Wooden houses / 22.04.2020

Bas-relief on a brick wall. Bas-relief on the wall - the best ideas for design and modern sculpture (115 photos). But the technique of bas-relief compositions is so diverse that it makes it possible to organically fit it into almost any interior and according to

Most owners of apartments and private houses dream of ensuring that their home reflects the individuality of the owner, that it differs in design, is, as they say, “with a twist”. But for this you can simply create a bas-relief on the wall. Such a decision will absolutely transform the room, bring something new into it.

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What can be a bas-relief on the wall?

As they say, tastes don't argue. Depending on the design solution the bas-relief on the wall can be very simple. For example, baguettes of paintings of different sizes look respectable.

Modest luxury emanates from the bas-reliefs, which are located on the panels, launched in the form of a border at the top of the wall.

Some are inclined to decorate the wall with a floral bas-relief.

Such decorations look luxurious in combination with lighting.

The bas-relief on the wall, made with your own hands in the form of a corner of nature, will add originality to the room: a tree trunk, part of a rock, a park, a shore of a reservoir.

The most difficult are plot volumetric paintings.

They usually occupy either the entire wall or a corner in the room.

What if it doesn't work?

Many creative people begin to tingle in their hands when they see a bas-relief on the wall in front of them, captured in the photo. But fear prevents you from starting to realize your desires: what if nothing happens? Get it, definitely get it! And the master class offered here will help in the implementation of the creator's plan. Following step-by-step instructions, applying diligence, even those who do not have skills in sculpting will be able to cope with the goal.

There are options when a bas-relief is immediately executed on the wall. With his own hands, in this case, the master sculpts a sculptural picture from a plaster mixture, comparing his creation with a sketch. However, this method is more suitable for experienced craftsmen. For those taking only the first steps in this field, you should not immediately take on monumental work. Yes, and correcting errors in this case can be quite difficult.

Consider the option when the bas-relief on the wall is first made separately by casting in molds, and then attached in finished form. In this case, you must first prepare a silicone mold for casting parts. And the first step will be just a master class for making molds for casting plaster parts for a bas-relief. With their help, you can create an imitation of ancient stucco, baguettes of paintings, ornaments.

Master class for making molds for casting plaster parts for bas-relief

The best are considered Silicone forms. For their manufacture, you can use several options.

Silicone sealant

In this case, simply cover the multiplying sample with the mass from the tube, having previously lubricated it with soapy water or grease. Sometimes a mold is required for casting not a whole object, but only a part of it. Then the unnecessary part is sunk in clay, plasticine, salt dough - in a material that can then be easily removed without damaging the object.

First, a layer is applied to the sample, carefully working through small details. Then the structures are allowed to dry well and covered with a second even layer. The mold is then carefully removed from the sample.

However, as a result of these manipulations, a very fragile product is obtained. Such forms rarely manage to be used more than 2 times.

Filled silicone

Therefore, experts advise making the so-called dough from one part of starch or talc and the same amount of sealant.

Filler is poured onto the board in a slide. A certain amount of sealant is poured into the middle of it and thoroughly kneaded in the same way as regular dough is made. You can use the container and make mass in it.

To make a mold, the sample is pressed into a piece of silicone mass. Before use, the sample is lubricated with soapy water or grease.

Using such a mixture, it is tightly wrapped around the sample, trying to prevent air bubbles and voids. The structure is dried for about a day.

Silicone compounds

Taking, for example, "Silagerm-7000", the master, according to the instructions attached to it, will easily prepare the material for making the mold.

To do this, a hardener is added to the bulk.

Mix thoroughly.

Then take a box without slots, a container or a bowl. The size and shape of the container depends on the sample part.

Before pouring silicone, the original is pre-lubricated with wax, grease or soapy water so that the finished product can subsequently be easily removed without damage.

At the bottom of the container, the part is laid on which it is planned to create a mold for casting. Carefully pour the resulting composition so that it completely covers the part.

If the form is to be removed not from the whole original, but only from its part, you should first pour the silicone mixture into the container, and then lower the object into it, immersing it as much as the master’s plan requires.

The container is tightly closed. To do this, you can use a piece of glass.

After 15 minutes, you can get the finished form. One has only to check if the silicone composition sticks to the fingers.

If the master wants to create a bas-relief according to his own plan, the master class "How to make a template for a mold with your own hands" will help him in this.

Gypsum bas-relief on the wall using silicone molds

In order to cast a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary:

· pure form;
· gypsum;
· water;
· lubricant.

Grease is applied to the dry area of the mold with a brush. It is prepared from vegetable oil in which the wax was melted in a water bath.

Gypsum (it is better to take GVVS-18, intended for artistic modeling) is bred according to the recipe attached to the package. Water should be used room temperature. Under no circumstances should it be added to the composition of cement or sand, plaster or other material!

So that there are no air bubbles in the cast part, the master first applies with a brush to inner part forms a gypsum composition, and then fills it all.

To prevent the formation of air voids in the product, the form with the contents must be vibrated for some time. You can achieve this effect if you cover the form with corrugated glass and move it over the surface for a couple of minutes.

Usually, the recipe indicates the time required for the product to dry completely. But it is worth noting that in this case it is better to overdo it than to remove the part ahead of time.

After the specified time has elapsed, the master carefully removes the bas-relief detail from the mold.

Attached to the wallusing acrylic plaster, diluted to a thick cream or acrylic glue. You can also glue small parts of the bas-relief using PVA.

It is interesting! Instead of gypsum, you can use papier-mâché mass. Both figurines and bas-relief are obtained no worse than plaster ones.

Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall - video

Using this material, you can make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands. The site also has a master class "How to make a swing with your own hands" with step by step photos and videos.

Do not rush! Make me feel better, drop a few words in the comments!

And on the site there are simply killer materials that are sure to interest people whose hands grow from where they need to.

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Colorful bas-reliefs - voluminous stucco paintings - can rarely be seen on the walls and ceilings of private houses and apartments. Price self made for modeling and painting sculptural panels is too high and the services of masters are not available to everyone. Therefore, an ordinary homeowner who wants to decorate a home in this way has no choice but to make a bas-relief on the wall with his own hands. But since not all people are endowed with artistic abilities, we propose to consider simplified techniques for creating such images.

Casting stucco in molds

To sculpt a bas-relief decoration on the entire wall, shown below in the photo, you need to have drawing skills, since its outline is first applied to the surface. If you are talented in another area, then the solution is simple: make silicone molds, pour plaster decorations into them and stick them on the walls.

Reference. Of course, you can go the simpler way: buy at affordable price decorative molding elements made of modern materials- polyurethane or foam. But it is much more attractive and pleasant to create an individual pattern to your taste, suitable for the design of the room.

Task number one is the manufacture of a three-dimensional prototype - a counter-relief, the basis for a future form. As a rule, the wall details of the landscape are various flowers, grapevine and other elements of nature that look equally good in any room - kitchen, bedroom or living room. The prototype of the pattern you like can be made in the following ways:

sculpt from plasticine or clay;
cut from wood;
transfer the contours of the picture onto paper and give them a relief using gypsum plaster, as shown in the video at the end of the section:
Finally, apply ready-made convex images and figures.

This is what the silicone mold looks like.

Note. You can involve all family members in sculpting a counter-relief, including a child who knows how to handle plasticine well.

Now you need to purchase silicone with a hardening catalyst, whose amount depends on the size of the resulting sculpture, and then proceed according to the following instructions:

Make a bath for pouring, whose sides are 1 cm higher than the prototype. The simplest option- lay the counter-relief on the glass and mold the plasticine sides around.
Mix the silicone with the catalyst in the proportions indicated on the package. To control the quality of mixing, a little food coloring can be added to the solution. Pour it into the tub.
After waiting for solidification, remove the silicone mold and remove the burr around the edges with scissors.
Prepare a solution of gypsum or alabaster (the consistency is like that of liquid sour cream) and fill the recess in the mold, remove the protruding part with a spatula. Allow 10-15 minutes to harden.
Remove the finished bas-relief, process its edges and stick it on the wall, ceiling or home fireplace.

Filling the prototype with silicone mortar

Advice. If your pattern has a thin and elongated shape, then after pouring the plaster, carefully lay 1-2 pieces of steel wire along the entire length for strength.

How a bas-relief is cast from plaster with your own hands is shown in the video:

We apply a relief image - a master class

If you are fine with drawing and have a desire to become a novice sculptor, then it is not necessary to make molds to apply a bas-relief. Create a three-dimensional flower pattern right on the wall using this technology:

Clean and level the wall surface. Treat it with a deep penetration primer and wait 30 minutes for it to dry.
Prepare gypsum plaster and apply it in an even layer 3-4 mm thick. It is not necessary to make the surface smooth.
Taking advantage a simple tool- with a plastic spoon, spatula and trowel, complete the desired pattern. The photo below shows an example - an ornament of blossoming roses.
When the plaster hardens, carefully remove the protruding edges of the resulting petals with a wide spatula. If necessary, refine the drawing with a clerical knife.
Cover the bas-relief with a primer. To avoid gaps, it is recommended to add a little dye to it.

The pattern is formed with a regular spoon

Note. Apply the drawing in full, leaving no empty space. The dimensions of the elements do not play a role and can be different, the main thing is that the whole picture looks good.

At the end, the finished bas-relief remains to be painted with a brush - maklovitsa. The ends of the petals can be tinted with a different color using a wide flat brush, as shown in the video tutorial:

We create a full-fledged bas-relief

This is the most complex technique, which requires not only the ability to draw, but also some skills in applying textured plaster. You need to start work by choosing a pattern and a place on the wall where it will be applied in bulk. The illumination of the site should be correctly assessed, since the bas-relief looks great in the interior due to the play of light and shadow. If it’s not possible to successfully choose a place, then make a picture on any wall, but subsequently install 2-3 lamps above it, as shown in the photo.

Advice. When applying a large relief pattern, the master is close to the surface and cannot see how the whole picture changes in the process of work. Therefore, it is important for a novice sculptor to learn how to evaluate the correctness of actions and often look at the result of their labors from the outside.

To create a bas-relief, use the following technique:

Transfer the contours of the selected pattern to the surface of the wall. There are 2 ways: just draw them with a pencil or copy them onto a transparent film. The latter is applied to the wall, where a thin layer of putty or Marseille wax has already been applied, and the contour is squeezed out along the lines with a slightly pointed object.
Give the drawing volume by applying gypsum plaster to the surface (thick consistency). This must be done in several layers and without haste, forming the outlines of each part with a spatula or other convenient tool.
Since the mortar hardens for a long time (about 3 hours), give clarity to the bas-relief by removing excess plaster with a clerical knife or a narrow spatula. If you removed too much, then correct it with finishing putty.
After the raised image has hardened, remove the remaining sharp edges and smooth out the pattern with sandpaper.

Advice. Do not use solutions of pure gypsum and alabaster for application, they harden too quickly and do not allow you to adjust the details of the picture. Do not forget to prepare the surface of the wall - level and coat with a primer.

When the bas-relief is ready, it can be painted in the desired color (usually white) or painted, creating a real picture. How the wizard does it is shown in the video:

Conclusion

Self-creation of a bas-relief is not an easy task. Stock up on patience and time, and be careful in the process. Without experience, you should not immediately take on a large image, first practice and apply a small 3D drawing on a board or other flat surface. This will allow you to understand the nuances of the formation of small parts and master the technique of working with the solution.

AT modern design there is a very fashionable direction - a bas-relief from decorative plaster. The ancient technique of decorating walls with three-dimensional images was undeservedly forgotten for a long time and was used only to create monumental sculptures and design public places.

The creation of stucco decor in the home and still can afford a few: the artistic level of such work allows the master to evaluate his work quite highly. But the techniques for making a bas-relief are not particularly difficult. The main obstacle in the way of an amateur designer is the conviction that it is very difficult to make a beautiful bas-relief on the wall with your own hands.

There are 2 mounting methods decorative panel on the walls of the premises: buying ready-made slabs with fragments of stucco and creating an image directly on the wall. In the first case, the laying of panel details resembles the performance of facing works with tiles. To fix the elements, liquid nails or tile adhesive are used.

The other way is more difficult, but much more interesting, as it requires the manifestation of creative abilities. To finish, you need to have minimal skills in working with plastic materials (at the level of school modeling lessons), spatial imagination and the ability to draw. If you wish, you can use ready-made drawings or ornaments, transferring them to the wall using a projector or enlarging them by cells.

Creating the relief itself will require patience and accuracy. Great importance has the material used in the work. To obtain good results, it is best to use gypsum-based finishing plasters or decorative mixtures with a very fine filler fraction. They lend themselves well to grinding, are plastic and have a homogeneous structure, which allows even small details to be made.

How to prepare a workplace?

Gypsum mixtures tend to harden within 15-20 minutes. This makes it possible to easily and reliably fix relief details on the wall, to sculpt the necessary fragments directly on the plaster. But this same feature of gypsum can interfere with a novice decorator who has to work very slowly. The only way out of this situation is to a large number of solution for sculpting large parts, when it can be thrown onto the wall as ordinary plaster and knead a little plaster if painstaking work is required to create small details.

In order not to break away in the process of working in search of the right tool, you should prepare everything in advance. For an amateur sculptor you will need:

finishing gypsum mixtures or decorative plaster;
roller;
trowel;
spatulas of different sizes or palette knives;
capacity;
wet rag;
chisels with different stings or a set of cutters for wood or plaster.

For different techniques for making a convex pattern, you may need strips of gauze or rags, dry ears and herbs, or other decor. To create a repeating ornament, you need to prepare stencils in advance. Acrylic paints, a sponge and a dry rag will also come in handy. If you plan to create a relief with details that protrude very far above the level of the wall, you should also stock up on wire.

How to make a bas-relief?

The wall on which the plaster bas-relief will be created must be prepared for finishing: it must be leveled and primed with a deep penetration composition in 2 layers. If a decorative finish with textured plaster is required on the surface, then it should not be coated with wax or varnish. The bas-relief will hold well only on an unfinished wall.

As a background under the panel, your own relief can be applied. You need to make it on a limited section of the wall, where it is planned to perform a volumetric finish. Focusing on the general external contours of the sculptural image, make a mark to which the background texture should extend. This technique allows you to more organically fit the sculptural image into the surface of the wall. The simplest texture can be done using a long pile roller and gypsum putty: apply a thin layer of the mixture on the wall within the outlined boundaries and roll fresh plaster with a roller. After the layer has hardened (24 hours), you can proceed to applying the relief.

Transfer the drawing to the prepared surface, marking the location of its details inside the contour. Where the plaster layer will be especially thick, you can make holes and drive in dowels. On self-tapping screws, the bas-relief on the wall can hold on, as on fittings. Some parts can be sculpted or molded separately and then glued to the wall.

According to the sketch, apply the prepared mortar from water with plaster inside the contour (prepare according to the mixture manufacturer's instructions). There are many options at this stage: you can make a relief immediately if the drawing is simple enough or first lift the outline above the surface to sculpt the details later. Some elements of the pattern can be pressed into the plaster, applied specifically for this purpose in a thick layer. The main rule when forming a composition is that the closest or central fragment should protrude above the wall the most. Secondary and removed parts have a lower height.
Attach the parts molded separately to a layer of raw gypsum and mask the seams by covering them with gypsum. If you need to make a fragment strongly protruding forward (horn, nose, stem or leaf), then you need to use wire as reinforcement, fixing it on the wall in a layer of gypsum and drying the mold for 1-2 hours. Apply plaster on this base, forming the desired part of the picture.
Work out small details using palette knives or cutters, a knife and any tools convenient for this. Details on the set, but still wet plaster can be easily scratched, cut or built up with your own fingers.
Leave the completed bas-relief for several hours before hardening. Sand the surface with an emery cloth, removing excess and eliminating defects. If a part of the drawing does not suit the master, it can be corrected by applying a little mortar and sculpting the missing one.

After drying the finished sculpture for 3-5 days, depending on the thickness of the layer, paint it with colored acrylic paints or perform a volume-shading treatment. To do this, you need to prepare the paint, tinting it in dark shades of beige, gray, sand. Apply acrylic emulsion with a sponge, trying to paint over the depressions of the relief well. Wipe the damp surface with a dry rag, removing excess paint from convex places. Apply fragmentary white paint or gilding, silvering, glitters in the right places.

Only after the complete readiness of the bas-relief, you can proceed to the application of waxes and varnishes on it and the rest of the wall.

Other panel techniques

If the bas-relief on the wall should consist of a certain number of repeating elements, then it is very easy to make them using a stencil. Depending on the desired height of the pattern, a durable moisture-resistant material should be selected. It can be thick plastic, thick cardboard, or a ready-made stencil bought from a store.

The application of a bas-relief in this case begins with the selection of a drawing and transferring it to the prepared material. Then you need to cut through the contours of individual fragments and attach the cardboard to the wall. Spread plaster mortar on the cut parts with a spatula, capturing the areas of the stencil around them. In this case, a pattern with a flat surface is formed, protruding 2-3 mm above the background. After it has hardened a bit, carefully remove the cardboard, add small details if necessary, and move on to the next image, attaching the stencil next to or in any desired place on the wall.

Convex contours of objects, branches, architectural ensembles of any complexity can be made from pieces of bandage or fabric twisted into bundles. Wetting them in gypsum plaster, glue them in the marked place of the drawing, wipe the seam. Contours can also be filled in this way if the bas-relief should contain images with uneven surface textures. By adding hand-sculpted details, you can create very complex compositions.

You can do the same with dried flowers, branches, ears, shells, etc. Carefully covering them with a layer of gypsum in a suitable container, glue the fragments onto wet plaster. Having completed the attachment of the finished panel details, you can supplement them with stucco elements. The final finish can be done by toning, darkening the cavities of the pattern with paint and highlighting the bulges with a light shade.

In the nursery, a painted color panel depicting favorite characters from fairy tales would be appropriate. In the kitchen, you can harmoniously fit a still life or a stucco border with fruits and berries into the interior. Landscape paintings are suitable for living rooms, bedrooms and hallways. They can be distinguished by color or well-chosen lighting of a monochromatic bas-relief.

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

Types of bas-reliefs

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief "Klimt Tree"

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief is a plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making gypsum bas-reliefs

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead of them (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use them to clean off old paint from the palette, and sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, and create a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

Next essential tool- a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest ones, made of ox-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool sours, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off from it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, shaping and toning is not required;
In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the plastering process

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

Stucco ceiling under the chandelier

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. To plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salt dough is glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wood, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is to coat with 9 thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this already turns out to be a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After the set time of cement-sand mortar 3/4 strength (7-20 days, depending on external conditions) the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield with the help of a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered with a film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Gypsum Mini Reverse Casting

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

Low plaster molding

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Branches on plaster bas-reliefs

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy discipline is not medical, but art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For figurines smaller frame make it simplified (pos. 2), but observing the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of the limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (toning can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: we prick with a nail with a slight slope along the still plastic GKL coating even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other. The slope of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its point relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample into direct sunlight and, turning this way and that, and somehow, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how it would be necessary to prick the holes in order to get a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will find the ability to this rare, but extraordinarily spectacular art - shadow bas-relief.

Bas-reliefs have been used for decoration since ancient times. different kind products and structures. Today, such decorative elements have found application in a wide variety of fields.

Bas-relief in the interior

The use of bas-reliefs gives a fairly wide scope for interior design. For example, you can create a separate panel in the form of a picture to decorate an empty wall.