Do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpener. Sharpening machine for planing knives. Homemade ice drill machine: what you need to make it

To sharpen these knives, Tormek has the SVH-320 tool. It consists of an independent caliper and mandrel.

The caliper is mounted on the machine on two screw posts, each of which has an adjusting nut. Nuts are marked with digital scales for fine adjustment of the vertical position of the caliper. An aluminum guide is installed on screw racks on two axes. Its design is such that the mandrel with the knife clamped in it makes strictly horizontal working movements. The angle of inclination of the guide, respectively, and the angle of sharpening knives, is adjusted using a spring-loaded adjusting screw.

On the guide there is a steel rod, on which there are two bushings-limiters. They serve to limit the movement of the mandrel along the guide. The bushings are set in the required position on the rod and are fixed on it with the help of screws in the body of the bushings. Loosen and tighten these screws with the small hex wrench included with the SVH-320.

The knife to be sharpened is clamped into the mandrel with a U-shaped profile and five screws. It is possible to clamp knives up to 300 mm in length and at least 13 mm in width. I saw somewhere in a Tormek advertisement how knives with a length of 450-500 millimeters are sharpened using the SVH-320. But it seems to me that this is more a way out than the norm. In the upper part of the mandrel, in the center, there is a pin, which, during sharpening, abuts against the bushings-limiters.

Well, it's time to get down to business. I fill the machine with water to the norm.

Sharpening this type of knife is a rather responsible undertaking. It is worth using the TT-50 fixture. The working surface of the abrasive wheel will become smooth and clean. The rotation of the circle will be smooth, without beating.

The grooves that result from the application of TT-50 can be put to good use. In this state, the abrasive wheel quickly removes metal. And this is true when you sharpen knives with small potholes from knots, and even worse, nails.

But in addition to the speed of sharpening, it is necessary to achieve the cleanliness of sharpening the RK.

To do this, you still have to use the double-sided stone SP-650. With it, I only slightly smooth the working surface of the circle. In the process of sharpening, the grooves will smooth out fairly quickly, but I will sharpen the first knife much faster than the rest.

Here are our experimental knives. Two knives from a Makita planer, two knives from an electric planer. Makita knives are sharpened on one side only, electric planer knives are sharpened on both sides.

I put a long knife from a thicknessing machine into the SVH-320 mandrel without gaps and distortions. I tighten the central screw, then the adjacent, and then the extreme screws.

I install the SVH-320 caliper on the machine, as shown in the photo.

I put the mandrel on the caliper guide. To do this, you may have to raise the caliper using the adjusting nuts.

Adjusting the sharpening angle with the SVH-320 can be done using a permanent black marker. The Tormek user manual only lists this method, and I have already described it in the topic about sharpening axes.

I sometimes set the sharpening angle using the WM-200 goniometer, as shown in the photo. This method is good when the knives are constantly in my service, and I know exactly at what angle they were sharpened by me last time. With the help of nuts on the screw posts of the caliper and a spring-loaded screw, we set the required sharpening angle.

There are only two settings here, but they affect each other. At first, people have difficulty with fine tuning, but with the advent of skill and experience, the difficulties disappear.

After the sharpening angle is set, fix the SVH-320 caliper by tightening the locking screws on the Tormek vertical guides. Then you need to make sure that the RC of the knife and the working surface of the circle adjoin each other tightly and without distortions. The Swedes suggest doing this with two strips of tissue paper. I do it “in the light”, i.e. install on the opposite side of the machine table lamp and I look at the light gap between the stone and the RC of the knife.

If everything is in order, proceed to the “rough” sharpening of the knife. The longitudinal movement of the mandrel with the knife must be uniform. I do a small but uniform pressure on the stone. Otherwise, the RK of the knife will turn out to be wavy.

Having achieved a distinct burr along the entire length of the RK, I proceed to fine sharpening. I take a double-sided bar SP-650, smooth the working surface of the abrasive stone.

I do a clean cut. Several working passes are sufficient.

I get something like this RK:

Electric plane knives are sharpened in the same way. To fix them in the mandrel, three screws are enough.

Both sides of the planer knife are sharpened. Therefore, it will take 4 cycles of “rough-finish” sharpening to sharpen two knives.

The photo shows that I do not use limiter bushings. I think they will be really useful when you have to sharpen a batch of knives of the same type. If you need to sharpen 2-6 knives, then visual control is enough, in my opinion.

I get this RK:

I start finishing the RK knives on the “leather” circle. I pre-coat the circle with Tormek PA-70 finishing paste.

I do fine-tuning of the RK from the opposite side of the knife.

Similarly, I bring the RK of knives from a thicknessing machine.

Finishing from the reverse side. It is important to achieve deburring along the entire length of the RC.

I get this result. Well-sharpened knives confidently cut a newspaper sheet. I am sure that the quality of the surface of wood planed with such knives will please the carpenter or cabinetmaker.

One of the drawbacks of the SVH-320 is the water flowing down on both sides of the sharpening. The fact is that when you sharpen long knives, water flows down the knife being sharpened either to the left or to the right. Water falls on the leather circle, and then on the drive wheel. The rubber surface of the drive wheel gets wet and the machine begins to slip.

I have learned to work around these problems. To keep water out of my workbench, I first place a ribbed car rubber mat on it. All spilled water will be collected in it. And so that water does not get on the drive wheel, I put a substrate about 1 cm thick under the legs of the machine from the side of the leather circle. In this case, the water no longer drips onto the leather circle, but flows down the knife being sharpened back to the abrasive wheel.

I am generally satisfied with this development by Tormek. So far I have not seen anything on which it would be possible to sharpen such knives with better quality. Maybe in time someone will change my mind.

Owners of planers and electric planers periodically face the problem of sharpening cutting edges. A well-sharpened tool will ensure clean woodworking even at non-ideal angles and speeds. The easiest way to sharpen knives and knife heads with your own hands using specialized equipment.

Sharpening of knives is necessary

Planer knives require timely maintenance because:

• dull surfaces do not process wood well;
• when processing soft rocks with blunt knives, the surface is covered with pile and irregularities;
• worn edges crumble;
• during planing with blunt edges, the engine and power units are overloaded.

Attempts to sharpen blades with your own hands using diamond stones, as a rule, give a short-term result. Due to poor-quality editing, the blades have to be sharpened soon. Therefore, professional carpenters use only mechanical sharpening.

Types and designs of machines

The machines on the market are distinguished by the knife feed mechanism:

• manually;
• automatically.

The machine for sharpening planer knives with manual feed consists of:

• grounds;
• abrasive stone;
• carriages for fixing the knife.

During processing, the cutter moves progressively with the help of a handle. The lateral movement of the cutter is provided by a flywheel.

Automatic machines differ in size and set of options. Mechanisms for industrial use are installed on a powerful cast-iron frame. The carriage is equipped with a support. You can set the speed of movement of the blade and the thickness of the removed metal layer. Industrial machines allow you to sharpen several planer blades at the same time without changing the settings.

	Corvette K-470	WTG-163	GA-630	GA-850	ZX-1000
Maximum length of knives, mm	630	630	640	850	1000
Abrasive disc diameter, mm	100	150	125	125
Sharpening angle, hail	35…55	up to 30	35…45	35…45	up to 30
Engine power, W	550	550	850	850	1500
Dimensions, cm	90 x 48 x 42	100 x 60 x 65	100 x 54 x 120	120 x 54 x 120	190 x 56 x 150
Weight, kg	75	60	112	125	250
Add. intelligence	Equipped with asynchronous motor sharpening possible wet way	Processes cutters, circular saws	Wet sharpening possible	Can sharpen up to 4 blades, wet	Wet method available, cup type sanding disc, controlled via remote control

Table 1. Characteristics of some models of machines for sharpening planer knives

Compact automatic machines for home and small workshops are designed to process one torch at a time. They also provide speed control and automatic tool feed.

Before starting work on any sharpening equipment, you should make sure that the bed is firmly attached. The vibration of the machine worsens the quality of sharpening and can lead to injury to the master.

Basic rules for using manual feed equipment

Such machines are used for one-time work and do-it-yourself sharpening of small batches of blades, since the processing process is quite long.

• Before starting work, make sure that the grinding surface is clean, free of stains and streaks.
• The movement of the carriage should be smooth, without jerks and jerks. It is forbidden to stop it at the moment the cutter approaches the grindstone.
• The faster the carriage moves, the lower the quality of sharpening. The optimal speed of movement is 5 - 6 m / minute.
• For proper sharpening, the amplitude of the movement of the carriage is important. For the passage in each direction, it should move 10 - 13 cm beyond the end of the knife. This ensures optimum contact between cutter and sharpener, which must be interrupted before moving in the opposite direction.

Basic rules for working on automatic machines

• Planer knives can be sharpened dry or wet. In the second case, the blade is constantly washed by a jet of water. The wet method is more gentle on the blade and more efficient;
• Before starting processing, it is necessary to set the parameters: sharpening angle, carriage movement amplitude. The amplitude should be 15 cm more than the length of the knife;
• Do-it-yourself blades are carefully fixed in a mobile carriage.

Homemade machine for sharpening planer knives

The design, made at home with your own hands, allows you to quickly and accurately sharpen knives at one set angle. The factory angle will change, so all blades will need to be resharpened. The quality of planing will not deteriorate, but may improve.

To make a device for sharpening straight blades of planers, planers and thicknessers with your own hands, you need:

• metal corner No. 50;
• round pipe with a diameter of not more than 50 mm;
• an electric motor from a washing machine;
• powerful spring;
• bolt with nut;
• plastic handle (knob);
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine.

Making a machine with your own hands.

1. Cut off a corner about 50 cm long.
2. We bend two pieces of the pipe in such a way that we get a stable stand for the corner, weld the legs. The corner should be located vertically to the master.
3. At the left end, around the corner, we attach the electric motor. It is placed on two points: a rigid axis and a powerful spring; The spring is tightened and released with the adjusting screw, moving the motor closer or further away from the guide-corner.
4. We put an abrasive wheel on the motor shaft.
5. The engine is started by a switch placed on the frame in a convenient place.
6. We feed the tool with the help of home-made vices from a piece of pipe 25 cm long, a pressure plate, a bolt with a nut and a knob. We clamp the knife in a vice and move it along the guide, holding the knob.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening is a painstaking procedure due to the hardness of the products being cut, the frequency of use of the tool, and the thickness of the cutting edge.

The need for surgery arises regardless of the quality of the blade. How to do it at home? Let's try to figure it out.

In contact with

Why do you need to sharpen knives, can you do it yourself

Any hostess knows that knife sharpening is very important: working with a blunt tool is not only difficult, but also dangerous. The process slows down significantly and requires serious effort, as a result of which the muscles of the hand get tired quickly. In addition, the blade is capable of jumping off and causing injury at the most crucial moment.

You can carry the product to the workshop, where you will quickly sharpen it. But where is the guarantee that the work will be done correctly and the blade will not be spoiled? In addition, this service is far from free and requires a significant amount of time. And, sometimes, it is very lacking in preparation for the celebration, for example, in order to cook dinner on time. If the knife sharpening machine is at home, you don’t have to go anywhere. The quality will depend only on your skill, the tools and devices used.

Why knives lose their sharpness

No matter how high-quality the steel of the blade is, sooner or later any knife becomes dull. Why is this happening?

In the process of interaction with the material being cut, the cutting edge loses microscopic fragments of steel. At the same time, its shape changes, and the blade loses its sharpness.

In addition, this process causes deformation of the blade. When cutting products, we apply a force that almost always deviates in one direction or another. Of course, if this were the only reason, then it would not be necessary to sharpen knives so often. Another detail is important, the influence of which on sharpness is much more significant.

Maintaining the direction in accordance with the plane of the blade is almost impossible. As a result, the thin edge is slightly bent, and it becomes much more difficult for the knife to overcome the resistance of the material being cut. This process occurs especially quickly if the blade is made of low-quality steel.

There is a point of view that hot water can dull the blade. To some extent, this is true. In the process of contact with steel, salts dissolved in water react with the metal, causing a change in its properties that is far from for the better. But such an impact is not decisive and has no serious significance.

Prices for knives

Basic principles of knife sharpening

There are several ways to sharpen. The choice depends on the time you have, the purpose of the knife, the tools and fixtures available.

The general principles are:

• initial processing is carried out with a coarse-grained abrasive;
• subsequent grinding is performed with fine-grained material;
• leather or various pastes of varying degrees of abrasiveness are used for final finishing.

To facilitate the work can be used purchased or homemade device for sharpening knives.

At what angle should knives be sharpened?

The sharpening angle mainly depends on their purpose and, accordingly, the quality of the material from which they are made. What value of the sharpening angle should be for knives designed for various needs is indicated in the table:

In some cases, the angle can be reduced to 15º if the tool is used for a special purpose, such as slicing fresh baked goods.

Applicable materials

Do-it-yourself manual knife sharpeners can be made using bars of varying degrees of abrasiveness. The latter are conditionally divided into the following groups:

• the roughest, which is not applicable in this case (from 200 to 250);
• coarse - to form the profile of the cutting blade of the blade. If there are no visible defects, such stones are not used (from 300 to 350);
• medium - as above, they are used infrequently, mainly for rough adjustment of the blade profile (from 400 to 500);
• small - the main type of stones used for sharpening knives (from 600 to 700);
• very small - used to bring an already sharpened blade to a mirror look.

These stones are made from various materials. A do-it-yourself manual sharpener can be made from natural and artificial bars. Natural - from natural stone(corundum, shale, etc.). Artificial - from synthetic materials or diamond. Moreover, natural ones wear out more strongly and do not differ in large grain size.

Prices for abrasive stones

abrasive bars

Before use, it is preferable to moisten the bars with water or soapy water.

Note: a bar should be used, having a length significantly exceeding the blade being sharpened.

In addition to abrasive bars, can be used:

• homemade devices that serve as their holder;
• sharpening machines for knives;
• mechanical sharpeners;
• musats - devices for finishing a sharpened blade and representing several metal disks nested one inside the other.

This list may be expanded. We have given only the main tools used.

Manual sharpening rules

In order to sharpen the cutting edge correctly, you must follow the specified sequence of actions:

1. on the initial stage we perform work with a bar of medium or large grain size, depending on the condition of the blade; it would be more correct to fix the bar from displacement;
2. determine the required sharpening angle; on each side of the blade, its value is half of the total; the main thing is to keep this angle unchanged;
3. movements should not be jerky; no significant effort should be made;
4. the initial move is carried out away from you, the edge must go along the entire length of the bar. Please note: when in contact with the bar, the blade must be directed at a right angle relative to the direction of movement;
5. in the place of rounding of the blade, it should be turned to maintain the desired angle;
6. at the end of the movement, the blade should not come off the bar, because this may cause it to become dull or damage the side surface;
7. then we move in the opposite direction;
8. we continue the sequence of these operations until a bent thin strip appears on the blade; checking for its presence, you can not run your finger along the blade, because you can easily get hurt on sharp edges; if the knife is sharpened correctly, this edge should be the same width on the entire blade;
9. turn the tool over and repeat the operations until a similar result;
10. we take a smaller donkey and sharpen further, but we no longer move on ourselves - only in the forward direction; since the grain of the bar is smaller, the amount of burr along the edge is also reduced;
11. we process the reverse side in the same way;
12. we repeat these operations on both sides on an even smaller stone; if the burr still remains, we remove it with the finest-grained bar; we remind you that the movements are still carried out in one direction - away from you; the pressing force is reduced towards the end of the operation.

Sharpening finished. It is also possible to finish the blade on a leather strip. An old belt will do just fine.

How to make a homemade fixture

It is quite possible to make a machine for sharpening knives at home. Let's consider some of them.

Option number 1: the blade is fixed on a fixed platform

This device helps to sharpen the blade, providing the required edge angle. Below is a do-it-yourself knife sharpener. Drawings and drawings.

A homemade knife sharpener can be made in the same way as shown in the figure.

The principle of operation and design are clear. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

1. the base can be chipboard or steel plate; it is marked and drilled under the stand and blade holder;
2. on the side of the base opposite to the rack mounting, a hole is drilled for the M8 bolt for attaching the knife clamp;
3. two M10 studs are made: one for the stand, the second for the holder for the abrasive bar;
4. a bracket is made for mounting the holder's stud on the rack (by drilling and bending a steel or aluminum plate;
5. brackets of the whetstone holder itself are made from two corners;
6. a clamp for the blade is made;
7. the structure is assembled in the form shown in the figure.

This device has one drawback: it is not able to provide a right angle between the movement being performed and the blade edge in the place of its rounding.

Option number 2: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder

This problem is solved by the following construction. It is performed in the same way, but a magnetic holder is used to attach the knife. Thus, it is possible to move the magnetic holder with the blade installed in it and turn it to the required angle. This knife sharpener is available with a base plate or can be attached to a table as shown in the photo.

It will greatly facilitate the process of sharpening knives.

How do-it-yourself planer knives are sharpened

Any man who has such equipment in the house has dealt with the sharpening of his knives. To do this, special tools and abrasives are used. Of course, if the machine is often used, it is advisable to have the necessary device at home. Consider how to do it yourself.

How to make a machine for sharpening a planer knife yourself (step by step instructions)

To make a do-it-yourself grinder for straightening this knife, you will need to select the necessary parts:

• plan-washer;
• bed;
• electric motor;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• fencing.

Production is carried out as follows:

1. The electric motor is mounted directly under the bed; be sure to take care of the equipment with its control buttons "stop", "start";
2. A plan washer is installed on the output shaft, which is closed with a square fence with a cut groove;
3. On the lower plane of the table, a hole is made according to the size of the vacuum cleaner sleeve, the latter is designed to remove the dust generated during sharpening.

What you need to know

The electric motor may not necessarily be fixed under the base of the plan-washer. It is possible to use a belt drive, but this will complicate the design.

With this machine, you can also sharpen axes and saws.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharpness of the ice drill allows the fisherman to make no effort to drill holes in the ice during winter fishing. But for this it is necessary to sharpen the knives of this device.

Sharpening methods are quite diverse. One of them is the use of a self-made tool.

How to make an ice drill machine with your own hands

Two steel strips 4 mm thick and 60x200 mm in size are required. Automotive spring steel can be used, but it is difficult to bend. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a different material.

Progress

First, the fixture frame is made. The strips are bent so that the knife chamfers, which are pressed against the edges of the rounding, are at the same level and are parallel to each other.

Then a clamp for sharpened products is made from another strip.

Holes are made in the plate and body. The clamping plate is bolted to the body, with the knives clamped. It is checked how tightly they fit to the surface of the end part of the abrasive wheel.

If the angle of the knives is incorrect, the device should be modified by bending the arc of the body. Convinced of correct placement, disassemble the fixture and weld the stiffeners to the body arc.

It is better to place the emery wheel horizontally, this ensures water retention on its surface. Cooling the knives with water will avoid overheating of the steel during sharpening.

Minus the device

The disadvantage of this machine is the impossibility of its use if the chamfers on the knives are located at different angles. Since different manufacturers of ice screws have different designs, a universal attachment can be of great help.

Implementation of a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

It allows you to overcome the above obstacle. Adjustment of knives is carried out by screws, besides, the possibility of reliable fixation in different positions relative to the abrasive wheel is provided.

This device will require door hinge with a minimum stroke and an M8 screw with a nut. Holes up to 7 mm in diameter are drilled on the shelves of the canopy to secure the knives.

A clamping plate with a groove for the clamping screw is made from a 3 mm thick metal strip. They are boiled to the slats of the canopy.

Additionally, you can drill a few more holes, for greater versatility of the device, so that you can sharpen non-standard knives.

How to sharpen planer knives

This equipment is also widely used at home. It allows you to bring the raw lumber to the required condition. Naturally, sharpening knives for woodworking machines is periodically required.

To make the necessary devices, you will need different materials: steel, wood, etc.

The latch itself is made of wood. Grooves are made on it at 45º. Editing of knives is carried out by a belt grinder or an abrasive bar.

It is important to maintain the exact angle - this ensures the correct processing.

Sharpening with an electric sharpener

Equipment equipped with an electric drive greatly facilitates the work and reduces the duration of the process. But such devices require precision movements and experience.

Do-it-yourself electric knife sharpener is performed with an installed handpiece to support the product being sharpened, with the ability to adjust the gap between it and the abrasive wheel.

Note: must be equipped with a protective shield to protect the eyes from dust.

Processing is performed by the front surface of the circle. You can not use its side faces. The knife is installed on the handpiece with the cutting edge up and held along the axis of the product. The movement is carried out evenly, smoothly, without strong pressure.

After sharpening on both sides, the final refinement of the cutting edge should be carried out with fine-grained stones until the bend of the edge of the blade disappears completely.

Of course, a do-it-yourself knife sharpener can be made, but specialized sharpeners are offered for sale, which are absolutely safe and allow you to freely sharpen knives for any purpose.

To do this, after turning on the device, the knife is inserted into the desired slot and evenly drawn along it until the edge is completely sharpened.

These devices provide excellent sharpening quality. Their disadvantage is the inability to adjust the angle of the cutting edge.

Useful video: knife sharpener ideas

Whatever equipment and tools you use, the main thing is to observe safety when performing this operation. Remember that it is much easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than a sharp one. Therefore, let the knives in your house always be sharpened.

A convenient sharpening machine will be useful to every man in the house. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning bar will suffice, or ready-made fixtures with an angled gap.

To adjust expensive hunting knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, which are based on a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe the manufacture of a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut have a negative effect on the cutting edge. For example, they are present on vegetables, paper. talking plain language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to keep the blade in the right position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists in unified, but at the same time quite laborious methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and calm.

The basic rule for this process— Observance of a precisely specified constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant index, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the skill of sharpening. The angle indicator can be controlled using a conventional marker. They should paint over the carts and after several sharpening cycles, see how much the paint has survived. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not well processed.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then the blade should be sealed with adhesive tape so that only the edge for cutting remains open. Even if you unsuccessfully direct your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

It is also important that the direction of the blade along the bar is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. In fact, this is quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the bar can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will not be useful when cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge can break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two blade lengths. It is acceptable that the diamond bar be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of leading the blade beyond the device. This can damage its side surface or the blade.

Homemade devices for sharpening knives are different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability of the necessary material and skills in working with tools.

The principle of operation of such a device as manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a bar fixed at the right angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpener horizontally and holding the knife at just the right angle.

In order to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden rail, sandpaper and a pair of lamb bots. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the material. So that the bar does not touch the holder when sharpening, it is necessary to clean its edge at an angle with emery.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical rack, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is chosen two times less than the one with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, the drawings of which are obviously drawn up, involves the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the subsequent installation of the transverse support will affect the height indicator. After that, all the details are cut off, and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that fix the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the fixture, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is fixed with bolts.

Vertical posts are attached with screws. The moment that the load on the bottom is small is also taken into account. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal bar is attached in exactly the same way. The grinder is almost ready. It remains to make a bar.

For its manufacture, a rail of the desired length is cut. Sandpaper with the desired size of abrasive is glued to one edge. To optimize the result, you can resort to the manufacture of several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. In order to protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. During operation, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine can also be of a different type. In this case, it is based on the M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts were used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Closes the thread. A pair of paper clips hold the rail stand at the correct height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is a beam, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen planer knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a planer or jointer has probably faced the problem of sharpening their knives. Buying new ones from time to time is expensive. Knives can be easily sharpened by hand. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself planer knife sharpening machine

To sharpen the planer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in the garage or on the plot.

Many are interested in how to make a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. To make a device, you need to find certain parts. Perhaps these parts are lying around in your shed or garage. They can also be purchased online.

The machine for sharpening planer knives with your own hands consists of:

• faceplates;
• table;
• engine;
• vacuum cleaner;
• casing.

First of all, you should find a faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. It is she who is responsible for the sharpening process. Jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate serves as a guarantor of full and safe sharpening. This part will have to be bought new, but the rest can be used old.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find the engine, the power of which should be 1-1.5 kW. It is not necessary to buy it. Any will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone will surely have a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

The main steps in the manufacture of the device

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be comfortable.

For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one cut corner. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

On the bottom surface of the table in the area of ​​sharpening, a hole is made of the same diameter as that of a vacuum cleaner hose. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is desirable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the motor under the faceplate base is optional. You can make sure that the parts are connected by means of a belt. In this case, the design will be complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, all cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a quality ice drill is a great pride. Often, true competitions are held on water bodies in terms of the speed of drilling ice holes. And victory does not always smile at young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported devices. There are times when experienced anglers equipped with simple tools Soviet production. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct setting of the device. Beginner anglers, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye as their knives become blunt. The smallest grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional was. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what is needed to make it?

For the manufacture of such a device as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But she is very hard to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the body of the device. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed against the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making the arc from the same steel strip, the pressure plate is bent, which serves as a lock for the sharpened knives.

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having pulled the body and pressure plate together with a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their fit to the surface of the end face of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives stand correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the arc of the body on both sides.

Sharpening of knives is carried out better on which rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip your knives in the water more often. This will help prevent overheating of the steel.

Minus the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles of the cutting chamfer. But each manufacturer of ice drills offers its own models. In this case, a universal device will do.

Making a universal fixture for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows sharpening knives at any angle of the cutting edge. By smoothly changing the angle between the shoulders of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, it is possible to fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To manufacture this device, you need to find a door canopy with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the shoulders of the canopy. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

From a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm, a fixing plate with a slot for the fixing screw is made. The plate and screw are welded to the shoulders of the canopy.

It happens that sharpening of knives is carried out, the location of the holes of which does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the shoulders for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has more versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Attachments such as planers and thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. By means of them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. Knives of these devices, like any others, become dull. If you use them often, then the best way out is to sharpen the knives for the planer with your own hands. For the manufacture of grinding equipment at home, you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

Knife holder can be made from wooden block. Having made cuts at 45 degrees with a circular saw, you can sharpen knives with a belt grinder or with a large bar. If the latter is not present, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from improvised materials. The optimal solution will be the use of metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be equal to 45 degrees. Using screws, you can fix the knives with a second corner.