A simple device for sharpening a drill for metal. Devices for sharpening drills for metal. The use of grinders in the home

If you are constantly dealing with sharpening hard workpieces, then the surface of the drill will become unusable very quickly. It will become dull, get very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of the "letting go" of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices.

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for domestic needs. However, if possible, then after blunting it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but you will spend a lot on buying them, and this will not make up for the savings if you refuse to purchase new tools. That is why many masters collect machine tools for sharpening by hand.

It is worth noting that blunting applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not affected, except when used at high speeds with a resinous workpiece. Also not subject to sharpening Pobedite tips for stone or concrete.

But many drills for metal are sharpened using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

How to make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener: a tutorial video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked by a special template.

Simple drills for ferrous metal have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

You can prepare right away multiple templates depending on the listed values ​​​​and, in accordance with them, do sharpening with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types blanks, you just need to change the corners of the top of the workplace.

A simple but very convenient dragging device is bushings of various sizes that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool in the sleeve should not dangle, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the typical parameters of the drills, or you can take a bar of soft material and make many holes in it. In the grinder, it is very important to put a convenient handrest, thanks to which it will be possible to move the sharpening device at the right angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. For sharpening machine assembly with your own hands, you can take an oak bar instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply placing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device provides high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet you can find finished drawings devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you should understand the principle of working with a drill.

During work Absolutely forbidden allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind a small distance for re-processing.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down, also measure with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by such errors:

As from improvised means with your own hands assemble a grinder for twist drills for metal?

For the basis of the device, you can take any grinding machine that is able to work properly, there is no axis beating in it, and it keeps the speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the handist must strictly stand horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semiautomatically;
• the shape of the handpiece should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

Specific parts for the manufacture of this device are not required, almost everyone has everything you need home master. Workpieces are processed grinder, welding or grindstone.

For the semi-automatic mode, a rocking stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Pick the right one for lack of backlash bolt, bracket and tube holes.

The platform must move vertical axis so that you can change the angle of sharpening the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the hand rest should swing, while leaning on the horizontal axis, which provides the desired articulation when sharpening.

Base plate made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure must have a thickness of 3 mm, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The handpiece with the body of the emery is rigidly connected. It is impossible to fasten it to the protective casing, therefore, use the metal "cheek" to screw the bracket.

Then we fasten the guide plate for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the base plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, it is sawn triangular groove.

The design has an angle of rotation of 90 degrees, which allows you to provide z sharpening by different methods. Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute edge angle due to the curvature of the emery.

The drill during processing will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the base plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should press on the plate and set the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is over and you can bring the tool to the emery. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitor the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, high sharpening precision and almost no template is needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you sharpen drill bits quickly in the right amount.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide nozzle, then you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, put several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal grinding work, white circles based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal blanks.

In order to process carbide drills or high-speed metals, it is necessary to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for domestic needs, the grain size of the circle is enough for 25N.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the area from 8N ​​to 16N. Remember that silicon carbide emery gets very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such an abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 passes and chill it in soda water.

Edge quality depends on direction abrasive rotation. Its working surface must run into the cut (go from top to bottom).

Peripheral emery surface during processing must be even. It can be edited with a nozzle based on CBN. If the disc has a small diameter, it is allowed to use pliers, in which the elbor cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity in order to sharpen drills and more. You can choose the appropriate option depending on your household needs.

Work good tool it's convenient, efficient and right! Today we have a useful homemade product for home and garage - a homemade machine for sharpening drills. Correctly sharpening a drill presents some difficulties without experience. And the drill large diameters(somewhere from 6mm) are still amenable to sharpening control and, at the very least, they manage to sharpen after some time. Drills of small diameters, especially in demand by masters of radio and electronic technology, have to be sharpened literally by touch and under a magnifying glass and without the use of mechanization using corundum blocks. By the way, just recently we published an article "" who has not read it, be sure to read it!

Using my deposits of illiquid assets and conducting a survey of the Internet, I collected on hastily a simple fixture that made it possible to sharpen drills from 2.0 to 6.0 mm without much difficulty. Further improvement of the device is possible and is a task for the near future. General form in photos 1 and 2.

As, of course, metal drills are known to have a sharpening angle at the top of 120 degrees. (Less for wood and soft metal). The photo shows a yellow square lying between the sharpener and the fixture, providing this angle, i.e. the drill is located at an angle of 60 gr. to the working end of the abrasive disc. The desired angle of the nape of the drill is provided by the initial inclination of the drill relative to the disk.

The principle of operation of the device is not new and has been repeatedly repeated and published on the net. The difference of this device is the use of the so-called jewelry vices, which are commercially available and inexpensive, to secure the drill. I had these very old ones, remade and mutilated over 30 years of use. Photo taken from the web.

The principle of operation is simple - by turning the handle we push the jaws apart and by reverse rotation we clamp something, for example a drill.

These grips have been revised. The rivets were drilled out and plates were placed on these seats and riveted again with longer rivets. Further it will be clear why this was done.

The drill is clamped in vise so that the cutting edges lie parallel to the jaws.

Along the edges of the riveted plates, coaxial holes are drilled at the same distance from the center and lying on a straight line perpendicular to the axis of the vise (that is, the drill). Through these holes, an axis will pass on which this “rocking chair” will swing alternately when sharpening one and the other edge. With an ideal marking of the rocking chair, equality of the cutting edges will be achieved during sharpening.

The rocking chair is fixed on racks (cases of mortise door latches without insides came up. In turn, the racks are screwed to an oak plate. There are also four support legs in it to adjust the desired height.

Rocking chair with a drill is placed between the racks on the axis, the axis is removable.

Sharpening the first edge (sponges are painted over with a blue marker).

The sharpening of the second rocking face is turned 180 gr. (the shaded side is not visible). Top view of this node.

The finished drill is pictured below. The errors that arose when working “on the knee” and the old worn-out vices did not allow sharpening drills from 1 mm. Shown here is a sharpened 1.5 mm drill bit. At high magnification, the difference in the lengths of the cutting edges is visible (small, but there is)

Or a workshop greatly facilitates work and allows you to enjoy working with it. The same applies to drills. But even the most expensive of them become dull or break over time. But not everyone, especially beginners, have the skill to properly sharpen drills, and constantly buying new ones is quite expensive. For such cases, you can assemble a special device for sharpening them. This machine is quite simple, but still can greatly facilitate this process.

It is especially convenient for working with small diameters, since they are the most difficult to sharpen.

The machine consists of a grinding machine and a device for attaching a drill.

The principle of its operation is as follows: The drill is rigidly fixed to the coiled part in special vices. Their angle with respect to the grindstone is set using a square, for metal drills it is 60 degrees. Thus, one of the edges is sharpened, then the fixture is turned over and the other edge is sharpened.

The difference between this project and many of those posted on the net, according to the author, is the use of these same jewelry vise as a retainer. They are commercially available and cost a little.

Here's what they look like:

The principle of their operation, as with conventional yews: the handle rotates in one direction - the jaws open, rotates in the opposite direction - the jaws are clamped, you can fix the workpiece or part.

For use in the machine, you need to redo them a little. The native rivets are removed, such self-made plates are installed and riveted again.

When clamping the drill, the cutting edges must be parallel to the jaws.

Further, in the newly attached plates, four holes are drilled equidistant from their center. They should be located at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the drill clamped in vise.

Later, alternately (for each face), an axis will pass through these two holes, which will fix the entire system. Get the effect of "swing". Much attention should be paid to the marking of the holes, since the quality of sharpening drills depends on their location.

In this case, the supports of this "swing" are two cases from under gutted door locks, but they can be made from scratch by cutting metal or wood racks.

They are firmly attached to wooden playground.
On its four edges, four screws are screwed in to adjust the desired height.

It would be best to place the grinder and rocker on the same panel.

Vices are installed between the racks and hung on the axis.

The fixture is set at the desired angle (60 degrees) to the surface of the circle and one of the edges is sharpened.

We turn the vise 180 degrees, the axis is threaded through the opposite holes, the other edge is sharpened.

The finished result turned out pretty good, considering (according to the author) a lot of wear on the old vices. In the photo, a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm.

The device for sharpening drills is useful in any household. After all, working with a blunt drill is a torment. The mechanism can be made by hand using unnecessary and obsolete parts.

Drill sharpening rules

Drills can be sharpened on special grinding discs, manually or on machines. Before starting work, carefully examine the drills: if there are serious defects on the surface, you need to start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. If the tool is a little dull, use a finishing disk.

When sharpening manually with your own hands, you need to follow the rules:

• hold the shank with one hand, touch up the working end with the other;
• handle the cutting edge with the side of the grinding disc;
• first, one side is sharpened, after which the drill is carefully turned over and the second is processed.

During processing, it is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting edges. It is necessary to ensure that the tip of the tip does not move from the center, otherwise the tool will deviate to the side during operation. If after sharpening the angle of the cutting edges is not the same, the work of the drill will be of poor quality. This is determined using a do-it-yourself template, or by eye: the shape of the tip should be a cone. To avoid mistakes, it is better to edit on specialized devices.

Types of grinding equipment

A home-made apparatus is provided for sharpening drills from various metals, cutters, taps, milling cutters, countersinks, cutters.

Equipment can be:

• specialized - processes a single type of tool;
• universal - used for all types of cutters and drills.

Homemade mechanisms are more often referred to as universal household type. Industrial machines are powerful, work with large tools. There is no need for such houses, they are noisy, take up a lot of space and are energy-intensive.

Household homemade machines are suitable for sharpening small and medium diameter drills, they are compact and economical.

Making a sharpening machine

To assemble the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• electric motor;
• grinding disc;
• toggle switch;
• stand;
• electric cable;
• plug.

All components of the machine do-it-yourself are placed inside the case. This will make your work safe and convenient. Only the pulley of the electric motor, on which the grinding wheel is put on, should be accessible. The machine is permanently attached to the workbench, so the place must be selected in advance.

• place the electric motor in the right place, mark the attachment points on the table;
• drill holes for mounting bolts;
• return the electric motor to its place and screw it to the workbench; clamps made of thin metal strips are suitable for fastening;
• install the protective case;
• put a grinding wheel on the engine pulley.

It is advisable to choose an engine with an extended pulley, otherwise it will have to be delivered. First, the puck is put on, then the circle. If the diameters of the pulley and the disk do not match, an adapter sleeve is used. A threaded hole is made on the side of the bushing, an additional mounting bolt is screwed into it.

By power for homemade machine suitable engine from washing machine. Do not select a high-speed engine, as the drills are sharpened at low speed.

Now you can connect the electrical component: toggle switch, motor and connect them to the outlet.

Additional devices

Do-it-yourself accessories will make the work of sharpening drills more convenient and accurate.

Template for verification. The template is cut out of a sheet of thin (1 mm) soft metal (aluminum, copper). The template reveals the angles at the point, the duration of the working edges, the angle between the working edge and the bridge. Since it is almost impossible to check the rear angle of sharpening the drill with a template, the sharpening angle is verified. The template is cut before the first use of the drill.

Guide. This is a small prefix, which is made of a metal strip and is fixed to the body with a bolt. During operation, the drill is placed on the guide and brought to the grindstone.

Goniometer. On the stand, which is described above, divisions of the sharpening angles are applied. You can cut off part of the metal protractor with the marks of the corners and attach it to the stand. You need to cut off a part with angles of more than 30 degrees, since smaller ones are not used when sharpening.

A device that facilitates sharpening drills. It consists of a fixed bed and holder, which has holes for inserting cutters of different sizes. The holder can be removed. The bed is made of a 50 mm board, a rail is attached to it at an angle of 32 degrees. The rail exposes the holder with the tool at the required angle. The do-it-yourself holder is sawn out of a bar, the surface of which is removed at an angle of 65 degrees. The beveled part fits to the rail. The bevel angles of the holder and rail depend on the type of sharpening.

Multifunctional mechanism

Sharpening drills will become easier when using this mechanism. The device consists of:

• roller sled;
• guide;
• shaft;
• protractor;
• drill chuck.

The guide should be made wide enough, a protractor is attached to it. A bolt inserted into the provided hole serves as the axis of rotation. Guides and a movable plate are placed on the rotary part. An axis, a tube, is fixed on its surface, on the one hand the axis ends with a drill chuck, on the other - with a handle. The movement of the stop plate is provided by a threaded axle.

At the bottom of the thrust plate there is a limiter (aka a pointer), which simultaneously indicates the required offset angle and fixes it in the desired position.

The mechanism works as follows:

• the drill is fixed in the cartridge;
• the thrust plate is locked at the required angle;
• the tool is rotated longitudinal axis with a handle;
• mark the corner;
• turn the cutter 90 degrees and process the second half, reaching the marked angle.

Sharpening rules on a homemade machine

• When processing drills, both shoulders must be identical. This means that the drill will go straight into the hole and drill well.
• Before starting the machine with your own hands, securely fasten the grinding wheel to the pulley.
• Primary processing is carried out with a disk with a large abrasive. When you notice a burr on the drill, the disc should be changed to a thinner one.
• Maintain the required angle while sharpening.
• The circle should rotate in only one direction, along the blade.
• Do not allow the torch to overheat; during processing, it should be cooled periodically. Do not dip an overheated tool in cold water, this contributes to the cracking of the metal.

Several options for sharpening drills in videos.

Accurate and centered drills are required for well-functioning work. We suggest considering where you can buy a machine for sharpening drills, how a home-made unit is made, and also how household models differ from industrial ones and what is their price.

Types of drills and basic concepts

There are several types of drills, because. they are divided according to the principle of operation and the ratio of working surfaces, they also need to be sharpened in different ways, let's get acquainted with the main ones:

• spiral. They are used in almost all types of industry, domestic work, repairs, etc.;
• flat - these are more narrow-profile tools, they are mainly used when drilling holes of large diameters, they got their name due to the flat working edge, which is very similar in shape to a reamer.

Consider the fundamental provisions for sharpening twist drills and countersinks:

During the movement of the cutting surface in the material, chips are formed inside the processed raw material, in particular this process manifests itself in the front surface. It is a large accumulation of chips that plays a major role in the deformation of the plastic parts of the drill: during operation, it heats up, and under the influence of sharp ends of the chips, its working edge changes. Of course, there is a huge difference in the speed of this process, the most dangerous and tough - copper and steel.

Photo - Cleaning the drill from chips

Drilling is carried out according to the following scheme: during operation, a conical surface is described, this shape is also acquired by the working surface of the drill, respectively, the cutting edge becomes somewhat dull and changes its center. All corners of the work surface must be above the end face, this is the only way to ensure a normal and standard relief angle.

The simplest and effective way how to sharpen a drill at home is to use an electric sharpener. You can work with a conventional whetstone made from a mixture of abrasive materials, but such a process will take a lot of time and effort, unlike operating a device with an electric motor. The universal manual grinder has a motor, the speed of which is 1500-2000 min -1 . Optimum power: up to 300 watts. Such models are available from Doctor (Doctor), Vollmer, Sturm, Proxxon, Drill and Weinig.

Photo - Sharpened drills

Orientation is carried out along the cutting edges, it is necessary to act strictly in the direction of the spiral grooves, because they do not change their shape even under impact a large number shavings. We fix the drill so that the edge to be sharpened is strictly parallel to the axis of the grinding tool. The most important question: when is the working part sharpened? As soon as you see a reflection of light from the work surface, this means that the edge has been sharpened. Using the same system, we sharpen the second side.

Photo - Sharpening drills

At the same time, it is very important not to align the drill earlier, in which case you will lose its balance, and during operation the tool will deviate by several degrees from the standard-specified parameters. The angle between the lumps is the most important sharpening parameter.

Photo - Cutting angle

Standard sizes have the following form:

Steel alloyed, structural, tool - 90 more degrees;

Soft metals (copper, aluminum, aluminum alloys) - 90-100 degrees;

Wood, plastic, rubber - 90-100;

Bronze, brass - 110-120.

In order to achieve high precision processing with your own hands, you need Special attention give the parameters standard and deformed. To control the sharpening process, you can order a special drill template with desired diameter and angle. The photo shows a drill processing scheme with such a device.

Photo - Sharpening template

If there is no money or time to purchase a template, use the "old-fashioned" method: we act according to the rule of left-hand mechanics. We bend the arm, and replace it in this way over the drill so that the cutting surface is closed from several sides, a kind of corridor should be obtained. We place a lamp opposite the end surface, and check the evenness and accuracy of sharpening (this will be clearly visible from a distance of 20 cm from the drill, if viewed with one eye).

Photo - Left hand rule
Photo - Glare check

Using a homemade electric machine, it is very important to control the process of sharpening drills. For a complete violation of accuracy, it is enough to make a mistake of 1 mm. Small diameter core drill auto sharpener can also be used for discs, knives, scissors, chains, etc.

Video: sharpening machine Energomash TS 6010C

professional ways

The methods listed above are suitable for narrow-profile home use, but if you need to grind drills in series, then you will not have enough time or energy for manual centering, checking or sharpening. Consider how a professional drill machine is used.

The grinding wheel must be made of fine abrasive material. The place of sharpening should be illuminated under right angle in relation to the drill. The employee must wear safety goggles and gloves.

Step-by-step instruction:

Before choosing a machine for sharpening drills, you need to read reviews about it, carefully study the passport and the possibilities. One mechanics forum even advised to always carry a drill with you so that you can check the effectiveness on the spot.

Price overview

Buying an inexpensive machine for sharpening drills in Ukraine, Russia or Belarus is real, the main thing is to choose the right model (for metal, wood or plastic), caliber (dd750хibm, drillgrind, edbs2001 - universal), and power. We offer to consider the average prices for such devices:

Now desktop and universal machines brands such as DrillGrind, Shturm (manufactured by Energomash), BSG, BSM, ESM, MICRA, V391, Diold, EZS, NKCh. They can be found in a professional store, on the Internet, on the forums under the heading “Sell electrical appliances”. The main thing is to make sure that the documentation corresponds to the data declared by the seller.