Aged doors: the fastest way to get the effect of antiquity. Artificial aging of objects. Techniques and methods  Processing the board with an iron brush

Important! When purchasing lumber, consider their classification. To create a worn effect, class C is more suitable, which is characterized by an unlimited number of knots (including fallen ones), cracks and depressions. If the spirit of excessive antiquity is not to your liking, you can give preference to class AB boards. They have a lot less defects.

Patina was once called a thin oxide coating on copper products. Today it is a popular technique in the processing of both metal and wood products.

The method is laborious, although it is carried out using the application of special reagents. Its implementation requires extreme accuracy, perseverance and attentiveness.

If you are not experienced with these techniques, it is advisable to practice on scrap wood. Designers love to use patination when decorating a home in country and classic styles.
by the most simple option experts consider rubbing wax into the relief bulges of the surface, which creates a worn effect. We will go by applying patina.

So let's get to work:

1. With sandpaper, carefully polish the surface of the board, removing the old staining as much as possible.
2. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any remaining dust.
3. To enhance the adhesive characteristics of wood, prime it (it is important to choose a primer for antique restoration) and dry.
4. After a day, you can start applying the patina. To do this, it is better to get acrylic paint. You need to act with the utmost caution. After painting, the surface must dry for 24 hours.
5. Apply the next coat of bronze or metallic paint in small strokes in all directions. It is important not to overdo it with the amount of patina. Immediately, without allowing the applied layer to dry, rub its excess with a piece of foam rubber.
6. When the paint begins to dry, use a dry rag to rub all the bulges, which will provide the effect of antiquity.
7. Varnish the entire surface. This will give it sophistication and protect it from mechanical damage and excessive dampness.

Video: furniture patching

Important! Patination is not used on parts with which a person often comes into contact. The paint wears off very quickly, which gives the effect of untidyness instead of the spirit of antiques..

The effect of aging is achieved by complex processing of lumber. This technique is carried out in several stages:

This method looks original only on hardwoods, since their wood contains tannins. When in contact with chemical reagents, they darken, due to which the effect of wear occurs.

Important! If there are signs of fungus on the wood, a special chlorine-based bleach will help get rid of the problem. Please note that it penetrates 3 cm deep into the material.

The technology is characterized by simplicity and the presence of different variations, with which you can achieve a greater or lesser degree of aging.

Be sure to sand the surface with a piece of sandpaper with a large fraction before work. And then choose the method of your choice:

1. Rub the board generously with ammonia. Reacting with the material, the substance will provoke the appearance of a noble darkening. When it comes to aging a certain area on the wall, you can distribute the reagent unevenly, which will enhance the effect.
2. Use a polymer brush to brush the board so that the growth rings clearly show through. Then cover the lumber with stain and open with varnish.
3. Paint the sanded surface with enamel paint and dry. On the dried layer, apply a second paint of a more liquid consistency. Let dry and sand with a fine fraction of individual sections of wood.
4. Coat the wood with a water-based stain. After that, partially wash off the coating in the middle zone, leaving dark edges.

Even at home, you can make fragments of semi-antique finishes and decor, although in fact they will be completely new. In this process, it is important to show maximum imagination and diligence, and then your wooden items will look no worse than those offered for sale in antique shops.

The use of natural wood in the design home interior gives the premises a more solid look. Antique imitation is also popular in the manufacture of furniture, but the cost of such work when contacting cabinetmakers is high. You can complete the entire cycle of work yourself, since aging a tree with your own hands is not too difficult. It only takes time minimum set tools and desire.

What is it for?

Any processing of wood in order to improve the decorative properties also has a positive effect on its safety, since it is associated with the application of several layers of coloring compositions and varnishes on the surface. The service life of properly aged products is much longer than those that have been subjected to minimal impact. Such furniture is less susceptible to decay, mold, damage by insects and other pests.

But the main goal artificial aging- giving wooden elements special external properties that will allow them to look more solid. But it is important to understand that the entire interior of the room must comply with a single style.

Preparation for work

Different types of wood can be aged in different ways. A number of methods are not suitable for working with certain varieties.

Table 1. Methods of aging and types of rocks that can be subjected to techniques.

Impacts on the surface with the help of special compositions can be divided into techniques:

• use of a dry brush;
• patination;
• glaze;
• spatter;
• crackle;
• method of creating scuffs (Shabby Chic);
• etching (using compositions such as stains).

Processing with physical impact on wooden planes is also possible:

• brushing– technique using brushes with metal pile (cord brushes);
• burning- the use of fire or metal heated to a high temperature;
• in hot sand.

Other methods are also possible - for example, imitation of natural damage, which is achieved with an awl, sandpaper and other tools.

Advice! All of the above methods can be combined to achieve greater reliability.

How to grow old with your own hands

Most methods of self-aging wood do not require specialized tools and expensive materials. It is important to work carefully and slowly.

Dry brush method

What will be required:

• synthetic flat brush;
• sample palette;
• paints and solvent.

Sequencing.

1. A small amount of paint should be applied to the brush. Remove excess with a rag.
2. Test on the palette. It is necessary to ensure that each hair gives a separate trace.
3. The same must be done for wooden surface. With gentle movements of the brush, gently apply the paint to the product along the fibers.

This method will help to imitate scuffs and emphasize the relief.

Creating a patina

Lacquered or painted objects partially darken over time - this is due to constant contact with hands and for other reasons. Most often, such a change concerns the corners and relief parts of the product.

To simulate the master use:

• acrylic coloring compositions;
• bituminous varnishes;
• shellac;
• wax.

The application of bituminous varnishes is accompanied by their immediate removal from most of the surface. The irregularities of the wooden object will still remain dark. After drying, cover the product with a layer of shellac. When using wax polishes, they are rubbed on the wood, and after drying (which will take a long time) they will manifest themselves in the form of reflections.

Master Class. Do-it-yourself patination on the example of a furniture box

We present to you step by step instructions on patination of wood to create the effect of scuffs on it.

Step one. To begin with, the box is carefully polished, for which sandpaper is used. Thanks to this, you will eliminate all the roughness and irregularities. Then, when the processing is completed, you need to remove the dust with a rag.

Step two. All places where scuffs will be in the future are treated with simple wax from a candle. For example, these may be some sections of the flat surface of the box, its side parts. Still, all these areas can be pre-treated with a primer on wood, but - and this is important - an exceptionally thin layer.

Step three. The main color paint is applied to the box (in our example it is white acrylic paint). Apply gently with a brush to all surfaces. Acrylic paint dries quickly. All subsequent work should be carried out only after it has dried.

Step four. The box is re-processed with sandpaper. Due to this, parts of the paint will be removed, and therefore grinding should be carried out only in the right places. With those areas that have been waxed, there will be no difficulty in removing the paint. It is also important to move along the fibers of the wood.

Note! Do not use very coarse sandpaper. Otherwise, you may damage the surface of the wood.

Step five. Now we want the wood to look stained at the corners of the box. This can be done using special composition, called patina (give preference to the one that is water-based). A small amount of paint is applied to the palette (or any other suitable surface).

Step six. For applying patina, it is better to use a piece of sponge. The latter is pre-wetted in a patinating composition, after which the paint is applied to the surface with soft, gentle movements.

Step seven. When all the compositions are dry, the box should be varnished (preferably matte, not glossy). Everything, the work can be considered completed. Now it remains to wait for the box to dry, screw the fittings. You can use the furniture drawer!

On a note! If desired, the patina can be applied in two layers - this allows you to get a more saturated color. But in this case, you don’t need to overdo it, otherwise the furniture will not look natural.

Video - How to patinate furniture facades

Glaze

The essence of the method is to apply several layers of paint, and the lower (darker) ones should shine through the translucent upper ones. What coloring compositions can be used:

• watercolor;
• oil;
• acrylic.

Reference! Many also use strong tea leaves.

1. Apply the 1st layer with a flat brush or sponge.
2. Next, you need to let the product dry. View the result of the work.
3. If necessary, put another layer - to increase the intensity of the color.
4. Top with translucent paint - also 1-2 layers.

The result should be a surface painted in different shades that shine through each other.

The technique consists in covering surfaces with droplets of paint, which will give it an original look. Most often used in conjunction with other aging techniques.

You will need:

• brush with hard bristles;
• a container with water;
• paints.

It also makes sense to prepare some object (for example, a sheet of paper) on which you can practice spraying.

Advice! It is recommended to cover the table and nearby objects with newspapers so as not to stain them during work.

Process description.

1. Wet the brush with water.
2. Dip into the paint, gaining a small amount of it.
3. Try to spray on the surface of the test object, evaluating the result. To apply droplets on a plane, you can bend the bristle of the brush with your fingers or a match. Also process wooden planes.
4. Lacquer the item.

Advice! To get large splashes, you need to capture more paint with a brush, and to apply small point drops, on the contrary, as little as possible.

Crackle

This method is often used by artists to create craquelure - imitation of aging, looks like a paint layer cracked from time to time - in the form of a web. It can also be used for aging wooden painted or varnished products. One of the most effective methods

There are two ways to get a craquelure surface.

one step

1. The main layer of varnish or paint is applied.
2. The part is left until the paintwork is completely dry.
3. On top of the 1st layer, a thick layer of a special composition - craquelure varnish should be applied.
4. Dry for 35-40 minutes, if you use a hair dryer, the process will speed up. It is important that the layer looks like it is completely set, but feels slightly damp to the touch.
5. Dilute acrylic paint with water. The rule applies: the more liquid the paint, the larger the "cells" of the craquelure cobweb will be.
6. Apply the resulting solution flat brush. The direction of movement of the pile will coincide with future cracks.

Important! Only one pass should be made in one place. Otherwise, the composition will begin to roll off the plane.

After 24 hours after drying, a finishing coat must be applied. It is better to use shellac or acrylic varnishes. The result should be a surface with a cracked top layer of paint, and the first layer is visible in the cracks.

two step

1. The main coating of the wooden surface is made - shellac is applied. You can use a clarified composition or a regular one. At least 2-3 layers, each of which dries for 15-30 minutes. It is desirable to take into account the humidity of the air. With increased (more than 45-50%), the drying time increases.
2. The next layer is applied craquelure varnish. Cracks will appear faster if you place the wooden product in a warm, dry place - next to heating radiator or stove.
3. After the appearance of craquelure, you need to wipe them using a regular cloth or a piece of sponge. As a composition to be rubbed into the cobweb, use the usual oil paint(the one that artists paint), crushed pastel or bituminous varnishes.
4. Shellac is applied on top.

The method is more time consuming compared to the one-step method, but it looks much more impressive.

1. It is necessary to prepare materials: rinse the eggshell, dry it.
2. Prime the wooden surface.
3. Glue shell particles on top, large fragments can be pressed through to obtain a fine craquelure mesh. To move small particles, use a match or a toothpick. Adhesive used: either PVA or acrylic varnishes.
4. Drying the product.
5. You can grout the surface with oil paints.
6. The last stage is the application of the final layer of acrylic varnish.

The resulting surface will look and feel old - with peeling paint.

Other ways to create artificial craquelure:

• use of facet varnishes. They are applied to the surface with a brush or spatula. The thicker the layer (minimum 2 mm), the larger the mesh will be. Dries for days. The last layer is acrylic;
• special craquelure paint- the second way to obtain an aged surface in one step. The composition already has a certain color. Cracks will appear during the drying process;
• two-component varnishes for creating microcraquelure- colorless compounds that do not change the basic tone of the surface, add a cobweb with small cells.

All patination methods have been repeatedly tested by design and decor experts.

Creation of scuffs

Not very difficult but effective method aging. For work you will need:

• paints (acrylic);
• paraffin;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes.

1. The product is covered with the main layer of paint. Moreover, it is applied only to the corners and those places that it was decided to age. It is important to achieve saturated shades.
2. Dry the paint.
3. Rub the painted surfaces with paraffin.
4. Apply two more layers of acrylic composition already on the entire product, blocking the first paraffin coating.
5. Places where the first layer (with paraffin) is present is processed with sandpaper. Graininess can be chosen at your discretion.
6. Dust must be carefully removed.
7. If desired, combinations with other techniques are possible: adding splashes, patina.
8. Finishing coat - 2-3 layers of acrylic composition.

Advice! For rubbing, you can use a regular candle.

Etching

The method of chemical action on wood. Most often, craftsmen prefer to age products made from hardwood. Special formulations can be used as chemicals:

• inkstone
• zinc sulfate;
• potassium chromopic;
• calcium chloride.

Or what is in every house:

• diluted potassium permanganate;
• bluing;
• vinegar solution.

Small products can be immersed in the solution as a whole, and large products can be treated with a brush or swab. It is important to take a fabric that will not leave particles on the treated surface.

Different chemicals interact with wood fibers in different ways. For example, Epsom salt leaves purple spots on a birch, and iron sulfate leaves olive ones.

The process consists in the primary machining of the part with sandpaper and the application of a chemical solution. After the reaction and drying, the product will receive the appropriate form, after which it will be possible to continue working with it.

brushing

A kind of mechanical action on the structure of wood. Use metal brushes or special nozzles for drill. The method is based on the removal of softer upper layers, while remaining solid. After such processing, paints and varnishes can be applied or other methods of artificial aging can be applied.

The following breeds are practically not amenable to this technique:

• maple;
• cherry;
• pear.

Surface treatment is carried out along the grain of the wood.

Burning

One of the types of thermal aging of the product. It is best to use a miniature gas burner - it is more convenient for working with both large and small parts.

By acting on the planes with open fire for different times, you can achieve the appropriate shades - from light brown to radical black. Often after this, processing with a metal brush (brushing) is performed.

Advice! Such manipulations should be carried out outdoors, in a garage or a special workshop, observing fire safety measures.

Sand firing

The process looks like this.

1. Washed dry river sand without impurities is poured into a metal tank.
2. Heated to a temperature of about 200 degrees.
3. Put blanks in the sand.
4. Hold until surfaces darken.

The technique will require some experience to get the best result. It is important to consider that the lower layers of sand are hotter than the upper ones, so the bottom of the workpiece will darken somewhat faster than its top. By placing and changing the arrangement of details in the sand in different ways, you can achieve different effects and smooth transitions from light to dark tones.

Sand firing is also combined with other methods of wood aging.

other methods

Masters use other methods for aging wood. Examples:

• using a conventional awl, they create an imitation of damage to the structure by bugs (make holes);
• wrapped in a piece of cloth metal objects(bolts or nuts) with the resulting “bag” are hit on the planes of the workpiece - imitation of damage;
• use burning and laser devices for point processing.

Combinations of different techniques are carried out depending on the initial state of the planes of the tree and on what effect you want to achieve.

Working with wooden blanks requires accuracy and care. Sometimes the defects obtained during the work are very difficult to correct.

1. It is important to use high-quality and proven varnishes and paints. The same applies to pickling chemicals.
2. A common mistake: they do not allow the already laid layers of paint to dry completely and begin further processing. Curing times are indicated on the paint cans.
3. Be sure to take into account the air temperature and relative humidity. The drier and warmer, the faster the varnishes or paints will dry.
4. Surfaces must be properly cleaned and free of dirt before varnishing.

Features of working with shellac

This type of varnish is considered professional and expensive, it is used to protect many products: furniture, decorative ornaments, musical instruments. It is sold both in finished form (you can immediately use it) and in dry form - you will need to dilute the resin yourself.

For beginners the first is better time to buy alcohol varnishes that are already suitable for work, this will allow you to learn how to work with them correctly, without being distracted by cooking methods, although the cost of such mixtures is high. After a while, you can try to make shellac yourself. Proportion of breeding: 900 g of shellac will require 240 ml of denatured alcohol. Application methods: swab or brush.

There are several methods, but the main sequence is as follows.

1. The first layers (2-3) are applied with a brush. You can use a sprayer.
2. Grinding to bare wood - you need to align the pores filled with shellac with the main plane.
3. Using a linen or cotton swab, the varnish is applied along the grain of the wood. It is impossible to stop movement on the plane.
4. Work should continue until the desired glossy shade appears.

In addition to longitudinal movements, shellac can be rubbed in circles or "eights" - this way you can better achieve continuity. This job requires experience.

Results

To give wooden product a special kind, as if he was already many years old, designers use artificial aging techniques. Some of them can be easily done on your own, and some will require special attention and accuracy. In most cases, expensive materials will not be needed.

Video - How to age wood

03.09.2016 71960

Sometimes emphasizing old age - original solution unsightly sash problems. So, beautiful without additional expenses. Of course, the effect should be deliberate - slovenliness is out of place in any interior. do-it-yourself wood aging - methods, tools and materials are described below.

Types of artificial aging of wood

The vintage original look of the doors is obtained in several ways. Below, they are listed in order of increasing effort and cost. The operation algorithm is also described. So:

• Thermal method or firing. The process will require a blowtorch and a coarse wood aging brush. The intensity of exposure is determined by the master himself - as a result, you can get pronounced natural patterns of wood or barely visible. After firing, the surface of the canvas is skinned with a large emery cloth in different places to give the appearance of heterogeneity. The door for this method of aging should be massive, plank. Appropriate fittings - massive steel handles and.

How to do it right:

Cleared from. Use a hair dryer or solvent. The canvas is carefully sanded, the boards are knocked down so that there are no gaps. Not bad before aging with all sorts of protections - flame retardant, moisture-retaining composition. The existing cracks are left - they will give even more flavor. Hinges and handles are removed. The method takes a little time, it is safe with the skills of working with the tool.

• Blackening. The effect is achieved by rubbing shoe polish, stain or a strong manganese solution into the cleaned canvas. Pigmentation lingers on annual rings, sections, knots, and thus, it turns out, the effect of the opening darkened from old age is achieved. In addition, the last composition helps to disinfect the canvas if traces of mold or fungus are detected during cleaning.

How to do it right:

Everything ingenious is simple! To get antique doors, the previously cleaned surface with a solvent and a spatula is covered with black ink, and then the shoe polish melted to a liquid state is rubbed with a brush. You need to rub hard. The method has a drawback - removed door leaf it is important to ventilate during the week - the smell is unpleasant.

• Traces of bark beetle. They represent paths from the movement of the larva. You can create them on the semi-antique door with your own hands using bent nails. Having spread them on the surface, they are driven in with a hammer, leaving dents over the entire area. It is important to free the rods from the hats in order to create a complete imitation. After work, the canvas is sanded with a fine sandpaper, making sure that the chip dust gets a little into the grooves. Next, varnish.

These antique effects are very easy and fast to get. The style of an apartment or house must be consistent, otherwise the effect is inappropriate.

Work with paint and varnish

You can get aged doors in other ways. They will require more time and labor. In addition, costs will increase due to the purchase of several shades of paint. So:

• A popular dry brush method. The canvas is cleaned and covered with a base primer. Until the layer is completely dry, with the end of a dry brush, strokes of a different shade are applied. The combination of colors can be different - contrasting or moving from one shade to another. Now the layers are given time to dry. The finished surface is cleaned with emery skins to further highlight the areas of scuffs. Again, a layer of a helmet of a different color is applied. The final color is pale yellow or white, which is used to cover the door with strokes. Allow to dry again and then sand. The final layer is varnish.
• Craquelure. Such artificial aging of a tree is done in several ways:

1. - lacquer and silver. A layer of varnish is applied to the prepared surface. After 30 minutes, it is dried with a hair dryer, as a result of which cracks appear. They are rubbed with silver paint, allowed to dry completely and the resulting effect is varnished.
2. - PVA glue. With it, create an antique design. A thick layer of glue on a previously cleaned canvas is not allowed to dry completely. A layer of acrylic paint is applied over it and then dried with a building hair dryer.
3. - gelatin or egg white is another way to age the paint on the tree. The prepared composition is applied to the painted surface with a wide brush - pre-soaked gelatin or protein. Allow to dry naturally and varnish.
4. - vinegar 9%. They moisten a fresh painted surface in a horizontal position. Cracks appear immediately.

It is important not to overdo it - the doors should be aged, and not put into disrepair.

• Mechanical structuring or brushing. The bottom line is to remove the soft fibers of the wood and expose the structure of the tree. For work, a special milling cutter with several nozzles is used - a wire brush for structure, a soft one - for cleaning and emery skins for polishing.

The door laid on a horizontal surface is cleaned by a chemical or hot method, then the machine is used. You can achieve the effect manually, but it will take more time. First they work with a rough nozzle, then they clean the chips and, finally, they polish. During each stage, the canvas is applied various formulations- stain, ink, shoe polish, so that the further transformation of the old wood goes on continuously. The final step will be varnishing.

• Chemical brushing. Suitable as a wood aging effect that does not require the purchase of a special machine. For work, caustic alkalis, acids, ammonia are used. The process takes place away from living quarters in well-ventilated areas and with the use of personal protection- gloves, goggles, respirator. It consists of the following:

1. - The canvas is cleaned and sanded.
2. - wetted with a large amount of caustic components.
3. - after softening the soft layers, processed with hard wire brushes and polishing.

Using the above methods, it is not difficult to artificially age a tree. In addition to the interior, wooden fragments of furniture - legs, armrests - are decorated in the same way.

Features of the wood aging process

Various methods of aging the door surface at home require compliance with the steps and nuances. For example:

• Cleaning cloths. Occurs with the use of a building hair dryer or solvents. A spatula is convenient to clean off peeling paint. It is important to remove all visible areas, otherwise they will not get the desired effect. In addition, chemical solutions must be suitable for future staining or varnishing - incompatibility will lead to the formation of bubbles and "husks".
• The chemical method of wood aging - brushing with caustic solutions, staining, occurs only with soft woods. Pine, spruce, suitable - oak and larch are only subject to mechanical processing.
• The mechanical method is associated with the formation of chips and fine wood dust, so the canvas is periodically moistened with water and debris is swept from the surface with a soft brush. Not with hands - to avoid splinters.
• Painting - craquelure, do-it-yourself wood aging with varnish, the dry brush method - should go with thorough mixing of the compositions so that air bubbles do not form on the surface. They, bursting, form ugly pits, and the artificial origin of the canvas becomes clear.

By itself natural wood beautiful and new canvases are unlikely to need decoration by the methods described. Work should only be carried out on used interior doors to give them a second life and save on buying a new set.