Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed for many decades of operation. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If in the very first winter after construction a wall in a brick house freezes through, this means that the construction technology has been violated or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is required to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Consider how to insulate brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly perform the installation of thermal insulation.

How is the insulation of the internal brick walls of the house made? Features of the thermal insulation of the walls

Human life is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Bodies radiate heat Appliances. Moisture is released during breathing, in the process of cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not sufficiently insulated, condensation will form on them when the heated moist air cools. It will provoke the development of the fungus, and dark spots will appear on the surface of the walls and ceiling. Fungus spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or an allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are built, irreparably spoiling the finish.

Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating walls brick house from the inside, it is desirable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to place the heater?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise moisture condensation from steam cannot be avoided when warm air comes into contact with a cold front (dew point). Consider three types of brick walls:

• There is no heater. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in the winter months, dampens and collapses over time.
• The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, due to which the dew point shifts towards the room, to the inner surface of the building envelope. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the room.
• The insulation layer is laid from the side of the street. The wall does not freeze, so it remains dry and releases steam freely to the outside. It is important that a ventilation gap be provided between the insulation layer and the brickwork to remove moisture coming from the room.

Internal instead of external

Obviously, warming a brick house from the inside is not the best solution. However, you have to resort to it if:

• The building is an architectural monument, and it is forbidden to make changes to appearance facade.
• The walls of an apartment in a multi-storey building freeze through. According to current regulations, it is impossible to arbitrarily mount structures that change the appearance of the building.
• The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to carry out work on external wall insulation.
• The external masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it is a pity to cover it with a new finish, and in order to lay a new external layer of decorative brick after the installation of thermal insulation, additional serious financial investments are required.

The disadvantages of insulating internal walls include a decrease in the space of the room due to the fastening of the insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the heat-insulating "pie" is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to take into account that the insulation of the internal surfaces of the walls threatens condensation, which should not be allowed.

Ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order for the living room to breathe well and the air not to be excessively waterlogged, high-quality ventilation is necessary. It is easy to breathe in buildings with brick walls, as the material is vapor-permeable due to the porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under a layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, it is required to observe important rule- the vapor permeability should increase towards the outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating brick walls from the inside, you cannot use materials that pass steam better than the brick itself. Otherwise, this will lead to condensation on the structures. That is, sheathing a freezing wall with drywall will provoke a constant dampening of structures in the cold season.

Material selection criteria

In the process of choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to take into account the thermal insulation parameters of the material, as well as its vapor permeability. To protect freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

• Use a polymer heat insulator that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam, high-density foam plastic (loose material is vapor-permeable), penofol, sprayed polyurethane foam will help insulate the walls from the inside.
• Carry out the laying of mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) using high-quality hydro and vapor barrier. The fibrous heat insulator passes steam and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
• A thick layer of heat-insulating plaster is applied to the enclosing structures.

When deciding how best to insulate your brick house, consider the method of installing a heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do the insulation from the inside with your own hands. The exception is the spraying of polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Material properties and mounting technology

Let's figure out which insulation is better for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the heat-insulating properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

The internal insulation of brick walls with mineral wool boards has certain specifics due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator is required to be closed on both sides with a vapor barrier film, ensuring tightness in order to prevent heated moist air from contacting the building envelope.

Scheme of insulation of internal brick walls with mineral wool

Work progress:

• a vapor barrier film is attached to the wall (with an overlap on the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling), the joints of the rolled material are securely glued with adhesive tape;
• a vertical crate is mounted in increments slightly less than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells must correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• mineral wool boards are inserted into the cells;
• a vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed butt joints is attached on top;
• a counter-lattice is stuffed for fastening the skin from chipboard sheets, drywall or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Advantages modern material- in excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the crate contributes to the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of condensation zones.

The scheme of insulation of brick walls with polystyrene foam indoors
Consider how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside with extruded polystyrene foam:

• the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
• foamed polymer plates are glued onto the wall using mounting foam or foam adhesive - the elements are placed with a half-width shift to avoid long vertical seams;
• joints are filled mounting foam, after solidification, the excess is cut off.

The best option after these works may be gluing a reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. It is also possible to attach sections of a metal profile about 10 cm long with the help of dowels "fungi", on which drywall is then sewn. But the use of "fungi" violates the integrity of the heat-insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of polystyrene is its low cost, in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. The main drawback of the material is flammability with the release of toxic substances. As a heat insulator, you can use foam with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3. To insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, high-density material (about 50 kg / m 3) can be mounted using extruded polystyrene foam fastening technology, and more loose, permeable steam can be used as mineral wool. In this case, the joints between the elements of thermal insulation and the crate are sealed with mounting foam.

Scheme of wall insulation from the inside with foam

Penofol

The foamed polyethylene heat insulator can be foil coated on one side or on both sides. The material is characterized by a small thickness with high heat-insulating properties. Penofol 4 mm thick can replace mineral wool 80 mm thick. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool boards to increase the thermal insulation properties of the "pie", while reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead of a vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator into the crate.

It is possible to make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from one penofol. Laths with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create an air gap. With the help of brackets, horizontal strips of foam foam are mounted with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then a counter-lattice is stuffed for wall cladding for finishing. The foil layer reflects heat radiation, contributing to the preservation of heat in the house.

Spray foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam will help to make a warm wall without cold bridges. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer on the prepared surface using special equipment. If the calculated layer thickness exceeds 3–4 cm, it is recommended to mount a formwork crate, which will serve as the basis for attaching the cladding for finishing. The disadvantage of the material is the high cost of work.

Internal walls insulated with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls is a classic way of warming. it a good option if you don’t want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, since the plaster layer is “breathable”, like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and laboriousness of "wet" work - it will be necessary to plaster in several layers in order to achieve the required thickness of thermal protection.

Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, using different kinds materials, their advantages and disadvantages, it is easier to choose the appropriate option. If you plan to do the whole range of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because a violation of technology threatens with serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and gradual destruction brickwork. We must not forget that internal insulation requires the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation, which will remove excess moisture.

In private construction, brick is still very popular for building walls at home. Houses built of brick can be found almost everywhere. But, despite its excellent performance, such a house requires insulation. The issue of warming a brick house is especially acute today, when the cost of energy is quite high and you have to save every kilowatt of energy. The way out in this situation is to create a reliable thermal insulation of the house, which can reduce heat loss to a minimum. All work on the arrangement of thermal insulation can be done on your own, especially since there is nothing complicated in how to insulate a brick house.

The specifics of the insulation of a brick house

When planning to insulate a brick house, it must be remembered that house insulation is a whole range of works aimed at reducing heat loss through the roof, walls, floor and foundation. And in order to answer the question of how to properly insulate a brick house, you will first have to find out what kind of brick and what masonry the house is built from, consider the types of insulation of a brick house and decide on the materials for its insulation.

Features of brick walls

Unlike concrete or wooden walls, brick walls have a number characteristic features. Firstly, the walls can be made of solid or hollow brick. The thermal conductivity of a brick wall depends on this, the indicator of which is in the middle between wood 0.2 W / (m K) and concrete 1.5 W / (m K) and is 0.4 W / (m K). Secondly, masonry can be solid and with an air pocket (well masonry). Depending on what type of brick is used and what kind of masonry is made, the thickness of the walls changes, and with it the performance characteristics and the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Important! Above are the average thermal conductivity values. Depending on the type of wood and the materials used for the production of bricks and concrete, the thermal conductivity may fluctuate in one direction or another. So concrete with the addition of expanded clay has a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W / (m K), solid silicate brick 0.7 W / (m K), and pine 0.09 W / (m K). Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the walls of the house, it is important to know what they are made of and how thick they are.

Regarding the masonry method, it should be noted that with continuous masonry, the insulation is placed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall on one or two sides. In this case, the thickness of the layer directly depends on the thickness of the wall: the thicker the wall, the smaller the layer will be required. In the case of well masonry, the insulation is placed inside the wall, between the bricks. This approach is also called intra-wall insulation. It can provide additional thermal insulation through air gap between the outer and inner walls, and when using thermal insulation material can reduce heat loss by half.

Types of insulation

In total there are three types of insulation: external, internal, intra-wall. External insulation is the most popular and involves the placement of insulation outside the building. This approach will provide additional protection of the walls from various kinds of natural phenomena. Unfortunately, the external insulation of a brick house has its drawbacks - this is the seasonality of work and the rather high cost of materials. Internal insulation of the house, in addition to wall insulation, provides for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floors, attics and roofs. You can perform internal insulation at almost any time of the year. The third type is intra-wall insulation, it can be performed only at the stage of wall construction. Therefore, those who have purchased an already built house will not be able to perform this type of insulation.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

It is necessary to choose materials for warming a brick house with special care, paying attention to their characteristics. There are several reasons for this. First, some thermal insulation materials can only be used for interior decoration, some - only for outdoor. Secondly, the total weight and thickness of the insulating layer will depend on the density of the material and its thermal conductivity. Thirdly, its durability and ability to maintain its operational qualities depend on the resistance of the material to various kinds of negative influences. Fourth, than more natural material, all the better. Below are the main characteristics with a brief description of which you should pay special attention.

• Coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the less the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will be.
• Water absorption coefficient. As in the case of thermal conductivity, the smaller this figure, the better. The water absorption of a material indicates its resistance to moisture absorption.
• Density. In fact, this indicator displays the mass of thermal insulation. The higher it is, the heavier the material.
• Flammability class. In total there are four classes of flammability. Class G1 materials stop burning without a source of fire, so their use is more preferable in construction.
• Material durability. With this indicator, everything is simple. It indicates how long a given material will last without losing its performance characteristics.
• Steam capacity. The ability of the material to “breathe”, passing moist air through itself, will be most welcome for internal insulation of rooms, which will only increase comfortable accommodation in the house.
• Soundproofing ability. Some thermal insulation materials also have excellent soundproof properties, which allows you to significantly save on special soundproof materials.
• Environmental friendliness. This indicator indicates only the naturalness of the materials and will be useful for those who seek to make their home as safe as possible for living in it.
• Difficulty of installation. This indicator only affects the speed and ease of installation, which will be especially useful for beginners in the construction business.

In modern construction, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house is carried out with various materials. Below are the usual artificial materials and natural ones that are gaining popularity again:

• Mineral wool . Perhaps the most commonly used thermal insulation. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.041-0.044 W/(m.K) and its density is from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3. Of the shortcomings, high moisture absorption should be noted. More suitable for internal insulation.
• Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam). The second most popular material for insulation. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 - 0.037 W/(m.K), density 11 to 35 kg/m3. This material practically does not absorb moisture, but at the same time its vapor permeability is almost zero. In addition, it is brittle, flammable, and releases toxic substances when burned. Can be used both inside and outside the building.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.028 - 0.032 W / (m.K), density from 25 to 38 kg / m3. Unlike regular styrofoam, extruded styrofoam is more durable, but otherwise they are almost identical. Suitable for external and internal work.
• Expanded clay. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.10 to 0.18 W/(m.K), density 200 - 800 kg/m3. Pretty narrow range of applications. It is mainly added to concrete for the foundation or construction of a monolithic frame of the house. It can also be used for interior wall insulation.
• "Warm" plaster. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.065 W/(m.K), density 200 - 340 kg/m3. This material has quite a few advantages - sound insulation, vapor permeability, low water permeability, non-combustibility, and so on. But there are two significant drawbacks. The first - the maximum layer of such plaster should not exceed 50 mm, the second - a lot of weight, which entails the need for a reinforced foundation. But in general, it is an excellent insulation for both external and internal work.
• Cork heaters. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.045 - 0.06 W/(m.K), density 240 - 250 kg/m3. This natural material perfect for internal insulation due to its performance. The only serious disadvantage is the high degree of flammability. Best used for internal insulation.
• Ecowool or cellulose wadding. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.032 - 0.038 W/(m.K), density 30 - 75 kg/m3. The ecowool obtained as a result of cellulose processing perfectly absorbs moisture and does not tolerate mechanical loads well. Used only for internal insulation. It is usually used to insulate attics.

When starting to insulate an already built brick house, first of all, it is necessary to make a small project, indicating in it all the areas that require insulation with the materials used and their quantity. It should be remembered that for internal and external work are used various materials. If the house is under construction, then all necessary calculations are indicated in the project documentation and it remains only to purchase everything you need and start work.

As noted earlier, this type of insulation can be carried out only at the stage of wall construction. To do this, do the following:

1. first, we lay the outer wall, where every 5 rows of bricks we insert a metal pin made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm into the seam. We select the length of the pin in such a way as to drown it by 2 - 3 cm and the remaining part of the wire should be 2 - 3 cm more than the thickness of the heat-insulating material used;
2. as soon as an external wall with a height of 1 - 1.5 m has been erected, we begin installing the thermal insulation in place, resting the materials on the pins;
3. at the end, we lay the inner wall, after which we again raise the outer one. And so to the very top.

The method described above is suitable for materials produced in mats or plates, such as foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use expanded clay. To do this, you will have to erect both walls at once to a height of 1 - 1.5 m, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 cm between them and tying them together with metal pins in the seams of the masonry. Then we fall asleep inside expanded clay and continue the construction of walls. For this method of insulation, coarse expanded clay should be chosen. Since it has a lower density and, therefore, its total weight will be less.

Important! You can not be limited only to the intra-wall insulation of a brick house. The walls of such a house can be additionally insulated from the outside.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside

The external insulation of a brick house consists in the insulation of the walls, the basement and the outer walls of the foundation. The technology of warming a brick house from the outside consists in cleaning the walls of the building from construction debris and dirt for further fixing a multi-layer heat-insulating cake on them or arranging over bare walls hinged structure with thermal insulation placed inside. From materials, you can use foam, extruded polystyrene foam, "warm" plaster. In this case, one simple rule must be observed - the sequence of arrangement of materials for insulating the walls of a brick house from the outside should be such that the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer increases towards the outer edge.

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, you must do the following. Perform basic plastering of the walls to even out the main irregularities, then clean the surface of dirt and treat it with a primer. Then, in one of two ways, either with glue or with the help of “umbrella” facade dowels, we fix the sheets of thermal insulation to the wall.

If you chose the first method, then you need to apply glue to the surface of the sheet and press it firmly against the wall. We carry out work from the bottom up, placing the sheets gradually row by row. In this case, each next row is shifted relative to the previous one, placing the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this simple way, the stability of the entire structure is achieved. When fastening with facade dowels, we perform the same operations, with the difference that glue is applied pointwise in small portions to the surface of the sheet. Then, after gluing, we drill a hole in the wall through the sheet, into which we insert the dowel. The resulting surface is reinforced with a special mesh, plastered and finished with paint or decorative plaster.

Video: insulation of a brick house outside with foam

Another popular way of external wall insulation is to create ventilated facade. Creation works are as follows. The first thing to do is to place a layer of vapor barrier on the wall surface, then create and fix metal or metal anchors to the wall. wooden frame. After that, we place a heat-insulating material between the frame rails, on top of which we lay a layer of waterproofing. For a ventilated facade, basalt or mineral wool is most often used. We fix heat and waterproofing materials to the wall with the help of facade dowels with a wide hat already familiar to us. At the end, we install the outer skin of siding, porcelain stoneware or other material.

The simplest and most widely available option for external insulation is the use of "warm" plasters. The work consists in cleaning the walls of dirt, after which their surface is impregnated with a primer. Further fixed on the wall plaster mesh and lighthouses, on which "warm" plaster will be applied. After the plastered walls have dried, they can be finished with bark beetle decorative plaster, clinker tiles, decorative facade bricks, or simply painted.

The insulation of the foundation and basement of a brick house is carried out by analogy with the walls, with the only difference being that it is not customary to create a ventilated facade for the foundation or basement. Most often, insulation is performed with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, clinker tiles or “warm” plaster.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside

Heat loss through external walls is only a fraction of the total heat loss. Most of the heat escapes through the roof and floor of a brick house. Of course, for more reliable heat retention, you can insulate the walls from the inside, and this will require very little effort. Consider the internal insulation of a brick house as it is being built, starting from the floor and ending with the roof.

Floor insulation in a brick house

The floors in a brick house are best insulated even at the stage of its construction. It is also possible to make insulation in an already built house, but this is associated with increased labor costs. This is due to the need to dismantle and repair an existing wooden or concrete floor. Floor insulation is carried out using polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool or expanded clay. Separately, it is necessary to highlight the "warm floor" system, which, in combination with conventional heaters, will allow you to save heat and provide additional heating at home.

During the construction of a new house, insulation wooden floors is done as follows:

• creating a structure from a log and a draft floor from waterproof plywood, we lay a layer of waterproofing on top of them. Between the edges waterproofing material let overlap, and bring the edges along the perimeter up with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm;
• then we put a heater in the space between the lags. On top of the insulation, if desired, you can lay a layer of vapor barrier;
• the next will be a rough floor made of boards, on top of which the finishing floor and flooring are laid.

If the house has two or more floors, then the insulation of the floors of the upper floors will also be the insulation of the ceiling in a brick house. In fact, you will have to create a wooden floor on the logs with insulation inside on the second floor.

The creation of thermal insulation in an already built brick house begins with the disassembly and repair of a wooden floor. After that, if necessary, excavation of excess soil is carried out, backfilling of a new substrate of sand, crushed stone and their compaction. Finally, a lag structure and insulation are assembled according to the scheme described above.

If the wooden floor can still be dismantled with minimal labor, then the concrete floor will require a lot of effort and a lot of time to remove the old screed. Therefore, it is extremely important to carry out the insulation of concrete floors at the stage of building a house. The work itself is as follows:

• after creating and compacting a pillow of sand and gravel on the ground, we perform a rough screed, lay a layer of waterproofing on top;

Important! To reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, expanded clay should be added to it. Such concrete will have a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m·K) rather than the usual 1.5 W/(m·K).

• Next, lay the insulation. For concrete floors, foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used. In addition to these materials, others can be laid. The main thing is to choose a material with the highest strength and density of more than 160 kg / m3;
• a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of this multilayer cake and a finishing screed is poured, after which the finishing floor covering is laid.

Wall insulation from the inside of a brick house

In most cases, wall insulation inside a brick house is not performed, due to the presence of external thermal insulation. But sometimes internal insulation is still necessary. Especially when the insufficient thickness of the walls or the maximum layer of thermal insulation on the outside is not enough to keep the heat. To insulate brick walls from the inside, mineral and stone wool, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, cork or "warm" plaster.

The internal insulation of the walls of a brick house is as follows:

• clean the walls of dirt and impregnate them with a primer;
• using wooden bars or a metal profile, equip the frame and fix it to the wall. Frame racks are placed in increments of 40 cm or 60 cm;
• if necessary, cutting the thermal insulation to the width of the opening between the posts, we put it inside the resulting structure;
• from above we sheathe with drywall, plaster and apply the finish.

Important! Internal insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is highly undesirable due to the toxicity and flammability of these materials.

Insulation of the attic and roof of a brick house

In the question of how best to insulate a brick house, it is impossible to ignore such parts of the house as the roof and attic. After all, it is through them that up to 40% of the total heat loss can escape. This is due to the simple laws of physics, according to which warm air is lighter than cold air and therefore all the heat goes up. Therefore, in order to keep warm in a brick house, it is so important to insulate the roof and attic.

To insulate the attic, you must do the following:

• if you use floor beams as logs, you can build an already familiar wooden floor construction with insulation, but with minor changes;
• we cover the beams themselves and the space between them with a vapor barrier;
• then we fill the space between the beams with ecowool, mineral wool or basalt wool;
• from above, for ease of movement in the attic, we lay a draft floor of rough boards.

Important! To save operational properties thermal insulation of the attic and roof, it is necessary to equip high-quality ventilation of the under-roof space.

Insulation of the roof of the house is carried out as follows:

• over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure we lay between the rafters and fix the vapor barrier. We overlap the edges of the material with each other and glue it with adhesive tape;
• in the space between the rafters we lay heat-insulating material. It can be polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral or basalt wool, as well as any other insulation with low thermal conductivity and low density;
• on top we lay another layer of vapor barrier and, to maintain the insulation in place, we fix the crate in increments of 0.4 - 0.5 m.

Despite the large amount of work to create thermal insulation of a brick house, everything is quite simple. Perform insulation within the power of anyone who knows how to use the tool and has minimal experience construction works. In order for everything to be done correctly, it is necessary to adhere to SNiPs and the recommendations of specialists.

Energy saving programs are gaining popularity, and many are thinking about the best option for their home. How to insulate silicate brick? Which insulation options are better: outside or inside? What features of a brick should be considered when choosing a heater?

Insulation for home silicate brick must be selected based on the type of construction and type of masonry.

Wall insulation should begin with an examination of their features, the type of masonry that was used during construction. In order for the insulation of the house to meet all modern requirements, it is necessary to take into account the following parameters:

1. Brick shape. This indicator directly affects the thermal conductivity, on which the required level of insulation will depend.
2. Brick type. For example, for silicate brick m-150, a minimum insulating layer is sufficient.
3. Masonry type. The thickness of the wall and its need for insulation will depend on this indicator.

Expert advice! If the house has solid masonry, then it needs to be insulated inside and out, if hollow masonry is used, then the material is laid only inside the walls.

What insulation materials are available on the construction market

Today, a network of construction supermarkets offers a wide selection of materials for wall insulation made of silicate bricks. All of them have their own characteristics that you need to know and take into account in order for the insulation of the house to be of high quality and reliable.

1. Mineral wool.

Despite the fact that this material has been used for a long time, it has not lost its popularity. Buyers prefer it for:

• optimal price;
• ease of installation;
• light weight;
• environmental safety;
• long period of operation;
• the complete absence of a breeding ground for rodents, fungus and mold.

Among the shortcomings of the material are the following indicators:

• rapid absorption of moisture;
• ignites easily;
• does not retain its shape during deformation processes.

1. Styrofoam.

Many experts suggest insulating silicate brick with foam. Its coefficient of thermal conductivity is slightly lower than that of mineral wool. But among the advantages are the following:

• the material is resistant to moisture;
• easy to mount, no special tools required;
• a light weight;
• environmental Safety.

Polyfoam has special water-repellent properties.

If it was decided to insulate a house made of silicate brick with foam plastic, then you need to know that it ignites easily and releases toxic substances when burned. Many cases have been noted when ignition and spread of fire occurs instantly, and the owners manage to save only their lives.

Expert advice! Today, the construction market offers a new type of foam, which has improved performance and greater protection against fire.

1. Expanded clay.

This material can be used to insulate the house during the construction phase. It is added to cement mortar, which will be used when pouring the floor, plastering the walls. Expanded clay has a lot of advantages that make it in demand in the construction market:

• minimum weight;
• environmental Safety;
• mice do not gnaw it, fungus and mold do not develop in it;
• has high rates of heat and noise insulation;
• does not react with moisture, so it is ideal for bathroom, kitchen, toilet.

Among the main disadvantages can be called a high degree of dust emission.

1. Polyurethane foam.

It is increasingly recommended to insulate a house made of silicate bricks with polyurethane foam, since this material has the highest rates of thermal insulation and strength. The material itself can be used in the form of slabs or applied to the walls by spraying. Polyurethane foam involves additional finishing, preferably with fire-resistant mixtures.

The main disadvantage is the high cost.

1. Warm plaster.

This material provides the room with the highest thermal insulation performance. With the help of warm plaster, you can easily cover the sand-lime brick. Among the main advantages are the following:

• walls have high rates of heat, noise and sound insulation;
• the material is not subject to combustion;
• does not absorb moisture.

The main disadvantage that prevents the material from gaining popularity is the cost and methods of application to the walls. Warm plaster is applied using special automated equipment. Only a professional team has such systems, which will take a lot of money for work.

In addition, the maximum layer of plaster is up to 5 centimeters. The large mass of the layer that is applied to the wall requires the construction of a massive foundation or additional strengthening of an existing one.

1. Fiberglass.

This material has excellent characteristics and is recommended by many experts. The main thing that everyone needs to remember is that this material should be mounted only by professionals. It is toxic, therefore, if installed incorrectly, it can harm the health of not only the employee, but also everyone who will live in such a house.

1. Ecowool.

It is used only for internal insulation. The material has optimal thermal conductivity, while quickly absorbing moisture.

Insulation of the house from the outside

How to insulate a house made of silicate bricks, you need to decide in each case individually.

If the house has been built and is functioning for a long time, then the wall insulation will be external. This type will protect the structure of the house from precipitation, sudden changes in temperature, while the dew point will move closer to the insulation. Such insulation of the house makes it possible to increase the life of the entire building.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane, expanded polystyrene are suitable for external insulation. Silicate brick covered with insulation must be additionally plastered or covered with facade panels.

Before you insulate the house from the outside, you need to carry out horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. For these purposes, you can use hydroisol or roofing material. Unfortunately, the latter material does not have a long service life. The installed waterproofing layer should not be on the walls of the first floor.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeHkQ5_I8ME

How to insulate a house from the inside

For silicate brick, wall insulation from the inside is considered only in the most emergency cases. In addition to the fact that the usable area will be taken away from the room, when the walls are insulated from the inside, the dew point changes, it shifts inward. This causes condensation to form on the walls, which can only be removed after the installation of a productive ventilation system.

If it was decided to insulate the house from the inside, then it is necessary to use the material not only for the walls, but also on the ceiling, floor, and slopes. If such work is not performed, then places will appear in the house where freezing will appear.

When choosing a material for insulating silicate bricks from the inside, you must first of all pay attention to environmental safety indicators. All components, when heated, will be released into the room, which can harm human health.

When insulating a silicate brick from the inside, it is not necessary to use a vapor barrier.

It is enough to cover the material with plaster. If there is a need for additional fixation of the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh can be used.

When choosing a material for insulation, you should pay attention to the indicators fire safety. All walls inside the house are equipped with a large number of wires, various devices that can ignite.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Z2ZHcoUpY

Warming a house made of silicate brick is a necessary and important process that will help save the family's budget for heating, create coziness, comfort, and optimal temperature throughout the house. Only a conscious choice of material will ensure the desired result for each particular house.

silicate brick cheap material, but has poor thermal conductivity characteristics and reduced durability and reliability. It remains only to finish it with a modern high-quality heat insulator

Dmitry Belkin

Silicate brick wall. Thermal foam insulation outside

Description

A silicate brick wall was recently chosen because of its cheapness. However, the consumer qualities of silicate bricks are not very good. Silicate brick is dense, heavy, brittle, easily exposed to water, wind and frost. To be honest, I don't know why they still release it. If you need a strong load-bearing wall, you can always use blocks based on any concrete. If anyone knows about the advantages of silicate brick, I ask you to write and enlighten me about them. However, there are such walls, and there are many of them! So you should pay attention to such walls.

Styrofoam is taken as a heat insulator. In fact, in the case of a silicate brick wall, such a scheme is quite efficient. These two materials have approximately the same water vapor diffusion coefficient.

vapor barrier

Not required. If the inside is finished with drywall or plaster, then there will even be room for water vapor to be absorbed and, thereby, a kind of breathing walls will be created.

Difficulties/Dangers/Disadvantages

1. - the wall should be erected by specialists enough high level so you can't save money on it.
2. - the wall can be of small thickness (1.5 bricks).
3. - The foam layer should be at least 100 mm.
4. - The wall and the house as a whole turns out to be heavy, hence the special requirements for the foundation.
5. - Increases the cost of the wall cement, sand, delivery, work.

Here is an excerpt from a letter from a reader.

"I bought a box at home, lined with one and a half bricks with ordinary silicate brick. I think to insulate the outer wall with foam plastic according to the recommended technology - soil, insulation (100mm), reinforcing mesh, soil, putty ..."

In principle, I agree, but I give additional advice. Perform thermal insulation not with 100 mm thick slabs, but with 50 mm thick slabs, which are laid on top of each other very tightly with overlapping seams. That is, so that the seam of the first level of the foam must be completely covered by the second level of the foam, and there were no cases when the seam was located exactly above the seam of the lower layer. Glue the foam to each other with some special glue and fit the seams tightly. Apply glue pointwise, do not apply glue with a brush.

Brick is a traditional material for private construction. But unlike wood, it necessarily requires high-quality insulation. If this is not done, then life in the house is unlikely to be pleasant and comfortable, especially in cold weather.

Peculiarities

Insulation of a brick house is a large complex of works. It is not enough to perform them only on the walls of the facade, it will be necessary to carry out certain manipulations with the roof, the rest of the walls, the base and the floor. Be sure to take into account which particular type of brick was used, how the masonry was made, in which climatic region construction or repair is being carried out.

It will not work to insulate solid blocks from the outside with the same method that is suitable for parts with air cavities. The method of laying (inextricable or providing for an internal air gap) is also important.

When assessing thermal conductivity, one cannot focus only on tabular indicators that can be found on the Internet or in specialized literature. Technologies are changing rapidly, and each manufacturer is trying to put into circulation their own know-how, vary the recipe and processing modes. Therefore, you should focus only on official information from suppliers.

If it is planned to lay a brick in a continuous layer, the insulation can be placed on one side, and on both sides at once. Has its own subtleties and use facade panels, and intra-wall insulation of hollow masonry.

The best materials

The thermal conductivity coefficient is a decisive indicator for any thermal insulation material. It is equal to the thermal energy that passes through 100 cm of the coating in 60 minutes. If we proceed only from this parameter, then it is best to cover the brick wall with polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

But you need to take into account other nuances, because if the material holds heat well, this does not mean that it is suitable for all possible cases. It is very important to pay attention to the intensity of moisture absorption - depending on this indicator, no material can be compared with extruded polystyrene foam.

The same method of protection is also the most dense of all. If we take into account combustibility (at least class G1 - stop burning after the cessation of fire), then XPS and polystyrene are in approximately equal positions. It is not always possible to use expanded clay, it is only suitable for houses with well masonry.

Such thermal protection is created very simply, but over time it can become inhomogeneous, which negatively affects the performance. It is possible to use drywall for insulation only indoors, because manufacturers' statements about the resistance of some options to high humidity should not be taken seriously.

Using polystyrene, including foam, is relatively simple. Large plates are sometimes equipped with a tenon-groove system; they can be glued from the basement profile. Such a solution is suitable for siding, but few people will be satisfied with the level of permeability of the finishing layer for steam. If, nevertheless, there is a desire to choose just such heaters, it is worth equipping a full-fledged ventilated facade from above.

You can lay penoplex most different ways. A typical sheet has a width of 600 mm, a length of 1.2 or 2.4 m. In various modifications, the thickness of the sheet varies from 20 to 100 mm. Among all versions, the first place is deservedly occupied by the Facade modification, specially designed for finishing and thermal protection of capital external walls.

Some amateur builders choose to insulate brick walls with aerated concrete blocks. Such a measure is recommended if there is a suitable point of support, and the whole structure is thought out very well. It is worthwhile in advance, in the process of preparing the load-bearing wall, to put fiberglass reinforcement in the form of outlets.

It is not worth using expanded clay concrete for thermal protection of brick structures, since its thermal qualities are not good enough. It is justified to insulate a silicate brick wall with basalt wool just because it lasts a long time and is a completely natural solution. Instead of a loose or rolled version, it is best to take cotton slabs, they are considered the most reliable.

They began to insulate houses with granular foam glass back in the 1930s, but then it was very expensive and not very practical. The porosity of such a material obtained by modern technology, ranges from 80 to 95%. Coloring depends on what specific raw material was used. Despite the lightness, the resistance to compression of this material is very high, and the escape of heat to the outside is noticeably ahead of even wood.

The advantage of foam glass is excellent damping of external noise; but we must not forget that it is quite expensive and can be destroyed by mechanical action.

Characteristics

The standard thickness of insulation for brick walls is determined by the simplest formulas. It is better to focus on the heat resistance standard established for a particular region of the country. The second indispensable parameter for accurate calculation is the thermal resistance of the main bearing surfaces, and the third is the same, but for thermal protection.

A half-brick wall is taken equal to 12 cm, one brick - 24 cm, and for a three-layer structure, the calculation is carried out at a thickness of 0.8 m. A three-layer structure is a very rare and rather expensive option. The main part of the structures is made in one or one and a half bricks, and if there are less than three blocks, then insulation cannot be dispensed with throughout the entire post-Soviet territory. This rule also applies to the coast of the Black and Azov Seas.

A common mistake is to insulate the walls from the inside, it leads to the appearance of condensation and other negative phenomena. Under siding or a ventilated facade, most often mineral or glass wool is used with a density of at least 40 kg and 17 kg per 1 cubic meter. m., respectively. When it is planned to insulate the walls with decorative bricks, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation by adding mortar.

Whether the wall after finishing with insulation will be permeable to water vapor or not depends on the personal preferences of the owners. An exception is made only for the steam room, where the release of fumes to the outside is mandatory.

Which to choose?

After reviewing the basic information on insulation materials, it is easy to understand that their choice cannot be dictated solely by financial considerations. An attempt to save money on insulation only results in an additional expense during the operation of the building. It should be noted that depending on the chosen option, the following changes:

• the composition of the desired hand tool;
• types of machinery used;
• list of components;
• work sequence;
• foundation execution.

A very light base will easily withstand the load created by the foamed polymer, but if ceramic granules are used, it will already be unreliable. It is also required to pay attention to whether an external decorative trim or the details of thermal protection themselves will turn out to be quite attractive in execution.

If you need to install siding, facing bricks or plaster, then you will need more adhesives, fasteners, geotextiles, and so on. This circumstance will significantly complicate the work. Care should be taken to separate materials for internal and external insulation.

In the second case, the requirements for environmental safety are much less, but the danger of the destructive effects of moisture and wind increases. External heaters are preferred for another reason: they allow you to leave all bearing wall in the area of ​​positive temperatures and completely exclude its freezing.

The use of internal insulation materials becomes mandatory in the following cases:

• according to the decision of the state supervision bodies, you can only do so;
• immediately behind the wall there is an unheated technical room (this is irrelevant for the facade of the house);
• very severe frosts are likely, which require the most intensive protection of the habitable space.

Mineral wool, being not bad in itself, is quickly saturated with water. Therefore, it will be necessary to cover it from the outside with waterproof films. If you want to make the “cake” as thin as possible, you should pay attention to extruded polymer mixtures, because they are almost impervious to moisture and are characterized by increased strength. When assessing combustibility, it is recommended to compare the actual performance of the material with the requirements established by the fire department.

The advantage of roll and sheet coatings over liquid options is that they can be easily mounted even by non-professionals who do not have a specialized tool.

Actual technologies

by the most best solution will not look for a suitable option among all possible approaches to insulation in principle, but will focus on modern methods. They fully meet all the requirements of the standards and, in addition, have absorbed the concentrated centuries-old experience. There are two key areas that are most in demand now:

• sandwich format. Fully finished walls a frame (made of wood or metal) is mounted, into which a heater is inserted. Outside, a decorative material is applied to the frame. The advantage of this method lies in its high strength and reliability, but the foundation of the building must also be strong and solid.
• "Wet façade". The insulation is glued with special mixtures, then it is covered with a reinforcing mesh and finishing. It is worth paying attention that polystyrene foam will be correctly mounted as a substrate for vinyl siding and other finishing materials.

The fastening method when choosing a “wet facade” is approximately the same as when working with foam, namely:

• the first step is to clean the walls from dirt, dust and plaster;
• large cracks are covered with putty, and the surface as a whole should be covered with a primer layer;
• a starting profile is placed, it is fixed around the perimeter with dowel-nails. Be sure to check the horizontal lines with a building level;
• in addition to gluing polystyrene foam, sometimes it is attached with anchors or special pastes;
• fastening in the central part of the panels with dowel-nails increases the rigidity of the structure;
• it is required to seal the joints of the plates with mounting foam, and take the reinforcing mesh one that is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.

If well masonry is being made, roll materials can be used to waterproof it from the inside. The actual insulation is carried out by filling in special reagents - lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay and some others. It is required to tamp the material every 50 cm.

Much attention should be paid to the insulation of the corners, while achieving the effect of a thermos. It is recommended to carefully study the chemical composition of the coating to be mounted or the mixture to be poured inside in order to be completely confident in their safety and reliability.

How to do self-assembly?

Calculations

Even the most modern methods of brick wall insulation are available to ordinary people. The main condition for their use is an accurate and competent design calculation. Only it allows you to simultaneously guarantee the retention of heat inside and the minimum cost of work. The simplest and most effective solution in many cases is wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam. Calculating the required indicators is quite simple.

For example, the wall is lined with solid bricks 30 cm thick each. The heat transfer resistance is determined by dividing this thickness by the thermal conductivity of the material. It turns out the difference between the normatively prescribed and real thermal resistance.

Now you need to multiply this difference by the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation. The calculated result must, if necessary, be rounded up to an integer value (since roll and plate thermal protection is produced in multiples of 1 cm thick).

When several layers are used at once, their energy characteristics must be added together to avoid error.

The insulation of the end wall in a house or apartment also has its own subtleties. In apartment buildings, such manipulation is rarely carried out outside, since it is very expensive and impractical. This must be preceded by a thorough search for possible cold bridges. As in other cases, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene, polystyrene or basalt-based materials.

Sequence of work

Ceramic brick not only insulates the facade, but also looks attractive and serves reliably. But this is carried out only on condition that the masonry is made according to the rules, its seams are completely even and not dirty. The presence of the slightest cracks or stains of mortar on the blocks is unacceptable. The mixture for fixing the masonry is formed with M-400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3.

It is worth paying attention that river sand cannot be taken, because it leads to rapid shrinkage of the solution, if a plasticizer is not added. It is not at all necessary to create a classic gray seam: complete with facing brick willingly sell a wide variety of pigments.

The first step in the work will be the preparation of waterproofing. For her, they take either roofing material, or thick polyethylene. Start laying from the corners, leaving an air gap to the main wall (40–50 mm). The prepared mortar should be relatively dense, but not too heavy to work with a trowel. A metal bar with a cross section of 8x8 to 12x12 mm is placed on the front edges of the masonry.

Next to it, the solution should be flush, and on the back side - about 1 cm higher. Similarly, a vertical seam is created. All strips will need to be rubbed with a small brush after 120–180 minutes, to block the holes or burrs found. Then the ingress of water from the external environment will be excluded.