Drainage from improvised materials - cheap and cheerful. How to make drainage of the site with your own hands from improvised materials Drainage system from branches

If you want to equip a site where groundwater is too close, as a result of which the soil is excessively moist, you need to lay a drainage system. Then the plants will bear fruit and please the eye, and the buildings will not collapse.

In essence, the drainage system consists of specially equipped channels. Their task is to collect moisture and bring it outside the site. There are several types of drainage systems that differ in the way they are arranged: closed, backfill and open. Tubular drainage is found in the last two varieties. It can be made by hand.

Tubular drainage is made of perforated or slotted pipes.

In order for the drainage system to serve for a long time, and to solve the problem effectively, it is necessary to find out what kind of soil prevails on the site: sandy, clay, crushed stone, loamy (mixed). Having decided on the soil, you can choose pipes.

For sandy soil, drainage should be done with pipes equipped with a non-woven fabric filter. For crushed stone, a filter is not needed. If the soil is clayey, you can do without a filter, but you need to sprinkle crushed stone around the pipe. Pipes equipped with geotextile filters are suitable for loam.

When laying drainage, structures made of various materials. These are plastic, asbestos cement, ceramics and pottery counterparts. But now preference is given to plastic counterparts from a variety of derivatives:

• polyethylene low pressure(PND);
• polypropylene (PP);
• polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
• high density polyethylene (HDPE).

When choosing, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the drainage system of the site. A two-layer pipe with perforation and a geotextile filter will withstand an eight-meter layer. HDPE pipes can be lowered to a depth of 3 meters.

Depending on quantity ground water determine the pipe diameter.

Advantages of plastic pipes

Laying tubular drainage is based on three pillars: the strength of the material from which the pipes are made; laying depth and interaction with the aggressive environment of groundwater. Plastic perforated pipes will cope with these tasks perfectly. Their advantages are that they:

• are highly durable;
• not subject to corrosion;
• sediment does not linger on smooth inner walls;
• the presence of filters prevents their clogging from the outside;
• light weight facilitates installation, you can do it yourself;
• prolonged period of use;
• low price with good quality.

How to lay drainage with your own hands

Laying tubular drainage with your own hands is easy. You just need to follow a clear plan. First you need to make a drainage scheme for the site. To do this, you can follow how water flows down the ground during rain. Ditches should be dug in these directions. And it is better to use a level or a laser rangefinder. These devices will more accurately show the relief of the area.

With the scheme in hand, we alternately perform the following work:

• we dig trenches for drainage with our own hands. Better to do it in the rain. So you can immediately check the correctness of the laid route. If the water in the trench does not accumulate in puddles, you can proceed to the next step;
• if the pipes are without filters, and the soil is problematic, then we lay a geotextile fabric in the trench:
• lay pipes at an angle;
• we direct the lower end into a well to collect water;
• we fall asleep crushed stone (not lime) in the trench;
• we wrap everything with geotextiles;
• we fall asleep crushed stone and a layer of sand;
• we close the structure with turf.

Minimum trench depth for plastic pipes- 80 cm. The slope of the pipes is at least 3 °.

The shape of the trench for drainage of the site can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. If included drainage pipes connecting fittings are not included, you can use those intended for sewer pipes. The width of the trench should be equal to the outer diameter of the drainage pipe plus 40 cm.

What else can tubular drainage be assembled from

If pipes remain after laying the sewer, they can be safely used to build a drainage system with your own hands. With the help of a drill, holes are made in them. Next, you should proceed as when laying the drainage of the site with plastic pipes.

You can also make drainage with your own hands from another improvised material - asbestos cement. These pipes also need to be perforated. Holes are made at a distance of 10-20 cm, the width of the cut is 3-7 mm. Arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. The laying mechanism is the same as with plastic pipes.

Asbestos cement pipes are connected with cylindrical pipes of the same material. The ends of the pipes are cut exactly, strictly perpendicular longitudinal axis pipes. The coupling must be 6-8 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.

At the corners of the tubular drainage structure and on large flat sections, manholes are installed. They are needed to control the operation of the system.

Cheap waste drainage

With your own hands, the drainage of the site can be made from other improvised things:

• construction garbage;
• plastic bottles;
• branches of trees or shrubs
• car wheels;
• Styrofoam;
• twisted branches connected in bundles (fascines).

Plastic bottles are widely used in Everyday life, they are also suitable for arranging the site with a drainage system. This material is chosen for its long service life and high quality of the source material - polyethylene. A drainage system made from bottles will last at least 50 years. It will not lose its shape and will not undergo decomposition processes like branches or textile materials. The only negative: if the system is not insulated, it will freeze in winter and will not be suitable for operation in the future.

How to lay drainage from plastic bottles

It is easy to assemble such a drain with your own hands. There are two ways: grid, natural outlet. The first method is suitable for small areas with low humidity. Installation is done like this: cut off the bottom of the bottle, tightly insert the neck of the next one into it. You can assemble the mechanism directly in the trench, which greatly simplifies the work. Be sure to carefully fill the bottles with sand, and then cover with a layer of earth and turf so that the drainage does not freeze.

With the second method, there is no need to cut the bottles. They are tightly closed with lids and stacked sequentially. Then everything is repeated, as in the first method.

Plastic bottles must not be left open. Under the influence of direct sunlight, polyethylene releases toxic substances.

foam drainage

For a small area, a construction from another improvised material is suitable - polystyrene foam. The installation method is simple. Styrofoam is pre-crushed into crumbs. A layer of sand is poured into the trench, then a layer of rubble. A piece of foam is placed on this pillow. Everything is covered with a layer of soil. Such drainage is not afraid of rotting, aphids will not start in it. If desired, geotextiles can be laid in the ditch.

The simplest drainage on the site

With your own hands, you can equip surface drainage. Making it simple:

• we dig a trench 50 cm wide, 60 - 70 cm deep;
• we make the walls of the structure at an angle;
• we line them up according to the pattern of rainwater runoff;
• water from the trench is collected in a special sump or in an artificial reservoir.

The disadvantages of this design are its fragility and bulkiness. Trenches "eat up" the area of ​​​​the site. To make the system last longer, you can use ready-made concrete or plastic trays.

Trenches can be ennobled by laying them out with beautiful pebbles. The number of ditches is calculated as follows: 1 m of drain per 10-20 m2 of allotment area. The order of the drains is as follows: first, the main one is laid, then the secondary ones are brought to it at an angle. The distance between the secondary ones is determined, depending on the quality of the soil. For clay and loamy - 4-12 m; for sandy - 20-30 m.

If the site requires the arrangement of a drainage system, but there is no money to purchase materials, you can try Alternative option- equip the drainage of the site with improvised means.

The problem of flooding the territory during the period of snowmelt or heavy precipitation is familiar to many. If it is not resolved in a timely manner, there is a risk of facing very unpleasant consequences. The fact is that moisture undermines the foundation of the house and outbuildings, adversely affects the root systems of plants and urban crops.

Polyethylene film drainage

If you are wondering what material can be used for drainage, the answer is unambiguous - one that allows the passage of water. Most often, the following available materials are used to create a drainage system:

• plastic bottles;
• Styrofoam;
• branches;
• fascines;
• car wheel;
• construction garbage;
• stones;
• old things.

Note! Before choosing improvised materials for installing a drainage system on your site, you should make sure that during operation they will not rot, decompose, creating an unpleasant odor problem.

Plastic bottles for drainage

You have accumulated a lot plastic bottles and you don't know what to do with them? Do not rush to throw it away, as they can be useful for arranging the drainage system on the site. For the manufacture of bottles, high-quality, environmentally friendly polyethylene is used, which has a long service life.

Drainage from plastic bottles

The main advantages of using bottles for arranging drainage on the territory:

• Long period of operation. The container is able to lie in the ground for more than 50 years without decomposing or deforming.
• Availability. Sometimes owners simply do not throw away used bottles, but collect them somewhere in the basement or in the attic. Alternatively, you can buy a container on the market at a very reasonable price.
• Environmental Safety. In ditches where plastic bottles are laid, there will be no bad smell, since there are no conditions for the development and reproduction of microorganisms (unlike drainage from wood, textiles).
• Ease of installation. The main complex of works consists of land works. Then the entire installation can be done independently in a few hours.

Important! Drainage using plastic bottles should only be closed. When heated, polyethylene is able to release harmful substances, which can affect the health of the inhabitants of the house, therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the material is not exposed to direct sunlight and that the heating elements are not exposed.

There are two options for arranging a drainage system using plastic bottles: mesh, "natural" drainage. In the first case, the bottom of the bottle is cut off, the neck of the next one is inserted into it. After land work is completed, such a plastic mesh is simply laid in trenches and sprinkled with a sand cushion, then with soil. Use this way It is possible only in areas where there is a small area and a small amount of precipitation.

"Natural" tapping is used much more often, it is considered more effective and convenient. Bottles do not need to be pre-prepared. Before laying in ditches, they are simply tightly covered with crusts.

Equipping the drainage of the site from improvised materials, in particular from plastic bottles, you should take care of high-quality insulation. If the system freezes during the cold season, it will not be able to perform its functions during the snowmelt in the spring, so all work can then be considered in vain.

foam drainage

If you plan to equip drainage from improvised materials, use foam. It can be collected, or you can buy it at a hardware store at an affordable price. The material has long been known for its versatility. It is used to protect equipment from damage, to perform a drainage layer indoor plants. Sometimes foam is used to equip drainage systems in small areas.

foam drainage

Work should begin with the implementation of land work. Trenches are dug under a slope towards the location of a prefabricated well, collector or artificial reservoir. A pillow of sand and gravel is laid in the dug trenches, then a layer of pre-shredded foam. The last step is laying the ground. To increase the efficiency of the drainage system, geotextiles can be laid in the ditches.

If the site is flooded abundantly, groundwater is high, which from time to time accumulates in the basement, it is rather difficult to solve the problem using improvised materials. In small areas with a slightly high level of humidity, improvised materials cope with their functions efficiently.

Not all owners of suburban allotments are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. Often, only in the process of cultivating the land or building, they realize that underground waters lie high, that puddles stand for a long time during the flood period. Don't worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, it is much easier to build it than to look for a perfect site.

The drainage system will relieve excess moisture from the soil-vegetative layer, which will ensure the normal growth of cultivated green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of contact, protect the basement and viewing hole garage from flooding.

Those who want to arrange drainage garden plot with our own hands or the efforts of a team of landscape workers, we will find detailed answers to all kinds of questions. Our material describes in detail the options for groundwater drainage systems and methods for their construction.

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

1. The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
2. Groundwater is marked at a level close to the earth's surface.
3. The site is located in a lowland, river valley or in a swampy drained area.
4. The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
5. The cottage is built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with clay soils underlying the soil: sandy loam, loam. During the period of heavy rainfall, snowmelt, this type of rock passes water through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Water stagnation at the level of soil development is associated with its waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections, pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases vegetable crops, rotting roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

Due to stagnant water, waterlogging of the soil-vegetative layer occurs, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment, deterioration appearance site. The drainage system allows you to remove moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground

If you do not solve the problem with waterlogging of the soil, then over time, erosion of the earth may occur. In frosty times, the soil layers containing water will swell, which may damage the foundation, paved paths and other site improvement facilities.

To check if drainage is necessary, you need to know the throughput soil layers Location on. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the limit.

If the water is absorbed in a day, then the soil underlying the soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not leave, it means that clayey rocks lie under the soil-vegetative layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures can crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence.

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Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope face the problem when water stagnates at the lowest point, when the receiving water can be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well, into which it is necessary to introduce a drainage pump. With its help, water is pumped up and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

If it is planned to build an absorption well on the site for the disposal of the collected water, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:

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Poor growth of garden crops and trees, constant dirt on garden paths and seasonal flooding of cellars and cellars indicate a high level of groundwater in suburban area. You should not put up with these inconveniences, otherwise high humidity can turn into more significant problems - swelling of blind areas and paths, shrinkage of walls, and even destruction of the foundation. Nevertheless, there is no reason to rush to get rid of suburban property. It is not difficult to drain the territory - it is enough to build an efficient drainage system. The construction of drainage does not require any special skills, so you can easily do it yourself. As for knowledge, we will try to talk about the secrets of construction and give important recommendations in the course of work.

What indicates the need for drainage

A drainage system is necessary where the site is flooded even after a light rain

The question of whether a drainage system is needed for suburban area, as a rule, does not require a long study of the situation and analysis of natural factors. Most often, the inconvenience that occurs due to waterlogging of the soil appears after snowmelt or heavy rain. The beds are overgrown with sedge, paths and lawns occupy puddles for a long time, and basements and cellars suffer from dampness - these are the factors that indicate the need for drainage. Nevertheless, before investing time and money in arranging a drainage system, you should make sure that it is worthwhile. Several conditions will help to do this, indicating the need to drain the soil.

If the level of groundwater in dry season is located at a depth of less than 2.5 m, then during the rainy season the site can turn into a swamp. A small pit 50–80 cm deep will help you check your own assumptions. If in dry weather it fills with water in a day, then you can stop further research and start arranging the drainage without hesitation.

The site is located in a lowland and is subject to seasonal flooding, or the territory has significant differences in elevation.

Water does not soak into the ground for a long time due to clay and loamy soils that have waterproofing abilities. The presence of black soil on the site does not mean anything - clay deposits may well be under a thin fertile layer of soil.

Region in which it falls a large number of rainfall is not at all ideal for growing cultivated plants. Excessive moisture prevents the saturation of the soil with oxygen, which affects their health. To create ideal conditions for gardening or horticulture, excess moisture must be removed.

If at least one of these factors is confirmed in your country house, then the need for drainage can not be discussed. A high-quality drainage system will give a second life to cultivated plants, make the territory cleaner, save paths from deformation, and the foundation from destruction.

Varieties and arrangement of drainage systems

The problem of excessive soil moisture in the area can be solved by two types of drainage systems - surface and deep. The decision which one to use to drain your site directly depends on the reasons that lead to the flooding of the territory.

Surface (open) drain for collecting rainfall

Surface-type drainage is a system of storm water inlets designed to collect and remove rain and melt water outside the site, preventing it from soaking into the ground. Such a drainage system works excellently on clay soils and can complement the traditional storm sewer. Water is drained into filtration wells or outside the site. In addition, the lion's share of precipitation simply evaporates.

Point drainage is very often combined with a linear drainage system.

Depending on the design drain drains surface drainage is divided into two types:

point,

linear.

When arranging point drainage, wastewater is collected using storm dampers, drains, storm water inlets and ladders. Their installation sites are door wells, roof gutter drain points, areas under water taps and other areas that need local water collection. Point collectors are connected to underground pipes, through which effluent enters the storm sewer collector.

The trays of the linear drainage system are closed with gratings that prevent them from clogging.

Linear drainage can be near-wall or remote from structures. It is a system of grated trays for collecting precipitation that did not fall into the point storm water inlets. This method of drying is rational to use in such cases:

if there is a danger of washing off the upper, fertile soil layer. Most often, such a nuisance occurs in areas whose slope relative to the horizon is more than 3 degrees;

when the site is located in a lowland. Because of this, water flowing during rain and snowmelt poses a threat to buildings and green spaces;

to remove sediment from sidewalks and paths. In this case, pedestrian zones are arranged on a slight elevation, with a slope towards the drainage channel.

Linear also includes road drainage, which is made in the form of a ditch parallel to the roadbed for the movement of cars.

Arrangement of a deep drainage system is necessary where groundwater approaches the surface of the site closer than 2.5 meters. It takes a lot of space to build earthworks, therefore, it is best to build such drainage at the same time as digging foundation pits for the foundation of the house and outbuildings.

Prefabricated Drainage Pipes and Recommended Ground Types

For construction deep drainage perforated pipes (drains) are used, which are laid in the soil layer at an angle. The presence of holes allows drains to collect excess moisture and transport it to a storage collector, filtration well or drainage tunnel.

The slope of the drainage pipes must be at least 1%. For example, for a 20 m long highway, the height difference between the upper and lower points will be 20 cm.

Design features of deep drainage systems

Another common type of deep drainage is a reservoir or backfill system. It is made in the form of an underground channel, half filled with a filter pad made of crushed stone or crushed brick. To prevent the absorption of the collected moisture, the bottom of the formation drains is sealed with a layer of clay, on top of which a rolled waterproofing is laid.

The simplest and most effective methods of draining a summer cottage

Since drainage in the summer cottage and directly around the buildings can be performed different ways, we will focus on the simplest and least labor-intensive options.

How to reduce moisture levels without drainage

Many factors influence swampiness, therefore, in some cases, a summer plot can be drained without drainage. If a special relief contributes to the increased soil moisture, then it is quite simple to make the water flow outside the site. To do this, in some places the soil is removed, and in others it is poured, creating a small slope. If the selected soil is not enough, then it is imported from outside the garden area. It is better to add soil in the country with black soil or peat, and in order to make the soil lighter, 1/3 to 1/5 parts of sand are added to it.

A reservoir equipped at the bottom of the site is an excellent way to dispose of drainage water

In the event that water accumulates on the site due to closely spaced layers of clay, and the territory itself has a slight slope, then a small reservoir can be dug at the lowest point. It can be used as a natural reservoir for watering cultivated plants, turned into a fish pond or used as a decorative element of landscape design. Typically, due to high level groundwater, there is no need for additional waterproofing, but in some cases a special PVC film for pools will help make the reservoir airtight. To prevent the surface of the artificial lake from blooming, aquatic plants are planted along its banks.

Planting moisture-loving plants is a great way to normalize soil moisture. For example, an ordinary birch is a real pump that literally pumps water out of the ground. Spiraea, shadberry, hawthorn, wild rose, and, of course, willow and willow do a good job of draining the territory. Planted in problem areas, as well as along the paths, they will not only remove excess moisture, but will make the landscape original and attractive.

How to make drainage around a country house or outbuildings

For guard ground floor or a basement from melted and rain water around the summer houses construct wall drainage. This drainage system is most effective during the off-season, when the groundwater level reaches its maximum value. The construction of the "reclamation" system is best carried out at the stage of foundation construction, however, if the decision to build it was made due to the appearance of water in the basement, it's okay - better late than never.

Constant flooding threatens to destroy the foundation

The construction of the drainage is carried out in stages.

An inclined trench is being dug along the perimeter of the building, which should be 0.5 m deeper than the lowest point of the foundation. Height differences are measured and poles are set at control points. To organize effective drainage, make a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 running meter.

Prepare the foundation. To do this, the concrete surface is cleaned of soil, treated with a bitumen-kerosene primer and a waterproofing rubber-bitumen mastic is applied. While the resin is not frozen, it is pressed into its surface reinforced mesh for plastering (cell 2x2 mm). After the bitumen has dried, another layer of sealant is applied on top.

Digging a trench and sealing the foundation

The bottom of the ditch is lined with geotextile, on top of which a layer of gravel (granite screenings) is poured. Controlling the slope, a semicircular bed is arranged along the length of the trench in the thickness of the gravel for laying drainage pipes.

Drainage pipes are laid in a "pie" of crushed stone and geotextile

If it is not possible to purchase special perforated pipes, then they can be made from ordinary polymer sewer PVC pipes. To do this, drillings are performed in their walls, the diameter of which should be slightly smaller than the size of individual grains of gravel or granotsev.

With the help of crosses and tees, drains are interconnected and connected to a drainage pipe leading to a sewer. To control the slope, use a water level or a building cord stretched along the highway. Each turn of the drainage system is provided with a manhole or vertical section installed pipe, the top of which is covered with a lid. These elements of the system will be needed to clean the pipeline from blockages.

Vertical manholes allow you to monitor the condition of the drainage and, if necessary, clean it

Next, the pipeline is covered with washed gravel of medium fraction (20-60 mm) to a height of 20-30 cm, after which it is wrapped with the edges of the geotextile fabric.

Since the drainage and storm systems are being built at the same time, a recess is made in the crushed stone layer for storm pipes. After their installation, the trench to a height of 10–15 cm is covered with large river sand, and then with soil dug during earthworks.

Drainage around the house can be done in two ways - close to the foundation and at a distance from it

You should not hurry with the arrangement of the blind area around the house - it is necessary to withstand time for the soil to shrink in the trench. For concrete pouring and laying paving slabs start only after the soil is completely compacted.

Video: construction of a low-budget deep drainage system with one well

Drainage of a suburban area: the easiest method

A surface drainage system allows you to avoid unnecessary financial costs and build drainage facilities on a large summer cottage. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture during heavy rains or during the period of snowmelt.

When arranging open drainage earthworks are carried out in accordance with the instructions below.

Having carefully studied the terrain, determine the number and trajectory of channels for collecting and diverting water. In parallel with this, they are looking for a place for a spillway. You can build a sewer well at the lowest point of the site, or even bring the drainage channel out of it. Excavation sites are marked with a cord and pegs.

Experienced builders determine the points for laying storm drains and a prefabricated collector, observing the flows of rain or melt water, planning the location of channels in such a way as to optimally combine individual streams into a common stream.

In the marked places, trenches are dug 40–50 cm wide and no more than 0.5 m deep. To avoid shedding of the walls, they are made not vertical, but inclined - the bevel should be 25–30 degrees.

Preparation of drainage ditches

When constructing canals, they must withstand a slope of 1–2%. To control the level, water can be poured into the bottom of the ditch - it must drain towards the storage tank.

Next, they deal, in fact, with drainage. Depending on the degree of aesthetics, landscape design requirements or personal preferences, it can be tray or backfill. In the first case, the arrangement of channels looks like this:

the bottom of the ditch to a height of up to 10 cm is covered with sand and compacted well with a manual rammer;

plastic trays are installed in the trench;

install sand traps;

decorative grilles are attached to the trays. Their function is to protect the channels from leaves and debris, as well as to increase the aesthetics of the structure.

Laying trays will make the drainage system durable and aesthetic

In the second case, the construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

the bottom and walls of the trenches are covered with geotextile sheets;

the ditches are covered with a layer of crushed stone up to 20 cm thick. It is best if there is a small quarrystone or crushed stone of a large fraction below, and a finer one on top;

crushed stone is covered with the edges of the geotextile, after which it is sprinkled with sand.

For the arrangement of drainage, you can also use the old, "old-fashioned" method - the construction of fascines. For this, branches of alder, willow or birch are harvested, which are tied into armfuls 15 cm thick so that thin twigs are on one side and thick ones on the other. Bundles of branches are not laid on the ground, but on pegs previously installed along the entire length of the trenches, connected like anti-tank "hedgehogs". Brushwood is placed with thick branches up and compacted along the edges with moss. If everything is done correctly, then we can count on a 20-year operation of the reclamation system.

To protect the walls of the channels from collapse, rubble stone or turf is used. The trenches are decorated by constructing ridges along their edges with perennial moisture-loving plants, such as irises.

One way to make the drainage channel more attractive is to plant ornamental plants.

Drainage of a suburban area: the traditional way

No matter how simple and cheap an open drainage system is, it has one significant drawback - low aesthetics. Agree what to do landscape design on a site with a whole network of channels is not an easy task. In this case, it is better not to save money and build a durable and efficient deep-type dehumidification system.

The best scheme for laying drainage pipes is the "herringbone". In it, the side lines converge to one central pipe, which is led into a sewer well or outside the site.

Diagram of a deep drainage system

If the drainage system is needed not to protect the foundation, but in order to reduce soil moisture, then the depth of the trenches is chosen based on the recommended values:

for soils with a high percentage of minerals - up to 1.5 m;

when installed under flower beds - from 0.5 to 0.8 m;

in places where fruit trees are planted - up to 1.5 m;

for peaty soils - from 1 to 1.6 m;

under ornamental shrubs and trees - up to 0.9 m.

For drainage use special polymer pipes with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Ideally, their type and quantity is determined by a calculation that takes into account soil moisture, its type, precipitation, etc., however, if you do drainage with your own hands, it is cheaper to buy PVC water pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and make a grid of holes in them with step 40-60 mm independently.

Indoor drainage trenches can be dug manually or with earthmoving equipment.

After the ditches are dug, proceed to the main part of the work.

Depending on the type of soil, a decision is made on the need for laying geotextiles. It can not be used on clay soils - it is enough to fill the bottom with gravel to a height of up to 20 cm. On loamy soils, pipes can be wrapped with any filter cloth, while sandy and sandy soils require pipes to be laid in a layer of gravel with obligatory wrapping with geotextile materials.

At the bottom of the trenches, a sandy shock-absorbing cushion 10 cm thick is equipped.

The bottom and walls of the trench are covered with geotextile fabric, after which they are covered with a layer of fine gravel 10–15 cm thick.

You can fix geotextiles on the walls of the trench using fragments of bricks or pegs driven into the walls.

Observing the slopes, they lay and connect drainage pipes into a single network.

The pipes are covered with crushed stone to a height of 20–25 cm, after which this “pie” is wrapped around the edges of the filter sheets.

Backfilling of perforated drainage pipes with crushed stone

The remaining space of the trenches is filled with previously excavated soil and carefully rammed.

Above the drainage pipes, you can plant flower beds, plant a garden or sow a lawn. It is only important to wait until the earth in the trenches shrinks, add it to the general level and carefully compact it. Otherwise, the pattern of the drainage system will appear in the form of ugly depressions in the landscape of the summer cottage.

It is not recommended to use crushed limestone for arranging drainage. Firstly, at a depth it is compressed and will not let moisture through, and secondly, its interaction with the soil can provoke the appearance of a salt marsh.

Video: construction of a closed drainage system in a summer cottage

Maintenance and cleaning of drainage in the country

Although a properly built deep or surface drainage system does not need frequent preventive measures, some work cannot be avoided. Content manholes should be checked periodically, clearing soil particles using a pump to dirty water and pumps high pressure. When pumping mud from a drainage well, a long pole is used to shake up bottom sediments. Complete flushing is required in case of severe silting of pipes, as well as every 10-15 years of operation of the drainage system.

High pressure water systems are best for cleaning drain pipes

To free the line from sand deposits, the pipeline must be accessible from both sides. Rinsing is carried out with a strong jet of water, which is alternately directed from one side of the pipe, then from the other side.

If you have to deal with persistent deposits of dirt and clay, then you can use the traditional plumbing technique - cleaning pipes with a long cable and a stiff bristle ruff brush. By combining mechanical action with flushing, it is possible to completely remove long-term deposits on drainage pipes.

In case of channel blockage surface systems you can resort to cleaning them with saltpeter. To do this, the turf and the top backfill are removed from the trenches, after which saltpeter is evenly scattered on the crushed stone layer. Then the “pie” is poured abundantly with water and the upper layers are returned to their place. This method allows you to extend the performance of the system for more than one year, but you can only use it as a last resort - saltpeter is a source of nitrates, and its excess negatively affects the quality of the soil.

Video: how to flush a deep-type drainage system

High-quality drainage system will protect the foundation and basement country house from flooding, will add health and strength to green spaces. The cost of land reclamation measures is not so high as to refuse them, especially since you can build drainage on the site with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be easily found in the distribution network, and earthmoving equipment will help speed up the work.

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Drainage in the garden is quite important element which is vital for many land plots. Given the high cost of any construction works, self-construction of the drainage system is of great relevance, because it can be done with the help of improvised means and some materials. Thus, it becomes possible to provide a summer cottage with a high-quality drain without the involvement of specialists. To perform drainage work, you will need the following tools:

• trowel;
• shovel;
• wheelbarrow;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw.

Of course, it is desirable to have at least a little experience in construction work, and in this case, the installation of the drainage system will be a simple and labor-intensive task.

Stone and fashin drainage in the garden

There are many types of drainage systems, and the most common makeshift designs are devices created using fascines. Fascins are made from some types of wood (oak, hazel or birch are suitable). How to make them? Goats are installed along the trench. The selected branches are laid with a butt on the cross, after which they must be tightly tied with a rope or wire. If you do not tie the bundles, then the drainage with their use will become clogged very quickly.

Each fascine bundle should be at least 30 cm thick, with thick branches forming the center, and small branches tied on the sides. Fashin laying starts from the top of the ditch. In addition, from the sides you need to lay bunches of moss. To connect a trench with a pit, you need to create a source with a socket made of boards.

Such a system can last about 25 years, especially if it is located on peat soil. Stone drainage can be a good alternative to a fascinated system. To equip the stone system, crushed stone about 8-10 cm in size is selected. The bottom of the trench is laid with such stones, and the free space is laid with smaller particles. The thickness of the stone layer in the trench should be at least 30 cm. top layer there will be turf, grass down. In this case, trenches with a depth of about 1 meter are sufficient.

Do-it-yourself wooden and ceramic drainage

A fairly popular type of drainage system are wooden or ceramic. How are they created? Before starting work, it is necessary to deal with the relief of the site and draw up a diagram of all the slopes. Then a trench is dug, and initially you need to figure out how the drainage system will work. For ceramic drainage systems, pipes with an internal diameter of at least 5 cm are used. The pipes should be laid in the trench as tightly as possible, and all joints should be laid with moss or other similar material.

At the junction of the drainage pipeline with the reservoir, a wooden pipe is created, which will be the source, and another pipe, also made of wood, enters it. As a result, the trench is filled up, covered with turf and covered with earth. The depth of the trench in this case will also be about 1 meter.

For a wooden device, three boards are required. The perimeter of the pipes is laid with moss, and the rest of the space is covered with crushed stone and fine gravel. It is very important to do this work carefully so as not to damage the pipe. After laying the pipeline and filling it up, you can lay a layer of turf and earth.

Pipes are mounted from the source. For drainage, you can use poles (coniferous branches about 7-10 cm thick are especially popular). Before laying the poles, it is necessary to clean them from the bark. The laying of the poles is carried out on pre-placed transverse partitions. You can make one or two layers of poles, it all depends on personal preference. If necessary, brushwood can be used for the drainage system, and the algorithm of actions will completely repeat the order described above. This is an excellent drainage in the garden plot with your own hands, but in this case we are not talking about durability. See also: "How to properly drain the site - options for arranging a drainage system".

Soft garden drainage

Geotextiles and tecton are very popular on the market today. These are excellent materials that are great for soft drainage systems. Tecton has excellent water-absorbing properties, and water does not come out back. Geotextile works on a different principle: it allows water to pass through itself, but any solid particles stop (read: "Which geotextile is better to choose for drainage - types, differences, features of use"). The soft drainage system is quite easy to install and is great for vegetable gardens.

How to make soft drainage in the garden or at their summer cottage? First, a trench or drainage hole is dug. The main thing is to observe the slope, which will allow the water to go towards the ditch or reservoir. The bottom of the trench is laid by the tecton in such a way that its shape resembles a trough. Then the ditch must be covered with geotextile, and it must be laid with a margin of about 40 cm upwards so that an overlap can be created.

A layer of drainage material (crushed stone or gravel) is laid on top of the geotextile, which should occupy approximately 2/3 of the height of the trench. This material is wrapped with the free edges of the geotextile, after which the entire structure is covered with sand and leveled. Such drainage on a garden plot with your own hands is quite simple, and in terms of characteristics it is quite comparable with the highest quality and complex systems. See also: "How to make drainage of the site with your own hands - types of drainage systems, device rules".

open type drainage

personal plots, which are located in lowlands, are often subject to problems associated with high humidity. The reason for this is simple: the soil does not absorb water, since its level in such places is often very high. You can solve the problem with an open type drainage.

It is not difficult to create such a drainage of a garden plot with your own hands: the design is quite simple and reliable. To arrange open-type drainage, a trench 50 cm wide is dug around the perimeter of the site, and one of its sides must be inclined by 40 degrees to ensure water flow. Water through such a drain will leave quite quickly, and there are practically no difficulties in creating it. Of course, this type of drainage is not suitable for everyone, because few people want to observe the ditches around their site. But for those who have no problems with such trifles, such a system will be an extremely successful find.

closed type drainage

Such drainage is much more complicated, and it will cost more, but its advantages are obvious - high reliability and good aesthetic qualities. To implement a system of this type, it is necessary to lay pipes along the entire length of the trench and create additional side branches from them, which will allow water to be drained from the entire site, and not just from its borders. Auxiliary routes in this case are dug out about a meter from the foundation of the building.

The depth of the trenches will depend on the abundance of vegetation: if there are large trees, the depth will be about one and a half meters, and if there are only small bushes on the site, then half a meter depth will be enough.

This design allows you to hide the entire system underground, so its elements will not be visible. At the end of the pipeline, it is desirable to install a collector well, which will collect waste water. At correct installation and setting closed drainage will ensure sufficient drainage of the site, and there will be no problems with flooding.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drainage systems for garden plots can be built without any problems. Each of them has its own characteristics and characteristics, and the final choice will depend on the owner of the site. If the system is chosen correctly, then after its installation, the working processes will be invisible, as well as any problems associated with excess water on the site.