Carpenter's workbench with their own hands. Workbench: design rules, manufacturing for various kinds of carpentry and locksmith work Do-it-yourself workbench for carpentry

It is customary to call a carpentry workbench a table of a special design with a solid and durable surface allowing mounting on it of various devices and mechanisms. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted for rigid fastening of an additional stationary equipment(a circular saw, for example, or a small router) used for cutting common materials such as wood or metal.

Before you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as with some of the most popular options.

Design requirements

The working characteristics of the table-workbench are:

• Its height, adapted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, while maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
• The dimensions of the tabletop, selected for reasons of the possibility of placing everything on it necessary tool, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the processed workpieces.
• A set of fixtures mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
• Adaptability "under the arm" of its owner, who may turn out to be left-handed.

The most suitable for self-manufacturing is the option of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a table top installed on it. The length of such a design usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary fixture, or whether it should be folding (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for the construction of a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which the supporting base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, a standard planed beam with a section of 100 × 70 mm is best suited. As auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base, the same bar can be used, but with a slightly smaller section (100 × 50 mm, for example).

The tabletop of the workbench can be assembled from well-cut and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a finished solid canvas (old solid door, for example) or a workpiece cut to the size of the table from laminated chipboard with a reliable and durable coating.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hardwoods, such as, for example, beech, oak or maple.

Construction assembly

The manufacture of a workbench begins with the assembly of a frame base, on which a table top of your choice is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed in this case is as follows:

1. First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, equipped in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a section of 100 × 70 mm.
2. Then these frames are connected in the upper part by two longitudinal bars, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Note that for reliable fastening of individual elements to each other in the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic “thorn-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the docking areas).
3. The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of timber 100 × 50 mm, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (For their fastening, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the bar).
4. In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and spikes are first prepared in blanks, after which the entire structure is assembled in one go (after applying glue to the joints).

During assembly Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the next working moment, which determines the quality of the entire subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the dimensions of individual elements with the design data, as well as control the horizontalness of their installation using the building level.

In the case of the manufacture of countertops from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no gaps in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (by 1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with screws to the transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves for these bars should be prepared. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully polished, and then treated with a protective solution (lining oil is usually used for these purposes). To fix it on the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.

Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vices, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:

1. It is most convenient to place a working vice on the end of the countertop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. On the reverse side of the table in the fastening area, it is necessary to provide a plywood gasket that protects the surface from damage.
2. In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop, fixing the workpiece in working area and making it easier to work with. On a wooden tabletop, it is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
3. Sometimes stops are made by simply building up the table top using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and closed on the back side with a limiting bar.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench consisting of a tabletop that leans against the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support legs of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the table top (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

You also need to take care that the top crossbar on the supports is located below the board with the fastening of the hinge of the reclining tabletop. The material for the manufacture of a folding workbench table can be any monolithic chipboard blank.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of bars 100 × 40 mm, the articulation of which is carried out using pre-prepared metal plates, fixed on the racks and lintels with the help of bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:

A photo

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of the common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's workbench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How is a carpentry workbench traditional type, shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood only needed on the shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure) so that as much as possible most of dynamic loads during metal processing fell vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or others. light wooden the structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Most of the home craftsmen, who are the bulk of the subscribers and visitors to our site, have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace to one degree or another by setting up comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home needlework, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which becomes a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of homemade and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently do the arrangement of a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.

Workshop Workbench Types

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing work. different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. According to the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:

• carpentry;
• plumbing;
• combined.

Based design features, the following types are added to them:

• universal;
• folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you experience home master If you convert it into banknotes outside your apartment or the courtyard of your house, you can either pick up a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable, and here three options are possible:

• carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of locksmith operations;
• locksmith workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
• combined workbench.

We immediately note that the latter option is not best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and metalwork types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple DIY garage workbench

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.

Well, if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform metal or woodwork, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we will take wooden bars 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top rail of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm on the bottom and 1600 mm on the top. And behind we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making spiked joints, use it, as we did.

If not, then make them manually or you can join the parts end-to-end using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side racks as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can begin to assemble the entire bed.

The central jumper inside the frame, made of the same bar 40x80, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, acts as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from old desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.

For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated surface made of fiberboard. We screwed a board on metal plates to the leading edge, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for fastening a small metalwork vice with a clamp.

We fixed the working surface to the frame on metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Making a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a carpentry workbench and do some design modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes up to the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spiked joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often type-setting) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fixing workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m, and the width must be at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he lacked 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you, and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different material for countertops, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and various vise mechanisms. Now in order:

1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then the connection of its elements can be done by any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made glued wooden shields, sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats oak, beech or ash.

3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the table top of the workbench is built up with bars of the appropriate sizes. The most popular clamps are:

- carpenter's lead screw with two Czech-made guides Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of approx. 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish carpenter's vice Piher, 150 mm, approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own by using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transmit such efforts as a vise, but it will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its cheapness;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same studs, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.

4. Make holes for the stop pegs in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fastening of overall products.

5. Fasten the workbench tabletop to the base on powerful metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to fasten it to the floor.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench option described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.

1. The simplest of these is to make an overlay of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a steel angle frame, kept separate from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered to the table top if necessary.
2. The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a bench vise. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require passing through the workbench top.

Of course, you can fit the holes for the stops under the fasteners of the vice, but with a thick overlay, you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vise directly to the tabletop of a carpentry workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be done on the entire area of ​​​​the workbench. There are many options, the choice is yours.

Refinement of a locksmith's workbench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways we will tell you about its adaptation for carpentry, especially since it is not at all difficult. To fully use your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vise and make some simple fixtures.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first figure below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the pins (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate fixed with recessed clamps, with all the set of workpiece fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by a ladder at the workbench of the appropriate height.

There is nothing to say about the back stop, it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overlay planer board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the processed bar) and screwing the beam on the underside to stop on the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns the locksmith workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for fixing the workpiece also allows us to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is also to screw with right side choose an emphasis and thickness of at least 50-70 mm for a more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The way to install the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

The workbench is an indispensable attribute of any carpentry workshop. It is a desktop used for tooling workpieces, storing tools, materials, drawings and accessories.

In this article, we will look at the design and dimensions of workbenches, offer an overview of the most popular factory models and present step by step instructions, following which you can make a homemade carpentry workbench.

1 Arrangement and design of carpentry workbenches

As for a blacksmith, the main working tool is the anvil, so in the carpentry workshop, the main working element is the workbench. Such a desktop is universal, it simultaneously acts as a place for cutting, processing and assembling wood parts, storing working tools and fixtures.

The basic part of the design of any workbench, no matter how many operations will be performed on it, is a regular hardwood countertop (beech and oak are best). The thickness of the tabletop should be 60-70 mm, while a longitudinal groove is cut in the back along its entire length for storing small tools. Large fixtures are stored in the workbench - a shelf under the table top.

On the carpentry workbench, there must be a vice that is used to fix the workpieces being processed. The functionality of the table is greatly expanded by the holes for installing clamps, which are drilled along the edge of the inner contour of the tabletop.

The total height of the structure must be selected based on the height of the master, usually it varies between 70-80 cm. The width and length of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workshop or garage, for a single desktop, the optimal length is 2 meters, the width is around 90 cm.

A stationary table can weigh up to 100 kilograms. If you plan to make a folding workbench, then you will need to take care of facilitating it by using less thick wood. The folding design implies the possibility of unscrewing the tabletop from the legs, while the legs themselves can be collapsible or telescopic.

In the workshop, it is best to place the workbench near the window, which will give the workplace natural light during the daytime. Availability artificial lighting is mandatory, also near the countertop you need to place several sockets for connecting power tools.

1.1 Material selection and assembly

For the manufacture of the frame and legs, a planed beam 100 * 70 mm in size is well suited, for a countertop it is best to take planed oak or beech boards 4-5 cm thick. More cheap option- table top chipboard sheet, however, it will last less. Remember that the thicker the boards are used, the heavier and more stable the carpentry workbench will be, which will positively affect the convenience of work.

Fasteners are selected based on whether the table is stationary (nails and screws are used) or prefabricated (bolts and nuts). From a power tool for installation work you will need a drill, a grinder and a screwdriver, it will also not be superfluous Sander, however, you can get by with an ordinary planer.

A do-it-yourself carpentry workbench is done in two stages - assembling the frame and mounting the tabletop. When assembling the base, you need to try to get the most rigid frame possible, this can be achieved by placing horizontal jumpers between the legs (at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor), which will later serve as a supporting element for mounting shelves.

You can connect the frame bars to each other by gluing into the “thorn-groove” system, but it is most convenient to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. You can increase the reliability of the structure by rigidly screwing one of the horizontal jumpers to the wall, however, this solution is applicable only in the manufacture of a stationary workbench.

Having finished with the base, you can proceed to the assembly of the second part - the countertops. If the work surface consists of several boards, they should be joined together as carefully as possible so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the cracks. The boards are connected on 3 bars (side and central) located under the table top. The dimensions of the countertop should be such that its contours extend beyond the base by 5-10 cm. Upon completion of the assembly, the countertop is polished and covered with drying oil, it is easiest to fix it on the base with steel corners.

You need to fix the vise on the workbench using M12 bolts and nuts, while it is first necessary to cut holes for the bolt heads into the tabletops. You can place the vise in any place convenient for you, but not in the corner, as it can break off under heavy load.

The device of the carpentry workbench also implies the presence of stops, which can be purchased ready-made and fastened with bolts, or you can do it yourself. Holes are cut out under the stops in the front of the tabletop, in which wooden blocks, machined to size, are placed. For a more secure fixation, they can be made in the form of pegs expanding towards the top.

1.2 Homemade workbench (video)

2 Choosing a factory-made workbench

If there is no opportunity to make a homemade desktop workbench, it makes sense to pay attention to factory-made products. In the budget price category the best choice there will be a Unipro 16900u desktop, which can be bought for less than 3 thousand rubles.

Unipro 16900u is an excellent metal workbench that is well suited for home amateur use. The working table has dimensions of 520 * 300 mm, which allows processing workpieces up to 265 mm wide. On the surface of the table top there is a protractor, an inch and a metric scale, and sliding holders for workpieces are also provided.

The Unipro 16900u model is designed for a total load of up to 100 kg, while the weight of the structure itself is 8 kg. With its compactness, the table is quite stable, its only drawback is the complete bolts, which are made of soft metal. Owner reviews indicate that it is very easy to break the bolt cap with a bat, so immediately after purchase it makes sense to replace the bolts with better ones.

If you need a professional workbench, we recommend that you pay attention to the Master Cut series from Wolfcraft (Germany). The line includes metal tables, for which the manufacturer gives a guarantee for a period of 10 years, which indicates their highest quality.

Wolfcraft offers the following models of carpentry workbenches:

• Wolfcraft Master Cut 1500 - working area 78 * 50 cm, height 86 cm, can withstand a load of 200 kg. The price is 24 thousand rubles.
• Wolfcraft Master 700 - differs in height adjustable within 78-95 cm and a smaller table (68 * 39 cm). Designed for a load of up to 150 kg, the cost is 17 thousand.
• Wolfcraft Master Cut 200 is the most affordable model in the line of professional equipment (price is 7 thousand). The tabletop for the workbench has dimensions of 30 * 44 cm, height - 80 cm. This is an excellent student table, which can be considered as a universal workbench for household use.

Also in the assortment of the German company are carpentry workbenches with tool storage boxes - Wolfcraft Workshop. Their working surface is made of solid beech 30 mm thick and covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. characteristic feature of the Workshop series is modularity - the client gets the opportunity to independently choose the configuration of the storage compartment by combining the shelves and drawers of different sizes offered in the catalog at his discretion.

The total load that the Workshop system can withstand is 600 kg, while the maximum weight per box should not exceed 600 kg. The cost of such equipment directly depends on its configuration, prices start at 40 thousand rubles.

Each master for working with wood or for finishing manipulations needs a comfortable workplace. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.

The device and purpose of the carpentry workbench

A workbench is a stable, massive desktop designed for processing various products using manual or mechanized tools. The larger the dimensions of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.

Typical workbench layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, you need to study everything possible designs tables, their drawings, and only then make a choice.

Simple stationary workbench it is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It will be possible to use it for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight is about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for work with medium-sized products and for minor repairs.

Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.

We draw up a workbench project

Worker carpenter's table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.

Height the table directly depends on the growth of the owner, who should be comfortable while standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, a workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.

Length and width workbench depends on the area of ​​​​the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.

Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.

Set workbench best by the window, but additional lighting is still needed. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.

design collapsible table can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or an unscrewing tabletop.

Workbench with your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction

A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of your own house or cottage.

Base making

First of all, you should make a frame of their bars with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.

Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the whole structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of the carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between the top of the frame and the legs and are made of the same material as the table base.

We make a countertop with various fixtures

Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.

1. Boards with the help of metal corners are attached to three bars, which are located on the back of the tabletop. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
2. Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and covered with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.

At the end of the tabletop, a recess is made under vise. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed on the bottom of the workbench.

The vise is applied to their location, and the place for the holes is marked. A vise is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are flush with the surface of the table top.

Also, on a carpentry workbench, it is necessary to build stops that can be purchased or made by hand. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not fix parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.

Easy enough to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix parts of any size. Such stops are made of solid wood. You can make them just rectangular, expand upwards or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring”.

Under the pegs in the countertop, you can make holes or build it up with bars of the desired thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. In order to fix any part, the nests should be located at a distance of half from the vice stroke from each other.

The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space for the installation of the desktop, then a collapsible carpentry workbench can be made.

Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement

The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that to connect the parts it is required use of bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it is easy to replace any parts. So, for example, every table loosens over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.

Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task at all. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, for which work will bring joy.