Iron temperature controller. Five main reasons why a modern iron fails. Iron repair. We examine the condition of parts and contacts

Irons as household appliances appeared a long time ago. They were bulky, heavy and inconvenient to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became unusable only when hot coal burned through their metal bottom.

Today, an iron is a high-tech device consisting of several nodes that have fine tuning and coherence.

Rice. 1. Repairable iron

When all this is violated, the device junks and eventually fails. This happens due to various reasons. Incorrect operation, falling of the device, use of chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such a necessary device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.

What to do if your favorite device stops heating? The main thing is not to panic, but try to return the iron to its working capacity. Often the cause of the problem is minor and easily fixable.

Below, the article will describe the troubleshooting of an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it yourself.

Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or ohmmeter and small pliers called "ducks".

Although this iron does not have a steam generator, its electrical circuit and design are practically the same as the first ones. Therefore, the method for diagnosing and repairing the electrical part is identical for them.

In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is connected to the network and the thermostat wheel is rotated.

Rice. 2. Turn the knob, but the iron does not heat up

Mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.

Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 watts. This is not a big figure, since there are instances with a power of up to 2500 watts. The more watts the iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but the more current passes through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more likely to be subject to conditions under which they fail.

Rice. 3. Specifications

As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover of the case (Figure 4). It rests on one screw, located exactly in the middle of the cover.

Rice. 4. Remove the back cover of the case

Loosen this screw using a Phillips screwdriver.

After the screw is removed, the cover will be removed freely and you will be able to see the incoming electrical circuits of the iron.

Rice. 5. Electrical circuits of the iron

For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.

With a high power of the iron in this place, wires may burn out or the terminal block body will melt. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw loosens.

In this case, the connection heats up even more and as a result the wire burns out. And this place is often a weak link in the electrical circuit of the device.

Rice. 6. Terminal block

But everything looks great in the photo. No hints of heating, let alone a broken wire. Most likely, this is due to the low power of the heater.

But in order to make it convenient to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held on by two screws.

Rice. 7. remove the upper part of the iron body

Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.

When the cord is released, pull it out and unscrew the case screws.

Rice. 8. unscrew the case screws

Now let's move on to the front. Both screws in this location are under the water container. This is an ordinary spray bottle, for irrigating clothes before ironing.

Rice. 9. Press the release button

To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9) and remove the atomizer itself. Next, take out the water container.

Rice. 10. Take out the atomizer
Rice. 11. Water container

Under it, two screws are hidden that fasten the case to the sole of the iron. We unscrew one, and then the second screws.

Rice. 12. Unscrew 2 screws

After these manipulations, the top cover can be easily removed.

Rice. 13. Remove the top cover

Only the sole with a protective cover and electrical circuits remains.

Rice. 14. Iron sole

Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.

Rice. 15. Indicator light

It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.

In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with an oblique guide cut. This cut is necessary for docking the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor engine.

Rice. 16. Thermostat engine

We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective cover of the sole (Figure 18).

Next, you need to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.

Rice. 17. Take out the light bulb
Rice. 18. Unscrew 3 mounting screws

But before that, we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the terminals of a device capable of testing the circuit with blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase and zero of the 220 V network. We turn the thermostat slider first in one direction and then in the other direction.

The device does not show anything, which means that the break is further under the protective cover.

Rice. 19. Looking for an open circuit

Unscrew all wire clamps one by one.

Rice. 20. Unscrew the remaining wire clamps

After removing the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective cover.

Rice. 21. Remove the protective cover

We put it aside and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the conclusions of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heating element is intact, and this is good news, since it is pressed into the soleplate of the iron.

Rice. 22. Checking the heater

The only thing left is the temperature controller.

A brown wire comes to one of its outputs, which comes directly from the network. Having connected the device to this output of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as to the white wire that goes to its second contact, we turn the regulator again.

Rice. 23. Checking the thermostat

Nothing happens, so the thermostat is faulty.

What can be done in this case? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same one will most likely be problematic, especially a working one.

Some short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.

But this is not an option, because at best, when overheated, the iron can burn the delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if it is accidentally left plugged into the network. Therefore, a direct connection is not an option.

What then can be done? Just adjust the bimetal plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you can see that the thermal relay contacts are open in any position of the regulator knob.

But if you press your finger on the bimetallic plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.

We take the “ducks” and, having captured the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figures 24 and 25).

Rice. 24. Rotate the bimetal plate
Rice. 25.

This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will be heard, and the contacts will close.

We take measurements after completion (Figure 26). It can be seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor closes.

Rice. 26. Measurements after completion

Now we get the wires into the hole in the casing and stretch them with our fingers from the other side. We also carefully lay out the wires. We put on the upper part of the case and clamp the screws for its fastening.

It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel fits exactly into the cut on the thermal relay engine.

To check if these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the regulator wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and assembly can continue.

Rice. 31. We connect the body with the sole

We fix the case with screws and put the container with the spray gun.

Rice. 34. Put back the back cover

We turn on the iron in the network and rotate the wheel.

In photo 35, you can see that the iron has turned on and is heating up.

Rice. 35. Iron works

At some point, he himself turned off, gaining the desired temperature.

We spin the wheel to the maximum, and it turned on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right time. On this repair can be considered completed.

It should be remembered that all work must be carried out with the device disconnected from the mains.

One of the indispensable attributes in the house is an electric iron. Since ancient times, its design has been constantly improved. It all started with the use of improvised means - stones, dies, heated tacks. Then there were irons, working using hot coal, alcohol, gas. Since 1903, the American Earl Richardson began producing the first electrical appliances.

The design of a modern electric iron

If the iron has stopped heating and the warranty has already expired, you can try to fix it yourself. To do this, you need to know how to properly disassemble the iron. Modern devices differ from each other mainly in design, and in design they have slight differences. Let's list the components:

Possible Troubleshooting

You need to start troubleshooting by checking the power cord. It is constantly twisted during ironing. To check the integrity of the wire and plug, you must use a multimeter in continuity mode. If the chain breaks, you need to buy a new one.

Then the integrity of the heating element is checked, which is located in the so-called sole, is the heaviest part. The cord is also checked for the integrity of the circuit.

If you already have repair experience, then you can check the heater, bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse from the terminal block. To see it, you need to remove only the back cover. If the heater burns out, then you need to decide what is more profitable - order the sole of this model or buy a new device. A defective bimetal regulator and a thermal fuse can be replaced by yourself.

Phased disassembly of the device

Manufacturers, including Philips, are constantly working to complicate the design in order to make self-disassembly more difficult. But folk craftsmen find a way out in this case too. Here is an example of how to disassemble a philips azur iron:

Dismantling the philips iron begins with unscrewing the screw on the back cover. It can be covered with a cap. Next, remove the cover with the power cord hinge. Then unscrew the two screws from the end that were under the cover, one on top and two on the bottom. Another one in front under the lid where water is poured. After that, remove the upper overhead part of the handle. If the pad is with latches, carefully, using a knife or screwdriver, carefully move them aside and lift the handle pad.

Underneath is the electronic control board. If it is fixed, then unscrew the fastening screw.

In order not to get confused when assembling, it is desirable to record or film the disassembly process. Remove the wires from the terminal block. Everything removed is pushed aside. Now you need to remove the temperature control knob. Using a knife and a screwdriver, lift it up. Remove the main part of the handle. Under it is a steam generator chamber and a sole with a heating element. It is necessary to unscrew the two bolts at the back and one at the front and remove the steam chamber.

Now you have access to the temperature controller, thermal fuse and heating element. A lot of different dirt accumulates in this part, which adversely affects the operation of the iron. The entire surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Check and if necessary clean all water and steam channels of the sole.

It is more difficult to check the electronic board on which the motion sensor is located. Here you need the skill of repairing electronic equipment. If the board is not filled with epoxy, visually determine where the two ends from the sensor are and ring them.

The state of the circuit depends on the vertical or horizontal position of the board. After checking the integrity of the removed parts, you can proceed to assemble the iron in the reverse order.

It often happens that the user inserts the plug into the outlet to iron things, but after a few minutes he realizes that the iron does not heat up. This does not mean that the device should be thrown away immediately, since in many cases it is possible to repair irons and it will not be as difficult as it seems. If you are at least a little versed in technology, it is worth trying to solve the problem yourself, while best solution will apply to service center where the repair of the iron will be guaranteed to be done professionally. What can cause the iron to stop working? Let's look at five reasons that contribute to this.

1. Power cord. One of the main breakdowns of the iron can be considered precisely power cord, which, in fact, is inserted into the outlet. To repair irons, in this case it will be necessary to get to the place where the contacts are connected to the heating element. When there are no visible malfunctions, you will have to use the tester and ring the cord, this will help determine whether it is working or not. If, nevertheless, the power cord became the culprit of the malfunction, you may have to reproach it, or change it to a new one.

2. Temperature controller. This item is second in line. It also needs to be checked using a dialer, which is attached to the contact group. If the temperature regulator is turned in the direction of closing the circuit, the electrical circuit should work. Light bulb not on? You will have to clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again.

3. Thermal fuse. This element of the circuit is able to fail more often than the power cord. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit when the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value. With the help of dialing, it is necessary to determine the operability of the fuse. If it caused the failure of the iron, it will become necessary to replace it, or even exclude it from the circuit altogether. As iron repair practice shows, during normal operation of the temperature controller, there is no need for a fuse.

4. Heating element (TEN). Another reason why iron repair is required is a malfunction of the heating element. When the device is turned on, the light is on, while the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, this is the fastest reason. As before, you will need to check the performance of the equipment. The heating element is fixed to the sole, so when the attachment point is one-piece, the fastest recovery is not possible. If, however, the heating element is connected to the sole by means of tips, it is possible to repair the iron. To do this, you will have to clean the contacts. If after that the iron does not heat up further, it is better to buy a new device, since a new part will cost almost the full cost of the device.

5. Steaming system. When the breakdown is that the steamer does not function in the iron, it will be necessary to clean the internal cavities of steam generation. For these purposes, you can use water and vinegar. Another reason for the breakage of the sprinkler can be the steam button, which in most cases has to be changed.

In any case, if your iron is dear to you, you should contact the specialists who undertake the repair of all models of irons in Kyiv and perform it professionally.

So, during the ironing process, you plugged the plug into the socket, but after a few minutes you realized that the iron does not heat up. It is not necessary in this case to throw out the equipment and go to the store for a new one, because. sometimes the cause of the breakdown is quite simple and does not require professional skills in repairing electrical appliances. Next, we will look at what to do if the iron stops heating up, as well as how to repair existing breakdowns with your own hands.

Where to begin?

To begin with, you must visually inspect the case for cracks, defects and traces of melting of the case. Perhaps the appearance will immediately show what exactly is the cause of the breakdown of the iron. If the inspection did not give anything, you need to completely disassemble the case for self-diagnosis of all constituent elements.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is sometimes quite difficult to disassemble the iron. This is due to the fact that every year manufacturers devote more time to the design of electrical appliances, creating inconspicuous latches and holes for screws. Initially, prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further actions.

Video instruction for disassembling the case

Power cord

One of the main malfunctions of the iron is precisely the power cord, which you, in fact, insert into the outlet.

Get to the junction of the contacts with the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use a tester to ring the cord to determine its performance.

For dialing, you can use it, consisting of a piece of wire, a battery and a light bulb. If the light is on when you connect the contacts to both ends of the cord, go ahead.

If the power cord is the cause of the breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (perhaps the problem area will be removed). Is the iron still not working? We replace the cord with a new one!

Second in line is the thermostat. We also check it with the help of a dialer, which we attach to the contact group.

When the temperature control is turned in the direction of closing the circuit, the electrical circuit should function. Is the light bulb not on? We clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again. We immediately recommend watching the video repair instructions:

How to repair a temperature controller

Is the thermostat working but the iron is not heating up? Let's start checking the thermal fuse!

More often than a power cord, this element of the circuit fails. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value.

Using the continuity, we determine the performance of the fuse. If the reason for the breakdown of the iron is in it, we replace it with a new one, or even remove it from the circuit. During normal operation of the temperature controller, the fuse is not required.

Heating element (TEN)

Well, the last of the reasons why the iron does not work is the failure of the heating element. If the equipment turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, most likely this is the case. As in previous cases, using a home-made tester, we determine the performance of the product. The heating element is attached to the sole and if the attachment point is one-piece, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if the reason is in it).

In the event that the heating element is connected to the sole with the help of tips, you can try to repair the iron with your own hands by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. Still not heating up? We send equipment for recycling, because a new part is worth almost the full cost of the device!

We draw your attention to the fact that if you throw out the equipment in the trash, it will be more correct to disconnect the power cord and leave it to yourself. Perhaps this element will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, especially since it will not take up much space in the closet!

Steam system

If the malfunction is that the iron steamer does not work, then most likely it is necessary to clean the internal cavities of steam generation. To do this, we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in the ratio of 1 liter to 1 glass. We install the sole in a container (as shown in the picture), bring the water to a boil on the stove, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After that, we repeat the event 3 more times, which is quite enough for high-quality cleaning of the spray gun.

In stores you can see special means for cleaning scale, but we strongly do not recommend using them. This is due to the high cost of funds and at the same time low efficiency, compared with folk way! It should also be noted that on thematic forums there are many negative reviews about the fact that the iron does not work after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that salt crystals clog the steam holes, as a result of which you have to carefully clean the sole.

Another reason why the sprinkler does not work is the steam button is broken. It can also be called by a tester and, if necessary, replaced.

That's all the instructions for repairing the iron with your own hands. As you can see, the event is quite simple and even a novice electrician can do it! Finally, I would like to note that if a red indicator flashes on the case, do not panic, because. this may indicate a certain mode of operation or automatic shutdown after heating. Read the instructions that come with the kit to understand the cause of the flashing. We hope that now it has become clear to you what to do if the sole of the iron does not heat up and how to repair the breakdown at home!

Related content:

working principle and internal organization iron, at first glance, do not raise any special questions: the electric current leads to heating of the nichrome spiral, which, in turn, transfers heat to a massive metal plate - the sole. But how is the heating temperature regulated, steam supply or water spraying going on? Modern models of irons can be equipped with a variety of scale prevention systems, electronic components and regulators, the presence of which significantly complicates the design.

It’s not easy to figure out the device of a modern iron on your own, but having such information can help in troubleshooting minor problems. Given the high complexity of the design of the iron, for serious repairs (replacing the spiral or electronic components, cleaning the water supply pumps, restoring the electrical wire), it is recommended to contact specialized workshops, since the device's performance after unauthorized intervention is not guaranteed.

Such a household appliance familiar to everyone, like an iron, is a rather complicated device from a technical point of view. The iron circuit includes several dozen elements, the main ones being heating element, thermostat, overheating protection system, as well as various regulators, indicators and other electronic components, without which it is impossible to imagine the normal operation of a modern iron.

How it works modern iron, many models of which can be seen today on store shelves? First of all, the following components should be distinguished in its structure:

• electric wire;
• steam supply system;
• chamber for water and steam generators;
• sole;
• thermostat.

Considering each of the elements separately, it should be emphasized Special attention on the internal structure and the principle of operation of parts, since such information makes it possible to determine the cause of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.

electrical wire

Although at first glance, the wire for an iron is no different from a similar element in other household appliances, in its appearance and the internal structure, some features can be traced: first of all, the wire has a fabric braid, which prevents the polymer sheath from chafing during ironing.

It is difficult to imagine any other device that is subjected to the same heavy loads as an iron, because when using it, you have to twist the cable several times in different directions, stretch it, bend it at unimaginable angles, and even roll it into a knot by negligence.

An ordinary cord could not withstand such manipulations for long, while the wire from an iron does its job perfectly for several years or even decades.

The secret lies precisely in the fabric braid: it several times reduces the coefficient of friction between different sections of the cable, and also increases its rigidity. As an additional element that gives maximum reliability to the system, a plastic limiter is used, which is located near the base of the iron and is designed to prevent possible wire kinks.

The inside of the wire for the iron is represented by three cores, one of which is used as a ground. This security measure makes it possible to reduce the risk of injury. electric shock in the event of a short circuit and extend the life of the device.

Steam system

Majority modern models irons are equipped with two buttons that are located in the front of the device: one of them is responsible for supplying steam, and the other makes it possible, if necessary, to moisten the fabric by spraying water through a special hole located on the spout of the iron. The transformation of water into steam takes place in a separate chamber, which is equipped with powerful heating elements. Pressing the button pressurizes the liquid into the chamber, where it instantly heats up, and is distributed through the perforations on the soleplate.

The use of untreated tap water often leads to excessive formation of carbonate deposits on the surface of the heaters, which naturally leads to a decrease in heating efficiency and failure of heating elements. The appearance of traces of rust, dirt or scale fragments on the fabric during ironing is a wake-up call that indicates that it is time to pay extra attention to cleaning the iron.

Sole and heating system

Not only the quality of ironing, but also the overall level of comfort when using the device largely depends on the sole, as the main component of the iron. Manufacturers of modern irons equip them with Teflon, ceramic or even sapphire-coated soles - this technical solution reduces the coefficient of friction between the sole and the fabric, thereby facilitating the ironing process. Inexpensive models of irons are equipped with an aluminum sole, the main drawback of which is the excessive pliability of the metal, which often leads to noticeable scratches.

A heating element is located inside the sole - nichrome spiral, complemented by ceramic rings that evenly distribute heat and help to keep it for a long time. The heating temperature is set by a separate thermostat, the main function of which is to turn off the power supply in a timely manner in accordance with the specified mode.

Thermostat and heating cut-off system

Using the iron on various types fabrics involves careful selection of a suitable temperature regime.

In most cases, ironing requirements are indicated by clothing manufacturers on a separate label that is sewn into the folds of the product.

Adjustment of heating is carried out by setting the swivel wheel of the iron to the required position, corresponding to the permissible ironing parameters. When the temperature reaches the maximum value, the contact opens, as a result of which the voltage supply stops.

How is the controller turned off? Electrical circuits irons suggest the presence of a special element - a bimetallic plate, which consists of two parts made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion. When heated, the metal deforms, and differences in properties constituent parts plates lead to a slight deformation, as a result of which the plate is retracted upward and stops contacting the electrical circuit. A similar principle of operation is used not only in irons, but also in kettles, boiler shutdown relays and other heating elements.

How does an iron with a steam generator work?

There are two varieties of an iron with a steam generator, at least significant. The first is a device with a built-in tank and a steam generation system. The second - models with a separate tank. It contains not only a container with liquid, but also heaters and a steam flow control system. The tank is connected to the iron with steam pipes.

Steam generator design

The steam generator is a rather dangerous device. For household appliance unacceptable risk of accidents. Therefore, in the design of the generator, a whole a range of safety devices. The unit, built-in or placed in a free-standing tank, consists of the following parts:

• liquid tank;
• heater section;
• thermostat to control the heating process;
• electrical fuse;
• steam supply mode switch, working pressure setting;
• emergency valve cover;
• steam release valve.

In inexpensive models, everything works quite simply. In order to ensure a uniform supply of steam with a constant energy consumption of the heaters, the steam generator unit is equipped with a dispenser. It works in tandem with a thermostat, supplying water as its volume is depleted during evaporation and stopping this process when the temperature drops.

In expensive irons with a steam generator, an emergency stop system in the form of a safety valve supplemented with pressure gauges. In this embodiment, the unit not only delivers steam more consistently with a constant flow, but also provides greater security.

Varieties of generators according to the principle of using liquid

There are two types of steam stations. Simple option - gravity. Here, the liquid is fed directly into the heating zone. With its intensive evaporation, steam is formed, which is ejected through the holes in the sole.

Advanced Design - Generators pump type. They heat the liquid in a separate tank, where it is supplied by a dispenser. The steam formed during evaporation is ejected by the pump. This ensures not only feed stability, but also controlled high pressure jets.

Depending on the design, irons with steam generators are designed for different tasks. Gravity models are not able to provide a high, controlled quality of the final ironing result. But their price tag and General characteristics attractive to housewives dealing with a small amount of laundry. When you need a perfect, consistently good ironing result for a significant amount of things, you simply cannot do without a more expensive pump model.

Professional iron with pump-type steam generator

General procedure for getting started with the iron

The specific algorithm for handling the steam generator is always set out in the instructions for the model. It is worth remembering that there is a danger of using this device, which simultaneously works with high temperature and pressure. Therefore, the manufacturer's recommendations should not be ignored. The general algorithm of actions looks like this:

• unscrew the cover with an emergency valve built into it;
• pour water into the tank;
• plug the steam generator into a socket;
• press the start heating button.

The iron is not immediately ready for use. The time of heating the first portion of water to 160 degrees may vary. In simple models, it is 2 - 2.5 minutes. After that, the device is ready for use.

The operating pressure in the steam supply system is about 0.35 atm (value for conventional steam generators). During heating and operation of the device, a safety structure is constantly in effect. It is represented by several components. There is an integrated overheating protection in each heating element. In the event of a breakdown of the heater or a short circuit, an electric fuse is activated.

Boiler security systems

Per temperature regime meets the bimetal thermostat. Its contact plate changes configuration when heated, closing and opening the circuit. If none of the above measures worked, steam is released through the safety valve in the lid. This is a potentially dangerous phenomenon, but it helps to prevent another high risk in the form of pressure rupture of the housing and the release of a huge amount of superheated liquid over a large area.

Operation of iron functions

All irons have basic set functions. This does not mean that all devices are the same. Some models can perform more operations, others are limited to only the basic list.

Automatic shutdown

An iron with a steam generator has heaters and a water treatment zone, a pressure vessel. Therefore, in order to ensure fire safety all models have a built-in system automatic shutdown. It is built on the simplest gyroscope. Iron turns off:

• after 30 seconds of being on a horizontal surface without movement;
• after 10 minutes of inactivity in an upright position.

The iron will turn itself off when idle on a horizontal surface.

The thermostat performs two functions at once. This is one of the parts of the overall safety system of the iron, and at the same time the main function. The thermostat sets the heating level of the sole. The unit works simply: upon reaching the set temperature, it breaks the voltage supply circuit to the heating elements, and closes it again when it drops.

Liquid and steam supply

Most simple irons can only supply steam. More complex functions have two. When one button is pressed, a stream of steam is supplied. On the second - the iron starts spray hot water through the spout to work with heavily wrinkled fabric.

Do more complex models there is steam burst. This is an extremely intense jet. At this time, the device quickly consumes water from the heating zone. Depending on the capacity of the latter and the power of the heaters, the duration of operation in the steam boost mode may be longer or shorter.

Steam and water spray buttons

Anti-drip system

It should be understood that during pauses in the supply of steam, the liquid remains inside the nozzles on the sole. While the iron is being used, its quantity is small. But if you turn it off, all liquid condenses. And during the next ironing, drops of water may fly out when steam is supplied.

The anti-drip system performs two tasks:

• blocks the flow of water from the container - tank;
• ensures that the exit of the heating zone is blocked after the iron is turned off.

In models with an anti-drip system, a shortened steam path is used from the generation zone to the holes in the sole. All with one goal: to minimize the accumulation of water in the absence of heating.

Anti-drip system helps prevent water from leaking out of the holes in the sole

Vertical steam

Irons with a vertical steam function have distinctive features designs. This is the position of the heating elements, and the location of the heating zone, and the length of the steam path before being ejected from the sole. The flow is less than in shock mode. But more intense than normal work.

With vertical steam easy to iron delicate fabric. Indeed, in this mode, the iron may not touch its surface. You can also iron things that cannot be or are difficult to remove. For example, blackout curtains.

Typical iron malfunctions and how to solve them

Iron breakdowns are mainly associated with improper operation, sudden voltage drops or insufficient tightness of the water compartment, moisture from which seeps onto the electronic components of the device. Determining the cause of the malfunction, given the significant complexity of the design of modern irons, can be difficult, but there are a number of typical signs that reduce the scope of searches:

How to extend the life of the iron?

In order for the iron to serve you as long as possible and not cause problems with its work, you should follow a few simple tips:

The main principle of operation of irons is the uniform heating of the metal sole and the distribution of water vapor in the thickness of the fabric. By following simple precautions, you can not only significantly extend the life of your equipment, but also avoid most common breakdowns.