How to make sewer drainage on clay soil. How to make drainage of the foundation of a house with your own hands on clay soils. Description of open and closed types of drainage

Important Points

The geofabric serves as an additional filter that prevents large debris from entering the drainage system. It is believed that in clay soils its use is optional.

The lack of slope will lead to stagnant water and silting of the drainage line. The slope is from 1 to 7 centimeters per meter of pipeline.

The backfill layer should not be less than 15 centimeters. This rule is relevant for both gravel and sand or soil.

The depth of the main canals is from 40 centimeters to 1.2 meters. Less or more depth will make the system inefficient.

Nature does not always arrange everything exactly the way we want. This is especially noticeable in our own land plot. One of the problems can be periodic flooding of the earth after snow melts or heavy rains. The solution is obvious - a drainage system is needed, especially if the soil is poorly permeable.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils is quite feasible, although time-consuming. It is important to correctly perform some calculations and take into account a number of features of clay soils.

When planning a drainage system, first determine the type of soil in your area. In our case, the permeability of the soil layer is important. If its degree is high, then drainage may simply not be required.

On clay soils, everything is different: they are heavy, they do not pass moisture well, so they dry for a long time. What kind Negative consequences this gives?

Let's start with basic discomfort. If the region is famous for snowy winters, then in spring the land on the site is almost like a swamp. Walking is almost impossible - dirty and slippery. Plus, no gardening work: is it possible to do something on muddy soils?

Vegetation will also suffer. Soil that is oversaturated with moisture does not pass oxygen to the root systems very well. Outcome - oxygen starvation, oppression and even death of landings. This is clearly visible if there is a lawn on the site: the soil there is dense in itself, since loosening is not carried out. Flooding is especially dangerous when the crop begins to ripen. The quality of clay soil in the beds and in the garden can be gradually improved, but it is very difficult to do this on the entire site.

Wet soils are a real resort for some snails and slugs. These pests can noticeably spoil plantings, especially vegetables. Waterlogging of the soil can unpredictably damage the foundations of buildings. Even high-quality waterproofing can fail over time if the soils are subject to deep freezing. It's just not safe anymore.

Does groundwater flow relatively close under clay soils? This could become another problem. The soil in this case is practically deprived of a chance to dry properly. Any serious downpour, and the earth literally turns into mush.

Conclusion: drainage of the site on clay soils is necessary. All problems are immediately resolved: the earth dries much faster than before, you can make beautiful paths and not be afraid that they will “float”, the garden is flourishing in every sense.

What soil do you have?

It is not difficult to determine the degree of soil permeability. Dig a small diameter hole 0.6 m deep and fill it with water. Moisture has gone deep in a day? This means that the soil has high permeability. Two days have passed, but the pit has not yet become empty, which means that the soil is definitely heavy. Draining the site with your own hands is definitely necessary.

How to make drainage on the site

How to make a site drainage on clay soil with your own hands? The type of drainage system depends on several factors:

• land area;
• estimated amount of precipitation, groundwater and meltwater;
• financial opportunities.

According to the method of the device, the drainage on the site can be superficial and buried. In the first case, shallow trenches and special trays are needed, which are covered with gratings. The second trench is much deeper. They are lined with geotextile, then a layer of rubble is poured, drainage pipes (drains) are laid.

Above and on both sides of the pipes there is another layer of gravel, over which the edges of the textile are overlapped and fixed. Then - backfilling with soil.

On the heavy soils it is recommended to combine both methods. Surface drainage will ensure rapid runoff of melt and sedimentary water. The inhabitants of the site do not have to wait until the moisture itself seeps into the soil. The recessed part of the drainage system will reliably direct the water to the right place.

There are two more important points:

1. In heavy soils, it is undesirable to lay drains where the car will drive (park). The earth in this place will quickly condense, and this part of the system will simply become useless.
2. At the stage of digging trenches, the ground in the places where drainage canals are installed must be carefully loosened. This will temporarily increase its permeability and slightly slow down caking and compaction.

Design

In a small area, you can do without serious engineering calculations. It is enough to visualize the whole system clearly.

1. Take a plan of your site, preferably to scale. All buildings must be marked on it. At the time of design, you should already know if the site has a natural slope. Most often this can be seen without any instruments. There are doubts - invite a specialist with a level.
2. Start drawing the future drainage system on the plan. The main thing is the main canal, the main drainage system. It runs from the highest point of the site to the lowest. If the site is flat, then the direction of the main drainage system can be chosen arbitrarily, and the slope can be artificially formed.
3. Then you need to design where additional drainage ditches will pass. On clay soils, the distance between them should be about ten meters. The finished drainage system in its appearance on the plan resembles a Christmas tree.

If it is possible to make a combined drainage, then at the end of each "branch" and at the beginning of the main, areas for rapid collection of water from the surface should be provided.

An important question: where will the excess water go? There are three most popular options:

1. Ditch along the road (it is desirable to coordinate with the neighbors "downstream").
2. Decorative swamp on the site.
3. Underground water well with a drainage pump.

Performance

For in-depth drainage, trenches with a depth of 1 - 1.2 and a width of 0.35 meters will be required. The amount of geotextiles, crushed stone, pipes, connecting and other elements is calculated in advance based on the drainage scheme. Tools required:

• bayonet and shovel for earthworks;
• wheelbarrow or stretcher (remove soil, bring and pour rubble);
• for the correct formation of the slope - rail and level;
• hacksaw to cut pipes.

It is important to remember: the slope is formed at the rate of approximately 1 cm per meter of pipe.

After the geofabric, crushed stone, pipes and drainage trays are laid, it is important not to rush into the final backfilling of the soil. Given the complexity of the soil, the drainage system needs to be tested. If possible, wait for a suitable downpour, if not, simulate precipitation with a hose and a stream of water.

If the flows regularly pass the entire system from beginning to end, the tests can be considered successfully passed. If the water stagnates, it is advisable to lay additional channels.

The device of drainage on clay soil will significantly improve the condition of the site, increase the comfort of staying on it after the snow has melted or heavy rainfall, and will facilitate gardening.

In some places, groundwater comes close enough to the surface of the earth. Another problem can be heavy rainfall and water generated during snowmelt. Excessive moisture causes the death of crops, destroys the foundation of the house and household buildings. The solution to the problem will allow the creation of a do-it-yourself drainage system. This is a labor-intensive process in which a significant amount of land work is performed.

It is desirable to deal with the arrangement of drainage at the stage of development of a country or garden plot. At the same time, it is necessary to collect information about the state of the land, professional hydrogeological studies and a system design are needed. However, most gardeners bypass this stage and create drainage in their small area on their own, based on a specific situation.

What water should be drained?

There are several sources of moisture entering the site, and a different approach is important to eliminate the influence of each of them. They are characterized by their own characteristics and require different actions to drain water.

ground water

Such waters have a pronounced seasonal character and appear in spring. At ground water There is an input source and an output zone. They are more common in sandy soil.

The fact of the presence of groundwater can be established using wells. It is important to note the level of infiltrated moisture during drilling and compare it with the steady state level after a certain time after its appearance.

The drainage system must be installed when the groundwater level is 0.5 m below the foundation. In a different situation, there is a threat of gradual destruction of the foundation and an obstacle to the normal development of plants. It is necessary to create a system of channels and drainage pipes mounted at a depth of 25-35cm. below groundwater level. In this option, moisture will be removed to the lowlands, and waterlogging of the soil can be prevented.

surface water

Clay soils are one of the reasons for excess water in the garden. Such soils are dense, do not pass moisture well. After rainy days, snow melting, water stagnation is observed on clay lands. Puddles interfere with normal movement around the site, the soil slips underfoot, and the roots of plants are deprived of air exchange. Drying, it becomes covered with a crust, which is not easy to loosen and dig.

Upper level waters

Verkhovodka - waters that, after being absorbed by the soil, encounter an obstacle in the form of a viscous layer of clay, which delays further penetration. This situation occurs on the ground with highly placed water-resistant layers, which usually indicates construction errors. They are evidenced by situations when, as a result of rain, puddles remain on the site and in the dug channels for a long time, after a certain time after the completion of construction, moisture appears on the walls of the basement.

To divert the top water, you will have to equip the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands ( optimal solution- system of drainage channels). Backfilling the foundation with clay, followed by tamping, will protect the foundation from upper-level waters. Next, a blind area is made, wider than the backfill, and storm drains are diverted. During work, it is important to exclude the formation of pockets where water could stagnate.

On an inclined site, it is advisable to equip terraces and concrete retaining walls, along which it is important to place drainage ditches. Resist perched water in summer cottages located below others will allow adding soil, since dumping wastewater nowhere else. An alternative is to draw drainage through neighbors' gardens or along a common road to a reservoir.

Budget options for protection against excess moisture

If it is possible to do without the expensive arrangement of the drainage system, you can try other measures:

• organization of the blind area;
• organization storm sewer;
• arrangement of upland ditches;
• foundation waterproofing.

It makes sense to place the upland ditch on a slope, next to the site. It is located higher, "intercepts" the water, takes it to the gutter or reservoir.

Waterproofing is carried out at the stage of foundation construction, laying a layer of modern waterproofing material. Additionally, the inner surface of the walls of the lower floor and basement is treated with penetrating waterproofing.

Types of drainage

If none of budget options does not suit or does not lead to the desired effect, you will have to arrange the drainage of the site with your own hands. According to the principle of creation, it is local and general. Local drainage solves specific problems (drainage ground floors, building foundations). The general one is created when the entire territory of the site or its waterlogged part is drained.

Types of implementation of drainage systems

Several schemes of drainage systems have been developed on the territory of the site:

1. Ring. Drainage pipes form a closed loop around the site, the house. They are laid 25-35 cm below the groundwater level. The scheme is rarely used due to the complexity of implementation (often a serious depth is required for the location of the drainage system).
2. Wall. It helps to divert water from the walls, so it is settled at a distance of 1.5-2.5 m from them. At the same time, the drain is located 5-10 cm below the level of rubble under the floor of the basement.
3. Systematic. Developed and evenly distributed network of drainage canals throughout the territory. Drains are laid with a certain, pre-calculated step.
4. Beam. It consists of a system of channels and drains, combined into a common system, resembling a Christmas tree in appearance. Installed to prevent flooding.
5. Plast. Removes perched water and is used in conjunction with wall drainage system when creating a slab foundation. Reservoir drainage - layers of non-metallic materials poured into the pit, and waterproofing. Reinforcement is laid on top of them, and then the foundation is poured.

Mounting methods

The type of drainage system is determined individually, based on the tasks to be solved at the site. The way to install them is as follows:

1. Closed. Excess water flows through special openings into drainage pipes, through which it is discharged into a storage well or reservoir. This outlet is well suited for soils with a high content of sand that pass water well.
2. Open. On the territory of the site (or around), channels with walls at an angle of 20-30º are carefully dug out, ceramic or concrete catchment trays are laid in them. To protect against debris brought by the wind, the ditches are covered with gratings. To prevent the canal walls from crumbling, their slopes are strengthened with stones or plants are planted.
3. Zasypnoy. It is applied on loamy soils and territories with viscous clay soils. Drainage pipes with holes are laid in deep ditches, where a backfill of sand and gravel is arranged, collecting water from closely spaced dense soils. The amount of backfill depends on the degree of moisture impermeability of local soils. The worse they conduct water, the more powerful the backfill.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site is a network of interconnected channels located in the territory that needs to be protected from excess moisture. Special plastic pipes have holes 1.5-5mm through which excess moisture enters from the soil. The pipes are wrapped in several filter layers, the amount of which depends on the composition of the soil. For clay soils, pipes with three layers of filter textiles are used.

The diameter of plastic pipes for private houses is up to 100mm, with the removal of significant amounts of moisture - up to 150mm. In the places of their connection and rotation, revision wells are installed. Such elements make it easier to clean when clogged and allow you to observe the system. Water flows into a single catchment well or discharge point (reservoir, ravine). A special collector well can be replaced by a concrete ring where pipes are led out. In such a case, it is important to provide a ring cover to prevent debris from entering.

Drainage pipes

Pipes for the drainage system can be purchased ready-made or made by hand. If there is no financial opportunity to buy these drainage components, they will help out plastic bottles. They are durable, so the system based on them will last at least 50 years. When creating a pipe, a hole is cut in the back of the bottle, where the neck of the next bottle is inserted. In another version, the bottles are simply stacked one behind the other with tightly closed corks.

From the many bottles made in this way, a closed drainage system is formed, which creates an air cushion in the trench. Sand is pre-filled at the bottom of the trench. For the system to work, several pipes made in a similar way should be placed side by side. From above, it is advisable to cover the rows of pipes from bottles with geotextiles. Water passes through the gaps between adjacent bottles.

You can create a drainage pipe from a sewer. To make holes in it for the penetration of moisture will allow the "Bulgarian". Cuts 10-20 cm long are made in the pipe, distributing the holes evenly over the surface.

It is important to provide a certain number of cuts in order to sewage pipe has not lost strength. The width of the holes should be up to 5 mm, the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm.

A drill will also allow you to make holes. It is important to ensure that their diameter is less than the fraction of crushed stone being poured (otherwise it will fall into the pipe). The distance between the holes is up to 10 cm.

bias

The collected water flows easily by gravity with a properly selected slope of the drainage system. Its minimum value is 2mm per running meter pipes, maximum - 5mm. With shallow drainage, the slope is set to 1-3 cm per 1 meter. At high speed water movement sucks in small particles of soil, which causes silting of pipes.

Changing the standard slope is possible in the following situations:

• an increase in the slope is carried out when it is necessary to divert a large volume of water per unit of time without increasing the diameter of the drain;
• reducing the slope is advisable if it is necessary to avoid backwater when laying pipes below groundwater.

Drain installation

Preparation for the installation of drainage around the garden house requires digging trenches of given dimensions with approximate observance of the slope. The bottom of the trenches is leveled, covered with a layer of coarse-grained river sand (about 100 mm), and carefully compacted.

The prepared sand is covered with geotextile, the fabric of which is lined along the walls of the trench. Next comes a layer of granite rubble 150-250mm high (on loams - 250mm, on sandy soils - 150mm). Its fraction depends on the diameter of the holes in the drainage pipes: for holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm, crushed stone of a fraction of 6-8 mm is taken, for others it is larger.

Crushed stone is carefully leveled to the required slope, compacted, after which a drainage pipe is laid on the formed “cushion”. It is covered with gravel in several layers, each of which is compacted (there must be at least 100 mm of gravel on top of the drainage system). The ends of the geotextile are wrapped so that the overlap is about 20 cm. It is covered with coarse sand to a height of 100-300cm. A layer of "native" earth is placed on the compacted coating.

It is important to lay drainage from the lowest place in the territory where the collector well is previously installed. With a high level of surface and ground waters, water will accumulate in the equipped ditches, forming a fluid mixture in combination with clay.

Getting into the well, it can provoke blockages. In addition, the accumulated water interferes with the laying of drains, since the ditches must be dry. Side pits with crushed stone will allow to temporarily divert water.

backfill materials

When arranging a drain, it is important to competently approach the selection of non-metallic materials that act as backfill. Crushed stone must be granite, or hard lime-free. Marble and dolomite (lime) are not used to create a drainage cushion, as they are affected by moisture. Crushed stone must be washed so that the pipes do not silt.

Order washed gravel from manufacturers desired type and factions are not a problem. However, how to determine whether the existing crushed stone is suitable for draining? It is enough to drop vinegar on it and determine whether a reaction occurs. When hissing and foam appear, such non-metallic material cannot be used (belongs to the calcareous group).

When selecting sand, a coarse-grained fraction with a size of 0.5-1 mm is preferred. To determine its purity, pour some of it with water, shake it up and evaluate the transparency of the liquid when the sand settles. Turbid water indicates that the sand needs to be washed. Many modern suppliers of non-metallic materials are ready to provide high-quality, pre-washed sand in any volume.

Properly equipped drainage on clay soil will significantly improve the condition of the land allotment, avoiding slush underfoot after snow melts and heavy rainfall. It will serve without repair for more than a dozen years, it will allow you to do gardening and gardening for your own pleasure. If desired, you can develop landscape design, which will disguise or advantageously beat the drainage system.

When designing and building a house, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil. This applies both to their composition, bearing capacity, and to the presence of ground and surface waters. Wet soil is more prone to heaving, which leads to foundation deformations. In addition to directly groundwater, which enters the foundation from the depth of the soil, the structures are also negatively affected by surface moisture that enters the soil from the atmosphere.

Water drainage systems

problem high level water on the site must be addressed comprehensively. To begin with, it is important to conduct geological surveys to determine the level of groundwater and their presence in the soil. To do this, a certain number of pits are arranged, in each of which the level of accumulated moisture is measured. These data will be required in the future for design and drainage.

In general, two types of drainage are arranged on the site:

• surface, which is a storm sewer;
• deep - to reduce the level of groundwater.

Surface drainage is a system of elements through which atmospheric water is collected in special trays and ditches and discharged into the nearest water bodies, storm sewer network or into the soil. Water is collected from the roofs through the gutters and from the very surface of the soil.

Deep drainage is also called the drainage system of the site. They are located below the ground surface and are a system of pipelines, the water from which is also discharged outside the territory. Drainage of clay soil is especially important, as this soil is not able to absorb water.

Features of clay soils

With well-structured soil, water, which appears in excess, is itself discharged from the surface and from the depth of the base. Otherwise, special measures are required. Clay bases are dangerous because surface water is unable to soak into them. In some cases, this leads to swamping of the site. This makes it difficult to use it for agricultural purposes, and also leads to the constant threat of getting wet basements and destroying foundations.

Special drainage requirements must be established in such cases:

• For heavy clay soils. Such land is subject to waterlogging for long periods of time. This is especially dangerous in regions with prolonged rainfall.
• Medium structured soils in regions with high rainfall. These are light clays and loams, which in general are able to absorb some moisture.

How to make drainage in a clay area and what materials are used for this? Let's analyze this issue in more detail.

materials

What materials are needed for work? The main element of drainage is a pipe. For the system, perforated tubes are used, into which moisture seeps from the soil. The tubes are laid at a slope and connected to the main channel. Through which water is discharged into a well or reservoir. In general, the scheme of a deep drainage system, regardless of the scope of application (protection of the foundation, use on agricultural land to protect plants from excessive moisture) consists of the following elements:

1. Water intake. For these purposes, either natural formations (rivers, lakes, canals) are used, or wells are arranged. For small areas, wells are more often used, in which water is from collectors. From the wells themselves, water seeps into the soil, if at a depth it is able to accept moisture, or is pumped out by pumps as it fills into natural reservoirs.
2. Main canal. It is laid from the highest point of the site to the lowest. All the moisture collected by the system drains through this channel. For small drainage systems, it is not used.
3. closed collectors. These are pipelines in which moisture is collected from several drainage pipes.
4. Viewing wells.
5. Drainage pipelines.

As pipes, plastic products, ceramic perforated or asbestos-cement pipes with cuts are used. Now the bowl is used perforated pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyethylene (PE). PE pipes are more flexible, which expands their scope. Specialized drainage pipelines have factory-made perforations. For them, filtration systems made of coconut fiber or geotextiles are used.

The main advantages of plastic drainage pipelines:

• ease;
• ease of installation;
• the corrugated wall of the pipe helps protect the perforation from dirt sticking;
• application flexibility.

How to make foundation drainage on clay soil? Consider the phased implementation of such a system in a problem area.

Drainage device on clay soil

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out some calculations and select the scheme and materials used. For small areas, this can be done on your own:

1. First of all, the relief and slopes are determined. To do this, it is necessary to study the topographic plan or take measurements using a level. It is important to determine the highest and lowest points on the surface of the site.
2. A main canal is being laid on the site plan. It is arranged from the highest point to the lowest. If the section is without a slope, then the channel is traced arbitrarily. In this case, it is important to arrange the slope artificially.
3. Drainage pipelines are laid in such a way that the distance between them is no more than 10 meters, and they flow down a slope into the main canal.
4. Determine where to collect water. To do this, use natural and artificial ditches outside the site or arrange other elements. For example, reservoirs. It could be an ornamental pond. Also often used prefabricated wells. In this case, the water from them is pumped by drainage pumps. There is also the option that at the bottom of the well there will be sandy soil, which is able to absorb accumulated moisture.

After preparation and planning, they proceed to do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils:

1. Perform excavation. To do this, dig trenches for main and drainage pipelines. The depth of the trench is selected depending on the lower level of the foundation. On average, they are located at a depth of 1-1.5 m. If a house with a basement is planned, then the drainage pipes must be buried below the level of the basement floor. The width of the trench is 0.3-0.4 m. Do not forget about the slope. In addition to the main channel, it is also necessary for the main drainage pipes at the rate of 1 cm of slope per 1 m of the channel or pipeline.
2. In places of wells, pits are dug for the dimensions of the products.
3. The bottom of the trench is lined with geotextile.
4. Crushed stone (10-20 cm) is poured onto the geotextile.
5. Next, the pipelines are located directly.
6. If necessary, drainage pumps and pipelines from them outside the site are installed in the wells.
7. After laying, do not immediately fill the system with soil. It needs to be checked. To do this, wait for precipitation or use water from a hose. The flow of water through all pipelines should be checked. If necessary, change the slope or lay additional pipes between the designed ones.

After checking the trenches fall asleep. The system is ready to use! Do not forget about the regular maintenance and cleaning of drainage wells, storm water inlets and channels. The system is designed to work for many years.

Flooding of a site with groundwater and meltwater can be a real disaster for its owner. Precipitation can also contribute to the violation of the soil structure. It is especially bad for the owners of land consisting mainly of clay or loam, since clay greatly retains water, hardly passing it through itself. In these cases, the only salvation may be a properly constructed drainage. For such soil, it has its own characteristics. Therefore, we will consider how to make drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils.

Plants suffer from an excess of moisture in the first place. Their roots do not receive the amount of oxygen necessary for development. The result is deplorable - the plants wither at first, and then completely disappear. Moreover, this also applies to cultivated plants, and to lawn grasses. Even in cases where clay is covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, water will be difficult to drain.

The comfort of work on the site is also important, because in the absence of a drain, even a little rain can turn clay soil into a swamp. It will be impossible to work on such land for several days.

When the water does not leave for a long time, there is a risk of flooding the foundation and freezing it when cold weather sets in. Even very good waterproofing is sometimes not able to protect the foundation from destruction, since it itself can be destroyed by frozen moisture.

We conclude: drainage of the site from groundwater is simply necessary. And if it has not been done yet, then you should not postpone its construction.

Preparation for the construction of the drainage system

Before choosing the type of drainage system, you should analyze your site.

Attention is drawn to the following points:

• Soil structure. In our case, clay is considered, which is not able to quickly pass water;
• Source of high moisture. This may be frequent precipitation or groundwater lying close to the surface;
• The type of drainage is selected or several types are combined;
• A plan is drawn up for the location of drainage trenches, revision and catchment wells. The plan indicates the depth of the drains, the dimensions of all elements of the system, their slope relative to the soil surface. The plan will allow you to quickly find the location of all elements of the system.

After such preparation, they begin to build the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils. Consider what kind of drainage happens, and which one better fit in relation to the clay area.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage in a clayey area can be surface, deep or reservoir. Sometimes it is advisable to combine several of these types to achieve the greatest drainage efficiency.

Surface drainage

If the site has even a slight natural slope, this creates additional advantages for surface drainage. Water flows by itself through the channels laid on the site to the designated place. Such channels are located on the surface of the soil, slightly deepening them into the ground. Surface drainage of a site on clay soils can be laid on almost any level ground: along paths, around a building, along the perimeter of lawns, near recreation areas and in other places.

Reservoir drainage

Created this variety drainage before foundation construction begins. The soil deepens below its location by at least 20 cm. The soil layer is also removed wider than the place where the foundation passes. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm, and drainage pipes are located around the perimeter. All moisture penetrating under the foundation is collected in pipes, from where it is discharged through separately laid pipelines to the drainage wells.

Tip: The depth of the reservoir drainage should exceed the depth of the clay soil. In this case, drainage will be most effective.

This type of drainage is quite laborious, therefore it is used less often, although it is useful for clay soils.

Maintenance of the drainage system consists only in cleaning it and pumping water from the collector well. If everything is done correctly, then no clay on the site can overshadow your mood and destroy the plants you grow.