, or wide boards. In order for the bottom to be attached to the barrel, you need to slightly loosen the hoops at the bottom, slightly lifting them up. After that, the bottom is placed inside the barrel, and the hoops are lowered into place. The barrel is ready!

So, making oak barrels with your own hands takes a significant amount of time, but you can be sure of the quality of the product, as well as save money.

This information from the site should be placed with a link from the source:

The extent to which the cooper trade was closely connected with the life of the people can also be judged by proverbs and sayings. So, they said about the insufficient satisfaction of the spiritual needs of a person: “A person is not a barrel, you can’t pour it, but you can’t plug it with a nail.” Or about a dying person: “A person is not a barrel, you can’t assemble it by frets, you can’t tie it with hoops.” At the same time, wanting to emphasize the spiritual poverty of someone’s human nature, emptiness, worthlessness, they said: “I ring a lot in an empty barrel”; "Fat off, barrel barrel"; “Damn the barrels” (an ugly drinking bout began).

In our time, the cooper trade, once flourishing, in the individual workshop few people are engaged, although the demand for cooper's dishes is considerable. Yes, this is understandable. Barrel products, diverse in shape and size, in purpose and application, and even in artistic performance, finds the widest use. It is used for pickling and salting, for winemaking and brewing, for storing all kinds of food and non-food products.

Here is an excerpt from an old book on cooperage that testifies to the spread of this business in our country at the beginning of the 20th century: “Cooperage is one of the largest branches of handicraft industry in Russia. It is difficult to find such a corner in the provinces that have forests, where the peasants were not engaged in dressing this or that wooden utensil. Bocharstvo has been carried out since time immemorial and passes from generation to generation: from grandfather to father and from father to son, delivering a hefty income, which is a great help to the peasant in his household.
So, the reader has already guessed that it is worth doing cooper production if there is a forest. But before we talk about raw materials, let's dwell on some general concepts.

Barrel and its components

Of all cooperage products, there was, is and remains the most common barrel, which most often happens with a convex skeleton. To create a wooden barrel, riveting boards, or frets, are used. Of these, in turn, form three sets. For the manufacture of the first main set, intended for the side wall, or the skeleton of the barrel, curved long and narrow planks-riveting are used. The other two sets are bottoms, or bottoms, of a flat shape, for the most part rounded. In order for the bottoms to be kept in frets, a fold is chosen at both ends at the latter, called the chime groove, or simply the chime. It includes cross boards that make up the bottom. The side planks themselves (riveting, frets) are planed along the side faces so evenly that they fit very tightly to each other. This snug fit is helped by the hoops tightening them - iron or wood.

Barrel, according to V.I. Dahl (from “barrelled”, “barrelled”, “side”), is a knitted hooped wooden vessel consisting of frets, or staves, two dons embedded in chimes, and hoops (Fig. 1) . It is clear that this wooden vessel got its name because of the sides protruding to the sides. By the way, this design feature barrels with a convex core (as opposed to a straight one) gives it special strength. In large barrels, if necessary, a hole is drilled, a tap (screw) is inserted into the latter or plugged with a so-called nail (plug).

Open barrel wares (tubs, buckets, tubs, vats, etc.) have one bottom. Their lateral frames are straight walls located at an acute, right or obtuse angle with respect to the bottom plane.

Dimensions and volume of barrels

The dimensions of the length of the staves and the bottoms of the barrels range from 60 to 180 cm. For staves 180 cm long, take a ridge of the appropriate length (with an increase of 4-5 cm), with a diameter of 40-50 cm. 24 staves 14-16 cm wide should come out of such a ridge and 4 cm thick.

For staves 150 cm long, a ridge is taken, having a diameter of 36-40 cm. The number of staves from such a ridge is 24, the width of each is 10 cm, the thickness is 4 cm.

For rivets with a length of 120 cm and 90 cm, a ridge with a diameter of 28-36 cm is suitable. The width of the rivets is 8 cm, the thickness is 3 cm.
For staves 60 cm long, a ridge is taken with a diameter of 18-26 cm. The width of the resulting rivets will be 6-8 cm, and the thickness will be 1.5-2 cm.

The ridge is marked as shown in Fig. 2, oh. Then every sixth part is divided into four. Rivets of the required sizes are already being made from them, making sure that the sapwood and heartwood are chipped off. In the event that the ridge is larger than what we need to make the appropriate size of rivets, it can be marked in another way - two-row or three-row (Fig. 2.6 ").

For sawing the ridge into rivets, the following schemes can be proposed (Fig. 3,4,5,6).

For the bottoms of 180-cm barrels, there is a ridge with a diameter of 56-60 cm, a length of 94 cm. The width of the boards is 30 cm, the thickness is 3-4 cm.

To make a 40-bucket oak barrel, you need staves 90-120 cm long, 8-14 cm wide, 2-3 cm thick.

For ordinary tubs, rivets are prepared 60-90 cm long, 8-12 cm wide. 4 cm thick.

For small barrels and buckets, staves are made 60-90 cm long, 10 cm wide and 2-3 cm thick.

The most popular barrels are those with a height of 50 and 70 cm. For a more economical consumption of materials, it makes sense to make barrels in pairs. One 50 cm high, the other 70 cm high. In this case, the waste of a larger barrel can serve as blanks for a small one.

Due to the ovoid shape, calculating the volume of the barrel is difficult. However, in practice, coopers have found a way to quickly and fairly accurately calculate this volume. So, to calculate the volume of a barrel, it is necessary to measure its height from one chime to another, as well as diameters in two places: in the central part and at the bottom. It is better to make measurements in decimeters (recall, 1 dm = = 10 cm), since 1 dm3 is equal to 1 liter. Then each measured diameter is squared.

Further, the larger of the obtained numbers is doubled and added to the smaller one. The result is multiplied by the height of the barrel, and then multiplied again by 3.14. The product obtained from multiplication is divided by 12 and the volume of the barrel in liters is obtained. To find out how many buckets are contained in a barrel, its volume in liters is divided by 12 (the usual volume of "one bucket in liters").

For example, let's calculate the volume of a barrel, which has a height of 70 cm (7 dm), a large diameter of 60 cm (6 dm), a small diameter (bottom diameter) of 50 cm (5 dm). Let's do the calculations:

1) 5x5 = 25 dm2;
2) 6x6 = 36 dm2;
3) 36 x2 = 72 dm2;
4) 72 + 25 = 97 dm2;
5) 97 dm2 x7 dm = 679 dm3;
6) 679 dm3x3, 14 = = 2132 dm3;
7) 2132 dm3: 12 = 148 dm3 = = 148 l;
8) 148 liters: 12 = 15 buckets.

In literal terms, the formula for calculating the volume of a barrel will look like this:

(d2 + 2D2) h - p
where: V - barrel capacity in liters;
d - barrel bottom diameter;
D - diameter of the central part of the barrel;
h - barrel height;
l is a constant value of 3.14.

What shape and how many rivets do you need?

To facilitate the search for answers to the questions posed, the cooper draws the circles of the center and bottom of the future barrel on a sheet of cardboard or paper (Fig. 7). And you can draw on a scale of 1:1. Then the calculations are simplified. Or you can draw with a corresponding reduction in 2, 4, 5 times, etc. And then in the calculations it is necessary to take into account this decrease.

So, we know that in our example, the large diameter is 60 cm. The bottom diameter is 50 cm. We draw the corresponding diameters in the drawing. If we know only the diameter of the bottom, then without much difficulty (by adding 1/5 of the bottom diameter) we can get the diameter of the central part of the barrel (ventral). And vice versa. If we know the large diameter, then we can calculate (subtracting 1/6 of the large diameter) the bottom diameter.

There are two ways to set the number of rivets. Or, knowing the width in the center of one given riveting, we line up on the drawing along a large circle required amount given value. Or we divide this circle by a certain number of times (in our case, by 16) and thus find out the width of the widest part of the riveting. Knowing the radius of the large circle (30 cm), using the well-known formula (2tcr), we find the length of this circle: 2x30x3.14 = 188.4 cm.

Now we divide this length by the number of rivets (16). We get 11.7 cm. Rounding this number, we get 12 cm. This will be the width of the central part of the riveting. If on the drawing we draw the corresponding number of radial lines (in our case 16), then here on the drawing we can measure the width of the end of the riveting. It will be approximately 10 cm. That is, the width of the end of the riveting will be less than the width of its central part by 1/6 of the last size.

In our drawing, we can also set the curvature (bulge) of the rivets and the amount of bevel of the side faces. We can increase or decrease the number of rivets. Accordingly, the dimensions of each individual riveting will also change. Note that with a given barrel height of 70 cm from chime to chime, the actual length of the riveting should be approximately 84 cm (taking into account bending and trimming).

The thickness of the riveting in the example taken will be 2 cm (60-50 = 10 cm; 10:5 = 2 cm). Thicker than V is the total volume of a cylindrical product; d - bottom diameter; i is a constant equal to 3.14.

The internal volume of conical cooperage products is calculated using the truncated cone formula:

V = l h (D2 + d2 + Dd).

The letter designations in this formula are the same.
Making staves or frets
Let's talk about making rivets operationally.

1. Cutting staves. For making staves, different types of trees are used. Depending on the purpose of the barrels, the appropriate tree is also chosen. For example, oak barrels are considered the best. They are mainly intended for storing alcohol, cognac, beer, wine, etc. For the manufacture of staves for barrels used in winemaking, white oak is usually used.

By the way, the use of oak barrels in winemaking is very often a necessary technological condition for obtaining the appropriate drink. For example, alcoholic drink rum (strength 45%) is obtained from aged rum alcohol, which occurs as a result of fermentation and distillation of sugar cane juice. Exposure of rum in oak barrels is an indispensable condition for technology.
If they are going to store water in a barrel, then staves for it are made from pine, aspen or spruce. To store milk and dairy products, juniper and linden go to the barrels.

Certain requirements are imposed on the original wood. It should be dry and without defects: without peeling, wormholes, sprouts, curly, overgrown knots, without so-called shells. There is nothing to say about a rotten and broken tree. It is clear that this is not suitable for making barrels.

For the manufacture of rivets, it is best to take wood, chopped along the core layers. Rivets from such boards are the most durable in bending. Usually they are carved with a special cooper's axe. But they make riveting and sawn ones. If the displaced staves are intended for barrels, in which various liquids are then going to be stored, then the sawn staves are used for barrels for bulk materials - sand, flour, etc.

It is best to prick rivets from a tree that has just been cut down. And the most suitable time for harvesting is October and November. Trees are felled to the ground with a saw or an axe. And then they cut it into rivets (Fig. 10). That is, at first the tree is cleared of branches, then it is sawn into ridges in such a way that, according to Alina, they exceed the future riveting by 2-3 cm or even more. Further, the ridges are pricked along the core rays into parts. Sometimes pricked and annual rings. Then the riveting is already convex-concave (Fig. 11). But it is easier to prick along the core rays. It is convenient to prick with a splitting ax, in which the butt is thick, and the wedge is sharp and wide.

Figure 10 shows how this work is done and in what sequence. Depending on the thickness, the ridge is first pricked into halves, then into quarters, into eighths. If possible, they call for sixteenths, etc. From the resulting minimum part of the ridge, sapwood and the core are chipped off - that is, the loosest layers of wood along with the bark using a wedge-shaped curved knife (see Fig. 11). Now the resulting middle part is pricked along the annual rings in two or three. The newly received parts are called gnatin-nik. In width, they try to get 1 cm more than the width of the future riveting (Fig. 12). And now the gnathinnik is cut into rivets. It is clear that the thickness of the workpiece must also exceed the thickness of the future riveting: after all, damp wood, drying out, will be reduced by 12-20%. The cooper knows from experience what size he should make blanks, depending on the species and moisture content of the forest.

We have already seen schemes for single-row, two-row and three-row knockout of ridges. Note that most of the waste is obtained with a single-row knockout. This is clearly seen in Fig. 13 when compared with Fig. 2b, c.

Dry wood is more difficult to prick. Sawing riveting, of course, from dry wood is easier. The rivets are cut in such a way that they are wider in the middle than at the ends (more precisely, they are then cut off). But at the ends their thickness is somewhat greater than in the middle part. The thickening at the ends is necessary for cutting then the chime, that is, the groove under the bottom or bottom. For the correct and faster cutting of rivets, a template is used. As the latter, a ready-made riveting can serve. You can also make a plywood template in the form of a finished riveting.

2. Drying staves. Before finally finishing the rivets, they are dried. Rivets are folded in two crosswise. Natural drying can take up to a year. Therefore, usually the cooper makes himself a supply of staves for this time. Rivets can also be dried in a special dryer - a closed room with heating and air circulation.

If the cooper makes barrels, as they say, for his own needs, then there is no need for a special dryer. Indeed, for the manufacture of one or two barrels, staves can be dried at home over the stove or without it, if the house is not rural and not country. When drying, make sure that the rivets do not crack, especially at the ends. To do this, the latter are smeared with clay or paint, or even sealed with paper. In time, drying can last from one day (for example, on a hot stove) to several days (in a warm room).

3. Processing of rivets. After drying, the boards of both staves and bottoms are processed, that is, they are given exactly the shape that is necessary for the manufacture of barrels.

Usually the rivets are made 2-3 cm longer than necessary, so after drying they are shortened at both ends with a bow saw. If the barrel is made with a concave bottom, then the rivets are not shortened, but cut down, leveled in the saddle, when the barrel is assembled, tied with hoops and a place for the bottom has already been outlined.
Dried and shortened rivets are processed inside and out. Each cooper handles them in his own way. As a result of processing, the rivets must be very precisely fitted to each other.

At the beginning of processing, the riveting is cut off from the outside with a special cooper's ax (it is ground on one side). The cooper works on a block of wood (Fig. 15), holding the riveting with his left hand and squeezing with his right. You can cut not only with an ax, but also with one of the plows or mowers on the cooper's bench (Fig. 16, 17). The movements of the cooper during this work must be unhurried, very prudent, so as not to spoil the riveting with an excessive flake or notch. As a rule, the cooper uses mowers (Fig. 18), gentry (Fig. 19) and plows (Fig. 20) for the subsequent finishing of riveting. The riveting trimmed outside and inside is compared with the template. When the hewing is completed, they begin to plan the riveting. For this purpose, they first take a planer with a convex sole and with an arc-shaped blade. They cut off the rivets, and then slightly smooth the latter with a straight planer, removing small chips. The final finishing and processing of staves is carried out when they are already assembled in a barrel. On fig. 21c shows a stave of the shape required for the manufacture of convex barrels. The form may be as shown in Fig. 21.6", This riveting in the middle is much wider than at the edges. The riveting is beveled to the edges very carefully. This work can be done by eye, but it is better, all the time checking with the template, noting irregularities with a pencil. In performing this work, you need not only accuracy, but also greater accuracy.If it is not there, then when assembling the sides of the rivets may not converge, and then there will be no hassle in fitting.

About internal processing riveting let's say a little more. In this work, first of all, the thickness of the riveting is planned over the entire surface, especially diligently in the necks, that is, at the ends. The thickness is noted using a template - a scriber (Fig. 22). The scriber is applied in the middle of the riveting so that the tip a falls on the very edge of the riveting. Then the template is led along the entire length of the riveting. The tip b will mark the thickness of the neck. It is clear that in the manufacture of barrels of different sizes, the thickness of the staves will also be different. And consequently, the cooper should have several scribers. A riveting with a marked thickness is strengthened in the machine and all excess wood is cut off with an ax or a plow.

The last operation for processing rivets is their jointing. As we have already said, the outlines of the future barrel are directly related to the shape of the riveting. If the side lines of the riveting are straight, then the barrel will turn out to be straight. The most durable and comfortable barrel shape is convex. For her, riveting is made the way it is shown in Fig. 21. That is, her middle is wide, the ends are narrowed. The most common ratio of the middle and ends of the riveting, as we have already noted, is as follows: at the end, the riveting should be 1/6 part narrower or less than the middle. For example, if in the middle the width of the riveting is 12 cm, then at the ends it will be 10 cm. The ratio may be different. Note that the greater the difference between the width in the middle and at the end of the riveting, the steeper the barrel will be in the sides.

The marked ribs of the riveting are planed and jointed with a planer and jointer, fixing it in the ladilla (Fig. 23). And you can perform this operation on a large barrel planer (Fig. 24). When jointing, the ribs are not jointed closely, but a small gap is made. That is, the ribs of the staves are slightly beveled inward. When tightening the barrel with hoops, the existing gap will disappear: the rivets will tightly press against each other.

Bottoms

These parts of the barrel are made from boards that are slightly thicker than staves. The boards are first planed with a planer, and then they are jointed tightly to each other. Depending on the width of the boards and the size of the barrel, the bottom can be knocked together from four, five, six, etc. boards (Fig. 25). It is more convenient to cut planks for the bottom from one board. Since the bottom of the barrel has a round shape, then the composite boards are selected so long that later, when the bottom is rounded, there is less waste (Fig. 26). The bottom boards are planed, as a rule, from the outside. From the inside, either they do not plan at all, or plan only slightly.

hoops

They are made either of iron or wood. Iron bars are made of strip iron, the width of which depends on the size barrels. Most often, the width is 3-4 cm. The ends of the strip iron are superimposed on each other and riveted. Iron hoops are advisable to use for large barrels. For wooden hoops, maple, oak, elm, beech, ash wood is used. Used for wooden hoops and some other durable and flexible tree - juniper, bird cherry, spruce, etc. For hoops, a young tree is chosen, which is pruned every 10-12 years - it is the most flexible. When harvesting wood for hoops, the following tools are used: an ax, a knife, a plow, a pulper, chipping wedges, or columns. It is good to harvest wooden hoops in late autumn or early winter. The bark is not removed from young trees or twigs. Depending on the thickness, each rod is split lengthwise into two halves, into three or four parts.

To split into two plates, it is convenient to use a knife. In other cases, a split wedge made of hard wood is used (Fig. 27). An incision is made in the rod with a knife into three or four parts. Insert the corresponding split wedge into the incision and pull the rod over it. The latter is split into the number of parts we need. Most often, hoops are made from halves of a rod, which are bent around stakes driven into the ground along the ring (Fig. 28). The ends of the hoops lead to stakes. Having fixed the hoops in this way, they are allowed to dry. But it is more convenient to use a special cone-shaped blank for bending the hoops (Fig. 29). The upper part of this blank corresponds to small hoops, the lower part - to large ones. Sometimes blanks are steamed before being bent into hoops. For the convenience of bending, auxiliary tools are used - a pulper or a special bracket driven into the wall or into wooden beam(Fig. 30).

Rivet assembly

After the rivets, bottoms, hoops are prepared, proceed to the assembly of the barrel. First of all, of course, riveting is collected. But, before collecting them, the rivets must, in the words of the coopers, be drawn to each other, that is, adjusted, pressed. They are drawn using a conventional compass, thickness gauge or caliper. Find the middle at the ends of each riveting and mark it. Next, they find the middle along the length of the riveting and, placing the tip of the fixed leg of the compass here, draw an arc at the ends of the riveting with the other end. Having done this operation with all the rivets, the neck line is thus found. It is on it that the chimes will then fall for inserting the bottoms.

After drawing, proceed to the assembly of rivets. First, they take the head or end hoop (the one with which the rivets are pulled together at the ends) and attach a sleeve riveting to it. This is the name of the riveting in which the barrel sleeve will be located, if it is planned. The sleeve or regular first rivet is attached to the hoop with a clamp or a clip similar to a clothespin (Fig. 31).

Let's make a reservation, in the cooper's workshops they begin to collect the skeleton of the barrel with the help of a special working hoop. It is a metal ring made of round or strip iron 10-15 mm thick. The diameter of the working hoop is usually several larger diameter permanent - after all, it is then removed, replacing it with the latter. Depending on the size of the barrel, cooperage workshops have several working hoops that duplicate the permanent ones (head, they are also neck or end, middle, or abdominal). They also use a safety hoop, which, in essence, is the same worker (Fig. 32).

So, let's continue talking about assembling rivets into a frame. Directly opposite the first riveting, they put the widest or main riveting, and between them on the sides at the same distance, one more. Rivets are also fixed with clamps or clamps. Such an arrangement of rivets will help to firmly hold the head hoop, as it were, on four legs. Next, the rest of the rivets are placed in their places. Then the clamps are removed and the head hoop is somewhat upset downwards, at the same time one or two neck hoops and one middle hoop (it is also called abdominal, or fart) are pulled onto the skeleton. It is possible to do this initial work of collecting staves into the skeleton in a different way. That is, by placing two rivets opposite each other, they put a hoop and install other rivets one by one, attaching them with clamps. Of course it's hard to cook riveting, which would fit together, as they say, without a hitch.

It happens that the last riveting is wider than necessary. Then one or two adjacent rivets are reduced in width. Or one wide one is replaced with two narrow rivets. In the event that the diameters of the edges of the barrel do not match, that is, one edge is wider or narrower than the other, two or three or several rivets are moved with their ends in the opposite direction. Thus, equality of diameters is achieved at the upper and lower base of the barrel. When all the rivets are placed, the neck and middle hoops are put on, the frame is turned over and the rivets are pulled together with a gate (Fig. 34) or a rope (Fig. 35). However, the rivets must be tightened carefully so as not to break any of them. It is best to pull together pre-steamed rivets. There are several ways to heat and steam the latter. In large cooper workshops, a specially designed mangal stove with a fire hood is used (Fig. 36). The principle of its operation is clear from the figure. For smaller workshops, we can recommend an iron barbecue grill (Fig. 37). The rivets are unpacked with the help of an iron round furnace with an extension pipe.

A hollow (as coopers call a half-assembled skeleton) is put on this stove. It is heated, and the rivets on the inside are pre-moistened with water. When heated, the rivets are steamed. After that, they become more pliable to bend, less brittle. If the diameter of the barrel is smaller than our round stove, then the hollow is put on the chimney, after removing one knee from it, and then (after placing the hollow), putting it in place. Now the chimney, passing through the hollow of the barrel, will do the work we need for steaming. The hollow itself is placed on bases, covering top and bottom iron lids. Each of the covers is cut out of sheet iron in the form of two semicircles with similar semicircular cutouts for skipping. chimney. Again, the hollow is plentifully sprayed with water before the steaming, and even during it. Water from the heat of the chimney is heated, turning into steam. Well, the latter does its steaming job. How much to steam the rivets - each cooper decides empirically. This operation usually takes 1-2 hours. Rivets that are too steamed become too soft to bend. Under-steamed rivets burst when bent.

The duration of steaming also depends on how much the rivets need to be bent. If we are making a small barrel with a small bend of the staves, then it is not necessary to resort to the help of an iron round furnace. You can also use an iron tagan-chik-brazier. Firewood is lit in the barbecue. When hot smoldering coals are formed, it is placed in the middle of the hollow and the rivets are steamed. Of course, this work is done in some non-residential premises where there is free exchange with outside air. Steamed rivets are pulled together. They do this, as already noted, with the help of puffs and collars or with the help of an ordinary stick and rope (twist). A rope loop is thrown over the neck part of the skeleton and gradually tightened. If the existing staves are thick (as a rule, in large barrels), then not one, but two, or even three puffs are used. Tighten gradually. First, the middle part is pulled together, then the cervical. It is useful to twist the hollow of the barrel first in one direction, then in the other, turning like the steering wheel of a car. This helps to make the rivet screed uniform. Sometimes one or the other riveting sticks out from the general row. It is set with a wooden hammer - a mallet. When the ends of the staves converge tightly enough, hoops begin to catch up on the hollow of the barrel. First large (abdominal), then cervical and head. These hoops are considered working. Permanent hoops are driven onto the barrel after inserting the bottoms.

After the rivets are pulled together on one side of the hollow, it is turned over and the rivets on the other end are tightened. The resulting object with tightened rivets is already rightfully called the skeleton of a barrel, or a bottomless barrel. This frame with working hoops is dried for several days or one to two weeks (depending on the drying conditions: near the stove or on outdoors). Then it is hardened from the inside, that is, it is fired. To do this, chips are kindled in the core. Then the frame is rolled, making sure that the wood does not char, but only slightly warms up, acquiring a golden hue. That's what the old masters did. But it is easier to subject the skeleton to singeing with a blowtorch, observing, of course, the rules fire safety. Firing or hardening is carried out in order for the staves in the frame to become significantly stable in shape. In industrial conditions, hardening is carried out on a manga oven. Small barrels may not be fired. It is enough to dry them at a high temperature, for example, in a Russian oven.

skeletons conical shape(with straight walls) are not hardened at all, since their rivets do not have a bend along the length. After hardening a bottomless barrel, its hoops are upset, since during the firing the wood softened, part of its moisture evaporated, that is, the staves dried out somewhat. The hoops are upset with a hammer and a heel (Fig. 38, 39, 40). During this operation, the rivets are pressed tightly against each other with their ribs, leaving no gaps or gaps. All irregularities are simply crushed. Then they start trimming the protruding ends of the rivets with a bow saw, placing the frame in the saddle (Fig. 41) or on the bench (Fig. 42).

How this alignment is done can be seen from the last figure. We only note that the trimming is carried out so that the surface of the cut is tilted somewhat inside the core. Next, chamfers are removed using a cooper's knife, a plow or a barrel planer. Removal of chamfers or slices is carried out at half the thickness of the ends. Thus, any chipping of the ends of the rivets, their splitting on the inside of the core, is prevented. The ends of the latter after chamfering generally acquire a neat and beautiful view. Here we are once again convinced that beauty and usefulness are inseparable, they are very closely interconnected.

Outside, we do not touch the edges of the ends yet. We leave their finishing for later, when we complete the manufacture of the barrel. Before cutting out the chimes and inserting the bottoms, the skeleton of the barrel is planed inside and out. The fact is that after firing and upsetting the hoops, the edges of neighboring rivets often form protrusions (coopers call them sagging). These sags need to be smoothed out with plows. For external planing, a concave plow, scraper or planer is used, for internal - a convex one.

When planing outside, the hoops are temporarily removed one by one. First from one end of the skeleton, then from the other. Especially carefully align the cervical surface of the skeleton from the inside. Only in this case it is possible to choose the morning groove even both in circumference and in depth. And consequently, the insertion of the bottoms will be dense and durable. Sometimes this stripping of the neck part at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge of the skeleton is limited.

After finishing the stripping, they begin to excavate the morning groove. This operation is performed on a Tuesday morning (Fig. 43). And if the cooper's product is small and cleanliness and correctness of the notch are not required, then the morning groove is chosen with a comb (Fig. 44). In both cases, 3-5 cm recede from the edge.

The morning groove is chosen only on one side if a barrel is prepared that opens from the other end. If it is planned to make a deaf, two-bottom (closed) barrel, then the morning groove is chosen at both ends of the core. To perform this operation, the skeleton of the barrel is placed in the saddle or on a workbench. When dredging the morning groove, the coopers use a simple rule. The depth of the groove should not be more than half the thickness of the ends of the rivets, and the width of the chime should not exceed the thickness of the bottom boards. On the contrary, the width is made somewhat narrower than the thickness of the bottom by about 3-5 mm. So only it will be possible to achieve a tight fit of the bottom in the barrel and prevent possible leakage.

Now let's start making the bottoms. Although this has already been discussed above, we recall that the bottoms are made of riveted planks, different in width, but the same in thickness, tightly fitted and jointed to each other. The thickness of the bottoms usually exceeds the thickness of the side rivets. Depending on the size of the cooper's product, the bottoms can consist of 4-6 planks rallied into one shield. Before joining the boards into a single shield, each of them is carefully planed with a plow, scraper, planer.

Also carefully, and maybe even more carefully, the side faces are footed. After that, the boards are clamped in the slot (Fig. 32). You can pre-rally them with spikes. On the shield formed from the boards, clamped in the slot, a circle of the future bottom is outlined (Fig. 26). Attention - its diameter should exceed the diameter of the barrel in the chime by twice the depth of the chime groove.

Now the extra parts of the boards are sawn off with a bow saw according to the markings made. You can pre-disassemble the shield. And you can make filing it right in the shemil. The outer side of the bottom is again carefully cut off. On the inside, at the bottom, the edges are squeezed. The compass outlines the border of this sloping chamfer. Its width is usually 4-7 cm.

It is necessary to remove this chamfer because the thickness of the bottom boards is greater than the thickness of the carbon monoxide groove. With the chamfer removed, the bottom will go into the chime and, as it goes in, the density of its contact with the carbon monoxide groove will increase. Sometimes the chamfer is also removed from the outside of the bottom. But this chamfer is made small. In its width, it should be less than the depth of the morning groove. Then, after inserting the bottom into the barrel, the chamfer will completely hide.

Boards composing bottom, each has its own name. In the bottom, consisting of 4 boards, the middle two are called the main ones, and the side ones are called cuts. In the bottom of the 6 boards, the two middle ones are also called the main ones, the next two are the side ones, and the extreme ones are still cuts. The prepared bottom is inserted into the chime. It is difficult to insert the whole bottom. More often it is inserted with disassembled planks. First, one or two hoops are removed from the end of the skeleton of the barrel.

The rivets will come apart. Insert the bottom, starting with the extreme (side) planks. The last middle plank is the hardest to insert. Insert it in approximately the following sequence. First, one end is inserted into the morning groove. On the other edge, one or two rivets are bent so that it can be handy to bring the second end of the plank into the chime. When doing this work, they use an auxiliary tool: cap pliers (Fig. 32), tightness (Fig. 45). The rivets will separate somewhat when the bottom is inserted.

They are put into place wooden mallet. Having inserted the bottom at one end of the barrel, they are inserted in the same way at the other. The second bottom is more difficult to insert, since it can no longer be supported from below.

Not one plank at a time, but the whole bottom is inserted in the following order. First, one end edge is inserted into the chime. Next, the staves are widely bred and the whole bottom is inserted into the chime. Before insertion, chimes are often smeared with putty with a spatula (a mixture of red lead or chalk and boiled linseed oil - drying oil). For a tighter fit of the bottom, the so-called barrel grass is also used: rush, reed, etc. This barrel grass is placed in the morning groove with the help of a caulk (Fig. 38). After both bottoms are inserted into the chimes, the rivets are once again tweaked with a wooden hammer, and then they are tightly pulled together with puffs. They complete the work by putting hoops on the ends of the barrel again.

Sometimes, for greater strength, the bottom of the barrel is reinforced with an adjustable plate (Fig. 46) - a heel. It is a plank 15 cm wide and 3-4 cm thick. Its length corresponds to the diameter of the bottom. The heel is fixed across the bottom boards with pins. The latter are driven into the ends of the rivets next to the morning groove. The dowels are made long enough so that the fastening of the heel is reliable. The shape of the dowels does not have to be round. It can be faceted, for example quadrangular. It is even better if it is such, since when the barrel dries, the round pins sometimes fall out, and the faceted ones linger. The number of pins on each side of the heel varies from 4 to 6.

The last final operation for the manufacture of barrels is the stuffing of permanent hoops. Their number is different. Up to 18 wooden hoops or 6-8 iron hoops are stuffed onto a large barrel. For a medium-sized barrel, the usual number of wooden hoops is 14-16 pieces. Their gradation is as follows: 8 cervical (4 hoops from each edge), 6 abdominal (3 hoops in half a barrel). Less often, 10 wooden hoops are placed (6 neck, 4 abdominal; and neck and abdominal hoops are equally distributed on both halves of the barrel). We note right away that a barrel with 10 wooden hoops is less strong than with 14.

Wooden hoops are made from hoop whips. These whips encircle the barrel in the place where the hoop is supposed to be placed. Make appropriate marks on the whip and on the barrel. On the whip, mark the places of notches for knitting the lock (Fig. 47). An allowance of 10-12 cm is left on the lock at both ends of the hoop. The ends themselves are cut obliquely in the form of pointed tongues. Where we had notches, cuts are made half the width of the hoop whip. At one end of the hoop, an incision is made from above, at the other - from below. On the inside of the hoop, in the direction from the cuts to the middle, notches are made 4-5 cm long, gradually fading away. Now knit a lock. Namely: the ends of the hoop are hooked to each other by the protrusions of the cuts, placed in the corresponding recesses. That is, the ends wind up and hide on the inside of the hoop. Often, the hoop at the place where the lock is knitted is braided with willow twigs for strength.

From the barrel, as the reader has already understood, the working hoops are removed, replacing them with permanent ones. This must be done sequentially: first, the abdominal hoops are replaced in one half of the barrel, then the neck hoops are all in the same half, and only then the same is done with the second half of the barrel. The last neck hoops are especially difficult to pull on the skeleton of the barrel. The hoop is brought to the riveting, first from one edge.

Then from the other, while helping yourself with tightness and puffs. They work like this by force. The end of his handle is pressed against the side of the barrel, and the other end of the same handle is pressed by hand. The hoop at this time is slightly stretched by gripping the tightness and, embracing the ends of the rivets, pulls them together. The rivets are gradually inserted one after the other deeper into the hoop.

Sometimes put on a semicircle of the hoop, slip off the staves. To prevent this from happening, the worn half of the hoop is fixed to the edges of the core with small nails. They should be driven in no more than half the thickness of the ends of the rivets. After the wooden hoop is pulled over the barrel, it must be laid down on the intended place.

At the same time, they use a wooden hammer and a heel (Fig. 48). The heel is placed with a deepening of the sole on the edge of the hoop. With hammer blows on the head of the heel, the hoop is brought into place. The latter should be stuffed on the barrel without any distortions, to failure, tightly covering its circumference.

Making iron hoops similar to making wood. The width and thickness of the iron hoops depend on the size of the barrel. Usually take strip iron 3-4 cm wide. Here they also begin work with the measurement of the barrel. Strip iron is cut off with allowances from both ends of the hoop to an overlay of 10-12 cm. The corners of the ends of the hoop are also cut off with scissors or a chisel. These ends are then either welded or riveted. Welding can be done in the same way as coopers did in the old days without welding machine.

In the forge, the ends of the hoop were red-hot. And then, without letting it cool, on the anvil, holding with tongs and hitting with a blacksmith's hammer, the ends were welded. But more often than not, the ends are riveted. They are superimposed on each other and drilled or punched at least two holes, retreating from the edge along the length of the hoop 2 and 6 cm.

Iron hoops are mounted in the same way as wooden hoops. Only at the same time they already use iron and a hammer and a heel. To prevent rust, iron hoops are painted black. oil paint. Ready view wooden product with black stripes hoops - a feast for the eyes.

After fitting the permanent hoops, the barrel is finally finished. They pass with a plow or grinder along the bottoms and sides of the barrel. They cut off the ends of the barrel grass near the chimes, clean the putty that has come out of them. Chamfers are corrected with a scraper. If planned, a spigot hole is drilled in the barrel. The walls of the hole are made either vertical or at an angle.

According to the journal: SAM