Docking boards. How to glue boards into a furniture board with your own hands. Minimum spacing between nails

In addition to processing solid pieces of wood, it is often necessary to connect wooden parts into knots and structures. Connections of elements of wooden structures are called landings. Connections in structures wooden parts are defined by five types of landings: tense, tight, sliding, loose and very loose fit.

Knots - these are parts of structures at the junction of parts. Connections of wooden structures are divided into types: end, side, corner T-shaped, cross-shaped, corner L-shaped and box corner connections.

Joiner connections have more than 200 options. Only connections used in practice by joiners and carpenters are considered here.

End connection (building) - the connection of parts along the length, when one element is a continuation of another. Such joints are smooth, jagged with spikes. Additionally, they are fixed with glue, screws, overlays. Horizontal end connections withstand compressive, tensile and bending loads (fig. 1 - 5). Lumber is increased in length, forming vertical and horizontal jagged joints (wedge lock) at the ends (Fig. 6). Such joints do not need to be under pressure during the entire bonding process, since significant frictional forces act here. Gear joints of sawn timber, made by milling, meet the first class of accuracy.

Joints of wooden structures must be made carefully, in accordance with the three accuracy classes. The first class is intended for high quality measuring tools, the second class is for furniture production, and the third is for building parts, agricultural implements and containers. The lateral connection of several boards or battens with an edge is called rallying (Fig. 7). Such connections are used in the construction of floors, gates, carpentry doors, etc. Plank, rack panels are additionally reinforced with crossbars and tips. When sheathing ceilings, walls, the upper boards overlap the lower ones by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width. The outer walls are sheathed with horizontally laid overlapping boards (Fig. 7, g). The upper board overlaps the lower one by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width, which ensures the removal of atmospheric precipitation. The connection of the end of the part with the middle part of the other forms a T-shaped connection of the parts. Such connections have big number options, two of which are shown in Fig. 8. These connections (knitting) are used when pairing the log of ceilings and partitions with the harness of the house. The connection of parts at a right or oblique angle is called a cruciform connection. Such a connection has one or two grooves (Fig. 3.9). Cross-shaped connections are used in the construction of roofs and trusses.

Rice. 1. End connections of the bars, resisting compression: a - with a straight overlay in half a tree; b - with an oblique overlay (on the "mustache"); c - with a straight half-wood overlay with a joint in an obtuse angle; g - with an oblique overlay with a joint into a spike.

Rice. 2. End connections of the bars (extension), resisting stretching: a - in a straight overhead lock; b - in an oblique laid on lock; c - with a straight overlay half a tree with a joint in an oblique spike (in a dovetail).

Rice. 3. End connections of beams that resist bending: a - with a straight half-wood overlay with an oblique joint; b - with a straight half-wood overlay with a stepped joint; in - in an oblique laid on lock with wedges and with a joint in a thorn.

Rice. 4. Jointing with a notch reinforced with wedges and bolts.

Rice. 5. End connections of the bars, working in compression: a - end-to-end with a hidden hollowed-out spike; b - end-to-end with a hidden plug-in spike; c - with a straight overlay half a tree (the connection can be reinforced with bolts); mr. straight half-wood overlay with wire fastening; e - with a straight overlay half a tree with fastening with metal clips (clamps); e - with an oblique overlay (on the "mustache") with fastening with metal clips; g - with an oblique overlay and fastening with bolts; h - marking the oblique lining; and - end-to-end with a secret tetrahedral spike.

Rice. Fig. 6. End extensions of the milling scheme for end gluing of workpieces: a - vertical (along the width of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; b - horizontal (through the thickness of the part), gear (wedge-shaped) connection; c - gear joint milling; g - sawing out a gear connection; e - milling of a gear connection; e - end connection and gluing.

Rice. 7. Rallying boards: a - for a smooth fugue; b - on the plug-in rail; in - in a quarter; d, e, e - in the groove and crest (with various forms groove and ridge); g - overlap; h - with a tip in the groove; and - with a tip in a quarter; to - with overlap.

Rice. 8. T-shaped joints of bars: a - with a hidden oblique spike (in a paw or in a dovetail); b - with a straight stepped overlay.

Rice. 9. Cross connections of bars: a - with a straight overlay half a tree; b - with a direct overlay of incomplete overlap; c - with landing in one nest

The connections of two parts with ends at a right angle are called angular. They have through and non-through spikes, open and in the dark, half-dark overlay, half-tree, etc. (Fig. 10). Corner joints (knitting) are used in window irregular blocks, in greenhouse frame joints, etc. The stud joint in the dark has a stud length of at least half the width of the connected part, and the groove depth is 2–3 mm more than the stud length. This is necessary so that the parts to be joined are easily mated with each other, and after gluing, there is room for excess glue in the spike socket. For door frames, an angular tenon connection is used in the dark, and to increase the size of the connected surface, in a semi-darkness. A double or triple tenon increases the strength of the gusset. However, the strength of the connection is determined by the quality of its implementation. AT furniture production a variety of corner box connections are widely used (Fig. 11). Of these, the simplest is an open end-to-end spike connection. Before making such a connection, spikes are marked with an awl at one end of the board according to the drawing. By marking the side parts of the spike with a fine-toothed file, a cut is made. Every second cut of the spike is hollowed out with a chisel. For the accuracy of the connection, they first saw through and gouge out the sockets for the spikes in one piece. It is applied to the end of another part and crushed. Then they saw through, gouge and connect the parts, cleaning the connection with a planer, as shown in fig. eleven.

When connecting the parts to the "mustache" (at an angle of 45 °), the angular knitting is fixed with steel inserts, as shown in fig. 12. At the same time, make sure that one half of the insert or clamp is included in one part, and the other half is in the other. A wedge-shaped steel plate or ring is placed in the milled grooves of the parts to be joined.

The corners of frames and boxes are connected with a direct open through spike connection (Fig. 3.13, a, b, c). With increased quality requirements (the spikes are not visible from the outside), the corner knitting is performed by an oblique blind connection, a groove and a ridge, or an oblique connection to the rail, as shown in fig. 13d, e, f, g and in fig. fourteen.

A box structure with horizontal or vertical transverse elements (shelves, partitions) is connected using corner T-shaped joints shown in fig. fifteen.

In the connection of the elements of the upper belt wooden trusses corner cuts are used with the lower one. When pairing the truss elements at an angle of 45 ° or less, one notch is made in the lower element (puff) (Fig. 16, a), at an angle of more than 45 ° - two notches (Fig. 16.6). In both cases, the end cut (cut) is perpendicular to the direction of the acting forces.

Additionally, the nodes are fixed with a bolt with a washer and a nut, less often with brackets. The log walls of the house (log house) from horizontally laid logs in the corners are connected with a cut “in the paw”. It can be simple or with an additional spike (shank with a pit). The marking of the cut is performed as follows: the end of the log is hewn into a square, to the length of the side of the square (along the log), so that after processing a cube is obtained. The sides of the cube are divided into 8 equal parts. Then, on one side, the 4/8 part is removed from the bottom and top, and the remaining sides are performed, as shown in Fig. 17. Templates are used to speed up the marking and the accuracy of making cuts.

Rice. 10. Corner end connections of blanks at a right angle: a - with a single opening through a spike; b - with a single through hidden spike (in the dark); in-with a single deaf (non-through) thorn in the dark; g - with a single through semi-secret spike (in semi-darkness); d - with a single deaf spike in semi-darkness; e - with a triple open through spike; g - in a straight overlay half a tree; h - in a through dovetail; and - in the eyes with trimming.

Rice. 11. Box corner joints with straight through spikes: a - sawing tenon grooves; b - marking the spikes with an awl; in - connection of a thorn with a groove; g - processing by a planer of a corner joint.

Rice. 12. Corner end connections at a right angle, reinforced with metal inserts - buttons: a - 8-shaped insert; b- wedge-shaped plate; in rings.

Rice. 13. Box corner joints at a right angle: a - straight open through spikes; b - oblique open through spikes; in - open through dovetail spikes; g - groove on the plug-in rail end-to-end; d - in the groove and crest; e - on plug-in spikes; g - on spikes in a dovetail in semi-darkness.

Rice. 14. Oblique (on the "mustache") box connections at a right angle: a - oblique spikes in the dark; b - oblique connection on a plug-in rail; in - oblique connection on spikes in the dark; g - an oblique connection, reinforced with a trihedral rail on glue.

Rice. 15. Direct and oblique connections of blanks: a - on a double connection in an oblique groove and ridge; b - on a straight groove and comb; in - on a trihedral groove and a crest; g - on a straight groove and a comb in the dark; d - on straight through spikes; e - on round plug-in spikes in the dark; g - on a spike in a dovetail; h - on the groove and the crest, reinforced with nails.

Rice. 16. Nodes in farm elements.

Rice. 17. Conjugation of the logs of the walls of the log house: a - a simple paw; b - a paw with a wind spike; c - paw markings; 1 - wind spike (pit)

A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a properly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts can be divided into three categories according to the field of application (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for splicing/splicing.

Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frame are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased size in width / length.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
• Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
  After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil.
• Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.

All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so as to indicate, for example, that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements note that there may be "right" and "left" parts.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.

Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside, or with a wooden block fixed on the inside.

Nail / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and use adhesive to secure the assembly. Dowel connections can be used as frame connections (furniture), drawer connections (cabinets) or for splicing (panels).

Assembling the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.

Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.

3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.

With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.

6. An electric drill with a twist drill or hand drill with a spatula drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the connection.

Nagels

The pin should have a longitudinal groove (now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.

Use of pins for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a block of wood, drill holes in it, fix the template to the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a dowel connection

The metal jig for pin connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for pins. AT box connections the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for nail joints

1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.

The pin connection is neat and strong.

Flange / mortise connections

A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Types of mortise / mortise connections

The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, corner cut(corner connection) in a quarter and a corner cut in the dark / semi-dark. The corner cut into the rebate and the corner cut into the rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Making a cut

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.

Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.

Use a chisel to remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.

6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:

• gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through the corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

Tongue and groove connections

This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.

3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.

Tips:

• Tongue and groove type joints can be easily made with a router and an appropriate guide, either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. See p. 35.
• If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Half tree connections

Half-timber joints refer to frame joints, which are used to connect parts in planes or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.

Types of joins in half-tree

There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.

Making a half-tree gusset

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.

6. Repeat the process on the second piece.

7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner joints on the mustache

Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.

Types of corner connections on the mustache

To perform a bevel of the ends in a corner joint, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.

4. When hand cutting use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.

Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check for squareness.

Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.

8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. To strengthen the corner connection, the mustache can be glued inside the corner wooden block if it is not visible. If important appearance, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.

Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting

Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cutting connection

Connection with cutting (with cutting, with fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.

1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.

Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.

2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with an edge to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window frame or where a table leg meets a crossbar).

Eyelet Types

The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making an eyelet connection

1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check for squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.

Spike-to-socket connection

Spike-to-socket connections, or just spike connections, are used when two parts are connected at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the socket.

Standard spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.

2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously drawn marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach an edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.

5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the connection must be perpendicular and free of play.

10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same bias.

11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check for squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Training

Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to bundle materials with different ways sawing into one panel.
• Never join boards of different types of wood unless they are properly dried. They will shrink and crack.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth fugue

1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.

2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other payment methods

Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in a groove and a comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large areas dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it shrinks when setting.

contact adhesive

Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well-ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass ( organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

hot glue

Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.

Clips for fixation

Clamps are various designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are required. Be sure to place a spacer between the clamp and the product. wood waste to avoid denting from applied pressure.

Gluing and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.

Frame Assembly

Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.

Making tight joints from wood

Professional layout with precision tools

Tight joints of wood products start with neat and precise markings. This is especially important if you are making connections by hand and marking lines serve as guides for tools. The accuracy of machining depends on the accurate setting of stops, stops, overhang and inclination of saw blades and cutters. The steps below will help you achieve great results. This does not require unique equipment, but should choose tools that guarantee accuracy and efficiency. Also, get in the habit of observing the following rules when measuring and marking.

• Use precise tools. For example, try, if possible, to use an accurate steel ruler instead of a tape measure with a flexible tape in most cases. good tools are more expensive, but they will last you a lifetime.
• Consistency is the key to success. Throughout the entire project, use the same measuring instruments to avoid small inaccuracies affecting the quality of connections. For example, the 300 mm marks on the two rulers may not match.
• The main thing is the result, not the measurements. In most cases, measurements should be avoided when you can use an already finished part with connection elements to mark an adjacent part. For example, having made spikes on the front wall of the box, use them to mark the “dovetails” on the blanks of the side walls.
• Use the right markup techniques and the right tools. With good marking and measuring tools, it is easier to achieve the required accuracy.

It is not always possible to accurately align the end of the ruler with the end of the workpiece, so in such a situation it is better, as they say, to sacrifice zero. Align the next ordinal division with the end and mark the size in accordance with it.

To draw a thin line parallel to the edge of the workpiece, use a thickness gauge. Shows the outline of the nest on the rack after determining the position of the end of the crossbar

The sharp knife leaves the thinnest line, providing high accuracy of a marking. In some cases, the recessed line also becomes the starting position for the chisel.

Fine-tuning of machines for precise machining of parts

Machine tools and power tools will provide excellent results only if they are correct setting and adjustments. This page shows the main features of setting up three machines that are essential for most workshops: a saw and planer, as well as milling table. Having prepared them for work, remember the following rules.

• First of all, make blanks of the same thickness. Start any project by cutting all pieces to the same thickness. Any differences in thickness make it difficult to obtain accurate joints and necessitate additional adjustments in grinding and sanding.
• Reasonable approach. Long boards are inconvenient to process, so it is better to immediately cut them into blanks with a small allowance, which are easier to handle, achieving the necessary accuracy.
• Double check the dimensions. The actual thickness of slabs and sheet materials, as a rule, differs from the nominal, therefore, a caliper should be used to measure them. Only after that, cut the grooves, tongues and folds of the appropriate width.

Before cutting anything, check that the blade is parallel to the slots in the table, adjust the cross (corner) stop to 90°, and then set longitudinal stop parallel to the disk. When ripping, use a pressure comb to hold the workpiece firmly against the rip fence.

Align the rear table with the highest point of the cutting edge path of the knives as shown in the figure on the right. Then, using a checked square, make sure that the rip fence is set exactly at right angles to the back table. For best results, always press the workpiece against the fence when planing. Slowly feed the board onto the rotating cutterhead. When the front end of the board passes over the knives, move the downforce forward so that the board is pressed against the back table. For best results, adjust the rear table and rip fence.

Plan to do the most milling work over multiple passes, setting the fence to the final height or width for the last pass. Fix the position of the router after each change in the overhang of the cutter. When selecting grooves, tongues, folds and other elements of connections, use clamps similar to the clamping comb shown here. It is easy to do it yourself, it does not require a lot of material.

The final fit guarantees success

No matter how many connections you want to make on the machine, after each change in settings, always make test passes and connection samples using offcuts. Adjustment should be continued until a tight assembly of the test joint is achieved, and only then proceed to processing the details of the project. But despite all your efforts, sometimes you can find imperfections in the connections. Chips on the saw table or subtle warping of a previously planed workpiece can ruin the job and make assembly impossible. If the piece is too thick or too wide, resist the temptation to adjust the size with the help of lathes. Precise fitting is best left to hand tools.

• Little zenzubel. With its help, it is possible to quickly remove a layer with a thickness of 0.5 mm or more from a wide spike or comb. The low angle zener is especially effective when working across the fibers. The cutting edge protruding from the side allows processing inner corner close to the shoulder of the spike.
• Rasp or file. A flat rasp with a coarse cut quickly removes material, but leaves a rougher surface than a planer. A flat file is slower, but it works well for smoothing the surface.
• Sandpaper. If you need to remove very little material from a spike or other wide surface, glue a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to a suitable piece of board or cork block. Use self-adhesive sandpaper, or stick with regular sandpaper using spray adhesive or double-sided tape. This method allows you to process only one plane without affecting the adjacent ones, as happens if you just wrap the bar with sandpaper.
• Chisel. Blades of various widths will allow you to remove material from any hard-to-reach places. When scraping a flat surface, hold the chisel with the bevel up, pressing its flat front edge against the wood.

When using a rasp, chisel, or any other tool to remove material, take your time and regularly check the result by joining the parts.

Plan your build sequence carefully

You have carefully cut out all the details, achieved tightness in all joints and are now ready to start assembling. But before you open the bottle of glue, be sure to do a trial dry assembly (without glue). When assembling the product, determine in what order it is better to connect the parts, how many clamps are required to tightly compress all the joints, and how best to place the clamps so that there are no distortions.

Assembling large and complex projects is best broken down into several simple steps, rather than fussing around trying to glue all the pieces together in one go. For example, when making a cabinet with paneled sides, first assemble the frames with panels, and then proceed with the main assembly. This approach gives you more time to check all connections and requires fewer clamps. Another way to buy time is to use glue with an extended setting time. For example, the usual yellow Titebond glue makes the entire assembly in 15 minutes, and variety Titebond Extend allows you to align the gluing within 25 minutes.

When installing clamps, make sure that their pressure is in the middle of the connection. An incorrectly installed clamp can deform the parts so that a gap forms between them. Sometimes, despite your best efforts, the connections don't come out neat. An accidentally slipped tool, inattention or unnoticed filings near the stop lead to the fact that the connection is loose or a noticeable gap appears in it.

Assemble the locker in stages, first gluing the small side paneled frames. Then you can pay more attention to each connection. Then proceed to assemble the body

How can a seemingly ruined job be salvaged?

The gap can be covered with a mixture of fast-setting epoxy adhesive with sanding dust from the same wood (the mixture should have the consistency of a thick paste). It is better to use epoxy glue instead of PVA, since the putty is inevitably smeared on the surfaces adjacent to the joint and the epoxy glue hardens without being absorbed into the wood. Excess of such a composition is easy to remove by grinding, so that there are no problems when applying the finish. Use this filling method when the appearance of the joint is more important than its strength.

If, during trial assembly, the spike dangles in the socket, such a connection will not be strong. Filling gaps with glue won't do any good, so don't be lazy to reinforce a piece that's too thin with wood. Cut out two overlays to make the spike a little thicker than required, and glue them on both sides. After drying, re-adjust the spike to the size of the nest.

Turn a disadvantage into a virtue

Sometimes it is better not to hide the traces of repair, but to make them visible. In a too narrow ash thorn, two cuts were made and thin cherry wedges were inserted into them, which tightly pressed the narrow cheeks of the thorn to the edges of the socket. In other cases, such as countersunk joints, small chamfers or roundings along the ribs of the shoulders will make the loose seam less noticeable.

Replace Part

This can happen to any of us. Some mistakes do not make sense to fix for two reasons: (1) if no matter your skill and effort, an unsightly defect remains noticeable or (2) if it is faster and easier to make a new part to replace the damaged one.

The rafter system is the most complex and one of the most critical elements of the house; the comfort and operating time of the building largely depend on the correctness of its construction. Calculation and design truss system should only be done by experienced builders or engineers with special training.

Designing a wooden truss system is much more difficult than any metal constructions. Why? In nature, there are no two boards with exactly the same strength indicators, this parameter is influenced by a lot of factors.

The metal has the same properties, which depend only on the steel grade. The calculations will be accurate, the error is minimal. With a tree, everything is much more complicated. In order to minimize the risks of destruction of the system, it is necessary to give a large margin of safety. Most decisions are made directly by the builders on site after assessing the condition of the lumber and taking into account the design features. Practical experience is very important.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Why you need to splice rafters

There are several reasons why splicing rafters is required.

1. Roof length exceeds standard lumber length. The standard length of the boards does not exceed six meters. If the ramp has big sizes, then the boards will have to be lengthened.
2. During construction, there are many good boards 3–4 m long. To lower the estimated cost of the building and reduce the amount of non-productive waste, these pieces can be used for the manufacture of rafters, having previously spliced ​​them.

Important. It must be remembered that the strength of spliced ​​rafters is always lower than that of whole ones. It is necessary to try to ensure that the splicing point is located as close as possible to the vertical stops.

Splicing methods

There are several ways to splice, there is definitely no better or worse. Masters make decisions based on their skills and the specific location of the joint.

Table. Methods for splicing rafters.

splicing method	Brief description of technology
	It is used on boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm. Quite a complex method, requires practical experience in carpentry. In terms of strength, the connection is the weakest of all existing ones. Advantage - saving lumber. Practically at construction sites it is used very rarely.
	Length rafter legs increases with the overlay. The lining can be wooden or metal. If the length of the two segments of the boards is insufficient in terms of the parameters of the truss system, then this method allows them to be increased. The butt joint has the highest bending strength and is widely used during the construction of various structures.
	Overlap. Two boards are fixed with an overlap. The simplest method, in terms of strength, occupies a middle position. The disadvantage is that the total length of the two boards must be greater than the design length of the rafter leg.

In this article, we will look at two of the simplest and most reliable splicing methods: butt and overlap. It makes no sense to touch the oblique cut, it is almost never used due to a large number shortcomings.

Requirements of building codes and rules for splicing rafters

Inept splicing of rafters along the length can not only dramatically reduce their resistance to bending loads, but also cause complete destruction of the structure. The consequences of this situation are very sad. Building regulations provide for certain patterns during the selection of fastener sizes, places for its installation and the length of the overlays. The data are taken taking into account many years of practical experience.

Spliced ​​rafters will be much stronger if metal studs rather than nails are used to connect them. The instruction will help to make an independent calculation of the connection. The advantage of the method is its versatility, it can be used to solve problems not only with lengthening the rafters, but also with building up other roof elements. Specialized companies performed rough calculations and collected data in a table, but it only indicates the minimum acceptable parameters.

1. Stud diameter and length. In all cases, the diameter of the studs must be ≥ 8 mm. Thinner ones do not have sufficient strength, it is not recommended to use them. Why? In metal joints, the diameter of the studs is calculated for tensile forces. During contraction metal surfaces pressed against each other so strongly that they are held by friction. AT wooden structures the pin is bending. Separate boards cannot be pulled together with great effort, the washers fall into the board. In addition, during changes in relative humidity, the boards change thickness, due to this, the tightening force is reduced. Studs working in bending must be large. The specific diameter of the stud must be determined by the formula dw = 0.25×S, where S is the thickness of the board. For example, for a board with a thickness of 40 mm, the diameter of the stud should be 10 mm. Although this is all rather relative, you need to keep in mind the specific loads, and they depend on many factors.

   

2. Board overlap length. This parameter should always be four times the width of the boards. If the width of the rafters is 30 cm, then the length of the overlap cannot be less than 1.2 m. We have already mentioned that the specific decision is made by the master, taking into account the condition of the lumber, the angle of the rafters, the distance between them, the weight roofing materials and climatic zone of the building location. All these parameters have a great influence on the stability of the truss system.

   

3. Distance between stud holes. Fasteners are recommended to be fixed at a distance of at least seven diameters of the studs, from the edge of the board the distance should be at least three diameters. These are the minimum figures, in practice it is recommended to increase them. But it all depends on the width of the board. It is impossible to reduce the distance between the rows of studs too much by increasing the distance from the edge.

   

   

4. Number of tie rods. There are quite complex formulas, but in practice they are not used. Masters install two rows of studs, taking into account the distance between them, the holes are staggered.

The toughest joiners and carpenters are said to be able to build a house without a single nail. Japanese artisans, even amateurs, are just one of those.

A few years ago, a young automotive industry worker, enthusiastic, fell into the hands of a book describing traditional Japanese woodworking techniques. He was very fascinated by the descriptions of the connections of parts without the use of nails, screws and glue. He wanted to learn how to do the same. But there were no schemes for making fasteners in the book. Then the guy decided to draw them himself.

He used the free service Fusion-360 to model and animate the parts. The Japanese translated the resulting result into gifs and posted it on a Twitter account called The Joinery. In almost a year, the young carpenter visualized 85 various ways detachable connections.

The variety of fasteners is really amazing. With their help, you can make basically anything - a stool, a sofa, a table, and so on. The main thing is to have straight arms and a good, preferably an electric tool.

But even if manual labor you are not inspired at all, you will probably enjoy watching gifs. The way the details interlock with each other is mesmerizing.