Construction / 21.11.2019

Homemade metal lathe. Wood lathe: device, structural units, making homemade What can be done from a small lathe chuck

For "handy" home master desktop lathe for processing metal blanks is the ultimate dream. With its help, the missing parts of the mechanisms being repaired are made, threads are cut, corrugations are made or holes are bored. For some, the universal mechanism opens up new horizons for creativity or hobbies. For others, there is an additional way to replenish the family budget. Unfortunately, the cost of factory equipment in most cases leaves the dream of a complete home workshop unfulfilled. However, the desire to have a lathe at home can be easily fulfilled if you make it yourself. We will tell you more about one of these designs, giving you the opportunity to build a lathe with your own hands.

Purpose and opportunities

The modern lathe is a symbiosis of mechanical parts and electronic components.

The main functions of any modern mechanism, whether it be a simple manual meat grinder or a coal miner, provide rotating parts that could not be made without lathes. A feature of these units is the processing of bodies of revolution by cutting. The machines of the turning group provide manufacturing accuracy unattainable for other metalworking methods. Equipment of this type is easy to automate and allows you to perform the following operations:

longitudinal turning of a smooth or stepped cylindrical surface;
processing of ledges and grooves;
turning of external and internal conical surfaces;
boring of conical and cylindrical holes;
threading (internal or external) with a cutter or drill;
reaming and countersinking of holes;
grooving or cutting off;
shaped turning;
corrugated surface.

The main purpose of lathes is the processing of three types of parts - shafts, bushings and disks, resulting in a variety of axles, flywheels, liners, star blanks, etc. In addition, other workpieces with the shape of bodies of revolution are processed on universal units, for example , body parts.

Screw-cutting lathes - the most popular design among home craftsmen

All existing lathes distinguish between:

on the basis of turning (turning-turret, turning-and-boring, multi-cutting machines, etc. - a total of nine subgroups);
size range, which depends on the diameter of the workpiece;
degrees of specialization (special, universal, etc.);
accuracy class.

The most popular for repetition at home are screw-cutting lathes, which have the most simple design among the above units.

Design

Although the first lathes of the turning group appeared at the end of the 18th century, their architecture was so perfect that it has not undergone significant changes so far. We can say that today we use equipment similar to that used for metalworking two centuries ago.

The design of the screw-cutting lathe

A metal lathe consists of the following components and parts:

The bed, which is the basis for all other elements. The accuracy of processing and the versatility of the device depend on the strength and scrupulousness of its manufacture. The body part of the machine must be a massive, fundamental structure. This is the only way to avoid vibrations and tool displacement during turning operations.
Front spindle head. This unit allows you to fix the workpiece and rotate it during processing. Often the headstock includes a gearbox and a caliper or machining head feed mechanism. This allows you to change the speed of rotation of the part and increases productivity.
Rear grandma. This element is designed to hold the part in a given coordinate system, coaxial to the spindle. In addition, a tool fixed in the tailstock allows you to perform additional operations, such as cutting threads.
Caliper. Without a doubt, this node is one of the most important in the design of the machine. The support is designed to hold the cutting tool and move it relative to the workpiece. Depending on the design, the caliper can feed the cutter in different planes, which makes it possible to obtain parts with a complex configuration of internal and external surfaces. The main requirements for the support are the reliability of holding the tool and the feed accuracy, since this is directly related to the quality of processing.

In the manufacture of a homemade lathe, the design is simplified as much as possible. To do this, elements that are problematic to make at home are modified, and some nodes are completely abandoned. For example, the gearbox can be replaced with several pulleys of different sizes, and the automatic feed can be excluded from the scheme.

What you need to make

An ideal option in the manufacture of a homemade lathe would be to use separate components from decommissioned equipment. If this is not possible, then you will have to make components and parts yourself.

Instead of a cast frame, a frame welded from steel profile pipes and corners. It goes without saying that wooden frame in this case is not an acceptable option. The metal profile will be able to provide the required rigidity and stability of the structure. In addition, with the help of even square and rectangular pipes, it is not difficult to adhere to the strict geometry of the frame. An uneven frame will not make it possible to correctly fix the centers, which will further affect the quality of the work being done.

low power asynchronous motor- excellent power unit for homemade design

For the drive you need a power unit. It is best to use a low-speed asynchronous type electric motor. Unlike collector units, "asynchronous" are practically not at risk of breakage with a sharp decrease in speed.

For processing workpieces with a diameter of not more than 100 mm, an electric motor with a power of 500 - 1000 W will be enough. If you plan to grind larger parts, you will need at least a 1.5-kilowatt power unit.

In addition, you will have to choose a drive belt (or several belts of various lengths). Do not forget about the fasteners with which individual nodes will be attached to the body. For a homemade lathe, nuts and bolts with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm with a conventional metric thread are suitable.

As a sled, parts machined from a steel bar with subsequent hardening are used, but guides made from suspension struts or long shafts of industrial mechanisms would be the best option. They have excellent geometry, and their surface is hardened in the factory.

The tailstock, like the spindle, is best used from decommissioned factory equipment

The tailstock can also be made from shaped pipes and a thick metal sheet, but the quill is made from a hardened pointed bolt, several nuts with the same thread and a steering wheel made from a pulley from agricultural machinery. Using a home-made quill will require each time you fasten a part to lubricate the contacting surfaces with lithol or grease. A similar procedure will not be needed with a factory-made rotating center, so if possible, then this part is better to buy.

The longitudinal and transverse feed screws can also be turned on a lathe or use a long threaded rod that can be bought at hardware hypermarkets.

For feed screws, a finely threaded shaft is used - this will significantly improve the positioning accuracy of the working tool.

For rotation nodes, rolling bearings installed in the housing will be needed, and pulleys of various diameters mounted on the drive shaft will allow you to adjust the speed. These parts can be bought or ordered from a familiar turner.

Making a caliper will require stocking up on a steel plate with a thickness of at least 8mm. It can also be used for the holder.

Another node that cannot be made in artisanal conditions is the spindle. It will have to be bought. Spindle mounting requires the manufacture of a shaft on which the driven pulleys will be mounted. The strength of this part must be impeccable, so it is best to use parts from decommissioned factory mechanisms.

There are designs in which there is no belt drive. Rotation from the motor shaft is transmitted directly to the spindle. Of course, they have the right to exist, however, when choosing such a scheme, be prepared for the frequent failure of the motor bearings.

In addition to the lathe, in the process of work you will need such tools and equipment:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
grinding and emery machine;
electric drill and a set of drills for metal;
taps and dies for threading;
set of wrenches;
caliper, metal ruler;
marker.

All these tools and materials will allow you to make a full-fledged desktop-type lathe. If it was not possible to get some details, do not despair - for a while they can be replaced with something else. So, a chuck from an electric drill is quite used instead of a spindle if it is necessary to process small workpieces.

Dimensions and drawings

Determining the dimensions of the machine, first of all, they are guided by the maximum length and diameter of the workpieces. Recall that in industry, low-power turning equipment has the following boundary parameters:

length - up to 1150 mm;
width - up to 620 mm;
the distance from the upper surface of the frame to the spindle axis (axis height) is about 180 mm.

It is hardly worth exceeding these values on homemade equipment. We must not forget that with an increase in size, the risk of distortion of the machine geometry increases many times over. When choosing the size of the caliper and determining the extreme points of its movement, calculating the distance between the centers and the limits of movement of the tool holder, it is best to focus on the drawings of home-made machines. Made by craftsmen, they have proven their efficiency in practice, so it would be foolish not to use proven solutions.

Instructions for making a simple do-it-yourself lathe

Since everyone decides what his lathe will look like and what dimensions it will have, it is impossible to give an accurate description of the manufacture of all parts with dimensions, tolerances and fits. However, the process of building any lathe consists of the same steps.

Frame manufacturing. As mentioned above, it is impossible to make a massive cast-iron bed at home. Therefore, its role will be played by a frame made of a channel or steel profile pipes, which are cut to size and then welded according to the drawing. It is important to observe the correctness of all right angles, so control with a square should be carried out every time the next joint is made. It is best to work on a flat, horizontal slab. This will make it possible to obtain a frame with strict geometry in the horizontal plane. You can do without a massive bed, making it from long shafts as guides.
Parts for the manufacture of the bed
On a lathe, side racks of the bed are made.
side stand
Assemble guides with racks. In this case, distance bushings are installed between the side support elements.
Mounting rails on racks
Bushings for attaching the tailstock and tool holder are mounted on the guides. It is not necessary to make them the same length. One part can be made shorter than the other, using the long element as a guide, and the shorter one to support the moving parts. This solution will increase the working stroke of the rear center.
Installing the main feed bushings and guides
From a steel sheet with a thickness of 8 - 10 mm, the mounting sites for the quill and caliper are made and fastened to the guide and retaining bushings using bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. Particular attention should be paid to the mounting holes, since the slightest inaccuracy will lead to distortion and jamming of the moving parts of the machine.
Installation of the support pads of the caliper and tailstock
Install lead screw. You can machine this part from a workpiece or use a threaded part from any device, for example, from a high chair with variable height. Be sure to make sure that anti-friction bushings made of bronze or brass are installed in the corresponding holes in the side racks.
A vernier and a steering wheel are attached to the lead screw.
Installing the main feed screw
A platform for attaching the headstock is installed, after which the assembly of the frame is considered complete.
From the bearing support, two ball bearings, the main shaft with pulleys and the spindle, the headstock is assembled.
Assembling the headstock
From a long screw, bushings with internal thread, metal profiles and handles, a tailstock is made, after which the rear movable assembly is mounted on the machine.
Control and, if necessary, adjust the alignment of the front and rear centers.
Assemble the support. The process of its manufacture is similar to the assembly of the frame - the guides are equipped with bushings, a screw, a vernier and a small steering wheel are mounted.
A tool holder is made from a thick metal plate and bolts with a diameter of 8 mm, after which it is installed on the caliper.

A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a home-made metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for manufacturing, but the size of the machine can be any.

Components of a mini-lathe for metal with your own hands

Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

drive - the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Choosing a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small lathes for metal with your own hands, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drills. Usually, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute - from 1500;
bed - the supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden bars or a steel corner. The bed must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the whole structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel corner welded to it. The plate rests against the guide beds, and the main purpose of the tailstock of the lathe with your own hands is to fix the metal part during processing;
headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
leading and slave centers;
caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Someone prefers to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, the torque can be transmitted using a friction, belt or chain drive. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The belt drive for the electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by enough high level reliability. For its manufacture, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensively you work with the machine.

The device of the front and rear headstock of a lathe. Headstock (left): 1 - wedge-shaped belt; 2 - two-stage pulley; 3 - spindle; 4 - ball bearing. Tailstock (right): 1 - body; 2 - center; 3, 6 - handles; 4 - quill; 5, 12, 14 - screws; 7 - flywheel; 8 - thrust; 9, 10 - levers; 13 - nut

A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

Do-it-yourself lathe caliper: drawings, how to make from improvised materials

The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part depends on it, as well as the amount of time and effort that you spend on its manufacture. This part is located on a special sled that moves along the guides located on the bed. The caliper can move in three directions:

longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal motion is used to turn a thread into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
oblique - movement at different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.

When making a lathe caliper with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners are loosened, there is a backlash, all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.

Do-it-yourself adjustment of a home-made caliper for a lathe is carried out according to gaps, backlash and oil seals. Clearance adjustment is needed when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under loads, which significantly reduces the accuracy of manufacturing the part. You can eliminate the gaps by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The backlash of the part is eliminated with a fixing screw.

If the oil seals are worn out in your machine, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked with fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the seals with new ones.

Caliper device: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - cross slide of the caliper; 4 - the rotary part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotary part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for fixing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fixing the cutters; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - the upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guide carriages; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the supply of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron

Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for metal with your own hands: assembly procedure

The mechanism is assembled in the following order:

The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used with the expectation of a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal blanks over 50 mm long, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.

Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.

The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.

The shaft is laid. For this, bearings with a large inner diameter are used.

Lubricant is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.

A pulley and a caliper with guides are installed.

The electric drive is mounted.

In addition, according to the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that a handpiece is made to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, and a thin strip of metal is fixed on the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.

The device of a home-made lathe for metal processing: 1, 7 - channels; 2 - running pipe; 3 - tailstock; 4 - pallet for collecting chips; 5 - support; 6 - lead screw; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fixed headstock; 10 - lamp in a protective cap-reflector; 11 - mesh screen to protect the turner from chips; 12 - support

Choosing an electric motor for a machine

The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, the video of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal blanks with which you plan to work.

If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from an old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large parts, you will need an engine with a power of 1.5-2 kW.

When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be securely insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help from a specialist in connection. So you will be sure of the safety of work and the reliability of the design.

Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a conventional electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:

The ability to quickly assemble and disassemble the structure - the drill is easily detached from the bed and can be used for its intended purpose.

Ease of carrying and transporting the machine - a good option if you have to work with metal blanks in the garage and on the street.

Savings - the drill acts not only as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use interchangeable nozzles as a working tool.

Of course, there are negative sides at a lathe from a drill. How to make processing large parts possible with this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively small torque and big number revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will greatly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.

Making a homemade desktop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only small details need to be turned.

To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of an electric motor and a headstock. The role of the latter is also performed by a drill. Given the compactness of the design, an ordinary table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is fixed in the structure with a clamp and a clamp.

Using a homemade lathe, you can not only grind parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of a part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, then with its help you can quickly and without special efforts produce small identical parts.

Features of the work of lathes for metal with their own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be considered during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors in the processing of the part. To get rid of vibrations, the leading and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism should be attached to it.

In do-it-yourself desktop lathes for metal, it is not recommended to install a commutator motor. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to the departure of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work injury or property damage. If, however, it is impossible to do without installing a collector motor, it is imperative to install a gearbox with it to lower the speed.

The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal blanks with a width of up to 100 mm.

The rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common assembly errors, but also save time and effort due to the visibility of the material.

Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its performance. The spindle should turn easily and without delay, the front and rear centers should be aligned on common axis. The center of symmetry of a rotating part must coincide with its axis of rotation.

On any video of the lathe with your own hands, you can see that after mounting the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the operator of the machine, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.

You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

The working tool must be parallel to the surface of the workpiece. Otherwise, it may come off, resulting in damage to the machine.

If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.

To protect your eyes from metal chips and particles, you can build a special shield or just use goggles.

After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts get into the motor.

Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

If you need a mechanism that can not only perform turning work, but also grind and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part in it.

There are several popular modifications of the lathe for metal. How to make a conical hole? To do this, two files must be attached to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After that, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows drilling cone-shaped holes into the part.

In addition, to work with metal parts different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. With the help of several boards or metal corners, you can bring the working tool closer or further away from the fasteners that hold the part, as well as change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a conventional table or workbench.

If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, you can use the machine not only to polish the surface of the part, but also to sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.

Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, you can literally assemble the structure from improvised parts, using old household appliances and waste from assembly and construction production.

Main advantage self assembly is a cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A home-made machine can be not only large, but also quite miniature, designed for processing small parts.

The dream of every do-it-yourselfer, modeler and home craftsman is a lathe. Everyone who managed to privatize socialist property today has huge bonuses in the form of lathes, drilling and other small-scale mechanization in their garages and workshops. Who could not - you have to make machines with your own hands, because minimum cost a small, average Chinese lathe device corresponds to the annual salary of our non-deputy. There is only one way out - to do it yourself, which is what we will do now.

Benchtop lathe, main components

Do-it-yourself mini lathe for metal is performed on the basis of what was done in the production environment, but for one reason or another, it no longer serves its intended purpose. This means that the main components and assemblies will have to be taken from other devices that are completely unsuitable for this, adapt them and use all your ingenuity.

So, the main parts of a screw-cutting or turning-milling machine should be:

Actually, these are only the main parts that have to be made or selected from what is at hand.

Parameters, advantages and disadvantages

The main parameters of the lathe, which will be made by hand, are linear dimensions, power and processing accuracy. We are not talking about a specific device now, since everyone sets tasks on their own, and in the drawings and diagrams presented on the page, you can find a suitable option for yourself. We are talking about the idea of creating a tool in principle and its main parameters.

So, depending on how far from the guides the center of the spindle and tailstock will be, the diameter of the workpiece will be determined. The length of the workpiece actually depends on the degree of freedom of movement of the tailstock along the guides. The same applies to the feeder, which must match the dimensions of the maximum diameter of the workpiece.

But you need to be prepared for the fact that a homemade lathe will not be able to provide high processing accuracy and high speed. This will be a device for making parts with a low accuracy class. On what it depends, we will understand further.

Machining on lathes, diagrams and drawings

Briefly about the control system, we can say that if knowledge and skills in engineering radio modeling allow, you can always make the simplest screw-cutting or numerical control. CNC lathes allow you to automate the same type of work and they are needed if the master has to do a large number of identical blanks according to the template.

In the main mass desktop machines designed to perform one-time work, so the use of complex programming systems is hardly justified on machines with a low degree of accuracy.

Accuracy and performance of a homemade device

In the event that the task is to create a machine for metal cutting with a high degree of accuracy, you need Special attention pay guides and bed. Many perform structural elements made of wood, this is a fun budget solution, but it will not provide the desired accuracy simply because the material of the bed and guides must be harder than the workpiece.

Therefore, all beds and guides for metal lathes are made only of metal. It is advisable to use factory guides, but if this is not possible, which happens most often, then you have to use rolled metal, as in the example that we cited from an ancient English magazine. That is, all the details that are responsible for accuracy and strength must be made in production conditions, such as this option, where automotive connecting rods are used as centering elements.

Making a lathe for metal is a creative and unhurried work. You need to think over all the details a hundred times, draw a couple of dozen drawings, and only then proceed to the manufacture of the machine in metal. But in any case, direct hands and ingenuity will lead to the successful creation of a practical and functional lathe. Good luck in the field of small engineering!

Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

drive - the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Choosing a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small lathes for metal with your own hands, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Usually, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute - from 1500;
bed - the supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden bars or a steel corner. The bed must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the whole structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel corner welded to it. The plate rests against the guide beds, and the main purpose of the tailstock of the lathe with your own hands is to fix the metal part during processing;
headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
leading and slave centers;
caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

A belt drive for an electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. For its manufacture, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensively you work with the machine.

A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

Useful advice! When assembling a lathe, choose the type of gear that best suits the tasks. For example, for DIY mini lathe better fit installation of the working part directly on the shaft.

Do-it-yourself lathe caliper: drawings, how to make from improvised materials

longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal motion is used to turn a thread into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
oblique - movement at different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.

Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for metal with your own hands: assembly procedure

The mechanism is assembled in the following order:

The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used with the expectation of a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal blanks over 50 mm long, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
The shaft is laid. For this, bearings with a large inner diameter are used.
Lubricant is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
A pulley and a caliper with guides are installed.
The electric drive is mounted.

Useful advice! A do-it-yourself metal lathe can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. To do this, a grinding wheel is attached to the electric shaft.

Choosing an electric motor for a machine

Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a conventional electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:

The ability to quickly assemble and disassemble the structure - the drill is easily detached from the bed and can be used for its intended purpose.
The ease of carrying and transporting the machine is a good option if you have to work with metal blanks in the garage and on the street.
Savings - the drill acts not only as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use interchangeable nozzles as a working tool.

Of course, there are also negative sides to a lathe from a drill. How to make processing large parts possible with this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively small torque and a large number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will greatly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.

Making a homemade desktop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only small details need to be turned.

Useful advice! The functionality of a lathe based on an electric drill can be significantly expanded by adding various nozzles and additional devices to its design.

Features of the work of lathes for metal with their own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its performance. The spindle should rotate easily and without delay, the front and rear centers must be aligned on a common axis. The center of symmetry of a rotating part must coincide with its axis of rotation.

Useful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to work with it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.

You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

The working tool must be parallel to the surface of the workpiece. Otherwise, it may come off, resulting in damage to the machine.
If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
To protect your eyes from metal chips and particles, you can build a special shield or just use goggles.
After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts get into the motor.

Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. With the help of several boards or metal corners, you can bring the working tool closer or further away from the fasteners that hold the part, as well as change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a conventional table or workbench.

The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A home-made machine can be not only large, but also quite miniature, designed for processing small parts.

Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

drive - the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Choosing a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small lathes for metal with your own hands, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Usually, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute - from 1500;
bed - the supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden bars or a steel corner. The bed must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the whole structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel corner welded to it. The plate rests against the guide beds, and the main purpose of the tailstock of the lathe with your own hands is to fix the metal part during processing;
headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
leading and slave centers;
caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

Useful advice! When assembling a lathe, choose the type of gear that best suits the tasks. For example, for a do-it-yourself mini-lathe, it is better to install the working part directly on the shaft.

Do-it-yourself lathe caliper: drawings, how to make from improvised materials

longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal motion is used to turn a thread into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
oblique - movement at different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.

Caliper device: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - cross slide of the caliper; 4 - the rotary part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotary part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for fixing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - the upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guide carriages; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the supply of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron

Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for metal with your own hands: assembly procedure

The mechanism is assembled in the following order:

The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used with the expectation of a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal blanks over 50 mm long, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
The shaft is laid. For this, bearings with a large inner diameter are used.
Lubricant is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
A pulley and a caliper with guides are installed.
The electric drive is mounted.

Useful advice! A do-it-yourself metal lathe can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. To do this, a grinding wheel is attached to the electric shaft.

Choosing an electric motor for a machine

Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a conventional electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:

The ability to quickly assemble and disassemble the structure - the drill is easily detached from the bed and can be used for its intended purpose.
The ease of carrying and transporting the machine is a good option if you have to work with metal blanks in the garage and on the street.
Savings - the drill acts not only as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use interchangeable nozzles as a working tool.

Diagram of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support

Making a homemade desktop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only small details need to be turned.

Useful advice! The functionality of a lathe based on an electric drill can be significantly expanded by adding various nozzles and additional devices to its design.

Features of the work of lathes for metal with their own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

Useful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to work with it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.

You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

The working tool must be parallel to the surface of the workpiece. Otherwise, it may come off, resulting in damage to the machine.
If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
To protect your eyes from metal chips and particles, you can build a special shield or just use goggles.
After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts get into the motor.

Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. can be not only large, but also quite miniature, designed for processing small parts.

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Homemade metal lathe. Wood lathe: device, structural units, making homemade What can be done from a small lathe chuck