Make a barrel out of wood. Do-it-yourself barrel - step by step manufacturing. The last step is wood sanding.
In the household, barrels and tubs are in great demand. They keep lard, hams in brine, ferment cabbage, and soak apples. What can be compared, for example, with a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And honey is perfectly stored in a linden barrel, Apple juice, you can cook kvass in it.
Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree even today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. Just do not find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur master is quite capable of coping with it. We will tell you more about the manufacture of these containers needed in the economy.
First of all, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Linden, aspen, and plane trees are needed here. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or urinating, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve for more than a decade. For other needs, you can use blackberry, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.
This table will help you determine the size.
| External dimensions | Width and Depth morning groove |
Distance from morning groove to the end |
|||
| Drum capacity (l) | Height | Bundle Diameter | in my head | ||
| 15 | 345 | 295 | 262 | 3*3 | 20 |
| 25 | 420 | 340 | 300 | 3*3 | 20 |
| 50 | 535 | 420 | 370 | 3*3 | 25 |
| 100 | 670 | 515 | 450 | 3*3 | 25 |
| 120 | 770 | 525 | 460 | 3*3 | 25 |
Note that here are the dimensions of the barrels, in order to choose the size for the tub, the height and diameter of the head remains the same. The diameter in the bunch of the barrel (diameter in the center) for the tub goes into the diameter of the bottom.
When the size is selected, you need to proceed to the blanks of the riveting, the main component of the barrel.
I will give the dimensions of the rivets
| Capacity | Riveting width | Riveting thickness | bottom thickness | Bottom width |
| 15 | 40-90 | 14 | 16 | 50 or more |
| 25 | 40-90 | 14 | 16 | 50 or more |
| 50 | 40-90 | 17 | 19 | 50 or more |
| 100 | 40-100 | 18 | 19 | 50 or more |
| 120 | 40-100 | 18 | 19 | 50 or more |
There is another way to determine the size. The ratio of the diameter of the height of the tub or barrel should be in proportion, for example, 350:490 mm (Fig. 1-6). Increasing or decreasing the height, change the diameter of the container. The number of staves for a barrel or tub is calculated according to the formula 2 * Pi * R / W, where R is the radius of the tub in the lower section (for a barrel - in the middle); "Pi" is a constant value equal to 3.14; W - the width of the stave along the bottom of the tub (for a barrel - in the middle).
riveting
Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees goes to riveting, it is called “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering will choose blanks from ordinary firewood, and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make riveting from raw wood. First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again pricked into two parts, and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock, in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You just need to try to split went radially - this will save the riveting in the future from cracking.
The chopped blanks are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. You can use a dryer to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a planer.
Rivet marking.
They take a plank with a width of 30 to 100 mm, draw a line along the outside, dividing the riveting in half in width (for a barrel - and in length). For the taper of the tub (barrel), it is necessary to withstand the taper of the riveting. It should be around 8°. This means that if the width of the stave along the bottom of the tub (for a barrel - in the middle) is 100 mm, at the top it should be 8 mm narrower, i.e. 92 mm. And for the barrel at the top and bottom - 92 mm. Fix the set width of the riveting with dots and connect 4 dots with lines - for the tub and 6 dots - for the barrel. These are the riveting planing guidelines that determine the taper. The plane of the segment of the radius on the template, its direction towards the center, together with the already defined slope of the future skeleton of the barrel or tub, is the main requirement for the fit of the riveting to one another during the sharpening. Therefore, it is necessary to apply the template to the riveting being processed more often, checking the correct planing.
Riveting point.
They plan the riveting with a planer, adjusting each in thickness, and immediately determine which side will be the outer one. To do this, half-fill the left and right side rivets in length. With a sherhebel with an oval base and a piece of iron, they plan the inner side cleanly according to the template (Fig. 5) and draw a line with a pencil dividing the riveting in half along the length. Then, with a hacksaw, the riveting is trimmed along the length and the dividing line is drawn to the ends. A semi-joiner (joiner) cleans the outer and sides of the riveting, the correct planing is checked with a template. It is made along the radius of the assembly hoop for the tub, and for the barrel - along the radius of the umbilical hoop, made in advance. For a barrel with two bottoms, two pairs of hoops are prepared - 2 stubborn and 2 umbilical. The umbilical hoop should pass freely through the stubborn one.
Especially carefully check the correctness of the sharpening of the sides of the riveting for the barrel. The template should fit snugly against the side and outer sides of the riveting, especially at the center line dividing the riveting in half along the length. When planing the sides, deviations from the line drawn to the end and dividing the riveting in half should not be allowed.
HOOPS
Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for hoops.
Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop was stretched, we add to this size the double width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. One inner edge of the hoop must be flared with blows of the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand.
Assembly of the skeleton
The assembly hoop is made in the middle between the top and bottom of the tub and a slightly smaller diameter along the middle line for the barrel. On clean wooden base we put the assembly hoop vertically and put 5-6 rivets inside it with the outer side to the hoop. On the left, we clamp one of the rivets and the hoop with a clamp. Slightly lift the hoop and spread out the rest of the rivets. Let's get a hoop. The snug fit of the rivets along the entire length (for tubs) and up to the midline (for barrels) is the result of careful sharpening and fitting. In the same way, we assemble the frame for the barrel, but here we remove the assembly hoop after fitting the umbilical hoop, then we fill the stubborn hoop. If it is stuffed tightly, then we planed correctly and correctly selected the last riveting in width.
The skeleton for the barrel from the middle or a little higher fan-shaped diverges to its bottom. To tighten the loose end of the skeleton, apply various ways and fixtures. The end of a steel stranded cable with a diameter of 6-8 mm is fixed to a fixed support. The second end is thrown onto a hot, steamed loose skeleton, put on a ledge of a pillar made of earth, dug in for this purpose, or a raised part of a log and using the “stranglehold” method, using a strong stake inserted into a loop at the end of the cable, “twist” the skeleton and put it on umbilical, and then stubborn hoops.
After assembly, the skeleton is checked for horizontality and verticality, and all hoops are finally upset. On the inside of the core (barrels or tubs), the sag is cleaned, and at the ends of the rivets they are cut off by 1/3 of the thickness (Fig. 6) and by 2-3 mm from the outside. The outer and inner sides of the skeleton are finally cleaned, the upper and lower ends are half-filled.
Installation of donets in the skeleton
To do this, several operations are performed.
1. Cutting the morning groove in the core. Morning cut the morning groove. The width of the teeth of the steel nail file is 4-5 mm. Therefore, the width of the cut morning groove should be 4-5 mm. The nail file protrudes 4-5 mm from the half-fallen bar of the morning time. Therefore, the depth of the groove of the chime cannot be different. The thickness of the chime bar is a limiter for the distance of the chime cutting from the top of the core to the bottom of the plank on which the bar is fixed, i.e. 40-50 mm. Be sure to chamfer 2-3 mm or a little more on both sides of the morning groove to prevent chipping of the core riveting when inserting bottoms and compressing them with hoops.
2. Assembly of bottom shields. They are assembled on wooden or metal (preferably stainless) studs-nails from 4-6 boards. The extreme ones are called shoals, the middle ones are called grouse. Planks are taken on the jambs, which is wider. We don't yet know the diameter of the circle from the chime. We take a compass (Fig. 4) and spread its legs approximately by the radius of the intended circle along the chime, insert the tip of the compass leg into the chime, divide the circle into 6 parts. Thus, we will determine the radius of the circle by chimes for the bottom. We transfer the resulting radius to the bottom shield and draw a circle.
3. Sawing out the bottoms. With a bow saw or a circular saw, we cut out the required bottom. In this case, the cut should be along the inner side of the line drawn by the circle when the saw teeth are set 2-2.5 mm. This will reduce the diameter of the circle by 0.14 constant "Pi".
4. Donets processing. We put the bottom circle on the workbench, sharpen it cleanly on both sides, draw a line 3-4 mm thick at the end with a pencil in the middle. With a radius 25-30 mm smaller than the bottom, draw a circle on its two sides. These are the borders of chamfering. With a chisel or planer, we will chamfer and make sure that the mortise groove and chamfered bottom fit well. The line at the end of the bottom is left untouched.
5. Installation of Donets. This is the final operation for the manufacture of a barrel or tub. We turn the skeleton of the tub with the wide part up and slightly knock down the lower hoop. We knock down the stubborn at the barrel, and shift the umbilical hoop so that the bottom enters the morning groove. To keep the bottom in a horizontal position when installed in chimes, a nylon thread will help to cross-tie the bottom. When the bottom is set in chimes, the thread is pulled out, the hoops are put in place. Before installing the second bottom into the skeleton of the keg, two tongue holes are drilled in it opposite each other and 4-5 cm from the inside of the skeleton with a diameter of 20-25 mm, into which tongues are placed so that debris does not get into the keg. After installing the second bottom, the hoops are finally stuffed and make sure that the bottoms are crimped with rivets in the chimes, and the rivets between themselves would not have gaps. If the rivets were planed correctly and the slope was maintained according to the pattern, the bottom was carefully sawn out, the product will be of high quality.
Take note.
1. Before assembling the frames for a barrel or tub, the finished riveting must be dried to 17-20% moisture.
2. Soak oak, spruce, pine, aspen barrels and tubs for at least 10 days, changing the water after 2-3 days. At the same time, jambs and planks are soaked, which press the fermented products.
3. To reduce the formation of mold on the rivets of the tub, when stored in the cellar, it is wiped with a swab dipped in calcined vegetable oil. Jambs, planks and pressure stone are washed once a week with hot water.
HOW LONG DOES A BARREL SERVE
First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember what to paint jellied containers oil paint should not be: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the decay of wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. AT decorative purposes a barrel, a flower tub can be treated with mordants.
The brown color of the oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulphate or an infusion for 5-6 days of iron filings in vinegar.
A decoction of the rhizomes of the fragrant woodruff (Asperula odo-rata) turns linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction onion peel, brown - a decoction of fruit walnut. These dyes are brighter than chemical ones and more stable.
It must be remembered that wood is better preserved with a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry products must always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of the rot by cutting the chimes.
But no matter how long a barrel made by one's own hands serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient cooper's craft.
© finished barrels in the photo
How to do wooden barrel with their own hands, drawings and detailed description for manufacturing.
The figure shows a barrel in a section:
1.
Lid.
2.
Small hoop.
3.
Boards (riveting).
4.
Big hoop.
5.
Bottom.
The manufacturing process of the product in question can be divided into several stages.
MATERIAL SELECTION
The most common material is oak. It is good to withstand alcohol in oak barrels and prepare pickles for the winter. You can also use cherry, mulberry, linden, aspen or ash.
DESIGN CALCULATION
Any design is determined by the following dimensions:
Height (H) - 600 (mm)
small diameter (d) - 420 (mm)
large diameter (D) - 465 (mm)
number of staves (n) - 20
the angle of inclination of the side faces to the center of a regular polyhedron (φ) - 360/20/2 = 9°
By geometric constructions, we obtain the dimensions of the riveting.
Reference:
To greatly facilitate assembly, it is desirable to make the rivets at the top and bottom thicker than in the center by 1/5. If the thickness of the riveting in the center is 10 (mm), then at the edges it will be 10 + 10/5 = 12 (mm).
MATERIAL PREPARATION
The lower part of the trunk sawn into chocks is well suited for blanks. Chocks of the desired length must be split into boards in the direction of the fibers. Send the prepared boards for drying in a ventilated room for a period of two months.
Reference:
In order for the boards to be well blown, it is better to fold them in a checkerboard pattern.
MANUFACTURE OF HOOPS
Hoops can be made from a hot-rolled tool strip 3 x 30 (mm). Ideal if the strip is bent to, but you can also manually. We drill two holes and connect the ends of the hoop with rivets, as shown in the figure.
BOTTOM ASSEMBLY
We will assemble the bottom from boards and planks. In the boards, we mill grooves along the entire length of the end surface. Insert the planks into the grooves, and press the boards against each other.
From the resulting shield, cut out the bottom of the estimated diameter.
We grind the end surface at a slight angle.
How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, the drawings are at hand, all the details are made, you can start assembling the product:
1.
We collect rivets around the perimeter of the small hoop, using small homemade clamps.
2.
After inserting the last stave, move the hoop as far as possible to the center of the barrel length.
3.
Reheat in hot water within 15 ... 20 (min) lower riveting.
4.
Install the prepared structure inside a large hoop, preferably on a flat surface.
5.
We tighten the structure with twine and move the large ring to the center of the barrel.
6.
We continue to tighten the structure with twine, after the rivets are completely pulled together, we put a small hoop on top of them.
7.
The skeleton is assembled and it must be burned from the inside, using any of the proposed methods: gas-burner; blowtorch; small fire.
8.
Align the edges of the barrel.
9.
Loosen the lower metal ring, insert the bottom into the grooves of the rivets, and push the small metal hoop back to its original position.
10.
Do the same for the cover.
11.
Check the product for leaks, if necessary, seal the cracks with barrel grass.
12.
Sand the outer surface of the product and cover it with a thin layer of beeswax.
13.
If the barrel is made of oak, it must be washed with water until the drained liquid becomes clear. This procedure can take up to two weeks.
As you can see, it is quite possible to make a wooden barrel with your own hands.
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The best brands of cognac, wine, liquor, rum, whiskey are aged in wooden containers. In the household, barrels, tubs are also rightfully considered the best place storage for pickles. In terms of sanitary and hygienic characteristics, they are not much inferior to stainless steel containers, but surpass the latter in a number of quality indicators. natural material creates a favorable environment for the aging of products, while giving them original aromatic and taste properties. An oak barrel made can be done by hand, if you carefully read step by step guide for the manufacture of this product.
Professionals high level units, but this does not mean that the work cannot be done. Requirements for the manufacture of the desired container at home are different. It is enough to make a design that can withstand moderate loads during operation. The cooperator must have skills and knowledge in the following areas of activity:
- Joinery. The main operations are performed by the techniques, tools used in this business;
- Basic metalworking skills. They are needed for the manufacture of high-quality, geometrically and technologically correct hoops;
- Basic knowledge of geometry. The shape of the barrel is complex, you need to accurately calculate the dimensions of each part: riveting, bottom, hoop;
- General concepts of wood heat treatment. In cooperage, it is important to choose the correct hot working mode during assembly (if the riveting has a significant bend), and then fire the finished product.
In the classical production of wooden containers, glues and metal fasteners are not used, with the exception of external hoops. All connections are made by precise fitting of parts. Slots, gaps that make the product unsuitable for solving the tasks are not allowed. A well-made barrel, tub after assembly without soaking should have the necessary tightness. In some cases, small leaks are allowed if the wood dries out, which are easily eliminated by moistening and swelling of the natural fiber.
The principle of manufacture and details of cooperage products
The production technology of wooden containers requires precise, step-by-step execution operations, from the selection of raw materials to the decorative finish of the outer side of the product. To make an oak barrel with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of:
- Frame. It is assembled from prepared wooden blanks - rivets:
- Hoops. Made from metal strip. The exact diameter is determined in each case according to the planned dimensions of the barrel body. Wooden hoops are used less often. They are less reliable and more difficult to manufacture:
- Bottoms. Depending on the intended purpose, the container is equipped with one or two bottoms. The detail is made by a set of wooden blanks assembled in a single plane, then a circle cut out according to a template with the necessary tolerance for a snug fit to the barrel body.
It is important to observe precise recommendations professionals at every stage of work. A cooperage product of satisfactory quality cannot be made by violating even one point of technology. The step-by-step production process is as follows:
- The choice of wood for riveting, bottom;
- Drying, testing for suitability, rejection of low-quality blanks;
- Making staves, bottom, hoops;
- barrel assembly;
- Burning;
- final sanding, decorative trim front part (if necessary).
The geometric dimensions of the riveting in each case are original, depending on the height of the barrel, the degree of bending of the workpiece, its width, the bevel angle of the end part for a tight fit with the neighboring element. You should exactly repeat the dimensions indicated in the existing drawings, or, having knowledge of the spatial construction of complex figures, independently determine the necessary values.
How to choose wood
Cooperage products can be made from various types of wood. However, oak barrels are considered the best. The choice is not accidental, because in addition to strength, durability, the material has unique biochemical characteristics to create optimal conditions beverage storage, food products. Natural substances in oak wood fiber have an antiseptic effect, give pickles, alcoholic beverages unique taste and aromatic features.
Experienced coopers choose raw materials when the tree is still in the vine. It is specially cut down and subsequently cut into the necessary blanks. The lower part of the trunk comes into play, on which there should be no branches, visible bumps and bends. Usually it is 4-5 meters from the root, with a plant age of at least 100 years. It is difficult to fulfill these conditions at home if the master is not a native forest dweller. Therefore, the visible qualities of the fiber become the criterion for choosing wood for riveting. The requirements are:
- No knots:
- The inadmissibility of the oblique layer;
- Cracks, natural defects, voids;
- Variety.
A wooden barrel is the best container for storing wine and various pickles, because wood is an environmentally friendly material that preserves the taste and usefulness of products. This indispensable item in the household can be purchased ready-made, but if you have free time and desire, then, using our tips, making a barrel with your own hands will not be difficult.
Masters involved in the manufacture of barrels are called coopers, and the process of creating containers is called cooperage. This is a kind of art that originated in Ancient Greece, but, oddly enough, since then the technology has changed little, and wooden packaging is still popular, especially among winemakers. Today we invite you to get acquainted with the basics and some of the subtleties of this craft.
Choice of wood
The first responsible task is to choose the right type of wood for the manufacture of containers. Consider the main varieties used, as well as their pros and cons.
First on our list is oak. It is rightfully considered the most suitable, so to speak, classical material used in cooperage. Its wood is strong, flexible and saturated with special tannins that act as an antiseptic. It is noteworthy that under the influence of moisture, oak barrels only become stronger over the years, so their service life is quite long. Another feature of oak is a pleasant aroma with hints of vanilla, which it gives to the substances stored in the barrel.
Oak - best material for barrels
Spruce and pine can also be used to make barrels. These are soft woods that are easy to cut and process, but their strength indicators are average. The main disadvantage of such wood is the characteristic resinous smell, due to which it is not often used to create food containers.
Of the conifers, cedar is also popular in cooperage, although it is more widely used in those parts where its plantations are extensive. According to its characteristics, it is similar to pine and spruce, but there is practically no foreign smell from cedar barrels. Containers made of this material are suitable for storing food; it is believed that it is especially good to store dairy products in them.
Another material from which you can make a barrel is linden wood. It belongs to the fibrous varieties of wood and, due to its structure, lends itself well to cutting, chiselling and processing. The material is durable, practically does not dry out and has no smell, so barrels made from it have won recognition as one of the best for transporting and storing honey, caviar, pickles and other delicacies.
A budget but durable option is aspen. This tree is durable, resistant to moisture and has antiseptic properties. Aspen barrels are ideal for storing various pickles. A feature of aspen is a tendency to strong swelling, but in cooperage this is rather an advantage, since it allows you to achieve a very tight closure of the rivets.
Making staves
The next thing to do after you have decided on the type of wood is the manufacture of barrel parts. You should start with rivets. They are tapered at the edges or rectangular boards that can be chipped or sawn. The former are more durable, since the structure of the fibers is not destroyed when splitting a solid wood.
Barrel parameters according to their volume In order not to be mistaken with the number of staves, you must immediately determine the size of the barrel. After that, you will need to make life size riveting pattern and bottom. Then a simple calculation should be carried out. The required amount can be determined using the formula: 2 * Pi * R / W, in which "Pi" is a constant value; R is the radius of the bottom of a barrel with smooth sides or the middle of a container with convex sides; W - riveting width.
Making a barrel with your own hands from chipped staves is a laborious process and requires certain skills. The main task is to split the workpiece into even fragments and at the same time get as little waste as possible.
The split can be carried out in the radial and tangential directions. In the first case, the split plane passes through the core of the deck (this method requires less effort), and in the second it does not touch it. When working with hardwood, the second method is not recommended, as it complicates and slows down the process.
The scheme of splitting the deck into rivets Raw material is most easily processed, it is optimal if the tree for making the barrel is freshly cut. However, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such wood, and as an alternative, you can look for suitable blanks among the firewood that is on sale for furnaces. In urban conditions, sawn poplars can become a material. These trees often lie in the yards for a long time after they have been cut down, waiting for their removal to the landfill. In the absence of other options, you can use the boards. When choosing them, pay attention to the fact that the annual rings go along the plane of the board and are not sawn.
The shape of the rivets depending on the type of barrel Having pricked a sufficient number of rivets, they are left to dry. In the summer, you can lay out the material under a canopy and leave to ventilate, this process will take about 3 months. If there is no possibility or desire to wait, use another method. For artificial drying, paper is glued to the ends of the blanks with carpentry glue and the riveting is placed for a day in the oven of a well-heated Russian stove. After this procedure, the material will be suitable for further processing.
Making a hoop
Another important component of the barrel, which allows you to collect all the rivets into a single whole - hoops. According to the material of manufacture, they can be metal and wood. Iron has more strength, but it also has a drawback - a tendency to rust, which over time significantly worsens appearance products. Therefore, metal hoops are used only if increased strength is needed.
Usually a modern wooden barrel, purchased or made with your own hands, has 4 hoops. Those that are closer to the center are called farts, and the extreme ones are called mornings, if the barrel has a significant volume, there can also be additional cervical ones between them.
Hoops with tie-lock The thickness and width of the hoops are directly related to the volume of the container. If its volume does not exceed 25 liters, then they have a thickness of 1.6 mm and a width of about 3 cm, for a 50-liter width it increases to 3.6 cm, and for a 100-liter to 4-4.5 cm. If the barrel holds 120 liters or more, then the hoops for it should have a thickness of 1.8 mm and a width of 5 cm.
Even if you use wooden rims for the barrel, you will also need the ability to make them out of metal, since the assembly cannot do without the so-called working metal hoops. To assemble a barrel of these hoops, you will need four. In terms of structure and characteristics, they are identical to permanent ones, and are made as follows:
- Strips of the desired size are cut from sheet steel. As cutting tool you can use locksmith or chair scissors.
- Holes are made at both ends of each strip with a punch and fastened with rivets.
- To make the hoop easier to put on, one of its edges is forged.
In working hoops, instead of rivets, the use of bolts is allowed, and if the capacity of the barrel is small, then steel rims can be replaced with wire ones. The diameter of the wire in this case should be 4-5 mm. For those who do not want to mess around for a long time, making hoops on their own, ready-made designs with a tie-lock are on sale.
Barrel assembly
Considering how to make a barrel with our own hands, we came to next step- assembling the skeleton of the container. It consists of rivets tied with hoops (at first temporary).
The assembly of the barrel begins with a smaller hoop. Inside it is inserted at regular intervals and fixed with clamps 3 support rivets. Further, other rivets are added between the two supporting ones until the entire space is filled. Then the hoop is upset using a hammer and wooden block with a flat end so that all the fragments close tightly. After that, a larger hoop is put on the rivets and also upset.
Assembly of the skeleton Before putting on the rims on the bottom of the barrel, it is recommended to immerse the material in boiling water for half an hour. To carry out further work, you will need 1-2 assistants. After steaming, the barrel is placed on a flat surface, the remaining free end of the rivets is wrapped with a rope, the ends of which are tied to some firmly fixed object.
Further, a crowbar is inserted between the stretched parts of the rope and scrolled so that they are intertwined with each other. At this time, your assistants should keep the barrel in place. When it is possible to achieve the desired bend and seal of the rivets, the remaining hoops are put on and fixed. The finished structure should be trimmed and hardened by treating with a burner or blowtorch.
Manufacturing and installation of bottoms
Bottom manufacturing As a bottom for a barrel, it is better to use a single piece of wood or wide and durable planks (it is desirable that the number of joints between them is minimal). Selected boards should be planed so that they can be overlapped and then stapled together. From the resulting workpiece, cut out 2 circles of the required diameter and sharpen their edges until small bevels form.
To fix the bottom, you will first need to loosen the tension of the hoops at the bottom of the barrel, slightly pulling them up. Then the bottom is placed inside and the hoops are upset in place. If the top of the barrel is not removable, then the procedure is repeated for the second side, not forgetting to pre-drill the filling hole. After making sure that the bottom is tightly connected to the frame, the working hoops are replaced with permanent ones, and the container is ready.
Soak
Now you know how to make a barrel yourself, but there is one more important nuance- putting your product into operation. Before use, the barrel needs to be processed, otherwise the products stored in it may become bad taste or even deteriorate.
To begin with, the container must be thoroughly rinsed to get rid of sawdust, small debris and excess tannins. Rinsing is continued until foreign odors disappear and the water becomes clear.
Before use, the barrel must be prepared Next, the barrel is steamed to disinfect it and improve the sealing of the staves. To do this, the container is filled with boiling water by about a third and scrolled so that the water "walks" over the entire surface of the walls from the inside. Then the water is left inside until it cools, drained and the process is repeated again.
After steaming, the barrel should be soaked. Usually this procedure takes about a month, and every two days the water in the tank needs to be updated. In the first days of soaking, there may be leaks in the product, this is a variant of the norm, but the flowing water needs to be replenished.
Before laying the products, the container must be doused with boiling water from the inside. This will protect the wood from absorbing odors and allow it to be used for different foods without mixing its flavors.
A container treated with boiling water before laying food will last longer Summing up, we can say that a do-it-yourself barrel is an excellent solution for storing homemade pickles, as well as for wines and other alcoholic beverages. By making such a container yourself, you will not only save money, but you can also be completely sure of the quality of the product, and, consequently, of observing the proper conditions for storing your products.
Instruction
First of all, choose wood, depending on your purpose. Linden, aspen, poplar, willow, alder are suitable for storing honey. Oak is best suited for salting, pickling or urinating. For other needs, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch are used.
Blanks or staves are made from raw wood, from the bottom of the trunk. Chock, which is 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting, radially split into blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. Then fold the blanks for a month or more in a room with natural ventilation to dry .
Process the dried blanks with a plow and planer, first from the outside, checking the curvature according to the template taken from the finished product. Then process the side surfaces with a jointer, also taking into account the curvature according to the template, and the inner ones, to reduce the thickness in the middle, with an ax.
For the taper of the tub and the convexity of the barrel, the value of the riveting extensions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrowest part. For a tub, the lower end is wider, for a barrel - the middle of the riveting.
For the manufacture of hoops, take a hot-rolled steel strip 1.6-2 mm thick and 30-50 mm wide. To calculate the length of the future hoop, add double the width of the strip to the dimensions of the barrel at the place of the screed. Bend the tape into a ring, punch or drill holes and rivet with soft steel wire 4-5 mm in diameter.
Roll one end of each hoop with a hammer on an anvil. According to the location on the barrel, the hoops are called as follows: the central one is "onion", the extreme one is "morning", the intermediate one is "cervical".
Assemble on a flat surface, pressing two rivets against each other with staples against the morning hoop. Then, in turn, we insert the following staves, collecting the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Tapping with a hammer, we upset the hoop until the edges of the rivets are tightly connected.
If there is a gap left that the last rivet won't fit, don't be afraid to trim it to the correct width, or remove another narrow rivet and insert a wide one.
Trim the ends of the skeleton with a hammer, put on an onion hoop and push it all the way with a hammer. Having set the base evenly, pull off the other edge of the core with a rope loop with a lever. Having planted the second morning hoop, align the ends of the rivets with a humpback planer, 2-3 mm from the hoops.
From one edge of the skeleton, make a groove with a depth and width of 3 mm on the inside with the help of a morten, into which you subsequently insert the bottom.
Assemble the bottom from boards fitted along the edges, nailing them together with brackets, and then cut them along a pre-drawn circle. Insert the bottom after loosening the morning hoop somewhat by adjusting the tightness of the entry and pressing in with light blows of the hammer. The second bottom is also inserted on the other side, with the only difference being that a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is first drilled in it, to which a cork is adjusted.