Do-it-yourself frame garage from wood drawings. Do-it-yourself frame garage - we will do it and equip it in a short time! Sheathing of the garage with a metal profile and insulation of the garage

The technology of building a frame garage has been brought to the simplicity necessary for an ordinary car owner who is not accustomed to sophistication, but who requires at least minimally comfortable conditions for maintaining a car.

Find out strength

Of course, the first thing that every motorist who respects himself and loves his car will pay attention to is the strength of the future garage.

No awnings, temporary shelters, awnings and other flimsy structures can serve as a garage, although many of the only ones manage to “shove” their car there for year-round “accommodation”.

If funds are tight, and a garage is needed, then a frame coating can save your car from natural phenomena and temperature changes.

The proposed technology is one of the most accessible and profitable- the construction of a frame garage with your own hands can be done, indeed, by hand, that is, without the involvement of heavy equipment.

The frame "house for the car" will be strong enough, but in order to bring the structure to the ideal, You need:

• build a garage in such a way that it does not depend on the external environment;
• create so simple design so that it allows you to repair the car on the spot;
• ensure a low level of heat transfer of the structure;
• invest in the construction of a minimum of funds.

Do you need a hole?

If everything is very clear with the foundation for the frame garage: it weighs little and therefore allows you to take the platform as the basis for the structure, then with the need to arrange a viewing hole a fair question arises: is it needed at all?

It is necessary to make a decision about its presence or absence on the eve of all construction work. This element of the garage is only mandatory if you are doing your own car repairs.

If you decide that a pit is needed, then its construction will take some time and make the implementation of your project somewhat more expensive (not significant).

The pit is dug according to the markup, its walls are reinforced with bricks (the method of laying in one brick) and provide high-quality lighting.

Along the upper perimeter of the inspection hole, it is necessary (!) to install a steel piping, which is carefully cemented. This is necessary in order to avoid collapses of the pit under the weight of the car.

Next stage comprises arrangement of a monolithic foundation. On the site prepared for it (at the bottom), the so-called pillow is poured - a mixture of sand and gravel no more than 10 cm, on top - concrete (3 cm). A reinforcement frame is placed in concrete - iron bars are placed both along and across, fixing at the intersections.

Formwork is installed along the perimeter of the almost finished site and the structure is concreted.

When the concrete fixing the foundation dries, you can, without waiting until it is well settled (not a house, after all), proceed with the installation of the frame structure.

Types of frame garages

Like any other, building a frame garage with your own hands involves the most difficult and crucial moment in the construction of the foundation. But when this stage of work is over, it turns out that there are still many important points which cannot be overlooked.

Even on what type of garage you choose, the safety of your car depends.

Among some frame garages, there are several types of garages that determine the quality of the maintenance of the car. And although experts say that keeping a car in all frame structures will be about the same, you have a chance to choose, check, compare.

Metal profile garage

According to experts, such a frame garage will cost the owner only 30 thousand rubles.

Optimal garage dimensions from corrugated board (and all other types of garages) 4.5X3.5 meters, provided that it contains one car.

The garage should not be cramped, it must provide for a comfortable placement of the car, the owner and all small and large improvised means.

Most of all, two-meter sheets of metal profile C 10 are suitable for the walls and roof of such a garage. The thickness of such a sheet should be at least 0.5 mm.

For a standard garage space, you will need 23 sheets, the lion's share of which will be spent on arranging the walls.

Sheathe the walls with overlapping sheets connecting with roofing screws. Adjust the length of the cover (roof) so that its main size (covering) is 1.9 meters, and 10 cm are left for the overhang equipment necessary for rainwater to drain.

The construction time of such a garage is frame technology is a week.

Metal frame garages are described in more detail in the next.

Frame-panel garage

To build a frame-panel garage, you do not need a project. You can just take the most unpretentious designs produced at any plant: in this case, this roof structures and wall panels.

This type of frame garage is highly economical, during its construction, you can meet 25 thousand rubles, excellent heat saving and simplicity of design.

In addition, such structures are more likely to resemble a house than a place where vehicles are kept, and successfully complement the landscape design.

Construction of a frame garage with your own hands, in case you have chosen a frame-panel type, proceeds according to the usual scheme:

• laying the foundation;
• establishing a framework;
• covering the "skeleton" of the structure with panels;
• warming;
• roof construction;
• gate hanging.

To your attention is a video on how to build a frame garage with your own hands.

timber garage

A feature of building this type of garage is the construction of a wooden frame, well, and the price. Such a frame garage will be much more expensive than its counterparts - metal-profile and panel garages.

But if you adhere to the principle: if you are going to build, then build with high quality, and you are right. Wood as a material has a number of advantages:

• the most environmentally friendly;
• the most energy-saving;
• the most vapor permeable;
• the most easily processed;
• the most appropriate in landscape composition.

In these photos, you see the stages of building a frame garage with your own hands.

When building a frame garage from a bar, you only need take into account some of the nuances:

• when choosing a strip type of foundation for a frame wooden garage, you just need to deepen it by 60-80 cm, but piles or pillars will have to be deeper and stronger;
• before installing the timber frame, it is necessary to develop a project or at least a sketch (but as detailed as possible);
• the joining of the bars should, if possible, be carried out by the simplest methods: the overlapping method is just right.

How much is a cheap garage

The issue of price remains relevant in the implementation of any project, even such a super-simple one as building a frame garage with your own hands.

Everyone has long been accustomed to the idea that homemade is much cheaper, therefore, most car owners are trying to provide their "swallow" with an apartment of "author's" construction.

Taking into account the frame, sheathing, work, a frame garage will cost you from 25 thousand rubles. If you use wood as a building material, then the cost will be about 35 - 70 thousand rubles, depending on the type of wood.

Every vehicle needs a parking space that is protected from wind and rain, snow and hail. For this reason, owners of private houses build garages on their plots. When there are no extra financial resources, and the car needs a “housing”, there is no need to take a loan, borrow or save money. The way out is to build a frame garage.

Peculiarities

A frame garage, unlike a brick, block or concrete garage, is much lighter. Built with the observance of technology, it performs the same functions as more massive and expensive buildings. In some cases, it is more practical than analogues. For example, for the construction of a standard brick garage 24 square meters will require more funds than the assembly of a more spacious frame.

On a larger area, you can place not only a car, but also:

• motorbike;
• snowmobile;
• lawn mower;
• snowplows and much more.

Part of the spacious room is useful for arranging the workshop. In a private house, there will always be things that are more convenient to do not in residential, but in utility rooms. A corner in the garage is perfect for such activities. There is also a workbench with a vise, and there is always a place for tools.

Pros and cons

The popularity of frame garages is due to the presence of a number of positive characteristics. Building a garage using wood or metal costs a very affordable amount, so it is quite accessible to the general population. Construction materials are not scarce. They are sold at construction markets, bases and warehouses. As for the work, then everything is quite simple. A frame garage can be assembled by people who do not have the skills of a builder.

To perform the work does not require expensive tools and mechanisms. There are enough household tools that every owner of a private house has. And those that are missing, for example, a level or a screwdriver, can be borrowed from friends or neighbors. With your own assembly, the structure can be erected in a couple of weeks. All it takes is three pairs of strong hands. You won't have to work too hard. Each of the individual parts of the garage weighs a little. Installation consists in taking measurements, installing and fastening the frame, and then in its sheathing. You will have to work a little more when arranging the foundation. But this is not as difficult as when building a brick version. Skeptics tend to look for flaws in everything.

They consider the minus of frame garages:

• Fire hazard (for wooden buildings);
• The fragility of the wooden frame;
• Lack of indoor comfort
• Low resistance to unauthorized entry.

Indeed, the tree burns well. However, subject to simple rules, it will not come to a fire. Raw bars and boards will last no more than ten years. If you impregnate wood with special chemicals, the service life will double or even triple. In a garage sheathed with profiled sheets, it is cold in winter and hot in summer. But if you make a lining of insulation from the inside, the situation will improve. And in completely wooden house always cozy. In addition, the garage, in the first place, is intended for a car. And he is very comfortable there. Getting into the frame garage is easy only when it is on the outskirts. If the building is located on personal plot in close proximity to a residential building, hardly anyone will try to profit from its contents.

It turns out that the frame garage has solid advantages, the main of which are:

• cheapness;
• ease of installation;
• construction speed.

Projects

Despite the simplicity of the frame garage, before starting work, you need to develop a project. Any design bureau will be happy to take on the development of the project. But is it worth it to turn to professionals if an ordinary person is able to make calculations and drawings for a simple garage frame on his own.

First you need to define the main parameters:

• the garage will stand separately or close to the house;
• what is the capacity of the building: for 1 or 2 cars. Perhaps there is a desire to combine a parking space with additional space and acquire an attic;
• how many windows the building will have;
• Do you need a door to the garage or is a wicket built into the gate enough?

• whether it is planned to allocate space for a separate room for a workshop or pantry;
• from what material it is planned to build a frame, how to sheathe it;
• what shape of the roof to prefer;
• whether the building will need a foundation, if so, which one;
• Is there a connection to the garage? engineering communications: gas, water, heating.

For one car with a sedan body, it is enough to allocate an area of ​​​​6 by 4 meters. An SUV will be more comfortable in a 6x6 meter garage. And in order to accommodate two cars at once, a building with dimensions of 6x8 meters is suitable.

For a standard building with a wooden frame, a square or rectangular beam (100x100 mm, 150x150 mm, 100x150 mm) can be used. For a steel frame, a pipe is suitable, for example, with a diameter of 40x40 mm. Separate assembly units (walls, strapping, roofing) are drawn on the drawing to scale. The distance between adjacent racks should not exceed 1.2 m. Knowing the number and dimensions constituent parts, you can make an estimate, determine the amount of upcoming material costs.

When choosing the type of roof, you should focus on the location of the garage in relation to the house. An attached garage is best covered with a pitched roof. From it, water will drain away from the residential building. For the attic, you will have to build a high roof with two slopes. And if there is a desire and experience construction works, from the garage you can make a beautiful outbuilding with an intricate hip, hip or gable roof.

You should not start work without a project or a simple drawing-scheme and calculation of the required material. Lack of preparation is fraught with delays in construction and other troubles.

materials

The frame of the garage can be made of two materials: wood or metal.

For the use of wood speak its characteristics:

• ease of processing;
• ecological cleanliness;
• energy saving.

Unfortunately, this option is the most expensive.

For those who still decide to build a frame from wooden bars, you need to consider a few nuances.

• Bars can be solid and glued. Whole ones are several times cheaper than glued ones. Cheapness turns into serious shrinkage and warping. Glued timber is practically not deformed. Its dimensions remain unchanged after the construction of the building.
• Unprofiled timber may crack during processing. In addition, its processing requires much more antiseptic and other protective equipment. Profiled timber is more expensive, but it does not have the above disadvantages

• Not all wood is suitable for garage construction. When making a choice in favor of one or another type, one should focus on the properties inherent in wood.
• The cheapest material is pine. The material is suitable for regions with a dry climate. Pine does not withstand serious loads, so a solid garage will require a more durable version of the building material.
• For areas with high humidity, larch or oak is suitable. The lack of strong and reliable oak is the complexity of processing. However, such a garage will last for many decades.

• Garage frames from profile pipe do not require as significant financial costs as in the manufacture of a frame from glued laminated timber. The service life of a frame made of a professional pipe is on average 25 years.
• For the arrangement of a metal garage, square or rectangular pipes with cross-sectional dimensions of 40x40 mm or 40x25 mm are used. If necessary, the pipes are paired. This increases both strength, and rigidity, and resistance to mechanical stress. The rugged construction is obtained from previously used tubing in the oil and gas industry.
• The larger the area will have a metal frame garage, the more racks it will need. Particular attention is paid to the supports intended for fastening the gate. Often, they use twin pipes from the same metal profile as conventional racks.

The metal frame will receive good rigidity when installing additional elements(stiffening ribs) between the uprights. For this, metal of various profiles is used: pipe, corner, channel. Any cladding is suitable for external cladding. construction material. On the panel garage, the cladding is fastened end-to-end. Most often used corrugated board. It perfectly withstands mechanical stress, resistant to shock. Sheets of corrugated board are overlapped, therefore, allowances must be taken into account when determining the need. They will be about 20% of the nominal size. The exact parameters of the material are determined depending on the size of the sheets.

The inner lining can take place, but you can do without it. Everything depends on the material possibilities.

Foundation

A solid building requires a solid foundation.

The foundation can be of three types:

• monolithic slab;
• columnar, including on screw piles;
• tape.

• An excellent option for a frame garage would be a monolithic slab. Reinforcement will make the base reliable and durable. A screed made on a monolith will provide a flat floor inside the room, on which a boardwalk can be made for warmth. The disadvantage of the monolith is that the plate dries for a long time, which does not allow for other work. Casting the slab requires additional costs for reinforcement and the involvement of mechanical devices in the work.
• The columnar foundation is not very suitable for garages. This type of foundation is chosen only on soft soils.
• The most profitable is the foundation tape. When the step-by-step instructions for arranging the strip foundation are followed, a solid, reliable foundation is obtained.

On the preparatory stage arranging the foundation according to the tape type, the territory is cleared of debris and vegetation. The free area is leveled, marking is done. In each of the four corners, you need to install strong pegs strictly vertically. The distance of the sides must correspond to the dimensions specified in the project (on the drawing). A laser rangefinder will help to determine the dimensions correctly, and a building square will help to maintain a right angle. The string is pulled over the pegs after the marking confirms the correctness of the garage rectangle. The check is performed by measuring the diagonals. In a similar way, the marking of the internal dimension of the strip foundation is performed. The distance between the outer and inner lines must correspond to the width of the strip base.

According to the markings, they dig a trench with a depth of about half a meter. The walls of the trench should not deviate from the vertical, and the bottom after tamping should not deviate from the horizontal. The next step is to install the formwork. The structure is assembled from edged boards, plywood or chipboard and is installed close to the walls of the trench. A pillow of gravel and sand is poured at the bottom. Fittings are installed on it. In order for the formwork to withstand the onslaught of concrete, horizontal struts are attached to the vertical walls. The final stage is the pouring of the concrete mix. There should be so much concrete to fill the entire foundation in one go. This is the only way to get a monolithic tape. And so that it is homogeneous, during pouring, the mixture is periodically pierced with a steel bar to release air and prevent the formation of shells in the foundation.

Until the mixture hardens, you need to level its horizontal surface and cover with polyethylene. It will take several days for the solution to set. During this time, the surface should be periodically moistened with water to prevent cracking. After hardening, the film is removed from the foundation, waterproofing is laid - in two layers of roofing material, and the construction of the frame structure continues.

Installation of the frame structure

Regardless of what material the garage is assembled from, the assembly of its frame can be conditionally divided into four stages. Initially, there is a lower harness. The parts are attached to each other, and the entire structure is connected to the base (foundation). If the frame is made of metal, the connection is made by welding. Wooden components are joined with bolts. The lower part of the garage is attached to the foundation with anchors. Often two types of material are combined into one. When the construction is done by one's own hands, and not by hired workers, it is easier to make the lower trim wooden.

Frame assembly technology allows you to combine wood with metal. Often, at the same time as the bottom strapping, the base for the wooden floor is prepared. The lags are strong thick boards installed on the edge, of course, pre-treated with an antiseptic. The floor is laid on the logs. In the future, it will be much easier to build a garage from a boardwalk than from bare ground. One person can't handle the building. You will need an assistant, as one will hold the next part, and the other will fix it. But not everything can be done together. For example, if the walls of the garage are assembled on the ground, which is sometimes much more convenient than in place, a third assistant will also be required.

Every car owner dreams of a small cozy garage. This dream can easily be turned into reality. with my own hands by building a garage yourself.

Construction features

Before you start making a garage, you need to carefully consider and disassemble the construction plan. First of all, you need to obtain a building permit.

Need to be given Special attention the following documents:

• SNiP 2.07.01-89 “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”;
• SNiP 21.01.97 " Fire safety buildings and structures".

If fire regulations are not met, then the building can be declared illegal and demolished.

You also need to decide what kind of building will be. It is divided into several types:

• temporary - has a short service life;
• mobile - requires a frame structure;
• combined - suitable for subsiding soils;
• capital - has a long service life, but will be expensive.

It is necessary to consider protection against intruders. It is better to spend money on an alarm system than to calculate the losses due to stolen property and a stolen car later.

Dimensions

In order to calculate the required dimensions, you should decide on the number and size of machines that will "live" in the building. You should also understand whether any other things will be stored in the garage. It is necessary to consider whether a large car will be bought in the near future. For example, if in the near future the owner is going to purchase a large truck, then building a car is pointless, it is better to immediately consider the option of building a large garage.

For one car, the size will be calculated based on its dimensions. To this value you need to add half a meter on each side. This is necessary for a comfortable exit from the car and free movement around the garage. It should be remembered that with such small sizes for tires and various devices there will be no room. Therefore, it is worth increasing the length by 3 meters and adding a few more meters to the width. The height of the building must be more than half a meter from the height of the car.

All measurements are best done with the trunk open.

For several cars, it will be more difficult to calculate the size. Between them you need to create a distance of a fully open door, you can add 30-40 cm for comfortable parking. Between the wall and the door, the distance should be more than half a meter. The front and rear of the vehicle must be positioned so that a person can pass freely. The distance should be left at about one meter.

As for the gate, here you need to take the width of the car and add 60 cm on both sides. If there are two cars, then it is better to take the width of the gate from 2.5 meters and 20 cm in reserve on each side. The height of the building is calculated in the same way as in the case of a single machine.

These were examples of the simplest small boxes. If the owner wants to use the garage space not only for storing his "iron horse", but also for other purposes, it will be enough to calculate the dimensions of the items and take into account the space for a free approach to them. Then add the data obtained to the existing dimensions of the garage, which were calculated from above.

A drawing will help determine the dimensions., it is performed on paper or in a special program. For advice, you can turn to professionals, they will help and tell you how best to fulfill this or that idea. Can be taken ready scheme. The main thing is its presence. The drawing is very important for subsequent work.

Location selection

If the garage is located on suburban area, you can consider the option of adding a structure to the house. There is no need to obtain permission here, construction does not require special conditions, because such a building is considered part of the house. Here it is possible to make the exit as close to the gate as possible or immediately to the street.

You will have to tinker with a detached type of garage. The SNiP says that there must be a distance of at least one meter between the garage and the border of the site, if on neighboring land plots no buildings. In the case when they are, then the distance should be at least 6 meters. When erecting a building, make sure that there are no sewer pipes, heating pipes, water pipes and power lines nearby. Construction in lowlands should be avoided - this can lead to flooding. The best option there will be a slight rise.

If there is not enough space on the site, then the way out of the situation is to build a garage underground. Departure must be done on the street. It is impossible to have a garage directly under the house itself, it would be more rational to make an extension to strip foundation. The area under which the building is located should not be used for the installation of structures with a foundation depth of more than 55 cm. But if there are underground springs or wetlands at the site of the future building, then it is better to refuse construction, such soil will require an extremely expensive drainage system.

The premises must be located as close as possible to the exit and the motorway, but without sharp turns.

If there is no cottage, but a garage is needed, you can buy a privatized plot of land in the city. After that, having received permission, start construction. This process is very lengthy, so be patient. You should choose a place as close as possible to the house, but you need to be prepared for the fact that there may not be free land for building within the city, but only on the outskirts or outside the city. Such a garage needs careful protection from intruders.

Design Options

There are many types of garages, for every taste and budget. The simplest and cheapest options are “shell” and “pencil case”. They can be easily made with your own hands, and the “shell” can even be moved. But they are not durable.

The next type is one-story, it can be made with a pit or a hozblok. In the city, most often they build a monolithic version, and although it does not look very attractive, it is very durable. No thief will be able to get into it. If the garage is located in a summer cottage, then a panel frame garage can be an inexpensive option. It is built many times faster than monolithic and brick.

A two-story building can serve not only for storing cars, but also suitable for living in summer time. The residential floor should be warm, equipped with light, a toilet and a kitchen. And the second floor with gable roof can turn into a cozy attic.

The garage can also be an extension to the main house. The advantages of such a building are that you do not need to think additionally about heating and other communications, the entrance to the extension can be made directly from home. But a significant disadvantage is that exhaust gases enter the house upon arrival and departure of a car. This option is suitable for those owners who have not completed the main house, because an extension to an already finished building requires large investments and thorough preparation.

For the construction of an underground room, several conditions must be met:

• When building a deep garage, its waterproofing is considered the biggest problem. Here arrangement is required drainage system garage roofs and reinforced waterproofing of all load-bearing structures.
• The garage roof frame must be made using concrete slabs with a mandatory support system.
• The room must have an emergency exit in the event of a house collapse or fire.
• After choosing a garage design, you should decide on the material and find good suppliers of all the necessary attributes for construction.

materials

The market offers a huge range quality materials that will last a long time. Each has its own pros and cons, you should remember this and choose the option with which it will be comfortable to work.

Polycarbonate is lightweight and cheap material, but it should only be used for a small garage. For example, for shells.

If the owner prefers metal, then you can opt for sandwich panels or corrugated board. Sandwich panels in a section resemble a sandwich: there is a heater between two metal sheets. Construction is carried out in a very short time, and the design is lightweight and lends itself to any upgrades. Their price is very low, and installation can be carried out at any time of the year. But such material is short-lived, the metal frame requires rust treatment, and wooden base should be treated with antiseptic substances.

Decking is cheap, high-quality and beautiful material. Garages from corrugated board are built quite quickly. You should pay attention to the brand: it is better to choose S-20 or PS 0.5 mm thick. In no case should you take grades -8, these sheets will not last long due to poor wind resistance and low frost resistance.

A red brick construction will be much more reliable than a metal one. Such material has high frost resistance, low thermal conductivity. In terms of aesthetics brickwork looks pretty decent, but the material is expensive.

The foam block is cheap and light in weight, so one person can build from it. The only catch is that the gray blocks don't look very attractive. This problem can be solved with the help of finishing materials.

Gas silicate blocks are gaining great popularity. Despite their low weight, they have high strength, they are easy to process. Also, the blocks have low thermal conductivity, do not require additional treatment with antiseptics. With such material, you can not be afraid of the appearance of mold, bacteria and fungus.

According to ecological characteristics gas silicate blocks are on a par with natural materials.

Minus gas silicate blocks - high water absorption. The plaster layer on the walls can crack and flake off. This problem can be solved by treating the walls with penetrating primers. Since blocks are a weak base for fasteners, it will be problematic to fix massive objects. They do not have high frost resistance. The material has high rates of free lime, which allows you to activate the corrosion processes of metal inclusions: fittings, pipelines, frames and others.

Another artificial, but environmentally friendly material is cinder block. You can buy it or make it yourself. The second will require a vibroforming machine. When buying, you should pay attention to the filler. It is better to choose crushed stone, sawdust, shell rock, expanded clay. A cinder block garage is not afraid of natural disasters, it has a high fire safety, and is easily repaired. With this material, you can vary the thickness of the walls. In addition, it is not amenable to biological destruction, its price is quite small, and its service life is about 100 years. Reduces the dignity of the cinder block unpresentable appearance, complex laying of pipes and cables, high thermal conductivity.

Arbolite has been known since the times of the USSR. It is light in weight and has low thermal conductivity. It is a flame-retardant material, resistant to stretching. He is not afraid of cracks and deformations during foundation movements. It is immune to rot and mildew. The material is distinguished by high frost resistance. It's also easy to attach various designs. In such a garage there will be good sound absorption. Of the minuses - a high coefficient of water absorption - from 40 to 85%, and a rather high price.

Expanded clay block will be an assistant in the embodiment of bold design and architectural ideas. Almost all types of finishes, both internal and external, are suitable for it. The material has low thermal conductivity, it is strong and durable, with high sound insulation. The vapor permeability of the blocks creates a favorable microclimate inside the building. The process of building a garage will move quickly due to the large size of the block. And simple production contributes to an affordable price.

The downside of expanded clay blocks is the formation of cold bridges, but with the help of cladding and additional thermal insulation, the problem can be solved. The material has low water resistance, is quite heavy and requires a strong foundation, but use this building material cannot be used as a foundation.

More natural material- wood. The material is inexpensive, beautiful and allows you to perform bold design solutions. With the help of various impregnations, fire resistance can be achieved. Minus - a short service life and high thermal conductivity.

Railway sleepers are bars made of trees. A special blend that works as an antiseptic helps protect your garage from rot, bacteria, sun, moisture and small rodents. You can buy sleepers at the nearest railway department, where the tracks are being repaired. A garage made of such material will turn out to be dry and warm, able to withstand even an earthquake. But you should never build a garage from new sleepers. The smell of creosote is very dangerous, it can cause chemical burns and poisoning. The period of their use in air should be 12-30 years, during this period the mixture is washed off and loses its unpleasant odor.

The methods of manufacturing and processing sleepers are different, some products are impregnated through, while others are 2.75 centimeters. Better to use the last option. Such a building requires careful processing inside, which reduces the risk of contact with creosote residues. Outside, it is necessary to make a well-ventilated facade.

Many building materials do not have high frost resistance, so the garage needs to be insulated. The cheapest insulation is foam. It is very easy to install. But you need to remember that this is a fragile material that wears out quickly.

Another cheap heater - mineral wool. It is safe for health, has high thermal insulation and high level sound absorption. Such material must be covered with an additional layer of vapor barrier.

A more serious insulation is reflective thermal insulation. The material consists of a layer of heat insulator, covered with a metallized film on top. Of the advantages - low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation, low weight, immunity to moisture. This material is easy to install. The disadvantage is that the material has been used not so long ago and all its properties have not been studied. It is only known that this insulation is susceptible to corrosion.

Basalt cardboard is a durable material that is highly resistant to temperature extremes, deformation and moisture. The material has low heat capacity and good sound absorption, is not afraid of fire. It is not cheap, but very high quality and will last for many years.

Additional insulation of the garage will help thermal insulation paint and "warm" plaster.

Finishing the outside of the building must combine resistance to external influences environment and be presentable. The modern market offers a wide range of options that meet these conditions. The simplest and cheapest ways are jointing, plastering, siding. More expensive ways wooden lining, natural or artificial stones.

If the garage is two-story, the space between the first and second floors is covered with reinforced concrete slabs. It is desirable to do this with a hollow-core slab, because it is easier to install and low in price.

Roof covering materials can be divided into two groups: soft and hard. The former are suitable for a flat roof, and the latter for a gable roof.

The soft ones are:

• Flexible tiles. The material serves up to 55 years, is resistant to corrosion and decay and can be of any color. The material should not be used in northern regions- Under the influence of frost, it becomes brittle.
• Ruberoid. Service life - about 15 years. The material is cheap, resistant to frost and sun exposure.

• The self-leveling roof serves 22 years, is easily and quickly installed, and can be repaired. The application surface must be perfectly smooth.
• The built-up rolled roof (gidroizol, stekloizol) has been in operation for about 50 years. The material is durable, does not burn, it has good sound insulation, and is immune to temperature extremes. The only negative is the high price.

The hard ones are:

• Reinforced concrete slab - has a long service life, suitable for flat roofs, can withstand a lot of weight. On such a roof, you can even set up a garden.
• Flat slate - easy to install, inexpensive, does not lose its qualities in any climatic conditions. Its very easy to fix.

• Polycarbonate - serves for about 25 years, does not burn and does not react with solvents, low in price. Such material is easy to install, resistant to temperature extremes, but under their influence it can slightly change shape.
• Seam roof - does not require a powerful frame, durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature extremes. Cons of the material - high price, difficult installation, low sound absorption.

• SIP-3 is used for overhead lines power lines;
• SIP-4 is resistant to ultraviolet rays;
• SIP-5 is suitable for temperate and cold climates, resistant to high temperatures.

For the storage and safe movement of building materials, wooden pallets are required. A good choice would be a pallet made of white acacia, birch or boxwood.

To save money, you can buy a used pallet, the main thing is good quality.

Construction process: main stages

After creating a drawing, choosing building materials and drawing up step by step instructions construction can begin.

"Penal" and "shell" do not require a solid foundation. First you need to make several separate sections and then assemble them.

Assembly steps:

• it is necessary to drill technological holes in the structure;
• cover the finished elements with an anti-corrosion agent and paint them;
• assemble the segments into a common structure and fix;
• protect and paint all welding defects.

Electricity is available in the garage. To do this, a lamp and two sockets are installed, then the wires are passed through the corrugation. Taken for work copper wires double insulated.

The construction of a more complex structure begins with the installation of a strong foundation. For a garage, options such as a monolithic slab, pile material, tape shallow or buried foundation are suitable. If a pit or cellar is planned, then the best choice- recessed tape. A garage with a quality foundation will last a long time and will not bring problems, so more attention should be paid to this stage.

Separately, it is worth considering the construction of the pit. The size depends on the car itself. For a passenger car, a width of about 70 cm is suitable, for a truck you need to standard size add 20-25 cm. The height depends on the height of the owner of the garage, but, in any case, it is better to make the garage a little deeper.

An important element is the plinth, its height ranges from 0.5 to 2 meters. There are two types of plinth: protruding and sinking. The first option is more elegant, but it will require the construction of an additional ebb along the protruding upper edge - this prevents moisture from entering. The second option is more practical and the building receives maximum protection from moisture.

When building walls, two methods are used, it all depends on the chosen material. The first way is block building. With it, the garage will not need to be strongly insulated, but additional finishing on the outside will be required. The second way is wireframe. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or wooden beam. The advantage of this method is the rapid construction of the premises.

The next step is preparing the gate for installation. First you need to take measurements. It is necessary to measure the opening, paying attention to the distance from the right edge to the left. It is also necessary to measure the height of the lintel.

Exist different kinds garage doors: simple hinged, sectional, automatic or manual. Most car owners prefer sectional. These products are very comfortable less space, sealed and strong. But they are high in price and have a complex device.

Before equipping the gate, you need to carefully read the instructions and properly prepare the opening. If a material is light, the opening is strengthened with a special metal frame. For a brick garage, such a frame is not required.

The room needs to be vacated, this will help to cope with the assembly and installation of the gate much faster and easier.

The next stage depends on the number of floors: if the garage is two-story, then it is necessary to overlap between the first and second floors with a reinforced concrete slab and re-erect the walls.

When building a roof, you need to be careful and observe safety precautions. The easiest way - flat roof with a slight slope, about 15 cm. So it will be better to descend and drain the precipitation. The only disadvantage of such a roof is the lack of an attic.

Most car owners can build a frame garage with their own hands. It is enough to follow the basic requirements of the instructions and observe safety precautions when working.

Advantages and disadvantages of frame construction

Each garage, both capital and simplified, must perform several functions:

1. Protection of the car from weather factors and unauthorized access.
2. Holding current repair, maintenance and inspection of equipment.
3. Storage of a set of tools and spare parts.

A frame garage is not inferior in functionality to a capital brick structure and at the same time it will cost much less.

The frame of the building is often made of wood. It is easy to process, inexpensive and does not require a strong foundation. The cladding of the building is made from any suitable material: siding, corrugated board, sandwich panels, lining boards.

Among the main advantages of a do-it-yourself garage are:

1. Ease of erection. With basic skills, even a novice builder can handle the job.
2. There is no need to attract powerful specialized machinery and equipment.
3. Lightweight and durable construction. As a result, there is no need to equip a deep foundation.

The main disadvantage is the flammability of the wooden frame. To avoid fires, it is sheathed on both sides with non-combustible materials. Non-combustible mineral wool is used as a heater. In addition, wood is impregnated with flame retardants.

The frame can also be made from other materials, for example, a metal profiled pipe. As a sheathing for such a structure, five-millimeter metal profile sheets are used. Such a building is resistant to fire, but the frame requires additional treatment with anti-rust agents.

Preparation for construction: tools and materials

When choosing wood for construction, several factors must be considered:

1. Bars can be glued and solid. The first option - does not deform over time, does not require additional supports. However, its cost is many times higher than the whole one.
2. The use of non-profiled timber increases the consumption of antiseptics, flame retardants, and painting materials. Also, during processing, cracks may occur that require putty. Profiled timber has no such disadvantages.

You should carefully approach the choice of wood species. Among those suitable for the construction of a frame garage are:

1. Oak. Very strong and reliable material. High strength leads to complexity of processing, so the cut can be done by the supplier.
2. Beech. The main advantages are practicality, ease of processing, pleasant natural shades.
3. Alder is an inexpensive material that can imitate more valuable breeds. Resistant to high humidity.
4. Pine is the cheapest and most popular building material. The main disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture, susceptibility to mechanical stress.
5. Larch is ideal for regions with high humidity. It is durable and does not rot.

Also for construction you will need a set of tools:

1. Screws, slate nails and other fasteners.
2. Metal corners.
3. Decking or other material for sheathing.
4. Construction slope.
5. Screwdriver or screwdriver set.
6. Hacksaw or scissors for metal.

Dimensions and detailed drawing

The width of a standard frame garage for one car is about four meters. Length - at least 5.5, can reach up to seven. Height - 2.5–2.7 meters, excluding the roof. Specific dimensions are selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular vehicle. For example, the height of the garage for an onboard gazelle is at least three meters. Minimum distance from the car to the wall - half a meter.

The drawing shows a design focused on one car

All dimensions are approx.

When building a garage for two cars, the planned width of the building is doubled.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a frame garage with your own hands

The construction of a frame garage takes place in several stages. Each follows a certain technology and sequence of actions:

1. Building a foundation.
2. Frame assembly.
3. Roof manufacturing.
4. External and inner lining walls.
5. Gate installation.

Let's analyze the steps in more detail.

Foundation construction

The construction of a frame garage begins with careful preparation of the territory. The site allocated for development is cleared of vegetation and tree roots, and a little deepened. After that, a layer of sand is poured, pegs are installed around the perimeter of the future base and a building thread is pulled.

The outer side of the foundation must be waterproofed. For this, bituminous mastic is used. It is laid in several layers, dried, then covered with sand to the surface of the soil.

The optimal foundation for a frame garage is monolithic. It will also serve as a subfloor, which can later be sheathed with the necessary material.

Frame assembly

The garage frame is made from carefully dried wood. For its arrangement you need:

• Bars 100 * 100 mm, of which the main vertical racks and floor beams on the ceiling and floor are equipped.
• 40 mm boards required for arranging the truss system.
• 20 mm board from which the crate is created.
• Floor boards. Their thickness starts from 40 mm.

The amount of materials for the manufacture of the frame depends on the planned dimensions of the building.

The roof can be single-pitched or double-pitched

The "skeleton" of the future garage is erected after the foundation has dried. The build process goes like this:

1. The foundation is waterproofed. To do this, use the usual roofing material, pasted on bituminous mastic. This procedure protects wooden frame garage from rotting and high humidity.
2. Along the perimeter of the garage, bars of the lower trim with a thickness of 100 * 100 mm are laid. In the corners, they are connected using special dowels and notches.
3. Angular and intermediate posts are mounted on the lower trim. They are attached to the base with dowels. Additional structural strength is provided by metal corners fixed to the harness and racks with self-tapping screws. During installation, the distance between adjacent racks should be observed: it should not be less than two meters.
4. The top harness is installed. The bars are attached in a similar way, with the help of dowels and metal corners.
5. Intermediate racks and horizontal jumpers are mounted. When attaching them, it is worth focusing on the dimensions of the insulation mats: this will avoid laying additional crates. As fasteners, metal corners and self-tapping screws are used.

The floor coverings are made of a "magpie" board and mounted on an external harness. A floor board is laid on top.

When laying floor boards, cracks and cracks should be avoided.

Gate installation

Garage doors can be purchased ready-made or made independently, focusing on the size of the car. You need to know the dimensions of the structure in advance: you should leave room for the gate in the general frame of the garage. The standard sash width is 2.5 meters.

The frame of the gate is made of bars 100*100 mm. Additional rigidity is provided by transverse wooden planks. Hinges are screwed onto the vertical racks of the garage frame and gate, after which the door can be hung.

Sheathing the structure with corrugated board or similar material is carried out simultaneously with the finishing of the walls of the garage and after careful treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics.

The simplest swing design can be made independently

Installation of truss system and roof

The simplest version of the roof for a frame garage is a shed. This design is quite easy to install, inexpensive and durable.

Standard shed roof frame garage consists of several elements:

1. Rafter system. This is the base to which the rest of the elements will be attached. It also bears all the load on the roof.
2. Lathing fixed on the truss system. Represents the supporting surface on which the roofing will be installed.
3. insulating materials. Their function is to protect the premises from rain and snow, as well as to retain heat inside the garage.
4. Roof covering.

During the construction of the frame, one of the walls of the garage is made higher than the rest. This is required to ensure optimal roof pitch. As a rule, it does not exceed 25 degrees.

First of all equipped rafter system. For small garages designed for one car, a simplified design with horizontal beams laid along or across the garage space is suitable. From the point of view of economy, the most appropriate would be transverse placement: short beams can be laid.

The distance between the rafter beams should not exceed a meter. Otherwise, the structure will not be strong enough, and as a result it will deform. After installation on the frame base, the beams are fixed using metal corners and screws.

The next stage is the flooring of the crate. For this, a cut or unedged board, also called a shalyovka, is used. The second option is considered optimal: the material will cost much less, and after the final finishing it is quite difficult to distinguish it from its analogue.

If a shalyovka is used to create a crate, it must be cleaned of bark. The boards are laid on the rafter bars, perpendicular to them, and fastened with screws. In the process of work, it is necessary to ensure that there are no large gaps.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the crate. It protects the garage from rain. As waterproofing material a roofing material or roofing film (for example, a hydrobarrier) can be used.

Roofing material is laid from the bottom up, overlapping. The sheets should overlap each other by a few centimeters. Thanks to this, water that gets under the roofing will roll down from the roof and not penetrate onto the boards. The material is nailed to the crate with ordinary nails. The subroofing film is laid in the same way; stainless steel staples or nails are used for fastening.

The main stages are indicated

The final stage - laying roofing. The choice of material is quite large:

1. Decking. Durable, weather resistant. One of the main advantages is the possibility of reuse.
2. Slate. Durable material with a service life of up to 40 years. Due to the high cost, its use is not always justified for finishing small garages.
3. Metal tile is a modern roof covering, more often used for finishing capital stone buildings.
4. Roll covers. Inexpensive materials, easy to install, durable and reliable. The average service life of roofing material is 12-15 years, which is offset by a small price.

Roofing installation begins with bottom row. Fastening takes place using slate nails or screws. The sheets are overlapped, as a result, there will be four of them on one nail. A few more nails are nailed along the edges to prevent the slate from lifting in strong winds.

Warming and lining

Before carrying out work on the final sheathing of the frame garage, the wooden frame must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After that, you can proceed with the installation.

The outer skin of a frame garage is most often performed using a metal profile. It is a strong and durable material, resistant to fire and weather factors. For wall cladding, a metal profile is suitable, in the marking of which there are letters C or PS.

Profile sheets are attached to the frame using special hexagonal self-tapping screws. The work is as follows:

1. A sheet of metal profile is applied to the corner post, aligned with the construction plumb line.
2. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower wave of the corrugated board. This is necessary for the initial fixation of the material.
3. The second sheet is laid. The overlap should be one wave. After that, both products are fastened together with self-tapping screws to the frame. For each square meter 5-6 screws are required.
4. If necessary, the metal profile can be cut with a jigsaw or scissors for cutting metal. Do not use a grinder or similar devices: the polymer surface of the sheets burns, which leads to corrosion and a decrease in useful properties material.

The same metal profile sheets marked H or PC can be used as roofing. Installation is carried out from the bottom up, overlapping the wave, for fastening, hexagonal self-tapping screws with sealing washers are used.

If desired, the frame garage can be insulated. For this you can take stone wool, made in the form of original mats. The warming process takes place in stages:

1. On the inner part windproof film is attached to the walls.
2. Mats are placed in the free space between the posts.
3. From above, the insulation is sheathed with boards or sheet iron.

Standard insulation and metal profiles can be replaced with ready-made sandwich panels. These are prefabricated structures, consisting of a profiled coating on one side, a flat metal sheet on the other, and an insulating layer between them.

Video: Construction of a frame garage

Using the above rules, you can build a frame garage with your own hands. This will not require large expenditures of finance, effort and time. It is enough to determine in advance the size and materials of the building.

Garage appears in some areas earlier at home. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put the car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start by choosing a location.

Location selection

Choosing a place for a garage not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the building does not spoil the appearance of the site. Immediately you need to decide whether it will be freestanding or attached to a house or other building on the site.

• Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the site is such that the access roads take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or make the garage door open directly onto the street.
• Being part of the building. It can be a house or a hozblok, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or attached later. Good if the house is built close to the border of the site. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and pull additional communications.

With independent construction, the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. Cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a place, it must be borne in mind that the distance to the neighbor's site must be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also normalized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.

The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options

Dimensions and designs

First you need to decide for what purpose the garage will be used. If this is just a parking lot, the dimensions can be done back to back - add one meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. That's enough for a parking lot. If the garage will also be held repair work you need a lift or viewing hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same in front. At the back, half a meter is still enough. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. Restrictions only in the available space and the budget for construction.

With or without hole

The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. It depends on how and what kind of foundation you will make. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. The option is attractive, but expensive and requiring large volumes of earthworks.

The second option is more economical: only a pit 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm more than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.

The floor in the garage without a pit is even easier to implement. Then it just fills up without any problems.

Foundation for a garage

The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, even a tape, even a pile-grillage. Another issue is that you still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to immediately make a monolithic reinforced slab and not make the foundation first, and then the floor.

Tape - monolithic and prefabricated

Pile or pile-grillage

An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in its pure form under the garage is not very suitable - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check-in, you can use it. He and a pile-grillage with a low grillage are an excellent option for heaving soils (clay, loams with a high level of groundwater).

The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation

In the manufacture of a pile-grillage around the perimeter, a shallow pit is dug in the form of a tape (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, in increments of 1.5-2 meters, wells are drilled below the freezing depth of the soil, formwork is inserted into them ( plastic pipe or rolled roofing felt). Three or four bars of reinforcement are placed inside the formwork with a release of 70 cm and poured with concrete. After that, the formwork is placed on the tape and the reinforcing cage for the tape is knitted, connecting it with the reinforcement of the piles. And it is also filled with concrete.

Monolithic slab

Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter, it is made larger than the dimensions of the garage by at least 30 cm. They remove the soil, digging a foundation pit 40-45 cm deep. Level the bottom, pour a layer of gravel. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is well rammed, using a vibrating plate if possible.

Formwork is placed along the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.

What are the walls made of?

Most of the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. It can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they are warm in themselves and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: a small stove is enough to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice it is necessary exterior finish. It is usually made the same as at home or as similar as possible.

The second popular garage wall construction technology is frame. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam impregnated with flame retardants (flammability-reducing additives). Sheathing can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are flammable and cannot be called reliable, but if you need cheap garage, for example, to give, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.

Gates

Garage doors can be swing, retractable, lifting. Swing - the simplest and well-known to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).

Heating and insulation of the garage

If you plan to use the garage all year round, it is necessary either to immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or to insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or ordinary foam). There is another option for non-combustible insulation, which in the case of a garage is just a great option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the racks of the frame. Non-flammable, inexpensive, keeps heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame racks, so you can mount it on them.

There are two types of organization of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. The constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If done separately - it's the same house system, only to a lesser extent. It turns out expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and controlled.

One of the options to organize heating in the garage is to hold on to a branch from the house. But it’s also not easy here: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of land work for its laying, and, preferably, not just into the ground, but into the sewer.

Periodic heating - stoves such as bourgeois stoves and their modifications. You can heat them with firewood, all sorts of combustible rubbish, which is usually enough. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove for testing - there is a lot of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described with the article "".

This type of heating is the easiest to organize: he put a stove and a fire, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come to a cold garage and melt it until it starts to warm up ...

Drawings and diagrams

Photo reports from construction

Often the essence technological processes it is difficult to understand from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help to put everything in its place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and are built quickly. A few examples are given below.

Wooden frame garage

The garage was built 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo 4 * 2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, impregnated with an antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.

The foundation is made columnar. Wells with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm were made with a manual drill. Sleeves made of roofing material were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and they were filled with concrete.

Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to put up the walls. The bottom harness was assembled first. Used timber 150 * 100 mm. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.

The problem turned out to be a bunch with plastic fittings. Not really good idea: they drilled holes under it, but it’s not clear how to fix it further. Anchors were fixed in concrete (two per pole), and holes with reinforcement were filled with epoxy. Whether they will help or not is not clear, but we hope to somehow keep it.

Further, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter step). They must be placed strictly up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable - bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. One was exposed, fixed with temporary braces, then nailed, moved on to the next. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). Fastened to nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.

So that the free ends of the lower harness do not move apart, they were temporarily fastened with a board.

After installing all the racks, logs were attached below. They gave rigidity, and it is needed, as we will climb up and fasten the upper trim.

We continue to collect the frame of the garage

When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the truss system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).

Having collected the required number of trusses, they installed them on the upper harness. They fixed it with pieces of boards to the racks on both sides, then they hammered it with nails, reinforced it with corners on self-tapping screws.

The rafters must also be placed exactly up, otherwise the roof will be taken away in winter. Therefore, how correctly it is worth checking often: before scoring, and after ....

After everything was installed and fixed, the crate was laid. A board 40 * 150 mm went on it, it was laid with a gap of 40 cm.

A corrugated board was stuffed on the crate.

We started to make the gate fastening area. Installed a beam at the top and sides.

The gates will be lift-and-turn. Under them, a frame is cooked inside, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a profile pipe 25 * 50 mm according to the size of the opening (with a small gap).

It is necessary to fasten the sheets with a gap of about 10 mm. For moisture-temperature expansion.

There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Rubble was poured inside until the floor was poured, but the car can already be parked, as well as drinking tea in the gazebo))

Do-it-yourself garage on a strip foundation

Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. They were built on sandy soil with a low location of groundwater. Because the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, put up the formwork, tied the reinforcing cage. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.

Inside the tape, they took out excess soil, leveled the foundation pit. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was shed and rammed (with a vibrating plate).

Packed sand

A polyethylene film was laid on top (for waterproofing), a metal mesh was laid and poured with M300 concrete.

The height of the screed is 10 cm. They left it to set for 2 weeks. Then we started putting up the frame. Boards 50 * 150 mm went to the frame itself and the rafter system, struts and jibs are made of 100 * 25 mm.

In the corners, additional boards were placed - for reinforcement. Racks are also reinforced in the places where doors and windows are attached. Installation step! walks ”- the dimensions are small, but you need either a door block or a window block. I divided the rest as it turned out, but did not do more than 60 cm.

The truss system was assembled immediately. Since the supporting beams passed in the middle, the rafter legs rested on them. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. For reinforcement at the attachment points, metal mounting plates and corners were used. They were put on self-tapping screws, the frame elements were connected with a long nail.

A windproof membrane is stuffed on top of the frame. On it is a crate of an inch board, the pitch of the crate is about 50 cm.

After stuffing the membrane and the crate, the installation of the outer skin of the garage began. This is a metal profile on the walls and ondulin on the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size, fasten with self-tapping screws.

Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nail the crate, we mount the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving up.

It takes longer to fiddle with filing overhangs. They were sewn up with perforated siding (remains from building a house). Installed dry wood wind board 145*20 mm, painted in White color.

Installed wooden windows, painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will later be replaced and put in a barn. Corners trimmed wooden board 145*20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.

Almost the result: more gates and insulation

The entrance was prepared: on the one hand, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other hand, they were supported by a board. They fell asleep with screenings, tamped. The entrance is ready.

Roller blinds were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became merciless, therefore a cheaper option was installed.