How houses are built from timber. How to independently build a house from a bar: selection of materials, design, construction technology. Column type foundation

In the recommendations on how to build a house from a bar with your own hands cheaply and beautifully, many construction projects are offered. A novice master can be confused by the abundance of descriptions of construction methods, but if you carefully analyze all the proposed methods, you will notice that the construction rules are described the same everywhere, and in order to build inexpensive, beautiful, environmentally friendly housing, it is enough to have the skills to work with an electric saw, a hammer and a screwdriver .

A person decides: “I want to build a house from a bar with my own hands”, begins to look for information on how to do it cheaply and beautifully, but the proposed projects do not seem quite suitable, but I want something of my own, individual. How to be in this case?

The problem is solved simply. Any building, regardless of size and layout features, consists of the following components:

• foundation;
• walls;
• roof;

Foundation

The choice of the type of foundation must be taken seriously, because this is the basis of the durability of the future structure. There are 3 main types of foundation:

• Tape. It's easiest to do it yourself. The tape design is considered the most successful in order to build a country house or a small cottage.
• Pile. It is recommended for use in construction on loose or silty soils. Concrete piles or asbestos pipes are installed in the trench as pillars.
• Slab. A concrete slab is used as a subfloor, on which a log cabin will be erected.

A three-dimensional model of a pile foundation for future housing provides an exhaustive answer to the question of structural strength

Beginning builders, if soil features allow (the soil is quite dense and dry or moderately moist), it is recommended to give preference tape construction. In addition to ease of execution, this type of foundation has the following advantages:

• Functionality. On it you can build with your own hands not only a small house, but also two-storey house.
• Variability. On the proposed basis, it is possible to build not only square or rectangular buildings, but also additional extensions.
• Cheapness and reliability. For small summer cottages, a small depth is sufficient, which means that concreting the base will be cheap. This provides no less strength than more expensive foundation laying options.
• Possibility to make a cellar. The presence of storage for homemade products has always been considered necessary for a suburban building.
• Aesthetics. The concrete part slightly protruding above the soil does not spoil appearance buildings, and if desired, it can be beautifully finished with tiles or decorative stone.

The process of pouring the foundation of a large area is carried out by special construction organizations

Beginners will find it convenient to use a step-by-step guide:

1. Markup. It is recommended to pay maximum attention to this stage, because the configuration of the future house depends on the markup. For this, at the location of the internal and outside corners pegs are placed, and a construction line is stretched between them. Before proceeding to next step construction, you need to measure the distance in all sections between the threads stretched along the inner and outer perimeter (it should be the same).
2. Digging trenches. The trenches are dug so that they protrude 10 cm on both sides of the marking thread, the depth must be at least 60 cm. If there is a need for a cellar, then at this stage a foundation pit is dug under it.
3. Filling trenches. At the bottom of the dug trench, moistened gravel or crushed stone is poured with a layer of 10 cm (moistening can be carried out after backfilling, abundantly pouring crushed stone with water).
4. Pouring concrete. A pre-prepared concrete solution is poured over the gravel with a layer of 5-10 cm.
5. Installation of spacers. For this, temporary wooden shields are used, which are interconnected on the inside with wooden ones fixed on the upper part, and on the outside they are supported by supports made of boards or any material at hand.
6. Reinforcement. Reinforced rods are laid along and across the resulting corridor from wooden shields in several layers, and at the intersections the rods are fastened with a wire.
7. Formwork pouring. After laying the reinforcement, a concrete solution is poured. To increase the strength (so that no air bubbles remain in the concrete monolith), it is recommended to use a vibrator for concreting.

Poured foundation for a house under construction

After completion of all work, it is necessary to wait 4 weeks (the time for complete solidification of the concrete mixture), after which you can begin to build with your own hands an inexpensive and practical log house.

Walls

The construction of a house from a bar begins with the laying of 2 layers of roofing material on the base along the entire perimeter. This waterproofing will reliable protection from moisture.

• Creation of dense waterproofing. It is good to coat the roofing material with bitumen and put a new sheet on top. Alternate bitumen with roofing felt until a waterproofing layer thickness of 30 cm is reached.
• Installing underlayment board. This stage in the technology of building a house from a bar is not considered mandatory, but builders recommend installing a larch board 5 mm thick under the first crown. This is due to the fact that in the future, during repairs, the replacement of the wedding board will not only be faster, but also cheaper than replacing the entire lower crown.
• Crown laying. The first crown is laid on top of the lining board or waterproofing and, regardless of the chosen design, is always connected to half a tree. Subfloor boards are installed horizontally on it.
• Insulating material is laid on top of the bars. Tape insulation is considered the optimal heat-insulating material, but you can use tow, linen or jute, which are fixed on the surface of the tree with a construction stapler. Insulation will prevent heat loss, prevent cold condensation and reduce the risk of mold.
• Construction of the first floor. On top of the first crown, the rest are laid with a thermal insulation gasket and fastened together with dowels (vertical pins). This is how the construction of the first floor (about 3 m high) takes place, while leaving openings for the door and windows.

It looks like a foundation waterproofed with materials intended for this

For one-story buildings, the construction of a log house can be considered completed. If you plan to build a second floor, then you need to lay a subfloor and wait at least 4 months for the wood to shrink. If this is not done, then during the shrinkage process, the structure may deform and lose strength.

Before erecting the roof, it is also necessary to give the beam time to shrink.

Recommendations regarding the shrinkage time are given to those who plan to take a solid timber for construction. But most craftsmen advise building a house from profiled timber with their own hands. Unlike solid, glued (profiled) timber does not shrink, it looks beautiful outwardly, but it costs more.

For those who doubt their ability to beautifully and correctly build a house with their own hands, it is recommended to purchase a ready-made log house from a bar. This option will not be so cheap, and there will be fewer possibilities for planning the interior, but pre-marked bars are much easier to assemble. In addition, you can always make an additional extension to the house from a bar with your own hands.

Roof

The phased construction of the roof includes:

1. Cover installation. Ceiling beams are laid on a log house at a distance of 1 m from each other. Beams must lie strictly horizontally.
2. Roof frame installation. First, a draft frame of rafters is placed, which are located at a distance of about a meter from each other, and then boards or beams are attached to the rafters.
3. Lathing installation. It is attached step by step to the rafters with an interval of 40 cm.
4. Laying hydro- and thermal insulation. The material is fixed in layers on the rafters and ceiling beams.
5. Roof decking. The last step will cover the frame roofing material. Here it is possible to use corrugated board made according to modern technologies, but you can use more cheap option and cover the roof with slate.

Properly executed roofing system not only provides protection from moisture, but also promotes air exchange.

After the installation of the roof, the door and window frames are installed in the openings intended for them.

Floor

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the subfloor, and a heater is mounted on top of it. For insulation, you can use:

• Mineral wool. The use of mineral wool, made using special technologies, not only allows you to get a warm floor, but also provides additional protection against moisture penetration.
• Styrofoam. The material is inexpensive and provides good thermal insulation.
• Sawdust. Eco-friendly and cheap material. The cost of a large 50-liter bag of sawdust will be 100-200 rubles. If there is a home sawmill, some craftsmen prefer to make sawdust themselves, using construction waste for this.
• Expanded clay. Granules of baked clay retain heat well and are not afraid of moisture. They are recommended to be used for floor insulation in damp rooms.

Finishing floor boards are laid on top of the insulation, and decorative finishing is carried out.

After the construction of the house is completed, you can proceed to the exterior and interior decoration.

• Section size. A house built from a 6x6 m timber with a section of 80x140 mm will be cheap, but this wall thickness is only suitable for country houses or summer buildings - in winter it will be cold in such housing. For regions where winter colds are down to -30 °, it is recommended to build from the thickest material, approximately 230x140 mm.
• Characteristics of the material. For construction, solid or profiled timber is used. The instruction on how to build a house from glued beams 150x150 mm is exactly the same as for working with solid beams, the difference is only in the speed of construction (there is no need to wait for the wood to shrink). Profiled is more expensive, but it looks beautiful and does not need additional finishing.

Various sections of glued beams

To build housing from solid beams or to build a house from glued beams with your own hands is an individual choice of the builder. It should only be remembered that solid beams do not look very aesthetically pleasing and need additional decoration.

After a step-by-step review of all the stages, the instruction on how to build a log house no longer seems too complicated. If you follow all the recommendations, then you can cheaply build strong, beautiful and durable housing with your own hands.

Demanded phenomenon on suburban areas is a construction site wooden houses. Because the timber house is of high quality and comfortable. Moreover, it looks quite chic from the outside, you can see this by looking at photos of wooden houses. The construction of such a house can afford not only the elite. The ability to work with a chainsaw or an electric saw makes it possible to build a reliable house from a bar with your own hands.
Timber house construction technology
The beam is considered a universal building material, and it is quite simple to operate. The huge demand for wood is due to its economy and environmental friendliness. uncomplicated technology the construction of log houses does not portend a large investment of time. You should catch all the nuances of the work presented in the video lessons and photos, as well as in the articles, and even inexperienced builders will have a chance to build a house from a bar with their own hands.
In the construction of a house, everything has to be done in stages, then the speed and productivity of construction is guaranteed, and a certain period of time must be maintained between some stages.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar

Material selection

The duration of construction and its technology proportionally depends on the type of timber. It is faster to build a house from dried wood, but given the material costs, the construction will cost much more. It is cheaper to build a building from raw timber, but construction in this case takes more time.
For the construction of housing, the following types of wood are used:
1. Profiled timber.
2. Whole bar.
Benefits of profiled timber:
— resistance to deformations;
- minimum construction costs;
- the risk of decay is excluded;
- excellent thermal insulation;
- high-quality armor from blowing;
- no additional wall cladding is required;
- simple assembly ensures the speed of construction;
- impressive appearance.

Flaws:
- high flammability;
- needs to be impregnated with means to increase biosecurity and fire protection;
- formation of cracks at elevated temperatures;
- need additional insulation of the walls;
- it is impossible to carry out redevelopment of the erected log house;
- dependent on weather conditions.
Advantages of a solid bar:
- does not require the use of special equipment;
- there are no problems with the acquisition, since such a beam is widespread;
- low price, makes the timber affordable for everyone.

Flaws:
- finishing costs;
— low protection against blowing;
- decent cracking of the timber;
- such a construction needs double-sided cladding;
- need careful selection: compliance with GOST, the absence of fungus;
- in the presence of a fungus, the timber needs to be treated with antiseptic agents.
When choosing, you should bet on the wear resistance of wood. Accuracy in the choice of timber, as well as adherence to technology, are a guarantee of the quality of the house.

Preparation of materials

Whole required volume material should be collected before construction begins. The purchase of materials provides for two development options:
- purchase of finished timber. When ordering a material, the customer indicates all the necessary measurements and purchases a finished beam with grooves, which can be used immediately;
- purchase of wood, which you need to prepare with your own hands. In this case, you have to cut the bars yourself, after which it should be treated with an antiseptic. Only then will construction begin.
When buying wood, you should pay attention to the following factors:
- the quality of the tree;
- did the beetles feed on this timber and whether they live in it;
- are there any through cracks in the tree;
- Is the beam affected by a fungus?

Project development

Drawing up a diagram of a log house requires attentiveness and accuracy of calculations. It is quite possible to draw a project with your own hands.

Creating a plan consists of several steps, which include their own nuances:

1. Determining the size of the house and directly its scheme.
At this stage, it is important to take into account the features of the purpose of the premises and the functions that they will perform, as well as all the necessary systems (ventilation, heating, etc.). It is important that rooms with high humidity (kitchen, toilet, bathroom) are located next to each other.
2. Calculation of the amount of materials.
When calculating the consumption of material, you need to take into account the thickness of the tree, as well as its length. An ordinary beam is six meters high, so if the walls of the house are planned to be longer, they are joined along the length.
Many construction companies create projects for timber houses on order. When drawing up drawings, all rules are observed. A house built according to such schemes will be geometrically correct and earthquake resistant. Also on the Internet you can find many photos with examples ready schemes for timber houses.

Foundation laying

Foundation for wooden house must be very durable. When choosing the type of foundation, the following circumstances should be considered:
— soil characteristics;
- features of the design of the house;
- the magnitude of the load of the structure.
By the volume of lumber designed for the construction of a house, it is easy to calculate the load of the future structure.
Foundation options:
1. Shallowly recessed tape.
2. Deep recessed tape.
3. Columnar.
4. Pile.
Pile, as well as shallow foundations are considered more economical. But more popular is a shallowly buried strip foundation.

The foundation of such a foundation should be laid to a depth of 50 to 70 cm.

Laying the first crown

To high humidity did not disable the first crown, a buffer element should be created between it and the foundation. Such an element is a lining board impregnated with an antiseptic (50 mm thick), which is usually made of larch.

Before laying the board, the side of the base adjacent to it is covered with two layers of roofing material. A layer of waterproofing will provide a cut-off of moisture.

Wall mounting

Step-by-step laying out rows of timber is the construction of walls. Pins are used to prevent displacement. Rows of wood are attached to them. Tight corner connection is provided due to the presence of grooves and spikes.

They should be additionally insulated with tow or other sealant. Laying out the phalanges of the beam, the spikes and grooves alternate.
There are several methods for connecting beams at the corners:
- connection in a warm corner;
- connections in the bowl;
- connection in the paw.
On the video on the Internet, you can find and watch a detailed briefing on the corner connection of the beam.
In places where the installation of doors and windows is planned, the size of the beam is calculated, taking into account the size of the opening. All openings are weak points for walls. To make the wall stronger, some bars are laid clearly according to its size. When the assembly of the log house is completed and it settles, the excess material is cut out.

To increase strength and fire resistance, the walls are treated with special substances. To increase wind protection, all seams should be caulked (plugged). Many builders of their wooden cottages post a video on the Internet in which they step by step present the installation of a log house.

roof construction

The high probability of repairing the roof after the construction of the house is guaranteed by its complex geometry. Therefore, the roof construction technology should be simpler. Therefore, it is better to build a gable roof.

After the construction of the walls, ceiling logs are placed on them so that they protrude 50 cm beyond the wall. The gap between them should be equal to the width of the insulation used 60 cm or 90 cm.
Next comes assembly truss system. To strengthen the rafters, crossbars and racks are used. Then the fronts are sewn up. The lathing is carried out with a maximum step of 400 mm, and is attached to the rafters.

Finishing work

You can look at the video how houses made of timber look like, and how they are finished with all the nuances.

Floor arrangement

During the installation of log cabins, along the floor beams, a preliminary floor covering is created. The floor itself is installed in two steps:

1. Laying the floorboard.
2. Laying the subfloor.
The floor needs to be insulated, for this, they place between the boards of the subfloor mineral wool or other thermal insulation material.

For flooring, in addition to the floorboard, you can also use laminate, as well as other materials.

Ceiling arrangement.

To reduce heat loss at home, the ceiling must be insulated with at least 200 cm of insulation. It is placed between ceiling beams and protected with special vapor barrier and moisture protective films. The ceiling of wooden houses is sheathed with clapboard. Large beams, if desired, can not be sheathed, they will serve as decorative elements.

Interior and exterior decoration

Sometimes just painting the house is enough. This applies to those cases when a profiled beam was used.
While the house is being built with their own hands, a long time passes, and the quality of the wood surface changes characteristically. Therefore, the timber should be re-sanded before painting.
Communication networks are laid inside. In the photo on the Internet you can see the result finishing works in timber houses with a variety of design styles.

Window installation

In the places intended for windows, special openings (pigtail) are created. To do this, grooves are cut out, a bar is placed in them, preferably not back to back. It should be smaller in length, so that when the walls shrink, it is possible for the beam to fall. Thanks to this, the shrinkage goes smoothly, and at its end, windows are mounted.

Not required to install wooden windows maybe plastic.

Installation of doors and partitions

Doors are installed using the same technology as windows.
Install partitions, only after assembling the log house. If a two-story house with an area of ​​​​more than 60m2 is being built, then the first floor, which is not equipped with partitions, makes the building structure dangerous. For safety and strength, at least one partition is required.
In principle, building a house from a bar with your own hands is not at all difficult. You can watch video tutorials in which all the nuances of construction are considered step by step. The very technology of building a house is simple and if you follow it, then the built house will be durable for many years.

Video. A detailed film about the construction of houses from timber

Everyone dreams of their own home. However, often, when buying a ready-made house, you can purchase several unpleasant “surprises” with it, and it’s already difficult to remake it at your own discretion.

It is a completely different matter when a house is built from the very beginning to the end independently according to a personal project. The construction of a bath from a bar with your own hands is carried out in stages, just like at home, so you can consider it in the general case for these two buildings.

Construction stages

The whole process of building a bathhouse or a house from a bar or log consists of several successive stages:

• project preparation;
• preparation of terrain, materials and tools;
• building a foundation;
• floor erection;
• walling;
• floor and roof installation;
• windows, doors;
• interior and exterior decoration.

Preparation of the project, preparation of the site and materials

We can safely say that the preparation does not obey any standards. In this case, everyone is his own master, so there is no need to talk about some kind of technology or rules.

As for materials and tools, then on the contrary, everything is according to the standard. For each hotel point necessary materials will be considered separately. The same applies to tools.

Do-it-yourself timber house is gradually being built on a flat and prepared site. But it is necessary not only to level the site, but also to remove all unnecessary.

In rare cases, the preparation includes a very laborious process - replacing the soil layer. This is only necessary in cases where the soil has a very low coefficient of resistance.

Foundation construction

Three types of foundations are now known:

• columnar;
• tape;
• slab.

For a private house, a strip foundation is best suited.

It is more time consuming and expensive, but it has its advantages:

• has a huge bearing capacity, which allows not to make appropriate calculations;
• quite simple in its execution;

These two advantages allow you to get rid of many of the difficulties that a columnar foundation involves.

We will consider the technology of erecting a strip foundation.

To calculate the materials for the strip foundation, you can use the calculator:

This will require the following tool:

• shovel:
• a hammer;
• wood saw;
• a welding machine or a hook for knitting with steel wire, or a special knitting machine;
• mixing containers cement mortar and clean water tanks.

1. So, it all starts with marking on the ground. You can carry it out with the help of a rope and pegs, or simply by drawing lines on the ground. You can check the correctness of the markup using a tape measure.
2. It is only necessary to measure both diagonals in a rectangle - they must be the same. This will mean that the foundation is even.

1. Next, you need to dig a pit. He digs to the depth of laying the foundation, plus another 20-30 cm. The width should be 5-7 cm more than necessary.
2. I must say that if it is planned not to arrange the formwork for the foundation, then the width of the pit can be as wide as the casting part of the foundation itself should be.

Advice!
If a bathhouse is being built from a bar with your own hands in stages, then you can not do the formwork for the foundation, since it is being erected in order to give the tape an even shape, but in this case this is not required.

1. Only in the case when the tape rises above the ground, it is simply impossible to do without formwork.
2. So, the casting part of the foundation should have a width that will allow you to easily lay a beam or log on it. Often, only 15 cm is enough for this, but such a foundation can simply crack.
3. The minimum width of the casting part should be 25-30 cm.
4. After the trench is dug, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured on its bottom. The layer thickness is about 10-15 cm. Then the same layer of sand is poured. In this case, this layer is carefully compacted. Sand can be compacted with water.
5. Next, you can pour the foundation. For a bath, part of the trench can be filled with construction scrap, that is, pieces of broken slate, broken bricks, glass, and so on. Every 30-40 cm of such a layer is shed with a liquid solution.

1. The last approximately 50 cm are poured with clean concrete.
2. If the foundation is being built for the house, then it is better not only to make it completely from monolithic concrete, but also to reinforce it. For reinforcement, steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is used. Belts are made of wire, and a frame is made of belts.

Concrete is prepared according to the proportion:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts sand;
• 2 parts of crushed stone or gravel;
• water.

This ratio is only suitable for cement grade M500 and above.

If the formwork has not been erected, then after the trench is completely filled, it should be allowed to dry. This may take from a few days to 2-3 weeks.

After that, in any case, it is required to build a base. It can be made from red brick.

Smooth masonry can be easily done with your own hands using a plumb line or water level.

After the foundation has completely dried, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top. It can be represented by a layer of roofing material.

If the formwork was erected, then it is removed only after 3-4 days in normal weather, however, the foundation should not be exposed yet, since it will not have time to gain the required percentage of strength.

Floor erection

For this work, you will need the following materials:

• timber with a section of 100 by 50 mm;
• board with a thickness of about 25 mm;
• wood screws;
• dowels for beams;
• tow or moss.

It all starts with the erection of the first crown.

Advice!
The first crown must be laid as evenly as possible, since it is on it that all subsequent crowns will be laid.
In addition, the first crown must be impregnated with an anseptic, since it is most exposed to moisture from the soil.

Beams for walls should have a section of 150 by 150 mm. For lag and internal walls- 100 by 50 mm.

To make the junction of the beams, that is, the lag, you can use two methods of attaching the logs:

• in half a log;
• "dovetail" or "frying pan".

Fastening in the second way implies hitching in such a way that both beams are in the same horizontal plane.

This type of connection is shown in the following photo.

Connection "frying pan"

This method is the most optimal, although more laborious. To connect two beams together, you can use the "thorn" method. To do this, a spike is cut at the end of one beam, and a groove of the same size is cut at the end of the second beam.

Since sometimes the length of the lag is quite large, it is necessary to erect pillars under it. They can be made from brick and cement mortar.

It is worth saying that it is better to lay the beams for the log on the edge. Logs should be placed in increments of 40 to 100 cm, depending on the expected load.

After laying the logs, subfloor boards are stuffed on them. From below, on the logs, you can make a crate, and lay a heat insulator on it. For the subfloor, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are used.

After that, you can immediately lay a finishing coating on this subfloor, for example, grooved boards 28 by 36 mm.

Walling

The phased construction of a house from a bar with your own hands, the next step involves the construction of walls. This is done by successively erecting crowns of beams.

All beams can be fastened at the corners in the way “in half a log”, or “in a spike”, which were discussed a little higher.

It is worth saying a little about the profiled timber. It differs from the usual one in that it has ready-made grooves. Therefore, the stages of building a house from a profiled beam, and specifically, the process of building walls, are slightly different from the same work from a regular beam.

The difference is that a regular beam needs to be fastened every 2-3 crowns. This is done using . For them, a hole is drilled in the beams, which passes through several beams, for example, through two. A dowel is hammered into this hole, which can be either wooden or metal.

Otherwise, the stages of building a log house from profiled and ordinary timber are no different.

As for the internal walls, they should be erected simultaneously with the construction of the main walls.

Each subsequent crown should be laid on a layer of moss or tow.

Cover and roof

The ceiling is made of the same materials as the floor, that is, beams 100 by 50 mm are used as beams. The beams are laid in the same way as the logs.

They are sewn on top and bottom. A vapor barrier film is placed on the boards of the lower skin, and a heat insulator is laid on top. From above, the beams can also be sheathed with boards.

The rafter system is also made of 100 by 50 mm beams. Rafters are installed with the same frequency as the beams. The rafters must be attached to the beams.

From above, the truss system is sheathed with boards, which will act as a crate. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and roofing material is upstairs.

- planed timber (inexpensive, easy to use, has standard parameters; but, at the same time, it always requires thorough drying, does not differ in a perfectly even surface and geometrically exact same dimensions);

- profiled timber (has its own fastening system "thorn-groove" or wavy "comb"; but for perfect styling it is better to buy this type of timber with a margin - so it will be more likely that fasteners from different batches will fit together);

- glued laminated timber (ideal for building a house without construction experience, due to its small shrinkage, working with it allows you to simultaneously perform other construction tasks; but when purchasing this raw material, you need to monitor its quality, density and uniformity of the lamellas).

General tips for self-building a house from a bar.

1. The “gold standard” for timber is considered to be a section of 100x150 or 150x150 mm.

2. Tree annual rings should be evenly spaced along the entire length of the timber, preferably in its center.

3. Coniferous trees are the undisputed leaders among the suppliers of raw materials for future beams.

4. All beams used must be the same in length, width, curves, thickness, and so on.

First, we make drawings of the future home, make measurements on the ground and the corresponding calculations. You can sketch a project of a house from a bar yourself or turn to specialists. After creating the project, we determine the amount of the required material, purchase it, and we can begin direct work on the house.

Before choosing what type of foundation you will lay under the base of the house, you will need to answer questions such as:

- what features of the structure can affect the foundation?

- what type of soil prevails in your area and how far from the surface is groundwater?

It will also be necessary to take into account a number of desirable recommendations for arranging the foundation:

- if piles are involved in the process of work, then it is also recommended to use a grillage so that there are no gaps between the ground and the house;

- the lower crown should be located above the ground at a distance of at least 50 cm;

- if reinforcement is used for the construction of the foundation, then its knitting in places of strong bends is permissible only with the help of metal fasteners manually, but it is better not to use welding in this case - this can destroy the very structure of the material.

The most popular options for the foundation for a house made of timber are tape, shallow and pile. Tape is good for buildings with cellars and basements, shallow - for sandy soil, pile - for loose and all other types of soil.

The first crown is usually laid on additional boards to avoid possible moisture on the timber. These boards are impregnated with antiseptics and act as a kind of link between the foundation and lower crown. Under them, you can also lay waterproofing - this will provide decent protection from moisture from the surface of the earth.

Also, the first crown can be placed on the cross rails, immediately leaving small gaps between them for proper ventilation of the base. Because of this, this option is considered more rational.

An important point - when laying the crowns, you should constantly monitor the correct height of the structure, and using the building level - monitor the evenness of the laying of the timber and the entire surface as a whole.

The crowns are fastened together with special dowels, grooves or ridges, and corner joints are made in half a beam / in a bowl / paw / warm corner (optional). In addition, construction logs are cut into the first or second crown for laying the future floor. A sealant (for example, jute) must be laid between all the crowns.

At the same time, during the laying of the crowns, all seams and joints must be sealed, and the walls must be impregnated with fire protection solutions.

To create openings, you can try the following option - in the places of the planned doors and windows, the bars can be laid out shorter at the distance from each other into which your window or future door will fit. When using this technology, dowels should be mounted on both sides of the opening.

If this method seems too laborious to you, then cutting out suitable holes in a solid wall structure from a bar is another option, however, in this case, you will have extra building material that could initially be used with greater benefit. Although, on the other hand, the use of this method will make it possible to more accurately calculate the parameters of windows and doors, since cutting can be done at the stage of complete drying of the timber and acquiring the final appearance after shrinkage.

It is customary to do floors in timber houses in the same way as in any wooden building- in the form of decking on logs or special beams that serve as ceilings. We put a draft and finishing floor with additional thermal insulation and insulation. Flooring remains at the discretion and imagination of the owner, and the ceiling is already done at the finish line, in the complex for finishing work - it can be sheathed with siding, clapboard, and so on, or you can leave hanging beams and additional ceilings as decoration.

We take care of the roof.

If you don’t be smart, then it’s probably better not to find an ordinary gable roof option. This type of roof involves the rigid fastening of the rafters and the arrangement of additional frame gables. The roof itself can also be made of wood - it is assembled from bars on the ground, then lifted up and fixed in the form of a single bar. On top of such a rafter system, a crate is mounted, on which the direct material for the construction of the roof is attached - tiles, slate, ondulin, metal tiles.

During the final drying of the timber from which the house is built, the formation of cracks in the structure is almost inevitable, through which valuable heat will be lost. In this regard, it is better to caulk all seams, joints and alleged weak spots with jute.

It will also be useful to paint the walls of a house made of timber - in addition to external beauty, varnishes and paint will protect the tree from UV rays and precipitation. Before painting, of course, it would be useful to grind the entire surface of the walls.

But as for such popular finishing options as the use of siding, sandwich panels and the like, then, undoubtedly, it is worth considering - log houses for the most part are good on their own (see photo) and do not require additional decoration. The maximum that is allowed here is the use of varnishes and paints. However, this side of the issue always remains at the discretion of the owner of such a facility.

The minimum set of tools that you should have at hand:

- an ax and a hammer;

- nails, self-tapping screws, screws, dowels;

- jute or other heat-insulating material;

- electric screwdriver;

- perforator;

- building level and tape measure;

- electric drill and power saw.

About what else will be useful to know for building a house from a bar, we look at the video.

Natural wood is environmentally friendly and incredibly noble, so it is valued at all times, despite the fact that the construction market has been occupied by innovative materials. The construction of log houses for year-round or seasonal living has reached a qualitatively new level due to the huge number of advantages of the material, as well as improved methods of its processing and installation.

Such a dwelling has an attractive appearance, which is important, especially for people who value aesthetics in everything. What kind of material is this and what is needed to build a house from a bar, this instruction will tell.

Choice of wood type

Before you get acquainted with the design itself and find out the features of its installation, we suggest considering the characteristics of the types of wood used for these purposes. Currently, manufacturers prefer softwood:

• pine;
• fir;
• larch.

Distinctive properties of wood species

Very rarely, but still, in this segment there are also deciduous trees, for example, birch. It may mistakenly seem that coniferous materials are identical, but they have significant differences, and we cannot but mention them:

• spruce and fir are considered the most affordable;
• spruce allows you to achieve a uniform color, since such material is characterized by ideal uniformity;
• fir has very beautiful fibers, but unfortunately it is less short-lived. 2 years after the log house is ready, you will find that some of the fibers will begin to darken;
• country houses made of larch are the most practical, because such material is absolutely not afraid of a humid environment, it is durable, and this is precisely its advantages;
• birch timber is popular for a reason affordable price, but the quality here is also not high, which is not suitable for the construction of suburban dwellings, therefore, experts categorically advise against considering such wood, as well as fir, as a raw material, since here the cons clearly outweigh the pros.

Wood Moisture Meter - Needle Moisture Meter

Before proceeding with the assembly of the log house, you need to pay attention to the moisture content of the timber. Without checking its level, which should be within 23%, the material cannot be used. If you neglect this rule, after some time you may encounter severe cracking of the structure. Therefore, at the acceptance stage, we recommend purchasing or renting a moisture meter, with which you can easily measure the moisture content of the incoming timber.

Now the blanks are dried either naturally or with the help of drying chambers. In the first case, we are faced with a long process, so modern manufacturers prefer chamber drying. Such a process occurs quickly, but here the cost of paying for the energy carrier increases, the material becomes more expensive and this affects the final cost for the buyer.

Description and characteristics

A beam is a log with beveled edges, mostly square in section, which can have various section sizes. This configuration is full of advantages, and above all, it is the correspondence of the thickness along the entire length, which simplifies the finishing process of suburban buildings. Also here you can save on insulation. Wood acquires special properties after it has been processed. special impregnations, protecting from moisture, burning, as well as putrefactive processes.

Connection of elements

The connection of the bars can be carried out in various ways:

• thorn-groove;
• in half;
• butt;
• on dowels, etc.

The simplest bunch can be called “butt”, and it is with such a system that the products from which economy-class country log cabins are built are equipped. You can assemble it yourself easily and quickly, but you need to remember about the “cold” lock, which needs to be additionally insulated to prevent drafts and cold air masses from entering the living quarters.

Butt joint is the coldest, therefore requires additional insulation. Try to use a different type of joint.

Profiled timber

It has a special comb geometry of the joint, which makes the connection very tight and windproof. Now very often for year-round living they build structures from just such a material, because it has undeniable advantages in front of the usual bar.

Profiled timber is made from solid logs that are planed on all sides, have an ideal moisture level, and are of the same thickness along the entire length.

Pros and cons of profiled material

The advantages of this technology include:

• simple installation scheme;
• strictly verified dimensions of lumber, set by professional equipment;
• joints in the form of planting bowls and grooves prevent cracking of wood during year-round operation

glued construction

The production of products of this type consists in the use of lamellas glued together. In order for the finished product of modern industry to be durable and serve for a long time, the drying process is carefully controlled. The technological instruction for gluing individual segments involves the placement the best varieties wood in the outer part of the glued beam.

Between themselves, the bars are fastened with spikes and grooves, which is very practical and easy to implement. The technology for the construction of such houses is available even for inexperienced developers, so that everyone can do most of the work with their own hands. The finished structure is lightweight, the frame is resistant to decay, its elements do not crack and are not afraid of aggressive environmental manifestations.

Construction technology

Now the most popular are single-story log cabins, but you can choose any project for yourself, including several levels, it all depends on the wishes and capabilities of the developers. Consider step by step diagram construction of a country log house.

Foundation

First of all, you need to choose the type of foundation. It must be strong enough to reliably support the weight of the house with the roof. You can opt for - this is the most common and versatile option.

Strip foundation- the most popular type for a house made of timber

But if the soil on the site is loose, give preference, and the scheme for laying it looks like this:

• the marking of the site is carried out with the allocation of the boundaries of the future house;
• a trench is dug with a depth below the freezing point of the soil (at least 60 cm);
• the trench is supplied with a sand and gravel cushion, while each layer is rammed to squeeze air out of loose rocks;
• concrete mortar is poured.

The device of house structures

The first crown is laid on top. Its function can be performed by an ordinary roofing material laid on a foundation screed. Make sure that the roofing material is 35 - 40 cm wider than the finished base.

It is very important that all wooden elements are pre-treated with antiseptic agents, because even if you mount country houses made of heavy-duty wood, it may eventually lose its properties under the influence of external factors, which will lead to rotting of the material and, as a result, to deformation of the structure.

Features of the connection of the crowns

The strength of the timber walls is ensured by a special fastening method. The frame is assembled using the tenon-groove method. The starting board must be firmly fixed to the foundation, and it is laid both on the insulation and on the frame (crate) knocked down from the rails. The crowns are connected with each other by wooden or metal dowels.

Sealing of rows and insulation of joints with jute cloth and plait

All subsequent crowns are mounted on a seal that prevents condensation and mold infection. Thanks to the interventional sealant, the log house acquires additional strength and tightness.

Corner connections

Beam extension

From inexperience it may seem that the disadvantage log cabin consist in a mismatch between the length of their walls and the length of the log, but this is absolutely not a problem if you ensure high-quality joining of the seams. All that is needed in this case is to slightly shift each next joint, which will avoid the formation of a long continuous seam. This method is vaguely reminiscent of bandaging brickwork and it is quite simple to implement.

Roof and floors

Floor laying is also carried out according to the standard.

Flooring can be installed in several ways, but the most the best option are "floating" floors, because they do not create noise and vice versa, thanks to a special design they absorb extraneous sounds. We recommend that you read the article about.

Comparing the pros and cons of technology and the construction process itself, it is safe to say that the advantages here outweigh by a huge margin. If you do not have a ready-made cottage, but have a plot and a strong desire to have your own house, we advise you to opt for a log house.