Frame house using Finnish technology. What is the difference between Scandinavian frames

Advertisements are full of big names - houses using Finnish, Canadian, American, German and other technologies. How to make sense of this diversity and separate the wheat from the chaff?

Since the site is called “Finnish House,” then let’s start understanding the Finnish (Scandinavian) technology for constructing frame houses.

Roofing and ceilings

Considering that prefabricated house kits are mainly used in Scandinavia, the most common rafter system is a factory-produced truss system on gear plates (GRP). This solution is very beneficial for commercial construction. Precisely calculated loads, factory quality of the product and, most importantly, simple and quick installation of the roof.

Large attic trusses can be composite for ease of transportation

Farms come in a wide variety of bizarre shapes. Moreover, attic and semi-attic floors are also most often realized through trusses. In this case, the truss is actually a single whole consisting of a truss structure, attic walls and an interfloor ceiling.

Installed trusses. Where there are 1.5 floors, attic trusses are used.

Such huge trusses are assembled using a crane and can be composited if the truss dimensions exceed the standard “transport” dimensions due to dimensional restrictions.

Small farms can be assembled without the use of equipment.

The undeniable advantage of roof trusses is that, as a rule, they do not require internal load-bearing walls. Consequently, planning possibilities are expanded.

Often, for the implementation of complex roofs, materials such as laminated veneer lumber or LVL timber are used. Usually when the task is to make some kind of long-span unsupported structure designed for a large load

The roofing “pie” absolutely always contains waterproofing, counter sheathing and sheathing. That is, regardless of whether the house is one-story with a cold attic or an attic floor, the roof is always made with a ventilation gap.

What’s interesting is that to create a ventilation gap, we use not a thick 50x50 block like ours, but a 25-30mm thick strip

Regarding roofing coverings. Unlike America, where in 90% of cases soft tiles are made, in Scandinavia a wide variety of types of roofing are used - metal tiles, seam roofing, tiles of all kinds (natural, composite, etc.), soft tiles...

The only thing I have never seen on Scandinavian houses is ondulin and similar materials.

Interfloor ceilings are also performed in different ways, depending on the task. Wooden laminated I-beams, laminated and LVL timber, trusses or a simple board can be used

Frame

Unlike America, in Scandinavia there are no uniform rules (building code) governing how the frame itself should be implemented. Therefore, for a particular company, the frame can be very specific. But the main elements are performed in the same way as in American frame construction. The basis of the frame, of course, is the same as in any other civilized country - dry planed board. Wooden beams are used extremely rarely, only to solve some highly specific specific problems. And then, most likely, it will not be just timber, but the same laminated timber or LVL.

One of the interesting features of the Finnish frame is the so-called “Finnish crossbar”. A board (and most often LVL timber) embedded “on edge” into the racks under the top trim. This solution allows you to do without double top trim and window “headers”, which are mandatory for use in American frame house construction.

Another feature from the Americans. Double and especially triple racks are not always used in the area of ​​window openings. This is probably due to the fact that in the American frame these boards are mainly used to support the same “header”, which in the Scandinavian version is replaced by crossbars embedded in the racks.

Companies that make large panels such as omatalo (finndomo), yukkatalo use something like I-beams for racks to combat “cold bridges.” Or combined composite racks, with a “thermal break” made of material with low thermal conductivity. It is already difficult to repeat such options in artisanal conditions. This is a solution for industrial production.

External slab cladding, wind protection and frame stiffening elements.

Another striking difference from the Americans.

In the American frame, in 99% of cases, continuous cladding with OSB3 boards is used on the outside + a wind-hydroprotective membrane on top. OSB plays a structural role - giving the frame spatial rigidity. And the membrane protects the OSB from excess moisture in case of any leaks along the facade.

In Scandinavian frames, this is an extremely rare, almost never found option. Basically, three types of implementation of sheathing, wind protection and stiffening elements can be distinguished.

Recently, options have begun to appear using OSB in the wall, but unlike the American version, in the Scandinavian version OSB is usually installed on the inside of the room.

In addition, sometimes (but not always) in the first two options a windproof film is also placed on top.

I am impressed by this approach to wall construction, because the Scandinavians never use material with relatively low vapor transmission (for example, OSB) on the outside - due to which, from the point of view of vapor permeability, the design turns out to be more correct and “foolproof”.

On the Russian “Internet” you can often come across the opinion that if you use fairly soft materials such as gypsum plasterboard or MDVP for cladding, then you must definitely use jibs. Because compared to American OSB, these materials are flimsy. I don't agree with this opinion. Firstly, you need to understand in which direction these materials work in the wall. And in this direction, soft materials are very durable. In addition, what I call the “bundle of arrows principle” operates here. Perhaps slab cladding alone with these materials will not be enough, but in combination with internal and external facade cladding - it is quite enough. That is, each “layer of the wall cake” makes a small contribution to the structural rigidity and the result is quite sufficient.

Facade and interior decoration

Wood is used in 90% of façade finishing. It can be “imitation timber” in our understanding, “American”, just a board and a quarter, vertical cladding with a simple planed board in 2 layers with a “spread”, planken, etc.. The cladding can be either vertical or horizontal .

The remaining 10% are plaster and other types of facades. Vinyl siding, so popular in America, has not taken root in Scandinavia. All kinds of composite panels, facing bricks, also used very rarely

Any wooden facade Always done with a ventilation gap. Moreover, its implementation is not always trivial.

Another interesting feature is that the Scandinavians do not hesitate to hit the sheathing directly into the plane of the board, and not hidden, as we like to do. There are 2 points here.

• Firstly, in most cases the facade is painted with covering (opaque) paint, which will cover these fasteners. Glazing (translucent) materials, so popular in our country, are used much less frequently.
• Secondly, such fasteners are much stronger and a facade board nailed in this way makes a good contribution to the overall structural rigidity of the entire house.

An interesting point about painting facades. Wood is always painted with preliminary priming with a special primer. That is, 1 layer of primer and 2-3 layers of high-quality covering paint.

In addition, our compatriots are often surprised that the boards on Finnish facades are “shaggy”, as if they had not been planed. In fact, after planing the facade board, it deliberately “shags”, that is, wood pile rises. This is done so that the board absorbs more paint - and as a result, a thicker layer of protective coating is formed

This is why Finnish houses can last up to 10-15 years without requiring repainting. Priming, high-quality paint and “shaggy” boards are the key to the durability of the facade

The boards are attached to 2 nails directly into the plane. Then it will be painted over. The board is already primed at the factory

The interior finish may vary. Basically this is gypsum board with subsequent painting or gluing of wallpaper or wood. And often there is a combination of both.

Considering that the foundation is basically both the floor of the first floor and the heating system (warm water floors), the entire first floor is often laid out with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

The ceiling is usually either wood or special ceiling panels or plasterboard.

“Pie” walls and insulation

This is a big and complex topic.

There are different types of “pies”. Each company strives to come up with something of its own, super energy efficient. By the way, energy efficiency is a Scandinavian fad. Walls with an effective insulation layer of 250 mm, an attic or roof from 300 to 500 (!!) mm are not an exception, but the norm.

The main insulation is mineral wool insulation. Paroc is very popular (support for domestic manufacturers), and various glass wools such as Ursa or Isover are also popular only from local, smaller manufacturers. Cellulose ecowool is a niche product. Most likely, this is due to the peculiarities of its use, since ecowool insulation is difficult to “build in” into the factory cycle.

A common option is when vertical surfaces are insulated with mineral wool, and the ceilings and attic are insulated with ecowool, which the owner himself buys in the store and rents a blow-blown installation there.

There is always a vapor barrier! Moreover, this is basically a simple 200 micron polyethylene film. Some “branded” vapor barriers are rarely used.

A typical Finnish wall "pie" looks something like this (from outside to inside)

1. Facade board
2. Ventilation gap
3. Facade gypsum plasterboard or MDV or simply windproof film
4. Main frame with insulation
5. vapor barrier
6. additional layer of insulation. For example, horizontal lathing + insulation.
7. GKL or other material for interior decoration

Compare with typical American

1. Siding
2. OSB + wind protection
3. frame with insulation
4. vapor barrier

Apart from the differences in slab materials on the outside of the wall, the main difference is the presence of a ventilation gap on the outside and an additional gap with insulation on the inside.

With the first, everything is clear, wood, a material more critical to moisture than vinyl board and a ventilation gap for it, is more of a necessity than a whim. Unless, of course, a long-lasting, reliable system is considered. By the way, wooden siding in America is also installed with a ventilation gap.

An interesting difference is in point 6 of the Scandinavian “pie”.

A lathing is made on top of the vapor barrier (usually horizontal) in which communications (water, electrical) are carried out and this gap is insulated

We receive several bonuses at once

• The energy efficiency of the structure increases due to an additional, cross-layer insulation
• It is very convenient to carry out communications in the gap, without drilling into the posts
• Potential damage to the vapor barrier circuit is minimized since it does not need to be pierced to allow pipes and wires to exit.

By the way, such a lathing gap, albeit without insulation, is usually present on ceilings. It is very convenient to carry electrical wiring and other communications in it.

Jetta Talo's "Super Effective Pie"

Quite a typical “pie” with ecowool insulation and imitation of “cuts” of a wooden house on the outside. The sheathing inside is vertical - in order to immediately place the imitation timber horizontally.

Windows made of metal-plastic profiles, popular in Germany and here, have not taken root in Scandinavia.

Basically, the following window design is used here

The window is double glazed, the internal frame is wooden, with a single glazed unit. External, can be either wooden or metal, with one glass (in more energy-efficient options, also a wooden frame and double-glazed windows). The design of the windows itself is such that both sashes open inward at the same time, for which a special connector with a sliding mechanism is responsible.

This is probably the most “hard to replicate” part of a Scandinavian home. Original windows in Russia are, to put it mildly, obscenely expensive. There are many options for “analogs”, but again, either the price is significantly higher than the usual metal-plastic or the quality is lame, and on both legs.

Heating, ventilation and other communications

Heating is usually water-based, through a system of underfloor heating installed at the foundation stage. Radiators can only be installed on second floors.

The coolant can be heated by an electric boiler or any other boiler for water heating. Recently, it has also become very popular to use heat pumps of all types. Moreover, their implementation is actively popularized at the state level.

In small houses and on the second floors (instead of radiators), ordinary electric convectors are also very popular.

Everything is clear with water and sewerage - there are no special differences here.

Electrical wiring is hidden, running in gaps on the inside of the outer wall or above the ceiling. The American method of drilling racks and laying wiring in them is usually done only in partitions.

As in America, most often no corrugations or other protective “covers” are used for wiring. Although this depends on the manufacturer. As far as I understand, the emphasis is on a competent engineering calculation of the home’s electrical network, with all the necessary automation, high-quality wire, etc. The size of the electrical panel, even in a small Finnish house, can amaze the unprepared mind of the Russian average person, accustomed to the “three plugs” next to the electricity meter.

What is noteworthy is that, despite such a “careless” approach from the point of view of the Russian PUE, the statistics of fires due to electrical wiring failure or electric shock are several times lower. So... it's not about the corrugation.

For example, in the maximum version, this is a full-fledged supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery.

Wiring of a complete ventilation system

But in simpler houses (especially in Norway and Sweden) there are also more budget options. Supply valves directly in the walls of the house and centralized mechanical exhaust from kitchen areas, bathrooms and saunas.

The simplest ventilation option. Inflow through the “windows” and exhaust by a fan or exhaust unit from the control room and kitchen area

This option is less energy efficient, but much cheaper.

Is it possible to make a frame house using Finnish technology here?

Of course you can! After all, even a panel house kit differs from pre-cut only in that the panel is assembled not at a construction site, but in a warm workshop of a factory. And pre-cut differs from regular construction right on site only in that the frame parts are pre-cut. But you can cut them according to the design at the construction site!

Of course, not all elements can be repeated - for example, tricky Omatal racks with a thermal break can be made in makeshift conditions, but this will be a significant waste of time and money.

But making a simple frame with cross-insulation from the inside, for example, as Kastelli does, will not pose any problem.

And you may well become the owner of such a house, for quite reasonable money - 1.5-2 times cheaper than what an original Finnish house kit with delivery and assembly from abroad will cost you.

What kind of house you build depends only on you!

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About

Hello. My name is Alexey, you may have met me online under the nicknames Porcupine or Gribnick. "Finnish House" began with a personal blog, and now it is a team of like-minded people who help good people realize their dream - to build a good house for themselves and their family.

Vadim Chernyak

Very interesting about filling the electrical panel. I tried to find it on the Internet, but didn’t find anything worthy. By chance, you don’t have a photo near an open electrical panel in order to understand exactly what components the Scandinavians install. Thank you.

Alexei

Unfortunately, no, but according to reviews, no “America” is open there. The same automatic machines, RCDs, differential automatic machines and other garbage.
Is that the amount of all this stuff is noticeably different from what we are used to seeing in apartment panels.

I’ll tell you a secret, for example, in my generally small house, the 72-module shield turned out to be “too cramped.” ????
But to a certain extent this is due to specific wishes and the division into only 3 phases

PS Confirmation of my words????
http://puutarha.net/indexfr.aspx?s=/suorakanava/tvtulostus.asp?id=1411
The right side of the shield is filled with expensive toys from the smart home series - dimmers, switches, etc.

Danil

The glass area amazes me. Norway, Finland. Do the costs of lighting really cover the costs of compensating for heat loss through windows (including along the window contour). I also noticed that the bedroom is just a bedroom, with a minimum area for installing a bed and a small window.

Alexei

Firstly, do not forget that all these countries have both southern and northern regions. In the south, closer to the Baltic (the Gulf Stream in Norway), it is not so damn cold.
Secondly, of course, if you install cheap “single-chamber” double-glazed windows, of course it won’t be hot. But windows are different. Scandinavian windows are a completely separate topic.

To be honest, fears about huge windows and heat loss are greatly exaggerated. I have been in houses with large glazing and know the owners. I won’t say that they complained en masse about costs.

In general, large glazing is certainly not a cheap solution in every sense. But they are afraid of it like fire and because of this, sculpting embrasures like in the huts of the 17th century is also not a solution

About the bedrooms. Well, that's right. The purpose of a bedroom is to sleep in it. The rest of the time is usually spent either in the kitchen or in the living room. We, exhausted by the “housing issue” and simply do not have an understanding of the “culture of living in a house”, are forced to huddle in cramped one-room apartments, two-room apartments, and three-room apartments. Where, of course, you can’t turn around.

In general - like in “Heart of a Dog”

—
“Eat in the bedroom,” he spoke in a strangled voice, “read in the examination room, get dressed in the waiting room, operate in the servants’ room, and examine in the dining room?” It is very possible that Isadora Duncan does just that. Maybe she's having lunch in her office and cutting up rabbits in the bathroom. Maybe... But I'm not Isadora Duncan!! - he suddenly barked, and his purple turned yellow. - I will have lunch in the dining room and operate in the operating room! Pass this on to the general meeting, and
I humbly ask you to return to your business, and give me the opportunity to eat food where all normal people eat it, that is, in the dining room, and not in the hallway or in the nursery.

Natalia

Good afternoon Please tell me, is it easy to make roof trusses yourself or are they ordered from a factory (I’m in Moscow)? And again, are there any restrictions on the size (width) of the frame for such trusses?
I’m looking for a project, I want a one-story one with approximately 140 square meters, but I can’t figure out how it will work and whether it won’t be too expensive or difficult than making a 2-story one..?

Alexei

In general, a roof truss is just a structure. The ideal option is, of course, to order from the factory. Look for those who make trusses on gear plates using MiTek technology - in fact, that’s what they are. There are no size restrictions. On the contrary, for large-sized farms this is what you need.

As for doing it yourself, in principle, of course, you can, but the more complex the design of the farm, the more difficult it is to do it yourself and the less sense it makes to do it.

In addition, for a good truss it is necessary to calculate the loads. Those who produce farms do this using special software.

I have partners in Novgorod. A certified factory using MiTek technology - the guys are smart and not greedy, but I'm afraid shipping a set of trusses to Moscow will be expensive. But I am sure that there is more than one farm manufacturer in Moscow.

Ravil

Good afternoon.
Of course, if possible, Alexey, please share the “secret” of the technology for installing support-column foundations from the same Norgs.
What do we, Russians, miss important when constructing such structures?
Thank you.

Alexei

We are missing the ground. Norgs have a lot of rocky soils with low groundwater levels. That is, not heaving.

There is nothing wrong with the musculoskeletal fundus, with one BUT.
It can only be reliable on non-heaving soil.

Ravil

Clear..
Thank you for your reply.

Yurriy1979.

The Finns do not use a simple film for vapor barrier, it looks like a regular 200 micron film, and costs more.

Alexei

Daniel

Alexey, tell me: does a Scandinavian-type “pie” cause high humidity and related problems in the inner layer of thermal insulation (which is inward from the vapor barrier film)? Or is this somehow cleverly solved?

Alexei

In a heated house, the dew point (the source of moisture in the wall) will never fall on this layer. True, it depends on the thickness of the wall. If you make a wall 100+50, you can get there
150+50, low probability. 200+50, probability is almost zero

Alexander

Great article! Excellent summaries and comparisons made. And then at ForumHouse, how many copies are broken because of these “pies”. My head is already spinning!

But one aspect is still interesting: I heard the opinion that the OSB on the outside of the “American Pie” is not only a structural element that provides rigidity, but also a vapor barrier that protects the insulation in the summer heat, when it is warmer outside than in the house, where, in addition, air conditioning is on. Accordingly, steam under such conditions begins to penetrate from the street into the house. But does this steam condense? And in general, at what temperature does steam condense and press against a layer with a lower vapor transmission coefficient?

Based on this statement, it follows that for central Russia, where in the summer we very often experience heat of +30...35 degrees for two to three months, it would be more correct to have an “American pie” wall, where OSB serves as a vapor barrier on the outside. In this case, is it necessary to strengthen the vapor barrier properties of OSB and seal the seams with some kind of tape?

Please express your opinion on this issue. For example, I live in Voronezh. I have nothing against the “American” pie, but I like the “Scandinavian” one better. Which “pie” for central Russia do you think is the most correct?

Alexei

I smell traces of logi2121 from FH ????

Hello. The question is certainly interesting. To some extent you are right. But you need to double-check what the thermotechnical calculator will show.
After all, there are 12 months in a year. Therefore, 2-3 months will not be decisive. Moreover, a lot depends on humidity and temperature delta. Even if it’s +35 outside, but inside the house the air conditioner is turned on at +22. Delta is only 13 degrees.
But in winter, it’s +24 in the house, and let it be -20 outside. Delta is 44 degrees, that is, almost 3.5 more.
Therefore, there is a sound grain here and it is possible that for the middle zone, the American type of frame is more suitable than the Scandinavian one. But I wouldn't be paranoid about this.

Alexander

logi2121 - spot on! ????

How do we understand your phrase “But I wouldn’t be paranoid about this”?

Does this mean that, in your opinion, for central Russia there is no fundamental difference in the design of the “pie”? Is it possible to use both Scandinavian and American options?

Alexei

I am not ready to “expertly” answer this question. I thought about both options. Both show the possible appearance of condensation in the vapor barrier area. The difference is 25 percent.
Again, it is not entirely correct to set critical temperatures when using a calculator. As far as I know, for a more accurate result you need to focus on average seasonal temperatures. Because even if it’s +35 during the day, at night the temperature will drop to at least 28. Torment Logi and let him take the rap.

My opinion is this. Despite some imbalance in the summer, we still live in a cold climate and it is better to focus on it.

Alexander

Thank you very much for your answer! Is it possible to talk more about the “25 percent difference”?

Karkasnic

Alexey, tell me which company in Novgorod can properly build a frame house?

Paul

Alexey, I join the question.

Alexei

I won’t tell you about the company, but I have contacts, write to me by email

Konstantin

In Norway and Sweden it is not as cold as we usually think. To understand this fact, you need to look at the isotherm map of Europe. The climate there, of course, is not a gift, but if you compare the population density with the above map, it turns out that the majority of the population of Norway and Sweden lives in relatively favorable conditions. And if you look at the climate of Malmö, it becomes clear that “Swedish apple producers are concerned about the retaliatory sanctions imposed by Russia.” You can see how the attitude towards the size of glazing changes from south to north by looking at the catalogs of local real estate agencies.

Alexei

Well, in Norway, Sweden and Finland there are also northern regions where things are no longer so sweet. Here we must rather remember that technology has changed. The windows are not made of single glass in a wooden slotted frame, heat recovery systems, etc. All of this contributes.

To be honest, I don’t understand when, in pursuit of “warmth,” they begin to rivet loophole windows and then sit out in warm, dark holes????

Denis Komarov

I have been tormented for a long time by the issue of air flow through the valves at -30 overboard - isn’t it leaking? The supply to hot radiators is understandable, but what to do in the case of heated floors?

Alexei

It all depends on the air flow. And there is a trick here. There will be a normal flow - this is minus the heat and still there is a feeling of air movement. Low flow - at very low temperatures the valves may begin to freeze. And we must remember that the valves themselves do not work; an exhaust channel must be organized, preferably with a mechanical drive.

Mikhail Semenov

Good afternoon.
The project uses a cake with cross insulation, intermediate vapor barrier and gypsum board finishing. I need to finish a number of rooms with imitation timber - therefore, this option is not suitable for me. Would it be correct to do a vapor barrier after all layers of insulation, then a ventilation gap (in which the wiring will go) and imitation?
Is additional vapor barrier needed in insulated partitions with gypsum plasterboard finishing?
Thank you.

Alexei

No need to farm???? After the sheathing, make a vertical sheathing with a 25x50 lath (open it in half 25x100) and calmly beat the simulator horizontally on it

Cassandro

Good afternoon. Do I understand correctly that after the second layer of insulation (internal) a vapor barrier is not installed? Or is it installed differently? I got confused in the pictures with “pies”. in the “Pie” from Jetta Talo, it’s blue after the second layer - who is that?

Alexei

Not installed. Jetta's pie is generally different if you look closely. There is no internal insulation like in Castelli. The Jetta has counter insulation on the outside.
Blue is a vapor barrier. And gray is simple cardboard, so the Finns separate the layers of thermal insulation for less air permeability, with large thicknesses of insulation.

Michael

Hello. Can you suggest any decent frame builders from the Yaroslavl region? Thank you.

Michael

About the Yaroslavl region - a question for you. Thank you.

Igor3

It is written: “There is always a vapor barrier! Moreover, this is basically a simple 200 micron polyethylene film. “Branded” vapor barriers are rarely used.” Is this ordinary film that is sold in our hardware stores? Or special for construction? It is simply surprising if the film is ordinary, which can tear in the cold at the attachment points or when exposed to rodents.

Nikolay Suvorov

Arif

Is this ordinary film that is sold in our hardware stores?
No, not like that. Special (conditionally) which will not decompose in 25 years! There are such requirements for the manufacturer of films for household use, at least in Europe.
The vapor barrier film in the Finnish frame does not freeze at all, and is not pierced by anything; communications are already carried out behind the film!

Alexei

The question is ambiguous. Firstly, there is primary polyethylene film (greenhouse) and secondary (technical)

Primary vapor barrier is used. Special or not special - that’s the question. The film that the Finns use is NOTHING different tactilely or externally from ordinary greenhouse film. UV stabilization (UV radiation is the main destroyer of polyethylene) is not so important, since there is no UV radiation in the wall.

Therefore, “such or not” is already a subject of laboratory research.
At the same time, you must admit, it would be a shame to buy ordinary polyethylene at a price 2 times more expensive just because it says Delta ????

Arif

That’s for sure, if you knew what it costs to convince a client that this is not just savings, but essentially a marketing ploy and there is no difference. Just like bottled water. After all, the Finns have clean tap water!!! So the film is used idle time.

Alexei

Alexei

PS - a specific example. DELTA-DAWI GP costs around 3800 per 100m2
I charge 200 micron film for 6500 per roll of 300 m2
that is, the price difference is about 40%

Vitaly

Alexey, good afternoon! Thank you for the article! Could you please tell me some smart specialists from Ukraine in the construction of Scandinavian frame-type houses?

Tanya Belova

Alexey, please tell me how to make a pie for 250. After all, we take the main racks at 150 (145). Then cross by 100? Or two times 50? (for example outside and inside). Which is more correct?

Alexei

Alexey, is cold water also carried out in the inner layer of thermal insulation? If so, how to deal with condensation on pipes?

S.J.

planed timber with strength class C24 (for frame construction) with dimensions 45x195 plus cross-insulation 45x45, so we scored 250 (roughly speaking).

Martin

Alexey, good afternoon! Can you tell me if there will be an article about heating, as well as about windows, and whether it makes sense to install double-glazed windows without frames?

Maxim Gavrilov

It’s one thing to cover it with plasterboard, another with clapboard/imitation. It seems to me that, after all, in the case of interior wood trim, the counter insulation must be insulated, or what? Somehow it is not logical, it turns out that moisture from the interior will flow into this layer. Can I cover the craft with paper? Alexey, What do the Scandinavians do in this case? I couldn't find any literature on this issue.
If the main frame is insulated with stone wool, will the internal counter insulation be made of linen mats? Will this somehow affect the internal microclimate? :) Mikhail, how did you do it in the end?