Cattleya large-flowered orchid. Proper Cattleya Orchid Care. Soil for royal orchids

botanical name: Cattleya.

Family. Orchid.

Cattleya orchid - origin. Central and South America.

Description.The genus contains about 40 species of epiphytic, evergreen, stunningly showy orchids with oblong pseudobulbs.

From the top of each pseudobulb rise 1 - 3 hard, leathery sheet up to 20 cm long and peduncle height 45 - 75 cm, bearing one or more flowers.

Each flower 8 - 10 cm in diameter, with slightly wavy petals in shades of pink, white, yellow, green, red, burgundy, lilac, blue. Many varieties have flowers with petals in two contrasting shades. Flowers can reach 13 cm in diameter and have a charming aroma.

Height. Cattleyas rarely exceed 45 cm. in height.

2. Cattleya care at home

2.1. Transplant

Cattleya transplanted after rest if the pot becomes small for the plant - about once every 3 years.

1. Orchids prefer clay pots, as their walls allow moisture and air to pass through.
2. Dry, rotten and damaged roots are cut with a sharp pruner during transplantation, and the cut points are treated with crushed charcoal.
3. Pseudobulbs are buried exactly as much as they were immersed in the ground in the previous pot.
4. After planting, the soil around the plant is lightly tamped with your fingers to remove air pockets.

Newly transplanted plants protect from sunlight and limit watering within 4 - 5 days, so that the damaged roots do not rot.

2.2. When it blooms

Cattleyas are able to bloom nearly all year round with proper care. The specific flowering time depends on the species.

The flowering period lasts up to 1.5 months.

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2.3 Cattleya soil

Based on sphagnum moss, fern roots and pine bark, loose, nourishing, with the addition of perlite to improve drainage. Add small pieces of charcoal to the finished mixture.

The soil must be air and moisture permeable.

As drainage layer it is worth using not expanded clay, but pieces of pine bark laid out on the bottom of the pot.

2.4. Watering

During the period of growth watered abundantly but allow the soil to dry out until the next watering. After opening the buds, the soil is dried strongly enough, then flowering will last longer.

After flowering, give the orchid a short rest period for 6 weeks and just keep pseudobulbs from shrinking.

The rest of the water from the pan must be drained.

For irrigation use only softened water room temperature or even a little warm.

2.5. Reproduction

division adult plants during transplantation.

2.6.How to care

Cattleya is not the easiest orchid to care for, but all the labor involved in growing it pays off with the charm of its flowers.

2.7. Diseases and pests of Cattleya

• Rot plants comes from excess water.
• Too dry air can fall off the buds.
• Flowering will not come in poor lighting.
• When exposed to direct sunlight during spring and summer daylight hours, leaves may appear brown spots- orchid receives burn.

Insects - pests: spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, scale insects.

Insects - pests

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2.8.Containment conditions - temperature

If possible, it is worth organizing a temperature swing - warm days with a temperature of about 21 - 26 ° C should change cool nights.

Welcome during the winter months cool dormant period at a temperature about 15°C. Plants should not be exposed to temperatures below 12°C.

With the onset summer heat over 30°C Cattleya should be placed in a cooler place and increase the humidity and frequency of watering.


2.9.Growing at home - lighting

Bright indirect light necessary for abundant flowering. The leaves of orchids that receive enough light will be bright green. With an excess of light - with a yellowish tint, when grown in partial shade, the leaves will be dark green.

In the autumn - winter period is possible lighting with fluorescent lamps.



2.10. Fertilizer

In the spring, when new growth begins, provide cattleya with fertilizer high in nitrogen. When the plant begins to form buds, change the fertilizer to phosphate.

feed 2 times a month diluting the fertilizer to half the recommended dose. Cattleya love organic top dressing.

2.11 Spraying

Do not water in winter time, but spray regularly. Spraying should be carried out only with water at room temperature in the morning, so that the moisture has time to evaporate before dark.

Make sure that moisture droplets did not hit the buds and flowers. Do not expose plants to the sun with water droplets - they will instantly get burned.

Instead of spraying, you can use pallet with wet pebbles or sphagnum moss - evaporating water will naturally humidify the air.

Also, to increase the humidity of the air, you can use room humidifier.

Give this plant a good air circulation.



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2.12. Purpose

valuable blooming orchid with compact dimensions.



Note.

Hydroponics.

3. Varieties:

3.1.Cattleya hybrida

The vast majority of home grown cattleyas are hybrids - such plants the best way adapted to the harsh conditions of detention and forgive many mistakes in care.



3.2. Cattleya single and double leaf

As the name implies, the main feature of the unifolia Cattleya is that each oblong pseudobulb bears only one leaf on top, while in the two-leaf Cattleya each pseudobulb bears two leaflets on the top.

3.3. Cattleya maxima - Cattleya maxima

One of the largest subspecies of Cattleya, and within this group, lowland plants and highland plants are distinguished. The bushes reach a height of 70 cm, and each leafless peduncle can carry from 12 to 25 flowers. This type can include both epiphytic and lithophytic plants. These orchids often have two periods of rest - before flowering and immediately after it. In diameter, the flowers reach 15 cm. and consist of a pair of sepals and long and narrow, often with corrugated edges, side petals. In the center of the flowers is a coiled column, at the end of which there is a corrugated, often contrastingly colored lip.



3.4. Cattleya mossiae

Small, single-leaved cattleyas with elongated, spindle-shaped pseudobulbs. The leaves are dark green, glossy, slightly bent along the central vein, belt-like. Flowers with wide corrugated sepals, narrow side petals, corrugated lip, painted in contrasting shades. There are plants with white, lilac, pink, purple petals. The lip is pink, burgundy, lilac, often with a yellow center. In diameter, the flowers reach 15 - 18 cm. The height of the plants is 40 - 60 cm.



3.5. Cattleya dowiana - Cattleya dowiana

Large-flowered Cattleya with fairly wide green leaves. They have a rare color of flowers - the side petals and sepals are cream, orange or yellow, while the lip is painted burgundy or lilac. Flowering occurs in spring, followed by a dormant period. Each peduncle can bear 5 - 6 flowers. Pseudobulbs reach a height of 8 to 20 cm, and the flowers reach a diameter of 14 cm.



3.6. Cattleya labiata - Cattleya labiata

Compact strong plants with tall, spindle-shaped, light green pseudobulbs and oblong-oval, green leaves slightly bent along the central vein. They belong to single-leaved large-flowered cattleyas. Peduncles are short, each can bear on top from two to five flowers at the same time. The petals of these cattleyas are painted in white, pink, lilac, purple shades. The lip is a contrasting purple or burgundy, often with an orange or yellow centre. In diameter, the flowers reach 17 cm. The total height of the plant often does not exceed 30 cm.



3.7. Cattleya walkeriana - Cattleya walkeriana

Compact single-leaved Cattleya with oblong pseudobulbs. Peduncles are short, thick, bearing 1-3 flowers at the top, 9 to 12 cm in diameter, with a pleasant aroma. The leaves are lanceolate, dark green, bent along the central vein. Distinctive feature This cattleya is that the lip often does not differ in color from the petals. Flowers can be painted in pink, lilac, red, white, cream shades.



3.8. Cattleya Chia Lin - Cattleya Chia Lin

Large-flowered Cattleya with dark green, oblong, often ribbed pseudobulbs. The leaves are dark green, bent along the central vein, thick, oblong - oval. The flowers are located on short powerful peduncles and are painted in red, raspberry, burgundy tones. The lip is large, with corrugated edges, often a darker shade than the petals, with thin orange stripes in the center.

3.9. Cattleya Intermedia - Cattleya intermedia

Plants, the height of which often does not exceed 30 cm. Short peduncles are on top of 2 - 3 flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm each. The leaves are green, lanceolate, thick. The flowers are painted in white, lilac, pink, yellowish shades, often with a contrasting burgundy or purple lip.



3.10. Cattleya skinneri - Cattleya skinneri

Charming large-flowered cattleyas. The leaves are green, oblong, oval. Flowers are no different. large diameter, but painted in bright lilac-pink shades. There are plants with white flowers. Pseudobulbs are light green, ribbed, reminiscent of a spindle. This variety belongs to the two-leaved Cattleya, that is, each pseudobulb carries two green leaves on top. The plant is compact - their height is from 20 to 30 cm, the leaves reach a length of 15 cm, and the diameter of the flowers is about 7.5 cm.



3.11. Cattleya trianae - Cattleya trianae

Large-flowered plants, each peduncle can bring on top from 3 to 14 flowers up to 20 cm in diameter, with a pleasant aroma. There are plants with white, pink and lilac petals. The lip is burgundy or lilac, often with a yellow or orange center.



3.12. Schroeder's Cattleya - Cattleya schroederae



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Cattleya has won the glory of the queen among orchids. However, despite all the advantages, Cattleya is rarely found in the collections of flower growers. And in vain, because for most modern hybrids care is quite simple. In addition, this orchid adapts quite well to room conditions if you give her the right care.

Origin and appearance description

The royal Cattleya, known in Europe and America as a “boutonniere orchid” or “corsage flower” (women love to decorate outfits with amazingly beautiful flowers), is not yet as common in Russia as, for example, Phalaenopsis or. However, the beauty can be increasingly found on sale and in the collections of orchid lovers.

The orchid appeared in Europe in early XIX century. The name of the flower was given by the famous naturalist John Lindley in honor of the lover of tropical exotics William Cattleya, who managed to grow and make the plant bloom in his greenhouse. The orchid was discovered by William Swenson in Brazil in 1817, it was he who delivered the royal flower to the Glasgow Botanical Garden.

The genus Cattleya belongs to the Orchid family and is found naturally in Central and South America, from Costa Rica to Argentina. it herbaceous plant, characterized by a sympodial type of growth: that is, in Cattleya, a new shoot develops from a bud located at the base of the previous one.

Botanists described 113 species of flower growing in tropical rainforests. Among the representatives of the Cattleya genus there are both epiphytes (flowers growing on trees) and lithophytes (orchids developing on stones). Cattleyas live in both foothills and lowland forests, but most of them grow on the banks of rivers.

Cattleya orchids are widely known for their large, showy flowers that range from 5 to 20 cm or more. They can be painted in any shade except blue and black. A typical flower has three rather narrow sepals and three wider petals, two of which are similar to each other, and the third is completely different (it is called a lip).

It is the lip that is hallmark Cattleya. The color of this petal contrasts with the shade of the rest. On the lip there are often all kinds of spots, stains. Often it has corrugated or wavy edges.

Each peduncle grows from a pseudobulb. The number of flowers on one peduncle varies: there may be one or two buds, or it may bloom and about ten.

Fleshy pseudobulbs have a slightly flattened shape. One leathery leaf grows from them (a group of single-leaved Cattleyas) or two or three leaf blades (a group of two-leaved Cattleyas).

Large-flowered, hybrid and others - Cattleya orchid species

• This species is native to Venezuela. The orchid is characterized by long pseudobulbs, thickened in the middle, and leathery leaf blades up to 30 cm long. The flowers are very large and incredibly attractive.
• This name has a group of hybrid forms obtained from crossing natural species and varieties of orchids. The flowering of hybrid Cattleyas is impressive, because the plant has large flowers, reaching up to 22 cm in size, while the buds are painted in the most incredible shades (from snow-white to purple).
• A species native to Ecuador, northern Peru and Colombia. Pseudobulbs are cylindrical in shape. Up to 15 flowers bloom on the inflorescence, the size of which varies from 12 to 17 cm. The petals are painted in various shades of purple, thin purple veins with a yellow stroke in the middle are visible on the lip.
• Cattleya bicolor. The size of the buds is about 10 cm. The flowers are usually painted in brownish-greenish and copper shades, the lip is in purple or crimson tones with lighter edges. Pseudobulbs are quite large, in nature they reach an average of 0.5 m.
• cattleya bowringa. This orchid is native to Guatemala and Honduras. The color of the flowers is usually pink-lilac, and the lip has a brighter shade.
• The flowers are large, reach 15–20 cm, painted in various shades - from snow-white to bright pink. The lip has a bright crimson color with a white border.
• The plant is small, its size is 10–20 cm in height. The diameter of the flowers, painted in olive or yellow-green shades, is 10 cm. The lip is snow-white and with a pinkish bloom.
• Cattleya Dawn. The height of the plant reaches 25 cm. The diameter of the flowers is 15 cm. The buds are painted pale yellow, and the lip is crimson with golden streaks.
• . The orchid belongs to the group of univalent Cattleyas. Its pseudobulbs reach a length of 15 cm. The petals are painted in pink-lilac color, and the lip has a crimson hue with orange-yellow spots and a light border around the edge.
• The plant is one of the smallest epiphytic Cattleya native to Brazil. The orchid has short two-leaved pseudobulbs, which are less than 1 cm thick. The flower has a very unusual coloration. Its petals and sepals take on an olive hue with many small dark purple specks. The lip is painted in bright pink with raspberry stains.
• Cattleya is lippy. This is the very first species of Cattleya discovered in Brazil. The plant has pseudobulbs about 20 cm long, covered with grayish scales. The flowers are very large, up to 20 cm in diameter. They are painted in different shades- from pink to lilac - and have wavy edges. The lip acquires a bright violet-purple color with a spot of a rich yellow tint in the throat.
• The species, whose homeland is Southern Brazil, is very often used in breeding. Pseudobulbs are thin, 2–3 leaf blades grow from them. The flowers are large, from 12 to 15 cm in diameter, painted in delicate shades of pink and lilac.

Photo gallery: Variety of varieties

The homeland of Cattleya grandiflora is Venezuela. Petals of Cattleya Percival are pink-lilac, and the lip has a crimson hue with orange-yellow spots. Homeland of Cattleya intermediate - Southern Brazil Cattleya hybrid - a group of hybrid forms obtained from crossing different types Cattleya lipped - the very first species found in Brazil The flowers of Cattleya Triana are large, reach 15–20 cm The birthplace of Cattleya large is Ecuador, northern Peru and Colombia The smallest species of the Cattleya genus Cattleya Forbeza is a small plant, its size is only 10– 20 cm high

Table: Temperature, lighting, humidity - necessary conditions

The nuances of planting and transplanting Cattleya

Cattleya does not tolerate transplanting and transshipment very well, so the procedure is necessary only in exceptional cases. For example, if the pot has become too small, the flower needs to be reanimated or its roots have rotted.

Soil for royal orchids

As a rule, Cattleya in nature are epiphytic plants living on trees. Therefore, the optimal composition of the substrate for them will be bark and sphagnum moss. The ingredients must be crushed, and the bark must also be soaked for 2-3 days (this is done so that it does not pass water very quickly). It is recommended to add foam balls and perlite to the mixture, which will retain moisture. You can also purchase ready-made substrate for orchids.

For the preparation of the substrate, it is preferable to choose the bark of conifers.

Choosing a pot

Flower growers recommend choosing a translucent plastic container for Cattleya that does not absorb light. Such dishes are very convenient, it allows you to monitor the condition of the roots and moisten the flower in time, preventing the substrate from drying out or excessive dampness.

Process algorithm

Cattleya in the florarium

Varieties of miniature Cattleya species, such as Golden Boy, Kewpie, Chien Ya Ocean and other mini-hybrids, the size of which does not exceed 10 cm, grow well in glass gardens or, as they are also called, florariums.

1. Prepare the florarium. It can be a special design, an aquarium, a glass vase or an ordinary jar.
2. Put a layer of stones on the bottom.
3. Then put the bark (pieces about two centimeters in size).
4. Place a thin layer of wet sphagnum moss. Put a mini Cattleya on it and secure it with improvised means (for example, thin sticks).
5. Complete the composition with other tropical plants suitable for growing in a florarium. It can be, for example, Fittonia.
6. Decorate the ground with stones or shells.

Caring for Cattleya in the florarium consists in moistening from a spray bottle and periodic foliar top dressing with fertilizers for orchids (the concentration of the solution should be half that indicated on the package).

Video: How to transplant a flower?

Secrets of care and cultivation features

How to water and feed?

It is necessary to water and fertilize regularly so that the orchid pleases with flowering. Moisten the plant from above when the bark in the container dries out. For a while, it is worth leaving the liquid in the pan so that the flower gets enough to drink.

Another way to water Cattleya is to submerge the plant pot in water. Two or three times a week, the container is lowered into a warm liquid and held until the soil is completely saturated with moisture.

Top dressing is recommended only during the development of pseudobulbs, stopping it is a signal to refuse to fertilize. Top dressing must be resumed during the growth of the peduncle. When the orchid blooms, it will not need additional nutrients, so fertilization should be stopped.

It is convenient to feed the plant with special complex fertilizers for orchids. They need to be diluted according to the instructions and added to the substrate an hour after watering. Fertilization mode - once every two weeks.

Cattleyas also respond very well to foliar feeding. For this purpose, a solution is prepared (its concentration should be half that indicated in the instructions), with which the leaf plates are wiped. This procedure can be carried out once a week during the period of active growth.

An effective remedy is an infusion of fir twigs. The orchid likes this nutrient liquid. Grind the needles and pour boiling water over it (ratio - 1: 3). Wrap the dishes in a towel or blanket and leave for 4 hours. After that, strain and spray the orchid leaves with the resulting infusion.

How to make Cattleya bloom?

One of the main conditions for flowering is the sun, without direct sunlight, the buds may not appear. Therefore, when Cattleya is about to begin to bloom, but the peduncle does not appear in any way, pay attention to the conditions of the plant. If your Cattleya blooms in the summer, take the flower out to the balcony and place it in direct sunlight. In winter, start lighting up the orchid with fluorescent lamps.

The second condition is proper watering and fertilizing. The substrate dries out very quickly, so keep an eye on its condition and moisten it in a timely manner.

The third important condition, without which flowering will not occur, is the observance of temperature differences day and night. If Cattleya is in a room or on a glazed loggia, where the temperature is approximately the same at different times of the day, just open the window or window. The difference should be about five degrees.

The flowering period varies from species to species. There are orchids that bloom in spring or summer, and there are hybrids that bloom in autumn or winter. Therefore, when buying a plant, ask the seller when your Cattleya blooms.

What to do during the dormant period of the plant?

The dormant period of the royal orchid comes after the end of flowering. At this time, the flower rests and accumulates strength. The interval of "sleep" can occur in different seasons, but most often this happens in the winter.

After flowering is over, move the Cattleya container to a cool spot with diffused light, an east-facing window is ideal. Place the pot close to the window glass and separate the plant from warm room screen.

It is impossible to feed Cattleya during the dormant period. Watering should be reduced to once every two weeks. The substrate should be slightly damp, make sure that the pseudobulbs do not wrinkle or dry out.

Table: Why do problems arise with an orchid and how to solve them?

Video: How to grow Cattleya?

Table: Mosaic virus, spider mite and so on - diseases and pests

Plant resuscitation: how to grow roots?

With root rot, from old age or due to improper care often Cattleya remains without roots, in which case urgent resuscitation of the plant is necessary. In such a difficult period for the orchid, you need to create all the conditions for it to grow a new root system.

soaking in water

by the most in a simple way Resuscitation of an orchid is soaking Cattleya in water. The procedure must be carried out daily in the morning.

1. Place the orchid in a vessel and pour water so that only the rhizome is in it.
2. Leave for 1-2 hours, and then drain the liquid. The duration of such resuscitation can vary from one month to a year.
3. After new roots grow up to 5 cm, transplant the orchid into a pot with a substrate of bark and sphagnum moss.

Room in a greenhouse

Orchid propagation

Absolutely all species and hybrids of Cattleya reproduce perfectly by division. In this way, you can not only get new specimens, but also rejuvenate the orchid. Another method of divorcing Cattleya is by children (stem offspring).

division

1. If Cattleya has six or more developed pseudobulbs, then carefully divide its rhizome with a clean knife into two approximately equal parts. The young specimen will continue to grow, and a new bud will appear on the old part, from which a pseudobulb will begin to develop upwards, and roots downwards.
2. Fix the resulting parts in the substrate by any means at hand.
3. When the roots grow back and are fixed in the soil, remove the support and take care of Cattleya as you would a healthy plant.

babes

Lateral shoots or babies are small new plants formed on the shoots of an orchid. As a rule, they appear if the room temperature and humidity are very high.

1. When shoots appear, spray Cattleya as often as possible so that the children grow up and give roots.
2. When the size of the roots reaches five centimeters, separate the children from the mother plant with a knife.
3. Treat the slices with crushed activated charcoal.
4. Plant stem offspring in separate pots.

Cattleya one of those orchids that appear among the first in the collections of orchid lovers. And it's not just the extraordinary beauty of its fragrant flowers. Cattleya is a rather unpretentious flower and caring for it may well be mastered by a novice grower.

A little about the plant

Cattleya belongs to the sympodial group of orchids. Let me remind you that these are orchids growing in a bush from one rhizome, a rhizome. According to some sources, in nature there are more than 180 species of the genus " Cattleya". Depending on the species, you can find its external resemblance to, etc. Cattleya genus from South America. It was first discovered in northern Brazil in the early 19th century by William Swanson. But he “tamed” her and made her a plant suitable for home growing, florist and gardener William Catley, on whose behalf this plant and the genus as a whole got its name. Cattleya differs in plentiful and very beautiful flowering. Each of the peduncles of this orchid is capable of producing up to five large flowers. In addition to the unusual color and size of the flowers, which is not inferior to the size of large flowers, Cattleya flowers also exude a great aroma.

Why Cattleya Doesn't Bloom

This orchid does not have a capricious disposition. But most often, novice flower growers are faced with the problem that their Cattleya does not bloom. At the same time, no visible reasons there is no such "non-blooming". The plant is healthy, growing new pseudobulbs, proper conditions and care. But what's the matter?

First of all, the age of the plant. Flowering Cattleya can only begin with the presence of four pseudobulbs. Therefore, in order to start full-fledged flowering, it must gain enough strength.

But usually, the orchid enters the house already blooming, and therefore at a sufficiently mature age for repeated flowering. And they don't come. There is nothing critical in this. It is possible that the cattleya simply needs to adapt to the conditions that you have provided her. In this case, you need to be patient and wait.

In general, in order for your Cattleya to bloom, you should strictly follow the rules for its maintenance and care. Of which the main ones are:

• Properly organized.
• During preparation for flowering, a temperature difference is required. The difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures should be about five degrees.
• Very good lighting with a significant amount of sunlight.

Now about these and other rules in more detail.

Cattleya care at home

Lighting

Ordinary diffused lighting for Cattleya is not enough. It also needs direct sunlight. But an overabundance of light is not good for her. To avoid burns from the hot midday rays, it is better to place it near the windows of the southeast or southwest orientation. But this placement of Cattleya is not a panacea. You should choose the most suitable place for her on your own. A sign of the right place will be the color of the leaves. It should be normal green. If they have acquired a dark green color, then this indicates a lack of light, and with an excess of it, the Cattleya leaves will acquire a pale green tint. When daylight hours are reduced, it is highly desirable to apply artificial lighting.

Temperature

During flowering and throughout the warm period of the year, there is no need to create special cattleyas. She will also feel good at normal home temperatures. But during the preparation of Cattleya for flowering, maintaining the correct temperature regime is essential. It is very important to create for her such conditions under which the daily temperature difference would be about five or even seven degrees.

Watering and humidity

Cattleya tolerates overdrying of the substrate well, but this should not be abused too much. Watering is especially required in the warm season. Their frequency will depend on how quickly the substrate dries. Watering is best done by immersing the pot in a container of water. Thus, its uniform wetting is ensured and the ingress of moisture on the aerial part of the orchid is excluded. With the transition of Cattleya to a state of winter dormancy, watering is gradually reduced. In winter, you can limit yourself to light wetting of the top layer of the substrate. The signal for the resumption of watering is the beginning of the growth of the peduncle.

Humidity in the life of Cattleya is not of fundamental importance. But it has been noticed that they will grow much more willingly if there is a little water in the pan during the warm season. Also, she will not refuse spraying during this period. But with a cool content, water should not be allowed to enter the ground part of the plant.

top dressing

Fertilizers must be applied in two stages. The first stage is when pseudobulbs grow. After their growth has stopped, top dressing stops. The second stage is the growth and development of the peduncle. It ends with the beginning of flowering Cattleya. For top dressing, specialized fertilizers for orchids, containing potassium and phosphorus, are quite suitable.

Cattleya transplant

Frequent highly undesirable. Cattleya roots are very tender and sensitive. They should not be disturbed unnecessarily. And the need may arise only if the substrate has become unusable (crumbled, caked, oxidized) and if the plant has grown strongly and is required, either division or transplantation into a larger pot. A transplant may also be needed for orchid disease associated with root rot. To clean the roots of old bark as gently and painlessly as possible, place the Cattleya pot in a container of water (as when watering) and let it soak well. After that, carefully remove the old substrate from the roots and rinse them under a gentle stream of warm water. The mixture for planting cattleya is quite simple and consists of medium and small pine bark with the addition of sphagnum moss. Before transplanting the plant, rinse the bark and soak in settled water for a couple of days. You can take any pot, the main thing is that it fits in size. As practice shows, a simple unglazed ceramic pot is best suited. Such pots well remove excess moisture and let air through to the roots. Before transplanting, decide on the need to divide the Cattleya bush. This is a very significant point. The plant should not be thickened. It is permissible to have no more than five pseudobulbs on one root. Before direct planting, create a good drainage layer of at least 2 centimeters at the bottom of the pot. Expanded clay, polystyrene, and large bark are suitable for drainage. Styrofoam can also be added to the bottom layer of the substrate, which will serve as additional drainage. A medium-sized bark is laid on the drainage, and after installing a cattleya on it, it is covered with small bark. Since the substrate was pre-soaked, watering after transplanting is not required.

Note! As mentioned, Cattleya transplants are very painful. It may take time for her to recover.

Cattleya breeding

There will come a time when the need to propagate cattleya by dividing the bush will be dictated not so much by your desire as by necessity. The presence of a large number of pseudobulbs negatively affects the condition of the plant. The division of the cattleya bush at home is combined with a transplant. Therefore, the technology of extracting it from the pot, cleaning the roots and planting are the same. Use only a clean knife for cutting! Pre-calcine it on fire and wipe with alcohol. Allow the orchid roots to dry out a little before dividing. After the cattleya has been divided, powder the cuts. activated carbon. After that, each delenka can be planted in its own pot.

Advice . Each division should have at least three pseudobulbs and a sufficient number of roots. Do not try to divide it into a large number of parts.

Pests and diseases

With proper conditions and proper care, your Cattleya will be free from both diseases and pests. Of the diseases, the most dangerous are gray and black rot, bacterial spot and powdery mildew. Of the pests, you can expect aphids, scale insects and spider mites.

How to achieve flowering Cattleya - video

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Exotic plants from the Orchid family are often grown in city apartments. Spectacular, delicate flowers, a sweet smell that combines notes of lily of the valley and lilies, 2-10 or more large buds on long peduncles - this is the Cattleya Orchid.

Home care is within the power of flower growers who have the skills to care for tropical epiphytic plants. If the birthday girl received an original blooming gift for the celebration, but there is no knowledge, then after studying the article it will be easier to cope with growing a rather capricious "tropical beauty". The information is useful to everyone who has a weakness for orchids.

Cattleya: types and varieties

Characteristic features of the large-flowered variety:

• perennial herbaceous plant, Orchidaceae family;
• some varieties grow at an altitude of about 400 m above sea level;
• in nature, a tropical species can be both an epiphyte and a lithophyte (growing on stones or trees). For this reason, growing an exotic flower does not require a dense substrate with a lot of humus. The basis for growing this type of orchid is a mixture of bark or foam chips with sphagnum moss and a small amount of perlite;
• the birthplace of the Cattleya orchid is South and Central America;
• long (about 30 cm), dense, wide enough, leaves with a thickening in the middle part;
• large flowers with a pleasant aroma, the number of buds on a long peduncle is from 4 to 5.

More useful information:

• in the middle part of the plant, pseudobulbs are formed, the size is from 15 to 25 cm, the shape is cylindrical;
• shades of petals: lilac, pale yellow, carmine red, lavender, white, dark purple, deep pink;
• the lip has an interesting shape and a different shade. What does a Cattleya orchid look like? The photos show the difference between the species and other groups of "tropical beauties";
• with good humidity, aerial roots actively grow, reaching the liquid in the pan with water;
• the Cattleya orchid, with proper care, actively blooms, grows in several directions;
• in some varieties on adult plants, the number of flowering pseudobulbs reaches ten, which increases the decorative effect: at the same time, about 15 large flowers with a pleasant aroma delight the eye.

Popular types:

• Bowring.
• Percival.
• Orange-brown.
• Gubastaya.
• Acland.
• Valkerian.
• Forbes.
• Dovian.
• Luddemaniana and others.

The orchid is an exotic species with an unusual flower shape, large pseudobulbs and aerial roots. The plant has a spectacular "appearance" and is not accidentally considered one of the most original gifts for women. If you want to surprise a colleague, relative or acquaintance, you can give not only Cattleya, but also other unusual plants: “living stones” Lithops, “Desert Rose”, “tree of love” Aihrizon, “stone rose” Echeveria or forest cactus Ripsalis.

Home care

Unlike other beautifully flowering species, orchids special attention requires not only the aboveground, but also the underground part. In hybrid Cattleyas, the roots provide not only the fixation of the plant in the substrate, but also the search for a source of moisture. The old roots of Cattleya die off, and the young ones (appear on new pseudobulbs) are aerial (looking for water) and go into the deep layers of the substrate to fix in the base.

The quality of care is easy to determine by the condition of the leaves (should be dense, moderately green) and roots (there should be no rotten elements and dry areas in the warm season). It is important to learn how to transplant Cattleya correctly so that the procedure does not become a stress that the plant cannot bear.

No less important is the process of reproduction with the help of pseudobulbs. It is useful to call an experienced orchid lover for help or watch a video on how to grow Cattleya from a pseudobulb.

Location and choice of flowerpot

The Cattleya orchid is a welcome gift for many ladies. Often there is a desire to quickly bring a new flower into the house, but questions immediately arise: how to care for a luxurious plant? Where to put a flowerpot with a capricious tropical beauty? For growing an exotic plant, a zone is suitable in which it is light and warm for a long time of the day, but there is no heat: the optimum temperature is no more than +20 degrees. An orchid with a long peduncle and large buds develops beautifully on a windowsill well lit by the sun, but in the heat one cannot do without tulle or blinds for shading.

Orchids do not tolerate drafts well, Cattleya is no exception. A flowerpot with a plant cannot be placed on the aisle or in an area that is difficult to reach: you need a convenient approach to a flower pot with a "tropical beauty" for regular major events.

Which flowerpot to choose for an orchid? Any container is suitable: from unbaked clay, ordinary or transparent plastic. Experienced flower growers advise natural material, although in a transparent pot it is easier to control the state of the root system and the result of washing the elements of the underground part.

On a note! The flowerpot should not be often rearranged from place to place, especially during flowering. This point must be taken into account when choosing a suitable area for growing an exotic species.

Where to place the plant

Orchid is a capricious species, the flower makes high demands on the level of illumination. Cattleya should not be placed in a room where the sun "spends" little time: the north side is not suitable. Some hybrid varieties grow and bloom even on the northern windowsill, but this is the exception rather than the rule.

An exotic plant needs a sufficient amount of diffused light. The saturation of the hue of the petals depends on the illumination indicators: in dark room it is hardly possible to achieve a spectacular, beautiful color of “lips and tongues”. The optimal location is a window sill from the southeast, south or southwest side, the window must have blinds or tulle for shading in the hottest time.

Soil and drainage

The environment for growing orchids is significantly different from the substrate for Azaleas, Geraniums, Decembrists, Ferns, Violets, Aeschinanthus and others indoor plants. In tropical forests, Cattleya grows on stones or settles on trees, aerial roots develop, which excludes the presence of the species in dense, clay soil. The substrate for an orchid with large flowers on a long peduncle is a combination of sphagnum moss with pieces of bark and a small amount of perlite. Many flower growers add foam to the mixture.

How to equip the base for planting Cattleya:

• first soak the chopped bark, after a couple of hours drain the liquid, rinse the natural material;
• grind pieces of bark (it is easier to do this before placing the base in water), add the same amount of chopped sphagnum moss, a little crushed foam;
• for good drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot (with several holes) a layer of gravel is poured, then a little substrate;
• then carefully place the roots of the plant so that the parts do not break, fill up the remaining soil. Important nuance: on top of the roots, in the depths of the flowerpot, a fairly large bark is laid out, and in the upper part and inside the elements - a small and medium fraction;
• perlite in the composition of the soil for orchids is needed at low environmental humidity.

Landing and transplant

Too often, the capricious "tropical beauty" Cattleya does not need to be transplanted: the plant is under severe stress when moving to a new flowerpot, regardless of the reason for the transplant. As the flower grows, the roots grow, the size of the flower increases, and every three to four years the plant has to be moved to a new container. It is useful to combine transplantation with dividing the bush.

Step-by-step video - instructions for transplanting Cattleya:

Content temperature and air humidity

Cattleya does not tolerate increased rates: +16..20 ° C is enough for the plant to develop well and bloom. Fluctuations between the temperature during the day and at night should not be more than five to seven degrees. Warm, wilted leaves in summer are a sign of the negative effects of heat, and you need to moisten the substrate more often, wipe dense leaves or shade the plant a little.

Unlike more capricious types of orchids: Dendrobium and Vanda, Cattleya hybrid varieties are less sensitive to fluctuations in air humidity. The dryness of the environment should not be allowed, but increased rates are not needed. It is enough if the grower regularly waters the plant, arranges a warm shower for the substrate.

If the room is very hot, the temperature exceeds the optimal limit, then you need to often wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth or turn on the humidifier. In the absence of an air conditioner in the dwelling, indicators of + 26 ° C and above, spraying is allowed warm water. The diameter of the holes in the spray gun is minimal, so that the orchid is enveloped in mist, and there are no large drops.

Advice! In summer, it is useful to keep a flowerpot with an exotic look in a pan of water. The orchid feels the proximity of moisture, releases several aerial roots, which after a while will certainly get to the container with the liquid.

Watering and spraying

Basic Rules:

• add the liquid carefully, directly to the substrate, so that water does not fall on all parts of the orchid;
• watering is carried out during the period when pseudobulbs are actively formed;
• it is important that the liquid does not get on the sprouts. In the cool season, when the room temperature drops, splashes of water often leave dark spots on the greenery. It is important to immediately wipe the drops if water accidentally gets on the leaves;
• during the maturation of covers, when the Cattleya orchid is resting, watering is gradually reduced so that with a decrease daylight hours, lowering the temperature did not develop mold;
• during the resumption of the active phase of growth, when the peduncle is ejected, the amount of liquid is again increased, but make sure that moisture does not accumulate in the flowerpot;
• water the plant only when the upper part of the base dries out;
• a warm shower for a loose substrate is a useful undertaking. The procedure is carried out every month: a container with a flower is placed under the tap, a moderate stream is opened cold water, wash the base for the growth of an exotic species.

Can Cattleya be sprayed? The question worries many beginner flower growers. The procedure is carried out only in very hot times, always with settled water or filtered liquid. For excessive dryness in the room, it is allowed to spray not only the leaves, but also the substrate. Use a spray bottle with small holes so that not drops, but mist, fall on the leaves and peduncle.

Lighting and lighting

The capricious exotic Cattleya orchid does not tolerate a lack of light: in some cases, the plant does not even bloom. It is useful to keep a flowerpot with a tropical view on a sunny windowsill, but at noon, be sure to shade the plant, especially the young one.

Determining the level of illumination is easy:

• optimal performance - standard green leaves;
• light deficiency - leaf plates darken;
• excess sun in the room - wilting, yellowing, a very light shade of green, drying out of the elements.

Top dressing and fertilizers

It is important to follow the rules:

• mineral products for orchids (liquid form) are applied during the formation of pseudobulbs;
• with the cessation of the development and growth of an exotic plant, top dressing is temporarily abandoned;
• substrate fertilizer is resumed only after opening the cover and ejecting the peduncle;
• when large buds appear, top dressing is stopped again.

Flowering and dormant period

Rest for an orchid is a must life cycle. tender plant must gain strength in order to form beautiful buds, inflorescences and pseudobulbs. The lack of a dormant period is one of the reasons why the Cattleya orchid does not bloom.

Flowering directly depends on how the plant is included in the "schedule" of the formation of new growths and maturation of covers. Sometimes the process is more active than expected, the result is negative - the absence of buds.

Large-flowered Cattleya orchids bloom at different times of the year, depending on the variety. The majority throws out buds from November to December, new growths form from June to July, covers ripen from August to the end of October. The minimum number of varieties pleases the eye with spectacular flowers in summer time, new growths are formed in February, maturation of covers lasts throughout the middle of spring.

In order for flowering to be successful, the appearance of new growths on the orchid should not be ignored while the covers are ripening. Experienced flower growers use a proven method: they break out the elements so that young growths do not take juices, with a deficiency of which it is impossible to form new buds.

Reproduction methods

Use the "dividing the bush" method. It is important that after removing part of the pseudobulb, at least five elements of a cylindrical or spherical shape remain in the flowerpot. Preparations Zircon, Epin and Fitosporin are biostimulants with an immunomodulatory effect. Means reduce the effects of stress, the plant recovers more actively after the division of elements.

In Cattleya, ready for transplantation, the roots grow strongly, braid the flower pot, the pseudobulbs actively grow in different directions, the base looks far from the ideal shape. If a larger percentage of the underground part is outside the tank, and there are more than 8 pseudobulbs, then it's time to split the exotic species into two parts. You need to wait until the growths become larger, reach 3 cm.

Experienced flower growers advise placing a part of the plant in a new container so that the growing side of the rhizome is approximately in the central part of the flowerpot.

Care errors and their elimination

Useful information for everyone who has a Cattleya orchid at home:

Diseases and pests, control methods

When a fungus is detected, fungicides are used. Antimycotic agents alone are not enough: it is necessary to eliminate the conditions against which the putrefactive flora develops.

Cattleya in the house: signs and superstitions

There are conflicting opinions among the people about the effect of Orchids on humans. Most of people think tropical view suitable flower for home. Some signs are quite strange and unfounded.

Influence of Cattleya:

• positively affects the human aura;
• normalizes the situation in the house;
• creates a pleasant mood;
• strengthens the connection with nature;
• preserves femininity, the energy of love and beauty;
• makes a man vulnerable and "soft";
• amulet for women;
• scares men away from a woman who grows a "tropical beauty" at home;
• plants with yellow buds set in a creative way;
• white and pale pink flowers create harmonious, good relations in the family;
• purple petals enhance the circulation of energy, give cheerfulness.

Believe signs or not? Everyone decides for themselves. You can not blame flowers for all the troubles or unfavorable qualities. loved one. A boy is unlikely to be weak-willed if a royal tropical flower grows at home: for sure, there are gaps in education and the plant has nothing to do with it.

Orchid Cattleya, as a true queen among exotic plants, requires heightened attention and meticulous care. Knowledge of the basic aspects of cultivation will allow the grower to achieve luxurious flowering and good condition spectacular look. Which variety to choose? There are many varieties of Cattleya orchids with a bright and more delicate color of the petals and a wonderful aroma, a lip of a contrasting color.