The better to feed onions in the spring. How to feed onions to be large: types of fertilizers, useful recommendations. Features of feeding onions: how to feed onions, how and when to fertilize

Growing onions from sets open ground also involves weeding from weeds throughout the summer, with a frequency of once every 1-2 weeks. Removing weeds is very important, as they create excess moisture and increase the risk of fungal diseases. If weeding is not followed, the bulbs become very wet and will not be able to withstand long-term storage. Weeds begin to be removed at a height of 3-5 cm. Onions are watered once a week at a rate of up to 12 liters of water per 1 sq.m., or automatic drip irrigation is used. Water for irrigation is taken below +18 degrees Celsius to avoid infection with powdery mildew. After that, the plantings are necessarily spud, and the aisles are loosened to provide access to the roots of oxygen.

14 days after planting the plant in open ground, the primary feeding of the onion on the turnip is carried out. Usually it is early to mid June. The leaves during this period grow weakly and have a light shade.

Top dressing of onions in June is carried out with nitrogen-containing fertilizers to accelerate growth. Choose one of the most popular products among gardeners.

Organic fertilizers: 1 cup mullein or chicken manure and 1 tbsp. l. urea, diluted in 10 liters. water; or 1 glass of manure, dissolved in 10 liters of water. Consumption up to 3 liters per 1 sq.m.;

Mineral: 30 gr. ammonium nitrate, 40 gr. superphosphate and 20 gr. potassium chloride diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption 1-2 liters per sq.m.;

From chemicals suitable Vegeta, 2 tbsp. spoons, which are diluted in 10 liters of water with 1 tbsp. l. urea. Consumption up to 5 liters per 1 sq. m.; folk method : 3 tbsp. l. ammonia, diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. Consumption 1-2 liters per sq.m.

With a lack of nitrogen, feathers will grow slowly and weakly. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the plant will put all its strength into forcing greens and the head will form weakly. After fertilization, the plantings must be irrigated unless an automatic drip irrigation system is connected. After each watering, loosening of the soil is necessary.

Onion care in June also involves protection from insects and diseases. With a frequency of once a week in wet weather, and every 2 weeks in dry weather, fungicide treatment is carried out, choosing one of the following general agents:

0.2% Ridomil at the rate of 1.5 kg per 1 ha; 0.4%

Cineba at the rate of 2.4 kg per 1 ha;

7% Bordeaux liquid at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 ha;

0.4% copper oxychloride at the rate of 2.4 kg per 1 ha.

Onion care in July

On the 20th day after the end of the first feeding, a secondary fertilizer is carried out. Apply fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. The most popular among gardeners are following recipes from an approximate consumption of 10 liters per 2 sq. m. beds:

30 gr. ammonium nitrate,

60 gr. superphosphate and 30 gr. potassium chloride diluted in 10 liters of water;

1 st. l. salt, 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate and 10 gr. 1% iodine dissolved in 10 liters of water;

2 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, for 10 liters of water;

1 liter of herbal liquid fertilizer: pour a third of a bucket of mint green weeds or nettles with 3 liters of water, add a tablespoon of yeast, leave for 2-3 days, dilute to 9 liters with water before use;

Onion feeding in July is also carried out with ready-made preparations, such as Agricol-2, 1 tbsp. l. which is diluted in 10 liters of water.

When there is a shortage potassium the leaves of the plant turn yellow, with a lack of phosphorus tops dry. They must be cut so that they do not take strength from the bulb. At high temperatures and prolonged heat, watering is carried out twice a week, at the rate of up to 6 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Water from a watering can under the leaves with a small stream, in the morning or in the evening.

Feeding onions in August

If the soil is poor during head formation onion carry out the third dressing.

The head of the plant should grow to 4 cm in diameter. For these purposes, one of the potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is selected:

30 gr. potassium chloride and 60 gr. aqueous solution superphosphate, per 10 liters of water;

2 tbsp. l. superphosphate diluted in 10 liters of water;

10 gr. potassium salt and 20 gr. superphosphate per 10 liters of water;

250 gr. wood ash diluted in 10 liters of boiling water and infused for 2 days;

Of the chemicals suitable "Effekton-O", 2 tbsp. l. which is diluted in 10 liters of water, additionally adding 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

The consumption of ready mixes for fertilizer is up to 5 liters per 1 sq. m. All stages of top dressing are carried out in dry calm weather in the evening. You need to pour under the root, trying not to fall on the greens. 24 hours after feeding, it is advisable to spray the plant clean water so that fertilizer residues do not remain on it.

2 weeks before harvest, at the end of August - September, watering is suspended. They begin to dig up the bulbs when the growth of new green feathers stops and the existing feathers mass adhere to the ground, fully formed and painted in Brown color heads. Don't delay harvesting. Harvesting is not delayed beyond mid-September, as onions can resume growth. Such fruits become unsuitable for storage.

After harvesting, onions are laid out in a dry, ventilated area or hung in bunches. Greens are not cut so that the head draws out the remaining juices from it. After a month, it can be transferred to a storage location. First you need to cut off the dried tops and roots, but at the same time leave 3-4 centimeters of the neck and some roots.

Material prepared by: Nadezhda Zimina, gardener with 24 years of experience, process engineer

Onion (Allium cepa L) is a culture that is familiar to the whole world. It is the closest relative of many garden flowers, such as lilies, hyacinths, tulips, and was formerly in the lily family. It has been grown on all continents of the planet for 4 thousand years. Organics have traditionally been used as a fertilizer for onions all this time. But with the advent of tuks (agrochemicals), the situation has changed. Mineral fertilizers began to be used more and more often, both in the fields of large agricultural producers and in private farms. They are more convenient to use, lighter and cheaper than natural ones, and every year the range of their application is expanding.

When growing onions, tuki is preferable to organic, which holds in its structure a large number of moisture. This property can cause rotting of the underground part of the plant. And fertilizers of industrial production, on the contrary, due to their absorbent properties, will absorb excess liquid. It will not stagnate in the deep layers of the soil, but will go directly to the roots of the plant, carrying them dissolved nutrients.

Nevertheless, organics are quite widely used when feeding onions. This is not only a tribute to the centuries-old tradition, but also a rational attitude to the preservation of the fertility of the earth. The fact is that onions actively consume nutrients, significantly reducing the humus content in the upper layers of the soil, and significantly reducing its fertile layer. It can be revived in only one way - by applying organic fertilizers for autumn soil dressing.

Onions for greens

Green onions are one of the most valuable sources of vitamins, and many other useful macro- and microelements. He contains:

• Sucrose, inulin, maltose - 10-14%;
• Proteins - 2-3%;
• Vitamins - ascorbic acid, potassium, phosphorus, iron.
• Also in its leaves there are essential oils, iodine, citric and malic acids.

The aerial part of this plant is very popular in the preparation of various dishes. Salads are prepared from onion tops, they are added to cuts and cuts, pies are stuffed. It is always in demand, so many farmers and private households grow onions on a feather almost all year round. On an industrial scale of production, year-round forcing of greens in greenhouses is most often used, and for personal consumption they plant onions before winter in order to have fresh feathers on the table already in April. It is also germinated in special containers on the windowsills.

autumn planting

Winter onion planting is carried out in the second half of October before the onset of severe cold. It should not have time to germinate, but, at the same time, it needs to fully take root in order to survive the winter. strongly deepen planting material it’s not worth it, there is a high risk that there will be practically no shoots in the spring, all the bulbs will rot, failing to break through to the surface. For planting, large specimens of onion sets are selected, which immediately release bunches of green feathers in the spring. It is better not to take small onions for forcing on greens. Until they grow and increase their mass, there will be no use. The maximum that they will give is one or two frail arrows from one plant. With the winter planting method, you can grow onions for greens and from seeds. But a quick harvest in this case should not be expected.

Fertilizers for onions on a feather can be applied both in spring and in autumn, while digging the soil. Before using them, it is necessary to disinfect the bed with copper sulphate, dissolving 1 liter. Art. substances in 10 liters of water. The soil is shed with the resulting solution the day before the main top dressing is applied, spending 2 liters per 1 sq. m.

For autumn dressing of soil for onions, it is necessary to use a combination of natural and mineral fertilizers. One organic matter cannot be used, especially freshly obtained from animals. It is unacceptable to use fresh manure or chicken manure for planting onions in the winter - the planting material will rot. Therefore, for autumn application, a well-rotted, thoroughly decomposed dry mullein is taken and combined with it, which, due to the long period of transition of phosphorus into a form accessible to plants, is best applied in the fall. It is necessary to observe the following application proportions (based on 1 sq.m.): humus - 5 kg, granulated superphosphate - 40 g. Before winter, it is best to plant zoned varieties that tolerate local conditions well. For middle lane the following are recommended: Arzamas, Chalcedony, Bessonovsky.

In the spring, fertilizers for onions are applied after the seedlings reach a height of 10-15 cm, after removing diseased and weak plants from the garden. It is at this time that plantings most need phosphorus and nitrogen. If superphosphate has been introduced into the soil since autumn, then in the spring it is no longer necessary to add it. But the presence is necessary for the good growth of the aerial part of the onion, since it is this element that is responsible for the development of the green mass. Nitrogen can be obtained from liquid top dressings based on organic fertilizers. Here are some of the most popular recipes:

• Extract from . Animal excrement is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 20, and insisted in a warm place for a week. After that, take one part of this suspension, and pour 10 parts of water. The resulting liquid is shed between rows on onion beds.
• Solution. Cattle manure is less vigorous than horse manure, so it is bred in less liquid. About 1 liter of mullein is taken for 10 liters of water, and they also insist for a week. Before use, the working solution is diluted again, 1: 5, and applied as a fertilizer for onions, watering the plants using the same technology as when feeding with horse manure.
• Infusion from. It is prepared and used according to the same principle as an extract from any other organic matter, only diluted with thinner, 1: 25, and they give more time for fermentation. The fact is that bird droppings contain a huge amount of uric acid, which burns the roots and tubers of plants with the direct application of this natural top dressing.

Forcing in a greenhouse

When growing onions in a greenhouse, the area can be used much more rationally than when forcing any other crops (except). It is planted not only in the soil on the floor, but also on racks along the glass walls. The best varieties for year-round cultivation in closed ground, the following are considered: Slizun, Multi-tiered, Shniit.

In a greenhouse with heating, you can start growing green onions as early as October when the gardening season ends and fresh produce rises sharply in price. Bulbs with a multi-ring structure are chosen for pen forcing, as they will eventually give more lush bunches of greenery.

In order to “wake up” the bulbs as soon as possible in winter, they must be pre-treated. To do this, the upper part is cut off, and the root plate is cleared, removing the appeared and dried roots, and adhering soil. After that, the planting material is soaked in water with a couple of drops of a growth stimulator (Epin, or any other).

After that, they are planted in the soil and containers, placing the bulbs close to each other. When grown on greenery, the underground part dries out rather than grows, giving all the strength, vitamins and nutrients to the ground. It is necessary to water this plant abundantly during forcing, but rarely, so that the soil does not turn sour, because then the underground part can rot. It should be fed more abundantly than onions, since the time for growing green onions is shorter. Literally 20-25 days after planting, the first cut of the feather is made.

Solutions of agrochemicals are usually used as fertilizers for onions on a feather.. Since the bulbs are very tightly packed in the containers, only liquid fertilizers can penetrate to their roots. For example, you can use a phosphorus-potassium mixture by diluting 20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. Pour the plantings with the resulting solution until completely moistened. In greenhouses without heating, onions begin to be grown in March, taking two or three crops before the onset of summer, when they have to give way to tomatoes and peppers. With this mode of operation, the land is quickly depleted, and it must be restored with organic and mineral top dressing.

The main part of fertilizers for onions is applied to the feather before planting it. In order to get more products from the greenhouse area, when growing for sale, it is necessary to apply top dressing and prepare the soil in advance, introducing dry organic matter and mineral fertilizers into it.

Video: growing green onions in a greenhouse

Growing green onions in the window

For growing green onions for personal consumption at home, you can use special device. From 14 to 20 bulbs are placed in it at the same time. For a month, up to 1.5 kg of useful vitamin greens are obtained from this micro-garden. The installation does not take up much space, is compact, consumes little electricity. The principle of its operation is based on the technology of air feeding of the roots. The compressor pumps air, forming small bubbles with oxygen, which directly enters the plant. A water-air environment is created in which the roots of the plant do not rot and grow faster.

You can grow onions at home in the old, "old-fashioned" way. To do this, planting material is placed in containers with water, preferably filtered, so that chlorine from the water supply does not get into the greens. To accelerate growth, you can add a biostimulant to the liquid - Epin, or any other.

Growing onions from seeds

This variety can be found in gardens most often. This type of onion is the most popular in home cooking. It is added to almost all first and second courses, and is also used for marinating meat and preparing various pickles.

Onion is a cold-resistant plant that germinates at a temperature of 5-7 °C. It is undemanding to conditions, resistant to frost, so many of its varieties are grown by winter sowing. He likes soils with a slightly alkaline and neutral reaction, well seasoned with dry humus.

You can grow onions different ways. With a full production cycle, it takes two years to obtain finished products, and when planting onion sets, the crop can be eaten in the same year. The first scheme allows you to do without purchased planting material, the second - to get a crop for more short term.

You can grow onions from both purchased and from your own seeds. If the choice fell on breeding planting material, then the following varieties are recommended for the middle lane: Terekhovsky, Yantarny, Spassky, Stuttgarten, Strigunovsky.

Seeds of this crop can be planted before winter or spring., in the first case, seedlings will appear earlier. The bed must be prepared in advance by digging it with manure or compost a couple of weeks before planting. Fertilizers for onions, as well as for green onions, should preferably be applied in advance. When making, they use the same "cocktail" of organics and minerals, as under a bow on a feather.

Seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 cm, marking the beginning and end of each row with pegs. The fact is that onions from seeds give very thin sprouts, which you can simply not notice when weeding weeds, and pull them out along with it. When sowing, it is desirable to apply mineral fertilizers that will spur the growth and development of the plant. A mixture consisting of 7 g of ammonium nitrate, 7 g of granular double superphosphate, and 5 g of potassium chloride is evenly distributed over 1 m of the strip. This is the optimal fertilizer composition for onions, in which the necessary balance of macronutrients is observed.

Throughout the growing season, onions obtained from seeds must be carefully looked after. Weeds need to declare a fierce war, if necessary, cover the aisles with black non-woven agrotextile, which allows water and air to pass through, but does not allow any vegetation to develop under its surface.

In autumn, standard varieties of onions planted with seeds grow to the size of a set. They are pulled out and dried in the shade for about a week. Then they are cleaned in nets and stored in a cool, well-ventilated area until next spring. In April, when stable warm weather sets in, the onions are again planted in the ground and grown to the size of economic suitability.

Video: growing onions from seeds

Growing onions on a turnip from sevka

In the open field, onions reach maturity in 10-12 weeks. It is grown from sets or substandard fractions of the previous crop. The best predecessors for this crop are considered, as well as, which has the property of repelling onion pests, even a year after it is grown in the garden.

After harvesting vegetables, the earth is dug up, and fertilizers for onions are applied to it - well-rotted, dried manure, about 5-7 kg per square meter, and about 200 g per meter. form high beds, which should settle slightly and settle down so that there are no significant gaps between the clods of earth. Good soil compaction is especially important during winter planting, as moisture accumulates in the cavities, and if it comes into contact with the bulb, it will die from frost or rot in the spring after the soil thaws.

If sevok for growing onions is planted on a turnip in the spring, then the ground must be pickled with potassium permanganate to get rid of the pathogenic flora. The bottom of each onion needs to be cleared, the top - cut to the shoulders. It is also desirable to remove all excess scales from the bulb, it can cause it to rot in the ground.

Growing a giant onion

Over the past few years, onion varieties that reach economic ripeness in one season have been gaining more and more popularity. At the same time, not onion sets are used as planting material, but seeds, from which a full-fledged “turnip” grows at the end of summer. In the southern regions, it is grown by direct sowing in the garden. But in the middle lane, climatic conditions do not allow the use of this method, so varieties of giant onions are grown through seedlings.

The best zoned varieties for the middle lane are Kasatik, Penguin, Danilovsky, and the star of Western selection, which has taken root well with us - Exhibition onion. This is an annual variety with a short shelf life of no more than four months. It is one of the largest in mass, among all varieties of giant bows, the weight of one head can exceed 1.5 kg.

It is best to grow Exhibition onions from seeds, then it will be tasty, without too much bitterness. It is necessary to feed moderately, otherwise the shelf life will be significantly reduced, and so not too long. When planting, to prevent various diseases, the earth is sprayed with Fitosporin, diluted in a proportion of 1 liter. Art. per 10 liters of water, and the seeds are soaked in a weak solution boric acid for the night.

Seedlings begin to be planted in February in boxes on the windowsill. At home, the sprouts of a giant onion must be illuminated, otherwise the seedlings will be weak and will begin to lag behind in growth.

land on personal plot for onion Exhibition is prepared in the same way as for any other - manure plus phosphorus with potassium. Manure can be replaced or. The main care procedure during the first two months is weeding and loosening. If you start the beds, then the yield can be reduced by at least 50%, and instead of a giant onion, an ordinary “turnip” will grow in the garden.

Leek

Who is not familiar with this culture, seeing for the first time flat leaves, take them for overgrown garlic tops. But in fact, it is a full-fledged representative of the onion family (formerly lily). Previously, there was an opinion that it was impossible to grow leeks in our climate. But this belief turned out to be fundamentally wrong, and now this culture is not grown, except perhaps only by the lazy one.

In fact, leeks do not require special care. It is grown as a biennial plant in the open field, or used for forcing high-vitamin greens in greenhouses. The best varieties for the middle lane are Karatan, Mercury and Late-ripening Bulgarian.

In the conditions of the middle lane, leeks are grown through seedlings. Seeds are planted in boxes in mid-February, and transferred to a permanent place at the end of April. The first month you will need shelter, which is removed after the onset of a period of constant positive temperatures.

Under leeks, it is best to apply a combination of natural and mineral fertilizers. The optimal composition would be (per 1 sq.m.) - 1 bucket of manure compost, a teaspoon and 2 tbsp. nitrophoska.

decorative bow

At the end of the story about growing onions, I would like to pay attention to its decorative varieties. it perennial will become a real decoration of your garden. It is usually planted in the background of flower beds, and is also used as a dominant in the center of rustic-style rabatok.

You can grow ornamental onions both from seeds and, as a standard, from tubers. The first method is cheaper, but more difficult, the second is simpler, but more expensive, the cost of some varieties reaches a thousand rubles per unit of planting material.

It is imperative to fertilize decorative varieties, otherwise they will not be able to show themselves in all their glory. Flowers that form from the primordia of the seed pod will be smaller, and the arrows on which they form will be shorter and thicker.

To achieve optimal results and extend the flowering period, ornamental onions need the same complex of fertilizers as their onion counterpart - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but in large quantities. Therefore, it is fed with a solution of nitroammafoska (40 g per 10 l), or ammonium nitrate in combination with superphosphate and potassium sulfate (20:10:10 per 10 l of water). If the plant overwinters in the soil, then superphosphate can be applied under it already in March, along the edge of the hole, right into the snow. The fertilizer itself will "burn" its way to the surface of the earth.

When growing onions ornamental varieties it should be noted that it is impossible to plant it next to the onion left for seeds. These two species can cross-pollinate with each other, and as a result, a completely wild hybrid will turn out, not suitable for food, not for ornamental cultivation.

Video: onion cultivation workshop

The culture is very sensitive to the content of organic matter in the soil, so you can not fertilize the beds with fresh manure. Due to the high content of organic substances in carrots, the growth point is “burnt”, and it becomes “horned”. In addition, the taste properties of root crops deteriorate, and they are poorly stored. A high content of nitrogen fertilizers also negatively affects the storage of vegetables. There are no other restrictions: carrots can be fed with phosphate and potash fertilizers, peat, humus, ash, etc.

In autumn, before planting garlic, I apply organic and mineral fertilizers: 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2. Then the site is completely dug up on a full bayonet of a shovel, evenly mixing fertilizers with soil. I plant garlic in the second half of September - early October in a garden bed at a distance of 20-25 cm row from row. The teeth, depending on the size, are planted at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other, the planting depth is 3-4 cm. Planted garlic is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 1.5-2 cm (1.5-2 buckets per 1 sq. ) In spring and summer, caring for garlic consists in fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, watering as the soil dries up and weeding. Be sure to break out the arrows that appear - this will increase the yield of garlic. Garlic ripens in late July - early August. It is impossible to be late with cleaning, otherwise, overripe, the heads will fall apart. Therefore, when the leaves turn yellow, pull the garlic out of the ground and dry it in a dry place for 4-5 days, and then cut off the roots and tops, leaving a 4-5 cm neck.

Good drying of onions and garlic, as well as their proper storage. In case of disease of the heads, you need to additionally dry them and powder with chalk.

Diseases of garlic

Protection of garlic (onions) from pests and diseases

- fungal disease. Initially, pale green spots appear on the onion leaves, later they turn into a grayish-purple coating. The upper part of the leaves (tops of the feather) turns yellow and dies off. The disease develops strongly in humid warm weather. The fungus overwinters in the soil, on old unharvested plants and in bulbs during storage. Planting onions and garlic in its original place is allowed only after 3-4 years. The bed must be limed in autumn or a month before planting at the rate of 2 cups of fluffy lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 m2. Before planting garlic and onions, the soil is watered at the rate of 3 liters per 1 m2 with a solution of sodium chloride (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Garlic and onions before planting, both in spring and autumn, are treated with the following solution: 3 tablespoons of table salt are diluted in 5 liters of water - and the bulbs are immersed for 15-20 minutes. Then, without washing, the bulbs are planted. In early June, spring and winter garlic and onions for turnips need to be fed with ammonium sulfate (2 tablespoons of ammonium sulfate per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 4-5 liters per 1 m2. Onions and garlic planted in spring are additionally fed with the same solution 10 days after germination. As a result, onions and garlic gain strength and resistance to pests. ​ ​ Garlic is very responsive to the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. In autumn, the site is fertilized with humus or compost (6-7 kg per 1 sq. M.). However, do not press the teeth into the ground, this will delay the growth of the roots. In addition, the compacted earth can then push the garlic to the surface, and it will freeze. Planting: preparation, timing, depth and rates of planting garlic 3rd, that is, the last top dressing should be done around the middle or end of June. During this period, the formation of the bulb itself takes place, therefore, the plant will need nutrition. This time is also suitable for both plant varieties. Only here you need to know that the winter type of garlic ripens much earlier than the spring one, therefore, the timing of top dressing must be calculated, focusing on the degree of development of the plant. We are talking about moisturizing and nourishing the seeds. They contain a large amount essential oils, which prevent the access of moisture and delay swelling and germination. That is why carrot seeds are kept in a special solution before planting: a third of a tsp. boric acid and half tsp. nitrophoska per liter of water. Another version of the solution: dilute potassium permanganate in a liter of warm water until red and add half a tsp. complex dry (or liquid) fertilizer. The seeds are immersed in the solution for one day, then washed with water and placed in a damp cloth. Then the seeds are in the refrigerator for 3-5 days, after which they can be dried and planted. is no exception. To grow a large turnip, we feed the onion crops with natural manure fertilizer. Only Irina Matyeshina, p. Malaya-Tura, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Ukraine - J. "House in the garden"​

Fusarium Control measures: Onion fly Signs of harvest ripeness

refrain from applying fresh manure But the earth should not be too loose either, you need to lightly tamp it, otherwise the teeth may "drown" and the bulbs will turn out small and will not be stored well. Planting depth depends on the type of soil and the size of the garlic cloves. From the top of the clove to the surface of the soil should be 3-4 cm. The root system of garlic is underdeveloped and is located in top layer soil, so it must be planted on fertile plot, processed to a depth of 20-25 cm with a neutral reaction of the soil solution (pH 6.1-7.0). This culture cannot be placed both in low places where melt water accumulates in spring, and in high places, where in winter the wind blows snow away and there is a threat of garlic freezing. You can protect the beds from frost using mulching materials. In early spring, this mulch should be removed before germination to avoid overheating the plants. With prolonged warming in winter, which leads to snow melting, it is better to remove the covering material. The main thing is not to miss the moment for fertilizer, because if you miss it, then the harvest can not be very successful. But if with the 1st and 2nd top dressing small deviations from the schedule are acceptable, then the 3rd must be performed strictly at the scheduled time. If you do it too early, then the food will not go to the formation of the bulb, but only to the growth of greenery and arrows. Under spring dressing fertilization is meant before planting. Mineral fertilizers should be applied in such quantities: saltpeter - up to 25 g / m²; superphosphate - 25 g / m², potassium chloride - up to 30 g / m². AT clay soils before planting, peat and sand are added at the rate of 1 bucket per 2 m² and a mineral mixture. In sandy infertile soils, it is necessary to add 1 bucket of peat, half a bucket of humus and a mixture of mineral fertilizers. Ventilate often and avoid sweating. Winter garlic is poorly stored at home - after 3-4 months it begins to sprout, hurt and dry out. Remember: only the best garlic can be stored - properly grown, without excess nitrogen fertilizers, well ripened, but not overripe, harvested in late July - early August (spring - three weeks later). During storage, garlic must be looked after and as soon as a bulb appears with a suspicion of a disease, damaged, dried up or cracked, it should be removed immediately.- fungal disease. Initially, there is softening of the bottom, pinking and dying of the roots, the appearance of brownishness on the leaves, their gradual death and drying of the plant, as well as the bulbs. The bed for planting onions should have a direction from north to south so that it is well lit by the sun. Make sure that the sowing of seeds and planting the seedlings are not thickened and clogged with weeds. Before planting the seedlings, it is necessary to warm up at a temperature of 30-35 "C for 8-10 hours. When the onion leaves are 10-12 cm high, they must be sprinkled with a solution of copper oxychloride (1 tablespoon of copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon liquid soap per 10 liters of water). If this disease is detected, it is necessary to exclude watering and fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. Cleaning should be done when the leaves are still green and the bulbs have already taken shape. The leaves are immediately cut and burned, and the bulbs themselves are well dried in the sun for 12-14 days.- from the second half of May, the years of the onion fly begin. She lays her eggs on the soil or on dry onion scales. After a few days, larvae come out of the testicles and penetrate into the bulb, it rots, and the plant fades. All forms of garlic: the formation of a dense shell around the heads, clear outlines of the teeth, yellowing of the two lower leaves. Winter garlic is harvested in late July - early August, spring - 2-3 weeks later. In rainy summers, garlic harvesting is best done earlier. Shortly before harvesting, the soil is raked from the bulbs - this contributes to the ripening of garlic, and increased doses of nitrogen fertilizers, which leads to a powerful growth of the vegetative mass and a decrease in the yield of the bulbs. Too shallow landing threatens with freezing. For planting, large and medium garlic bulbs are selected, which are divided into cloves just before planting. When planting, only large (more than 6 g) and medium (3-6 g) cloves are used. If there are only 2-3 cloves in the bulb, albeit large ones, this is degenerate garlic and is not suitable for planting. With prolonged reproduction only by cloves, pathogens accumulate in garlic plants, which also leads to its degeneration. Therefore, it is desirable to renew all planting material every 3-4 years. To do this, annually up to 30% of the seed must be replaced with single cloves grown from air bulbs. During the growth period, carrots can be fertilized with mineral mixtures, humus or peat. The first top dressing can be carried out after thinning, combining this procedure with watering. The second can be done two or three weeks after the first. In early August, ash top dressing is the most effective - 100 g of ash per meter of furrow. Of course, it should be diluted with water so as not to burn the plant. We take last year's rotted manure and dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 7, let this solution brew for a week and then carry out root dressing with liquid natural fertilizer, carefully watering the onion plantings between the rows. Grow garlic in one place

Control measures: Onion and garlic rust Control measures:​ ​

Plants, especially winter varieties, are responsive to phosphorus and potash fertilizers, since these elements increase the winter hardiness of garlic. In early spring, even on thalom-frozen soil, winter garlic is fed and, when full shoots of spring garlic appear, with mineral fertilizers per 10 square meters: 60 g of ammonium nitrate, 90-100 g of superphosphate and 50-60 g of potassium sulfate. The second dressing of garlic is carried out, if necessary, after 25-30 days with the same doses.

Landings need to be mulched with a layer of peat, humus or sawdust 2–5 cm thick, spread out brushwood to hold snow in the beds. In the spring, the mulch layer is removed so that the plants do not dry out.

When preparing seed, it is necessary to discard damaged teeth. But if at least one sick tooth is still found, the seed should be soaked 12 hours before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or 1% solution of copper sulphate. You can also use warming up the bulbs before planting in a well-ventilated room at a temperature

The 1st top dressing is most often produced with a solution of urea at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. The culture is shed with such a solution according to the following scheme: per 1 sq. m. about 2-3 liters of solution. And the last. Before deciding how to feed carrots, think about how soon you will harvest. We are not talking about the planned harvesting of all root crops, because quite often gardeners pull out small young carrots. In this case, the use of fertilizers is undesirable, since at least two weeks must pass between the last top dressing and eating carrots.

Storage of garlic

no more than two years. Otherwise, soil contamination with a stem nematode cannot be avoided. It is better to use garlic after cucumber, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions) ​Using healthy material for planting and observing crop rotation, tillage before planting with a solution of copper sulphate (1 tablespoon is taken per 10 liters of water). Destruction of diseased plants.

- fungal disease. The disease affects the leaves: light yellow, slightly convex pads are formed, later they turn black. The infection persists on plant debris and on perennial onion species. Early planting and sowing of onions. When a fly appears, the soil is sprinkled with a deterrent - 100 g of wood ash, a tablespoon of tobacco dust and a teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m2. After dusting the soil, it is necessary to loosen the soil every 4-5 days to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Onions are one of the staple foods and a very common vegetable crop. Vegetable growers and summer residents try to grow it in their beds. But, like all vegetables, without fertilizer, it will not give good harvest. Find out when and how to feed the onions in order to get as many heads from your beds that are enough for the autumn-summer period.

Onion turnip is demanding on the nutritional value of the soil. In order for the heads to grow large, the soil must contain all the nutrients necessary for the vegetable, especially nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Moreover, this or that macroelement is needed onion at each stage of development:

• nitrogen - in the first phase of vegetation;
• potassium - for the formation of normal healthy bulbs;
• phosphorus - throughout the growth and development.

You can feed onions in the open field with both mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as combine them. For those and others, there are their own application schemes and dosage. They must always be adhered to, since a lack or excess of minerals in the soil equally badly affects the growth and development of plants.

Mineral fertilizers

These are ready-made mixtures obtained industrially. They include the main elements (N, P and K) in different ratios. Fertilizer for onions, including nitrogen - ammonium nitrate, ammonium carbonate and urea, sodium, calcium and potassium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, ammophos. The nitrogen included in these mixtures is necessary for the vegetable to grow a green feather, without the normal development of which typical bulbs cannot form. With a shortage of this element, the plants will be frail, and the harvest will be small and of poor quality.

Onions need potassium for the normal course of metabolic processes, ensuring resistance to heat, strong temperature changes. It also improves the presentation of the heads, their ability to store. Its plants can be obtained from potassium nitrate, potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate, and also from fertilizers containing chlorine - potassium chloride and potassium salt during their winter application.

In addition to nitrogen and potassium, onions also need to be fed with phosphorus. It is contained in such fertilizers as superphosphate, ammophos, nitroammophos, nitroammophoska, phosphate rock, precipitate, tomasslag. At the same time, the most famous and valuable is superphosphate, in different types which, in addition to phosphorus and nitrogen, contains other minerals - magnesium, iron, sulfur, manganese, boron and zinc. The use of phosphorus fertilizers helps onions become more resistant to diseases, stimulates plant growth, and increases yields.

organic fertilizers

From natural fertilizers for onions, you can use manure, bird droppings, humus, ash, bone meal. In them, mineral elements are in an easily accessible and fully digestible form. Introduced into the soil, they improve its structure, make it more breathable, and also contribute to the best absorption of nutrients from inorganic fertilizers by plants.

You can fertilize the ground on onion beds with complex mixtures made from organic components, for example, Agricola-2, designed specifically for feeding garlic and onions. Other fertilizers are also suitable: Effecton-O, Gumi, Clean Leaf, Cytovit, etc.

Folk remedies

In addition to traditional fertilizers, you can feed onions and folk remedies. Such top dressing is used not only to get large, dense, healthy bulbs, but also plants are treated with home remedies to get onions on a feather.

Ammonia

This substance is used as a kind of nitrogen fertilizer, because it contains ammonia. Ammonia works especially well on plants whose leaves have begun to turn yellow. Top dressing is prepared at a concentration of 3 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of cool water. Liquid is poured over the onion under the root, trying not to get on the delicate green feather, so as not to burn it. The next day, the dried soil is loosened. Top dressing of onions with ammonia can be carried out at intervals of 1 time every 2 weeks.

Ammonia is not only a good fertilizer, but also a remedy that repels the pests of this vegetable with its smell - the onion fly and wireworms. To protect the beds, a slightly different solution is prepared: 2 tbsp. l. substances are stirred and the resulting solution is shed between the rows. After the soil has dried, it is loosened. Processing of onions with ammonia is carried out in June-July, which account for the peak of pest reproduction.

If aphids have bred on the plants, you can also get rid of these insects with the help of ammonia. To do this, prepare a solution of 3 tbsp. l. alcohol, 50 g of shavings of any laundry soap and 10 liters of water, and then spray them with onion beds.

baker's yeast

Ordinary yeast can also become a “live” top dressing for onions if its feather begins to lose color. For the preparation of the product, fresh and dry yeast is used. In the case of fresh yeast, they take 10 liters of water, soak 0.5 kg of bread crumb in it, insist a little, then put another 0.5 kg of yeast and fresh grass. Leave to infuse for 2 days, filter and water the vegetables.

If a dry powder is used, then 10 g is taken, dissolved in 10 liters of water, another 2 tbsp is added to it. l. Sahara. Infuse for 2 hours, dilute in a ratio of 1 to 5 with warm water and water the onion under the root. Yeast top dressing for onions saturates it not only with nitrogen, but also with a mass of minerals no less necessary for it, and enriches the soil itself with oxygen and activates the vital activity of healthy microflora in it, and also contributes to the rapid decomposition of organic substances.

Autumn soil preparation

Loose, airy and nutritious land is the key to obtaining an excellent harvest, so its preparation is carried out in the fall. To do this, when digging beds in the fall, for every 1 m 2 of their area, 5 kg of fresh manure or peat, 10 kg of humus mixed with 10 kg of river sand are added. Of the common mineral fertilizers, urea and superphosphate are used. They are introduced during digging at 20-30 g for every 1 m 2 of vegetable plantations.

Feeding onions for turnips at various stages of development

In early spring, when it gets warm, the soil is also fertilized before planting onions, for which ammophos or ammonium nitrate in the amount of 10 g for loams and 20 g for sandy loams and sandy soils is applied for each m 2 of onion beds.

The very first feeding of onions on a turnip takes place in early spring, approximately when the green feather in young plants grows by about 3-4 cm. They are watered strictly under the root with Vegeta fertilizer or a solution of 3 fertilizers:

• 20 g of potassium chloride;
• 30 g of ammonium nitrate;
• 40 g of superphosphate.

For the first top dressing in the spring of onion plantations, slurry is also used, which is prepared from 1 glass of fresh manure and 1 bucket of water. Nitrogen top dressing for onion sets can be the same slurry, but only infused. To prepare it, they take 1 liter of manure or bird droppings, pour 5 liters of heated water, and then leave it for 2 weeks so that the organics ferment. After that, the resulting liquid is once again diluted with clean water: manure in a ratio of 1 to 10, poultry droppings - 1 to 20.

With the same means, you can feed onions in the spring, planted before winter. The substances that are in them will allow young plants to begin active growth, build up a lush and strong green feather, and prepare for the formation of heads.

The next top dressing is carried out approximately 1 month after the first. For it, use on 1 m 2:

• ready mix Agricola-2 (in accordance with the instructions);

• an aqueous solution of 15 g of saltpeter and potassium chloride, as well as 30 g of superphosphate;
• light brown infusion of weeds.

Or they simply evenly scatter dry fertilizers over the beds before the upcoming rain, or water the earth with warm water.

For the third time, vegetable beds are fertilized with phosphorus-potassium supplements containing a large percentage of P and K. At this time, onions are fed so that they are large. They start watering with fertilizer solutions when its bulbs reach a size of about 4-5 cm. They use a mixture of potassium chloride and superphosphate, which are taken at 60 and 30 g, respectively, diluted with 1 bucket of water. This amount is calculated for 5 m 2 beds.

To stimulate the formation of heads, the Effecton-O agent is used together with superphosphate (they take 2 tablespoons and 1 tablespoon per 10 liters). From organic fertilizers at this time, ash can be useful, which is sprinkled on the soil or watered with infused for 3-4 days and diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 1 ash solution (take 0.25 g of ash per 10 liters of water).

Feeding onions for greens

Many vegetable growers practice onion cultivation in their gardens not only for a turnip, but simply for a green feather. In this case, nitrogen will be the main nutrient for the plant - it should be contained in the soil the most. With its shortage, it will not work to get luxurious greenery.

For the first feeding of onions on a feather, ammonium nitrate is used. It is taken in the amount of 30 g per 1 m 2 of beds with young onions. It is scattered on the ground and then watered. After 1-2 weeks, the next feeding is carried out with mixtures containing 2 minerals - phosphorus and potassium. To do this, take 30 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride and also scatter them on the ground.

Ash can be a good fertilizer for onions on a feather. To prepare ash fertilizer, take a little ash (200 g) per bucket hot water, insist for a day and water the beds.

Basic rules for fertilizing

In order for the variety to be guaranteed to give the crop that it is capable of, fertilizers must be applied correctly when planting onions. This garden culture, although quite unpretentious, is still sensitive to the content of minerals in the soil. If there are few of them, the harvest will also be insignificant. If there is an excess of any elements in the soil, the quality and quantity of products will also suffer.

With the timely application of fertilizers after planting and during the growing season, they respond to top dressing quickly, which becomes noticeable after a short time. The greenery becomes more magnificent and brighter, and the heads form beautiful, dense, juicy, healthy.

But you should not get carried away with fertilizers either - excess minerals accumulate in the heads, which reduces their storage capacity. To avoid such problems, it is enough to feed the vegetables 3 times per season with ready-made mixtures or organics prepared by oneself.

As for organics, you need to remember that it cannot be applied undiluted, especially bird droppings - it contains ammonia, which leaves burns on plant leaves. If liquid gets on the pen, it should be washed off immediately with water. When applying dry fertilizers directly to the soil, the beds should be watered abundantly.

There is a rule for various types soils - on sandy soils, the number of dressings should be greater, but the concentration of solutions is lower than on clay soils. Also on clays and loams, the dose of minerals should be reduced, and organics should be increased.

Maria Vlasova

gardener

Top dressing of onions is an obligatory agricultural method. It must be treated with all responsibility and attention, because only if all the rules of agricultural technology of culture are followed, you can count on bountiful harvest heads or green pen. Proper fertilization, along with proper irrigation, is the basis for growing this crop in home beds. If everything is done properly, onions of any variety will be able to please the gardener with excellent tasty and long-lasting heads.