Sealant for metal doors: selection and installation. How to seal threaded pipe connections? The disadvantages of such insulation

To give the product and individual parts a rigid shape, various sealants are used - special fabrics and nonwovens. With their help, collars, cuffs, selection, pocket flaps, as well as are usually sealed. In men's and women's jackets, they do not compact individual places, and all the main details entirely.

Even in one product, it is recommended to use seals of different densities and weights, adhesive-based or sewn-in. Sew-in seals are best suited for thin and light fabrics where adhesive or fusible materials can show through from the right side. Most often, non-woven seals are used for most jobs.

How to choose an adhesive seal

Before starting work, check the effect of the seal on a long piece of fabric at least 15 cm wide. Fix with an iron through a free gap squares cut from seals of different densities. You will immediately feel the difference and understand what you need.

How to sew a seal before cutting

Sometimes it is necessary to join parts of a non-woven seal to get the length needed for a cut, or to use the seal more economically. The connecting seam should lie flat, be neat and invisible from the front side of the product.

Trim the edges that need to be joined in a straight line. Place them close together on a strip of lightweight fabric or padding and sew very close to the edge of each piece.

Lay the even edges of the two cuts side by side on a strip of auxiliary fabric and sew with a zigzag seam, capturing both edges. Can be sewn without auxiliary fabric to make the connection less visible.

Lay the edges of the cuts to be sewn one on top of the other. Sew 2 rows with a straight stitch 2 mm apart. Trim off excess material.

Sew with a zigzag stitch along the center of the overlapped edges of the pieces to be joined. Trim off excess material on both sides.

Medium and light density sew-in seals are usually attached to undercut facing parts. But on some parts of the product, such as collars, it is better if the seal is built into the part directly behind the fabric of the upper part of the product and covers the seam allowances.

Heavy non-woven seals are very dense and are sewn in by other methods. Details from a heavy sewn-in seal are cut out without allowances for seams and sewn by hand both to the product and to undercut facing parts.

In order to reduce the thickness along the connecting seams, the seam allowances of the seal are replaced with a light fabric trim, such as organdy. If you use this option, then there will be no need to sew heavy sealant to the seam line by hand. Instead of a thin fabric, a light seal can be used.

1. Hide the seal according to the detail of the selection pattern. Mark the border line on the pattern, departing 3 cm from the neck line and the inner edge. Cut the paper pattern of the pick along the border line. Similarly, cut the undercut facing part of the neck of the back.
2. From organdy, cut out the inlays using the 3 cm cut piece of the pattern. Connect them along the seam lines with a slight allowance. Take the chalk and draw a line along the length of the organdy trim, 1.5 cm from the inside edge.
3. On all parts from the seal, draw a line with chalk, stepping back 1.5 cm from the inner edge. Then, where necessary, connect the parts of the seal by chipping with an overlap and stitching with a zigzag seam.
4. On the right side, trim the seam allowances of the sealant as close to the zigzag stitch as possible. Turn the seal inside out and cut off any other seam allowances. Cut the seal along the line, which is drawn 1.5 cm from the inner edge.
5. Lay the outer edge of the organdy binding over the inner edge of the seal so that the edge of the seal aligns with the chalk line on the organdy trim. Grab with pins across. Zigzag stitch the organdy to the seal.
6. Place the sealant on the edge or on the shelf of the product and pin it off with pins. Use a sewing machine to stitch the seal and fabric along the line drawn in chalk on the organdy inlay, and cut off the seam allowances. Next trim the organdy seam allowance as close to the seam line as possible.

How to make darts on a heavy seal

When sewing coats and jackets, the details of the bodice are completely compacted to give a rigid shape. In such cases, the cut parts of the seal have tucks and it is very important that they lie flat and not bulge. To avoid excess thickness, the tucks are joined end-to-end and zigzag stitched or hand-sewn with a goat seam.

How to sew in a fabric seal

To securely strengthen the knitted seal to the details of the lapels and collars, it is fastened. Short, frequent stitches give volume to the fabric, while long, loose stitches secure the knit seal evenly to the base fabric.

Working from the inside out from top to bottom, make small horizontal stitches to create a series of diagonal stitches on the right side. Work the row in the opposite direction without turning the fabric, forming a herringbone pattern. Continue stitching up and down in rows.

Sew stitches as you would for herringbone stitch, but work from top to bottom on each row. Diagonal quilting is usually wider, and its purpose is to attach the seal to the fabric, and not to give the piece a three-dimensional shape.

How to sew a seal to parts with a fold

Smooth out the line at the fold of the collar piece. Lay the sewn-in seal on the wrong side of the collar along the ironed line and pin with pins. Sew by hand along the fold line with a goat seam, without tightening the thread.

Mark the fold line with cuts and basting. Pin the sewn-in seal with pins on the wrong side of the band. Sew the seal along the fold line with a goat seam.

How to fix the adhesive seal

For adhesive (hot-melt) seals, one of the sides is covered with a special polymeric hot-melt material. They are non-woven and woven, medium and light density. Stretch adhesive seals are best for jerseys. The seal is checked in advance according to the manufacturer's instructions on a piece of fabric.

How to attach adhesive sealant to folded parts

The edge of the adhesive seal is fixed, starting not from the cut of the fabric, but from the fold line. In this case, the fold line must be carefully marked. Short fold lines, such as cuffs and collars, can simply be smoothed over. Long, vertical fold lines on the details of the front are marked with cuts and basting.

Fold the collar piece in half along the fold line, smooth down. Lay the seal from the wrong side on half of the collar piece along the fold line. Smooth.

Although metal entrance doors are cast in special molds, their surfaces are not perfect, especially the edges. door leaf. You can observe a poor fit to the box, slight distortions from different sides, and all this can lead to the penetration of cold air, unnecessary noise, and even unpleasant odors.

To rid the metal door of these shortcomings, it must be pressed tightly against the jamb, and in this the special sealant will be the best assistant to the home mater.

Why seal the door

• From the penetration of excessively cold or hot streams of air masses;
• From the occurrence of the effect of a draft - a dangerous phenomenon that causes ailments in households;
• For a better fit of the canvas to the door frame. This is a kind of latch that protects against the play of locks, and if the door is constantly, as they say, in free flight, then in the end the key will not be able to get into the keyhole.

What basic requirements should a high-quality seal for an iron door meet?

• Possess exceptional hermetic qualities;
• Ensure a smooth running gear - it is good to help opening and closing;
• Provide breathability and be a good door shock absorber;
• Withstand sudden changes in temperature;
• Be elastic and pliable - do not harden or soften from any impact.

On the video - a seal for the entrance metal door:

What is used for the front metal door

There are several types of sealants on the market of building accessories, which differ in the following indicators:

• Type of production material. The most common are products made of rubber cloth, silicone base, plastic mass, foam rubber bands or products made of polyethylene foam material;
• According to the fastening method. This group includes self-adhesive webs, magnetic or pressure, special glue is applied to one side, or installed on additional fasteners.

Usually all material is sold in rolls. running meters, it must be accompanied by detailed instructions for installation.

Most requested types

Which one is suitable for Chinese metal door?

If you have a Chinese front door installed, then at first it will function well, but over time, you will notice some dents around the entire perimeter, and cold air from outside begins to seep through them. This can happen because the metal itself is of poor quality, it does not have the properties of real steel - strength and strength from any physical influences, and the door frame is wrinkled from frequent slamming.

To correct the situation - do not buy a new design of an iron door, first carefully inspect it, measure the perimeter of the door leaf. According to experts, the best insulation there will be a rubber model, you can even with a profile. If you have not found the right material, you can try to purchase a soft, but thin self-adhesive foam tape, it will perfectly wrap around the entire canvas around the perimeter. But for reliability, apply an additional layer of glue to the contours, you can take the same silicone construction, which is intended for such work.

On the video, replacing the seal on the front metal door:

Application (how to glue)

The insulation material itself should be installed on the metal door frame, but not as tightly as possible. This will provide the best fit, which will affect the thermal and sound insulation properties. Moreover, the position installed door does not play a role, in any case, it is possible to glue the insulation exactly along the perimeter of the door jamb.

If you have a rubber or foam version, adhesives such as Moment are suitable, and other types also adhere well to it.

Before starting work, you need to properly degrease the base for the glue, it can be any solvent or alcohol-based product.

On the video, how to glue a rubber seal to a metal door:

First, apply a thin layer, spread it a little with a spatula and leave to dry for 10 minutes. Then do the same with a strip of insulation, degrease and apply a thin adhesive layer, and leave for the same time. As soon as the layer dries a little, you can install a strip around the entire perimeter, and press it hard. Wait for the result for about 15 minutes, and you can lock the door with a key.

Pipelines are an integral part modern life. Hot and cold water is supplied to our dwellings through pipes, gas and heat are supplied. Without pipes, it is impossible to imagine the heating system of an individual residential building. And everywhere the pipes need to be connected to each other. plastic pipes most often welded, copper - soldered, for metal-plastic there are press or compression fittings. But for steel pipes the most common is the threaded connection. Sealing and sealing threaded pipe connections is not an easy task ...

What are the threaded pipe connections?

Threaded connections pipes are used in a wide variety of applications. For connection, a special pipe external thread is cut at the ends of the pipes, and a pipe internal thread is cut on the attached and connecting elements. Internal thread in pipes is not used, since in this case the connecting elements will be inside the pipe and partially block its passage. The most common applications for threaded pipe connections include:

1. Connecting pipe sections to each other. To do this, fittings are used in the form of a coupling - a short piece of pipe with an internal thread of the same diameter on both sides.

2. Transition between pipes of different diameters. Transition fittings are used in the form of a coupling with an internal thread of various diameters or a futorka - parts with internal and external threads of different diameters.

3. Piping rotation without the laborious operation of pipe bending. Fittings-angles with an angle of rotation of 90 degrees are used. Fittings with an angle of rotation of 45 and 30 degrees are much less common and used.

4. Branching and branching of pipes. Fittings in the form of tees and crosses are used.

5. Connection of plumbing, gas and other appliances. Threads are used on pipes and fittings of devices. For devices that require periodic disconnection, American women are used - connecting elements that include a union nut.

6. Silencing unused pipes and outlets various devices. Plugs-plugs and plug-caps are used.

Why do threaded pipe connections need to be sealed?

At first glance, it seems that if you screw the fitting onto the pipe, then it holds tightly and nothing should flow. In fact, this is a misleading impression. Carving is always done with some admission- outer in the direction of decreasing diameter, and inner - in the direction of increasing. Otherwise, there is a chance that it will not work to screw the fitting onto the pipe. You can make the carving very accurate, but at a cost such parts will be golden. Therefore, there is a gap between the pipe and the fitting.

In expensive imported fittings, this gap is a few tenths of a millimeter. Domestic cast-iron fittings, especially large diameter ones, can have a gap of up to a millimeter or more. Such a connection will not just drip, but will flow like a stream. Without threaded joint seals there is no way around it.

However, there are also tapered pipe threads that do not need to be sealed. They provide tightness in a metal-metal pair due to the collapse of the threads when the connection is tightened. But when disassembling a connection with a tapered thread and reassembling it, it will no longer be possible to ensure tightness. Therefore, in pipe connections of domestic water and gas supply systems, heating tapered thread not used.

How and with what to seal pipe joints?

One of the most convenient types of sealing of pipe joints is with the help of gaskets and union nuts. This is often used to connect various appliances to pipes, such as a geyser or plumbing faucet. The branch pipe of the device is without thread, flared. It also has a nut on it. The gasket is placed between the pipe and the nozzle and the union nut is tightened. The main thing in this is don't overdo it, otherwise the gasket can be cut through the edge of the pipe or squeezed out. In this case, there will be no tightness, the gasket will have to be replaced or rearranged again.

Main advantage of such a connection is that the thread surface does not come into contact with the medium flowing in the pipes and is not subject to corrosion. A swivel nut connection is always easy to disassemble, and the only consumable item is a cheap gasket. Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely switch to such connections, since during installation it would be necessary to perform a laborious flaring operation. For steel pipes at home, this is almost impossible.

For standard threaded connections, several types of seals are used: flax on red lead, flax with various sealants and pastes, FUM tape, drying and non-drying sealants, anaerobic sealants.

First of all, let's get acquainted with the established requirements for sealing threaded pipe joints. SNiP 3.05.01-85 "Internal sanitary systems" and a more modern set of rules SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of buildings", entered into force on 01.01.2013, are almost identical in this respect and establish that threaded connections pipes at temperatures up to 105 degrees are sealed FUM tape or linen strand, impregnated with red lead / whitewash mixed with drying oil or special sealing pastes-sealants. At temperatures above 105 degrees, seal should be used asbestos strand together with a linen strand, impregnated with graphite mixed with drying oil.

The set of rules SP 73.13330.2012 is more accommodating than SNiP 3.05.01-85, and also allows the use of "other sealing materials specified in the working documentation." Therefore, unlike twisting when connecting electrical wires, there are no "illegal" ways to seal pipe joints.

Sealing pipe joints with linen strands

Seal threaded connections with flax the oldest and most widespread. For sealing you will need linen- it is sold in plumbing stores and markets. A good linen should be elastic, with thin strands, odorless and free of debris in the strands. Flax itself is not a very good sealing material. It rots on contact with water, burns out in heating systems, does not prevent corrosion of pipes and fittings made of steel and cast iron.

To eliminate these shortcomings, flax is impregnated with various pastes. The simplest paste recommended by SNiP - thickly grated red lead or white on natural drying oil. This pasta is not sold ready-made, you will have to cook it yourself. To do this, pour a little drying oil into the right amount of red lead or white and stir well. The optimal density of the paste is like that of very fatty sour cream. The paste should not flow, but should spread well with a thin layer.

Application red lead due to it chemical properties: it oxidizes iron to FeO oxide, which is insoluble in water and impervious to oxygen. This process is similar to steel burnishing. In everyday life, it is also common to seal joints with flax with any oil paint . Such a seal protects ferrous metals from corrosion worse, but it is also quite reliable.

A common disadvantage of compaction with flax with formulations on drying oil is complexity of disassembly. Often, the connection can be untwisted only after a thorough warm-up with a building hair dryer or blowtorch.

Available now ready-made pastes for impregnating flax such as Unipak (65 grams - 100-120 rubles), Multipak (50 grams - 110-130 rubles) and others. Paste + linen kits are also sold (from 50 rubles), which are enough for a dozen connections. Unipak paste consists of soap, chalk, clay, mineral oil and water, while Multipak is a paraffin oil based compound with mineral fillers. It is clear that they can still protect flax from decay, but steel fittings are unlikely to be protected from corrosion. Therefore, their use can be recommended only with sanitary fittings that are not subject to rust (brass). Some pastes (Gebatout 2, Huskey 400) contain anti-corrosion additives and can also be used with ferrous metals.

You can also use flax with various sealants, such as automotive sealants. But such a seal is not allowed on pipes with drinking water and does not protect ferrous metals from corrosion (especially acidic sealants).

How to wind flax on a thread?

1. 1. A strand 1-2 matches thick is separated from the flax braid. The strand must fit in the groove of the thread. The strand is smoothed, cleaned of debris and small villi. You can twist the strand into a flagellum.
2. 2. The thread is cleaned of dirt and rust. When using pastes, a small amount of paste can be applied to the threads before winding.
3. 3. The strand is wound tightly around the thread in a clockwise direction (for a right-hand thread), starting from the far end of the thread and ending at the end of the pipe. The thread should be completely closed, the flax layer should increase slightly from the edge of the pipe to the end of the thread.
4. 4. Linen is coated with red lead or paste in a circular motion along the winding.
5. 5. The connection is being assembled. In this case, an effort should be felt when wrapping. If the effort is small, then you need to disassemble the connection and rewind a little more flax. If there is too much flax, then it will not be possible to completely tighten the connection or the fitting may crack.
6. 6. The connection must be neat, without flax coming out along the thread and tight.

Sealing pipe joints with FUM tape

Name FUM tapes has become almost a household word. Meanwhile, it's just an abbreviation - "PTFE sealing material". This is indeed a tape fluoroplast- a unique material that operates in the temperature range from -70 to +270 °C, is not wetted by water, fats and organic solvents, resistant to alkalis and acids.

The tape is sold under a variety of trade names at prices ranging from 10 to 300 rubles, depending on the seller, the thickness and width of the tape, and its quantity per roll. The most common tape has a thickness of 0.1 mm, a width of 12-20 mm and a skein length of 10 meters. Such a skein costs 15-25 rubles.

FUM tape can be used to seal threaded connections in hot and cold water supply systems. cold water, gas supply, heating.

The FUM tape is wound in the same way as flax - with interference along the thread, with a slight increase in the layer from the end of the pipe. The number of turns strongly depends on the gap in the connection and is selected empirically. First you need to wrap the thread tightly so that its relief becomes almost invisible. When assembling the connection, a significant force should be felt, but the tape should not be squeezed out along the threads. If the connection is twisted by hand, then the tape is small, and you need to rewind everything again with a large number of turns.

In general, the connections on the FUM tape are one of the most capricious. Even an experienced master can have a marriage. common cause marriage serves as an attempt align the connection after tightening pushing it back a little. In no case should you do this, it will almost certainly leak. If the connection is twisted (for example, the tap is crooked), then the only correct way out is to disassemble and reassemble with a new winding. Also, do not use FUM tape if the connection is subjected to mechanical stress or vibration.

Sealing pipe connections with sealing thread

Sealing threads are a natural development of fluoroplastic sealing materials and are made of fluoroplastic or polyamide with silicone impregnation. On the market you can find "Tangit Unilok" (20 meters - 150-200 rubles, 160 meters - 450-600 rubles), "Loktite 55" (150 meters - 500-700 rubles), Uniflon 175 (175 meters - 650-800 rubles ), "Record" (50 meters - 150-200 rubles).

It is much easier to work with sealing threads - the thread is wound on a thread, preferably with an overlap of the threads of the thread and the sealing thread. This laying creates a labyrinth seal that effectively prevents leakage. The recommended number of turns of thread, depending on the diameter of the pipe, is indicated in the instructions.

Unlike other sealing materials, the sealing thread allows you to adjust the connection in reverse, it is easy to disassemble after a long time, it can be used with aggressive media and under mechanical stress on the connection, it does not require time to harden. The main disadvantage is the high price of the thread itself.

Sealing threaded pipe connections with anaerobic gels

One of the most modern and technologically advanced methods of thread sealing is anaerobic gels. The main feature of such gels is their ability to polymerize in small gaps between metal parts without air access. At the same time, under normal storage conditions in air, they remain liquid for a long time without changing their properties.

This makes anaerobic gels nearly ideal for sealing pipe threads. During polymerization, a strong, temperature-resistant plastic is formed, which completely fills and seals the threaded gap.

Anaerobic gels are sold under the brand names SantechmasterGel (60 grams - 250-300 rubles), Unitec EASY (50 ml - 500-600 rubles), Loctite 577 (50 ml - 1300-1500 rubles), Loxeal 58-11 (50 ml - 500 rubles). -600 rubles) and others.

Using the anaerobic gel is very simple. Thread cleaned and dried. The gel is applied to the external thread before filling and for 2-3 turns internal thread. After that, the connection is assembled. The setting time is indicated on the packaging, usually 15-30 minutes. Excess gel can be easily removed with a cloth at any time, since the gel does not polymerize in air.

The advantages of anaerobic gels include greater manufacturability and speed of pipe installation, operating pressure not lower than that of the pipe itself, high chemical resistance to various media. It is not recommended to use anaerobic gels with black pipes and fittings. large diameters with a gap in the connection of more than 1 mm, and also use at negative air temperatures due to the extremely slow polymerization.

And in conclusion - a video that illustrates the work with a very whimsical linen seal.

To provide additional sound insulation, any metal doors require the installation of a seal. How to choose and install a quality seal for metal doors this article will tell.

General concept and functions of a seal for a metal door

Sealant - a fitting element of a metal door. The main function of the seal is to protect the room from the ingress of extraneous sounds. Additional functions of the seal:

• protection of the premises from foreign odors;
• thermal protection - prevention of drafts;

• sealing - ensuring a snug fit of the door leaf to door frame.

Consider the basic requirements for a high-quality seal for a metal door:

• the seal must ensure complete tightness, the door protects the room from extraneous noise, moisture, cold air, fine dust particles or strong odors;
• the seal ensures reliable and smooth closing of the door;
• the seal must meet high standards that provide water and air tightness and excellent cushioning properties of a metal door;
• the seal eliminates the sharp unpleasant sounds that a metal door makes when closing; after installing the seal, the door closes softly and silently;
• the seal for a metal door must be resistant to sudden changes in temperature in order to avoid hardening or peeling off;
• the seal should interact well with the door; when closing, there should be no gaps;
• security fire safety: use of rubber contour to trap cold smoke, use of intumescent layer to fill gaps and prevent fire from spreading.

Varieties of seals for a metal door

Depending on the type of material, the seal is divided into:

• rubber,
• silicone,
• polyurethane,
• plastic,
• foam.

The rubber seal for a metal door is characterized by durability and endurance.

Advantages of installing a rubber seal on a metal door:

• high level of air and moisture resistance;
• resistance to prolonged exposure to precipitation, temperature changes, ultraviolet;
• long service life;
• low cost;
• no cracking.

Rubber seals are made of oil-resistant, acid-resistant rubber, which has a food or high-tech quality.

Not inferior to rubber and silicone seals, which are great for metal doors. The advantage of a silicone seal is that silicone does not emit harmful substances and ensures the environmental safety of the home. Silicone does not provoke the appearance of allergies, therefore, such seals are installed on metal doors in children's or medical institutions.

The polyurethane sealant is easily attached to the door, as it has a self-adhesive film on one side. Plastic seals are rarely installed on metal doors, as well as foam rubber. Although the cost of these seals is quite low, the quality characteristics do not allow such seals to be used on a metal door for a long time.

In relation to the design and type of fastening, seals are divided into:

• magnetic seal for metal doors;
• sealant with additional clamping mechanism;
• sealant for metal doors self-adhesive.

The magnetic seal appeared not so long ago, but is increasingly used in the manufacture of metal doors from the manufacturer. Magnetic seals are installed on the doors of the refrigerator or freezer. The principle of operation of the seal is based on the attraction of permanent magnets with the help of attraction poles. A triple circuit of a magnetic seal is installed on metal doors. The first two circuits are located directly on the door, and the third - on the door frame. Magnetic seals have a disadvantage: if there is a strong attraction of magnets, it will be difficult for a child or an elderly person to open such a door, and if there are weak magnets, the door will not meet all the requirements for sealing and soundproofing.

It is better to install a magnetic seal on metal doors that do not have decorative elements, but consist of ordinary metal sheets. The magnetic seal has two components: a soft part and a magnetic insert. The soft part is made of thermoplastic elastomer. Advantages of using thermoplastic elastomer:

• resistance to aging;
• operating temperature from -65 to +90 °C;
• after use, the material is recycled.

1. When choosing a self-adhesive seal, be sure to check the expiration date of the adhesive that is applied to one side of the tape.

2. Do not use foam seals for metal doors. Indeed, as a rule, a metal door is used at the entrance to the room and has the greatest load in terms of the number of openings, in this case the foam rubber will deteriorate very quickly.

3. Before giving preference to a certain sealant, carefully study the information on materials, expiration date and technical features sealant.

4. To check the sealing properties of the seal, press the seal a little, if the material recovers quickly, the seal will provide a good seal.

5. When choosing a seal that requires additional gluing, buy a good quality silicone adhesive.

6. Pay attention to the color of the seal, in most cases it is black, brown or white, but there are exceptions and some companies allow you to choose the color individually for the color of the door.

7. When choosing a seal for an entrance metal door, one should not be guided by the color variety, since the paint significantly affects the quality characteristics of the seal, it is better to choose a standard black seal.

8. The rubber seal should be of medium hardness, too soft material will quickly become unusable, and too hard seal will prevent the door from closing.

9. When choosing a self-adhesive sealant, the sticky side should be covered with fine glass fiber particles.

Rules for selecting a seal for a metal door

Before you buy a seal for metal doors, you should decide on the shape and type of seal. Seals are sold in roll form with an average tape length of 600 cm, for a standard door this seal will be enough.

To choose the right seal, you need to measure the gaps of the metal door. For this procedure, take plasticine, which must be wrapped in polyethylene and inserted into the slot, with the door closed. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure the length of the gap.

For a gap that ranges from 1 to 3 mm, a rectangular-shaped foam rubber, polyethylene foam or polyvinyl chloride sealant is used.

For gaps that exceed 3 mm, rubber seals are used, which are divided into:

• seals with a C-shaped, K-shaped or E-shaped profile - used in three-millimeter gaps;
• A P-shaped or V-shaped seal is used to eliminate a gap with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
• in gaps that exceed 5 mm, an O-shaped or D-shaped seal is installed.

When performing work on replacing the seal, you should tear off a piece of the old seal and pick up a new seal that is as similar in size as possible in the store.

To determine the size of the required sealant, determine the number of layers, and then measure the dimensions of the metal door and determine the perimeter of the door frame, multiply the resulting number by the number of layers. It is better to purchase a seal with a margin.

Installing a seal on a metal door

1. When replacing the seal, carefully clean the surface of the doors from the old seal with fine sandpaper and wash the doors well with acetone or alcohol solution.

2. Metal doors are used at the entrance to the room, so it is advisable to install two or three layers of sealant to ensure more reliable sealing.

3. When installing the seal on front door in an apartment that does not face the street, install two layers of sealant. Lay the first layer on the outer door leaf, and install the second on the door frame.

4. If the seal is installed on a metal door that goes directly to the street, it is better to lay three layers of seal. The first and second circuits are installed on the door frame and the inside of the door, and the third - on the outer surface of the door. Requirements for an external seal for a metal door: resistance to temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, moisture, precipitation, good dimensional stability and tightness.

5. When buying branded doors from the manufacturer, there is a seal on such doors. In the presence of a double porch of the door, the seal is located on each porch.

6. The rubber seal is installed using silicone adhesive. To do this, the sealant is gradually smeared with glue and applied to the surface of the door.

7. When installing the seal on a painted metal door, at least twenty days must pass from the moment of painting.

Installation of a self-adhesive seal

Before replacing the seal, clean the surface of the remnants of the old seal and wipe the doors with an acetone solution.

A self-adhesive seal is even easier to install than a rubber one. For installation, you need to gradually, removing the tape, glue the seal around the perimeter of the door leaf. If the seal begins to stick poorly over time, use glue or sealant for gluing. When replacing the seal, do not use separate pieces, as there is a risk of poor sealing functions by the seal. Pay attention to the sealing of the corners, as in these places wrinkling or poor-quality gluing of the sealant is possible. After complete gluing of the seal, cut off the remnants with scissors.

Overview of manufacturers of seals for a metal door

1. Deventer (Germany)

Peculiarities:

• use of environmentally friendly materials for the manufacture of seals;
• availability of certificates of compliance with international standards;
• excellent recovery properties after compression of the seal;
• the use of a thermoplastic elastomer, which prevents the aging of the seal due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

2. Stomil Sanok (Poland)

Peculiarities:

• high level of wear resistance;
• additional sealing circuit;
• production of a rubber sealant from special microporous rubber;
• resistance to temperature changes from -44 to +66 ° C;
• softness and high elasticity of the seal;
• service life from seven to ten years;
• the seal ensures noiseless closing of the metal door.

3. Akord (Turkey)

Peculiarities:

• service life of 5 years or more;
• harmlessness and environmental friendliness;
• prevention of dust, sound or foreign odors entering the room;
• affordable cost.

4. Welless (Germany)

Peculiarities:

• variety of colors: black, beige, transparent, white, brown, dark brown;
• ensuring maximum density and silent closing of a metal door;
• high performance with temperature changes;
• resistance to chemical influences;
• antitoxicity, involves the use of a sealant in medical institutions.

5 Varnamo (Sweden)

Peculiarities:

• the use of porous rubber for the manufacture of self-adhesive seals;
• a variety of forms of seals: K-shaped, P-shaped and D-shaped;
• minimum service life of seven years;
• ease and simplicity of installation of a sealant;
• rolls are sold in convenient packaging of 6, 16, 24 and 100 meters.

6. Cyclone (Switzerland)

Peculiarities:

• moisture and wind resistance;
• heat resistance from -40 to +60 °C;
• good adhesion of the self-adhesive sealant;
• provides excellent tightness and silent closing of a door.

If you have begun to notice that a draft has appeared in your apartment, or bad smell, this is a signal that a door seal is required. Such a problem definitely does not bypass those people in whose apartment a metal door is installed. For this reason, we suggest that you consider how you can fix or prevent the problem by sealing the door yourself.

Sealant selection and classification

Often, metal doors do not cope with their main role, namely the preservation of heat in the house. Although these doors are insulated, the result often leaves much to be desired. You can choose a special sealant that can solve the problem of drafts and unpleasant odors coming from the entrance. Exists a large number of seals, differing in type and method of application. For example, some are glued around the entire perimeter of the door. If the door has a double porch, then the seal is glued to each of them. At the same time, it is recommended to choose a heater in each individual case individually. So, for example, if you buy a very thick sealant, then it can cause obvious problems. Conversely, a very thin material will not give the desired result.

Seals for metal doors are classified according to several technical characteristics.

1. Material type. It can be foam rubber, plastic, polyethylene foam, rubber, silicone.
2. Design. The seal can be equipped with a clamping metal rail or made from one material.
3. Mounting method and system. Seals are either self-adhesive or self-tapping. As for the latter, special strips can only be installed on wooden doors.

If you have a desire, then the seal can be made independently. To do this, you can use foam rubber, after wrapping it in artificial leather or leatherette.

For metal doors, seals are sold in rolls. One roll can be up to six meters. If the door is standard, then one roll will be enough for sealing. Remember that for metal doors it is best to buy a self-adhesive seal.

Sealant for metal doors

The choice of sealant will directly depend on the size of the gap that needs to be eliminated. For example, if the gap with the door closed is from one to four millimeters, then you can purchase a seal rectangular section, for example, from polyethylene foam, PVC, foam rubber. But in most cases, rubber seals are used for metal doors. They may have different forms, the cross section of which resembles the letters of the Latin alphabet:

• C - the profile is used for those slots that have a thickness of up to three millimeters.
• K - the profile is similar to the first.
• P and V - the profile is able to eliminate gaps with a thickness of three to five millimeters.
• O and D - the profile is mounted in those doors where the gap has a thickness of up to seven millimeters.

Seals are available different colors. This allows you to individually match the color to your door. So, the aesthetics of the doors will not deteriorate in any way. The most common colors are white, black and brown.

Note! According to some studies, the dye can reduce the quality of rubber. For this reason, it is best to sacrifice aesthetics and stick on a standard black seal!

The main requirement for all seals is the sealing of the door. Based on this, the seal must meet high standards. The seal must be waterproof and airtight, must provide excellent shock absorption of the door leaf when it is closed and slammed. When closing a metal door, a light and soft click should be heard, and not rattling and noise. Among other things, the sealant should not freeze and harden in the cold. Regardless of the conditions in which it is operated, the sealant must retain its basic characteristics under any circumstances.

Mounting on a metal door

If you have a branded door, then the manufacturer makes a profile in which there is already a specially designated place for laying the seal. From the point of view of tightness, such metal doors are the most reliable. Therefore, when buying them, pay attention to such a detail.

In the event that you do not have the funds for such a door, the seal should be purchased and installed by yourself. Using self-adhesive tape, this is very easy to do. The most important thing is to choose the appropriate thickness. We talked about this above. Gluing the seal is quite simple. Wrap plasticine in polyethylene and place it between the door and the frame. Then close the door tightly and open it. As a result, you will get a finished cast of the required thickness. As for the sealing sticker, do not rush to immediately remove the protective layer from the entire tape. As the film peels off, glue the seal to the frame. At the same time, press it firmly.

Note! In the event that the seal peels off after a few days or weeks, then glue it with Moment glue.

Wooden door seal

For such doors today it is customary to use a variety of floor rails. They allow you to prevent the appearance of drafts or get rid of them altogether. There are several types of them.

• Wedge plank.
• Plastic tube.
• Plastic or metal strips with a brush, etc.

Consider how to properly install them.

Installation of the wedge strip. The plank must be cut to fit the top of the doorway, as well as the sides of the two sides. At the joints, the strips are cut at an angle of 45 °. In places where there are hinges and a door lock, the bar must be cut. Further, she is nailed. All work will not take you much time.

Installation of the outer bar. The bar, as in the first case, is cut strictly according to the dimensions of the doorway. But only now the bar is screwed on with screws. After its installation, a sheet of paper should fit between the closed door and the plank.

As for sealing the bottom of the door, a slightly different technology and method of using slats is used here. The flashing strips are stuffed to the inside front of the door. It should be noted that there are also several types of slats, each of which has distinctive features.

Flat threshold rails. They are made of plastic or aluminum base. On them, in turn, a rubber plate or brush is attached. They can be used for both external and internal doors.

Planks with plastic shield. They prevent moisture from entering the room. In most cases, they are used to seal the outer door.

Combined rails. They consist of a metal bar as well as a nylon brush. The bar is fixed to the threshold, and the brush to the door. The bar on the threshold prevents the penetration of water into the room, as it has a special groove.

So, some features of the installation of such strips.

Installation of a flat threshold bar. Previously, the bar is cut to the width of the doorway. After it is screwed to the bottom of the door. This bar should be as close to the threshold as possible. But it should not interfere with the free opening of doors. Some types of such slats are equipped with special holes for screws, which makes it easy to adjust them.

Installation of a combined plank. In this case, as in the first, the bar and brush are cut off along the width of the threshold. The plank is screwed to the threshold, with the overhanging edge of the plank facing the inside of the door.

As for the installation of the brush, after installation it should exert a slight pressure on the bar. The brush is screwed to the bottom of the door with self-tapping screws.

Mounting the rail on the outer door. Similarly, as in all other cases, the bar is cut to size. The bar should be screwed to the door when closed. It is very important not to use screws that can rust - this can cause the doors to rot.

So, we have considered the main methods of sealing both metal doors and wooden ones. If you know other methods of sealing doors, then write about it in the comments to this article.

Video

Insulation of doors with a seal: