Making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands, the subtleties of the process. Folding bed with your own hands Is it possible to make a lifting mechanism for the bed

AT modern apartments often there is not enough space, and a do-it-yourself bed with a lifting mechanism can help a little in this matter. It will have enough space for storing clothes and bedding so that they don't take up too much space when you're awake.

A bed with a lifting mechanism is quite practical, as it can store things.

The very base of the bed and its side and end mechanisms can be made of any material. Popular are various types of natural wood, chipboard, laminate with a film that imitates various materials. Whether she will lean on her legs or stand on the floor with the whole frame does not matter much and depends solely on the preferences of the owners. A double bed without legs makes cleaning easier, as a lot of dust accumulates under the legs.

Materials and tools

The most affordable and inexpensive material for making a bed is chipboard.

The manufacture of any furniture, even not as complex as that which is supplemented by a lifting mechanism, begins with the drawing up of drawings, the selection of materials and the preparation of tools. A material that is easy to process, inexpensive and affordable is sheet chipboard, from which most of all furniture is currently made. OSB or oriented strand board can also be used. An array of wood will require large financial investments, but working with it is not difficult and can be done by hand. Most of work will be related to the processing of wood, and therefore the appropriate tool will be required:

• electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver and a set of bits to it;
• welding machine;
• grinder with a disk for metal;
• roulette;
• level;
• marker, pencil;
• steel strips;
• upholstery fabric;
• foam rubber;
• furniture stapler;
• building hair dryer.

Before making a bed equipped with a lifting mechanism, it is required to find out the optimal dimensions of the product. By standards, the length of the beds is 2 meters, and the width depends on the desire of the owner and ranges from 0.9 to 2 m. It is the width that affects the strength required from the lifting mechanism, since the larger the width, the higher the weight of the mattress being lifted.

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Mounting the lifting mechanism

This mechanism is of paramount importance, since it is he who allows you to raise the top of the bed, gaining access to the hollow lower part, equipped with storage. Most often it consists of a set of steel strips assembled into a structure similar to a frame on movable joints and equipped with pneumatic shock absorbers.

The top bar is attached to the bottom of the sleeping surface lattice frame. In order to fix it in this position, it is necessary to make a bar from angle-rolled steel or fittings of similar strength. Two more slats are the basis of the lift, which must be installed on the bed frame parts. The next pair of slats will adjust the height to which the mattress slat rises and also keep it up when needed. The lower support bar, in order to facilitate the movement of the hinged supports, has deviations in shape from the angle of the plane in those places where the hinges are attached to it.

All parts of such a mechanism, which are made for the bed with their own hands, must have high performance strength. The load when using the lifting mechanism is distributed not only on the slats and the shock absorber, but also on the attachment points, mounting hardware, with which the mechanism is connected to the bed. If you cannot find suitable tools or materials for the manufacture of a lifting mechanism, you can purchase it at furniture fittings stores or even make custom sizes to order.

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Additional frame

To increase the strength of the bed with a lifting mechanism, it is necessary to make a steel frame.

The strength of any bed can be enlarged with a specially made steel frame. With bed sizes from double and above, this has the same great importance, as for custom-shaped beds. The frame is made from the same steel profile as the lifting mechanism, or a slightly larger section. Overall dimensions must be pre-designed in accordance with the design, sawing the profile into blanks is carried out using a grinder. The parts are connected with a neat weld.

It is imperative to install transverse racks between the longitudinal and transverse elements in the corners of their connection, which will add strength to the structure and prevent it from folding under loads during operation. Further work on making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands involves finishing the ends of the frame of the future product. From the material chosen for this purpose, workpieces are cut out to size and fastened to the welded finished frame bolts or screws. The legs are attached to the corners of the resulting shape, if they are provided according to the product plan. Mobility, which facilitates the movement of the product during the cleaning process, is provided by wheels attached to the bottom of the legs. If the legs are not provided by the design, the wheels can be mounted directly on the frame.

The bed with the folding mechanism is a transformable design. The product, if necessary, is modified into a cabinet, a furniture wall, helping to save space in small apartments. The design is convenient to use, compact, technologically advanced, provides quality rest. Folding bed with your own hands - a budget option. Self-assembly reduces the cost of the product, allows you to develop an author's design, add details (shelves, mirrors, etc.).

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Types of folding beds

Designs with a folding mechanism are multifunctional, because. combine several pieces of furniture. Manufacturers produce beds combined with a wardrobe, with a sofa or a shelving unit. There are designs that transform into a cabinet.

A bed with a folding mechanism, built into the closet, allows you to accommodate a single bed or a double Euro-format bed. Options have been developed that hide 2 separate beds. The doors of the simulated cabinet can swing open or slide apart.

Models of beds combined with a wardrobe and a sofa are ergonomic and allow you to equip a place for daytime relaxation. The design is roomy, so only double format models are produced. A bed with a sofa is more expensive than other transformers.

The design with the folding mechanism can be modified in a curbstone. In the disassembled state, the product is a sleeping bed, and during the day it makes room for a study. The model is budgetary, because does not require a powerful lifting device.

Placing a folding bed on the balcony is an ergonomic solution for small studios. But to organize a place of rest, you will need to insulate the room.

Folding beds can be with one or more tiers. More common products are single. Designs with 2 tiers are used in the arrangement of rooms for children and adolescents.

According to the method of opening, the models are divided into 2 groups: transverse-folding (horizontal) and longitudinally-folding (vertical).

The vertical rise bed is popular in small apartments. The sleeping bed is fixed perpendicular to the wall surface. The model is not limited in length and width. The size range is represented by single, one and a half and double products. The designs are massive and not intended for children's rooms.

Horizontal lift beds are suitable for narrow spaces with low ceilings. Designs are optimal for attics and children's rooms, because. take up minimal space even when unfolded. Products can be disguised as bookcases and shelves.

Types of fasteners

3 types of folding mechanisms for transforming beds have been developed: manual, spring, gas.

There are no elements in the manual device that facilitate the lifting of the bed, so physical effort is required during operation. The mounting structure is simple, reliable and budget. However, the mechanism is not suitable for children's bedrooms.

The design on springs is universal, with affordable price. Twisted spirals are used in the lifting mechanism. The manufacturer issues a guarantee for the system from 3 to 5 years. During the operation of the bed, it is required to inspect and control the condition of the springs.

The gas mechanism is the most functional, reliable, durable. The device does not require physical effort during operation, because. the bed is raised by gas lifts. The power of the mechanism is selected depending on the dimensions of the structure, the weight of the mattress. The manufacturer's warranty on the devices is 10 years. The cost of the mechanism is high.

Fasteners are selected taking into account the dimensions of the bed. The configuration of the room and the availability of free space affect the choice of a horizontal or vertical type of lifting.

The power of the gas mechanism is selected taking into account operating conditions. Some devices have a load limit, so you need to consider the weight of the bed and mattress when choosing a wall mounting system. Complete with mechanisms, amplifiers and blockers are implemented to protect against arbitrary operation of the device.

Folding bed drawings

In production, you can use schemes with standard parameters. Custom design is also possible. You can design furniture according to drawings designed for dimensions, room configuration and required functionality. The product can be supplemented with a chest of drawers, drawers, shelves, including them in the drawing.

A typical design should be built using the parameters of the bed base, cabinet frame, lifting mechanism, decor elements. It is required to fix the box to the wall, based on the dimensions displayed on the dimensional and assembly drawings. It is important to accurately carry out the mounting scheme of the power element, taking into account the thickness of the mechanism, the height and width of the bed, the thickness of the sides, etc. You want to display main fastening lines in drawings.

Self-assembly of the structure

Before you make a folding bed, you need to prepare a set of tools, raw materials, elements and installation schemes. Will be required wooden beam under the frame edged boards for crossbeams, and for sidewalls and headboard - furniture boards. The kit includes plywood sheets, loops for attaching the structure to the wall, bars for the legs. The set of tools includes a tape measure, a level and a square, an electric jigsaw, a set of screwdrivers and screwdrivers, a drill, and a grinder.

Assembly work is carried out on a smooth surface. At each stage, it is required to check the perpendicularity of the corners using a square. A typical design involves the assembly of an internal mechanism, a sleeping surface, facade walls, handles, belts for fixing bedding and a mattress.

Do-it-yourself vertical bed

The design of the vertical lift includes a box, a sleeping surface, and a lifting device. For the type of fastening, the strength of the walls is important, concrete or brick panels are preferred.

Work begins with the assembly of the frame, the dimensions of which are affected by the size of the sleeping bed. The main components of the box: vertical and horizontal walls, rear panel, thrust shelf and plinth. The depth of the frame is determined taking into account the thickness of the mattress, 32 cm is added to the indicator. For a furniture box, the width of the mattress is important, to which 16 cm is added. The details of the box are fastened with self-tapping screws, the elements located on the facade are glued.

Then they assemble a place to sleep, which consists of sidewalls, a headboard, a slatted base. The mattress is attached to the loops of belts. The box and bed are connected by a lifting mechanism to self-tapping screws. Completed the installation of parts. Shelves are mounted on the sides of the box, cabinets for linen are installed below.

What do you do with old furniture?

The understanding came that there was no strength to sleep on a folding sofa-corner. The sofa is old (8 years old!!!), the filler is washed out in places, the back feels hard bumps and hurts in the morning.

To begin with, I decided to drive with my wife - to look at shops and fairs bed + orthopedic mattress. We decided on the size of the bed - 1400 x 2000. This is also suitable for the subsequent layout of the room.

The bedroom set (bed, wardrobe, bedside tables, etc.) does not suit us, because. small bedroom - 9m2. All that's left is just a bed.

The prices were different - from 6500 rubles. (chipboard + plywood) up to 50,000 and above.

Liked something like this:

only without the headboard. (Soft sides without sharp corners + simplicity ... in short, I liked it!)

The price of such a bed (without a lifting mechanism) is about 15,000 rubles. You can put an elevator in the bed you like (another + 12000). Total - 27,000 rubles.

The lifting mechanism was needed, because. the apartment is small and the presence of additional compartments for various things is a resolved issue.

I decided to make a bed myself (no experience, but I know how to work with a tool).

An orthopedic base was found for 4,500 rubles.

Transformation system - elevator: 1200 rubles.

I sketched out a sketch, thought out how everything would be arranged. I calculated approximately the lumber and went in search of boards for the sidewalls and legs. ( Important: Whole boards required size no. You need to buy a grooved board (windowsill or something similar). Without knowing it, I bought floorboard with veneer for gluing (thickness - 35 mm, width - 150 mm) based on three boards per side. For the legs I took a bar 100 x 100 mm. When buying, all the boards and timber were cut to size.

At home, I picked up and glued (Carpenter's glue based on PVA) three boards each: Long side - 2010 mm, short side - 1420 + 35 + 35 = 1490 mm. (I first figured out with what gap the gas lift works - about 10 mm from the lifting bar to the wall of the bed to which the gas lift is attached. Hence 1420 mm). 35mm - board thickness.

The minus of the floorboard is that it has a slight curvature - a “propeller” (take a window sill - it is straight). For this, I chose and adjusted for a long time - which boards would stand up.

As a result, I picked up and glued 4 boards. Board size: L1=L2=2010mm, L3=L4=1490mm.

Because the orthopedic base rests on 4 corners and a longitudinal plane in the middle, glued another board, which will serve as a support for the base. L5=2010mm

Leg size: L1=L2=L3=L4=450mm. The beam was damp and therefore slightly cracked while drying. But this did not affect the process and quality. It is important to let the wood dry. The bed was made slowly, so there was time for the legs to dry.

The sides of the bed had to be rounded off. It was done in two steps: 1 - with an electric jigsaw at an angle of 45 °; 2 - with a belt grinder (by eye).

Next, all sides of the bed were assembled with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. The difficulty was that three boards turned out to be almost straight, and one of the sides (it was supposed to be placed with this side to the wall) was a “prpeller”. According to this, the “straight” sides were first attached:

Coming to the 4th corner, we have this curvature:

The board with effort shifted in size and fastened long self-tapping screw at the end of the board:

At the bottom of this corner, too, not all is well:

Due to the fact that the bottom of the board was pulled to the side due to the “propeller”, a wedge was placed. From the outside, the protruding board was simply cut off.

The corners were rounded using the same technology: (holes for attaching the legs are visible)

Since there are metal corners in the corners inside the bed base, there was a need for additional processing of the legs (grooves with a belt grinder):

Leg holes were measured and drilled. The height of the legs is the same as the width of the sidewalls. Offset legs down 60mm.

Trial installation of legs:

All screws are in place: (At the top there is a place for an orthopedic base + a side for mattress stability)

Pieces of linoleum were glued to the ends of the legs (top and bottom). From below so as not to scratch the floor, and from above for an orthopedic base:

After gluing the overlays, I glued and wrapped the legs with upholstery material, and fixed the edges with a stapler. Cut out holes for mounting screws:

I put the bed and figured out how the orthopedic base would fit:

Something like this will open on the elevators. There is no support board under the middle of the base yet. It moves down like the legs - by 60 mm.

Let's move on to the sides of the bed. First foam rubber S-10mm:

This is the underside of the side of the bed. Foam rubber comes from the edge of the board, because. inside the base there will be slats to support the plywood base of the boxes. The foam rubber is glued to the sides.

This is one of the corners. The foam is turned, cut and nailed with a stapler.

From above, the foam rubber is nailed with an overlap of about 3-4 mm.

When joining the foam rubber, an insert was used in place and by eye (it will not be noticeable):

This is how the board around the leg was trimmed. Bottom view:

(This is just that leg, in a crooked corner. This thickening is a wooden insert).

From below, the leatherette was lined with an overlap, without a fold. The width of the overlap is equal to the width of the rail that will hold the plywood bottom. From above - it was lined with a collar for beauty. Corners have not yet figured out how to start ...

Corners started and secured. There would be skin, maybe pulled it nicely with small folds.

This is what it looks like from the outside:

Got all the corners. It turned out soft and rounded. At this stage, I glued a strip of linoleum onto a support board.

The ugly corners of the middle board were upholstered with the remnants of leatherette:

I check the tight fit of all four legs and the support board to the orthopedic base. (Note: The middle board is difficult to fit in one go. Do not rush to screw all the screws into the corners, screw 2-4 each and check the fit of the base).

The next step is the slats for the plywood bottom. Along the entire inner perimeter I screwed rails with a section of 25x40. In the rail, drill holes for self-tapping screws in a large size.

Son Andrei helps. He lubricates the self-tapping screws in soap, puts them in a rail and hits with a hammer so that the self-tapping screw enters the board. And I'm just spinning

Almost done…).

Since the roller that has turned out on top of the side slightly overlaps the orthopedic base, in the lowered state the base holds and does not fly up.

Gas shock absorbers are selected depending on the weight of the orthopedic base + mattress. My gas shocks are rated at 80kg.

We ordered a mattress and it finally arrived. Top waterproof cover:

The mattress lies high and the gap between the mattress and the base is visible.

CONCLUSION: It is necessary to move the legs and the middle support board not by 60 mm, but by 90 mm. This will make it possible for the mattress to lie more densely in the base.

All. The bed is ready. Estimated cost of materials (without mattress): 9 - 10 thousand rubles. The mattress was taken expensive because of back problems.

The bed has been tested. Very stable, nothing creaks. The tree was used dry - it should not dry out.

In small apartments, residents are faced with the issue of insufficient space for comfortable furniture for relaxation and storage. bed linen. In the limited space of the room it is difficult to place all the necessary furniture: tables, chairs, cabinets, wardrobes, beds. good decision saving usable space and forming an individual interior becomes independent production a bed with a lifting mechanism, which combines 2 pieces of furniture - a bed and a cabinet for bed linen.

A bed with a lifting mechanism is an excellent solution for a small room.

A self-made comfortable model is not inferior in quality and design to a piece of furniture made in production conditions, and sometimes even surpasses it in performance. For those who have some skills in making furniture, it will not be difficult to make a modern functional bed with your own hands. The implementation is carried out in several stages: a sketch is created, a frame is made, a box is formed, on the bottom of which the frame is placed, a lift is installed, a pre-purchased orthopedic mattress is placed.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade furniture

The advantages of the model with a lifting mechanism are:

• the use of environmentally friendly materials;
• the presence of a wide box for bed linen;
• equipped with a convenient mechanism that makes it easy to lift the unit;
• reliability;
• practicality;
• the possibility of manufacturing models of the required design, construction and dimensions, ideally corresponding to the dimensions of the allotted area for installing the bed;
• low material costs;
• exclusivity;
• simplicity of design;
• functionality: a bed with a lifting mechanism can be made built-in;
• used orthopedic mattresses allow you to comfortably support the torso during sleep;
• ergonomics;
• the ability to quickly and conveniently assemble the bed;
• the degree of wear and contamination of linen is reduced.

The disadvantages include:

• the inaccessibility of a niche under the mattress while a person is resting on the bed;
• production time;
• with insufficient experience, unforeseen costs associated with the purchase cannot be avoided additional material due to damage to the main;
• in the manufacture of a double model, spring mechanisms will not withstand heavy loads; gas must be used;
• the possibility of only vertical lifting of the double model;
• for each type and weight of an orthopedic mattress, a certain type of lifting mechanism is selected.

Necessary materials and tools, creating a sketch and wireframe

To perform a model with a lifting mechanism, tools and materials are needed:

• screwdriver;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts;
• welding machine;
• jigsaw;
• Bulgarian;
• stapler;
• roulette;
• plane;
• drill;
• board;
• beam;
• lifting mechanism;
• upholstery fabric;
• foam rubber;
• metal profile of square section 20x20 mm;
• PVA glue;
• orthopedic mattress.

First, they purchase an orthopedic mattress, taking into account the personal preferences of the owners. Then they make a sketch of the product, due to the size of the mattress. The sketch shows the composition of the bed with side and end elements. The sketch looks like a box of 4 boards and 4 transverse parts to form the bottom for the frame. When creating a sketch, the dimensions of the mattress are taken into account. The mattress for an adult has a length of 180-200 cm, a width of 80-180 cm. The fabricated steel frame will increase performance characteristics models, which is especially important in the production of a double sample with a large completeness of the owners.

The frame is made of a steel profile of a square section, additionally, several transverse racks are installed in the longitudinal and transverse frame elements in increments of 600 to 900 mm. The blanks are cut with a grinder, connected by a welding machine. Vertical posts can be located at some of the attachment points of parts of the lifting mechanism. The frame-frame is equipped with a handle-ring made of leatherette.

Formation of a wooden box, installation of a lift, upholstery

This stage of work includes the selection and purchase of a suitable finished lift for the product. It can be placed at the headboard, the function of the mechanism is to raise the mattress from the side of the foot end. For single and half-sleeping models, the lift can be placed in the side panel.

Now we create a wooden box, which is a kind of container for the frame. Work is underway to cut the side walls and bottom of the model according to the required dimensions, wood, chipboard, and a jigsaw are used. The ends are connected by corners using self-tapping screws, or a spike is made with PVA glue, while it is necessary to check the diagonals. The box is ready. A frame is placed in it. Now the lifting mechanism is mounted, its function is checked, if necessary, corrected.

Finishing the outer surface of the side walls of the model is the final in the manufacturing process. Used upholstery fabric, leather, leatherette. Upholstery is done using a furniture stapler. Laying foam rubber between wood and upholstery creates airiness, the necessary volume. Finally, an orthopedic mattress should be placed on the bed.

A unique bed, equipped with a block lifting device, contributes to a good rest, becomes a functional piece of furniture, and participates in the formation of an individual interior style.

In spite of big choice finished furniture, many people spend a lot of time and effort looking for a suitable wardrobe or bed. Through the "sieve of doubt" various models are sieved, differing from each other in design, color and size, but nothing fits. This is exactly the problem faced by the user of our site with the nickname avamonster, and a makeshift bed was for him a great way out of the "furniture impasse." In this article we are making a bed together with our user!

An overview of the models of lifting beds.
- What tools and materials are needed to make a bed.
- Operating procedure.

DIY bed

avamonster FORUMHOUSE User

I need a transforming bed in the house, which can be quickly and easily put into a closet against the wall. When folded, the front part of such a bed should be completely identical to the “facade” of a regular wardrobe. Therefore, there should not be any protruding handles, protruding legs, etc. outside. Such a bed should not take up much space. When unfolded, the “transformer” should turn into a full-functional bed designed for comfortable sleep, and not a guest “crib”.

Having shoveled the Internet, reviewed dozens of schemes and sketches of beds and traveled to several furniture stores, the forum member could not find a model that would fully satisfy his needs. Namely:

• Need a transformer standard size mattress 1600x2000x150 mm, like a normal sofa; The height of the unfolded bed should not exceed 45-55 cm;
• The width of the transforming bed is equal to: the width of the mattress (1600 mm) plus the thickness of the side walls of the cabinet, made of chipboard. That is, approximately 1632 mm. The depth of the bed is equal to the depth of the cabinet - 450 mm. When unfolded, the length of the bed should not exceed 2100-2200 mm;
• In the open position, a folding bed should fit well into the interior of the apartment, and not look like the simplest analogue of a "folding bed". Should be easy and quick to clean;
• The unfolded bed should not take up much space in the house and prevent free movement around the room, opening adjacent cabinets, lockers, drawers etc;
• Safety: the bed should not have sharp corners that you can hit with your foot, hidden cavities and crevices where pets or small children can climb. Gas lift or opening mechanism springs should not be located near the sleeper's head;
• "Human" price tag.

We present a selection of photos of those folding beds that the forum member viewed, and also give his comments on why this or that model did not suit him.

A cursory glance at this picture is enough to understand that this is not a simple closet, but a closet into which they managed to build a “clamshell”. It would be better if they didn’t build it in - slots are visible from below and from above, and the handles are located very inconveniently.

This lifting model when folded is no different from a regular wardrobe, but once it is unfolded, the bed blocks access to cabinets and drawers. This means that it must constantly be removed and lowered, which is very inconvenient.

Wardrobe bed option with sliding doors. This model does not take up much space, and when folded, it is indistinguishable from a standard cabinet. The main inconvenience is the great depth of the "transformer" - 80 cm. You will have to sleep, practically lying with your head and shoulders in the closet. Not everyone will like it. So this "guest" option also disappeared.

A typical model that can often be seen in stores. She did not suit Avamonster with the fact that, instead of springs or a gas lift, the bed is removed with a counterweight. When it leans back, you can see that the bottoms are similar to the legs from the "clamshell". And the price exceeds 40 thousand rubles.

Another common option. Avamonster's main complaints about this folding bed are: legs stick out from above, like "antennae", and when open, the mattress lies inside the bed frame. Passing next to such a bed, you can accidentally touch your foot on its sharp corner. A block with springs hangs next to the head, and by the "tram" handles you can immediately determine that this is not an ordinary cabinet, but a "transformer".

avamonster FORUMHOUSE User

All the models that I saw in the store had a construct: "a box knocked down from chipboard or plywood, in which a mattress is simply embedded." It didn't suit me. I happened to be in the USA, where I saw a different construct: the frame is “inside” the base under the mattress, and the mattress itself is slightly wider than the base. The springs or gas lift are under the mattress, and do not stick out in front of the face. It seems to me that this option is safer and more convenient to use.

There is also an option with a double caterpillar bed, but such "transformers" are expensive and do not often catch the eye.

The search for a ready-made folding bed was unsuccessful, but a negative result is also a result. As a result of his ordeals, avamonster finally decided on the list of requirements for the product and therefore decided to assemble the bed himself.

This two-in-one option is also interesting, but this do-it-yourself double bed project is much more difficult to implement at home.

Material needed to assemble a transforming bed

Looking ahead, let's say that the forum member managed to assemble a double bed, which is no different and even superior to industrial or custom-made samples. The width of the "transformer" is 1640 mm, the length in the unfolded state is 2130 mm, the height is 500 mm.

According to avamonster, sketchup helped him achieve the success of the project and do everything right the first time, without numerous reworks and changes. Having spent three months studying the program from “0”, after sitting over the drawings and dimensions, the forum member sketched out virtual models of the crib and diagrams of its nodes that can be twisted on the monitor screen (see pictures).

This approach has avoided many mistakes. After all, many novice craftsmen often forget the main building saying: "measure seven times, cut once." An attempt to turn everything into metal at once, without plans, drawings and competent calculation of several options, leads to damage to the material due to constant changes in the design of the product.

A do-it-yourself bed is made from simple materials and does not require special tools for its manufacture.

What is needed to make a product

• Chipboard sheets - 1580x995x16 mm. Sawing to size, and edging of the ends of the plates was done "on the side". It took 12 thousand rubles;

• Tailor-made springs for the lifting mechanism. Those. spring parameters: rod diameter - 4 mm, outer diameter - 36 mm, number of turns - 30. Spring length with hooks - 18 cm. Stroke - 21 cm. Force applied -55 kg. The parameters of the spring, which depend on the "shoulder" of the lever and the total weight of the bed, the forum member calculated in a special calculator. A set of 5 parts cost avamonster 3.5 thousand rubles;

• DIY bed frame profile pipe with dimensions of 4x2 cm. The wall thickness of the frame pipe is 2 mm. In total, 18 meters of such a pipe were purchased. The pipe was sawn to size into elements on the spot so that it could be brought home in an ordinary "passenger car". It took another 1.5 thousand rubles;

avamonster

Because I have no welding machine, then I had to drill holes in the pipes for the mounting bolts. This greatly complicated the task of assembling the bed-wardrobe. The best option- it's all to weld yourself or give it to a locksmith's workshop to order, otherwise I also had to clean the pipes from rust. I pasted over the surfaces of all visible metal parts of the pipes with wood-like film.

• Hardware. The do-it-yourself bed was assembled with bolts, nuts and screws. The self-made frame for strength and rigidity was twisted into corners for M6 bolts. All bolted connections were also calculated for the shear load. The forum member spent another 4 thousand rubles for all the necessary fasteners.

How to assemble a transforming bed yourself: the main steps

Mattress base ( chipboard sheets) was screwed to a homemade frame with special drill-tipped self-tapping screws. Such self-tapping screws have a “drill” at the end: chipboard should be passed large diameter, steel - smaller, and already at the finish in the tree, a recess under the head of the self-tapping screw is countersinked. Thus, in one step, the chipboard board is attracted to metal frame without prior drilling.

The design of the frame is designed so that the soft mattress is the widest part of the crib. In this case, it is impossible to hit your foot on the hard protruding edge of the frame.