What are door slopes and how to arrange them correctly. How to trim the slopes of the front door: choose how to trim the slopes of the door after installation Finishing the slopes of the front door with a non-standard size
How to trim the slopes of the front door? This question is asked as those who have purchased fresh concrete walls, and those who got an apartment with a "Soviet" renovation. We have found 11 ways. Alas, there are no ideal ones among them - everywhere there are disadvantages.
1. Drywall
One of the most popular and time-consuming ways to finish a doorway. GKL needs not only to be installed, but also putty, and then painted (preferably with water-based acrylic paint) or wallpapered. But in the end, the surface of the slopes will be beautiful and even.
The disadvantages of this option are the fragility of the coating (the wallpaper will peel off and tear, the painted surface will quickly get dirty).
Photo from sdelaidver.ru
2. Plaster
Plastering slopes requires a certain skill. As in the case of drywall, the opening after a rough finish must be puttied, painted or wallpapered (or choose another finishing option).
The disadvantages are the same - the coating will be short-lived, it is difficult to care for it. The disadvantages of plaster are also that working with it is “dirty” and takes a lot of time.
Photo from svoimirukamivdome.ru3. Decorative plaster
A variation of item No. 2. "Decorative" is applied to a pre-plastered surface. If the decorative plaster is textured, then the rough layer does not need to be removed perfectly evenly. You can choose plaster with colored stone chips - it is very durable.
Of the minuses - the high cost of materials, labor-intensive and "dirty" work.
Frame from youtube.com
The adjacent wall can be wallpapered, painted or applied with decorative plaster.
Frame from youtube.com
4. MDF panels
More simple and fast way slope finishes. In addition, the work does not require a lot of materials and tools.
The disadvantage is that MDF panels can only be mounted on narrow slopes. Otherwise, there will be seams between the panels.
Photo from the site stroy-men.ru
5. Laminate
A variation of point No. 4. But - the laminate is suitable for openings of any depth (the seams between the panels will be neat and almost invisible).
Laminate slopes will be inexpensive, but they will also look accordingly.
Photo from strgid.ru
6. Wood
Suitable for those who have an interior hallway - in the appropriate style.
Wood is an eco-friendly, not very expensive material, it is easy to fix it. However, the finished surface needs to be treated. special formulations(for example, varnish), which will need to be updated periodically.
Photo from the site positroika-doma.ru
7. Chipboard panels
Inexpensive, but also outdated way of finishing slopes. It is more often used with large wall thicknesses.
Chipboard panels are easy to maintain, but short-lived (they are afraid of moisture, easily scratched).
Photo from the site stroyday.ru
8. Extras
The option is especially good if there are several doors in the hallway (interior and entrance). In this case, all boxes and slopes can be finished with the same material.
The extensions are relatively easy to install. But the material itself is more expensive than chipboard, laminate and other analogues.
Photo from the site dverivmir.ru
9. PVC panels
Such slopes look very “simple”. But the material is inexpensive, durable, not afraid of moisture, easy to care for. In addition, it is easy to work with it - installation of panels does not require great skill.
Photo from dvervdome.ru
10. Artificial or natural stone
This way of finishing slopes has already gone out of fashion. And it was good for its durability and high wear resistance of the material, ease of installation. Of the minuses - the process of "applying" the stone is lengthy. Another disadvantage is that adjacent walls can only be painted or coated. decorative plaster. Other finishing options (wallpapering, MDF installation or other panels) will require the involvement of repair virtuosos.
Photo from dveridoma.net
11. Tile or mosaic
Slopes made of tiles are very durable, easy to maintain, not afraid of moisture, do not scratch. But sometimes they look a little strange - tiles on vertical surfaces traditionally appear in our bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. Another disadvantage is the complexity and duration of the installation of such slopes.
Photo from dveridoma.net
Do-it-yourself door slopes can be made by any homeowner.
As always, success depends on your ability to hold the tool and, of course, a strict adherence to the nuances of technology.
In addition, looking ahead, let's say the following: slopes are mostly a decorative addition, local finishing of the entrance / interior door, which will hide all attachment points around the perimeter, and its installation can really be completed in 1 day.
The slope serves to give a complete, “marketable” look to the opening and strengthen door frame(entrance / interior).
There are several options for how to make slopes:
- sealing with mortar and plaster;
- gluing the finishing board with the same solution;
- sheathing around the perimeter of the finish with liquid nails or self-tapping screws.
The methods are divided in terms of the formation of the slope: there are all sorts of materials, and the methods of their fastening differ.
Seal the slopes with a solution - simple and reliable in soundproofing.
In addition, such a slope without voids, does not bend, but in terms of design it is “poor”: you can somehow paint it, give it a texture with good plaster and nothing more.
Another thing is installation. finishing material: MDF, laminate, drywall, plastic panels, lamellas - they are very reliable and look great on the outside.
Finishing door slopes is carried out on a metal profile or wooden bars. Such an installation is appropriate if you see that you will have to spend a lot of mortar to seal the voids.
But there is a caveat: you will need to contrive through trial and error in order to fit the slope elements to each other at even angles and at the same time maintain their evenness in the same plane.
Preparatory work
With any slope, the same preparation takes place (see photo):
- the canvas and the door frame are pasted over with masking tape / film to isolate the surfaces from the solution;
- all protruding parts are removed that will interfere with priming and installation of slopes (wiring
- recessed, the protruding part of the finish is rubbed flush with the wall);
- the surface around the input box is completely primed.
To properly make a slope, you need to know its device:
- The 1st layer is always rough: a primer, sometimes polystyrene + a primer for thermal insulation purposes, a layer of plaster or just a piece of moisture-resistant drywall (glued directly onto the plaster);
- 2nd layer - installation of the entrance finish: from simple painting to laying, at least expensive cork.
Processing the opening with plaster
The plaster is used as a rough coating before painting and paneling the doorway.
A cement mortar with sand, sometimes plasticizers for quick drying, for example, the same alabaster, stands behind the plaster.
Putty is applied as a prevention of irregularities.
The technology is:
- For finishing, you need a primer, sand with cement, a spatula, a level, putty, alabaster, a mesh and a brush;
- The surface cleaned from dust and irregularities is covered with soil on concrete, after which it is aged;
- Beacons are placed according to the level: profiles can be held with a mixture, like temporary glue;
- The solution is applied within the lighthouses and distributed with a spatula. After that, it is level with the lighthouses and aged for a whole day;
- Putty will close cracks on the surface;
- The finished surface can be immediately glued with wallpaper or paint.
Types of slope formation
The turn has come to tell and describe the technologies for manufacturing slopes different ways. First, let's talk about how it is formed entrance slope material on top of the solution.
Finishing material on the solution:
- Drywall, MDF, plastic are fixed with cement mortar or glue on a leveled and primed surface - and you're done! The whole point of technology;
- Mark the slope level, then check the entire perimeter for deviations from the vertical level;
- Fill the entire space with mortar so that the final level of the slope is below the level of the primer. When it dries, level it (putty), lightly clean all protruding irregularities with fine-grained sandpaper;
- Apply adhesive to the sloped surfaces and the material itself. Lay them in place of attachment and press down;
- While the solution has not yet taken, check the level of all surfaces and, if necessary, manually correct the material. If there remains a clearance between the sheathing itself and the wall (the surface is uneven), then it can be repaired with a mortar and then adjust this element separately.
It is also possible to mount the slope on the frame.
This is the most common type of slope formation with the participation of the selected topcoat.
How to do this - first a little about the technology, and then specifically for each case:
- Despite the fact that the solution is not used at all, the surface around the front door under the slopes must be primed so that the slopes simply do not fall over time;
- As slopes, mainly slats with an angular cut (45 degrees in the corners) are used;
- The wall is leveled (putty is applied), and with such a condition that the thickness of the slope with the frame will eventually be flush with the surface of the entrance door frame, but will not protrude even a millimeter, which will become immediately noticeable;
- The slope frame is fastened with plastic dowels with impact screws. Along the perimeter, two pairs of input rails (6 pieces in total) are attached, which will be supports for the slopes. After that, the slopes themselves are placed on them and joined.
Laminate
A special case of the above technology, except that the material is different. But each has its own characteristics.
Laminate slopes are durable, easy to clean, do not collect dirt, have a large selection of shades and look noble in appearance.
Installation is done like this:
- we count the amount of material for gluing, make markings and prepare the laminate panels with cuts at an angle of 45 degrees;
- if the opening is larger than the width of the laminate, then the panels are connected by stiffening ribs from an aluminum profile: exactly 4 pieces are cut out, then they are planted with liquid nails to the panels (across the panels);
- so that the slope falls into place flush with the door frame, small strobes can be made under the stiffening ribs;
- the panels are fastened with self-tapping screws on the dowels, after which all the hats must be covered with a lining of decorative rails or a plastic corner.
Plastic
A familiar sandwich panel will easily close the deepest opening.
Installation is easy:
- cut panels to desired dimensions;
- fasten the top with screws as close to the end as possible;
- we also put the sidewalls;
- cut the corners in the miter box at an angle, glue;
- we process all the seams with a transparent sealant, remove the excess.
The simplest, fastest and most inexpensive way. The only “but” is that it is desirable to insulate the openings and seal them with plaster if possible.
If it takes a lot of solution, then fasten wooden slats inside the opening, put foam, fill with mounting foam.
Drywall
A versatile finishing material that is used on almost any surface, even walls and partitions are made from it.
The installation is like this:
- We cut out three panels from the sheet - the top and two sidewalls;
- Wet the cleaned original surface and apply it with a snake mounting foam;
- We glue our panels: we press the panel strongly against the foam, immediately remove it, wait 3 minutes and put it on the foam again. So the foam will have time to thicken and securely grab;
- We remove excess foam with a knife, putty will close the corners. We subsequently glue a plastic corner on them.
MDF
Frequently used finishing material.
Installation is a little more difficult:
- We get rid of the gaps between the wall and the door frame with mounting foam;
- We process the surface under MDF with a primer;
- We apply plaster on the beacons on the dowels;
- Alternatively putty for the facade will help out. In this case, the mounting profile is placed in a solution that has not yet hardened;
- The basis for MDF slopes is a solution: when it dries, it must be treated with soil;
- From MDF panels, 2 sidewalls and 1 top of the opening are cut to size. Glue is applied to the top of the slope and the part is pressed against it until the panel adheres to the glue;
- All gaps between the panels and the wall are sealed with a plastic corner on liquid nails.
original ideas
In addition to the usual plastic, drywall, laminate, there are other finishing options:
- If there are extra strips of wallpaper, then they can also be used for decoration: wallpaper is glued to a simple corner. The only drawback is low strength;
- Decorative stone: from panels of thin artificial stone, which is attached with special glue;
- Ceramic tile: a rare participant in the technology, but with the proper ability to cut the tile correctly according to the pattern, it creates an excellent effect;
- From cork panels: expensive, but combined with laminate and parquet on the floor.
Slopes can be made independently (instructions with photos and videos to help). The main thing is to observe a number of nuances, the absolute evenness of the walls and the accuracy of fixing the material.
Do not neglect the size calculations, taking into account errors in the form of material thickness and fasteners.
It may seem, they say, “to do by eye - and everything is so simple, nailed, twisted, set”, but it’s better to do as in the proverb “measure seven times - cut once”.
After installing the door between the wall and the door frame, most often there are considerable gaps, and appearance the walls located next to the box are far from ideal. To solve these problems, they came up with slopes on the doors. The name went, probably due to the fact that adjoining small sections of the wall are usually made at an angle - they are beveled. Do-it-yourself door slope installation is not the most tricky thing in repair and construction, but knowledge of the technology and the sequence of actions will allow you to avoid mistakes.
What are slopes made of?
Plastering is considered a classic for finishing a doorway. This method is still relevant today. The slopes are reliable, they are difficult to damage, there are many ways to finish: paint, stick wallpaper, attach any other finishing material. The disadvantages include only high labor intensity. There is one more thing: it will be difficult to achieve a perfectly smooth surface without skills, but you can level it for wallpapering.
A well-plastered slope is beautiful and durable
You can quickly and without any problems. There are even special "L"-shaped profiles. The installation of the slope in this case comes down to the correct marking and its inconspicuous, but reliable fastening. There is a little more work if slopes are installed from laminated or veneered chipboard:
- The cut parts of the slopes are attached to the wall. There are three ways: on the mounting foam and liquid nails, on the plaster mortar or on the assembled frame.
- Foam is applied to the gaps between the wall and the material according to special rules.
- The platband is installed.
The finish of these materials is quite rigid, has a very attractive appearance. The installation technology is simple and does not require almost any special knowledge and skills. The result is at least good.
Another simple but popular method is. Even without skills, installing door slopes with your own hands from this material allows you to achieve good results: all work is elementary. It just takes effort.
There is another inexpensive way to decorate the slopes on the door - from plastic. If you have the skill to work with such material, you will not have any questions. The only disadvantage of this finish: low strength.
So there are many options for designing a doorway. Usually choose the one that best suits the design of the entire room.
Slopes on the front door
Of all the above materials for finishing the slopes of the front door, only plastering and finishing with MDF or laminated chipboard can be recommended. These materials have a sufficient margin of safety to withstand the repeated impacts at the entrance are simply inevitable.
If we talk about finishing the front door from the outside, then there is essentially one option - only sealing the slopes with plaster. Another thing is that it can be fixed on it ceramic tiles, finishing stone, other similar materials. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:
Internal slopes on the front door can also be made of MDF and chipboard. They can be installed on foam and liquid nails, or you can use guide bars. The installation of MDF door slopes is described in detail in the article “. It is better not to use other materials for the front door: they are fragile, brittle.
Slopes for interior doors
Any material can be used to design door slopes between rooms. It is desirable only to arrange all the openings facing the same room in the same way, or very close in style.
In living rooms, an MDF slope looks good, especially if the finish is matched to match. door leaf and the same colors are present in the interior. Plaster slopes, painted or covered with wallpaper, are also popular. Classic - always relevant.
In the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can decorate the slope with ceramic tiles laid on the walls. Then the finishing technology is similar to that described above, only on last step glue the tiles on the appropriate glue.
If the room is finished with plastic panels, or metal-plastic doors are installed, the doorway can also be decorated with this material. The installation of plastic door slopes begins, as usual, with preparation: everything that can fall off is removed, dust is cleaned off. The next step is simple:
- A starting profile is installed to the jamb along the perimeter of the door frame.
- On the adjoining wall, dowels are screwed at a certain distance.
- A special “L”-shaped slope made of plastic is inserted into the starting profile.
- It is pressed against the wall, because of which the dowels go into special grooves.
If the room was finished with drywall, then it is logical to decorate the doors with the same material. This can be done in several ways. Quick and easy - stick on mounting foam. This method is only suitable if the slopes are more or less even. For curved slopes, it will be necessary to assemble the frame, and fasten drywall to it with self-tapping screws. Read more.
Creating door reveals is ideal for finishing any opening - including exterior and interior doors. These works are the same milestone repair, as well as the process of installing the canvas itself. And the final picture, which can affect the entire interior of the room, largely depends on their quality. In order to do the installation of door slopes with your own hands, you should have certain skills, as well as decide on the implementation methodology and construction materials.
Structure classification
There are several options for how to make a door slope with your own hands, which are to use:
- drywall suitable for surface finishing, the leveling of which will require a large number of solution. With the help of plasterboard sheets, the surface is easily leveled and, at the request of the contractor or customer, is covered with paint or plastered;
- plasters, used in cases where it is possible to level the surface by applying a layer of mortar with a thickness of not more than 30 mm. This option is not the fastest, but profitable and simple;
- laminate, which is suitable for doors or arches already finished with this material. Finishing the door slopes with laminated chipboard is not suitable for rooms with high humidity and, moreover, for external doors;
- MDF panels, resistant to both temperature extremes and high humidity, due to which it is suitable for any doors;
- tree, a material that is not cheap, but has good aesthetic and strength characteristics. For finishing the slope of the doorway when performing repair work different class (economy, standard or exclusive), you should use both ordinary wood and valuable breeds tree.
Choosing the option with do-it-yourself door slopes with decorative stone or tiles is a rare, but also a viable option. It is used mainly for the front doors of mansions. A decorative stone looks especially advantageous in combination with a porch, terrace or path to the house made of the same material.
The variety of ways to finish the door slopes allows you to choose the right option for any conditions. One of the main selection criteria is the correspondence of the decorative characteristics of the structure to the overall interior. If several options are suitable for the design of the room, they choose the one that best suits the tastes and financial capabilities of the homeowner.
Do-it-yourself door slopes
During the installation process, surface preparation is required. And only then apply the chosen method of finishing. And it, first of all, depends on what kind of doors we are talking about - installed between rooms or entrance doors.
Slope preparation
In most cases, the surface is pre-levelled. To do this, the contractor must first prepare the necessary materials - plaster, primer, starting putty, construction mixer (or a suitable nozzle for a drill), roller, mesh, masking tape and bucket. In addition, in order to prepare for finishing, the slope must first be completely cleaned of old finishing materials (such as mounting foam or plaster) and dirt. And then go to the alignment steps, which can be found on the network and even see the video of this process:
- Prime the surface;
- in a suitable container;
- Apply the mortar, leveling it to the desired thickness. The adhesion of the material can be improved by spraying the concrete with water. And, if the wall was badly damaged when installing the door, you should use a special mesh;
- using corners;
- Wipe the dried layer of the solution until cracks and irregularities disappear;
- Re-primer;
- Bring the surface to a normal state, using already
- Having leveled the surface, proceed to the final finish - painting (if the easiest option is chosen), wallpapering, laying tiles, installing drywall or panels.
Slopes for entrance doors
If we consider the options suitable for external doors, it is worth noting the top three, which have a sufficient margin of safety and withstand constant closing vibrations. Internal slopes are finished with laminated chipboard or MDF. Panels are installed using mounting foam, liquid nails or using guide rails.
The exterior finish of the door is most often done using plaster, on which tiles or stone can be attached. The beginning of the installation does not differ from the leveling of the surface, however, it ends with the fixing of the finishing material with glue. If additional finishing is not expected, the plaster is painted.
Slopes for doors between rooms
Slope finishing work interior doors DIY can be done using almost any material. The main thing is to observe the correspondence between the styles of structures facing the same room. MDF slopes look good in the living room - especially if you pick them up to match the interior. Suitable for decoration and slopes with wallpapering, visually continuing the walls and increasing the size of the room.
The bathrooms use ceramic tiles - again the same ones that were laid on the walls. Ceramic is glued to a flat surface. If the room is finished with plastic or metal-plastic panels, you should choose the same materials for slopes. The same applies to rooms, the enclosing structures in which are finished with drywall.
Among the options suitable for slopes of interior doors, panel and plasterboard structures are most often used. In addition to the fact that they look more profitable, the cost of such a design will be more profitable than for wood and tile options. And the repair time is less compared to
Paneling
Way how to do door slopes from MDF panels, suitable for any door and consists in installing wooden frame, slats for which are purchased in advance and treated with an antiseptic. In the process of choosing a material, the main thing is not to make a mistake with the dimensions. It should be noted that the thickness of each plank in the process increases by the size of the plate attached to it;
Paneling begins with the selection necessary tools and materials:
- panels with which finishing is carried out;
- wooden bars;
- self-tapping screws;
- screwdriver;
- roulette and level;
- hacksaws.
The technology for finishing the slopes of interior doors with their own hands from MDF is as follows:
- Removal of peeling paint and old plaster;
- Primer surface, which does not need to be leveled;
- Fastening the frame from the bars according to the level with the alignment of the distortions on the walls (using boards or pieces of plywood);
- Mineral insulation gasket (especially important for the outer door);
- Cutting panels according to the size of the trimmed slopes, fitting or fitting.
The final stage of work is to fix the material on the frame. If self-tapping screws are used for fastening, they are screwed with a slight depth into the material and. Although when installing MDF panels, liquid nails are most often used, which are pointwise applied to the guides.
Approximately the same technique is also suitable for installation as a do-it-yourself laminate finish for interior doors. Work begins with fixing the bottom board with self-tapping screws and fixing the next three to the lock. The fifth board is also installed using fasteners or liquid nails, after which the frequency continues. For a horizontal slope, each plank is fixed. Corners between walls and slopes are finished decorative corners or cash.
Drywall constructions
The option of installing slopes for interior doors made of plasterboard sheets is suitable if the enclosing structures of the room are finished with the same material, and leveling the surface with only putty will require a significant amount of material. The choice of the two possible options is influenced, first of all, by the length and width of the slope.
So, for small assembly seams and minimal damage when installing the door, the first method is used:
- Elements are cut out of the drywall sheet, taking into account the angle of inclination;
- The surface of the slopes is cleaned and primed;
- Dry mix for gluing drywall is diluted with water according to the instructions;
- The finished substance is applied in a thin continuous layer on the element that needs to be pressed against the prepared slope;
- Panels are installed, starting from the side surfaces;
- After installation, the cut parts are fixed with masking tape.
The glue dries, after which the seams need to be puttied and cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. And after another layer of primer is applied to the slope, it is considered completely ready. Additional trim can be installed on top of the drywall.
No matter how chic the door you set for yourself, and without a decent frame, it will look, to put it mildly, unpresentable. Finishing the slopes of the front door is no less important than its installation. But often a person has no idea how to finish the slopes of the front door. Let's talk about how to improve the doorway, discuss the pros and cons of the most popular materials.
Often, it is the slopes that are responsible for the presentable appearance of the doorway.
Before you decorate the doorway, let's figure out what the openings of the entrance doors are in general.
- The classic regular rectangle is the standard, most common option. No matter how strange it may sound, but decide how to finish the doorway of the front door with classical forms, the hardest. You can decorate with anything, but the problem is large selection materials that are difficult to identify. The main plus is that the finish doorways Do-it-yourself rectangular shape will not cause much difficulty.
- The arch looks more impressive, but finishing the door slopes after installing the arched entrance door is technologically more difficult. Plus, not all materials will fit. Except for the branded overlays that come with the door, then only plaster, drywall and elastic polyurethane slopes remain.
Arched openings look more impressive.
If the arched design of the doorways haunts you, it is not necessary to equip a real arch: it is much easier to install a decorative overlay in the form of an arch in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lintel (upper crossbar). This can be done both from the inside and outside, the door itself and the slopes will be rectangular.
A decorative overlay will help to design the doors in the form of an arch.
How and with what you can finish the slopes of the main door of your home
If you are faced with the task of how to finish the slopes of the front door, with step by step instructions you can see in and on the video in this article, and we will try to analyze to the smallest detail all the pros and cons, which are often forgotten to be mentioned in brochures.
Option number 1. Good old plaster
Finishing doorways cement plaster deservedly considered the patriarch of the direction. This finish of the door slopes appeared along with the doors themselves.
A well-plastered and finished slope will last for more than a dozen years, it is not afraid of any temperature changes, or humidity, or cold. The plaster will fill all voids and irregularities. To spoil such a slope, you need to beat on it with a hammer. If you are not going to influence your doors so radically, then you can be calm about the rest. To freshen up the surroundings, the plastered slope can be repainted, wallpapered or lined with a fashionable now reflective film with a 3D effect: smooth and durable surface endure everything.
But plaster also has a downside. Of all the finishing methods, plastering slopes is the most time-consuming and dirty process.
Plastering the slopes of the entrance doors is not an easy task.
Of course, if you install the beacons correctly, buy good plaster mixes and high-quality tools, then things will go much faster. Although believe me, if you have never plastered doorways with your own hands, this kind of design is not for you. In addition, plaster is, in fact, a stone, only artificial, and you should not expect any serious insulation from such a finish.
There is one more professional nuance. Even on a well-leveled slope, you can only paste wallpaper, and then after two layers of primer. For high-quality painting, one plaster is not enough: the surface will still have to be additionally puttied and sanded, and puttying and grinding will take no less time, effort and money than plaster.
plastered doorways look simple but elegant.
By the way, if you plan to finish the slope with natural or artificial stone, then the plaster will be the best and most reliable base, you do not need to putty it.
Option number 2. Drywall slopes
The next most reliable is the finishing of the doorway of the front door with drywall sheets. This cladding is also called dry plaster.
Drywall attracts with speed and relative ease of installation, plus if necessary door jambs can be closed almost completely. If you conditionally break down all the work, then in short, finishing the front door opening with sheets of moisture-resistant drywall consists of 5 stages:
- According to the rules, before finishing the front door opening, the surface must be cleaned of debris and covered with soil. But if the foundation is strong, for example, Brick wall, then it is enough to brush off the dust and walk with a solution of copper sulfate so that the fungus does not start.
- Next, we install a frame of metal profiles. There are wall and ceiling profiles, so for slopes it is better to take ceiling (UD / CD). If a large space is covered, then a solid frame is mounted, and when there is not enough space, only extreme vertical guides are placed.
- GKL is better to take wall (12.5 mm), and the sheets must be moisture resistant. If an arch is formed, then there is arched drywall(7.5 mm). Sheets are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws, and glued to the wall tile adhesive or similar building mix.
- When the structure is assembled, it must be puttied. Remember - nothing is glued to the "bare" sheets, it is not painted or attached.
- The last step is the decor of the doorway. It all depends on taste, skill and financial capabilities. The easiest way is to paste over the slopes with wallpaper. They don't need to be carefully sanded. Next comes the painting, but before it you have to sand the slope well. Tiles or stone are more expensive, but glued quickly and easily.
A hollow plasterboard slope has another indisputable advantage: it can be filled with insulation, thereby increasing heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is better to take polystyrene as a heater. There is an option to blow the mounting foam inside, but you need to act carefully: when it expands, it can squeeze out the sheet. It is advisable not to use mineral or any other wool for warming the passages of the entrance doors: it will become damp from condensate and become useless.
Many people reproach drywall for allegedly easily breaking through, but believe me, if you mount a good frame with a gap between the profiles of no more than 200 mm, and when mounting on glue you do not regret the glue, then you can not worry about the strength of the slope.
Option number 3. MDF
Finishing the jambs of the front door with MDF boards is currently considered perhaps the most common. It's pretty tough and at the same time beautiful material, such panels behave well at temperature extremes and in conditions of high humidity.
When choosing MDF panels, there are small nuance: you can take any sheets to finish the front door from the inside, but under the outer slopes, especially if the doors go straight to the street, you should buy only moisture resistant ones (their back has a greenish tint), otherwise after a year all the beauty will go bubbles.
In this case, we are only interested in laminated panels, it makes no sense to take ordinary ones and then paint them separately. There are also panels covered with veneer in the line natural wood. The price for them is about half as high as for laminated ones, but such slopes are practically indistinguishable from expensive wood.
A backlit slope made of veneered MDF is not only beautiful, but also convenient.
Concerning self-assembly, then dobors, platbands, mounting angles and other things to buy and install are not a problem. Essentially, you are dealing with a constructor. First, a frame of wooden bars is constructed along the perimeter of the opening, and panels are already attached to it.
From a relatively expensive tool, you will need a miter saw or at least a jigsaw, as well as a drill and a screwdriver. A hammer, tape measure, etc. are usually in the arsenal of any home craftsman.
The downside of MDF slopes is only the price of the material itself. More expensive than such a cladding is only natural wood of elite species, by the way, it is mounted in the same way, but it’s better not to take it on yourself: the risk of spoiling is too great.
To equip a door slope from MDF is not as difficult as it seems.
Option number 4. Clapboard
Price for a good wooden lining approximately equal to the cost of MDF, but in this case you get slopes made of natural wood. This design of the doorway looks pretty solid, but there are nuances.
Any lining is mounted on a wooden crate, which means that you must have enough space for such a crate. Accordingly, it is problematic to make small slopes from the lining.
Natural wood is a good material, but rather capricious. In extreme conditions of entrance doors, wood must be covered with antiseptics, fire retardants and other protective compounds.
Previously, the lining was completely varnished, now design experts do not recommend varnish. The fact is that most people associate varnished lining with balconies and garages, and the front door is still the face of the home. It is best to buy an oil-wax impregnation and apply it. The result pleases: quickly, beautifully and inexpensively.
Option number 5. PVC
Slopes from PVC finishing panels can be mounted within 1 day, plus the price of this material is affordable for almost everyone, but decorating a doorway with plastic has a number of negative points.
Plastic PVC slopes are mounted easily and quickly.
You can break through a hollow thin panel by simply leaning on it. As practice has shown, even the highest quality plastic panels on a good crate in the area of \u200b\u200bthe entrance doors they are kept for no more than two to three years.
Under the plastic you need a wooden or metal crate. Theoretically, such a panel can be glued to the plastered slope with liquid nails, but if you have a good plastered slope, then why do you need plastic.
In addition, according to fire regulations, it is extremely undesirable to mount plastic in the entrance area. In the event of a fire, it will actively melt and emit suffocating acrid smoke, thereby blocking the exit.
Although, on the other hand, as a temporary solution to the problem, plastic fits perfectly. And when you have enough funds, you can quickly dismantle it and install solid slopes from high-quality MDF on the same crate.
PVC panels have a fairly wide range of decor.
Option number 6. Decorative polyurethane lining
If you dream of seeing your doors decorated with luxurious moldings, we recommend that you pay attention to decorative polyurethane linings. Visually, such a finish cannot be distinguished from good stucco, and the performance of such slopes is an order of magnitude higher. The only problem is that the price for such decorations is quite serious, plus you can’t glue an overlay on a curved base. In other words, you will first need to level the slope with plaster or drywall, and then glue polyurethane beauty on it.
If the slopes are decorated with luxurious stucco, this speaks of good taste and the status of the owner.
A few words about the decorative finishing of door slopes
Finishing decorative trim it is applied only on a solid prepared base, respectively, we can only choose between plaster and drywall.
- Most often, people choose simple staining. The quality of modern paints is such that they can retain their original appearance for quite a long time and under any weather conditions, plus, if you get tired of the color, you can always repaint.
- The next in the ranking of finishing door slopes is decorative tiles. Tiles for entrance doors are not suitable, so it is better to give preference to clinker tiles. If funds allow, then it is possible to line the slopes with artificial stone, according to by and large this is the same tile, only made from stone dust and polymers.
- The top three leaders are natural stone. Pleasure is far from cheap, in addition, it is better not to undertake it with your own hands and without preparation. Natural stone is a heavy and difficult material to process.
Qualitative fake diamond visually does not differ from natural.
Conclusion
In conclusion, we would like to note that it is better for homemade ones to dwell on materials designed for crates. These are MDF, wood and PVC. If you are confident in yourself, then you can swing at drywall. But we recommend leaving the plastering of slopes to professionals.
MDF door slopes are one of the most affordable for self-arrangement.