How to insulate a wooden house from the inside as efficiently and durable as possible. Warming a wooden house: advice from professionals Warming a wooden house inside with your own hands

Warming wooden house using from the inside is also a necessary set of measures in order to increase the level of comfort when living in it.

When insulating the roof, ceiling, attic and floor, in most cases one technology is used. In this case, thermal insulation can be provided with mineral wool or foam.

1 Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside

Before you start warming the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with foam or mineral wool.

Before this wooden surfaces country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed treatment with a special insect repellent emulsion. All insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:

• Caulking of cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof, as with;
• Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
• Lathing installation;
• Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of a country house;
• creations ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
• Internal finishing works for the preparation of beams, ceilings and roofs.

In addition, at internal insulation the walls of a wooden country house made of timber with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of a country house are made using timber, and the technology involves wiring surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative casings. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all the existing cracks.

Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the walls of the attic, but also in the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when a house is built using a beam, the floor, attic walls and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building is put into operation. .

In the case when people immediately began to live in a house with a timber, drying the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.

Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made of timber with your own hands, in most cases, jute fiber is used.

After that, you should proceed to the insulation of the walls with foam or minata. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with foam plastic with your own hands.

2 Creating a vapor barrier

When insulating a wooden house with your own hands, an extremely important point is the creation of a vapor barrier inside the walls of the attic.

This is because the space inside wooden base The attic wall consists of those bars that are locked between two heat insulators.

In this case, the humidity level in the rooms will certainly increase, which will lead to the appearance of a "thermos effect" in the space from the ceiling to the roof.

This will lead to the fact that the entire structure will stop "breathing". Excess moisture is eliminated by ventilation.

The main thing is not to allow the tree to become damp, while slow decay of the entire structure may begin. To avoid this, before starting the installation of a heat insulator, the entire surface of the wall to be insulated must be equipped with a vapor-water-proofing film.

When implementing installation work as in the case of creation associated with the crate on the bearing walls made using timber, an additional metal profile is installed.

This is especially true when finishing and vapor barrier will be made with the participation of moisture-resistant drywall.

After that, a strip of mineral wool is located inside, in the space between the bars. And its layers will join the base of the wall with the help of anchors equipped with enlarged round caps. A second layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation.

2.1 Creation of ventilation insulation of walls with foam plastic

A well-designed ventilation system should not have direct outdoor hoods in its communications.

The most suitable option is to combine the system into one circuit through the communications of the ceiling and the attic.

This is done through ventilation ducts. Any axial fan with a low or medium power rating can be used as a supercharger.

When activating the ventilation system using winter time of the year for half an hour, you can influence the parameter of optimal air humidity.

Inside, the second layer of vapor barrier film is attached to the bars with staples of a construction stapler. After the bar is installed, it should be sheathed with a clapboard made of wood.

This will give the room a certain degree of aesthetic appeal and insulate its contour. In addition, it is desirable to finish the room inside with a vertically located planken.

In addition, the walls can be insulated from the inside with foam. It makes sense to start installation work with the selection suitable sizes sheets. They can be much thinner than with the behavior of external insulation work. Styrofoam is different:

• Simplicity and ease of installation;
• Low degree of thermal conductivity;
• High soundproofing characteristics;
• Long operational period.

When the internal walls of a wooden house are insulated with such material as penofol, convection and significant heat loss through the cracks will stop forever due to the fact that the caulking was produced poorly.

If the timber will have a relatively small thickness, then frost formation will not be observed in the corners and on the walls of the house in the winter season. When using foam, the space of the room from floor to ceiling will warm up quickly enough.

2.2 Floor insulation

In addition to a set of obvious advantages, in the event that the wooden floor is insulated, the level of heat loss in the house will significantly (up to 20 percent) decrease. That's an example.

The most simple and sufficient effective method floor insulation is associated with the use of mineral wool as a heater.

The technology of insulation using mineral wool is quite simple and not expensive. Particularly relevant is the insulation of the floor with mineral wool in the case when it is mounted directly on the surface of the soil.

The choice of a type of heat insulator directly correlates with the features of the arrangement of the floor. So, if the installed insulation will not be subjected to regular technical loads, it is recommended to opt for a mineral wool with a density of 50 kg / m3.

If the load on the slabs is carried out with a periodic frequency, then the limiting density of the min-slab can reach 160 kg / m3.

In this case, the material is not mounted with fasteners, but is laid freely. Another option for warming a wooden floor is associated with the use of foam.

First you will need to dismantle the old coating. After that, you need to take care of installing a waterproofing layer.

For this purpose, polyethylene can be used. After that, you can start applying penoplex, which is characterized by low hygroscopicity.

In some cases, it is possible to insulate the floor of a wooden house using foam boards. You can use for this one of its varieties - expanded polystyrene, which is a fairly relevant heat-insulating material.

The whole process begins with the fact that a gravel cushion is formed on the ground, the thickness of which can reach 30-40 centimeters. This layer is thoroughly compacted, after which cleaned sand is poured on top with a layer of 10 centimeters.

2.3 Ceiling insulation

Currently, despite the colossal abundance of insulation materials in the modern construction market, a large number of homeowners prefer to insulate the floors in a wooden house the old fashioned way - with sawdust.

This method is primarily characterized by its high environmental friendliness parameter and relative cheapness.

However, the work associated with the presented material is quite troublesome. In addition, this method requires some preliminary preparation.

For example, sawdust must be carefully treated with an antiseptic before starting insulation in order to avoid the appearance of mold.

Sawdust should also be sprayed with a flame retardant in order to improve their fire-resistant qualities, as with. Before backfilling, this material must undergo a long drying.

And in order to prevent rodents from climbing into the insulation, it must be diluted with fluffy lime. This mixture must be poured into the voids formed.

Moreover, its layer can reach a height of 20 centimeters. For floor insulation, modern materials such as mineral wool, polyplex, expanded clay and foil-type polyethylene foam can be used.

It is not bad to use such alternative heaters as glassine. It can cover foam boards.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside - layout of materials

When choosing a particular material Special attention is given to the financial capabilities of the owner of a wooden house. Based on this, you should decide on the price segment in which this or that heater is located.

2.4 How to insulate a wooden house from a bar? (video)

Despite the development modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in holiday villages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main issues in the construction of such a house becomes proper organization of wall insulation.

Made with high quality, using the best materials, in accordance with the regulations, thermal insulation helps to maintain the optimal temperature in the house in the summer, and with the onset of a long, harsh Russian winter.

As is known wood is highly susceptible to mold growth and service life wooden structure directly depends on the degree of safety of structural elements. With the onset of winter, the first frosts, the heating season begins.

We strive to ensure a comfortable indoor temperature, and meanwhile logs and wooden beams, of which the walls are composed, are subjected to the most real test. Warm on one side, they are in contact with cold outdoor air on the other, and the result of this is the ever-forming, wood-damaging condensate.

The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and to keep important elements in the structure in good condition.

Conventionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:

• walls of a wooden house;
• house wall insulation.

There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain method of insulation is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technologies and proper execution of work, choosing the appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is, in fact, on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will insulation be carried out, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of retaining heat and benefits for the entire structure.

Owners and owners resort to insulation from the inside wooden houses, who do not want to close the unique, beautiful facades of the building, made in original ways masonry, or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, while the appearance of the building will not change.

External insulation

The purpose of external insulation is maximum efficiency . It involves the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of the load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and the surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains a fairly common phenomenon, often used in construction and repair. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

• all temperature fluctuations all the vagaries of the weather take on a layer of insulation and finishes, respectively, the service life of the wooden elements of the house is significantly increased;
• the ability to insulate a long-built house. Often, such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots, and it is financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house .;
• the interior of the house remains intact, which is convenient in terms of living and organizing life;
• the opportunity to choose a new look for the house due to the finish

pie wall

In other words - composition and sequence of all elements of insulation. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called "pie" can be represented as follows:

• bearing wall;
• crate;
• insulation - mineral wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• finishing layer.

wall pie

What heater to choose?

When choosing a heater for the walls of the house, first of all should be paid attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while keeping warm.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Of the materials for insulation can be distinguished:

• interventional heaters used at the construction stage;
• and heaters used for insulation from the outside or inside.

The interventional insulation is used in the laying of the interventional joints. Such heaters are synthetic and natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are linen and jute fiber insulation.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or from the inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80 -120 kg / m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam as an element of the pie, since these materials are vapor and moisture resistant and prevent air exchange between the house and the external environment.

Materials such as:

Mineral wool - best option insulation

Sealing seams and joints of forming elements

This method is an internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient in that it is easy to do with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not prevent steam from escaping and is the most cost-effective.

Technically carried out as follows:

• the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
• cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
• a layer of sealant is applied on top;
• the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
• sealant residues are removed with a rag.

Sealant

Seam sealing with fabric

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the crate, it should be repelled from the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be the same. The most commonly chosen beam 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

The crate is mounted transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for tight entry. The height of the crate is individual for individual rooms.

In parallel with the laying of logs, a crate is also similarly mounted (the so-called "counter-lattice"). For installation of the crate, you should choose quality material without traces of decay. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing, as it simultaneously serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.

crate

Do-it-yourself wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house with mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

Such material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is able to accumulate water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor barriers are required.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the crate made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm.. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - best of all foil, or plumbing tape.

Step by step installation:

• the required number of mineral wool mats is prepared, based on the calculations of the quadrature of the walls of the premises;
• mineral wool is tightly inserted between the battens of the crate;
• top mats are cut to height;
• gaps and seams between mats are glued with mounting tape.

Some builders use polystyrene foam when insulating walls indoors. However, the main selection criterion in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, the foam plastic does not have the property of passing steam, and the result of its use in the absence proper organization steam and hydro- insulation, will become the so-called " Greenhouse effect» and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with similar walls.

Mineral wool installation

Insulation installation

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

Warming of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the closest to bearing walls layer of a special film, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from wetting and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of highlights in wall insulation.

waterproofing membrane

In the process of work, anti-condensate membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymeric multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped, and nailed with a stapler and staples, and the seams are glued with mounting tape.

Vapor barrier is a finishing coating that is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the structure of the insulation.

Fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

vapor barrier

Conclusion

Thus responsibly organized wall insulation log house can play a big role for the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss, as well as protect the load-bearing elements of the structure from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. How well it will be carried out depends on the life of your home.

Useful video

Tips for warming a wooden house from the inside:

In contact with

Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for more good example you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the light weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation, stone wool is placed in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.

Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:

• dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
• wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budget types insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.

polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.

Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

The key to a quality repair is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. For this, flax fiber is suitable, soft look Fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials.

House insulation with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under a layer of exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

thermal insulation frame house starts with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next you need to close the gaps mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that you need to mount reinforced mesh. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a finishing layer can be applied with decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses made of timber should be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. Above wooden frame we nail the slats, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: home insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing of the external walls will be done. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming the house with mineral wool: video

Building science recommends doing external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation in rooms, moisture will not condense on the walls.

However, there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only right decision. For example, if the owner of the house wants to keep a beautiful appearance, characteristic of log houses or laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations. This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The thermotechnical calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point must never be internal walls and even more so in the insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it will be constantly damp. And from dampness, porous heaters get wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted living creatures are massively bred.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room even in the coldest period, you can confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - nothing!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

1. Firstly, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
2. Secondly, these materials must meet the requirements fire safety for premises.
3. Thirdly, the material alone or in combination with the mounting structure must provide the required mechanical strength.
4. And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not release any chemicals into the surrounding air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways to insulate a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several types of them are used:

1. Mineral basalt wool slabs- are most commonly used. This material does not burn, environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of a building envelope, and high hygroscopicity obliges to cover mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
2. Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), have also found application in internal insulation. Their use is not recommended, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1, can be used. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
3. glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which should additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, so the installation is carried out only in the means of protecting the skin and respiratory organs. Requires building envelopes.
4. Isoplat- modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed linen fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. The thermal conductivity of Isoplat is worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
5. Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed on the surface - a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Enclosing structures for such insulation are needed.

In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, settles down for quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on in the house, there is an intensive drying of the wood, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or glued beam. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be ruthlessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation for warming a house is sealing joints.

Fire bioprotection of wood

The inner part of the walls during insulation will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for quite a long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time eliminate the development of living creatures and make it difficult to ignite. It’s not worth saving on this, you need to choose only good compositions that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compounds, it should be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Thermal insulation and ventilation

Why didn’t they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern Construction Materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove the exhaust.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap, through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such intervals are realized in practice very easily. Attached to the walls with a certain gap wooden lath about 2.5 cm thick, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents high humidity interior walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built of logs cylindrical shape, then the ventilation gaps are obtained in a natural way, and if from glued laminated timber, then the ventilation gap device is highly desirable.

vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, pressless polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The film must be sufficiently stretched so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two panels of vapor barrier is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using adhesive tape and a stapler.

If the interior of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often, it is made from a wooden square bar with a cross section of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance must be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to process all the bars with a fire-retardant composition. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to previously mounted rails. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in holes previously drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as a building envelope, which are attached to the walls on direct suspensions. This should only be done when finishing drywall will be used, and in all other cases it is better to use wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall. When insulating the floor yourself wooden logs, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from the bottom up, and rolled, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid at random, which makes it possible for them to hold securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool with special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed on top with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at 1 meter intervals. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloping roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fastened with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto adjacent bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will securely hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with mounting foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is cut with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the thermal insulation was made with porous materials that can absorb water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation is equal to the humidity in the room.

The breathable film has two sides: one is smooth and the other is rough, through which water vapor escapes. The rough side of such a film is laid to the insulation and fastened with a stapler to the building envelope. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with adhesive tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of warming there will be installation finish coat, which may be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

1. Wall insulation inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
2. Before installation internal thermal insulation needs to be thermotechnical calculations, showing the position of the dew point in the cold period. Tochna dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
3. As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
4. Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often cross the century boundary. But sooner or later, the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house from the outside becomes a necessary measure, since, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold enters the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and it will pay off in the first winter.

Having spent the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before you buy the material and get to work, you need to find out which of the modern heaters better fit for wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulating wooden buildings from the outside are expanded polystyrene in panels and mineral wool of various types, made in the form of mats or rolls. But apart from them, last years sprayed insulation compounds are increasingly being used, such as penoizol or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. He has good performance characteristics, allows significant savings on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m in size, with a density of 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulating outdoor work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg /m³ and thickness from 50mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density expanded polystyrene is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has a low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees the long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fix on the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet, and almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam has its own significant disadvantages:

• low mechanical strength - the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and a decorative coating;
• ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances dangerous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-combustible, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for warming wooden buildings.
• if you plan to fix the boards with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with polystyrene foam, as some substances destroy this material.

Styrofoam rating for facade

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Characteristic:

• quantity in the package 10 pcs;
• dimensions 100×120 cm;
• thickness 100 mm;
• the area of ​​one sheet is 1.2 m²;
• area in the package 12 m²;
• applied
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W/(m⋅K).

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

• quantity in the package 7 pcs;
• dimensions 118×60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• the area of ​​one sheet is 0.7 m²;
• area in the package 4.9 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• grooved plate;
• minimum operating temperature -50 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C.

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristics:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity in a package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• the area of ​​one sheet is 0.7 m²;
• area in the package 5.6 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• scope: for a floor, for walls, for overlappings, for a roof;
• grooved plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity in a package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 240×60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• the area of ​​one sheet is 1.4 m²;
• area in the package 11.2 m²;
• for external works;
• scope: for a floor, for a roof;
• grooved plate;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per pack 20 pcs;
• dimensions 120×60 cm;
• thickness 20 mm;
• the area of ​​one sheet is 0.7 m²;
• area in the package 14 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• minimum operating temperature -70 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the crate or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built of timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it's easier to get by with glue.

1. Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out different ways- this is plugging cracks with tow treated with lime or sealing modern materials such as sealant or construction foam.
2. Thereafter wooden surface must be processed - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
3. When the antiseptic dries, you can proceed with the installation of insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
4. Installation of insulation begins at the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

• The slabs are smeared with a solution of special building glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

• After removing the first row, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

• After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with the help of “fungi” fasteners. Each plate must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. Fasteners should have a leg length several centimeters longer than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" must be chosen with a leg of 100 mm. When clogging, the cap should enter the styrofoam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the mount - "fungus"

• When all the insulation is installed, you can begin to reinforce the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass sickle mesh.

• At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a grid fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

• A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the adhesive mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they pass it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
• When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall must be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to fix the lining. But on plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions, how to, from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Why you should insulate your home

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it has been tested by time, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers fastened together special formulations. Three different types mineral wool, and they differ in the basic material of manufacture - this stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - this is moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

slag wool

This material is made from blast-furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing a heater for the facade, this option should be immediately abandoned, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture on it can lead to mold inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to the metal profile, an oxidative reaction may occur, since slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass mass, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it has a small weight and good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, packages do not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the bars of the crate.

The disadvantage is that during its installation it is necessary to carefully protect the eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on the tissues, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Due to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool - the material is practically without flaws

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose the material of the brand PZH-175 - this is a rigid plate, or PZH-200, which means increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

• Installation of a mineral wool insulation layer is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
• In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which a slab or roll insulation is fixed.

• In order to achieve best effect insulation and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
• It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

• There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose - the owner of the house decides, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
• After installing the battens, between them, starting with bottom row, lay insulation mats. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

• In the event that roll material is used, laying starts from the top, securing the upper edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fixing elements will be installed later.
• Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with brackets. Sometimes it is laid only on a heater, but the first option is preferable.

• Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed with “fungi” to the wall.
• Fastened over the crate decorative trim- it can be siding or lining. The rules for the installation of such a finish are considered separately, in other publications.

Mounted on top of the frame decorative coating- siding, block house or other materials

• If the crate is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It happens otherwise - with two layers of insulation. First, the first crate is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, the second crate is mounted along the bars, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid heaters that are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such a heater, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures for many years.

Modern way thermal insulation - polyurethane foam spraying

However, this spraying method is rarely used, as it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. Nevertheless, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after more short term. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influence.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

• excellent adhesion during application;
• lack of fasteners;
• the material penetrates into all small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from entering the building;
• compatibility with any materials;
• the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
• the coating does not require repair and renewal for many years;
• mold does not appear on it and rodents do not damage it.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed onto its surface, with what thickness it is planned to arrange a spray layer - this will become a kind of beacon. Protruding frozen sections of the foam will be cut off along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master with the help of a pneumatic gun sprays the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. Setting and the beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the desired effects of heat and sound insulation, the coating should be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For application outside, we use "Ecothermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane on wooden walls from the inside of the house. The process of spraying from the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is ecowool spraying.

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When applying the material to the surface, it fills all the holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, which do not allow any forms of biological life to breed in its thickness.

important positive quality ecowool for a wooden building is his heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the right size is fixed on it - it will regulate the thickness of the spray. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that not completely frozen material does not slide out from under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on the walls, a special installation is required, in the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and through a special pressure gun it is applied to the surface. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic features of the region of residence.

Knowing the right thickness of insulation is important. An excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow you to create comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is, what total resistance to heat transfer of a sandwich wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a particular climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values ​​are plotted on the map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also interior decoration(if it exists and is it planned, a layer of thermal insulation and exterior finish facade (important - external decoration, made according to the principle of a ventilated facade, is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (beam or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) can be somewhat smaller than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to this when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the rooms are left unsheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - A layer of thermal insulation - it is precisely its thickness that must be determined.

The design may have several layers. So, if a sheathing is provided outside without a ventilated gap, close to the thaw material (for example, using a natural board or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor-permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - frame details ( battens).

6 - siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Here is such a finish, as already mentioned, no matter what material it would be made of, it will not make any tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, it is required to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn = Hn / λn

• hn is the thickness of a particular layer.
• λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

• Well- the thickness of the insulation.
• λу- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find coefficients for various materials it is easy in the reference literature - a lot of it is posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.