Waterproofing under the frame. Purpose and technology of protection against decay of the lower rims of a wooden house. Waterproofing materials for a log house
The construction of the house takes place in stages. The foundation is laid first. It depends on him how strong and durable the finished building will turn out.
It is important to understand: the foundations of a log, brick or block building are different. Specific gravity wood is lower, therefore, the pressure on the foundation is small. Bases for log cabins are classified into:
screw;
pile;
tape;
columnar.
Each foundation stands out with specific benefits. But disadvantages are not excluded. When choosing a foundation for a log house, it is necessary to take into account such factors: soil quality, proximity ground water, the mass of the building. And, no matter how trite, the material costs of the event.
Pros and cons of screw, pile, strip and column foundations for log cabins
Heaving soil, which is able to freeze deeply, needs to install a strong frame. In this capacity, poles made of different materials are used: from wood to concrete (fbs). The pillars are strengthened at the support points of the log cabin. The advantages of a columnar foundation:
profitability;
comfortable on difficult terrain;
installation speed.
Minuses:
designed for one-story buildings;
cannot be mounted at low temperatures;
unsuitable for loose ground.
When erecting a building with a basement, a tape-type foundation - the best option. It is laid in the form of a solid frame, which is able to hold the overall structure. Benefits of a tape bookmark:
low cost;
even distribution of the log weight;
there is no need to clean the soil under the whole house.
Minuses:
cannot be used on heaving soil;
great labor costs.
How to put a house from a bar on swampy soils? The situation will help to resolve the foundation on piles. This will require experienced craftsmen and considerable labor costs. Justifies itself when:
sharp changes in the terrain;
"floating" soil at the construction site.
The disadvantage of such a foundation is the need for special equipment for installation.
On wet soils, it is advisable to use a screw foundation. A steel pile is taken as the basis. For ease of screwing, it has a screw tip, as well as a wide blade. The diameter of the pile is calculated depending on the complexity and dimensions of the structure being erected. The following factors speak in favor of a screw foundation:
site leveling is not required;
no need for waterproofing
low labor costs;
simplicity and speed of the device.
An unpleasant moment, a minus of the pile-screw foundation will, over time, be the corrosive destruction of the pile. A lot of trouble will also bring subsidence of the foundation due to poor-quality work.
The optimal choice of foundation for a log house: price vs quality
When choosing a foundation, it is fundamentally important to pay attention to such parameters: the composition of the soil, the load and area of \u200b\u200bthe building, the relief of the site. Do not forget about the value for money.
An advantageous solution for the construction small house, dachas, will columnar foundation. A more solid structure, with a perspective, is best placed on a strip foundation. The amount of expenses will be ¼ of all expenses. You will be pleased with the quality and reliability, as well as a good opportunity to build a basement or garage, basement floor.
Labor-intensive, requiring considerable expenses - a pile foundation. The price is justified only in the presence of unreliable soil, where another option cannot be fixed.
The screw foundation is economically beneficial: with minimal cost it turns out a reliable, earthquake-resistant, quickly erected frame under the house. Its cost is lower compared to other types of foundation by half.
Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, a quarter of the costs will go to installation. A reasonable approach and correctly made calculation will reduce costs without sacrificing quality. The price is influenced by:
material used;
the type and size of the building being built;
foundation width;
mounting method.
An important point in the work is waterproofing.
Waterproofing the log house from the foundation
The quality, strength and durability of a log house directly depend on the insulation of the log house from the foundation. Neglect at this stage of construction entails such problems as:
dampness;
cold floor;
the presence of condensation on the walls of the basement;
the formation of mold and fungus.
Pile-grillage foundation
Waterproofing between the log house and the foundation will help to significantly reduce or avoid the above problems. There are two types: anti-filtration and anti-corrosion. The first is used when installing a log house on soils with a high content of chemical elements. The second - directly protects the wood from rot.
Anti-corrosion waterproofing of the log house from the foundation provides for two methods:
coating;
glued.
For the coating method, heated bituminous mastic is required. The finished foundation is carefully smeared in two or three layers. Accordingly, the initial layer should dry well before applying the next one. Then put a log house, plastered in a similar way.
With the glued method, roofing material is used. It is heated and placed between the base of the foundation and the lower crown of the log house. It is advisable to lay three such layers.
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Maximum service life without repairs
The safety of the foundation for a beam without repair depends on the method of assembly and compliance with technical parameters. The strip foundation has proved to be the most durable. Its "life expectancy" reaches 150 years.
The construction of any house begins with laying the foundation, which is usually made of concrete mortar or by laying bricks and blocks. And in order for the elements of the entire structure to last for a long time, waterproofing is laid on the sole and walls of the foundation, which allows protecting the building from premature damage from moisture.
But for wooden house isolation from water should be even more thorough. Here it is worth not only protecting the base of the building from moisture, but also close up the gap resulting from the laying of the log house on the concrete frame of the future wooden house. And besides, the waterproofing of the wooden elements of the log house is also performed. And this always requires additional knowledge and skills.
Before starting construction wooden structure, it is worth taking care of a dry and protected base of the house. This is the primary insulation of the log house from moisture, and the preservation of its durability. This is where the work needs to be done carefully.
Waterproofing the sole of the foundation of a wooden house is carried out according to the following scheme:
- A rolled roofing material is laid on a compacted pillow.
- From above it is poured with hot bitumen (thin layer).
- A second layer of ruberoid is applied.
- Strengthened with a small layer of cement mortar.
Such isolation will cut off water from the ground. They will not touch the base of the foundation, which means they will not be able to harm the elements of the future wooden house.
The second stage creates a vertical waterproofing of the foundation of the building. It is applied to a flat surface of the entire base of the house. Insulation is carried out by coating the walls of the base with hot bitumen or mastics based on liquid rubber or liquid glass. It is better to smear in several layers, leaving no free or untreated space.
If the foundation is made by masonry of blocks or bricks, then the insulation is applied to the pre-plastered surface of the base. This will prevent moisture from coming into contact with the log house.
The third step is waterproofing between the first crown and the foundation of the building. It is easy to create if you follow all the recommendations of experts. After all, the gap that appears between the first crown and the base of the house can be repaired quite qualitatively and firmly with your own hands. Moreover, modern material manufacturers produce many high-quality insulators.
It is easier and cheaper to get by with proven materials that have been used for many decades. This is wet moss, laid in the cracks in several layers. But you can close holes and more modern materials, such as foam, which, when solidified, form a protective barrier that prevents moisture from penetrating inside the structure.
Waterproofing materials for a log house
The waterproofing of the foundation itself, as well as protection that allows you to keep the log house dry, are carried out by several types of materials:
- hot bitumen.
- Anti-corrosion coating.
- Penetrating mastics.
Of course, each insulator is selected in accordance with the parameters of the building material.
So, the log house is processed with special mastics, which are applied to each log or beam separately. And then also on a completely finished structure, as an additional protection. If special materials are not available, then the logs can be coated with used engine oil on their own to protect them from rotting and damage by beetles. Resins are often used for protection, which perfectly serve as an insulator.
The foundation of a wooden house between the base and the first crown is best treated with bituminous mixtures. This will provide good protection and will look more natural. But often such isolation is performed using penetrating mastics, which are available in liquid form. True, after processing, one should not forget about the gap, which is obtained when the log house is laid on the base of the house.
Sealing gaps between the foundation and the first crown
Well, here is the waterproofing of all the main elements of the foundation. The log house is also prepared for laying, as the logs are treated with anti-corrosion materials. It remains only to begin work on the first crown. And now the question is how and how to close the gaps between the laid first crown and the very foundation of the future wooden house.
There are several options for eliminating the hole between the foundation and the first crown:
- caulk with wet moss:
- plug holes with wooden slats, covering the sealed places with decorative elements or ebbs:
- make the log house even from below with the help of construction foam:
- level the log house from below with a concrete solution.
Some of these options are used not only as sealing cracks, but also as additional insulation of wooden structure elements from the penetration of moisture under the walls to the base.
The most difficult and inconvenient way is considered among professionals to seal the hole between the base and the crown using cement mortar. It is very difficult to close the holes completely and tightly.
But with moss, you can easily eliminate all the irregularities that arise during work when the frame is being laid.
Effective ways to seal gaps
There are several methods for sealing the gaps between the plinth and the crown, which are considered the most effective and act as a waterproofing of the lower level of the beams.
The first method is to eliminate holes using small pieces or bars that are suitable in size for the gap. You just need to prepare the material and put the triangular bars in the right places between the crown and the base. And then the insulation is done with moss or tow.
Insulation with the second option involves removing the gap using building foam. In this case, insulation occurs due to a layer of material applied to the hole. But after the foam dries, it should be hidden with a decorative finish.
-> Site sections -> Log house -> Do-it-yourself log house -> The first (folding) crown of the log house.The lower crown works in the most difficult conditions - proximity to the ground, more wet than other crowns during rain and snowfall. Therefore, traditionally, special attention was paid to its manufacture.
Before laying the first (lower) crown of the log house, do not forget about waterproofing, which is 2 - 3 layers of rolled bituminous waterproofing material laid between the foundation and the logs to prevent the walls from getting wet from the foundation.
The first (collar) crown is made from the thickest logs.
If you have such an opportunity, then the first crown is best made from wood species that are most resistant to decay. Larch or oak is best suited for this purpose.
Obviously, sides 1, 3 and 2, 4 are at different horizontal levels, which differ in height by half the diameter of the log. Therefore, the first crown, from which the entire frame begins, can be implemented in two ways.
Despite some inconveniences, such a crown crown will be more durable due to the fact that the logs are minimally processed and remain almost solid.
To prevent rotting of logs of the first crown, special attention must be paid to careful antiseptic treatment of surfaces in contact with waterproofing (hewn surfaces). Before laying, we coat the cut surface with an antiseptic with a brush 3-5 times. By the way, this is the only place in the bath where I used an antiseptic.
Backing boards must not be covered with molten resin (bitumen) or wrapped in roofing material. A tree clogged with resin or wrapped in roofing material will rot very quickly.
Between the waterproofing of the foundation and the backing board, between the backing board and the first crown, an interventional seal is laid.
The process of making an overlay crown is shown in a series of videos salary (first) crown of the log house.
Salary (first) crown of the log house - video technology.
Cover crown. Part 2. Teska logs |
An important aspect in the field wooden construction is to prevent constant contact of wood with water. Weather precipitation is excluded, because rain and snow are short-term phenomena and the absorbency of a log or timber depends more on the care of the owner himself. It is he who will have to foresee everything and take measures in advance to process wooden elements. However, there is such a section of the house that will always have a risk of interaction with water - this is the foundation and protecting it is the most important task of the owner.
Types of waterproofing
The laid waterproofing between the foundation and the log house has two types:
- Antifiltration. Designed for aggressive environments and capricious soils. Often found in soil a large number of chemical elements dissolved there, which can affect the composition of the foundation and have an adverse effect, slowly destroying it.
- Anti-corrosion. The condition of the wood directly depends on it - the waterproofing layer should not allow rot and, as a result, the rest of the damage.
Features of waterproofing works
Consider the first option, which must be laid before pouring concrete. Then there will be no point. The owner must understand this at the stage of determining the soil and the foundation model for construction.
The main stages and features of waterproofing with your own hands:
1. When the ditches and formwork are ready, a layer of sand should be poured to the bottom and carefully compacted, spilling several times with water. Then crushed stone is poured over it and also rammed. Together, both layers should not be less than 30 cm.
Only then are the remaining layers of the foundation cushion laid, and everything is poured with concrete. What is the point? Sand will serve as a filter for groundwater and, when raised, will have a retarding effect on the chemical elements dissolved in it.
Video: Waterproofing a log house with birch bark
And the water itself will not stay in it for a long time. This should be taken into account by owners whose houses are located near industrial enterprises, car parks, farms and other things. Waste products will definitely end up in the soil, and who knows how it will behave when it meets the foundation.
Video: Closing the gap between the log house and the foundation
2. The second option is familiar in understanding - wood should not come into contact with water. Waterproofing a log house from the foundation is done by creating layers between two different surfaces. This process has several ways - coating, glued and gasket.
- For the first, bituminous mastic or liquid resin is used. Having brought them to the state of paint, the prepared foundation, freed from the formwork, is smeared very carefully, leaving no white spots. The work is carried out in several layers after the previous one dries.
- The next method is glued. For it, roofing material is used, which is also heated and tightly applied to the surface of the foundation. One layer is not enough. Two - for sure, three according to the state of the soil.
- The third way, in which the waterproofing of the foundation under the log house will last almost forever, involves the use of progressive means of protection from the current industry.
We are talking about styrenes. Polystyrene derivatives are the best moisture protectors today. How to apply them:
In a compacted ditch around the perimeter of the walls of the entire foundation, sheets of foam, expanded polystyrene or extruded derivative material are laid. You can fasten them “on the zhivulka”, all the same, the filling and fittings will press as it should. Thus, the entire base is processed.
There is a nuance, when digging, you need to take into account the thickness of the material immediately and make the appropriate width. It also happens when negligent owners do not immediately think about waterproofing, then the work will be complicated by the fact that a place is being dug near the finished foundation for inserting slabs of material, which will also serve as insulation.But before that, the surface must be dried from moisture and tarred, and while the bitumen is hot, it is convenient to glue the plates. Needless to say, the first crown is also smeared in this case.
This is how the foundation is waterproofed. You can combine insulation and protection from moisture using the third method for this - laying styrenes, then the cost of Additional materials will be reduced, which will reduce the cost of self-construction.
Waterproofing of a residential log house and a bath
Moisture protection is required not only for the foundation - the living quarters also need it. For this, laying a kind of pie is provided - in addition to warming, layers of hydro and vapor barrier are laid both inside and outside. However, this is intended for residential log cabins that do not require cladding.
If the waterproofing of the log house occurs in this way and closes the rounded log, there is no longer any point in buying decorative material. What to do in this case? On the outside, only impregnation and sealing will help. The inner side can be layered and decorated with wooden elements - block house, clapboard.Bath - the most "wet" room. Moreover, all its premises are in constant contact with the steam. And you can’t impregnate, with the exception of especially advanced formulations or oil waste.
There is only one way out - the bath should have good ventilation and water flow. To do this, the floor is made in such a way that it is a concrete cushion at an angle.
Video: Finalization of the foundation for the crown crown. Do-it-yourself felling. Part 7/4
The height of the clean coating in this case should be at a decent distance from it. Impregnation, so that the waterproofing of the log cabin of the bath is at the level, is mandatory, but only with the appropriate marking, otherwise it will not heal anyone.
Probably, everyone will guess what a hand-made structure is waiting for if nothing is done to protect it from moisture. How long it will stand no one knows, because the real owners will never allow this.Attention, only TODAY!
Vertical (lateral) coating, built-up, glued, plaster waterproofing strip foundation and anti-corrosion coating of screw piles is a separate issue. Equally important is the barrier to prevent moisture from the foundation, dew and rainwater (accumulating on its horizontal surface) from affecting half-logs and the lower crowns of a house or bath. It is not easy to replace which, when decaying (in advanced cases, up to window sills). Sexual logs are usually sawn into the lower crowns. If spoiled + complete bulkhead of the entire floor with insulation. Therefore, they are ventilated with products in a reinforced tape. And on top of it they make a horizontal cut-off moisture insulation of the log house from the foundation.
For these purposes, rolled waterproofing is laid on the foundation base (above-ground part) - Ruberoid (RP ...) or modern Stekloizol (... PP). The latter is preferable. Fiberglass in its composition is superior in water-repellent properties to fragile cardboard, sprinkled with asbestos and impregnated with bitumen as part of the roofing material. There is no specific smell. For horizontal waterproofing of the bottom of the log house from alien wood artificial materials foundation roll material is laid on 2 layers at least. Under the weight of an array of wood, it fills in irregularities on the surface of the foundation. To prevent the formation of dew at the joint different materials, between the log house and the moisture insulation, an additional board is placed.
The underlay board serves to redistribute the load from the log house to the foundation. And most importantly - it works as part of a complex waterproofing.
Strip foundation, as a rule, is wider than logs. On the ledge of the foundation isolated by Stekloizol, thawed and rainwater accumulates. The dew drops out. Moisture remains until dry. There is an opinion: the lower crowns of a log house made of larch do not need a lining board. Not true. Any log house needs cut-off moisture insulation. Until the lining board rots, the mortgage crown will not begin to deteriorate. A wide larch backing board is a reliable smart solution. Pine/spruce won't last long. Because a wide board is usually sawn from the middle of a tree, the sound part is durable only in larch.
There is no need to isolate the board between the frame and the foundation. But, it will be necessary to caulk this place in a year.
It is desirable to make the basement of the foundation higher. Rain splashes ricochet from the ground into the log house. Reduces spray ricochet outward slope of the foundation blind area. The basement is preferable / cheaper to make brick. From silicate brick. Red ceramic is prettier, but tolerates moisture worse. Capillary suction of moisture by the foundation from the soil is regular. It is also necessary to waterproof brick from concrete. There are enough materials for waterproofing now. Not like in the old days: molten pine resin + birch bark as a "roll" waterproofing.