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Transformers can be called not only large robots from the well-known series of science fiction films of the same name, but also home furniture. In a way, folding sofa is also a transformer, because with a slight movement of the hand it can be turned, for example, into a spacious double bed.

Transformers in the full sense of the word are now commonly called other types of furniture, with much more functionality. Such models can combine two or even three completely different types furniture. For example, a wardrobe-bed, a chair-table, a sofa-bunk bed. Such furniture is often called smart-furniture or smart furniture.

Smart furniture models are very convenient to use in small apartments or children's rooms, when you want to have a full-fledged sofa, table, bed, but at the same time save as much free space as possible.

The article will discuss how to assemble a bed table (a transformer that is very popular now) with your own hands.

Table-bed

This type of furniture is especially relevant for children's rooms. First of all, two pieces of furniture are combined in one, significantly saving space, which is so necessary for a child. In addition, the child will undoubtedly like such an unusual bed.

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A complex composite mechanism that connects the bed frame and the table allows you to easily transform the structure into two positions - a bed and a table. In practice, moving from one position to another turns out to be much easier than spreading out a sofa book.

The price of quality transformers from manufacturers is quite high. But with certain skills in working with wood and tools such as a drill and a screwdriver, as well as patience and diligence, it is quite possible to assemble a smart bed on your own.

Making a regular bed with your own hands is not difficult. If you already have experience in making home furniture, this is very good. But we must remember that we are collecting two different pieces of furniture, connected by a rather complex transformation mechanism. So this is where experience comes in handy. self assembly folding sofas.

By the way, it is also much easier to assemble a separate transformer table with your own hands. The main difficulty lies in correct installation a transformation mechanism, without which the table-bed cannot function.

Drawings and diagrams

To assemble a table bed with a transformer function with your own hands, be sure to use the drawings. As with the assembly of any other furniture, even the most ordinary chair, the scheme must be thought out in advance.

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Fortunately, you can find a plan and drawing of furniture of almost any design, including transformational ones. Therefore, to implement the project of your own table-bed, choose the appropriate option on our website. Another plus is that all models of table-bed transformers are based on one scheme. Models differ only in additional items (the presence of tables on the sides, additional shelves, cabinets). You can later add the necessary elements to any table-bed.

The standard size of the table-bed frame is 2066-2150 mm in length, width / depth (including the protruding part of the table-bed) - 1000-1060 mm, height - 1800 mm.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of a table-bed can be used different materials, depending on your preferences and financial capabilities. But it is better to focus on (L) chipboard or MDF. The first material (laminated chipboard) is cheaper, the second (fine wood particle board) is more expensive, more reliable and easier to work with. The thickness of the plates must be at least 20 mm. It is from them that the main frame is made, as well as a bench and a table.

As a back wall, you can use ordinary plywood, or use nothing at all, because the structure should be placed against the wall (or even better, fixed to the wall, just like cabinets are attached).

The main material is a transformation mechanism, which is called the transformer table-bed mechanism 591. It can be purchased at specialized stores or ordered from suppliers. The average price ranges from three and a half to four thousand rubles.

Table-bed mechanism transformer 591

The mechanism consists of:

• paired units of power traction (they are the ones who raise and lower the tabletop and bench);
• two gas springs (or gas lifts - help us raise and lower the table-bed and fix the parts in the final position);
• paired cotter pins, nuts and washers (for fastening the mechanism to the body of the table-bed);
• slats, bushings, pads, locking units (fix the table and bed in the unfolded / folded position);
• set of screws.

In addition, you will need a set of standard tools - a drill, a screwdriver, a jigsaw.

Assembly order

Following the drawings and diagrams, prepare all parts of the frame, table and bed. Only after that, the main frame is assembled, fixing the transformation mechanism on it. Be extremely careful and careful.

For convenience, assembly is best done by two people. At the very least, you will definitely need an assistant to fix the power traction units with bushings (this process will require significant physical effort).

Among the most common pieces of furniture that are called transformers, it is worth noting a retractable podium bed. This piece of furniture can help save space. And you can make it yourself, but before starting work, you have to choose the most suitable design option.

A transforming bed is very convenient not only in small rooms, but also in large ones, because thanks to its transformation, it is able to turn a room into a living room or a rest room during the day, and into a bedroom at night.

One of its varieties is based on a podium with a mattress located on it, while inside there is a place for linen and bedding. Another option is a podium, folded and not at all reminiscent of a bed. In its lower part there is a retractable bed. The frame of such furniture can be made of timber. The middle cross bar and outer panels are cut from a 22 mm board. On fig. 1 you can see the drawing, which shows the installation diagram of the structure and its dimensions.

Detailing with decoding

Detailing of the bed, all dimensions are in millimeters (board 22 mm):

• A - outer part of the side block - 1910x330;
• B, C - headboard and outer backrest (2 pcs.) - 1650x330;
• D - side elements of the upper side (2 pcs.) - 1932x150;
• E - rear element of the upper side - 1710x150;
• F - external slats of drawers (2 pcs.) - 953x320;
• G - transverse middle bar - 1910x100;
• H - side elements of the back (2 pcs.) - 330x100.

Figure 1. Scheme of a double bed with drawers.

Detailing the walls of the boxes (board 16 mm):

• I - elements for the far walls (2 pcs.) - 778x240;
• J - elements for side walls (4 pcs.) - 760x240.

Detailing of the internal parts of the blocks (chipboard 19 mm):

• K - element for internal panels located on the side of the block (1 pc.) - 1910x330;
• L - element for the inner panels of the back - 1606x330;
• M - elements of the middle component (2 pcs.) - 1479x272;
• N - transverse parts of the middle block (4 pcs.) - 272x142;
• - transverse parts of the back and side component (2 pcs.) - 330x81.

As for detailing the bottom of the boxes, they will have to use 10 mm plywood to get 2 elements with dimensions 788x748 (P). The transverse side planks should be made of a beam with a cross section equal to 27x27 mm, while the beam 27x47 mm will go to the supports where the mattress will be located. A drawing drawn up on the basis of the presented detailing will allow you to properly cut and assemble the bed.

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Assembling a transforming bed

Necessary tools and materials:

• beam;
• board;
• wing nuts;
• bolts;
• drill;
• glue;
• clamp;
• screws.

This transformer furniture must be made of 3 components that form the basis of the bed. On fig. 2 you can see the assembly of the main components of the bed.

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening the guides.

The back and side component must be mated at a right angle. The third element divides the base into 2 parts, in which roll-out structures will be located.

The main components with the headboard are preferably fixed with wing nuts and bolts with nuts. This will allow you to get a collapsible design.

Blocks must be mounted with 8 mm pins. For them, it is worth drilling holes with a drill. The joints of the block elements should be treated with glue, and after that, until it sets, the structure should remain under pressure.

The middle block is the shortest, and 4 spacers hold it. In the upper part of its two panels, it is necessary to equip the recesses through which the transverse middle bar will pass. They need to give dimensions equal to 100x22 mm.

When assembling, from the inside side of the main component located on the side, backs and headboards, it is necessary to install horizontally fixed bars with a section of 47 × 27 mm. This work can be done with screws and glue. After you can proceed to the installation of support bars. They need to be installed so that there are 3 bars on the back and headboard: one of them should be located in the center, the other two on the sides. On the side of the located block, you will need to use two bars, which will be placed close to each other, where the central component is fixed.

The bars must be supplemented with grooves designed for the middle transverse bar. Holes of 4.5 mm should also be prepared for screws.

On the side of the withdrawable systems, insert and fix the T-shaped stops. Their use is due to the need to support parallel crossbars located in front.

The transformer structure on each wall of the withdrawable element must be supplemented with grooves, the depth of which is 5 mm, and a 10 mm cutter should be used. They will be needed to install the plywood bottom. It is necessary to arrange the grooves depending on the height of the roller wheels.

A gap of 10 mm should be left from the bottom of the withdrawable element to the floor surface. Their walls must be mated using flat spikes in the process, which must be placed in the grooves. The front surface of the drawers should protrude beyond their side walls by 40 mm and by 103 mm in its center.

On the walls of the boxes located on the side, you need to install a 13 × 13 mm bar. Rails must be installed on both sides of the middle block. And on the back and headboard it is necessary to strengthen along the backing bar with dimensions of 47x27 mm, only after that it is worth strengthening the guides on them. This will eliminate the possibility that the guide groove will overlap with bars.

Before starting work, drawings should be drawn up, which can be submitted to the workshop for cutting blanks.

In spite of big choice finished furniture, many people spend a lot of time and effort looking for a suitable wardrobe or bed. Through the "sieve of doubt" various models are sieved, differing from each other in design, color and size, but nothing fits. This is exactly the problem faced by the user of our site with the nickname avamonster, and a makeshift bed was for him a great way out of the "furniture impasse." In this article we are making a bed together with our user!

An overview of the models of lifting beds.
- What tools and materials are needed to make a bed.
- Operating procedure.

DIY bed

avamonster FORUMHOUSE user

I need a transforming bed in the house, which can be quickly and easily put into a closet against the wall. When folded, the front part of such a bed should be completely identical to the “facade” of a regular wardrobe. Therefore, there should not be any protruding handles, protruding legs, etc. outside. Such a bed should not take up much space. When unfolded, the “transformer” should turn into a full-functional bed designed for comfortable sleep, and not a guest “crib”.

Having shoveled the Internet, reviewed dozens of schemes and sketches of beds and traveled to several furniture stores, the forum member could not find a model that would fully satisfy his needs. Namely:

• Need a transformer standard size mattress 1600x2000x150 mm, like a normal sofa; The height of the unfolded bed should not exceed 45-55 cm;
• The width of the transforming bed is equal to: the width of the mattress (1600 mm) plus the thickness of the side walls of the cabinet, made of chipboard. That is, approximately 1632 mm. The depth of the bed is equal to the depth of the cabinet - 450 mm. When unfolded, the length of the bed should not exceed 2100-2200 mm;
• In open position folding bed should fit well into the interior of the apartment, and not look like the simplest analogue of a "cot". Should be easy and quick to clean;
• The unfolded bed should not take up much space in the house and prevent free movement around the room, opening adjacent cabinets, lockers, drawers etc;
• Safety: the bed should not have sharp corners that you can hit with your foot, hidden cavities and crevices where pets or small children can climb. Gas lift or opening mechanism springs should not be located near the sleeper's head;
• "Human" price tag.

We present a selection of photos of those folding beds that the forum member viewed, and also give his comments on why this or that model did not suit him.

A cursory glance at this picture is enough to understand that this is not a simple closet, but a closet into which they managed to build a “clamshell”. It would be better if they didn’t build it in - slots are visible from below and from above, and the handles are located very inconveniently.

This lifting model when folded is no different from a regular wardrobe, but once it is unfolded, the bed blocks access to cabinets and drawers. This means that it must constantly be removed and lowered, which is very inconvenient.

Wardrobe bed option with sliding doors. This model does not take up much space, and when folded, it is indistinguishable from a standard cabinet. The main inconvenience is the great depth of the "transformer" - 80 cm. You will have to sleep, practically lying with your head and shoulders in the closet. Not everyone will like it. So this "guest" option also disappeared.

A typical model that can often be seen in stores. She did not suit Avamonster with the fact that, instead of springs or a gas lift, the bed is removed with a counterweight. When it leans back, you can see that the bottoms are similar to the legs from the "clamshell". And the price exceeds 40 thousand rubles.

Another common option. Avamonster's main complaints about this folding bed are: legs stick out from above, like "antennae", and when open, the mattress lies inside the bed frame. Passing next to such a bed, you can accidentally touch your foot on its sharp corner. A block with springs hangs next to the head, and by the "tram" handles you can immediately determine that this is not an ordinary cabinet, but a "transformer".

avamonster FORUMHOUSE user

All the models that I saw in the store had a construct: "a box knocked down from chipboard or plywood, in which a mattress is simply embedded." It didn't suit me. I happened to be in the USA, where I saw a different construct: the frame is “inside” the base under the mattress, and the mattress itself is slightly wider than the base. The springs or gas lift are under the mattress, and do not stick out in front of the face. It seems to me that this option is safer and more convenient to use.

There is also an option with a double caterpillar bed, but such "transformers" are expensive and do not often catch the eye.

The search for a ready-made folding bed was unsuccessful, but a negative result is also a result. As a result of his ordeals, avamonster finally decided on the list of requirements for the product and therefore decided to assemble the bed himself.

This two-in-one option is also interesting, but this do-it-yourself double bed project is much more difficult to implement at home.

Material needed to assemble a transforming bed

Looking ahead, let's say that the forum member managed to assemble a double bed, which is no different and even superior to industrial or custom-made samples. The width of the "transformer" is 1640 mm, the length in the unfolded state is 2130 mm, the height is 500 mm.

According to avamonster, sketchup helped him achieve the success of the project and do everything right the first time, without numerous reworks and changes. Having spent three months studying the program from “0”, after sitting over the drawings and dimensions, the forum member sketched out virtual models of the crib and diagrams of its nodes that can be twisted on the monitor screen (see pictures).

This approach has avoided many mistakes. After all, many novice craftsmen often forget the main building saying: "measure seven times, cut once." An attempt to turn everything into metal at once, without plans, drawings and competent calculation of several options, leads to damage to the material due to constant changes in the design of the product.

A do-it-yourself bed is made from simple materials and does not require special tools for its manufacture.

What is needed to make a product

• Chipboard sheets - 1580x995x16 mm. Sawing to size, and edging of the ends of the plates was done "on the side". It took 12 thousand rubles;

• Tailor-made springs for the lifting mechanism. Those. spring parameters: rod diameter - 4 mm, outer diameter - 36 mm, number of turns - 30. Spring length with hooks - 18 cm. Stroke - 21 cm. Force applied -55 kg. The parameters of the spring, which depend on the "shoulder" of the lever and the total weight of the bed, the forum member calculated in a special calculator. A set of 5 parts cost avamonster 3.5 thousand rubles;

• DIY bed frame profile pipe with dimensions of 4x2 cm. The wall thickness of the frame pipe is 2 mm. In total, 18 meters of such a pipe were purchased. The pipe was sawn to size into elements on the spot so that it could be brought home in an ordinary "passenger car". It took another 1.5 thousand rubles;

avamonster

Because I do not have welding machine, then I had to drill holes in the pipes for the mounting bolts. This greatly complicated the task of assembling the bed-wardrobe. The best option- it's all to weld yourself or give it to a locksmith's workshop to order, otherwise I also had to clean the pipes from rust. I pasted over the surfaces of all visible metal parts of the pipes with wood-like film.

• Hardware. The do-it-yourself bed was assembled with bolts, nuts and screws. The self-made frame for strength and rigidity was twisted into corners for M6 bolts. All bolted connections were also calculated for the shear load. The forum member spent another 4 thousand rubles for all the necessary fasteners.

How to assemble a transforming bed yourself: the main steps

Mattress base ( chipboard sheets) was screwed to a homemade frame with special drill-tipped self-tapping screws. Such self-tapping screws have a “drill” at the end: chipboard should be passed large diameter, steel - smaller, and already at the finish in the tree, a recess under the head of the self-tapping screw is countersinked. Thus, in one step, the chipboard board is attracted to the metal frame without pre-drilling it.

The design of the frame is designed so that the soft mattress is the widest part of the crib. In this case, it is impossible to hit your foot on the hard protruding edge of the frame.

Furniture-transformer for small apartment- the ability to organize a comfortable and convenient living space, despite the lack of space. Such furniture allows not only to unload the space, but also to make it more functional by combining several zones of different purposes on the same area. The theme of transforming furniture has always been relevant - mass urban development did not indulge its owners with large apartments, therefore different kinds roll-out (folding out) sofas as well as various options tables-books have become a familiar attribute of urban apartments. But, thanks to technical evolution and design creativity, today there are designs that can not only radically change their shape, but also look very attractive and aesthetically pleasing.

Wardrobe-bed-transformer: a definite gain in area

Where and how to place a bed is the most problematic moment for owners of small-sized two- and one-room apartments. Partially, the problem can be solved by a sofa bed - the most famous and common example of transforming furniture with a folding or moving part. However, recently transformers of the type " wardrobe bed". When assembled, they are just a cabinet, the facade of which is made taking into account the stylistic features of the design of the room. Special lifting mechanism allows you to quickly expand a full bed.

A bed in a closet, compared with a sofa bed, has several advantages:

• compactness - in terms of area, the drawer-wardrobe where the bed is removed takes significantly less space (less than one square place) than the sofa, because the main usable area of ​​the bed in the assembled state is located in height along the wall
• this bed does not have joints that are formed when the sofa is unfolded
• the basis of the design metal carcass and slats (they enhance the orthopedic effect), on which an orthopedic mattress is placed - in combination, this ensures a healthy sleep without undue stress on the spine
• no need for additional laundry box- it is fixed with special straps and removed inside the closet, so that in the evening you don’t even have to make the bed.

Built-in folding bed can be single, and complete double. At the same time, double, rather bulky beds are equipped with a vertical folding mechanism, while single beds are horizontal, which makes it possible to place various shelves or decorative elements above the niche. In the latter case, the unfolded bed will resemble a sofa set tightly against the wall. In addition, such a bed can be decorated under a closed shelf or chest of drawers. To make the rest as comfortable as possible, built-in Spotlights which will provide sleeping area illumination of the required intensity. The wardrobe-bed itself can include not only a compartment in which the bed is laid, but also compartments for storing necessary things.