Surface and deep drainage of a clay site. Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils. What type of drainage is best

Clay soil on the site is not a gift, especially in spring, when it is flooded with melt water. But even this area can be brought back to normal. In this article, we'll show you how to do it.

• Features of drainage in the area for clay soil;
• How to plan a drainage system;
• How to make a recessed drainage system;
• How to make a surface drainage system.

Why drain on clay soil

Clay soil is reason enough to equip the drainage system the first thing after buying a site. Project drainage system do on the basis of geological and geodetic research. FORUMHOUSE participants often carry out such work on their own. The composition of the soil can be studied visually by digging a pit with a depth of at least one and a half meters (this is the average depth of soil freezing).

At FORUMHOUSE you can also learn how to . The closer they come to the surface, the worse it is for the site and its owner: if the groundwater level is 0.5 meters lower than the base of the foundation, water must be drained by placing drainage pipes 25-30 cm below the groundwater level. With a high GWL without drainage, the site remains wet almost all year round.

Tamara Nikolaev Architect, member of FORUMHOUSE

First you need to determine the level ground water if it is less than 2.5 m, drainage is necessary.

But in the case of clay soils, another misfortune is added to the groundwater: surface water that accumulates in the low places of the site. Such puddles are the first sign that there is a large layer of clay in the soil in your area, which does not pass water well.

Surface water is not perched. On FORUMHOUSE there is a detailed analysis of all live-owner plots.

So, a user of our portal with the nickname Brainy faced this problem: after rains and showers in the lower part of his section, puddles stand for weeks, and it seems that they do not soak into the soil, hard as cement, but evaporate.

A simple home test will help to assess the scale of the problem: they dig a hole a little more than half a meter deep in the area and pour 5-7 buckets of water into it. If the water does not go into the ground in a day, on the site, in addition to drainage, you will need a storm system that will take away the top water.

Water, which is poorly absorbed into clay soil, harms plantings, lawns, and building foundations; in addition, constant dampness attracts mosquitoes. The problem can be exacerbated by the location of the site: if it is in a lowland, all the surrounding waters will flow into your territory.

Therefore, a house on a site with clay soil is protected not only by drainage and storm water, but also by layered clay soil.

Drainage plan

When planning the drainage system, it is necessary to take into account the nearby ditches, pits, etc. - after all, we are not going to build a house in an open field, most likely, there will be a place to drain water. It is also necessary to decide whether we will drain the entire site or divert water from the basement and foundation. Drainage of the entire site, especially a large one, is always a costly and troublesome undertaking, it may make sense to divide the task into several subtasks and first ensure a dry place around the house.

Local, wall drainage for draining the foundation is mounted 1.5-2.5 m from the house, laying the pipes of the building 100 mm below the basement waterproofing level.

The drainage system plan indicates where the trenches go, what their slope is, where they connect to the main line that goes to the water intake well, where they are made.

Drainage is designed from the top down and built from the bottom up.

When drawing up a plan, it should be remembered that with deep drainage it is not allowed to lay pipes where a car and other heavy equipment can drive: the soil in this place will inevitably sink and damage the car. In such places, only drainage by storm sewers is allowed.

Storm sewer consists of shallow ditches without pipes leading to a well that collects water. Plastic trays can be inserted into these shallow trenches and covered with special gratings.

With deep drainage make a system of deep trenches 30-50 cm wide, in which drain pipes are mounted with holes of 1.5-55 mm around the entire circumference. Drains with a diameter of 10 cm are considered the most convenient. Some of them are equipped with shells made of filter materials.

An in-depth drainage system is formed from the main main pipeline and perforated pipes that are connected to it.

The main pipe is made either in the center of the site, and the drains are connected to it with a herringbone, or laid along the perimeter of the site 25-30 cm below the groundwater level.

This is an expensive scheme, which is used in the most difficult cases, when the site resembles a continuous swamp until mid-summer.

Evan

It is necessary to dig from a water intake - a storm drain, a ravine or a storage drainage chamber and up the slope. Drainage is placed in a dry trench.

How to make a deep drainage clay area

Here is one of the popular and proven drainage systems from Tamara Nikolaev.

1. We tamp the bottom of a deep (120 cm) trench.
2. We fall asleep a layer of coarse washed river sand - 10 cm. The layer is leveled in accordance with the slope angle, carefully tamping.
3. Laying drainage pipes. Between themselves, they are fastened with socket or socket connections.

By building codes minimum slope drainage pipes should be 2 cm per linear meter; in practice for good flow make 5-10 cm per linear meter.

If the site has a sufficient natural slope, the depth of the trenches to the well itself remains the same. Pipes of different diameters require different slope depths: what larger diameter, the smaller the slope. So, the minimum slope for sod with a diameter of 10 cm is 2 cm per linear meter.

Evan Member of FORUMHOUSE

Pipes in a geotextile filter are not laid in clay soil. A silted pipe can be washed out, but a layer of silt on the surface of the geotextile cannot be removed. Pipes in a geotextile filter are laid in sandy gravelly soils without the content of clay particles.

1. For good penetration moisture into the pipe in the trench, we sprinkle it with permeable materials, such as washed crushed granite or gravel of fraction 20-40.
2. Lay a geotextile sheet. GT is needed to separate the layers, and it must be polypropylene, since polyester quickly decomposes in the ground.
3. We pour a layer of coarse sand.

The thickness of the layers of gravel and sand is from 10 to 30 cm. The denser and more waterproof the clay, the thicker the backfill layer.

1. We fill this cake with fertile soil from the trenches.

Oss

I did this (soil-clay): we pour sand into the trench, then geotextiles, then 5-10 cm of crushed stone washed from sand of fraction 20-40, then a drainage pipe (we remove the GT from it, it is not needed on it), crushed stone again on top somewhere 20-30 cm, then we close the geotextile and the ground is on top. Everything, the drainage is ready.

To monitor the operation of the drainage and, if necessary, clean the pipes, manholes are made in the system.

evan

Wells at each turn (allowed through one with a high frequency of installation) - the norm of the Guidelines of the Moscow Committee for Architecture, Instruction 48 of November 20, 2000 and many earlier ones. We hide wells under lawn grates and other ways of decorating.

From the pipes, water must flow into a water intake well, which is made at the lowest point in the relief, and accumulate there to a certain level. For its device, they dig a hole 2-3 meters deep; concrete rings are installed from the bottom.

The water level in the intake well depends on the depth of the drainage pipes and on how the water will be discharged in the future: usually it is either taken for irrigation or dumped into a ditch outside the site.

How to make surface drainage of a clay area

Let's make a reservation: experts consider "surface drainage" an incorrect term, in building codes the term "storm sewer" is used.

System storm sewer cannot remove water from clay soil, but it does not allow the formation of puddles on its surface - the water will not stagnate, but will immediately cross into the well.

For such a system, ditches are made with a depth of about 80 cm, just like in a buried system - under a slope. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand (10 cm), which is well compacted, and a layer of rubble (about 30 cm). You can go further by pouring layers of concrete and placing plastic trays.

The cause of surface water is the stagnation of melt and rain water in the uneven terrain and the accumulation of this water in top layer soil. That is, an additional measure should be the pouring of soil into all local depressions, so that the most uniform slope is formed throughout the area for water flow.

Properly executed slope is the best prevention of the appearance of surface water.

Member of FORUMHOUSE da4hik I bought a plot, opened the floor to replace it and saw a small pool there: strip foundation was completely filled with water. It had rained for almost ten hours the previous day.

The first thing our user did was to dig a hole about 70 cm deep under the floor, which corresponded to the dimensions of the case found from a small refrigerator. At the bottom he poured sand and a little rubble. Additional holes were made in the body for better filling. At the bottom of the case, I fixed a siphon from the sink, on which I put a thick rubber pipe with a diameter of about 60 cm, passed it under the foundation and made a trench towards the slope, where at the end of the site from the old owner there was a brick water intake well.

Now, after the rains, all the water leaves from under the foundation. And this drainage system not only removes water from under the house, but also works to partially drain the site. True, now the summer resident has to water more often, but this is a much lesser evil.

Excess water for suburban area leads to the washing out of the soil, a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops, deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, it is important for everyone who has encountered such a problem to know how to drain the area from water with their own hands.

What influences the choice of dehumidification method

The accumulation of water on the site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:

• groundwater level rise;
• the site is located in the lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of precipitation;
• clayey and loamy soils with low moisture absorption coefficient.

The most problematic places on the site are determined in the off-season, when the maximum amount of precipitation falls, - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump water from the site in dry season- summer.

Rapid drainage of the land is carried out by several methods. When choosing an appropriate solution to the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:

• type and level of water permeability of the soil;
• size of land;
• optimal level of water drop;
• the period of soil drainage from groundwater;
• finished buildings on the site that require drainage;
• direction of underground sources;
• presence and type of vegetation.

The most popular methods of draining the land on the site are the drainage system, sewage pits and ditches, elements landscape design, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.

Closed and open drainage systems

Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and effectively get rid of excess fluid in the area. Simple drainage consists of a pipeline and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.

The drainage system is arranged from the water intake to land plot in compliance with optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high content of clay, the distance between individual drains should be 8–10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.

open drainage

The open or French drainage system is a shallow ditches, the bottom of which is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage is arranged quite simply: a ditch of small depth is dug out with the discharge of effluents into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of the sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.

A drainage well measuring 1×1 m can have a closed and open design, its bottom is filled with gravel of the middle fraction and brick breakage. Such structures do not clog, but are filled with soil, which is washed out with water. For this reason, draining this type of well is much more difficult than an open gutter.

Closed drainage

A technically sophisticated device that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from stagnation. The arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement with laying in a certain order - in a straight line or herringbone. Closed-type drainage is suitable for areas located on a slight slope, which provides a natural flow of water.

Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be carried away from the base of the house.

Sewage pits and ditches

Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of draining areas by digging drains and ditches. The arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the lowest point, you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The dehumidification system is quite efficient, since excess moisture can be discharged into sewers without the use of additional funds.

The process of arranging sewers is more laborious, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width is 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with a brick battle or gravel. The main disadvantage of ditches is their gradual shedding, so it is worthwhile to carry out timely cleaning and strengthening the walls with boards or concrete slabs.

Landscape design elements - streams and ponds

We effectively get rid of excess water on the site thanks to the arrangement of artificial ponds and streams. Similar elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.

Water sources are best arranged in dark places to avoid water blooms. The bottom of the artificial pond is laid out with stone or geotextile.

To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation can be planted next to an artificial reservoir - shrubs, plants, grass.

Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are equipped according to the same principle.

Moisture-loving plantations - shrubs, trees and grass

To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses are used, which are able to pump out excess water.

In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. Such plantations include: willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.

Shrubs are no less in demand: hawthorn, wild rose and vesicle. In moist soils, hydrangea, shadberry, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.

To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers are planted - iris, aquilegia and asters.

Too moist soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees - pears, apples, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a superficial root system. Planting trees is carried out on hills up to 55 cm high.

To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root neck remains exposed to a height of up to 8 cm above the ground.

After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly with water to get rid of air gaps between the root system and the soil.

Important! Excessively wet soil hyperacidity, therefore, when draining, it is recommended to additionally carry out its liming. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and farm work.

During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture can have a negative impact on horticultural crops, residential and outbuildings. The procedure for draining the soil is recommended to be carried out simultaneously with liming.

Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it right. This will require free time, desire and financial investments.

Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can drain the area on clay soils with your own hands.

Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.

If on peat soil or clay does not equip a drain or drainage system, then a little rain is enough to country house or cottages turned into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land for a long time, in addition to this, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.

Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.

As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:

• determine the structure of the soil;
• find out what is causing high humidity.

According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth the various elements of the drainage type system will be located. After that, construction can begin.

Types of drainage systems

For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.

Surface type drainage systems

This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. They can be laid on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of a building, near a sidewalk or around a lawn.

Gutters are laid in the channel, from above they can be covered with a protective grate.

Deep drainage systems

If it is necessary to divert a large amount of water on clay soil, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.

Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.

How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.

The figure indicates:

• A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20 cm);
• B - backfill soil (20cm);
• C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
• D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
• E - geotextile coating;
• F - "pillow" of sand;
• G - soil.

Formation drainage systems

This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the structure (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.

It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of ​​​​the building under which it is located.

List of tools and materials

To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
• level (to check the slope);
• stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
• hacksaw for cutting pipes;
• marking cord.

From materials for surface systems you will need:

• geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
• to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
• gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
• cement.

If you plan to make a deep system, you will additionally need special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for connecting them.

Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden

If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).

Self-creation of a surface system

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. In this case, a slope should be observed towards the place of disposal of drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
• at the bottom of the trenches, a “pillow” of sand is made, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.

If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the gravel is poured cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements are installed (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.). From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.

Self-creation of a deep system

The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.

The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.

It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.

On the next step stacked perforated plastic pipes. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.

Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.

On the last step the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled at the same level with the soil.

As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils can be done. This is necessary for the reason that in areas where clay soil predominates, water often lingers, not being able to go into the soil. In view of this circumstance, they begin to feel bad, this leads to the fact that they do not develop properly. In order to solve this problem, it is certainly worth equipping the drainage of the site. It is possible to carry out such work correctly if you read the recommendations below.

Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site is usually necessary for the reason that such territories are characterized by excessive stagnant water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly under the influence of moisture, and the air does not enter there in the required volume. It sooner or later becomes the cause oxygen starvation, wherein cultivated plants can no longer develop normally and eventually die. In particular, this phenomenon applies to lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also due to sufficiently dense turf, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not subjected to plowing. This leads to the fact that a dense layer located on top prevents the plants from fully saturating with air.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should be equipped before you plant a lawn or all kinds of crops. After that, it will be possible to use the site immediately after the winter season comes to an end, which is accompanied by the disappearance of the snow cover.

What parameters of the site must be taken into account when designing

Before the drainage system is equipped, as a rule, a calculation is made and a project of the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make a calculation when designing. At the same time, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for draining water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data related to drainage, namely: slope, location depth, location according to the plan, step between rows, installation of manholes, as well as the wellhead. Territory suburban area not in all cases even, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it should certainly be used.

Application of terrain features

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils must be equipped taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and a flat area, then it should be noted that it will be somewhat easier to work with the first one. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be many times reduced. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that indoor and outdoor drainage are successfully combined.

In the latter case, in the process of work, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called surface. It will be most effective for the outflow of excess water during the warm season, it is at this time that rain falls. a large number of rainfall, which causes a rise in the level. This type of drainage is indispensable in winter period. In a number of latitudes in winter, thaws are quite frequent, which are accompanied by frozen soil, which is not able to absorb water, and there is a need to remove liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, how to do this - you should certainly be interested.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to mount an open type system, then you need to use a special tile, it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through such a system, liquid from the roofs of houses and paved areas will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leader. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the surface of the soil will begin to flow through underground utilities, which have a shape and appearance they look like pipes. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has a significant weight and high density. This indicates the need for its loosening before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Closed mounting

If you decide to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do this. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine which type of water intake will be used in this system. In its role, for example, a natural reservoir can act, quite often an alternative solution is used, which involves the withdrawal of water into an artificially equipped ditch. It must be located close to the road. But it may also happen that there are none, while the task can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging the outflow of fluid. You can equip the reservoir on your own, making it in the form of a pond. At the same time, you should not be afraid that it will eventually begin to resemble a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep, and located outside the boundaries of its own site. If you decide to use the latter option, then you must first agree with your neighbors.

Alternative stock option

If you intend to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants in the territory will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be done from time to time. For units, the pumping mode can be made automatic.

earthworks

Before draining garden plot with your own hands, you will first have to dig trenches. It is necessary to arrange them along the perimeter of the suburban area. At the same time, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that they should not be more than 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, it is necessary to lay pipes in them that are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, have the name of the main ditches. Pre-laid pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm for this. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat greater. Must be carried out according to the rules of work, when the drainage of the site is arranged with your own hands, advice and guidance must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Laying pipelines

In the work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are prescribed in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It should be noted that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of ​​​​the main building, stepping back from it during installation of 1 m. The liquid will initially collect in drainage trenches, only then it will flow into the main channels. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which, respectively, must be equal to 1.2 and 0.35 m.

The drainage of the site must necessarily have a certain slope, the master can easily produce a diagram and a device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope that is 5 cm per meter. The channels should not have a large length. If you apply this rule, then the drainage system will work properly. A less impressive slope is not recommended, this is due to the fact that the fluid flow rate will not be as intense as necessary, this will eventually cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work on the territory of a clay area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for operability

On clay soil, after trenches are dug and pipes are laid in them, it does not imply instant closure of the elements. Before you have to check the drainage for performance and efficiency.

The trench network must remain open for some time. For testing, heavy rainfall is the most successful option. If such an opportunity does not appear for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation hose into the trenches. In this case, you should observe how quickly the flow of water will pass through the system. The correct operation is indicated by the absence of stagnation in all areas, this is the only way to check the drainage of the site with your own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then everything will work without stagnation. If there is a need, then even at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters that will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was found that it does not work efficiently enough, then pipes of a larger diameter can be installed, in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, masters make a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working properly, especially how to drain the soil - all this is important to know even before the start of work.

The final stage

You can close the system with geotextiles that can pass water. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters that perform well in the drainage of clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which must be corrugated. The connection of pipes must be carried out by means of tees.

The cost of arranging drainage

If you decide to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils, the price of a professional installation should certainly interest you. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the matter to professionals. So, if you decide to turn to specialists, then the cost running meter surface drainage will cost 1300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but over deep drainage, will cost 2400 rubles.

Sometimes on a piece of land where it is located a private house and a person is engaged in gardening and horticulture, flooding occurs with storm water, as well as melt water. This is a very unpleasant phenomenon for the owners, which is fraught with washing away the foundation of buildings and does not allow trees and other crops to grow. Especially problematic is the drying of clay soils, which differ in their density. Plants planted in such soil develop very poorly. This is due to lack of oxygen. From high humidity on such soils, the foundations of erected buildings are gradually destroyed.

How to solve this problem? The way out of this situation is to drain the site with your own hands. On clay soils, it will be a complex system, which includes special ditches and drains. With a large area of ​​​​the site, it will be necessary to carry out preliminary calculations in order to determine the location of the drainage trenches. To build the most efficient system, you will need to take into account natural slopes, etc. This will facilitate the transportation of the collected drainage water to a special well or to a nearby reservoir.

Features of clay soils

After buying a piece of land, it is recommended to determine the type of its soil. If there are black earth or sandy soils in this territory, then this greatly facilitates the task of avid gardeners and builders involved in the construction of a new house. Well, if the soil in the area is clayey? In this case, the owner will face a lot of problems. And they will begin with the discomfort that sticky dirt delivers, and end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn located near the house will suffer. Clay, when dried, will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if there comes a period of prolonged downpours, then the lawn will turn into a kind of swamp. This will lead to rotting of the root system of the plants on it.

This problem is further exacerbated if groundwater passes close to the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil carries a danger in the winter. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of wet foundations and the destruction of berries and orchards. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should do the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

How should I start drainage of the site with my own hands on clay soils? First of all, you need to carefully examine the area. At the same time, it is important to pay attention Special attention for some important points:

• the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
• the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
• selection of a suitable type of drainage system for the existing conditions or the adoption of comprehensive measures;
• preparation of a drainage scheme or plan, which reflects the order of the necessary trenches and wells (the scheme should indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all elements of the system, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of this structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? To do this, it is enough to use a permeability test. It is very simple, and its implementation will not cause any special difficulties. It will only be necessary to dig a hole, small in diameter, approximately 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. The result of this test can be obtained only after a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its discharge on the site. On it, you can safely engage in economic activities and build a house without arranging a drainage system. But if the water in the pit lingered at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must be built without fail.

After the stage of preliminary work is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the specific actions that are necessary in order to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before you implement your plan, you should carefully study existing species similar systems. This will allow you to complete the project with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly drain on a site with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes an integrated method is used to improve the efficiency of water drainage from clay areas. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes at once. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Surface drainage

Such a water drainage scheme involves the implementation of only small penetrations into the ground. Surface drainage site, as a rule, is used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow channels, water is removed almost by gravity.

How to make drainage on the site, if it is enough to perform a surface scheme? In such cases, trenches are laid along walking paths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, near recreational areas, and in other similar places.

The surface drainage scheme of a site on clay soils is, in some cases, an extensive network of drainage trays. At the same time, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Further, water can either be used for economic purposes, or diverted to a disposal site.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large amount of water needs to be drained? In such cases, the construction of a deep system is necessary. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which there are outlet pipes that direct moisture to sewage wells.

The deep drainage of the site consists of several main channels. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the water collector. However, this is far from Full description schemes of deep drainage of the clay area. To the main canals, a whole network of drainage trays that are auxiliary in their purpose is needed. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sludge water from the entire territory.

When arranging deep drainage, it is necessary to adhere to one important parameter. This is the allowable distance that is important to maintain between elements called drains. Under normal conditions, such a parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But the exact value of the allowable distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. Indeed, to create it, you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

This type of drainage is a kind of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used if it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of the house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to equip an extensive network of ditches located below the level of the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of rubble is laid out at the bottom of the ditches. It is through them that water is diverted into special perforated pipe channels located along the perimeter of the building. As you can see, such a scheme is quite complex. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Tools

What is needed in order to proceed with the direct implementation of the plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this, you will need the following working tools:

• shovels for digging trenches;
• building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
• a manual device (wheelbarrow) on which materials will be delivered to the place of work and the earth will be taken out;
• drilling and cutting tool required for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
• twine for marking the system.

Construction material

To equip a drainage system in a clay area, you will need:

• textile fabric, which will be used to filter the water entering the drainage system;
• a certain amount of sand and gravel intended for the pillow device;
• concrete or plastic channels that will ensure the arrangement of surface drainage;
• a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which is in the range from 100 to 110 mm, necessary for deep drainage;
• elements of finished catchment wells or their components;
• a set that includes connecting elements for pipes.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage is tray or backfill. But in both cases, such installation is carried out after marking the site for drainage and installation in its lowest part of the water intake well. Further along the perimeter of the working platform, trenches should be dug. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and be directed towards the water intake. The drainage depth on the site is 50 cm. The trenches are dug out with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the catchment area.

Backfill drainage

With this type of drainage, fine sand is used after pre-done work. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches with a layer of 10 cm and carefully rammed. After that, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled with 2/3 large gravel and 1/3 fine. From above, the system is closed with sod.

Tray drainage

When it is arranged, fine gravel is laid out at the bottom of the dug trenches with a ten-centimeter layer. Next, this material is poured with cement and pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

Such a system is closed with decorative high-strength gratings.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to drain the area with high level groundwater, then the algorithm of its organization will consist of the following actions:

1. First of all, you need to mark the site and choose the most appropriate place for the location of the water intake. And only after that, ditches are dug on the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is performed on a site with a slope of 30 degrees.
2. Fall asleep in trenches, and then compact a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
3. Lay pre-prepared geotextiles in ditches so that the material closes their walls and goes out onto the sides.
4. Pour a 15-cm layer of fine gravel on the geofabric.
5. Lay plastic pipes on top of the rubble. They should be perforated down. Further, the pipes are connected by fittings and couplings. Revision wells should be located at the turns of the received drainage mains. They are installed above the ground.
6. After that, the pipes are covered with crushed stone of a fine fraction and closed with the free edges of the geotextile.
7. Further, the trenches are closed with sand and soil.
8. Drainage pipes should be directed to the water intake. Its function can be performed by any plastic container or a well dug with your own hands, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, manholes and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

So, the drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater will greatly facilitate a pump specially installed for this purpose. After all, if the water collection point is below the place of moisture accumulation, its removal will be complicated. Forced water movement will solve the problem.

Need for manholes occurs when the drainage system is silted or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.