Restoration of a cast-iron bath with your own hands: the choice of material for coating and the principle of application. Do-it-yourself bathroom enamel restoration Do-it-yourself restoration of an old cast-iron bathtub

Liquid acrylic - modern material, with which you can qualitatively restore the bathroom with your own hands. It consists of a base having a sufficiently high density and a hardener. Can be used to restore steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Materials and tools

To restore the bath, you will need bulk liquid acrylic, plumbing cleaners and degreasers, soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bath sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.

You need to prepare a tool for work:

• grinder;
• drill;
• whisk nozzle;
• pliers;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes;
• rubber spatula;
• respirator;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• sponge
• gloves;
• torch.

When using a drill to sand the surface of the tub, you will need special nozzle.
Note: a building hair dryer and a clerical knife will come in handy for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored to it.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).

Bath preparation

The quality of training will depend appearance and service life of the applied coating. First, the overflow and drain are removed. A grinder or a drill with a grinding nozzle must carefully treat the surface of the bath. To do this, use sandpaper to rough work 40-N or 32-N (according to GOST 3647-80). Emery will help remove the resulting water deposits. The surface after sanding should be rough to ensure good adhesion of liquid acrylic.

Note: non-factory enamel, applied earlier for the restoration of the bath, is removed with a clerical knife after heating with a hair dryer.

The bathtub needs to be cleaned and washed off the remnants of debris. Then the surface is treated with a sanitary ware cleaner - the poured agent must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bath, including the installation site of the removed overflow.

The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, proceed to the next milestone work - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and carefully rubbed with coarse sandpaper over the entire surface.

Maybe degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You have to work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a jet of water from the shower.

Before the beginning next stage you need to remove the siphon.

The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.

The faucet and shower are covered with a bag and fixed with adhesive tape - water should not get on the applied layer of bulk liquid acrylic until it dries completely. Tiles and shelves above the bathroom rag are cleaned of dust particles. Sanding dust must not be allowed to get on acrylic.

After completing this stage, the bath must be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Particular attention is paid to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the side and restore the bath without it. The cement seams at the junction with the bathroom are well dried with a hair dryer.

To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), a quick-drying automotive putty is used.

The composition is stirred and rubber spatula applied to damaged areas, then allowed to dry.

While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathroom and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are fixed with adhesive tape.

So when pouring, liquid acrylic will not spoil the floor and wall tiles.
After the putty dries, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. A vacuum cleaner removes dust particles from the bath.

With a degreaser (acetone) wipe the places of putty cracks and chips. It is also necessary to wipe with acetone the places where the overflow and siphon are installed. A container is installed under the drain hole (you can use a cropped plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.

Coating

After completion of the preparatory work, they begin to prepare liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed with a drill with a whisk attachment.

It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. Stir the composition for 10 minutes.
Important! Do not forget about the pot life of the finished mixture, which is indicated on the package. During this time, you need to complete the work.
Before pouring, the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. Required to work plastic container into which acrylic is poured. You can use a cut and well-wiped hardener bottle. Work is performed in medical gloves.
Note: adding color paste will allow you to get the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of total weight composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.

Going lower, they help themselves with a rubber spatula, with which acrylic is rubbed into the surface of the bath. Having achieved full coverage with liquid acrylic, a spatula makes zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.

The bath is left for 5 minutes. The light is turned off and using a flashlight, the surface of the bath is checked for defects or irregularities (streaks) that need to be leveled with a spatula.

Important! When mixing the composition, air bubbles could form. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is blown with a hair dryer at low speed with quick movements.
After 10 minutes, the surface is checked again with a flashlight. The bath can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until then, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on specifications material and temperature regime in room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.

Summary of work

As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. The tub needs to be cleaned after every use. by special means for the care of acrylic, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.

Pros and cons

Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:

• long service life;
• beautiful appearance;
• smooth surface;
• lovely performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
• possibility of restoration in the future.

The bathtub after the restoration will be practically in no way inferior to the new bathtub.
The disadvantages of this technology include:

• long time required for complete drying of the surface;
• specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
• the need to purchase bathroom care products.

Tricks at work

A high-quality bath surface will be obtained when the composition is applied in a uniform thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour the second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. So the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.

A cast-iron bathtub is a solid, durable plumbing fixture with an almost inexhaustible repair potential. If a small crack or chip appears on the surface of the enamel, it is not at all necessary to buy a new product that costs at least 10-12 thousand rubles, it is quite possible to restore the appearance and functionality of the bowl by repairing cast iron bath with your own hands. In this article, we will cover 3 effective ways restoration plumbing equipment from cast iron.

Preparation for repair

If a crack, chip, abrasions appear on the enamel, and the bath itself turns yellow and becomes rough, there is no need to postpone repairs. In order for the restoration result to last longer and withstand mechanical stress, contact with water and temperature changes, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface for work. Preparatory stage, as a rule, takes more than half of the time and effort spent on do-it-yourself enamel restoration. It consists of the following operations:

Important! Before starting work on the repair of plumbing equipment, it is necessary to assess the feasibility of the event. If the damage is single, then you can repair the bath with your own hands. In case of extensive damage and the presence of through holes, it is better to contact a professional.

chip repair

A small chip with a diameter of up to 2 cm or a crack is the result of mechanical impacts or point impacts, it is the most common damage that can be easily repaired locally with your own hands. It is better to repair such damage immediately after they are discovered using a special putty and enamel. The technology for sealing chips is as follows:

Please note that local repair chips on the surface of the enamel gives a temporary effect, only pushing back the time of more global events. Aerosol enamels hold worse, but they are much easier to use.

Painting

If there are a lot of chips and cracks on the surface of the enamel, and rusty and limescale deposits are added to them, it will not be possible to repair the bath with a patch with your own hands. To restore the original appearance of the old, badly damaged, staining is applied. Before applying dyes, the bowl is cleaned of dirt, the enamel coating is removed, degreased, and then thoroughly dried. For painting use the following tools:

Note! To paint the bath with your own hands, it is better to use liquid acrylic, as it is applied much easier and more evenly than epoxy enamel. The disadvantage of this method is the high cost and long drying time.

Mounting the acrylic liner

If on the surface old bath not one small crack, but multiple chips and deformations, it can be repaired using a special acrylic insert. Acrylic liner in shape exactly repeats the geometry of the old bowl, it is inserted inside it, and then fixed with adhesive polyurethane foam and sealant. The disadvantages of this method are considered.

Many apartments still have old bathtubs. We do not change them for many reasons, but one of the main ones is financial costs. In this article, we will look at several ways that will allow you to restore the original appearance of the bath while saving on the work of dismantling and installing the bathroom.

Over the years, the bath may lose its original luster, become rough and have scratches from various objects. Rust spots often appear on old bathtubs, which significantly spoil the interior of your home.

Buying a new bathtub can be the way to go, but a complete replacement often requires remodeling the entire bathroom, which is time and money.

Ways to restore the bath

In order to save money and time, it is worth considering restoring bathtubs on your own.

To date, the most popular are the three main methods for restoring the coating of old bathtubs:

1. Bulk acrylic method - a pre-prepared bath surface is poured with a two-component composition based on acrylic and a hardener. In this way, you can not only update the coating, but also hide some flaws in the form of irregularities.
   To be applied by pouring the surface, starting from the top, without using a brush.
   In general, there are several types of acrylic for bathtubs - liquid acrylic, self-leveling glass and acrylic coating, they all have some differences, but in general, the application technology is the same for everyone.
2. Enameling - this method already uses enamel, preferably with a hardener, but unlike acrylic, it is applied with a brush. It is more difficult to make a surface without smudges than acrylic, but it is more profitable at a cost.
3. The use of acrylic liners - this method does not require liquid work, except for cleaning the bath itself. It is considered the fastest and not easily soiled of the rest.

Each of these methods differs in the process and cost, but they are all similar in that after the work, according to all the rules, you will have a bath as if only from a store.

In addition, doing the restoration with your own hands, you will save the family budget, you will be completely sure that everything is done according to the rules and gain invaluable experience in self-repairing your apartment.

Preparing the bath for restoration

Whether you decide to restore your bathtub with liquid acrylic, enamel, or using a liner, you need to carefully prepare the surface.

All preparation work is carried out in order to increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the old surface with the new material. Because the more responsibly you approach the cleaning stage, the better the finish coating you will get.

To clean the surface of the bath from the old coating, you will need:

• an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of a metal brush or a grinding wheel (as an option, use a grinder with nozzles, but it will be safer to work with a drill);
• if there is no electric drill, then coarse-grained sandpaper (it is better to add more abrasive powder);
• respirator with goggles;
• vacuum cleaner or broom;
• degreaser;
• rust converter, if there is at least a small spot of rust that has appeared, then it is necessary.

Removal of the old coating is carried out in the following sequence:

Enamel restoration

The oldest of all the rest, since the baths were enameled at the factory, the enamel coating was restored. That's just plain enamel is not suitable for this. A special bath enamel is used, which does not contain harmful substances released when heated.

Enamel is applied in several layers, sometimes their number reaches 4, for a more thorough removal of all defects in the bath.

Advantages of this method:

• One of the cheapest.
• It is not necessary to carry out dismantling work, it can be used even if the edges of the bathtub are recessed into the tiles, only drains will need to be removed.
• Suitable for the restoration of both cast iron and thin iron.

Flaws:

• Short service life of the coating compared to other restorations.
• Enamels turn yellow over time.
• Hardened enamel can chip off from strong blows.
• A long process of solidification and rejection (the bath can be used no earlier than after 5-6 days).
• Up to 3-4 coats may be required to cover uneven tubs, but is not guaranteed to be ideal.

The amount you will spend using this method depends on the material you will be using and the size of your tub. Material for a standard bath up to 1.5 m. will take from 2000 rubles. (Russian manufacturers), up to 4000 rubles. (foreign companies).

Application process

Some masters do not dismantle drains during coating, this is not correct, why do you need the additional cost of replacing the siphon and the difficulty of cleaning pipes from paint? Therefore, dismantle the drain and place an unnecessary basin or jar under the hole where the remnants will drain. Lay several layers of newspaper along the edges of the bathtub on the floor; washing the floor from paint is an extremely unpleasant and long procedure.

• It is better to apply enamel on a heated surface, so while you are warming up the bath, prepare the material, mix the enamel with the hardener in the indicated proportions.

Any working composition has its own working time for application, consider this when preparing the material. It is better to break the composition into 2 parts and mix them in stages so that the enamel does not have time to harden in the container while you apply the first layer.

Advice: it is best to use hard flute (flat) brushes at least 70 mm wide with natural bristles for application. When applying, carefully monitor the fallen hairs, remove them immediately, it is convenient to do this with a clerical knife.

• Place, for convenience, a container of paint at the bottom of the tub. With a brush, carefully work the edges of the tub with a thin layer. This layer acts as a primer and fills the small dimples of the surface.
• After processing the edges, we begin to apply paint to the sides of the bath. We dip the brush into the container and draw a strip from the top edge to the bottom, then stretch the strip in transverse directions, thus applying a uniform layer of small thickness. We process the entire bath around the perimeter.
• The next step is to carefully process the bottom of the bath, Special attention paying attention to the installation site of the drain.
• Then we apply the second layer in the same sequence as the first, without waiting for the paint to dry (this is the wet-on-wet method). We rub this layer also carefully so that smudges do not form.
• We dilute the rest of the paint and apply the last layer of enamel in the same sequence - from top to bottom, then stretch the paint evenly from the strip to the sides, and again several times from top to bottom in the stretched area.
• Control the layer of enamel, too thick a layer will definitely leak. The control is carried out with a brush, if it glides too easily, then the layer is thick, disperse it with a brush from top to bottom.
• Pour the rest of the paint into the bath and spread it evenly over the bottom with a brush.
• After applying the last layer, wait 10-15 minutes and check the entire surface for smudges. Smudges are smeared with a brush, but only with movements from the bottom up. Periodically check the bath a few more times until the enamel has set enough to not leak.
• Rinse all paint off all tools and leave the bath to dry for 4-6 days. In no case do not start using the bathroom earlier, you will nullify all your work.

Do not attach the siphon to the drain until the enamel is completely dry, otherwise the siphon bowl will stick tightly and the next time it is repaired or replaced, you will damage the enamel when removing the bowl.
Also, be sure to trim the drops of enamel on the outside of the drain hole, otherwise the siphon will not fit tightly and the bath will leak.

Restoration by poured acrylic

This type of restoration differs from enameling in the method of application, it does not require the use of a brush, acrylic is applied by pouring over the surface.

A rubber or metal spatula can be used to spread the acrylic evenly over the surface of the tub.

Pros and cons of this method

Advantages:

• Drying time of the coating - the bath can be used after 1.5-5 days.
• Unlike the liner, there is no adhesive gap between the acrylic and the bath, which significantly increases the strength of the coating.
• Acrylic does not turn yellow over time and is resistant to various acidic environments.
• Suitable for the restoration of cast iron and iron bathtubs.
• Long service life of the coating correct application and care up to 10-15 years)

Flaws:

• Acrylic is afraid of high temperatures, it starts to melt from 160 degrees, of course we don’t wash ourselves in such boiling water, but there are cases when acrylic was deformed by exposure to boiling water from a tap (this is rather true for acrylic coating fakes).
• Acrylic care requires the use of special detergents.
• The mechanical brittleness of acrylic can lead to cracks when heavy objects are dropped into the tub.

In terms of financial costs, it does not differ much from enamelling; you will spend from 3,000 to 5,000 rubles on the restoration of a bathtub.

Application process

• Protect the surrounding space from possible contamination with acrylic, lay several layers of newspapers or films on the floor, cover the walls along the edges of the bathtub with masking tape, be sure to remove the siphon. If you still have a Soviet metal harness installed, but dismantle it completely and later replace it with modern removable ones.
  Moisture can accumulate at the joints between the wall and the bathroom, use a hair dryer to expel water from all the cracks so that it does not spoil the coating.
  Substitute an unnecessary container under the drain hole to collect the leaking acrylic.
• Pour the hardener into a container with acrylic and mix thoroughly, poorly mixed acrylic with hardener can cause yellow spots in the future, so pay special attention to this step.
• Using a cut bottle or plastic cup, pour the acrylic onto the sides of the tub, starting at the farthest corner from you, so that it flows down freely.
• We pour acrylic around the entire perimeter of the bath, trying to avoid large accumulations of it in one place.

• The joint with the wall can be corrected with a spatula.
• When you have spilled all the edges, pour the side opposite from you, and then the one closest to you.
• With a rubber spatula, spread the acrylic over the entire surface of the sides, do not be afraid to lift the acrylic to the top, it flows perfectly.
• When the entire surface of the bath is filled with acrylic, carefully inspect it for the presence of bubbles, remove the existing bubbles by bursting them with the tip of a metal spatula or using a brush for this (small grooves from the brush should be tightened due to the fluidity of the acrylic).
• With a metal spatula, work the entire bottom of the tub in a Z-shape to densify the acrylic.
• Use a spatula to collect drops on the edge of the tub.
• Leave the coating to dry for at least 2 days.

Advice: when the entire surface is ready, it can be leveled with a hair dryer, only using cold air!

In the video you can clearly see the process of working with bulk acrylic.

Restoration with acrylic liners

This method appeared even earlier than the previous one, its essence lies in the fact that an insert is selected into the bath, which most accurately repeats the shape of the bath. that liner is attached to a special glue.

Pros and cons of this method

Advantages:

• The strength of the acrylic liner.
• Does not yellow over time.
• The surface does not require leveling, it is initially perfectly flat.
• Availability of various shades.

Flaws:

• Not suitable for installation in iron and thin cast iron baths due to the tendency to bend.
• Due to the presence of a glue line, the acrylic insert can move away over time under the influence of variable loads.
• It cannot be installed in a bath, the edges of which are covered with tiles; it will be necessary to carry out dismantling work.
• The presence of irregularities on the bath can be a weak point for the liner.

Insert installation process

Finally, the glue will grab no earlier than 10 days, at that time try to exclude excessive pressure on the edges of the bath, otherwise the liner may be deformed or warped. But you can safely take a bath these days, only carefully.

Be sure to watch the video, which clearly shows the process of installing an acrylic liner in the bath.

If you have any questions or wishes, you can ask them in the comments below.

A cast iron bath is a long-term item. But over time, even the highest quality coating loses its visual appeal. Changing a cast iron bath is troublesome, so the question arises, how to repair a cast iron bath?

Of course, bathroom renovation is a rather time-consuming task and requires patience. However, many choose to refurbish rather than upgrade their bathtub to a new model. There are three main ways to restore the appearance of the bath. Let's consider each of them.

Application of new enamel

To complete the work you will need:

• Drill with a nozzle for removing the old coating.
• Oxalic acid.
• Composition for degreasing the surface.
• Enamel.
• Enamel brush.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

• The surface of the bath is cleaned of the layer of the old enamel. The easiest way to do this is with a drill with the appropriate nozzle.
• If there is a water stone on the surface, it should be removed with oxalic acid.
• The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased.

To make it easier to collect dust, you should cover all surfaces in the bathroom with old newspapers or sheets.

• In the prepared bath should be dialed hot water and wait ten minutes. After that, drain the water, and wipe the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry well.
• Prepare the enamel by mixing the main component with the hardener.
• Apply the first layer of enamel on a dry bath surface. Allow 20-30 minutes to dry.
• Apply the second and third coat, remembering to allow time to dry.
• The last fourth layer is reinforcing. After its application, the repair can be considered complete.

It will be possible to use the bathroom after applying the enamel no earlier than three days later.

Bathtub refinishing and refinishing

What is good about this method?

• It allows you to change the color of the bath at your discretion, choosing the right shade.
• The work can be successfully completed independently, even with modest experience in construction.

The disadvantages of this restoration method are much greater:

• The method is laborious, in the process of cleaning the enamel a lot of dust is generated.
• The resulting coating cannot be compared in terms of strength with enameling in the factory. C will need to be handled with extreme care, but even in this case, the new coating will last no more than 20 months.

Using an Acrylic Liner

Bathtub renovation with acrylic liner

To complete this work you will need:

• Inlay made of sanitary acrylic according to the size of the bathtub.
• Mounting two-component foam or special mastic.
• Silicone sealant.

This recovery method is one of the simplest and most effective. To implement it, you should purchase an acrylic bath liner.

You can achieve a good result only if the acrylic liner is of high quality. Therefore, when buying, you should definitely require the presentation of a certificate.

Repair procedure:

• First you need to prepare the liner by making holes in it for draining and overflowing.
• The space near the holes made is lubricated with sealant.
• The liner is fixed in place with two-component foam or special mastic.
• The foam should be applied evenly over the entire surface of the liner, otherwise voids will occur in which the acrylic will sag.
  The consequence of such a flaw will be the rapid appearance of cracks.

Advantages of this method:

• can be carried out without much labor and quickly enough.
• Provided that a high quality liner has been used, the bath will last a long time.
• The surface of the acrylic liner is smooth and shiny, it is resistant to wear and does not lose color during operation.

The disadvantages include the need to work before finishing the walls in the room. Otherwise, you will have to beat off the tiles located around the perimeter of the bath.

Using Liquid Acrylic or the "Pouring Bath" Method

Bathroom renovation with liquid acrylic

To perform restoration in this way, you will need special compound- liquid acrylic, which is sold under the brand name "Stakryl". In fact, this method is similar to enameling a bath, but the material consumption is an order of magnitude greater, which means that the layer of the new coating will be thicker. Due to the use of a modern hardener, the material spreads evenly over the surface, so it does not need to be distributed manually.

Using this method, as with the application of enamel, careful surface preparation will be required. It will be necessary to thoroughly clean the bath from the old coating, degrease, wash and dry it.

Acrylic coating, unlike enamel, is not applied with a brush, but is poured over the surface (hence the name of the method). Filling begins from the upper sides, then the walls are processed in the lower part and, last but not least, the bottom.

When performing this work, it is required to disconnect the bathroom drain and place a container under the drain hole into which excess material will drain. This ensures that the acrylic is applied evenly.

The coating layer will be about 6 mm. It will be possible to use the bathroom 3-4 days after the completion of the work, as the new coating should have time to dry well.

The disadvantages of this method is its laboriousness, but the coating is better and more durable than when using enamel. This coating is more resistant to mechanical damage, and the large range of colors of the Stakryl material allows you to choose the shade of the bath to your taste.

By applying one of the methods described above, you can successfully repair an old cast-iron bathtub. Of course, if you plan to carry out repairs on your own, then this work will require time and significant labor costs. However, restoration is still cheaper and easier than replacing a bathtub.

After all, cast iron is a very heavy metal, and it is extremely difficult to transport and install bathtubs from this material. If there is no desire or opportunity to carry out restoration work on your own, you can place an order in companies that are engaged in the restoration of the enamel of old bathtubs.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Over time, any plumbing wears out and loses its original appearance. Rust, chips, scratches, cracks, loss of gloss and whiteness are inevitable consequences of daily use and improper care. Do-it-yourself bath restoration can restore a decent look to old plumbing. In order for the renovation of the bath to take place with the least cost and effort, you need to have a good understanding of the algorithm of this procedure at home, understand how to restore the bath, how to paint the inside of the bath, what products to choose.

There are three ways to restore a bathtub on your own. Depending on its initial state, you can choose one of them:

1. Enamelling.
2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.
3. Insert installation.

Bathtub enameling

Enameling a bath with your own hands is a feasible procedure for any owner. To understand how to restore the enamel of the bath, you need to pay attention to the condition of the container.

Repair of cast iron or steel bath using enamel is justified if there are no deep chips and cracks. Otherwise, the enamel, even applied in 2-4 layers, will not hide serious damage.

How to restore a cast-iron bath yourself at home? When choosing how to paint the bath inside, preference should be given to high-quality epoxy enamel from trusted manufacturers, guided by the following criteria:

• The choice of enamel application method: brush, roller, aerosol or bulk method. The most acceptable are the application with a brush or bulk, since the roller can give an unnecessary porous texture, and aerosol spray can be used only in the case of repair of individual areas.
• Completeness of a set for restoration of a covering. It is convenient to purchase a kit, which includes everything you need for repairs - enamel, auxiliary components, application tools and compositions for preparing the bath.

Important! High-quality epoxy enamel, due to its thick consistency, is able to create a smooth, even surface and repair small chips. But it is worth understanding that self repair baths at home are inferior to the industrial method of applying enamel: there may be a change in the color of the new enamel, increased vulnerability to impacts and chips, and restrictions on care products.

Self-enamelling of the bath takes place in two stages: preparatory work and enameling.

Enamel application

How to restore the enamel of the bath, it becomes clearer after reading the instructions for the purchased composition for enameling. Important Points here are the following:

• Composition preparation. Following the instructions, prepare the enamel by combining the active ingredient and the hardener in the required proportions.
• Coating with the first layer of enamel. Cover the surface with a thin layer of enamel using a hard wide brush, starting from the top, gradually descending deep into the bowl. You can especially carefully walk along the bottom of the bath and the drain as the most worn out places.
• Application of the second layer of enamel. A new enamel layer is applied after some time specified in the instructions. After that, it can be left to dry for 15 minutes.
• Leak correction. All detected smudges of enamel must be smeared with a brush, moving up and down and from side to side. This must be done quickly before the enamel dries.
• Re-enamelling. To achieve a more reliable result, increase the strength of the enamel and protect against new chips, a cast-iron or metal container can be painted over with one or two more layers of enamel.

And how to restore the enamel of the bath, if the chips are deep? It is necessary to repair chips with putty, polish and degrease. All chips and cracks must be carefully repaired:

• using sandpaper soaked in water, polish the edges of the chip;
• degrease cracks with a solvent or white spirit;
• dry the surface;
• apply enamel.

After enamelling, the bath should dry for 7-8 days. Proper care behind the bath should exclude the use of abrasive detergents.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

Repairing a bathtub with liquid acrylic is an easier process at home than enamelling. Acrylic is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress, unpretentious in work. With the help of liquid acrylic, you can get a beautiful smooth surface that is resistant to temperature extremes and hard water.

Due to the way the acrylic is applied, this method is sometimes referred to as a "fill bath". A do-it-yourself bulk bath is a suitable economical way to update cast iron products.

Acrylic brand "Stakryl" is often used - a two-component high-density enamel, including a base and a hardener.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath coating consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation. This process is similar to preparing for enameling: you need to clean the bath from the old coating, degrease, repair cracks.
2. Acrylic application. Having combined the components according to the instructions, acrylic is poured from a convenient container in a thin stream onto the side of the bathtub, pushing it under the edge of the tile. The acrylic layer should be approximately 4-6 mm and flow down to the middle of the container. Moving along the side, you need to pour acrylic evenly. After applying acrylic along the outer edge, continue to pour it into the middle of the container, gradually narrowing the circles and moving in a spiral. The rest of the mixture flows into the prepared container through the drain.
3. Drying. Liquid acrylic can dry from 6 to 24 hours. But still it is better not to rush to immediately use the updated bathroom, but to wait a few days.

Restoration with acrylic inlay

The third way to repair is to install an insert or "bath in a bath". It is impossible to make an insert at home, it is made industrially and is an insert that repeats the shape of the bath itself. It's uncomplicated and fast way renovate your own bathroom. But it also has disadvantages:

• Installation requires removal bottom row tiles to secure the edge of the insert.
• The impossibility of repeating the exact shape of a cast-iron bathtub with an insert. This is due to the fact that cast iron is a complex material for molding and has various depressions and protrusions, which, when the liner is installed, provoke the formation of voids. All this negatively affects the quality of the new bath.