Proper blind area is not a trifle: preparatory earthworks and drainage. Blind area with a tray. The blind area around the house: how to do it right, which option to choose? Prices for a rammer

Almost all private houses have a blind area. This is the most important part of the design, which performs many functions. For example, imagine that two owners simultaneously built a house in the same area, while one made a blind area and a drain to it, and the second decided to save money. As a result, not less than 20 years later, the second owner had problems. He will have to do a thorough repair, and even partially replace the foundation. What about the first owner? Even after 40 years, the design of the house will be as before, without violations. But in order for the blind area to serve for a long time, it is important to take care of the drainage of water through the drain.

Gutters for the blind area remove all moisture that destroys the material. In this article we will consider the device of the blind area around the house, and the installation of a drain to it.

Design features of the blind area

As you understand, the blind area is a cement or other coating around the house that protects it. Usually, it is done in two layers:

1. Lower base (litter).
2. decorative layer.

As you can see in the figure, the blind area has a certain slope. It is needed so that water flows over the surface to the drain, without lingering on it. It is there below that the installation of the drain is carried out. In addition, a downpipe is released from the roof to the blind area. In that place, you can make a drainage channel or form a groove running along the blind area towards the gutter.

Now a little about the layers of the blind area. If we talk about the base, then this is a compacted and even layer on which the decorative coating will rest. Clay, sand and gravel are used to create the underlying layer.

But the main requirement for a decorative top layer is water resistance and resistance to liquid washout. Our grandfathers made a solid pavement of clay. A shallow trench was dug around the perimeter, which was filled with clay. It was tamped down, forming a slope from the house so that water would not fall on the basement and foundation, flowing down. The clay itself was moistened to create a waterproof layer. It was the simplest blind area drainage system.

Well, in our days of the concrete era, it is he who is used for the blind area. It turns out a continuous monolithic surface in which there are no cracks. Then the water will definitely not flow to the foundation. And when you have taken care of high-quality waterproofing of the foundation of the house, then the top layer can be made of paving stones (paving slabs), crushed stone or slabs. It looks pretty nice. And so that water does not stagnate on the surface of the blind area, it is required to make a directional drain.

House without blind area and drain

And if you still decide to save money and not make a blind area and drain, what will happen? When you live in a climate where there is heavy and frequent precipitation, it is inevitable that the ground water. Add to them also water from the outside, which is not discharged anywhere in the absence of a drain, then all the liquid will penetrate into the foundation. As a result, it collapses and cracks, and the house begins to shrink, and, accordingly, the walls crack.

When a house is built on heaving soil, it is still more serious! The soil is saturated with water, in winter it all expands and begins to put pressure on the building itself. The result is clear. That is why it is important to make a blind area and drain water from it into a drain or drain.

Note! For effective water drainage, the slope of the blind area should be 5–10˚.

blind area functions

We briefly reviewed the features and arrangement of the blind area. Now it is worth paying attention to its main functions. We note 5 points with which she copes perfectly.

Now let's find out how to do it right, a drain around the blind area, directly to it and release from the roof.

Rules and materials for the installation of blind areas and drains

In order for everything to function properly, the finished coating must be free of cracks, solid and fit snugly to the building. Depth of occurrence - no more than half the depth of freezing of the soil. With regard to width, the covering should protrude at least 25 cm beyond the roof overhang. Even if the overhang is 50 cm long from the edge, the obligatory width of the blind area is 75 cm.

To do everything yourself, you will need the following tools and materials:

• quality cement;
• sand and gravel;
• concrete mixer;
• spatula or trowel;
• formwork boards;
• rule;
• shovel;
• solution container;
• spatula or trowel;
• tape measure, rope and pegs.

First, let's start with the track device.

Device steps

To simplify the task, it is better to divide all the work into steps. So, it will be easier for you to figure out what to do.

And right here important point. In places where the outlet is located, you can make a drainage channel into which water will flow, or simply create a groove along the coating through which water will flow into the same drain or drain. The photo shows how to do it.

Concrete is formed by a rule to achieve a flat surface.

Advice! To strengthen the entire structure, you can lay a mesh of reinforcement on top of the rubble. It will make the concrete stronger.

At the same time, it is necessary to ensure a slope from the house, to the outer edge. It is done in advance, even at the stage of tamping the layers. The diagram above clearly shows what this slope is. The minimum figure is 2% of the width of the finished coating. For example, when the width is 50 cm, then the slope is 1 cm.

Now it remains to wait until the concrete dries. At this time, it needs to be covered with a film so that precipitation does not damage the structure. Concrete usually dries completely within a month. After 10-15 days, the crate can be removed.

We make a drain and an outlet for the blind area

It is time to make a high-quality water drainage from the surface. To do this, you will need special gutters for the sidewalk, in the form of gutters. They will provide directional fluid drainage, and the soil and the structure of the house will not get wet. Since you have formed a slope away from the house, then along the entire perimeter of the blind area, at the edge, you need to place gutters.

The gutters themselves should also have a slope in a certain direction, for example, to a gutter pit, septic tank or sewer. Consider also the release of the pipe from the roof. A large amount of water will come from there. After all, all the liquid from the roof is directed precisely into these pipes.

For a concrete blind area, you can use a linear drain on the surface. This is a groove or gutter that is placed at the edge, around the entire perimeter. Drainage elements can be made of plastic, concrete or sawn asbestos-cement pipe. It is convenient to use ready-made drainage elements equipped with a grid and convenient attachment to each other.

The device process is as follows:

It is important that the entire drainage system is airtight, so the joints of the gutters are lubricated with sealant, and the end is closed with an end cap.

For more information about the technology of installing a drain, you will learn from this video:

In order for the water to go down the drain to the right place, it is important to foresee the drainage routes in advance. If this is a city sewer, then in a certain place you need to bring out a pipe into which water will drain. And one of the gutters of the drain, respectively, is directed towards the sewer hole. The same applies to the withdrawal to the septic tank or cesspool. Ideally, make an underground drainage system on the site. How it looks, you can see in the photo:

Conclusion

We found out that the blind area is an important part of the construction of the whole house. Thanks to her, your house will last much longer. In addition, for the proper functioning of the blind area, it is required to provide high-quality drainage. Thanks to special gutters, this can be done easily and quickly.

bouw.ru

Proper blind area is not a trifle: preparatory earthworks and drainage

Whatever the house - small, large, frame, brick or log, it always consists of the same elements: foundation, walls, roof. And if no one, probably, will object to the importance of the foundation or roof for the solidity and reliability of the structure, then many other structures may raise doubts about their necessity.

An example of such an element, which is not too necessary, in the opinion of a layman, is a blind area. About why it should be done necessarily, you can read in the publication The correct blind area is not a trifle. If you have no doubts about the need for its construction, in this article you will find an explanation of the process of arranging the correct blind area.

Blind area device technology

As mentioned earlier, the blind area serves to protect any underground structures from the penetration of precipitation: melting snow or rain. Therefore, the blind area is made not only around the foundation of the building. With its help, water is diverted from the well, fence, cellar.

The blind area consists of two parts: the underlying layer and the coating. The design of the blind area can be prefabricated (from large-format reinforced concrete products) or with a cast solid coating of concrete, asphalt or asphalt concrete. Actually, it is this type of blind area that is called blind area in everyday life.

Although there is another type - a soft blind area. Its coating is made of bulk materials of a large fraction (crushed stone, gravel, pebbles), turf or paving stones on a sandy base.

In a hard blind area, the waterproof layer is the outer coating. In a soft layer of waterproofing, protecting the underlying layers and the foundation, is below - under the turf or coating of bulk materials.

In general, the principles of the rigid and soft blind area similar, but there are differences, so consider both options. And let's start over: the construction of both types begins with earthworks.

Excavation

However, digging a ditch can be avoided if you are only building a house. In the case of new construction, there is often already a foundation pit, so the foundation is open and no additional excavation is required. In other cases, excavation is carried out around the perimeter of the building.

The scheme of backfilling of the sinuses of the foundation and the device of the blind area The width of the blind area is determined by the project. The minimum width for a private house is allowed 500-600 mm, for mass construction in SNiP III-10-75 a figure of 700 mm is indicated. The blind area should be wider than the roof overhangs by at least 150-200 mm.

If the blind area doubles as a track, the optimal width is 1100-1200 mm. A wide structure is also necessary in the case of construction on subsiding soils (porous, having unstable physical and mechanical characteristics). In general, the wider you make, the better: water drainage will be more efficient.

Trench for blind area. Photo from givoydom.ru

The trench should be made wider than the planned blind area for the convenience of mounting the formwork and installing, if necessary, curbstones. The fertile soil layer is removed to dense layers of soil, for example, to a clay layer, but not less than 300 mm. The base of the trench is leveled and compacted.

If there is a foundation pit, the foundation is waterproofed and backfilling begins.

Backfilling the pit. Photo from studopedia.ru

1 - foundation; 2 - basement wall; 3 - waterproofing; 4 - asbestos cement flat sheets; 5 - concrete floor of the basement; 6 - manual soil compaction zone; 7 - boundary of backfilling of drainage with sand; 8 - drainage pipe; 9 - backfilling the drainage with crushed stone; 10 - soil layers compacted with light mechanical rammers; 11 - blind area; 12 - ventilation box; 13 - ceiling of the basement; 14 - wall. After the backfilling of the sinuses of the foundation with an intermediate rammer is completed to a level of 300-350 mm below the design mark, you can begin to create a blind area. Further work depends on which version of the blind area - soft or hard - is chosen.

Blind area without drainage - money down the drain

Before proceeding to the consideration of the next stages of creating a blind area (the device of the underlying and covering layers), I want to dwell separately on an important point - drainage. It must be borne in mind that the blind area is part drainage system.

This is not just a beautiful path around the house. The blind area is an important element of the water drainage system from the site, in particular, the drainage of the house. You can read more about this in the article Drainage systems on suburban area: deep drainage. Therefore, it is not enough to make just a concrete strip near the wall.

When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to make a slope from the building or structure to the outside. building codes recommend a slope of 1 to 10% depending on the width. That is, if the width of your blind area is 1000 mm, the height difference relative to the horizontal plane near the wall and on the outer side of the blind area will be from 10 to 100 mm.

If there is no drainage from the blind area, water will flow under it

If the water flowing down the inclined plane of the blind area is not drained by drainage, then the device of this design will not only not improve the situation with wetting and destruction of the foundation, but will probably aggravate it. Flowing water can flow under the blind area slab and seep to the foundation wall.

Of course, its amount will decrease, and the wider the blind area, the less moisture will reach the foundation. But the covering of the blind area will prevent evaporation, and the wet soil will freeze in winter and be able to break the structure.

Installation of drainage trays along the edge of the blind area If the blind area is the last stage of backfilling the foundation sinuses, then water will be absorbed by deep wall drainage. If the blind area is arranged in a dug trench, drainage trays should be installed along the edge. Although it is useful to do this in the case when wall drainage is available.

On the preparatory stage blind area devices should not be forgotten about the water flowing from the drainpipes. If a stormwater device is supposed ( storm sewer), then before starting work on creating a blind area under the gutters, it is necessary to install storm water inlets.

In the next article, we will talk about how to make an underlay and cover for a hard blind area, as well as how to make waterproofing for a soft one.

7dach.ru

A blind area on a slope. A blind area around the house on a plot with a slope.

Any structure will be successfully operated for a long time if it is protected from the harmful effects of natural phenomena. One of the factors that have a destructive effect on the foundation and the entire structure is water. Houses located on the slopes of mountains and uneven areas suffer the most from water. A properly laid blind area will help protect the foundation of the building on an uneven area.

The blind area is the area around the building, covered with a waterproof layer, which has a slope from the basement to drain water that accumulates during precipitation. The blind area around the house on a flat area is poured at the request of the owner. But a building located on a slope or terrain with uneven terrain must necessarily have protection in the form of a blind area.

The purpose of the blind area and its parameters

The blind area on the slope performs several important functions:

• Protection of the foundation and the base under it from the penetration of rain and melt water.
• lead Wastewater around the perimeter of the house and dumping it into the sewer ditch.
• Improvement and decoration of the area around the house.
• Protection of the base of the house from destruction by the roots of trees and shrubs.

Functions of the blind area at home on a slope

To provide reliable protection buildings, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the blind area device on the slope:

• Firstly, if the width of the usual blind area does not exceed 80 cm, then the building on the slope requires protection of at least 100 cm.
• Secondly, the slope from the walls in the direction of the lot is increased to 100.

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Types of blind area

Depending on the coverage, several types of blind areas are distinguished:

Varieties of blind area on the slope

• Concrete blind area - the simplest and most common option. Popularity is due to the low cost of work, durability and high resistance to aggressive natural phenomena.
• The blind area of ​​paving slabs is durable, excellent decorative qualities.
• The blind area made of natural stone is an original and durable option, but it requires a lot of patience for laying on uneven areas.
• Asphalt blind area is decorative, does not require large expenditures. But in hot weather it emits unpleasant odors bitumen.
• A soft blind area is used when water drainage is carefully thought out and well-equipped. This applies not only to the drainage system from the roof, but also to the removal of rain and melt water.

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The blind area on the slope and its features

The construction of the blind area most often begins after the construction of the roof of the house. However, construction on a site with a slope has some features. In particular, by starting a blind area on a slope after the construction of a basement or first floor, it is possible at the initial stage to protect the foundation from water.

The blind area on the site with a slope is equipped in several stages:

1. The marking of the site is carried out in compliance with all parameters. To do this, pegs are hammered around the perimeter of the house and twine is pulled.
2. The vegetation layer and the topsoil are removed until clay or limestone appears. The minimum depth is 45 cm.
3. To increase the protective properties of the blind area on the slope, the prepared base is covered with geotextiles. A layer of crushed granite 5-10 cm thick is laid on top of the geotextile, which is leveled and carefully compacted. For best results, use hand tools or a vibratory rammer plate. Then the second layer of geotextile is laid.
4. On the next step the geofabric is covered with a layer of sand at least 20 cm thick and also compacted manually or using special equipment. The compacted sandy layer is abundantly moistened with water, using an ordinary hose for convenience. Then rammed again. If necessary, the operation can be repeated several times until a smooth sand base is obtained.
5. Further, the blind area around the house on the slope is equipped with a special gutter for water drainage. Such a procedure is distinctive feature blind area constructions on an uneven site. To do this, a groove about 15 cm wide is dug along the entire length of the blind area, into which pre-prepared trays are placed. These elements can be made from any waterproof material. You can make a tray from an asbestos-cement or plastic pipe by cutting it with a grinder into two parts. Laying the gutter tray along the blind area on the problem side must be done with a slope. To fix the trays, ordinary cement mortar is used.
6. The next step is also used mainly when arranging a blind area on a slope. A layer of insulation is laid on top of the compacted sand, using extruded polystyrene foam for this. Carrying out these actions is necessary to protect the blind area and the foundation of the entire erected structure.
7. An important milestone the blind area is considered to be the installation of expansion and expansion joints. The first type does not allow the blind area and the foundation to come into contact, which helps protect the base of the house from destruction when the ground moves. Installation of the expansion joint is carried out using a roofing material laid between the blind area and the foundation in two layers. Expansion joints protect the blind area from destruction during annual soil fluctuations. For their device, simple thin boards are laid on edge, dividing the blind area into separate parts.
8. For a blind area on a slope made of concrete, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement. To do this, a mesh with a cell size of 10 * 10 mm is assembled from the reinforcement. A bunch of rods is carried out using a thin wire or special clamps.
9. The last step blind area on an uneven area is the laying of the coating.

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Blind area for different types of foundation

The construction of houses on the slopes involves the construction different types foundation:

• Shallow strip foundation;
• Column Foundation;
• Pile screw foundation.

For each type of foundation, you need to create protection. Water has a destructive effect on metal, wood products, and cement. It is the blind area that will help protect the strip foundation from destruction by water, prevent the formation of rust on piles and act as an obstacle to the formation of fungus and mold on the columnar base.

Facing the blind area around the house on an uneven area natural stone or other decorative material will be a great addition to the design of the entire building.

The installation of a blind area around a house on a slope is a serious and very responsible process. It requires extensive experience, special knowledge and skills. Therefore, you should carefully consider all the steps, calculate your strengths in order to qualitatively perform the installation of the blind area on an uneven area. In extreme cases, you can always count on the help of specialists.

stroykarecept.ru

How to make a do-it-yourself blind area: a guide for work

The blind area at the foundation is a special structure that protects the foundation from falling under it atmospheric waters and its subsequent destruction. In addition, in some regions of Russia, groundwater can rise so much that it freely penetrates to the foundation, and as a result, the bath in such places is constantly washed away, and unevenly, which is why cracks appear in its foundation. An even more terrible option - they ate the bathhouse was built on restless heaving soil. So, if you want your bath to serve for more than a dozen years, take care of arranging a high-quality blind area around it. And we will tell you how the do-it-yourself blind area turns out to be profitable and it takes a minimum of time!

Why do you need a blind area at all?

The blind area has the following functions:

• Decorative. This is the logical conclusion of the architectural image of the building, and therefore it is customary to make it an integral part of the overall exterior. This moment is especially valuable for modern landscape designers.
• Practical. Often, the blind area still serves as a kind of path, and therefore there are such requirements for it as abrasion resistance and hardness.
• The function of insulation and waterproofing. These are its main functions.

If nothing of the kind was undertaken during the construction of the foundation, then you need to worry about how to make a blind area no later than the end of the lining of the bath basement. Otherwise, the water will erode the adjacent soil and wash away the foundation, cracks will appear in the walls.

First of all, decide what material the blind area will be made of. It can be made from materials such as:

• asphalt;
• cobblestones;
• bricks;
• reinforced concrete slabs;
• concrete;
• tile;
• wood.

Any blind area has two layers: a coating and a special layer under it: sand, carving, clay or small gravel.

A blind area is usually built simultaneously with the foundation. But, if the newly acquired bath did not have it, it will have to be completed. The main rule for creating a blind area: it should be 20-25 cm larger than the overhang of the building eaves. In general, it is somewhere around 80-100 cm, and the wider the blind area, the better it removes water from the house. The standard blind area slope is 3-7˚С. Together with it, an additional storm drain is usually built - a small groove around the perimeter for drainage.

6 standard stages of building a blind area

So, here's how to make a blind area for a bath:

Stage I. We outline the border and prepare the base

It is advisable to first completely destroy the roots of plants under the blind area. This can be done with an ordinary bayonet spatula - we remove the top layer of soil with it, so that later the roots of plants or bushes cannot destroy the blind area. The soil is additionally treated with herbicides.

Now we pour sand into this small ditch, ram it well and fill it with water. Next - rubble or brick fight. And it is desirable to compact all this with a vibroinstallation if possible.

Stage II. Warming and waterproofing

If the bath has a cellar or ground floor, then the blind area must be insulated. As a material, you can take foam glass, foam plastic or expanded polystyrene. It is necessary to insulate the concrete blind area so that under it there is a tangible layer of air - up to 15 cm.

As materials for waterproofing blind areas, PVC film, roofing material and bitumen are more suitable than others, and as a heater it is better to use foam glass, expanded polystyrene and the like.

Stage III. Installation of temperature cuts

Good for this purpose flat slate and rain gutters.

Another important point: at the junction of the blind area with the wall of the house, you need to leave an expansion joint. It can be a special sealant, roofing material or two layers of bitumen - whoever likes it better.

Stage IV. Pouring concrete

The next step is to prepare and pour the concrete solution - gradually, following all the rules. It is better for Mark to take the M-300 - the blind area will turn out to be strong and durable. Concrete for the manufacture of the blind area can be made independently according to this recipe: three parts of sand, one part of cement, four parts of crushed stone and half of water.

Here is how this procedure is done:

1. In a concrete mixer, mix water and cement - until an adhesive mixture is formed.
2. Partially add sand and gravel.
3. Concrete is ready when the mass appears homogeneous.

Stage V. Ironing

15 minutes after the concrete is poured, ironing is carried out - the blind area is sprinkled with a dry cement solution and smoothed with a spatula. Now moisture will not be able to penetrate into the blind area, and it will be smooth and spectacular in appearance. True, if further according to the plan is a tile, then this stage should be skipped.

Stage VI. decoration

And now - the most pleasant part of the work. We decorate with pebbles, plant perennial dwarf bushes around the perimeter, put, if we have planned, tiles.

There is only one important point: if porous materials are used for the blind area, such as artificial stone, for example, they must first be treated with a water-repellent agent.

We select the design of the blind area: 6 best options

Most fast way build a blind area - use ready-made concrete slabs. It is enough to lay them on a specially prepared surface and pour them with liquid bitumen.

The so-called drainage profiled membranes are also becoming popular - they are placed directly on the ground under a layer of crushed stone with sand. Top - any coating. But the most modern ways can even better provide the foundation with water protection:

Concrete pavement - the most popular option

In Russia, a concrete pavement is most often built, which is placed on clay 15 cm thick. If the soil in these places is heaving, another 6-8 cm layer of sand will not interfere.

It is impossible to build a blind area from concrete alone - it will quickly collapse. Here it is important to make the so-called expansion joints - place every 2.5-3 meters wooden slats coated with bitumen. They are placed on edge, concrete is laid between them and its surface is checked against them. Another option to organize such seams is to use reinforcing mesh and lay it in areas of connection with a large overlap.

And so that the surface of such a blind area does not absorb water at all, it is covered several times with cement at the end, and then smoothed over with an iron trowel. Next, cover with a wet cloth and leave it for ten days, not forgetting to periodically pour water.

But, despite its prevalence, the concrete pavement around the bath is far from the most the best option. Because, firstly, it is laborious, and secondly, it is expensive: the concrete goes out of proportion. Its only significant plus is that it will then be possible to walk on it, and that's it.

"Soft blind area" - for heaving soils

Another concrete blind area is only suitable for a non-porous base. For the most restless soils, there is a soft blind area:

• Step 1. We put clay around the foundation at a slight slope from the bath.
• Step 2. On top of it - waterproofing. It can be stekloizol, a film of 250-300 microns or an old banner.
• Step 3. We again sprinkle the waterproofing with clay with a layer of up to 10 cm and fine gravel right along it.

With rubemast - for waterproofing

• Step 1. Along the perimeter of the bath, we install formwork with edged board and put a small layer of sand inside. The trench itself inside must be perfectly horizontal, and the slope is already provided by sand.
• Step 2. We close the sand with rubemast, bending its excess onto the wall.
• Step 3. We fill the resulting trough with PGS - to the level of the formwork.
• Step 4. We lay the paving stones and it will already be possible to walk along such a blind area.

With geotextile - from weeds

And here is how the blind area is made with geotextiles:

• Step 1. We mark the future blind area and dig a trench at the desired slope.
• Step 2. We put geotextile - a rolled material that is used in the construction of roads. Its advantage is that it passes water, but does not allow weeds to grow. Yes, and he has been serving for more than 20 years, which cannot but rejoice. And it is correct to roll geotextiles with a slight overlap on the foundation.
• Step 3. We fall asleep the first layer of rubble - it is better to take the one with a fraction of 10-20. We put it directly on the textile and level it with a rake.
• Step 4. We prepare a border - about 20 cm high. We install it on a sand cushion - and for this we pour more river sand on the edge of the blind area.
• Step 5. Remaining inner part we fill the trenches with gravel, a layer of 10 cm.

Blind area in Finnish - "smartly"

The Finn neighbors make their blind areas very interesting - if I can say that they can generally be compared with the classic ones. So:

• Step 1. Fits around the perimeter of the foundation drain pipe- corrugated, with holes.
• Step 2. All this is covered with gravel, an overlapping foam is placed on top, and covered with soil.
• Step 3. The sloped pipe is connected to the drain wells.
• Step 4. Already at a distance of 40 cm from the foundation, crushed stone is poured, on top of it - beautiful pebbles.

So, the water goes well, the foundation does not freeze through and there are no worries such as cracks in the blind area.

Blind area in Russian - “in a cunning way”

There is also such a wonderful way to completely inexpensively and effectively equip a strong blind area around the bath. So:

• Step 1. We lay a not too thick pillow of sand, on top of it - a thin layer of concrete.
• Step 2. We immerse ordinary glass bottles in all this - just not back to back, and again fill it all with concrete.
• Step 3. Now we reinforce, and cover again with concrete.

What is the plus - no expansion joints need to be made, little concrete is used, and bottles perfectly replace insulation and it will not be difficult for anyone to get them. Very profitable!

But the blind area itself is also a decorative architectural element of the bath, so it’s better to make it a success!

stroy-banya.com

Blind area of ​​a private house | Bath construction

The device of a concrete insulated blind area of ​​a private house

The blind area of ​​a private house in its design can be different, depending on the preferences and capabilities of the owners.

The main options for the design of the blind area:

1. Blind area covered with asphalt concrete. In urban construction, this is the main type of blind area, because asphalt is one of the best waterproofing materials. It is used precisely as a waterproofing layer in the construction of structures. engineering communications in wet soils.
2. A blind area made of monolithic concrete is mainly used in private construction, because it is easier to pour concrete with your own hands than to roll up asphalt.

All other types of blind area structures are variations of the above.

For example: a warm blind area. Its design differs only in the presence of an additional layer: insulation.

Or: a reinforced waterproofing blind area has an additional waterproofing layer made of rolled material.

The final stage in the construction of a concrete blind area is ironing its surface or coating it with some other waterproofing composition: Penetron or liquid rubber.

Or on the concrete pavement, you can lay a more beautiful coating:

• from concrete paving slabs
• natural stone
• from paving stones

blind area design

The main "pie" of the construction of the concrete blind area:

1. Preparation of the base of the soil with a leveling layer of sand 5-10 cm
2. crushed stone layer 15 cm
3. Concrete B15 (M200) 8-10 cm thick with reinforcement

Someone claims that it is enough to reinforce the blind area with masonry mesh. I can't recommend it, because such fittings are not enough. That is why it is called masonry, because it is used only when laying walls made of bricks or blocks.

The masonry grid is made from a wire with a diameter of 2-4 mm. And this is too small for reinforcing a concrete mass with a thickness of 100 mm. If the soils are still “walking” (heaving), then it’s not even funny anymore.

Longitudinal reinforcement in the reinforced concrete structure of buildings, structurally (without calculations), is placed with a diameter of 10 mm or more. Anything less than 10mm is intended for transverse reinforcement, which does not carry any load, but is used to bundle longitudinal reinforcement into meshes or frames.

Therefore, the grid for the blind area must be made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm in increments of 150-200 mm.

If there are no welders for the manufacture of reinforcing mesh, then glass rods can be used: fiberglass reinforcement. They are perfectly cut with a hacksaw, so that a woman can handle such work. And to connect the rods to each other, it is enough to make twists from a knitting wire.

Additional layers of blind area:

• waterproofing. It can be a film, roofing material or a banner.
• thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam 100 mm thick

As already mentioned, the insulation of the blind area is done in order to reduce the forces of frost heaving of the soil:

• the less the soil freezes, the less it will “puff”
• the width of such a frost-free zone should be no closer than 1 m to the foundation. More is better.

If the soils are NOT heaving, then it is much easier to drain water from the foundations: stick a waterproofing material on the wall and put it on the ground with a slope from the wall to a width of 1 m. And that's all! Insulation is not needed.

It is for this type of work that an advertising banner is perfect:

• it can be bought quite cheaply (200 rubles / piece in 2014)
• it has a decent size. Usually 3x6m
• material is very strong, coated
• durable

Pay attention to the fact that banners can also have a different thickness of the base on which the drawing, advertising is applied. A thicker banner is preferred.

Banners have one drawback: they lose their qualities if left for a couple of winters under the snow. As, however, with film and roofing material.

Any existing waterproofing material on the surface will not last long. Therefore, it just needs to be buried to exclude exposure to sunlight.

If in the future the concrete surface of the blind area will not be finished with slabs or paving stones, then the concrete surface must be immediately ironed during its laying in order to give greater strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance.

blind area width

If the blind area is only required to remove precipitation from the walls and foundation and the main task is set: a minimum of work, investments and costs, then the width of the blind area is assumed to be no more than 600 mm.

If increased requirements are imposed on the blind area due to special initial data, such as:

• very heaving soils
• high groundwater level
• basement
• aggressive ground water
• complex and intricate roof structure
• unorganized draining of water from the roof

Then the width of the blind area must be taken at least 1 m, so that heat and waterproofing can be made and it is guaranteed to provide the foundation and walls with protection from all kinds of moisture and frost.

Drainage trays

Device along the blind area of ​​spillway trays with gratings

The design of the blind area of ​​a private house that you have chosen is not only its body with or without hydro-thermal insulation.

The whole design was invented in order to collect and drain water somewhere far away and in one place. And this means that an unorganized spillway from the surface of the blind area to the ground is not a very good and correct solution.

It is necessary to provide for an organized drainage of water from the blind area.

For a small and medium-sized private house, it will be enough to organize an above-ground drainage system. It consists of trays and gratings.

Drainage trays are available for sale:

1. concrete
2. from polymer concrete (high-strength compound with epoxy-based mineral fillers)
3. plastic

You can use any trays. The most important thing is to install them correctly:

• water drains into them from the blind area without obstacles
• water flows through them with a slope (from the top corner of the house to the bottom)
• a system of trays on each side of the house should eventually drain all the water into a drainage well at the lowest point of the site (corner of the house)

Trays can be shallow if there are no sidewalks nearby.

Deep trays with gratings covering them are placed where the pavement adjoins the blind area so that you can safely walk on them and so that dirt and foliage do not get into them.

But, anyway, they will need to be cleaned from time to time by removing the grids, just like trays without grids.

Possibility of more complex design weir from the blind area of ​​a private house: the device of an underground system consisting of pipes and receiving tanks, called drainage.

But, this is a separate topic for discussion.

banjstroi.ru

Do-it-yourself blind area around the house: how to do it, instructions, types

There is one element in the construction of the foundation of the house, which for some time now has been considered mandatory in construction, and even has regulated guidelines for the arrangement. They don’t attach much importance to it, and sometimes they don’t even notice it, but its presence is really important. It will be about the blind area.

Usually, the blind area is perceived as a path adjacent to the building, lined with sidewalk, concrete tiles or simply a path filled with concrete or asphalt. But not everything is as simple as it seems, because its purpose is much more interesting and important than the decorative cladding of the landscape.

Appointment blind area

It is no coincidence that in construction each part of the building has its own purpose and place, which makes this area professional activity a person is quite logical and natural. The same rule applies to blind areas. Equip this element for the following reasons:

• Foundation waterproofing - this area around the house performs drainage functions, removing precipitation from the walls of the house beyond the foundation, thereby preventing it from becoming damp. To increase the density and moisture resistance, special plasticizers are added to the concrete pouring, which allow the original material not to lose strength and absorb moisture for a long time. In this case, asphalt concrete is somewhat more profitable, since one of its main components is directly a waterproofing agent - bituminous resin;
• Protection of the foundation from flooding and subsidence - the blind area, as a protective layer, is designed to protect the foundation from flooding by external waters or precipitation. In water-saturated soils, various processes are possible - rock compaction, soil shifts, heaving, etc. These phenomena are not useful both for the foundation, no matter how strong it may be, and for the walls of the house, and can lead to its destruction;

The saturation of soils with moisture occurs unevenly, because its density can change due to various natural and man-made factors, even on the area occupied by small house. In the case of heaving, this leads to uneven movements of the soil layers, and the same detrimental effect on the foundation.

blind area design

The structure of the blind area is a multilayer cake, consisting of the following layers:

• Compacted soil - the base of the blind area, which is a compacted layer of earthen soil. It is prepared by compacting manually or by vibrators;
• Gravel or sand and gravel pad - a small layer of backfill, also compacted for concrete. The thickness of this layer is about 100mm;
• Compensator - a thin (30-50mm) layer of extruded polystyrene foam, which reduces the pressure of the lower layers of soil on the concrete base of the blind area;
• Concrete base - pouring from a concrete mix, molded to the size and slope of the blind area. In the lower part, to give greater strength to this layer, a metal mesh frame of reinforcement is placed. AT simple version this layer can be finite;
• decorative coating- the most popular material for finishing the blind area is paving slabs. Due to the variety of shapes, sizes and shades of color, it is able to give this element bright and attractive accents.

The blind area is located close to the basement or foundation of the house. The outer part remains free. In the case of concrete pouring, which is formed using formwork, the edging of the blind area is not required. But for paving slabs, curb elements are used, which are installed flush with paving slabs, protecting it from mechanical damage, peeling and giving a complete look to the entire composition of the finish.

Until now, disputes have not subsided over the presence of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, often placed in a layer of blind area before pouring concrete. Supporters of total thermal insulation argue that this reduces heat loss from the outside of the foundation.

In reality, this can do little to improve thermal insulation, since it comes up when it comes to interior spaces. And the reduction of heat loss occurs due to the exclusion of cold bridges, the displacement of the dew point through the insulation of external fences.

The blind area is adjacent to the house, often not even attached to it through anchoring. In this case, a deformation seam is arranged between the house and the blind area. This is done intentionally so that the subsidence of a lighter blind area does not depend on the subsidence of a heavier building.

As for the expanded polystyrene layer, it acts as a pressure compensator, which is created by soils during the processes of heaving and swelling, allowing the blind area to remain intact, without cracks for decades.

Technical conditions and regulations for the arrangement of the blind area

There is no separate engineering documentation for the blind area device. Directions and specifications for these types of work are contained in different documents, the main of which we will consider.

• SNiP 2.02.01 83 - the main document containing instructions for the construction of foundation foundations, calculation for two limit states and loads - short-term and long-term. It also gives the characteristics of soils, their properties and the types of foundations built on them. This documentation will be useful as generalizing knowledge;
• SNiP III-10-75 - contains general information for the improvement of the territories adjacent to the building. According to this document, the blind area should have a slope of 1-10 degrees. Compaction of the soil base is allowed to be done manually until the mobility of the soil mass is excluded. Along the outer edge, the concrete blind area should not have a curvature exceeding 10 mm, cracks and potholes in the concrete. The concrete class is selected according to GOST 9128-97 and GOST 7473-94.

The width of the blind area should exceed the dimensions of the roof overhang by at least 20-30 cm. This is especially true of unorganized drains, where there are no gutters and drainpipes that concentrate precipitation in a given direction. Compliance with this condition will avoid flooding of the soil in the foundation area.

How to equip the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of the house with your own hands

Step by step production blind area for a private house consists of the following works:

If the concrete pouring acts as the finishing outer layer of the blind area, its fresh coating must be ironed with dry cement and rubbed with a wooden polisher. This is done on the second or third day after concreting. Also, the classic care of concrete involves moistening it in warm weather, as well as covering it with plastic wrap. This is done to slow down the hardening of concrete, and to prevent it from cracking when it dries quickly;

The blind area is an integral part modern buildings, protecting the foundation from precipitation and excluding its deformation and destruction. This minor element, often perceived as a normal walkway around the house, is actually very important. Given the simplicity of the technology and the low cost of materials, it is quite possible to make a blind area with your own hands, especially since it will save the foundation of your building for many years.

The video is devoted to the construction of a concrete blind area around the house. The author reveals the entire process of construction work from the preparation of the foundation to the finishing of the blind area, talking in detail about the materials used and their purpose for each layer of the blind area.

The blind area around the house is a wide "tape" with a hard or bulk coating. But this is only the visible part of a rather complex structure. Many perceive the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house as a kind of path along the wall, and although such use may be included in the list of functions, the main purpose of the structure is different.

The blind area around the house from paving slabs Source udachnyi.ru

Why do you need a blind area

Among the regulatory documents, there is no separate standard, SNiP or a set of rules on how to make a blind area around the house correctly. There are several documents that define its purpose, requirements for the width and angle of inclination, interaction with other elements of the removal of atmospheric water from the site on which the building stands.

According to the regulations, there must be a waterproof pavement around the building, which is created as part of the mandatory water protection measures against local soaking of the soil in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of the house.

That is, we are talking about protecting the soil, not the foundation. To protect the materials of the foundation itself, the foundation is waterproofed, because in addition to atmospheric waters, there are also groundwaters that rise high during the rainy season and during snowmelt (the so-called perch).

And the earth must be protected from getting wet, because under the influence of moisture, many types of soils (clay, loam) lose some of their bearing properties and simply cannot withstand the design load from the building. To prevent soil erosion, they arrange a blind area, which, however, also protects the foundation in parallel, removing part of the load from the waterproofing layer, which protects the concrete base of the house from getting wet.

In addition, the blind area around the house is an element of the architectural appearance of the building and part of the landscape of the site. There are quite a few ready design solutions, allowing you to mask the blind area, and when using a hard coating, use it as a track.

Beautiful blind area, turning into a path, as part of landscape design Source stroitambov.ru

blind area requirement

None normative document there are no requirements that would link the dimensions of the blind area with the roof overhang. Moreover, there are no requirements for exceeding the width of the blind area by 20-30 cm in relation to the projection of the removal of the eaves. When building a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands, you do not need to focus on these numbers.

The regulations provide only two minimum widths. And they depend on the soil:

on sandy - from 70 cm;

on clay - from 100 cm.

This is exactly what is stated in the manual on construction control schemes for supervisory services.

With unorganized drainage, the side roof overhangs of houses up to two floors should be less than 60 cm. If the house is on sandy soil, then the difference in the width of the blind area and the size of the roof overhang can be 10 cm, and not contradict the requirements of the regulations.

That is, it turns out that the parameter 20-30 cm is just a statement of the real ratio of two sizes for most cases. But not for everyone.

Video description

Clearly about the requirements for the blind area at home on the video:

If the soils are subsiding, depending on their type, the standards impose other requirements on the width:

I type - more than 1.5 m;

II type - more than 2 m.

And in any case, the blind area should be 40 cm wider than the sinus of the pit.

The slope angle can be in the range of 1-10%, but in the case of subsiding soils, the minimum angle is 3°, which in terms of 5.2%.

The elevation of the outer edge of the blind area above the site should be more than 5 cm.

Types of blind area

Before you properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands or order its construction, you need to decide on the variety. There are three options for the device of the top coating:

Hard cover. Represents a monolithic tape from concrete or asphalt concrete. In the first case, creating a blind area with their own hands, they carry out mandatory reinforcement, in the second it is not required, due to the resistance of asphalt concrete to bending loads.

The arrangement of the base and the filling of the blind area around the house is carried out according to the same technology as for the tracks, but taking into account the obligatory requirement for the slope from the basement.

Protection against water occurs due to the water resistance of both types of concrete. Therefore, it is important that there are no cracks or breaks in the coating on the surface. The second feature is that a gap is needed between the blind area and the base, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the monolithic coating.

Concrete blind area with an expansion gap at the base filled with sealant Source stroyobzor.info

Semi-hard coating. They are made from paving slabs, clinker bricks or paving stones. The device and method of laying is carried out by analogy with sidewalks and platforms made of these materials with the obligatory creation of a waterproofing layer as part of the blind area:

waterproof geomembrane, when laying on a dry sand-cement mixture;

concrete monolithic base.

Semi-rigid clinker brick pavement Source manesu.com

Soft coverage. Classic variant- arrangement of the upper layer from a compacted layer of dense (waterproof) clay. Many people know how to make a blind area of ​​this type: they used to do it around village houses, and even now such a solution is periodically used as an “economy option” around small country houses, but with top layer from decorative (colored) gravel. To improve the waterproofing between clay and gravel, you can lay a waterproof film. You need to understand that the blind area is not just a decor, you should not save much on it.

Crushed stone coating as an economy option Source s-stroit.ru

Now a new type of soft blind area around the house based on a profiled membrane is gaining popularity. The general workflow here is as follows:

The membrane is laid in a trench with a depth of 25-30 cm.

The bottom of the trench is rammed with a slope from the foundation.

On top of the membrane, a layer of filtering geotextile is rolled out to the wall of the base of the house.

Then a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand is poured, and on top of it - fertile soil, which is sown lawn grass or plant ornamental plants.

This blind area is also called hidden. This is a beautiful solution, but with a significant drawback - it is not recommended to walk on a soft surface. However, you can always additionally arrange a path.

Hidden blind area with ornamental plants Source pinterest.com

Common mistakes when creating a blind area

Mistakes can occur at any stage. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly fill the blind area around the house. But even with technology, you need to be careful.

For example, insufficiently compacted backfilling of soil leads to "unplanned" shrinkage and destruction of the integrity of the waterproofing layer or hard surface. The same consequences occur if, due to the negligence of workers, construction debris got into the backfill.

Transverse crack in the blind area, as a result of an error Source stroimdom.com.ua

At the stage of compaction of the bottom of the “trough”, it is necessary to observe the level of the bottom of the pit and its slope. This is one of the important conditions for how to properly make a blind area around the house. Irregularities in the bottom lead to an uneven thickness of the crushed stone layer, a difference in its bearing properties in different areas, which can cause cracks in the concrete. And if the slope of the trench profile is incorrect during the rainy season or snowmelt, the top water will literally drain to the foundation from moisture-saturated soil.

Another mistake is the lack of an expansion joint between concrete blind area and plinth. At high air temperatures, internal stress forces arise in the concrete near the wall, which lead to the appearance of cracks. The same happens if transverse expansion joints are not laid or cut in the reinforced concrete blind area.

When preparing a concrete solution, it is unacceptable to use sand containing clay and dirty water. This will degrade the quality of the concrete, and reduce the life of the blind area.

If a tap for irrigation is provided in the basement of a private house, then a separate gutter must be laid under it. It is needed to drain water outside the blind area in case of leakage stop valves or leaky hose connection.

Video description

Another mistake when installing the blind area on the video:

The maximum slope angle of the blind area is 10%. And with an organized drainage of water from the roof, trays should be laid under downpipes with a slope of more than 15%. This requirement of the regulations is sometimes ignored.

Determining the thickness of the blind area

On the site of a private house, concrete, prefabricated semi-rigid or soft coating is used. The thickness of the semi-rigid coating is set by the material for the blind area around the house: clinker bricks, tiles or paving stones. But the size of the concrete pavement must be calculated. At least in order to calculate the volume of the solution and the depth of the trench for all layers.

Knowing the standard width of the blind area and the minimum level of elevation of the outer edge above the site, it is possible to calculate the only parameter that is not regulated by the standards - the thickness of the hard coating, taking into account its slope.

The minimum thickness of reinforced concrete is about 70 mm - the thickness of two bars with wire binding plus the thickness of the concrete layer on all sides is more than 30 mm.

Video description

What are the features of a hard and thick blind area on the video:

This size must be multiplied by the slope, once again multiplied by the width of the tape, divided by 100. This will be the height difference between the outer edge and the base. And now the height difference must be added to the thickness of the edge to get the thickness at the base.

If the thickness of the edge is 70 mm, the slope is 5%, the width of the blind area is 1000 mm, then the height of the coating at the base is 120 mm.

Technology for the manufacture of concrete pavement

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a blind area around the house look like this:

Preparation of a trench ("trough") under the blind area. The fertile layer is removed over the entire width (from 20 to 30 cm). Compact the bottom of the trench and form a slope. The area near the foundation with backfilling is especially carefully rammed, while adding local soil - the thickness of the compacted layer in this place is at least 15 cm. The depth of the trench should be sufficient for the underground part of the hard coating, the thickness of the pillow (minimum 10 cm, recommended 15 cm) and insulation for the blind area around the house on heaving soils. If the trench after excavation of the fertile soil turned out to be deeper than the calculated one, then the difference is compensated by backfilling with compaction of either local soil or a layer of clay (the second option is preferable).

Trench under the blind area with a slope from the foundation Source stroidom-shop.ru

Pillow. For weak soils, the creation of a crushed stone base is recommended as the bottom layer. First, they fall asleep, level and ram the crushed stone of the middle fraction (40-70 mm). Then - small gravel (5-10 mm) to fill the voids of the previous layer. When crushed stone is compacted, it is watered. Sand is next poured, which is also leveled, watered and rammed. It is the sand according to the standards that serves as the basis for the blind area. The level of crushed stone preparation should have a maximum deviation of 15 mm per 2 m, sand - 10 mm per 3 m.

Waterproofing. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the sand. It does not serve to protect the soil, but protects the concrete from moisture loss during the period of its maturation. In the regulations, this layer is called "separating". For this, a geomembrane or polyethylene film 200 µm thick is used.

Video description

You can also use welded waterproofing - an example in the video:

Warming. When creating a blind area on heaving soils, the structure is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. If two layers are laid, then the seams top sheets shift relative to the bottom seams.

Formwork. It is made from edged board and bar. At the same time, rails for transverse expansion joints are laid. Usually, these rails are mounted at the design level of the blind area with a given slope angle, and concrete is poured along them, like beacons. The width of the rail is 20 mm, the height in section is more than 25% of the thickness of the blind area. The approximate distance between the seams is calculated by multiplying the factor 25 by the thickness of the concrete at the base. Usually, for concrete coatings, expansion joints are combined with technological ones (one portion of pouring between the rails). The expansion joint at the base is formed from folded strips of roofing material with a total thickness of about 5 mm.

Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area around a concrete house Source fondeco.ru

Reinforcement. The easiest way is to lay a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a bar diameter of 4 mm. Neighboring cards (strips) are overlapped by one cell (or more) and tied with wire. The distance from the waterproofing or insulation is at least 30 mm. This size must be maintained in relation to all surfaces - the front, along the ends of the edge and relative to the base.

Concreting. Use concrete M200. After pouring, within four hours, the concrete must be covered. And for 14 days - moisturize.

Protection against destruction. To improve wear resistance and surface strength, ironing is carried out. There are two types: dry - after pouring, wet - simultaneously with filling expansion joints with sealant. After removing the rails (14 days after pouring concrete), the seams are filled with bituminous mastic with the addition of mineral filler.

Note. As a reinforcement of the surface and giving an attractive decorative look, you can use the technology of stamped concrete.

Stamped concrete from the blind area to the walkway Source vest-beton.ru

If the blind area needs repair

If the concrete began to collapse, then, depending on the degree of damage, the recovery technology has the following form:

with a local character (up to 30% of the surface) and narrow cracks - they are poured with cement paste (the proportions of cement and water are 1: 1);

at local repair and wide cracks - they are embroidered, visible reinforcement is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, sealed with a repair polymer mortar;

when crumbling and delamination - weak areas are cleaned and a screed layer is poured around the entire perimeter of the house cement-sand mortar(with preliminary installation of a new curb and installation of a reinforcing frame).

When performing each type of repair, the surface of the blind area must be cleaned of dirt and debris, treated with a deep penetration primer.

As a summary. It is important to remember that the blind area is only part of the water protection measures. The most effective blind area is in conjunction with storm sewers, when water is collected in special receivers and piped away from the foundation.

Storm sewer system Source bloknot-voronezh.ru

As a result, the foundation will receive reliable protection not only from rain or melted snow, but also from groundwater.

And we hope you got answers to your main questions - how to make a blind area around the house and to whom to entrust it.

After winter period when the snow begins to melt, as well as in rainy weather, any a private house needs a storm sewer. Rainfall from the roof usually falls into special storm gutters attached to the roof. Moisture collects there, which then descends into the sewers.

If the house does not have such a unified system for discharging water flows, then soon this will lead to the destruction of the facade of the building, its foundation and plinth, and damage to the thermal insulation. Water will accumulate in the basement and under the foundation, and around the building itself moisture will collect and puddles will stand. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to create a drain, and it will solve all the problems of water drainage.

Types of storm ditches

On the roof of the house there are all the main gutters, pipes and funnels through which water flows from the roof. Storm drains come in three main types.

Now in more detail about each of them separately.

The open system is almost always used in country houses. Storm gutters are usually located slightly below ground level, all water flows flow there and then are diverted to a single place of disposal or treatment. Such a system can be built using different materials.

Natural materials - stones, wood will not entail material costs. The only thing that will have to be spent is time, since it will not be easy to securely fix the walls of such channels.

Special gutters for water drainage will have to be bought, they The cost will depend on the chosen material.. The most inexpensive option is plastic, and the most expensive is metal.

In order for the gutter system to have a more attractive aesthetic appearance, it must be covered with a grate, and gutters will function under it.

Closed-type channels are more often used in urban-type houses. Here the water that collects after the rains flows in closed pipes that are hidden in the ground. Such a device requires large material costs, since in addition to the material it is necessary to have a project according to which water will flow into single system as accurate as possible.

The principle of operation of the stormwater

All the main gutters are located on the roof of the house, where natural rainfall from the roof flows, as well as funnels and pipes, the entire system as a whole is responsible for collecting water on the roof surface. Besides, rain gutters should be installed on the roof and catchment wells, as well as pipes laid in the ground that will carry water to the sewer. Filters, plugs, siphons are also used, they should contribute to better job the entire system as a whole.

The water flowing from the roof enters the gutter, then into the funnels and the drainage pipe system, then the water flow enters the storm water inlet and pipes underground and from there into the collector. The whole system must be done correctly, have the right angle of inclination so that water can easily get to the final catchment point. If the roof is not flat, then this simplifies the system for collecting and discharging water.

It is not easy to make a system on a flat roof, here you need to make a slope in the roof structure so that water can get to the receiving funnels. Downpipes with such roofs are located inside the building at a short distance from its walls. Water enters the outdoor storm sewer system, bypassing the common brownie.

Storm Gutter Materials

The drainage system can be made of several types of materials - PVC, metal, concrete. If you choose gutters made of plastic, they are not as strong as metal, but they are not subject to corrosion. The design as a whole is light and easy to install.. Dirt on plastic gutters does not settle, and this does not prevent the free flow of water. Plastic gutters do not make noise, but are afraid of frost.

Concrete gutters can be called the most reliable and durable, they are not subject to corrosion. It is good to install them for a drain along the perimeter of the blind area of ​​​​the house, they can provide high-quality drainage and keep the foundation of the building intact. Excellent quality characteristics, low prices make concrete drainage gutters very profitable, so they are in great demand.

Metal gutters are made of steel, copper, aluminum, they can also have single-sided or double-sided polymer coating, which will further serve as protection against corrosion. An inexpensive option is galvanized steel, it can be additionally painted.

There are products made of hot galvanized steel, which is coated polymer coated or primer. Due to this, the facade of the house always looks attractive, the coating also helps to extend the life of the gutters.

The price of the elements of the drainage system

A linear drainage system is a system of recessed trays - drainage channels and gutters. The system is connected to a storm drain, which can be made of various materials. The price of the product will depend on the material from which they are made. elements for draining melt and rain water. Below are approximate prices for standard metal products for installing a drainage system.

Conclusion

The storm system, which is properly selected and organized, will help to avoid flooding of low places on the plot, to give the entire territory a more aesthetic appearance. Storm sewers will help preserve the building and prevent it from collapsing.

Erected in accordance with all the rules, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and in compliance with the construction technology, then only soil and ground moisture will pose a danger to its strength and durability. The integrity of the foundation of the house can be broken under the influence of rain and melt water entering the soil and not being able to take care of it in time due to the seasonal rise in the groundwater level, or if they pass close to the surface.

As a result of such waterlogging of the soil near the foundation, the details of its structure become damp, and undesirable processes of corrosion and erosion may well begin in them. In addition, dampness is always a prerequisite for damage to building structures by a fungus or other representatives of harmful microflora. Fungal colonies on the walls of the premises quickly capture the territory, spoiling the finish and negatively affecting the health of the residents of the house.

These problems need to be addressed at the design and construction stage of the building. The main measures are the creation of reliable waterproofing of structural elements and properly organized water drainage from the foundation of the house. About waterproofing - a special conversation, but the water drainage system requires careful calculations, the selection of appropriate materials and components - fortunately, they are now presented in a wide range in specialized stores.

The main ways to drain water from the foundation of a building

To protect the base of the house from atmospheric and ground moisture, various structures are used, which are usually combined into one system. This includes blind areas around the perimeter of the house, storm sewers with a roof drainage system included in it, a complex of rain inlets, horizontal drainage with a set of transport pipes, revision and storage wells and collectors. To understand what these systems are, we can consider them in more detail.

• blind area

The blind areas around the perimeter of the house can be called an indispensable element for draining rain and melt water from the foundation. In combination with a roof gutter system, they are able to effectively protect the foundation of the house even without arranging complex storm sewers, if the amount of seasonal precipitation in the region is not critical, and groundwater flows deep from the surface.

Blinds are made from different materials. As a rule, their placement is planned with a slope at an angle of 10 ÷ 15 degrees from the wall of the house, so that water flows freely into the soil or storm sewer gutters. The blind areas are located around the entire perimeter of the building, while taking into account that they should have a width of 250 ÷ 300 mm more than the protruding cornice or gable roof overhang. In addition to good waterproofing, the blind area is also assigned the function of an external horizontal boundary for the insulation of the foundation.

Construction of blind areas - how to do it right?

If everything is done “by the mind”, then this is very not an easy task. It is necessary to thoroughly understand the design, to know which materials will be optimal for specific construction conditions. With all the necessary details, the process is described in a special publication of our portal.

• Storm sewer with drainage system

A drainage system is required for every building. Its absence or incorrect layout leads to the fact that thawed and rainwater will fall on the walls, penetrate to the base of the house, gradually washing away the foundation.

Water from the drainage system should be diverted as far as possible from the base of the house. For this purpose, a number of devices and elements of storm sewers of one type or another are used - storm water inlets, open gutters or pipes hidden under the earth, sand traps, filters, revision and storage wells, collectors, storage tanks and others.

Roof drainage systems - we mount it ourselves

Without a properly organized collection of water from a considerable area of ​​​​the roof, talking about the effective removal of water from the foundation is simply ridiculous. How to correctly calculate, choose and on the roof - all this is described in a special publication of our portal.

• Drainage wells

Drainage wells as independent, autonomous elements of the water drainage system are usually used in the arrangement of baths or summer kitchens that are not connected to the domestic sewerage system.

To build such a well, you can use a metal or plastic barrel with perforated walls. This container is installed in a pit dug for it, and then filled with rubble or broken stone. The sewage system of the bath is connected to the well with a gutter or pipe, through which water will be drained from the foundation.

This system, obviously, is extremely imperfect, and in no case can it be combined with storm sewers, since with heavy rain a quick overflow with a spill of sewage is not ruled out, which, of course, is not very pleasant. However, under the conditions dacha construction it gets used quite often.

• drainage system

The arrangement of a full-fledged drainage system in conjunction with storm sewers is a very responsible and time-consuming process that requires considerable material investments. However, in many cases it is impossible to do without it.

For this system to work effectively, it is necessary to carry out careful engineering calculations, which are most often trusted by specialists.

Storm sewer prices

storm sewer

Since this is the most complex, but at the same time the most effective option for draining water from the base of the building, and can be done in different ways, it needs to be considered in more detail.

Drainage system around the house

Is a drainage system always necessary?

By by and large, it is highly desirable that drainage be arranged around any building. However, in some cases, a water drainage system is simply vital, since there are a number of objective reasons for this, which include:

• Groundwater is located between the layers of soil close to the surface.
• Very significant amplitudes of seasonal groundwater rises are noted.
• The house is located in close proximity to a natural reservoir.
• The construction site is dominated by clay or loamy soils, wetlands or peat bogs saturated with organic matter.
• The site is located on a hilly area in a lowland, where melt or rainwater can obviously collect.

In some cases, it is possible to abandon the arrangement of the drainage system, bypassing the blind areas and properly organized. So, there is no urgent need for a full-fledged drainage circuit in the following situations:

• The foundation of the building is built on sandy, coarse or rocky soil.
• Ground water passes below the floor level of the basement by at least 500 mm.
• The house is installed on a hill where melt and rain water never collects.
• The house is being built away from water bodies.

This does not mean that such a system is not needed at all in these cases. It's just that its scale and overall performance may be smaller - but this should already be determined on the basis of special engineering calculations.

Varieties of drainage systems

There are several types of drainage systems that are designed to remove moisture of various nature. Therefore, the choice is made on the basis of pre-engineered geological studies, which determine which of the options are most suitable for a particular site.

Drainage can be divided into the following types according to the area of ​​application: internal, external and reservoir. Quite often, all varieties are installed, for example, an internal drainage option is used to drain groundwater from the basement, and an external one for soil water.

• Reservoir drainage is almost always used - it is arranged under the entire structure and is a sand, crushed stone or gravel "cushion" of different thicknesses, mainly 100÷120 mm. The use of such drainage is especially important if groundwater is located high enough to the floor surface of the basement.

• The external drainage system is mounted at a certain depth or placed superficially along the walls of the building and on the territory of the site, and is a set of trenches or perforated pipes that are mounted with a slope towards the catchment tank. Through these channels, water is discharged into a drainage well.
• Internal drainage is a system of perforated pipes that are laid under the floor of the basement of the house, and, if necessary, directly under the foundation of the entire house, and lead to a drainage well.

External drainage system

The external drainage system is divided into open and closed.

The open part, in fact, is a system for collecting storm or melt water from the gutter system of the roof and from concreted, asphalted or paved areas of the territory. The collection system can be linear - with surface extended trays, for example, along the outer line of blind areas or along the edges of paths and platforms, or point - with storm water inlets connected to each other and to wells (collectors) by an underground pipe system.

The closed drainage system includes perforated pipes buried in the ground to a depth determined by the project. Very often, open (stormwater) and closed (underground drainage) systems are combined into one and used in combination. In this case, the drainage contours of the pipes are located below the storm ones - the drainage, as it were, "cleans up" what the "storm drain" could not cope with. And their storage well or collector may well be combined.

Closed drainage system

Starting to talk about installation work ah on the arrangement of the drainage system, first of all, you need to say what materials will be required for this process, so that you can immediately determine the required amount.

So, to install the system closed drainage are used:

• Bulk Construction Materials- sand, crushed stone, coarse gravel or expanded clay.
• Geotextile (dornite).
• Corrugated pvc pipes for installation of collector wells, with a diameter of 315 or 425 mm. Wells are installed at all points of change of direction (at the corners), and on straight sections - with a step of 20÷30 meters. The height of the well will depend on the depth of the drainage pipes.
• Perforated PVC drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, as well as connecting parts to them: tees, corner fittings, couplings, adapters, etc.
• Capacity for arranging a storage well.

The quantity of all necessary elements and materials is calculated in advance according to the draft water drainage system.

In order not to be mistaken in the choice of pipes, it is necessary to say a few words about them.

It is clear that drainage pipes are not used to drain rainwater, since through the holes water will fall under the blind area or to the foundation. Therefore, perforated pipes are installed only in closed drainage systems that drain groundwater from the building.

In addition to PVC pipes, drainage systems are also assembled from ceramic or asbestos concrete pipes, but they do not have factory perforations, therefore, in this case, they are non-functional. The holes in them will have to be drilled on their own, which takes a lot of time and effort.

Corrugated perforated PVC pipes are the best option, as they have a small mass, pronounced flexibility, they are easily assembled into a single system. In addition, the presence of ready-made holes in the walls allows you to optimize the volume of incoming water. In addition to flexible PVC pipes, on sale you can find rigid options that have a smooth inner and corrugated outer surface.

PVC drainage pipes are classified according to their strength level, they are marked with letters SN and digital from 2 to 16. For example, SN2 products are only suitable for contours at a depth not exceeding 2 meters. With a depth of 2 to 3 meters, models marked SN4 will already be required. At a depth of four meters, it is better to place SN6, but SN8, if necessary, can cope with depths up to 10 meters.

Rigid pipes are available in lengths of 6 or 12 meters, depending on the diameter, while flexible pipes are sold in coils up to 50 meters.

A very successful purchase will be pipes on which a filter layer is already provided on top. In this capacity, geotextiles are used (more suitable for sandy soils) or coconut fibers (they show their effectiveness well on clay soil layers). These materials reliably prevent the rapid creation of blockages in the narrow openings of perforated pipes.

The assembly of pipes into a common system does not require any special tools or devices - the sections are joined manually using special couplings or fittings, depending on the model. For tightness of connections in products special rubber sealants are provided.

Before proceeding to the description of installation work, it must be clarified that drainage pipes are always laid below the freezing depth of the soil.

Installation of a closed drainage system

Starting the description of the arrangement of the drainage system, it is necessary to mention and clearly imagine the fact that it can be laid not only around the house, but also throughout the site, if it is very wet and requires constant drying.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextile

Installation work is carried out according to a pre-compiled project, which is developed taking into account all the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the system.

Schematically, the location of the drainage pipe looks like this illustration.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	First of all, according to the dimensions indicated on the project, the marking of the passage of drainage channels is done on the territory of the site. If it is required to divert water only from the foundation of the house, then the drainage pipe is often placed at a distance of about 1000 mm from the blind area. The width of the trench for the drainage channel should be 350÷400 mm.
	The next step, according to the markings, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the whole house. Their depth should also be calculated on the basis of data obtained from soil surveys. Trenches are dug with a slope of 10 mm each running meter length towards the drainage well. In addition, it is good to provide for a small slope of the bottom of the trench from the walls of the foundation. Further, the bottom of the trench must be well tamped, and then a sand cushion 80 ÷ 100 mm thick should be laid on it. The sand is spilled with water and also compacted with a manual rammer, in compliance with the previously formed longitudinal and transverse slopes of the trench bottom.
	In the course of arranging the drainage of the foundation of a built house, obstacles in the form of floor slabs may arise in the path of the trench. It is impossible to leave such areas without a drainage channel, otherwise moisture, having no way out, will accumulate in these areas. Therefore, under the slab, it will be necessary to carefully dig a tunnel so that the pipe is laid continuously along the wall (so that the ring closes).
	In addition to the remote drainage system, in some cases, a wall-mounted version of the channel for water drainage is equipped. It is relevant if the house has a basement or basement floor, under which an internal drainage system was not installed during the construction of the house. The trench is dug deep below the floor of the basement, without a large indent from the foundation wall, which needs to be additionally covered waterproofing material bituminous. The rest of the work is similar to those that will be carried out when laying pipes passing at a meter distance from the wall.
	The next step is to lay the geotextile in the trench. If the trench has a great depth, and the width of the canvas is not enough, then it is cut and laid across the pit. The canvases are stacked on top of each other by 150 mm, and then glued together with waterproof tape. Geotextiles are temporarily fixed along the upper edges of the trench with stones or other weights. When arranging wall drainage, one edge of the canvas is temporarily fixed on the wall surface.
	Further, at the bottom of the trench, on top of the geotextile, a layer of sand is poured, 50 mm thick, and then a layer of crushed stone of an average fraction of 100 mm. The embankment is evenly distributed along the bottom of the trench, while you need to make sure that the slope laid earlier is observed.
	In order to insert a sleeve into the corrugated pipe of a plastic drainage well, a diameter is outlined on it, and then, with a sharp knife, a marked area is cut out. The coupling should stand tightly in the hole and protrude into the well by 120 ÷ 150 mm.
	On top of the embankment made in the trenches, drainage pipes are laid and, according to the project, manholes are installed, to the couplings of which pipes intersecting at a given point are docked.
	After completing the installation of pipes and wells, the design of the drainage circuit should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to fill the top of the drainage pipes and around the wells with coarse gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction. The thickness of the embankment above the top of the pipe should be between 100 mm and 250 mm.
	Further, the edges of the geotextile, fixed on the walls of the trench, are released, and then the entire resulting “ply structure” is closed from above.
	On the rolled geotextile, which completely covered the filter layer of crushed stone or gravel, a sand backfill is made, 150 ÷ ​​200 mm thick, which needs to be slightly compacted. This layer will become an additional protection of the system against subsidence of the soil, which is poured into the trench with the last top layer and also compacted. You can do it differently: before digging the trench, the sod layer is carefully removed from the ground, and after the installation work is completed, the sod returns to its place, and the green lawn is again pleasing to the eye.
	When equipping the drainage system, it must be remembered that all the pipes that make it up must have a slope to the inspection, and then to the storage well or collector, which is installed at a distance from the house. If the drainage option of the water intake is being equipped, then it is completely or its bottom part is covered with coarse gravel, crushed stone or broken stone.
	If you want to completely disguise the covers of inspection, drainage or storage wells, you can use decorative garden elements. They can imitate round logs or a stone boulder that adorns the landscape.

Storm and melt water drainage

Features of storm sewers

An external drainage system is sometimes called an open drainage system, referring to its purpose for draining rainwater from a drain on the roof and from the surface of the site. Probably, it would still be correct to call it a storm sewer. By the way, if it is assembled according to the point principle, then it can also be hidden.

It seems to be easier to install such a water drainage system than in-depth drainage, since less excavation will be required during installation. On the other hand, elements are important external design, which also requires certain costs and extra efforts.

There is another important difference. The drainage system is designed, as a rule, for constant “smooth” operation - if seasonal changes in the saturation of the soil with moisture occur, then they are not so critical. Storm sewerage should be able to very quickly, within literally minutes, divert large volumes of water into collectors and wells. Therefore, increased demands are placed on its performance. And this performance is ensured by properly selected sections of pipes (or gutters - with a linear scheme) and the slope of their installation for the free flow of water.

When designing storm sewers, the territory is usually divided into water collection areas - one or more storm water inlets are responsible for each area. A separate section is always the roof of a house or other buildings. The rest of the fates try to group according to similar external conditions– the outer coating, since each of them has its own specific characteristics of water absorption. So, from the roof you have to collect all 100% of the fallen volume of storm water, and from the territory - depending on the coverage of a particular area.

For each plot, according to its area, the average statistical water collection is calculated by the formulas - it is based on the coefficient q20, which shows the average rainfall intensity for each specific region.

Knowing the required volume of water drainage from a particular area, it is easy to determine the nominal diameter of the pipe and the required slope angle from the table.

Hydraulic section of pipes or trays	DN 110	DN 150	DN 200	Slope (%)
The volume of collected water (Qsb), liters per minute	3.9	12.2	29.8	0.3
-"-	5	15.75	38.5	0,3 - 0,5
-"-	7	22.3	54.5	0,5 - 1,0
-"-	8.7	27.3	66.7	1,0 - 1,5
-"-	10	31.5	77	1,5 - 2,0

In order not to torment the reader with formulas and calculations, we will entrust this matter to a special online calculator. It is necessary to indicate the mentioned coefficient, the area of ​​the site and the nature of its coverage. The result will be obtained in liters per second, liters per minute and in cubic meters in hour.

Everyone understands that the creation of a blind area around the house is an obligatory stage of construction. It is a protective strip of paving slabs, concrete or asphalt, which fits snugly against the building itself under a slight slope. The main purpose of the blind area is to protect the foundation of the house from moisture, precipitation, soil freezing along the perimeter of the building.

The blind area is constantly exposed to the negative effects of melt, ground and rainwater. Over time, she ceases to cope with the task assigned to her, gradually collapsing. To avoid this, the owner must take care of such a moment as arranging drainage around the house, thanks to which the service life of the blind area and, accordingly, the foundation can be significantly extended, preserving the aesthetics of the appearance.

Drainage, made along the perimeter around the house, will perform the function of diverting water from the structure. The drainage system is a simple design; it does not require a lot of materials to install it. If the owner does not have construction skills, but he wants the system to function effectively, then it is recommended to contact specialists who will install the blind area and drainage with the highest quality in a short period of time.

Consider when it is necessary to drain the path around the foundation:

• the site is located in a swampy area;
• groundwater passes too close to the soil surface; in this case, drainage is indispensable;
• house was built on clay area;
• the sole of the foundation is located below the freezing boundary of the soil;
• the blind area is not made of a monolith.

All of the above conditions indicate one thing, competent drainage around the house is required, which will protect the foundation from seasonal flooding, and also prevent the destruction of the blind area.

Features of the organization of drainage around the blind area of ​​​​the house

The device of the blind area and drainage begins after the completion of the construction of the house. Before starting work, you must consider the following:

• foundation features: piles, slabs, etc., as well as its depth and type of processing (waterproofing);
• the composition of the soil, since if it is weak, then the walls of the drainage trenches will have to be strengthened;
• depth of groundwater;
• identify the “weakest” place on the site, where the greatest accumulation of moisture is observed;
• the time of work - only the summer period.

Types of drainage systems

No matter how reliable the house is built, it will not stand for a long time under the negative influence of melt water and frequent precipitation. Annual basement flooding, indoor dampness, soil subsidence - this is not the whole list of what the lack of drainage can lead to. Therefore, each owner, even at the stage of building future housing, needs to think about drainage from the site.

There are several types of drainage, thanks to which water is diverted from the foundation and the site. Professional design and installation will give high efficiency of each of the systems, but the financial and labor costs depend on the complexity of the design.

Drainage around the house can be:

• superficial;
• deep;
• backfilling.

blind area drainage surface type is a ditches of small depth (up to 70 cm), located along the perimeter of the building. For aesthetics, they are covered with decorative grilles. The advantage of such a system can be called prompt installation and a fairly low cost.

The filling drainage of the blind area is almost the same as the previous one, with the only difference being that the ditches are not covered with a grate, but are covered with broken bricks, rubble or gravel. This drainage option has significant drawbacks: it is difficult to clean the system, there is a risk of silting of the ditch, which will lead to a complete replacement of the filler.

The construction of deep drainage will be justified in a situation where there is a close location of groundwater on the site, the soil contains a large number of clay. In addition, closed drainage is mandatory when the house has a basement. The system is carried out according to the traditional scheme: a trench of the required depth is dug, sand and gravel are poured to the bottom, geofabric, pipes are laid. The entire structure is covered with soil.

Surface drainage for the blind area

Most often, in private housing construction, surface drainage is arranged around the house. It can be presented in several varieties, each of which has its own purpose. In some cases, a combination of several types of surface drainage is used to solve the problem in order to provide maximum protection to the foundation.

1. Spot surface drainage of the blind area. It is made exclusively for the removal of rain and melt water. The installation of the system is carried out under the downpipes so that the water from the roof does not fall into the ground, but into the drainage system, thereby saving the building from flooding. Trays are installed from polymer concrete, plastic, concrete, all of them are closed with gratings to protect against blockages.
2. Linear drainage blind area. This system consists of the following elements: sand traps, buried channels with trays or pipes, gratings over trays, exits to sewer pipes.

The arrangement of surface drainage should also be done according to the project, which will take into account such parameters as soil type, type of foundation, placement of utility systems, as well as hydrological data.

The principle of the drainage system around the house

As has been repeatedly mentioned, the arrangement of drainage is of an open or deep type. Consider the principles of the device of each of the systems.

Deep drainage around the blind area is a laborious and time-consuming process, as it involves laying perforated pipes, followed by their instillation. The process consists of the following steps.

Dig trenches with a slope of 2 centimeters towards the receiving well. The bottom is covered with coarse sand and rammed. Further, a gravel cushion is made 10 cm.

• A geotextile is laid in the trench, the edges of which protrude.
• A layer of gravel is poured onto the fabric, which plays the role of protecting pipes from silting.
• Pipes are laid and then interconnected, inspection wells are mounted at the turning points.
• The structure is covered with gravel, a layer of 15 centimeters and covered with geotextiles.
• The trench is covered with soil.

If the site is large, then the collecting pipes must necessarily converge into a main pipe with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, which drains water into a drainage well.

Surface drainage of the blind area is one of the most effective ways to remove precipitation. The system is not difficult to install, it consists of ditches 50 centimeters deep, located along the perimeter of the house, which are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for the water to leave, a 30-degree bevel is made in the drainage ditches towards the main water intake trench. Further, concrete or plastic trays are installed in them, which are decorated with gratings for aesthetics.

When performing drainage of the blind area, it is necessary, in addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site, install a collector tank where all the water will be collected. It is made in the form of a three-dimensional structure of concrete rings, with such a depth that the pipes entering it are located at a sufficient distance from the bottom. This will make it possible to clean the well from deposits from time to time.

By creating a competent drainage system, the owner will get rid of the destructive effects of water on the foundation of the house and thereby extend the life of the building.