Alexander Shepelev - how to build a rural house. How to build the rural house of your dreams? Shepelev how to build a rural house

Building your own home is a rather responsible and complex undertaking. However, there are also advantages here. Self-built housing will be of better quality and more comfortable. And what could be better than this, especially in a village house, when this city bustle is so tired.

Do-it-yourself instructions for building a wooden house

1. The first thing you need to decide is the material from which you will build the house. That is, we choose one of the two, either a tree or a stone. wood over cheap material, and most importantly, living in such a house will be much more comfortable.
2. We make special grooves in hewn logs. This will allow, by laying them crosswise, to get a strong connection. We add them until we get the desired height. But at the same time, it is also worth noting the fact that even though you get a really reliable laying, there will still be gaps between the logs. They can be caulked with any fibrous material. That is, you can use tow, and straw and dried moss. This way you can close all the cracks.
3. The next step will be the construction of the roof. It is recommended to make it gable, since it can take much less effort to create it, and most importantly, it will cost you much less compared to more sophisticated roof options.
4. We cover the space between the walls with logs, after which we make the roof slopes. Smooth beams from the ends of the walls must be strengthened in such a way that they interlock with each other in the middle of the space. Now we need to make the flooring. We choose the material to taste and lay the floor for the attic.
5. The slope must be made steep and even, which will allow water to flow freely during rain, and in snow there will be no snowdrifts.
6. Installing windows and doors. This work can be done depending on your preferences. But in any case, they must be strong and strong.
7. We must also not forget about the basement, as in winter period it will be warm enough here to store vegetables, as well as preparations, and in the summer it will be quite cool, which will allow you to keep refreshing drinks and perishable foods here.

Alexander Mikhailovich Shepelev - author of more than three dozen books on various types construction works. Their circulation in Russian alone exceeded 8 million copies. Many books have been translated into languages peoples of the USSR, published in English, Bulgarian, Romanian, Spanish and other languages. Among them are textbooks and manuals, books for workers.

But perhaps the most famous was brought by A.M. Shepelev books for an individual developer.

As you know, writing a book in a simple, accessible language for a non-specialist is not an easy task. The fact that Alexander Mikhailovich owns the "secret" of popularity is evidenced by the fact that his book "Repairing an Apartment on Your Own" was published seven times, "How to Build a Rural House" - four times, and at the same time they disappeared from the shelves of bookstores with lightning speed.

For 60 years of work in construction, he has mastered more than 10 construction professions. Having started his career as a worker, A.M. Shepelev, as a foreman, technician, foreman, construction manager, took part in the construction and reconstruction of such facilities as the Moscow Hotel, the All-Russian Central Executive Committee school in the Kremlin, the library named after. Lenin, Concert Hall. Tchaikovsky, in the restoration of the Manege and the Ostankino Palace Museum, etc.

In our country, much attention is paid to increasing housing construction in the countryside, which is mainly carried out by industrial methods, according to standard projects. However, individual construction is also developing at present. The state provides credit for these purposes and, in accordance with the Main Directions for the Economic and Social Development of the USSR for 1981-1985 and for the period up to 1990, assists individual housing construction in small towns, urban-type settlements and in rural areas.

In construction in the countryside, parts made of reinforced concrete and other similar materials are successfully used. But such traditional materials as brick, natural stone, tiles, wood, reeds, straw, clay are still widely used, especially in individual construction. From time immemorial, strong, beautiful, warm and durable residential buildings and other buildings have been built in the countryside from local materials, and even now they are building. When building a residential building or utility room, rural builders (and, above all, individual developers) often need not only materials and tools, but also qualified advice.

The fact is that during the construction you have to do a lot various works- earthen, stone, concrete, carpentry, carpentry, furnace, roofing, plastering, painting, glass. And only their correct implementation guarantees a long service life of the built house. Reveal the technological "secrets" of various construction works- this is the goal that the author of this book has set for himself.

A. M. Shepelev

HOW TO BUILD A RURAL HOUSE

In our country, much attention is paid to increasing housing construction in the countryside, which is mainly carried out by industrial methods, according to standard projects. However, individual construction is also developing at present. The state provides credit for these purposes and, in accordance with the Main Directions for the Economic and Social Development of the USSR for 1981-1985 and for the period up to 1990, assists individual housing construction in small towns, urban-type settlements and in rural areas.

In construction in the countryside, parts made of reinforced concrete and other similar materials are successfully used. But such traditional materials as brick, natural stone, tiles, wood, reeds, straw, clay are still widely used, especially in individual construction. From time immemorial, strong, beautiful, warm and durable residential buildings and other buildings have been built in the countryside from local materials, and even now they are building. When building a residential building or utility room, rural builders (and, above all, individual developers) often need not only materials and tools, but also qualified advice.

The fact is that during the construction it is necessary to perform a lot of different works - earthwork, stone, concrete, carpentry, carpentry, stove, roofing, plastering, painting, glass. And only their correct implementation guarantees a long service life of the built house. To reveal the technological "secrets" of various construction works - this is the goal that the author of this book has set for himself.

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE STRUCTURES OF THE HOUSE

The house is best built according to the project. When creating projects, architects provide for maximum convenience for the people living in it, offer the most progressive designs, that is, strong, cheap, durable and easy to implement. FROM various projects houses can be found in local councils people's deputies, in construction organizations and libraries.

Projects involve building a house from one material, such as brick, concrete, cinder block, wood, etc. But it can be built from any other material.

Consider a project Central Institute standard projects Gosstroy of the USSR, recommended by the Department of Architecture under the Executive Committee of the Moscow Regional Council of People's Deputies for individual construction in the Moscow Region.

Three-room house (Fig. 1, 2), chopped from logs, with a terrace and a pantry, a cellar under the kitchen, furnace heating and an outhouse. Building area of ​​a house with a terrace - 71.4 m2; living area - 31.0 m2; useful - 39.2 m2; utility room - 9.5 m2; cubic capacity - 182 m3.

The house has three rooms measuring 8.13; 10.29 and 12.56 m2; kitchen - 5.76 m2; entrance hall - 2.45 m2; canopy - 4.4 m2; pantry - 4.72 m2 and terrace - 12.54 m2. In the plan, these figures are rounded.

The project provides for the plan of the house, its sections, foundation plan, sections of walls, ceilings, attic, basement, floor, details of platbands, design of the terrace, cornice, etc., as well as the site development option.

The development plan indicates the location of the house, the utility shed, which can be a garage, a restroom, green spaces, etc.

On the main facade of the house and in sections there are arrows with pluses, minuses and numbers indicating meters or centimeters. An arrow with plus and minus 0.00 stands at floor level and is called the zero mark. The numbers going down from this mark are called minus, and up - plus.

Rice. 1. The main facade and plan of a residential building (dimensions in cm and m) from 1, 6, 7 - rooms; 2 - kitchen; 3 - corridor; 4 - pantry; 5 - terrace

Rice. 2. Yard and side facades, foundation and site plans (dimensions in cm)

The minus 0.60 mark indicates the distance from ground level to the top of the floor or foundation; minus 1.30 indicates that at this level, counting from the floor, pillars are laid under the foundation; minus 2.40 indicates the laying of the basement walls.

The mark plus 0.80 determines the level of the window sill, which is 80 cm above the floor. The level of the upper part of the window opening is indicated by the mark plus 2.20. If we subtract plus 80 cm from this mark, we get the height of the window opening, equal to 1.40 m.

The ceiling level is indicated as plus 3.15 and the top of the dormer as plus 3.75. The level of the roof ridge is at the level of 5.35 m, and the top chimneys- at the level of 6.05 m.

Other marks are given in the sections. For example, the terrace height is 2.40; ceiling height from floor 2.90 m, etc.

The sections of the house are shown in Figure 3. For the house, the rafters are made with a section of 18X6 cm, floor beams - 18X8 cm, etc.

Consider the individual parts of the house.

Rice. 3. Sections of the house (dimensions in cm and m)

The foundation for the outer walls is made of rubble stone in the form of pillars 60X60 cm in size with a laying depth of 70 cm (with a high standing ground water laying depth can reach 120 cm). Internal pillars can be deepened by 50 cm. Buta pillars do not reach the ground level by 10 cm. Above this mark, a plinth is laid out - brick columns of 2X1.5 bricks and between them - a wall of one brick, called a fence. For ventilation of the underground from two opposite sides, two holes are provided in the intake, 14X14 cm in size, but more often 25X25 cm. In the spring they are opened, and in the fall they are closed and insulated. From the inside, the base is insulated with slag, sand, earth, but not clay.

The top of the plinth is leveled cement mortar, insulated with two or three layers of roofing felt or roofing felt (preferably on mastic). A heat-insulating antiseptic material (tow or felt) is laid on the waterproofing, then two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt and on top of all this lining - an antiseptic (antiseptic or bituminous mastic) dry board 5-6 cm thick and 20 cm wide. The lining protects the lower logs of the log house from rotting , and it can be changed when destroyed.

The walls (Fig. 4) are chopped, wooden, made of logs with a cut diameter of 22 cm and hewn to one edge. Insulated from the foundation with a lining, a layer of tow, felt, etc. (2 cm), the lower (setting) crown is made of thicker logs with a trim of two edges (the width of the lower edge is at least 15 cm). From the inside, a thermal bar is strengthened to the lining board; space between him and lower crown filled with tow. On the first crown thermal insulation material, on it - the second crown, etc. After laying five crowns, the assembly of piers is provided, on which subsequent crowns are then laid. Window and door openings must have a sediment gap and be higher (greater) than the height of window or door frames by 1/20 of their height, i.e. by 7 - 8 cm. If this gap does not exist, then the crowns above the windows and doors will eventually sag due to precipitation (shrinkage of wood, sealing of thermal insulation), forming large gaps above the walls. The gaps are filled with tow or felt, and only after complete settlement can a beam be inserted into the gap. In Figure 4, the sediment gap is 7 cm.

Rice. 4. Wall section (dimensions in cm):

1 - sedimentary gap 7 cm; 2 - antiseptic lining board 5 cm thick; 3 - thermal bar; 4 - floor, boards 4 cm thick and logs 16/2 cm; 5 - antiseptic lining board with a thickness of 4-5 cm over the roofing felt in two layers; brick pillar IR 25X25 cm; 6 - crushed stone spilled with lime mortar 12 cm thick on compacted soil; 7 - brick base, 8 - compacted crushed stone for clay preparation; 9 - rubble pillar; 10 - felt or tow accepted; 11 - thermal bar

The attic floor is shown in Figure 5, a. The height of the premises in the house is provided for 290 cm in cleanliness, but, given the draft, ceiling beams section 8X18 cm should be cut 5 - 10 cm higher. The beams are laid strictly horizontally, at a distance of 100 cm from each other. Bars ("skulls") with a section of 4X5 cm are nailed to the sides of the beams, on which a roll of 8 cm thick plates is laid. The cut ends of the plates should lie flush with the undersides of the beams, forming an even overlap. Instead of plates, two-layer plank shields 8 cm thick are sometimes used. The roll is covered with slag, dry earth (15 cm layer).

So that the backfill does not wake up, the cracks of the roll must be smeared with clay. If sawdust is used, they must first be mixed with fluff lime and gypsum, and then covered with a layer of slag (3 - 4 cm).

Rice. 5. Details of the floor, attic and above basement floors (dimensions in cm):

a - attic floor: 1 - bars 4X5 cm; 2 - beams 8X18 cm through 100 cm; 3 - rolling from plates d = 16/2 cm; 4 - clay lubricant 2 cm; 5 - backfill 15 cm; b - floor of the first floor: 1 - clean floor 4 cm; 2 - logs from plates d = 16/2 cm; 3 - lining - tarred board 4 cm across the roofing felt in two layers; 4 - brick pillar 25X25 cm, L=15 cm; 5 - crushed stone with pouring lime mortar 12 cm; 6 - compacted soil; c - detail of the basement ceiling: 1 - clean floor 4 cm; 2 - sand 5 cm; 3 - rolling into trimming d=14/2 with clay grease 2 cm; 4 - manhole cover (boards - 2.2 cm, felt - 2 cm, boards - 2.2 cm); 5 - strapping 6.4 cm; 6 - beam 8X18 cm; 7 - cranial bar 4X5 cm

Current page: 1 (total book has 32 pages)

A. M. Shepelev
HOW TO BUILD A RURAL HOUSE

In our country, much attention is paid to increasing housing construction in the countryside, which is mainly carried out by industrial methods, according to standard projects. However, individual construction is also developing at present. The state provides credit for these purposes and, in accordance with the Main Directions for the Economic and Social Development of the USSR for 1981-1985 and for the period up to 1990, assists individual housing construction in small towns, urban-type settlements and in rural areas.

In construction in the countryside, parts made of reinforced concrete and other similar materials are successfully used. But such traditional materials as brick, natural stone, tiles, wood, reeds, straw, clay are still widely used, especially in individual construction. From time immemorial, strong, beautiful, warm and durable residential buildings and other buildings have been built in the countryside from local materials, and even now they are building. When building a residential building or utility room, rural builders (and, above all, individual developers) often need not only materials and tools, but also qualified advice.

The fact is that during construction it is necessary to perform a lot of different works - earthwork, stone, concrete, carpentry, carpentry, stove, roofing, plastering, painting, glass. And only their correct implementation guarantees a long service life of the built house. To reveal the technological “secrets” of various construction works is the goal that the author of this book has set for himself.

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE STRUCTURES OF THE HOUSE

The house is best built according to the project. When creating projects, architects provide for maximum convenience for the people living in it, offer the most progressive designs, that is, strong, cheap, durable and easy to implement. Various projects of houses can be found in local Councils of People's Deputies, in construction organizations and libraries.

Projects involve building a house from one material, such as brick, concrete, cinder block, wood, etc. But it can be built from any other material.

Consider the project of the Central Institute of Standard Projects of the Gosstroy of the USSR, recommended by the Department of Architecture under the Executive Committee of the Moscow Regional Council of People's Deputies for individual construction in the Moscow Region.

A three-room house (Fig. 1, 2), cut from logs, with a terrace and a pantry, a cellar under the kitchen, stove heating and a portable toilet. Building area of ​​a house with a terrace - 71.4 m2; living area - 31.0 m2; useful - 39.2 m2; utility room - 9.5 m2; cubic capacity - 182 m3.

The house has three rooms measuring 8.13; 10.29 and 12.56 m2; kitchen - 5.76 m2; entrance hall - 2.45 m2; canopy - 4.4 m2; pantry - 4.72 m2 and terrace - 12.54 m2. In the plan, these figures are rounded.

The project provides for the plan of the house, its sections, foundation plan, sections of walls, ceilings, attic, basement, floor, details of platbands, design of the terrace, cornice, etc., as well as the site development option.

The development plan indicates the location of the house, the utility shed, which can be a garage, a restroom, green spaces, etc.

On the main facade of the house and in sections there are arrows with pluses, minuses and numbers indicating meters or centimeters. An arrow with plus and minus 0.00 stands at floor level and is called the zero mark. The numbers going down from this mark are called minus, and up - plus.

Rice. 1. The main facade and plan of a residential building (dimensions in cm and m) from 1, 6, 7 - rooms; 2 - kitchen; 3 - corridor; 4 - pantry; 5 - terrace

Rice. 2. Yard and side facades, foundation and site plans (dimensions in cm)

The minus 0.60 mark indicates the distance from ground level to the top of the floor or foundation; minus 1.30 indicates that at this level, counting from the floor, pillars are laid under the foundation; minus 2.40 indicates the laying of the basement walls.

The mark plus 0.80 determines the level of the window sill, which is 80 cm above the floor. The level of the upper part of the window opening is indicated by the mark plus 2.20. If we subtract plus 80 cm from this mark, we get the height of the window opening, equal to 1.40 m.

The ceiling level is indicated by plus 3.15, and the upper part of the dormer is plus 3.75. The level of the roof ridge is at 5.35 m and the top of the chimneys is at 6.05 m.

Other marks are given in the sections. For example, the terrace height is 2.40; ceiling height from floor 2.90 m, etc.

The sections of the house are shown in Figure 3. For the house, the rafters are made with a section of 18X6 cm, floor beams - 18X8 cm, etc.

Consider the individual parts of the house.

Rice. 3. Sections of the house (dimensions in cm and m)

The foundation for the outer walls is made of rubble stone in the form of pillars 60X60 cm in size with a laying depth of 70 cm (with a high standing groundwater, the laying depth can reach 120 cm). The internal pillars can be buried by 50 cm. The buta pillars do not reach the ground level by 10 cm. Above this mark, a plinth is laid out - brick columns of 2X1.5 bricks and between them - a wall of one brick, called a fence. For ventilation of the underground from two opposite sides, two holes are provided in the intake, 14X14 cm in size, but more often 25X25 cm. In the spring they are opened, and in the fall they are closed and insulated. From the inside, the base is insulated with slag, sand, earth, but not clay.

The top of the plinth is leveled with cement mortar, insulated with two or three layers of roofing felt or roofing material (preferably on mastic). A heat-insulating antiseptic material (tow or felt) is placed on the waterproofing, then two layers of roofing felt or roofing material and on top of all this lining is an antiseptic (antiseptic or bituminous mastic) dry board 5-6 cm thick and 20 cm wide. The lining protects the lower logs of the log house from rotting , and it can be changed when destroyed.

The walls (Fig. 4) are chopped, wooden, made of logs with a cut diameter of 22 cm and hewn to one edge. Insulated from the foundation with a lining, a layer of tow, felt, etc. (2 cm), the lower (setting) crown is made of thicker logs with a trim for two edges (the width of the lower edge is at least 15 cm). From the inside, a thermal bar is strengthened to the lining board; the space between it and the lower crown is filled with tow. A heat-insulating material is placed on the first crown, a second crown, etc. is placed on it. Window and door openings must have a sedimentary gap and be higher (greater) than the height of the window or door frames by 1/20 of their height, i.e., by 7–8 cm. If this gap does not exist, then the crowns above the windows and doors over time due to precipitation (shrinkage of wood, sealing of thermal insulation) they will sag, forming large gaps above the walls. The gaps are filled with tow or felt, and only after complete settlement can a beam be inserted into the gap. In Figure 4, the sediment gap is 7 cm.

Rice. 4. Wall section (dimensions in cm):

1 - sedimentary gap 7 cm; 2 - antiseptic lining board 5 cm thick; 3 - thermal beam; 4 - floor, boards 4 cm thick and logs 16/2 cm; 5 - antiseptic lining board with a thickness of 4-5 cm over the roofing felt in two layers; brick column 25X25 cm; 6 - crushed stone spilled with lime mortar 12 cm thick on compacted soil; 7 - brick base, 8 - compacted crushed stone for clay preparation; 9 - rubble pillar; 10 - felt or tow accepted; 11 - thermal bar

The attic floor is shown in Figure 5, a. The height of the premises in the house is provided for in cleanliness of 290 cm, but, given the draft, ceiling beams with a section of 8X18 cm should be cut 5-10 cm higher. The beams are laid strictly horizontally, at a distance of 100 cm from each other. Bars ("skulls") with a section of 4X5 cm are nailed to the sides of the beams, on which a roll of 8 cm thick plates is laid. The cut ends of the plates should lie flush with the undersides of the beams, forming an even overlap. Instead of plates, two-layer plank shields 8 cm thick are sometimes used. The roll is covered with slag, dry earth (15 cm layer).

So that the backfill does not wake up, the cracks of the roll must be smeared with clay. If sawdust is used, they must first be mixed with fluff lime and gypsum, and then covered with a layer of slag (3 - 4 cm).

Rice. 5. Details of the floor, attic and above basement floors (dimensions in cm):

a - attic floor: 1 - bars 4X5 cm; 2 - beams 8X18 cm through 100 cm; 3 - rolling from plates d=16/2 cm; 4 - clay grease 2 cm; 5 - backfill 15 cm; b - floor of the first floor: 1 - clean floor 4 cm; 2 - logs from plates d = 16/2 cm; 3 - lining - tarred board 4 cm across the roofing felt in two layers; 4 - brick pillar 25X25 cm, L=15 cm; 5 - crushed stone with pouring lime mortar 12 cm; 6 - compacted soil; c - detail of the basement ceiling: 1 - clean floor 4 cm; 2 - sand 5 cm; 3 - rolling into undercutting d = 14/2 with clay lubricant 2 cm; 4 - manhole cover (boards - 2.2 cm, felt - 2 cm, boards - 2.2 cm); 5 - strapping 6.4 cm; 6 - beam 8X18 cm; 7 - cranial bar 4X5 cm

The terrace with a pantry has a cold ceiling of planed wood or boards that are nailed to beams hewn to one edge, or boards of the desired section.

Underground. In order for the underground to be dry and clean, the soil must be leveled, compacted, covered with a layer of gravel or crushed stone (at least 12 cm) and filled with lime or cement mortar. If the soil is not dry enough, it is necessary to lay a layer of fat crumpled clay (25 cm), compact it well, cover it with a layer of gravel or crushed stone (at least 12 cm), compact and pour lime or cement mortar, the latter is more durable and waterproof.

Floors (Fig. 5, b). On the preparation of the underground, brick columns are laid out. 25X25 cm in size, insulated on top with two layers of roofing felt, on which a tarred or antiseptic lining is placed (dry board 4 cm thick), and logs of plates are placed on it. It is on them that a clean floor is laid from boards 4 cm thick, with selected tongues or quarters. The boards are tightly riveted, nailed and, if required, painted.

The basement (Fig. 5, c) is located under the kitchen; its walls are laid to a depth of 240 cm, counting from the level of the finished floor. At high level groundwater basements under the house is not recommended, because it will always be damp there. If the developer wants to have a basement, then it must be especially carefully insulated (see "Food storage rooms").

The roof is covered with asbestos-cement tiles along a continuous crate.

Partitions can be clean in tongue or plastered on both sides.

Doors are provided single-paneled, but can be panel. In the passage - plank, on dowels. Size - 200X85 cm -

Bindings are double, open in different directions, with windows in each room. Size - 140X100 cm. In extensions, windows are filled with single bindings.

Heating is provided by stove. One stove heats three rooms. Since the front wall of the stove, which goes into one of the rooms, may not heat it enough, then there is additionally from cooker pull out a shield with three channels. You can arrange water heating.

The terrace can be made after the construction of the house, but its draft should be taken into account.

The blind area serves to divert water flowing from the roof from the house. Arrange from oily clay with a layer of 15 - 20 cm (coated with stone), concrete or other materials. Its width is at least 1 m.

After the construction of the house, but not earlier than a year, they proceed to its windowing, and after a year or two, after complete draft, to finishing: sheathing with boards, plastering and staining, arranging platbands, cornices, gables, etc.

The design of platbands, cornices and terraces is shown in Figure 6.

For the construction of a house according to the considered project, the following materials are required: logs of the required length with a diameter of 22 - 24 cm - 40 m3; lumber different - 20 m3; rubble stone - 10 m3; red brick - 7.5 thousand pieces; crushed brick, stone or gravel - 6.5 m3; boiled lime - 2.1 tons; building gypsum (the old name is alabaster) - 2.5 tons; mountain or river sand - 12.6 m3; flat asbestos-cement tiles (for roofing) - 1100 pcs.; brackets and bolts - 116 kg; various building nails - 101 kg; window glass - 17 m2; roofing felt or roofing material - 105 m2; roofing steel - 30 kg; drying oil - 68 kg; white and other paints - 42 kg. If the house is not painted from the outside, then less drying oil and paint will be required.

Rice. 6. Platbands and their details, roof framing and terrace fencing

All materials should be stored so that they do not get wet, rot and decay.

Logs and lumber are stacked on linings so that there are gaps between them for blowing air, which speeds up drying. They are covered from above.

Boiled lime, gypsum and cement are stored in dry sheds in barrels, bags or boxes raised from the ground level by at least 50 cm.

Tol, roofing felt, roofing - tiles, nails, glass, metal are stored in sheds. Roofing felt and roofing material - always in an upright position, drying oil and grated paints - in a resealable container.

Brick is stored in piles, gravel, crushed stone and sand - in heaps, protected from various contaminants.

DEVELOPMENT AND IMPROVEMENT OF THE PLOT

An individual developer usually has to deal not only with the construction of a house, but also with the planning and landscaping of his site.

At the same time, it must comply with architectural, fire-prevention and sanitary-hygienic requirements that create best conditions for living and recreation.

DEVELOPMENT AND PLANNING OF THE PLOT

The building and layout of the site may be different (Fig. 7). Usually the width of the site does not exceed 25 - 30 m, and the length is 50 - 60 m. Houses are often located on the site so that their facades not only face the street, but also come close to it, which is not entirely true. The house should be placed no closer than 2 - 3 m (and preferably 5 - 7 m) from the edge of the street, or the so-called red line. In this case, green spaces can be planted in front of the house, but not closer than 5 m from the house, otherwise a lot of shade is created and dampness may appear in the room. The fruit garden can be located both around the house and in the depths of the estate. The garden is best placed in the depth of the site.

Rice. Fig. 7. Examples of building and layout of the estate (dimensions in m): a - the usual option; b - with a garden along the long side of the site; c - without a garden with the placement of a house in the depths of the site; g - with a garden, a vegetable garden, a berry bush, a flower garden and a well; e - a plot for two houses; 1 - residential building; 2 - utility shed; 3 - vegetable garden; 4 - garden; 5 - restroom; 6 - compost heap; 7 - playground for children's games; 8 - well; 9 - berry bush; 10 - flower garden

Each house has various outbuildings (for transport, fuel, livestock, poultry). They are recommended to be taken deep into the site, and those that are visited more often, on the contrary, are brought closer to the house.

Each section should have roads that are not washed out by rains with turnaround areas for the passage of vehicles and narrower paths for the passage of people.

If there is a water supply, water columns are placed near the house. The well is also brought closer to the house.

A few words about the arrangement of rooms in the house. The dining room, or common room, should face the street; the veranda is on the north side, and the kitchen windows are on the utility yard and the playground for children (without interrupting work, the hostess can see what is happening in the yard and on the playground). Fire regulations require that the distance between combustible buildings be at least 15 m; between semi-combustible (walls and roof are fireproof, and ceilings are combustible) - at least 10 m.

The residential building and all other buildings of the site must have lightning protection. Flammable materials should be stored away from combustible buildings or in fireproof rooms built for them.

LANDSCAPE IMPROVEMENT

The site is first of all leveled (pits and mounds are eliminated) and, if necessary (if it is in a lowland and close to groundwater), it is drained. During drainage work (around the entire site or only at home or other buildings), they dig channels with a slope to drain water and arrange drainage. The depth of the channel depends on how much the groundwater needs to be lowered; its width is 50 - 70 cm. However, with a deep channel and weak ground its width may be greater.

From the foundation of the house, the drainage should be at a distance of 2 - 3 m, and its bottom should be on the same level with the base of the foundation. The bottom of the ditch is isolated with a layer of clay of 15 - 20 cm, smoothed over it, arranging, as it were, a tray. It is recommended to put large stones in this tray, and it is even better to arrange stone sides along the walls of the ditch, cover them with large stones on top, making a vault. A layer of coarse gravel or crushed stone (25 - 30 cm) is poured onto these stones, and on top of it is excavated soil. Water, filtering through gravel or crushed stone, enters the tray and flows down in the right direction. You can lay twigs or large brushwood with a layer of 50-60 cm on the bottom of the ditch, clearing it of leaves, pour a layer of gravel or crushed stone, then soil.

Drainage work can also be carried out using special drainage pipes.

To collect melt and rainwater, a pool (well) is built at the lowest point of the site. The size of the pool depends on the size of the site. So that water does not go into the ground, its bottom and walls should be well insulated. The floor of the pool is covered with greasy soft clay with a layer of 20 - 25 cm and carefully compacted. Then, with an indent of 20 - 25 cm from the ground, they put brick, concrete, wooden (from logs, boards, bars, tightly adjacent to each other, with well-caulked and tarred grooves) walls. The space between the walls is covered with greasy clay, carefully compacting it. The floor is made from the same material as the walls. brick walls and the floor should be plastered with a 1: 3 cement mortar (see below for the preparation of mortars), dry well, cover with bitumen in one, and even better, twice. The pool is covered from above with boards or concrete slabs and covered with earth, leaving only a hatch for water intake. It can be left open for waterfowl, but in this case the water will evaporate.

Part of the landscaped works on the site is the construction of roads. For construction, you can use stone, concrete, iron brick, cement soil, soil asphalt, etc. The width of roads is 2 - 2.5 m, paths (sidewalks) - 0.5 - 1 m. The basis for them is usually densely packed soil . If the soil is sandy, it only needs to be leveled and tamped; if clay or other, they do the so-called preparation. So that water does not linger on the ground, roads and paths are given a convex shape or a slope of 2 - 3%.

Rice. 8, Guardrail (dimensions in cm):

a - from a picket fence with a shrub planted along it; b - made of bricks; c - reinforced concrete

To drain water on both sides of the road (tracks), ditches-grooves are dug with a slope in one direction. The cuvettes are located from the road at a distance of 40 - 50 cm, from the tracks - at 25 - 30 cm.

Preparation for the road (if the soil is not sandy) is prepared like this. First, coarse gravel or crushed stone is poured in a layer of 8–10 cm, rammed, a second layer of finer gravel or crushed stone 5–7 cm thick is poured, rammed again, and a layer of sand 2–5 cm thick is applied on it, which is also rammed. After that, the road is laid out with a large stone, iron brick, concrete slabs, covered with concrete, cement soil or soil asphalt.

Under the paths, the same preparation is needed as under the road, but smaller in thickness. In addition, it is not recommended to lay stones, bricks and other materials directly on the ground (it does not always filter water) - sand bedding is necessary. For the device of tracks it is recommended to use a stone of different color.

Plots are usually limited by a fence (Fig. 8). A fence made of picket fence or brick, made in a cage, made of reinforced concrete (solid or lattice) is always quite beautiful. Wooden and metal fences are recommended to be painted with oil or any waterproof paint.

OUTBUILDINGS

The location of outbuildings near the house is unhygienic. Usually rooms for animals and birds are built no closer than 15 m from the house. Depending on the purpose, they can be of different sizes: barns - 8 - 10 m2 with a height of 2.5 m; pigsties - 3 - 5 m2 (for a sow - 6 m2) at a height of 2.2 - 2.6 m; for one sheep or goat - 1.5 - 2 m2 (the height is like that of a pigsty, but it can be more).

Near the outbuildings, a walking area should be made, fenced off so that the animals do not walk all over the estate.

Options for outbuildings for keeping various animals and birds are shown in Figure 9.

Rice. 9. Options for outbuildings (dimensions - in cm):

a - with a barn for cattle; b - with a barn for small livestock and poultry; 1 - utility shed; 2 - poultry house; 3 - a room for a goat; 4 - a room for a pig; 5 - barn; 6 - sheepfold; 7 - hatch to the cellar or glacier; 8 - - slurry collector; 9 - walking area for poultry; 10 - wire mesh

Inside the room or outside, a slurry collector is arranged, the walls and bottom of which are well insulated with soft clay or made completely concrete.

In our country, much attention is paid to increasing housing construction in the countryside, which is mainly carried out by industrial methods, according to standard projects. However, individual construction is also developing at present. The state provides credit for these purposes and, in accordance with the Main Directions for the Economic and Social Development of the USSR for 1981-1985 and for the period up to 1990, assists individual housing construction in small towns, urban-type settlements and in rural areas.

In construction in the countryside, parts made of reinforced concrete and other similar materials are successfully used. But such traditional materials as brick, natural stone, tiles, wood, reeds, straw, clay are still widely used, especially in individual construction. From time immemorial, strong, beautiful, warm and durable residential buildings and other buildings have been built in the countryside from local materials, and even now they are building. When building a residential building or utility room, rural builders (and, above all, individual developers) often need not only materials and tools, but also qualified advice.

The fact is that during the construction it is necessary to perform a lot of different works - earthwork, stone, concrete, carpentry, carpentry, stove, roofing, plastering, painting, glass. And only their correct implementation guarantees a long service life of the built house. To reveal the technological "secrets" of various construction works - this is the goal that the author of this book has set for himself.

The house is best built according to the project. When creating projects, architects provide for maximum convenience for the people living in it, offer the most progressive designs, that is, strong, cheap, durable and easy to implement. Various projects of houses can be found in local Councils of People's Deputies, in construction organizations and libraries.

Projects involve building a house from one material, such as brick, concrete, cinder block, wood, etc. But it can be built from any other material.

Consider the project of the Central Institute of Standard Projects of the Gosstroy of the USSR, recommended by the Department of Architecture under the Executive Committee of the Moscow Regional Council of People's Deputies for individual construction in the Moscow Region.

A three-room house (Fig. 1, 2), cut from logs, with a terrace and a pantry, a cellar under the kitchen, stove heating and a portable toilet. Building area of ​​a house with a terrace - 71.4 m2; living area - 31.0 m2; useful - 39.2 m2; utility room - 9.5 m2; cubic capacity - 182 m3.

The house has three rooms measuring 8.13; 10.29 and 12.56 m2; kitchen - 5.76 m2; entrance hall - 2.45 m2; canopy - 4.4 m2; pantry - 4.72 m2 and terrace - 12.54 m2. In the plan, these figures are rounded.

The project provides for the plan of the house, its sections, foundation plan, sections of walls, ceilings, attic, basement, floor, details of platbands, design of the terrace, cornice, etc., as well as the site development option.

The development plan indicates the location of the house, the utility shed, which can be a garage, a restroom, green spaces, etc.

On the main facade of the house and in sections there are arrows with pluses, minuses and numbers indicating meters or centimeters. An arrow with plus and minus 0.00 stands at floor level and is called the zero mark. The numbers going down from this mark are called minus, and up - plus.

Rice. 1. The main facade and plan of a residential building (dimensions in cm and m) from 1, 6, 7 - rooms; 2 - kitchen; 3 - corridor; 4 - pantry; 5 - terrace

Rice. 2. Yard and side facades, foundation and site plans (dimensions in cm)

The minus 0.60 mark indicates the distance from ground level to the top of the floor or foundation; minus 1.30 indicates that at this level, counting from the floor, pillars are laid under the foundation; minus 2.40 indicates the laying of the basement walls.

The mark plus 0.80 determines the level of the window sill, which is 80 cm above the floor. The level of the upper part of the window opening is indicated by the mark plus 2.20. If we subtract plus 80 cm from this mark, we get the height of the window opening, equal to 1.40 m.

The ceiling level is indicated as plus 3.15 and the top of the dormer as plus 3.75. The level of the roof ridge is at 5.35 m and the top of the chimneys is at 6.05 m.

Other marks are given in the sections. For example, the terrace height is 2.40; ceiling height from floor 2.90 m, etc.

The sections of the house are shown in Figure 3. For the house, the rafters are made with a section of 18X6 cm, floor beams - 18X8 cm, etc.

Consider the individual parts of the house.

Rice. 3. Sections of the house (dimensions in cm and m)

The foundation for the outer walls is made of rubble stone in the form of pillars 60X60 cm in size with a laying depth of 70 cm (with a high standing groundwater, the laying depth can reach 120 cm). Internal pillars can be deepened by 50 cm. Buta pillars do not reach the ground level by 10 cm. Above this mark, a plinth is laid out - brick columns of 2X1.5 bricks and between them - a wall of one brick, called a fence. For ventilation of the underground from two opposite sides, two holes are provided in the intake, 14X14 cm in size, but more often 25X25 cm. In the spring they are opened, and in the fall they are closed and insulated. From the inside, the base is insulated with slag, sand, earth, but not clay.

The top of the plinth is leveled with cement mortar, insulated with two or three layers of roofing felt or roofing material (preferably on mastic). A heat-insulating antiseptic material (tow or felt) is laid on the waterproofing, then two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt and on top of all this lining - an antiseptic (antiseptic or bituminous mastic) dry board 5-6 cm thick and 20 cm wide. The lining protects the lower logs of the log house from rotting , and it can be changed when destroyed.

The walls (Fig. 4) are chopped, wooden, made of logs with a cut diameter of 22 cm and hewn to one edge. Insulated from the foundation with a lining, a layer of tow, felt, etc. (2 cm), the lower (setting) crown is made of thicker logs with a trim of two edges (the width of the lower edge is at least 15 cm). From the inside, a thermal bar is strengthened to the lining board; the space between it and the lower crown is filled with tow. A heat-insulating material is placed on the first crown, a second crown, etc. is placed on it. Window and door openings must have a sedimentary gap and be higher (greater) than the height of window or door frames by 1/20 of their height, i.e., by 7–8 cm. due to precipitation (shrinkage of wood, sealing of thermal insulation) they will sag, forming large gaps above the walls. The gaps are filled with tow or felt, and only after complete settlement can a beam be inserted into the gap. In Figure 4, the sediment gap is 7 cm.

Rice. 4. Wall section (dimensions in cm):

1 - sedimentary gap 7 cm; 2 - antiseptic lining board 5 cm thick; 3 - thermal bar; 4 - floor, boards 4 cm thick and logs 16/2 cm; 5 - antiseptic lining board with a thickness of 4-5 cm over the roofing felt in two layers; brick column 25X25 cm; 6 - crushed stone spilled with lime mortar 12 cm thick on compacted soil; 7 - brick base, 8 - compacted crushed stone for clay preparation; 9 - rubble pillar; 10 - felt or tow accepted; 11 - thermal bar