Self-leveling floor on a wooden base brand. We make a floating concrete screed under the tiles on the wooden floor. Design features of plank floors

Currently in repair work Increasingly, factory-prepared mixtures are used, which allow you to quickly and accurately level any type of floor covering. A self-leveling floor on a wooden base is one of the most popular ways of arranging the floor.

The main advantages are durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, materials are produced in a wide range, there are even options with a 3D image.

What to look for when choosing a material

First of all, you need to carefully examine the packaging. All manufacturers indicate what exactly this or that composition is suitable for. To make a self-leveling floor in wooden house, you need to choose materials with appropriate marks, universal compositions are also suitable. But if the package indicates that the solution is suitable for concrete or anhydride screeds, then it cannot be used for wood.

When choosing a composition, attention should be paid to the purpose - for wooden base only universal or special mixes are suitable

It is important to remember that self-leveling floors on wood are poured with a layer of 3 to 7 centimeters, so it is not advisable to buy expensive gypsum mixtures that are designed for a layer of about 0.2–2.5 cm. The use of cement or gypsum-cement mortars is recommended. To determine the type, you need to read the composition. The first substance is the one that contains the most.

In addition to the material, it is necessary to purchase a plastic film that will serve as waterproofing. In rare cases, coating waterproofing can be used instead of polyethylene. You will also need damper tape.

Foundation Requirements

It should be noted that self-leveling floors can not be applied to every surface. The foundation must meet the following requirements:

1. Floors should not creak.
2. The boards are securely fastened and do not bend while walking.
3. The floor covering has a small blockage.
4. There are no serious defects on the surface: large cracks, holes, and so on.
5. Each board must be intact, without traces of fungus and mold.

It is not necessary that the base be even, the main thing is the good quality of the board, the absence of creaking and solidity

If any of the listed defects is found, part of the floor or the entire surface will have to be replaced.

Preparatory work

Self-leveling floors can be laid on a wooden floor only on condition of high-quality preparation of the basis. It is from this stage that the duration of the use of the coating depends, its appearance and performance indicators.

Immediately before starting work, you need to check the air temperature and humidity level. Required parameters indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Compliance with these requirements is the key to successful completion of work.

Preparation of bulk solution

You need to take a clean, dry container and pour water into it with a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C. Then add the mixture and mix with a construction mixer or a drill with an appropriate nozzle for 7 minutes. After that, it is necessary to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and repeat the procedure. It is better not to prepare the composition in large portions, since it begins to set on average after half an hour.

Attention! It is necessary to strictly follow the proportions specified by the manufacturer. If not enough water is added, the mixture will dry too quickly, possibly even during pouring. Otherwise, the finished coating will be less durable.

The preparation of bulk mixtures is carried out exclusively with a construction mixer or mixing nozzle

Pouring technology

The method of pouring floors in a private house or apartment using leveling compounds practically does not differ from working with a cement-sand mixture, only self-leveling floors dry out faster.

You need to start from the place that is located the lowest in level. The material is poured from the container into the space between the beacons and aligned with the rule, passing it along the beacons. After that, you need to roll the area with a spiked roller. Treat all stripes in this way.

When the material begins to set, you need to get the beacons out of it. The resulting strobes should be filled with the same solution and leveled, taking into account the finished surface, which will serve as a level. It is recommended to start further finishing no earlier than a week later.

To ensure that the results of the repair are not disappointing, you must follow the recommendations:

To equip self-leveling floors on wooden bases, you must follow the above rules and recommendations that manufacturers give on the packages. In addition, it is important to remember that the material dries quite quickly, so it is better to work with a partner.

Tiled and self-leveling floors on wooden floors cannot be made without a leveling screed.

Leveling a wooden base can be done with wet cement-sand mortar, semi-dry mixture with fiber, GVL, or Knauf floor slabs over a layer of insulation.

Figure 1. Screed by hardwood floor.

Feature of the screed device on a wooden floor

The cement-sand screed, after drying and gaining strength, turns into a monolithic slab that is not subject to linear changes. A tree has the ability to expand or shrink under the influence of humidity and temperature changes. Bonded to the base screed, under the influence of unstable wooden structures, will be covered with cracks and collapse.

Therefore, the main condition when constructing a concrete screed on a wooden base is its isolation from wooden structures. So that the screed solution does not touch the wood of the walls and floor.

In addition, the screed should not overload the ceiling too much.

Preparation of the base for the screed

Before deciding to pour concrete screed according to wooden floor carefully inspect the base. Check the condition of the log and floor boards.

The wooden coating must be rigid and durable, not have traces of mold, rotting.

If the coating does not inspire confidence, you can strengthen it by installing additional logs, or replacing worn floorboards.

Figure 2. Repair of a wooden floor.

Before installing a leveling screed on a repaired wooden base, we carry out preparatory measures:

1. Large cracks and junctions to the walls are sealed with epoxy putty or mounting foam.After hardening, cut off the excess sealant, grind the irregularities.
2. We clean the floor surface from debris and dust and treat it with an antiseptic, and then with a primer twice.
3. To the walls, along the perimeter of the room, we attach the damper tape to the double-sided tape. It will separate the concrete floor from wooden wall. The tape should be wider than the height of the screed by 5-10 centimeters.

You can use foamed polystyrene or a wooden board for these purposes.

1. We lay a dense polyethylene film, at least 100 microns thick, separating the screed and floor boards. We overlap the strips of film, fastening them together with adhesive tape, with a 15-20 cm approach to the walls.

Figure 3. Wood floor insulation.

We strictly monitor the integrity of the coating to ensure the tightness of the insulation. Moisture must not be allowed to enter the wooden floors, both during the installation of the screed and during the operation of the coating.

1. A wet screed, arranged on a wooden floor, must be reinforced. To do this, we lay a steel mesh on the insulated surface, with a cell of 10x10. When pouring, the mesh should fall into the array of the screed, so it is better to lay it on supports from the solution.

Important!
A semi-dry screed does not require additional reinforcement, since the reinforcing fiber is part of the solution.

1. Using a laser or hydraulic level, we mark the height of the screed. To do this, we transfer the horizon line to the wall. It can be at a height of one meter from the floor. Then, using measurements, we find the highest point of the floor and from it, adding three centimeters of the thickness of the screed, we find the mark of the surface of the screed. We transfer this line to the wall along the perimeter of the premises.
2. We set guide beacons along the insulating layer, along which the screeds will be aligned. We make them from a mortar, in the form of continuous strips, or a steel profile mounted on slides from a mortar. You cannot screw the profile to the base with self-tapping screws so as not to violate the integrity of the insulation.

The height of the beacons is regulated strictly according to the level, pressing the slats into the mixture or adding a solution under them.

We arrange the first row of lighthouses at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the wall, and the next - after 1-1.5 meters from each other, but not more than the length of the rule.

Filling the screed can only be started after the solution of the beacons has dried.

Semi-dry screed device

A semi-dry screed is made from cement, sand, modifying additives and reinforcing fibers. The minimum amount of water is added to the mixture, necessary only for the hydration of the cement.

It is necessary to perform such a screed in strict accordance with the manufacturing technology and building regulations. following a certain sequence.

Solution preparation

The solution, in large quantities, is prepared at the construction site, in a pneumatic blower. This device performs the function of a mortar mixer and a concrete pump. With its use, there is no need for lifting mechanisms.

Figure 4. Manufacture and supply of solution using a pneumatic blower.

All components of the solution are loaded into the container of the device, in a certain sequence and thoroughly mixed. Under the pressure of compressed air, the mixture is fed through a hose to the place of work.

For uniform distribution of the mixture coming through the hose, special dampers are used.

Mortar, directly at the installation site, can be prepared in a mortar mixer or in a container using a construction mixer.

It is better to use ready-made dry mix in bags for such purposes.

If it is not there, we take cement and sand, in a ratio of one to three and mixing, gradually add fiber, at the rate of about 700 grams of fiber, per cubic meter solution.

At the end of the process, add a little water and mix until smooth.

Styling can be facilitated by adding plasticizers to the finished mixture.

Important!
We check the correctness of the consistency by squeezing a small amount of the mixture in a fist. The finished solution should turn into a dense lump that does not release water when compressed.

Screed device

It is necessary to lay the semi-dry mixture strictly according to the installed beacons, starting from the far wall of the room.

We level and compact the mortar with the help of a rule and a vibrating screed, carefully filling all the joints.

Two hours after laying, the beacons can be removed, and the resulting cavities can be sealed with a solution.

Figure 5. Grouting a semi-dry screed.

Rub the entire screed with a disc grinder. Rub the corners and junctions to the walls with a trowel. At the same time, it is better to move along a freshly laid screed in special concrete shoes in order to avoid its punching and damage.

If the room is more than 20 square meters, on the surface of the screed we cut expansion joints.

After grouting, the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even.

After a day, you can walk on the screed, and after three to four days, you can start finishing.

A semi-dry screed is an ideal base for tiles or other coatings on a wooden base.

It has many advantages over wet or dry screed:

• the finished coating is highly durable and resistant to abrasion;
• due to the semi-dry porous structure, much lighter than a wet screed, its device does not significantly load wooden structures;
• has high soundproofing and thermal performance;
• the use of a minimum amount of water mixed with reinforcing fiber, eliminates the formation of cracks and shrinkage of the finished screed;
• dirty wet processes and ingress of water from the solution onto the ceiling and lower floors are excluded;
• Modern technology and efficient equipment allows the production of large volumes of semi-dry screed in a short time.

The permissible thickness of a semi-dry screed is from three to five centimeters.

It is possible to perform a semi-dry screed on the underfloor heating system.

In this case, it is necessary to lay expanded polystyrene on a wooden base, and then roll insulation with a foil layer.

Figure 6. Scheme of the device of the underfloor heating system in the screed on a wooden floor.

Place the underfloor heating cable system on the insulation.

I recommend!
When installing underfloor heating systems in wooden houses, it is better to give preference to heating mats or infrared heater in the form of a film with heating elements that can be laid on the finished screed in a layer of tile adhesive.

Wet screed

Wet technology screed is made of cement and sand, in a ratio of 1:3 with the addition of water, to a plastic, creamy state.

Such a screed requires careful waterproofing of the base, which prevents the penetration of water from the mortar onto wooden structures.

The solution is prepared directly at the place of pouring and is laid in an even layer over the beacons.

On a wooden floor, a wet screed device is undesirable for the following reasons:

• due to gravity, a wet screed requires a hard and solid foundation;
• the wet process increases the humidity in the house, which is not desirable for wooden structures;
• with minor damage to the film waterproofing, water from the screed can enter the wooden base and lower floors;
• wet screed requires mandatory reinforcement, which additionally makes the structure heavier;
• the period of drying and curing of the wet screed is 28 days;
• the entire drying period, a wet screed requires care: protection from drafts and moisture.

Figure 7. Installation of a wet cement-sand screed.

Dry screed device on a wooden base

A dry screed consists of a layer of insulation and a hard coating of GVL, GKL or special two-layer slabs for the floor of the Knauf system.

Expanded clay of various fractions, rigid mineral slabs or Penoplex can be used as a heater.

Under the expanded clay we lay a layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene, 200 microns thick, so that it is not damaged when filling and ramming the expanded clay.

Important!
We put polyethylene on the walls 10-15 centimeters above the screed mark and fix it with construction tape. Polyethylene strips are overlapped and glued together with adhesive tape.

We mark the height of the expanded clay layer using a laser level. We transfer the marks to the walls along the perimeter of the premises.

We install beacons from a metal profile for drywall. Lighthouses are verified strictly according to the building level marks.

We pour a layer of expanded clay, carefully compacting and leveling with a long rail. We fill and ram the junctions to the walls.

Figure 8. GVL screed device for expanded clay.

A day later, on the compacted expanded clay layer, we lay plasterboard sheets or floor slabs of the KNAUF system.

In the case of using sheets, we lay out the first layer on the surface of expanded clay, leaving deformation gaps between the sheets of 1 millimeter, with an offset in the seams.

We cover the first layer with glue and lay the second layer of sheets on it, also shifting the seams by at least 30-40 centimeters. We fasten the layers together with self-tapping screws.

When using ready-made Knauf panels, we lay them on a compacted surface and fasten them with special locking joints.

Seams, joints and recesses from self-tapping screws are sealed with putty, sanded and coated with two layers of primer.

Advantages of dry screed:

• perfectly flat base
• excellent sound and heat insulation due to expanded clay;
• light weight does not require structural reinforcement;
• the surface is ready for finishing immediately after laying;

Figure 9. Diagram of a GVL screed device on a wooden base.

The only drawback of a dry screed with insulation is its large thickness, which does not allow it to be used in rooms with low ceilings.

Which screed to choose

In the presence of a strong and rigid wooden base, it is better to choose a semi-dry floor screed.

It will not load the ceiling too much, water from the screed will not get on the wooden structures, even if the integrity of the waterproofing is violated. Creates a solid base for laying any fine floor covering.

When leveling floors in old and dilapidated wooden houses, preference should be given to a dry coating. A dry screed is suitable if it is necessary to insulate the floor of the first floor or the ceiling above an unheated basement.

If you decide to make a screed on a wooden floor, contact the experts who will help you choose best option leveling your floor and perform the work efficiently, quickly and professionally.

Wooden floors, if the right materials are used for their installation and if they are properly installed, can maintain their strength and stability for decades. Sometimes the question arises of laying concrete screeds directly on such floors. Why is there such a need? They think about a concrete screed in cases where they strive to perfectly level the floor in order to lay some kind of coating on it ( ceramic tiles, layer polymer materials). The same method is used when a complete wooden floor is too expensive.

What you need to know about wood floors

Wood, which has a lot of technological advantages, is also known for one significant drawback that should be taken into account when working with it. This disadvantage is that it does not have static nature: even after the construction is completed, the wooden elements continue to “live” guided only by their own laws. Changes in humidity and temperature conditions cause:

• increase or decrease in volume wooden parts and elements;
• their shrinkage in height;
• increase or decrease in their linear dimensions.

This feature of the tree determined the rule that builders involved in the construction of wooden structures are always guided by: fine finish log cabins should be made no earlier than two years after their construction. As applied to our topic, this rule should be interpreted as follows:

It is strictly forbidden to pour concrete mortar on a new concrete floor. Concrete screed can be laid only after 3-4 years after the completion of the floor installation.

The mobility of wooden floor structures increases when any heating systems are laid under them. Each start-up and shutdown of such a system will cause them to move slightly.

If we compare the mobility of wooden structures with the mobility of a concrete slab, which is formed when laying the screed, it should be noted that the geometric dimensions of the latter change only during hydration. When the hardening of concrete ends, the dimensions of the monolith practically do not change. Such a difference in the behavior of wood and concrete in the event of their tight contact can cause cracks in the screed. Moreover, in such a case, it may even crumble completely.

The leveling technology produced without connection with walls and with a wooden floor, which we will discuss below, allows each of the elements - floor boards and screed concrete - to exist, obeying only its own principles and without harming its neighbor.

Materials required for work

If an assessment of the condition of the wooden floor and other related conditions has led you to the conclusion that a concrete screed is really necessary and that it is quite possible to make it, it is necessary to prepare in advance the materials that will be required during the work.

When preparing, it must be remembered that the mass of the fill must be sufficient to guarantee the tightness of the junction of the screed to the boards. However, the large weight of the concrete used can cause subsidence of the floor, bending, and then the destruction of the laid screed.

If the condition of the floor tells you that this course of events is quite possible, when preparing the concrete mix, you should use a plasticizer that will give the concrete some mobility while maintaining its integrity. An additional advantage of plasticizers is also that these substances can have a positive effect on increasing the water resistance of the screed, which will be an additional protection for wooden structures.

And so, the list of materials required for laying the screed includes:

• cement and required amount plasticizers;
• the film needed to separate the concrete from the surface of the wooden floor;
• sand;
• any suitable sealant;
• epoxy or other suitable putty;
• primer with a water-repellent effect;
• metal mesh for reinforcement.

During preparation, you need to make sure that there are no breaks on the purchased film. Since the film should be laid overlapping, and its edges should rise slightly to the plane of the walls, when calculating its amount, at least 15% should be added to the area of ​​​​the room.

You should also remember about the tools that will be needed in the course of work. In particular, you will need:

• spatula with which putty and sealant will be applied to the floor;
• hammer and screwdriver to strengthen the floor with nails or self-tapping screws.

Preparing the surface of wooden floors

A concrete screed can be applied to the floor only if its surface is completely ready for this. When preparing it, you should carefully examine each floorboard to make sure that they are free of rot and cracks. All boards must be securely fastened, there should be no gaps between them. Boards with major damage are removed and replaced with new ones. If it becomes necessary to interrupt the floor, then the nail heads should be recessed. The resulting recesses must be carefully puttied.

When preparing the floor surface, you must:

• fill with putty and, if necessary, mounting foam all the cracks on the floor;
• process wooden elements with sealants;
• after drying all the substances applied to the floor, clean it of debris and treat it with a moisture-resistant primer;

• when the primer dries, roll out the film with an overlap, so that it goes fifteen centimeters onto the plane of the walls. Excess film must be cut off. Fixing the film, if necessary, should be done with adhesive tape. The use of nails to fix it is unacceptable. To achieve a better result, a reinforcing mesh can be laid on top of the film.

In the video below, you can see how the film is properly laid on the surface of a wooden floor:

Having completed all these operations, you should start applying the preparatory markup. One of original ways markup is presented in the following video:

Directly on the film covering the floor, with the help of concrete, rack beacons are strengthened, the distance between which should not be more sizes rules used when leveling concrete mortar.

Concrete screed and the process of pouring it

Pouring is preceded by the manufacture of concrete mix. For its preparation, clean sand and cement grade 400 are taken in a ratio of 3: 1. The solution is prepared on the basis of water with the addition of special plasticizers or similar substances. For mixing, you can use plastic container large size and a drill with a mixing nozzle. After mixing the solution, it is necessary to let it settle, and then mix it again.

If the thickness of the screed does not exceed 1 cm, then the consumption of the concrete mixture will be about 15 kg / m 2. Pouring the solution should be done, focusing on the beacons. Filling the entire floor must be done at the same time. Partitioning is not allowed. In the process of pouring with a spiked roller made of cement mortar air bubbles must be removed. Leveling the mixture poured onto the floor so that the concrete screed is even is carried out using a wide spatula or rule.

The techniques for leveling the screed on wood and concrete floors are similar, so the following video can be used to learn more about the techniques used:

The drying time of the laid screed is 28 days. During the first two days after laying, it should be moistened with water three times a day. After that, the beacons are removed, and the surface is primed and rubbed. After a month, the concrete screed is completely ready for full operation.

In the video below, although it is not in Russian, you can perfectly see all the schematically presented steps for laying a concrete screed on a wooden floor.

If your old wood flooring in your home has lost its appearance, has not rotted or cracked, or you want to arrange heating, you may be interested in information on how to pour flooring on wooden floors without dismantling them. So, the concrete screed will be poured from above onto the existing base, for which it is initially necessary to coordinate the height of the future coating with doorways and communication lines (pipes, radiators, etc.). In most cases, you have to shorten door leafs by sawing them from the bottom. Sometimes they resort to installing new doors, and all the highways are laid in a new way, here the decision is made by the owners of the dwelling.

For the device of a high-quality screed on an existing wooden flooring, mixes are chosen that are suitable for such purposes, otherwise there is a risk of destruction of the screed if the old floor is rotten or sagged from old age. Here, bulk mixtures are the best suited, which are easily leveled and quickly harden. For greater strength, such a screed should be reinforced by reinforcing it, and it is desirable to check the compressive strength 28-30 days after laying. Typically, the height of the concrete layer is 10 mm.

Concrete as a screed: installation steps

Anyone who is familiar with construction knows that any such process begins with preparatory work, and device floor covering in a wooden house is no exception.

Foundation preparation

Be sure to check that the old floor is not rotten and can withstand the load from the new screed.

The main task facing the craftsmen in this case is to ensure high strength of the screed after it has hardened.

If you are dealing with a very worn out previous foundation in a house filled with concrete, you need to eliminate the exfoliated layer by grinding or milling. The fat accumulated over the years of long-term operation of the floor structure, the adhesive base, the old bulk mixtures must be removed, as well as unevenness, the differences of which exceed 10 mm, must be leveled. For such purposes, special cement-based mixtures are used, or, more simply, concrete. Final leveling can only be carried out after the complete hardening of the mass that has filled the recesses.

Arranging the pouring on the old wooden flooring in the house, all rotten and broken boards are removed, and new ones are nailed to the logs in their place. You also need to ensure that each board is securely fixed and does not sway, which can be eliminated with ordinary self-tapping screws. In no case should there be a creak or deflection of the floor when exposed to its surface. If there are holes in the flooring through which concrete will flow, they are sealed with wood putty, which consists of wood dust and plastic components. You can also prepare such a putty yourself: mix sawdust with oil paint in a ratio of 4:1. Water-soluble putties are not suitable for such purposes.

Step by step, before the main process, the subfloor is prepared as follows:

1. Skirting boards are dismantled, and boards are put in their place, which will cover the openings between the wall and the floor.
2. The gaps between the installed boards and the base are puttied. After removing the boards between the wall and the covering, the ventilation of the underground space will be restored.

Padding

The wooden flooring in the house must be sanded, and then with a vacuum cleaner remove all debris and primed. The primer will significantly improve the adhesion between the concrete and the old coating and prevent the formation of air bubbles. Also, the soil will not allow the water contained in the solution to quickly soak into the wood and ensure uniform spreading of the mixture over the base. Dry flooring must be primed twice, and in the case of multi-layer leveling, each layer of the fill is processed. Make sure that before applying the primer, the floor is not wet, even to a slight extent, otherwise the result will not give the desired effect.

Reinforcement

For a weak wooden base in the house, it is best to purchase fiberglass-based mesh, which will strengthen the leveling layer. It is attached directly to the base with staples and a special stapler. Staples will not allow the grid to emerge after pouring the solution. The reinforcement system must be mounted in the middle or just below a third of the thickness of the screed. When hammering the staples, control the strength of their fixation to the flooring.

Mixing concrete

The preparation of the solution is given Special attention because the final result depends on its quality. Basically, for such purposes, dry formulations are purchased in bags of 25 kg. This amount of dry matter takes about 6.5 liters of water, if the desired consistency is not obtained, you can gradually add another 0.5 liters of liquid. Do not overdo it, as a thin solution is difficult to fill, and it will not have the necessary strength properties. The kneading process itself is best done with a drill with special nozzle until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The finished solution must be used within 15 minutes after mixing, otherwise it will harden and be unsuitable for work. Also remember to control temperature regime in a wooden house and in mortar. The optimal indicator is not lower than + 10C. If you are working in a new, unheated building, a warm water, the temperature of which should not exceed + 35C.

Pouring concrete

Now that the wooden base and mortar are ready, you can install self-leveling floors in the house. The screed is poured continuously until its surface is perfectly aligned. In the work, spatulas with steel or serrated blades are used. After 4-5 hours after the wooden flooring is covered with mortar, you can carefully step on it. After 6 hours after the completed process, grinding of the surface is allowed, if necessary. It is usually carried out for future staining or applying liquid floors. Before sanding, boards are removed that are temporarily installed instead of skirting boards, they have fulfilled their mission and are no longer needed.

We process expansion joints

In those places where there were expansion joints (doorways), a layer of screed is cut out using a grinder with a diamond wheel. This process is carried out only after the bulk surfaces have hardened and it is allowed to walk on them. Further, each seam must be filled with a special material that is intended exclusively for such purposes. It is highly elastic and seals the holes in the screed hermetically. When you calculate the required amount of material for self-leveling floors, proceed from the following parameters: for a layer thickness of 1 mm, 1.5 kg / sq.m. mixtures.

After finishing work, be sure to clean the tool before the solution has hardened on it, which will complicate such actions. To do this, wash the spatulas and rules with water, and clean off the hardened mass with a coarse brush or a spatula with a flat blade. Now you know that in a house with an old wood coating, you can arrange a concrete mortar screed, and you are also familiar with the technology of such work.

A good example of filling the floor is shown in the video:

When repairs begin, the question arises: what kind of floor to lay? Advocates of the latest technology stop at self-leveling polymer floors, however, there are those who prefer a wooden floor. Its popularity has not faded over the centuries, and this is not surprising, since wood is a natural, environmentally friendly material that does not contain any chemical impurities, and most importantly, wooden floors are warm. Installation of such a floor on a concrete base is quite feasible with your own hands, you just need to take into account the nuances of the process and take into account the nature of the room where the installation will be carried out.

The photo shows the process of eliminating holes and cracks in concrete floor

The maximum moisture content of the screed is 3%.

On the preparatory stage communication holes are made in the concrete base using a diamond drill (for sewerage, cables, etc.).
An important point is waterproofing. It serves as a protection for the lag and future wooden flooring from moisture, thereby ensuring a longer service life. waterproofing material Penofol or a thick polyethylene film can be used, which must be laid with an overlap of 20 cm. Another option is to coat with a primer (one-component polyurethane primer). Then proceed to laying the floor.

Waterproofing options

There are three ways to lay a wooden floor on a concrete base:

1. On glue;
2. On the logs;
3. On waterproof plywood.

Glue mounting

The meaning of this method is that the boards are laid directly on concrete screed.

The base must meet the requirements of SNiP 3.04.01-87.

If the concrete has a loose structure, cracks are present, a separating substrate is placed on the base or soils are used for strengthening.

When using a wide solid wood, fastening of boards is carried out on elastic polyurethane one-component glue. A narrow engineered or solid board is fixed with a two-component polyurethane adhesive.

Installation is done like this:

• The room is measured, and boards of the required length are cut;
• An adhesive mass is applied to the base with a spatula, the maximum layer thickness is 3 mm. You need to start from the wall opposite the entrance;
• Two or three rows of boards are laid and pressed. Docking boards in the transverse and longitudinal planes must be tight;
• After the glue hardens, the remaining rows creep. The boards of the last row are cut to width.

Laying on logs

This is the most popular technology to equip a wooden floor, the advantage of which is the masking of communications under the floor. Their minus: since the thickness of the base is 10 cm, it is not recommended to lay such a floor in rooms where the ceiling is low.

Boards are attached to wooden ones, which are bars, beams or thick boards standing on edge.

Installation of a wooden floor on logs is applicable if the thickness of the boards is at least 20 mm.

Logs are placed on the base perpendicular to the rays of light penetrating from the window in compliance with the step:

1. Board less than 35 mm thick - 0.6 m;
2. 35-40 mm - 0.8 m;
3. More than 40 mm - 1 m.

The sequence of actions when arranging a wooden floor on logs is as follows:

• Fix the logs to the concrete base with screws and dowels. Drown their hats by a few millimeters;
• Align the lags according to the level. The deviation should not exceed 2 mm for every two meters;
• lay wood-fiber material along the walls for sound insulation;
• fill the niches between the lags with materials for sound and heat insulation (expanded clay, mineral wool, polystyrene, etc.);
• fix the floorboards with self-tapping screws.

Laying is done in the direction of the rays of light, starting from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to leave a seam with a width of 0.7-1 cm in case of expansion with increasing temperature.

Technology for fixing floorboards on logs

The joints of the boards should be located in the middle of the lag.

A tongue-and-groove board has a groove on one edge, and a tongue on the other side, this contributes to the rigid fastening of adjacent boards. It is advisable to drill holes for self-tapping screws in advance and obliquely, which will prevent cracking of the boards. When all the boards are laid, it is the turn of the skirting boards.

Mounting on a plywood base

Technology of laying plywood on a concrete base

On a concrete screed, laying a wooden floor can be carried out using moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is from 12 to 18 mm. How it's done?

• Plywood is cut into squares 40x40 or 80x80 cm.
• undergo rough grinding.
• Sheets are laid with a gap of 4 mm diagonally towards the future wooden floor. First, plywood is fixed with glue, and then with dowels. 10 mm must be retreated from the wall. Laying plywood sheets is similar to laying bricks. Screw heads are recessed by 3-4 mm.
• The surface is cleaned from dust and dirt.
• Floor boards are fastened with self-tapping screws to plywood.

Laying wooden floors on a concrete screed is easy. Subject to the laying technology, such floors will last for many years and provide a warm and comfortable microclimate in the house.

Dear reader, leave your opinion about the article in the comments and share your secrets of installing wooden floors.