Basement project and viewing hole. Construction of a garage with a basement and a viewing hole. Garage with viewing hole

Every motorist at least once in his life thought about how to build a basement in the garage with his own hands. This is a pretty good idea, because the owner of the building gets the opportunity to increase the free space, which can be used not only for storing tools or spare parts for the car. Many equip an underground room for a cellar, where preservation is preserved or a billiard table is installed here. If the owner of the property pursues a similar goal, it is imperative for him to make a dry basement. How such a technological process takes place will be described in detail in our article.

underground space requirements

Smart people consider arranging a cellar in a garage a profitable investment, because such a building is much more expensive than a regular building. In addition, an unnecessary basement can be rented out and receive additional profit from this. In order for the building to last as long as possible, certain rules must be observed:

• Lay high-quality and reliable waterproofing, which will prevent the penetration of surface water into the premises. Before digging a cellar, it is recommended to conduct geodetic studies and find out about the maximum and minimum levels ground water. The liquid reaches its critical point during winter thaws or during prolonged rainy weather. Dig out the basement better in autumn when groundwater is deep. The information obtained as a result of the research will help determine the depth of the foundation, will make it possible to select high-quality waterproofing.
• Waterproofing will not always be able to cope with the problem of moisture penetration into the room, therefore, for drainage in the garage, they provide drainage system.
• When building a cellar in a garage, ventilation is mandatory. This is due to the high humidity in the underground room. Exhaust ventilation allows you to pump clean air into the cellar and remove exhaust gases. If you do not make an extract on the surfaces of the building envelope, a fungus or mold will soon appear. Such negative impacts will sooner or later lead to spoilage of food products or stored items.
• If the basement under the garage will be used as a workshop or a place to relax with friends, the walls of this room must be insulated without fail. Moreover, heat-insulating materials must resist moisture well even in cases where the enclosing structures are covered with high-quality waterproofing.

Work performance technology

The main construction work should be preceded by a garage project. On the sketch of the building, overall dimensions are applied, as well as design features individual nodes. At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to determine the type of heat and waterproofing, the material for the walls, the number of floor slabs.

With a high level of groundwater (less than 3 meters from the surface of the earth), we build the floor, as well as the walls of the basement, from monolithic concrete slabs. Lightweight building envelopes are erected only on dry, non-rocky soils. The process of building a basement in a garage consists of several simple sequential steps:

1. We make markings for the future cellar according to a pre-developed project.
2. We tear out the pit by hand or with an excavator.
3. Level the floor surface.
4. We lay roofing material panels at the bottom of the pit, observing an overlap within 15 centimeters. We lay the waterproofing material on the walls by 20 centimeters.
5. We concrete the floor, reinforcing the structure with a metal mesh.
6. We carry out the installation of basement walls, using concrete mix or brick for this purpose. Hot bituminous mastic is applied to the surface from the outside of the building at the point of contact between the enclosing structure and the soil.
7. We lay factory monolithic slabs or arrange a plank floor.
8. We lay heat and waterproofing, bring the power supply, mount the ventilation system.

The nuances of the device floor

The basement device begins with the installation of the floor. To get a dry and warm floor covering during the excavation of the pit, the depth is increased by 30-40 centimeters from the design mark. At the bottom of the pit, a 15 cm layer of sand is poured. The bedding is compacted by spilling water, and then crushed stone is poured, the thickness of the pillow is about 15 centimeters. Similar materials will be used as drainage. The emerging groundwater will not linger near the waterproofing, the liquid will quickly leave through a layer of rubble and sand.

After the crushed stone is compacted onto a large pit, rolls of waterproofing materials are laid in several layers, the panels are glued together with hot bitumen. Next, pour the floor in the basement of the garage, using for this cement-sand mortar or special leveling mixtures with reinforcing fiber (screed thickness within 2-3 centimeters). When the base dries, it is impregnated with a waterproofing primer.

Many garage owners make clay floors in the cellar. The construction of the floor covering consists of two layers of clay, 25 and 40 centimeters each. Rolled waterproofing materials are laid in the middle between the layers. Plank flooring is used as a finishing flooring.

What are basement walls made of?

Production material load-bearing structures will depend on the physical and mechanical properties of the soil. For operation in dry soils, brick walls can be used. For all other types of soil, durable and reliable reinforced concrete is used. To prevent the destruction of bricks, it is necessary to finish the basement of the garage with plaster mortars.

Before the erection of concrete walls, a wooden formwork is made (the height of each section is in the range of 30-40 centimeters). Inside the building envelope, a reinforcement frame is installed. The sections are rearranged as the concrete hardens until the wall reaches the desired height.

Advice! Not everyone knows how to make a basement in the garage correctly. Deep penetration primer helps to strengthen waterproofing. such solutions are applied to the surface of brick or concrete walls.

Waterproofing device

The durability of the entire cellar will depend on properly installed waterproofing. We have already discussed the process of waterproofing the floor above, but there are rules for insulating the surface of the walls. Special attention it is necessary to draw on the streams of water on the building envelope. These problem areas are clogged with oily clay. Not everyone knows how to properly seal leaks, for this you need to expand the recess and lay clay there.

During the construction of the cellar in the garage, a small gap is left between the pit and the wall. Rolled waterproofing materials are glued to the outer walls, the panels are coated with hot bituminous mastic. The free space between the soil and the wall is clogged with clay. Ordinary soil can also be filled in between if the groundwater is below the level of the foundation.

How to make ventilation

A device is needed in the garage basement ventilation system. In order to provide the underground room with a sufficient amount of clean air and effectively remove exhaust gases, several small holes are made in the basement of the walls. Ventilation can be natural, when air currents move through the difference in pressure inside or outside the room, or forced. A fan is used to circulate air. Now that we know how to build a cellar in the garage, let's get acquainted with the nuances of mounting the hood:

1. We prepare two pipes.
2. We fix the first one near the ceiling, the upper edge of the pipe should rise 35-50 centimeters above the roof. To prevent the ingress of debris and insects, the upper opening is covered with a mesh or a special cap.
3. The second pipe for the influx of fresh air is fixed at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the floor. The upper edge of the pipe should rise above the soil surface by 30 centimeters. This hole is also covered with a mesh.

Making a cellar in a garage with your own hands is quite simple, it is much more difficult to maintain such a ventilation system. AT winter period she might not work. To prevent such unpleasant situations, it is necessary to insulate pipelines, as well as clean accumulated snow. The pipe inlet is made removable to facilitate maintenance.

How to insulate a basement

When making a cellar under the garage with your own hands, take care of the high-quality insulation of the underground room. Thermal insulation must be laid without fail, regardless of the purpose of using the basement. In the absence of insulation, it will be cold in this part of the building in winter, which will lead to icing of stored vegetables and preservation.

When insulating the cellar with your own hands, choose polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Such materials not only have a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, they are not afraid of moisture, so fungus or mold will never appear on the surface of such thermal insulation. For laying in the basement, foam sheets with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters are used.

Note! When gluing insulation on the inside of the room, in any case, condensation will appear. This is due to the significant temperature difference inside and outside the cellar.

To prevent condensation, insulate the basement only from the outside. If this is not possible, a layer of 1-2 centimeters is left between the thermal insulation and the wall. The free space between the materials is used to remove water vapor.

We have described how to build a basement in a garage. The main technological process may differ depending on the characteristics of the soil and the financial capabilities of the owner of the building.

This type of cellar does not take up much space on the site (and even saves it), you can go down into it even in winter when there are snowdrifts around (an ordinary cellar would still have to be dug out). Also, such a cellar does not need to be insulated.

When building this cellar, two main rules must be followed:

• Must be completely waterproof;
• Good ventilation.

It is better to carry out the installation of the basement at the same time as the construction of the garage itself. Since it will be more convenient to choose a bookmark option, install ventilation and waterproofing.

If at the time of installing the basement, the garage has been built for a long time, then it will be somewhat more difficult.

How to make a basement under the garage

Before building a garage, you must first of all study the soil, and its capabilities (more precisely, find out how deep the groundwater is) and whether it is possible to make a hole of about 300-350 cm.

If you are going to build a garage instead of a cellar, then it is better to use a strip foundation (in this case, part of the walls will replace the foundation itself).

In general, the basement pit itself is usually made with a depth of 150 to 300 centimeters.

If your area has a high level of groundwater, then the basement device must be made of cast-in-situ concrete, which has a high density and water resistance.

How to dig a hole in a basement garage

First of all, you need to deal with the pit (before that, it is better to decide how the pit will be used, as a cellar for conservation or as an inspection pit for a car).

The dimensions also depend on the purpose of the pit, if the pit under the basement is most often the same size as the garage itself, then the inspection pit should have clear dimensions.

For example, for a viewing hole, the length should be the length of the car itself + 100 cm, width - should accommodate the wheelbase of the car (although if you still don’t know which car you’ll buy) - then you can take the standard width - from 750 to 800 mm.

The depth of the pit is the growth of the owner of the garage + 100-150 mm. It is better to make a hole deeper than to stand bent over afterwards.

When we have already prepared a pit according to your size, you need to start concreting it.

But for starters, the bottom of the pit is well tamped (you can use a special machine) and a layer of gravel 100 mm thick is covered. Sand is poured on top of the gravel (50 mm layer).

If you have sufficiently wet soil, we still lay clay on top of the sand (it will be additional waterproofing).

A polyethylene film is laid over the clay (or sand).

Only after that you can start pouring concrete (and do not forget to reinforce it).

Foundation for a garage with a basement

At the stage of preparatory work, we calculate the parameters of the foundation, purchase the necessary materials (and possibly buy or rent equipment).

The height of the basement is usually made from 170 to 180 cm.

After completing all the calculations, you need to make markings for the foundation.

In fact, marking is needed for proper land work.

Using markup, you can detect some errors that were made in the calculations

Usually markup is done with the help of pegs, on which the rope is fixed.

How to make a basement with a basement: making formwork.

Now we turn to the formwork, for formwork they often take boards (thickness 2.5 cm). To reduce the absorbency of the boards themselves, they are planed from the side of the foundation and soaked a little in water.

After the boards are prepared, shields are made of them and installed in trenches (fixation occurs due to struts and slopes).

After that, you need to do reinforcement, take rods 8-12 mm thick, which are welded together. Rods that are installed vertically are best installed after 50 cm.

After the reinforcement cage is ready and installed inside the formwork, we pour the cement.

We take cement M400 and higher (cement, crushed stone, water 1: 4: 1) and pour it into the trench. After pouring the foundation (14-20 days), the formwork is removed.

Basement under the garage with your own hands

Garage very comfortable spot for storage of almost unnecessary things. There is practically no space for this in the apartment, so many people use the garage. And it is worth noting that the number of things that may someday come in handy goes beyond all limits. There are so many of them in the garage that even the car can hardly drive. There is a way out, along with a viewing hole, which is simply necessary in the garage, to build a basement. It's not hard to do this, but step-by-step instruction help you do it right.

Step #1. The study of geology

First of all, before building a basement, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the soil and the level of groundwater. This will help determine the feasibility of equipping the basement and the cost of these works. If the soil is rocky or the groundwater level is quite high, then the cost of its construction will increase exponentially. In these cases, you can not do without special equipment and the help of specialists.

When building a basement inside an existing garage, all the features of the geology are already known, they were thoroughly studied when building a house for a car. If construction is underway for the first time, then you need to pay attention to all the nuances.

Step #2. Determining the size of the future basement.

It should be noted here that if the garage is just being built, then it is quite advisable to make a foundation pit according to its size, then the basement walls will simultaneously serve as a foundation. If the garage is already standing and it does not provide for a basement, the dimensions of the basement will be a little more modest. From the walls of the building you will need to retreat approximately

The minimum height of the structure should correspond to the growth of the owner, plus a margin of 150 - 200 mm, so that a person can move freely around the basement.

Step #3. Sketches of the future basement

Before starting construction, you should sketch out a drawing of the future storage with actual dimensions. It's let you choose best way laying the foundation, think over the high-quality performance of waterproofing work and the arrangement of the ventilation system, make the layout of the room and calculate the actual amount building materials necessary for its construction.

Step number 4. Excavation

The advantage of building a basement in an open area is that the work can be automated as much as possible. Excavation work is carried out with an excavator. In the garage, work on the development of the pit will have to be done manually, followed by transportation of excess soil outside the garage.

If the underground water is above the level of the basement floor, you need to take care of lowering the height of the groundwater for the duration of the construction works, tightness of the basement and its thorough subsequent waterproofing.

Step number 5. Basement floor installation

The depth under the basement storage should be 300-350 mm deeper than the mark of the future floor. First you need to arrange the base of the floor. To do this, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with crushed stone of a fine fraction and carefully compact it. Next, pour the so-called pillow with hot bitumen.

After it hardens, a reinforcing mesh is made and poured heavy concrete. The floor thickness must be at least 200 mm.

Step number 6. Walling

The material for the walls in the basement depends on the characteristics of the soil. If the basement is being built in dry soils, then solid red brick is perfect for the walls. You can use cinder blocks, but to exclude their interaction with moisture, which causes detrimental effects, it is better to cover the walls with waterproofing materials from the outside.

In wet ground, reinforced concrete is used. Foundation blocks will serve as an ideal material.

However, their use is possible only if there is a free entrance and a lifting mechanism, otherwise you can do monolithic walls by pouring concrete into the prepared formwork.

It is made from wood. The boards are fastened with nails, see photo. Next, a reinforcement structure is installed. It should be noted that the height of each layer of poured concrete should be no more than 400 mm.

After pouring the first layer, formwork is installed for the next one of the same dimensions.

Step number 7. Ceiling device

When covering the basement, you need to remember that its ceiling serves as the floor of the garage, so it must be strong and reliable, able to withstand the weight of the car. In a garage under construction, the basement can be covered with ready-made factory slabs; in an existing one, it is advisable to fill in a monolithic ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to install the formwork, manufacture and assemble reinforced mesh and pour heavy concrete. The thickness of the slab must be at least 200 mm.

Step number 8. Waterproofing works

Basement waterproofing is a fairly responsible undertaking. If you neglect these works, then the result will be a room unsuitable for storing anything. If the basement is located in dry and dense soils, then a complex waterproofing system is not needed.

It is enough to apply a layer of hot bituminous mastic on the walls and floor.

A waterproofing system in wet soils requires a more serious approach. The most reliable is external waterproofing. You can arrange it by using roll materials or coating polymer mastics, liquid rubber and liquid glass.

The outer surface of the walls is plastered to level the surface with a waterproofing compound, preferably with reinforcement. As plaster composition it is better to use solutions of well-known companies Ceresit, IVSIL, Xypex Chemical Corporation, BASF, Saint-Gobain WEBER-VETONIT, Bastion, Irmast-Holding, Penetron-Russia.

After that, a layer of waterproofing is applied (roofing material, polymer membranes, bitumen-containing mastics or other coating agents intended for waterproofing foundations).

In the future, the basement wall is plastered again.

The bottom of the trench is covered with sand and compacted, then it is necessary to fix the geotextile sheet, blocking the bottom of the trench and its back wall. After that, crushed stone of a large fraction must be filled in and a PVC pipe is installed, which acts as a drainage. Ground water is discharged into a specially prepared sewer well.

A layer of crushed stone 100-150 mm is laid on top of the pipe and covered with a geotextile sheet.

Near concrete wall you need to lay a layer of clay, it will serve as a hydraulic lock, and fill the trench with sand and tamp it so that the soil does not shrink.

If for some reason external waterproofing cannot be fulfilled, it is produced from within.

Step #9 Ventilation

An equally important event is the air exchange device in the basement. You can go the easy way and organize natural ventilation in the basement. It is not difficult to do this, but natural air exchange does not give the desired effect, although it has the right to life.

More reliable is the forced ventilation option. This type of air exchange can be performed by simply adding an electric fan to the natural ventilation exhaust duct. This will maintain normal temperature and humidity in the basement, regardless of the season or adverse weather.

Installation of ventilation ducts is carried out as follows:

The supply channel is located at a height of 150-200 mm from the floor level, its opposite end is brought out into the street, to a height of 200-300 mm. The exhaust duct must be placed as close as possible to the ceiling and brought out half a meter above the level of the garage roof.

As mentioned above, an electric fan is installed in the exhaust duct. To avoid condensation due to differential temperature conditions the outer part of the ventilation ducts must be insulated.

To prevent precipitation from entering the duct, it is recommended to install a fungus on its head,

and to protect against rodents, safety metal nets.

Step number 10. Ladder device

When building a basement, along with a garage, you can use a ready-made reinforced concrete flight of stairs, if everything takes place in an existing garage, then it is better to make it from improvised materials with your own hands.

It could be metal

or a tree. However, when manufacturing, one should not forget about its reliability, safety and convenience.

Step number 11. Lighting

The basement lighting system is not difficult. It is necessary to take into account two nuances.

The switch must be located in the garage,

and the luminaire must be waterproof.

Step number 12. Finishing work

The walls of the basement must be plastered with a water-repellent cement mixture such as Ceresit, Sm-11, Osovit Startwell, having previously fixed a thin metal mesh with dowels. After the surface dries, you can whitewash it with lime, which has protective and disinfecting properties, or paint with acrylic and silicate paints containing antiseptic additives, having previously treated the surface with a deep penetration primer.

Basement project under the garage photo and video

Do-it-yourself dry basement, cellar and pit in the garage on video

The basement in the garage has a number of advantages. This is an additional place to store the necessary things, homemade products, etc. If you try and ensure the right microclimate, you can even store vegetables and fruits here. Today it is quite a popular addition to the garage. It is best, of course, to think over the cellar and indicate it in the drawings at the construction stage of the garage. Let's look at this question of how to dig and build a basement in more detail.

Advantages of placing a basement in a garage

Option for a finished basement under the garage

The financial side of building a garage is a very important part. Naturally, during its construction with a cellar, cash costs increase significantly. Indeed, in order to equip the latter, additional costs for building materials are required. Yes, it takes a lot more time to build. But the sheepskin is worth the candle. In building a garage with a cellar, there are a number of advantages that more than cover the disadvantages.

1. The cellar in the garage is an additional place where you can store winter preparations. Many are engaged in rolling up pickles, jams, compotes. Some have their own dacha and garden, and some buy ingredients from the market. The basement is the best and most convenient place for their preservation, because there you can create certain temperature conditions for this.
2. Own workshop - the place of almost every motorist. The basement might be a great place for her equipment. Indeed, directly in the garage itself there is not always a lot of space for full-fledged repair work. Lack of space causes a lot of inconvenience. But in the basement there is enough space to place all the tools and equip your workplace.
3. In the basement of the garage, you can leave things that you do not always use, but from time to time. For example, seasonal items, such as a children's sled that you only use in the winter, or a bicycle that you only need in the summer. In order not to litter the balcony or pantry, you can leave it all in the basement.
4. If you are going to sell the garage, then the presence of a basement in it will significantly increase its value. The same goes for renting it out.

How to build a capital cellar - instructions

The basement is also a kind of building that requires advance planning. The diagram must clearly indicate the dimensions of each element: height, thickness, width of the floor, ceiling, walls, etc. You need to clearly calculate how much thermal insulation you need, how many bricks, concrete, materials for interior cladding, etc.

Be sure to check before starting construction work whether it is possible to build a basement in your chosen location. And suddenly it is here that underground communications (gas or water supply) pass.

If you are building a cellar at the stage of building a garage, then it would be preferable to choose a strip base for the structure. Thus, the walls of the base will become parts of the walls of the cellar, and the basement will play the role of the ceiling of the underground room.

In the case of a close location of groundwater to the surface, give preference to monolithic concrete slabs for the construction of a garage basement. If you are lucky and your soil is dry and not heaving, then you can use lightweight materials for building walls. For example, asbestos cement sheets slate for roofing, which must be laid out in several layers (usually from two to four) and mounted on a wooden crate. Between themselves, the sheets are glued using bituminous mastic or a mixture of casein glue and cement no worse than M400.

Top view of the garage cellar

1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future basement. Step back from the walls of the garage inward by 300 millimeters so that the garage does not sit in the basement.
2. Dig a hole of the right size (250-350 centimeters).
3. The walls and bottom of the pit must be made as even as possible.
4. Cover the bottom with sheets of roofing material with an overlap of 150 millimeters on top of each other and crawling onto the walls of the pit by 200 millimeters. To strengthen the waterproofing, you can lay the roofing material in two layers. In this case, the joints of the lower layer should not overlap with the joints of the upper layer.
5. The next stage is a concrete screed with reinforcement.
6. Then the basement walls are erected. To do this, you can use bricks, asbestos sheets, concrete or another material that suits you. Leave a small gap between the ground and the outer part of the wall, where the outer waterproofing will be laid. To do this, use bituminous or other special mastic. It is applied with a roller or spatula, put on a long handle. If the gap is large enough, then roll insulation can be additionally glued to the mastic.
7. Naturally, it is impossible to use a ready-made concrete slab for flooring, because the height and width of the garage is not enough to install it (of course, if it is a regular garage for one car). Therefore, you can make an overlap from the boards. They are laid close horizontally and a hole is left for the hatch. Lay waterproofing material on the boards, make a frame of reinforcement and formwork, fill everything with cement mortar with a layer of 300-400 millimeters. A smaller thickness of concrete may not be able to cope with the weight of the car.

Building the floor

Basement floor waterproofing under garage

In order for the floor of the garage cellar to be dry and as warm as possible, it is important to think carefully about its arrangement at the planning stage.

When you dig a pit, you need to increase its depth by 300-400 millimeters in order to build a drainage cushion. The bottom of the pit is well leveled and compacted. A layer of sand of 150 millimeters is poured on top. The sand must be moistened with water and compacted well. Then a layer of gravel of 150 millimeters is poured. This is done so that groundwater cannot get too close to the waterproofing material and spoil it. In addition, sedimentary water will be able to quickly leave through a layer of gravel and sand. Thus, the liquid will not linger in the basement.

After the crushed stone layer is laid and rammed, it is necessary to lay the rolled waterproofing material in several layers. Alternatively, liquid bitumen can be used.

Then a concrete screed with reinforcement is constructed, the thickness of which should be 200-300 millimeters. After its final hardening, it is advised to treat the concrete with a deep penetration waterproofing primer.

This type of flooring is the best.

You can make a clay floor, if the groundwater level allows it. To do this, clay is laid in two layers, and a layer of roofing is placed between them. The first layer of clay should be 250 millimeters, and the second 400-600 millimeters. On the clay, you can lay the flooring of the boards.

Building basement walls

Building brick walls

Depending on the physical characteristics of the soil at the construction site, it is necessary to choose the best material for the construction of walls. If the soil is dry and not heaving, then a full-bodied red brick can be used. For other soils, the use of reliable and strong reinforced concrete is more suitable. Brick walls after erection are covered with plaster from a concrete mixture.

If the walls are made of concrete, then first of all there is the construction of sectional plank formwork. One section in height should be from 350 to 400 millimeters. Reinforcing bars are installed in the formwork and concrete is poured there with a layer of 300 millimeters. After it dries, the formwork section is set higher and the same is done. So, section by section, all the walls of the room are lined up. Fasten the extended sections with each other using rails and nails.

To enhance the waterproofing properties, treat the walls with a special hydrophobic primer with deep penetration.

Waterproofing works - how to get rid of water

Wall waterproofing scheme

Many of its factors depend on the correct construction of the garage basement, such as its durability, food storage conditions and others.

Very important! The issue of waterproofing the basement of the garage must be approached with great responsibility. The cellar is a room located underground. That is why very high demands are placed on its protection.

1. At the construction stage, when a foundation pit is dug under the cellar of the garage, as soon as groundwater is discovered, they must be repaired with greasy clay 500 millimeters deep.
2. The same clay closes up the empty space that forms between the basement wall and the soil. The thickness of this layer should be at least 150 millimeters. Brick cladding must be laid out flush with the floor beams. After that, the upper part of the cellar must be covered with a reinforced concrete floor with a hatch.
3. If the soil at the basement construction site is low-moisture and inactive, i.e., the groundwater is deep enough, then for external waterproofing work it is sufficient to treat the walls with hot bitumen. Otherwise, if the soil is wet, then it is necessary to do waterproofing using roofing material, which is based on bituminous mastic.
4. If the groundwater level is above the cellar floor, then it is necessary to make underground waterproofing. For this, multi-layer carpets made of roofing material are used. In addition, it is best in this case to make the base of the floor using greasy clay or gravel soaked in bitumen.
5. To prevent dampness and mold from appearing in the cellar of the garage, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation in the room. To make it, you need to build special holes in the basement walls. To maintain an average temperature in the room, you can lay a film, clay, clay straw or roofing felt over the entire floor area. The layer thickness should be 200 millimeters. A layer of earth of 300 millimeters must be poured on it.

Before placing vegetables, seamings and other products in the cellar, it is necessary to get rid of moisture and dry the room. To do this, cover the walls with lime and burn 12 tablets of dry fuel indoors. Such actions, in addition to drying the basement, relieve and prevent the appearance of putrefactive bacteria.

We make ventilation (hood) - table

Natural ventilation scheme

A good ventilation system (hood), as mentioned earlier, is the key to high-quality storage of vegetables, fruits and other food products in the garage cellar. Ventilation planning takes place at the very beginning of the construction work on the construction of the garage. If this is not done, then the amount of air may not be enough.

Forced ventilation system

How to properly insulate a basement from the inside

Wall insulation scheme

This process is also very important in the construction of the basement.

If the basement is not thermally insulated or the process is approached in bad faith, then the cellar will not function properly and all the work done will go down the drain.

1. Expanded polystyrene can be used as a heat-insulating material. It does not rot, waterproof and durable. Attach it to the outside of the basement when you insulate the garage foundation.
2. The thickness of expanded polystyrene should be 50 millimeters and grade PSB-S-25. Such thermal insulation material perfectly maintains a stable basement temperature. Internal thermal insulation leads to condensation at the joints.
3. The thermal insulation of the cellar ceiling is also very milestone construction of this building. Otherwise, warm air will cool sharply from the cold surface of the ceiling, which will cause condensation to form.
4. If the floor of the garage is made of reinforced concrete slab, which cannot be heated, the installation of a false ceiling in the basement, which is filled with heat-insulating material, saves.

Ceiling and roof insulation

To insulate the ceiling and basement cover, you must adhere to the following scheme:

basement ceiling insulation scheme

1. Fix pipes with a diameter of 2.5 centimeters under the ceiling of the garage cellar. They should be located 150 millimeters from the ceiling surface and installed at a distance of 600 millimeters from each other. You can fix them both to the ceiling and to the walls from inside the basement.
2. To pipes with an angle of 90o, it is necessary to install reinforcement rods. Their diameter should be no more than 0.1 centimeter and there should be a distance of 300 millimeters between them. Then you need to form a single soft metal mesh.
3. Paint everything with waterproof paint.
4. In the empty space between the ceiling and pipes, lay plastic bags filled with straw and moss. The ends of the bags are sealed and stacked tightly to each other so that there is not a single gap.
5. On the last step it is necessary to make drains for condensate using umbrellas made of galvanized iron, polyethylene or moisture-resistant plywood. The condensate must drain into a previously prepared container.

Responsibly approach the arrangement of the basement so that its functionality is not impaired, and you can leave food in it with peace of mind. Even minimal errors in work can ruin all the work done.

How to dig a cellar in an already finished garage?

1. Mark the perimeter of the future garage cellar.
2. Dismantle the flooring and dig a pit of the desired size.
3. The walls and floor are made according to the principle described above.
4. Then comes the manufacture of supports for the ceiling.
5. Planked and reinforcing frame formwork is being constructed.
6. The floor of the garage is again poured with concrete.
7. Redo the manhole, install a hatch and a ladder.

We do finishing and lighting

To make it comfortable in the basement of the garage, it needs to be finished with something and lighting should be done. The latter will not cause any particular difficulties with the condition that there is lighting and electrical wiring directly in the garage room itself. You will just need to create the wiring from the electrical panel, which is located in the garage. The formation of lighting and the placement of sockets and switches is a matter of technology.

At the final stage, it is necessary to make the lining of the bare concrete walls of the basement, which do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

The easiest way to finish is plastering. Thus, the design will look monolithic. To do this, attach a metal mesh to the walls without blocking the ventilation holes. If you plan to further finish the walls with ceramic tiles, then the layer of plaster should only cover the network minimally so that there is room for tile adhesive. The material is applied with a trowel and smoothed out using a trowel.

Applying plaster to mesh

You can, of course, resort to more complex and expensive cladding options, for example, tiles. But practice shows that garage cellars most often get by with simple plastering.

This is followed by the arrangement of various shelves and racks in order to conveniently store homemade blanks or tools. Giving a finished appearance to the basement is formed by all the little things in the aggregate. At this stage, you are already free to manage your own needs. Each owner equips the basement for himself individually.

Video: basement arrangement

Video: do-it-yourself cellar under the garage

Now you can independently build a basement in your garage and equip there with an additional roomy enough place for anything. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the process of work. But each stage is very important and should be treated very seriously and responsibly. Good luck!

Hello. My name is Olga. I am 27 years old. By education - a journalist. Rate this article:

For many urban dwellers, the basement in the garage is the only place where they can store canned food and other supplies for the winter. Subject to building regulations, safety precautions and the main points of the instructions, the cellar is built by hand in a short time.

Do you need a cellar in the garage

Many owners of their own garage are wondering if it is worth equipping a basement under it. They believe that this involves significant difficulties, requires overhaul building or construction of a new structure.

In a modern metropolis, a garage is a place that can be equipped to store canned food and other food supplies. Despite the presence of a refrigerator in most apartments, it is in the cellar that the safety of potatoes and pickles is ensured.

The main advantage of the cellar, equipped under the garage, is to maintain the optimum temperature even in severe frost. If the pit is deepened by 2-3 meters, then the cellar will not freeze through, regardless of the weather.

Other pluses include:

1. Ability to store supplies for the winter. Not everyone has the opportunity to equip a basement in a house or utility room. However, everyone can make a cellar for storing food in the garage.
2. Ease of construction. You do not need specific building knowledge and skills, professional tools and equipment. It is enough to comply with the basic requirements of technology.
3. If you have a detached garage, you can equip the basement of any desired size. It is enough to be guided by a simple principle: the larger the family, the larger the cellar. For four people 8 square meters will be enough.

The main disadvantages of the cellar located in the garage are two: exhaust gases from the car penetrate inside, and the basement dampness comes out. Both of these problems are solvable.

Training

When arranging a basement in a garage, you can choose from several basic options. The difference between them is the depth of penetration.

1. Semi-deep cellar. The building can be structurally combined with a conventional viewing hole. Another variant of the ground structure is the use of a special container made of plastic. It is dug into the ground and can be used for temporary storage of products.
2. Semi-recessed pit. It has its own walls, lined with cinder block or brick. Depth - up to a meter. When building, you need to take into account some of the nuances. So, with a high occurrence of groundwater, moisture-bearing veins are first plugged with several layers of clay, then the walls and floor of the basement are waterproofed.
3. Buried cellar. This is the most common way to arrange a basement in a garage. Depth - up to three meters.

When choosing the depth of the basement, groundwater flow must be taken into account. The foundation of the basement is laid at a distance of at least half a meter from the source of high humidity.

Dimensions are approx. If necessary, the hood is equipped with a tap to remove condensate

Preliminary work

A recessed cellar is being built in capital garages. Before implementing such a project, some preliminary work needs to be done. Their essence is as follows:

• Before building a basement, you need to make sure that it is technically possible to implement such a project. The soil of any large city is literally crammed with numerous communications, and it is rarely possible to dig to the desired depth the first time. To minimize costs and determine the possibility of building a cellar, you can invite a specialist or use the project documentation developed during the construction of a garage building.
• The foundation must be protected from groundwater erosion. If possible, this should be provided for during the construction of the garage by equipping a circular drainage system. Otherwise, carefully waterproof the basement.

Material selection

In the process of building a cellar, you will need a set of tools and building materials.

When building walls, you can use:

• Concrete plates.
• Cinder block and brick.
• Natural stone.

Concrete slabs can only be used if you are building a garage from scratch and equipping the cellar before the walls and ceilings are erected. In addition, you will need a team of professional installers who have a powerful lifting tool, for example, a truck crane.

To pour the base with your own hands, you can use ready-made concrete M-100 or a solution made by yourself. This will require a standard set of components:

• Gravel.
• Rubble.
• Sand.
• Cement M-400.

The resulting solution is used both for preparing the screed and for finishing walls during plastering.

For formwork, you will need a cutting board. The quantity is determined individually and depends on the size of the basement. For waterproofing the premises, you can use the usual roofing material.

Tools

In itself, building a cellar is not a difficult task. However, certain knowledge and skills are required.

At self erection a small basement in the garage does not need complex professional equipment. It is enough to get a standard set of tools. Some of them are interchangeable.

• Jackhammer.
• Sledgehammer.
• Spatula, master.
• Hacksaw.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• Screwdriver or screwdriver set.
• Pliers.
• Shovel.
• Measuring tools: building level, plumb line, tape measure, metal ruler.

Instructions for making a basement with your own hands

Ideally, the cellar should be planned at the construction stage of the garage. This will make some work easier. If the construction of the basement is carried out in an already made garage, first of all it is necessary to dismantle the concrete floor. The screed is removed over the entire area of ​​the future cellar. The work is carried out either with a pneumatic jackhammer, or in the old fashioned way, with a chisel and a sledgehammer.

Pit preparation

The initial stage of the construction of the garage basement is the preparation of the foundation pit. For a fully buried cellar, its depth is about three meters, other dimensions are selected individually, in accordance with the planned dimensions. The preparation of the base is as follows:

1. The pit is digging.
2. The walls and floor of the pit are carefully leveled and compacted. This is necessary so that in the future the cellar has even surfaces.
3. Alternating layers of crushed stone and gravel fall asleep at the bottom. After each backfill, the surface is leveled and compacted.
4. The prepared coating is poured with a thin layer of concrete.

The thickness of the resulting base should be 8–9 centimeters or more.

If the basement is being built finished premises, you will have to dig it with your own hands

After the concrete has hardened, the initial waterproofing work is carried out. Two layers of roofing material are laid, glued together with molten resin. The edges of the waterproofing sheets should extend beyond the boundaries of the cellar by about 10-15 centimeters. After that, the formwork is mounted and the solution is poured.

How to build a ladder

The staircase is the most important structural element connecting the basement with the main building.

The structure is of two types:

1. Standard (attached), made of metal or wood.
2. Marching. It is installed ready-made, more often during the construction of the cellar. In some cases, installation in an existing room is possible.

The ladder can be made from the following materials:

• Wood. The cellar is a cold and often damp room, as a result of which the tree needs additional treatment with antiseptics, fire retardants or complex compounds. This will protect the material from bacteria, insects, lichens.
• Metal. If a used one is used, the first step is to carry out the treatment with abrasive material. This will save the future stairs from corrosion. After that, the metal is rubbed detergent and rinses off. After installation, the metal steps must be covered with several layers of oil paint or enamel.
• Concrete. This material has increased strength characteristics, however, it also requires additional protection. Steps are covered with several layers of paint or tiled with floor tiles.

Crossbars are welded to the two main posts

When building stairs to the basement of the garage yourself, you must be guided by the following indicators:

1. The permissible width of the structure is in the range of 70–90 centimeters.
2. The clearance of the stairs in the erected basement is calculated from the bottom step to the floor beam. When building a new cellar, this parameter should be at least 1.9 meters. In this case, the risk of hitting the floor beam is minimized.
3. Slope - from 22 to 75 degrees. An indicator of 45–75 degrees is typical for ladders.
4. The width of the step is from 25 to 32 centimeters. If the tread is wider, it will create inconvenience when lifting. If already, it will make the descent more dangerous.
5. Step height - from 12 to 22 centimeters.

To make a wooden two-meter staircase 80 centimeters wide, the steps of which are 22 cm high, you will need two boards 20x15x200 cm, six boards 6x20x80, 12 small bars 5x5x15 and 60 nails or wood screws. This ladder is installed with a slope of 30 degrees, which is taken into account during the assembly phase.

The production of the structure takes place in several stages:

1. First of all, bars are attached to the supports, on which steps will be installed. From the top of the support, you need to measure 26 centimeters and fix the bar at an angle of 60 degrees. Each beam is attached to two nails or self-tapping screws.
2. In a similar way, observing a step of 26 centimeters, other support bars are installed
3. Steps are attached to the bars with nails or self-tapping screws.

   Steps are attached to the bars with self-tapping screws.

4. When installing the structure at the place of use with a slope of 30 degrees, the steps will take a strictly horizontal position.

Walling

The walls in the cellar of the garage are built exclusively from solid materials. The use of light parts (chipboard, plywood, etc.) is not allowed.

The easiest way to lay out the walls of brick. In the process of work, it is enough to ensure that the masonry is even and vertical.

Another convenient way- build monolithic concrete walls. To do this, you will need to perform a number of actions:

1. For every wall knock down strong wooden shields that will serve as formwork.
2. Metal poles are hammered along the perimeter of the cellar.
3. Formwork is attached to the racks.
4. Concrete is being poured.

   The walls are laid out of brick, reinforced concrete, foam blocks

In any case, it is very important to control the verticality of the walls. All seams are rubbed mortar, and at the end of the masonry they are painted with lime.

How to make a floor?

For most basements, a reinforced concrete floor is ideal. It is done in stages:

1. The surface is levelled. In the process of work, the building level is used.
2. 10–15 centimeters of crushed stone are poured, evenly distributed.
3. After that, a small (about 5 cm) layer of sand is poured, carefully leveled and compacted.
4. Equipped floor. To do this, you can use a reinforced concrete slab or lay a strong metal mesh and perform a screed.
5. If the second method (screed) is chosen: reinforcing bars. Step - one meter. A metal mesh is laid on the floor, after which 3-5 centimeters of cement are poured.

The surface is leveled and leveled

Simultaneously with the arrangement of the finished floor, a number of thermal insulation works can be performed. This is discussed below.

Cellar ventilation equipment

A high-quality exhaust system will help eliminate dampness and odors (for example, exhausts) from the basement. Ultimately, this will increase the shelf life of supplies.

There are two types of ventilation systems designed for the cellar:

1. Natural. An ideal way if there is a possibility of providing fresh air.
2. Forced. The main difference from the previous version is the presence of a fan.

The exhaust pipe rises 0.3-0.5 meters above the roof of the building

Arrangement of a natural ventilation system

Natural ventilation of the basement does not require significant costs and is easily equipped with your own hands:

1. An exhaust pipe is installed under the ceiling. Its output end is displayed half a meter above the garage roof. The heated air passes through this pipe.
2. A little above the floor, at a height of 7–10 centimeters, a supply pipe is mounted and brought out of the garage. According to her Fresh air will enter the cellar.
3. The ends of both tubes are closed with special nets that protect against pests and insects. Small covers are installed on top.

AT winter time natural ventilation may not work due to blockage of both openings with frost. To prevent this from happening, they are insulated and from time to time cleared of snow. You can make the outlet parts of the ducts removable, this will facilitate the work.

Forced exhaust equipment

The main difference between a forced ventilation system and a natural one is in an improved hood. An electric fan is built into its cavity, generating a vortex and expelling exhaust air from the garage.

As the forced exhaust expels the old air, fresh air enters the basement through the top vent pipe.

Unlike natural, there is a fan

As an option - it is possible to equip a fully mechanized ventilation system for the basement. To do this, you will need to install a monoblock controlled by a specialized software. The price of the equipment is about 50 thousand rubles.

Cellar insulation

In the absence of high-quality insulation of the basement, cold air will pass into the garage. In addition, thermal insulation increases the degree of protection of the cellar from moisture. One of the simplest and inexpensive ways insulation consists in lining the walls from the inside with foam.

The work consists of thermal insulation of walls, floor and ceiling.

How to insulate a basement ceiling?

You can insulate with foam or other suitable material

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is carried out as follows:

1. All possible gaps, small cracks, etc. are eliminated.
2. A layer of vapor barrier material is laid. In this capacity, penofol can act, which also performs heat-insulating functions.
3. Hangers are mounted for mounting the crate. The distance between the elements is equal to the width of the heat-insulating plates.
4. Lathing profiles are attached to the hangers. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
5. Thermal insulation material, such as polystyrene, is laid between the profiles. The joints are insulated with mounting foam.
6. At a distance of 4–5 centimeters from the thermal insulation, it is recommended to lay an additional vapor barrier layer. This will ensure micro-ventilation of the layers.

Floor insulation

Theoretically, a floor heating system can be installed in the basement. In practice, few people will mount it in the utility room. Therefore, you can perform the following procedure:

1. The surface of the subfloor is leveled at the building level.
2. A layer of waterproofing material is laid.
3. Insulation is mounted, for example, foam. Thickness - 5-6 centimeters.
4. Penofol is laid on top.

Insulation is laid on a layer of waterproofing

A reinforced screed and a finished floor can be laid on the thermal insulation.

Wall insulation

The cold penetrates the basement through the walls. High-quality thermal insulation will protect the room from the effects of the surrounding soil.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. A layer of waterproofing is laid. It prevents moisture from entering the basement and on the insulation. If necessary, before laying the heat insulator, the surface is leveled.
2. Styrofoam is laid on top of the waterproofing. For fastening on the surface, any adhesive composition is used.
3. After finishing the wall with foam, it should be covered with a thin cement screed. For additional reinforcement, reinforcement can be used.
4. Since the basement is a room with initially high humidity, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation.

All joints are carefully sealed

wall decoration

After carrying out work on hydro- and thermal insulation, the walls are tiled or similar finishing material. Surfaces can also be painted, whitewashed or covered with plaster.

Consider wall decoration using the example of plastering. The main task of the procedure is to bring the basement walls into an optimal sanitary and hygienic condition. The process takes place in several stages:

1. A metal mesh is attached to the wall. It must be remembered that in rooms with high humidity, the plaster will not stick exclusively to the surface of the blocks. To attach the reinforcing mesh to the wall, dowels of the "parachute" type are used. The ventilation holes are not closed.
2. The plaster solution is applied to the surface with a trowel, after which it is smoothed out with a trowel. If installation is planned ceramic plates, the solution is applied in a thin layer, minimally hiding the mesh and leaving room for glue.

Hatch and cover

The material that will be used to make the ceiling depends on the size of the cellar. If the dimensions do not exceed the standard viewing hole, the top is made from a magpie board. For a large cellar, you need a powerful and reliable ceiling that can withstand the weight of a car. The best option in this case, a concrete slab and a reinforcing frame.

Laying a standard concrete slab is possible if the cellar is done before the garage is built. If the construction is carried out in a finished building, you must do the following:

1. Bearing beams are laid. In this capacity, old railway rails are often used, which can be purchased at any scrap metal collection point.
2. Reinforcement and load-bearing formwork are laid between the beams.
3. Concrete is being poured.

Everything is leveled and set to the building level

The resulting structure will resemble a homemade reinforced concrete slab. When laying reinforcements and beams, leave space for the cover.

The hatch can be made independently from sheet steel or purchased a finished product. To do all the work with your own hands, you will need a set of materials and tools:

• 5mm sheet steel. Thinner material deforms over time.
• Bulgarian
• Welding machine
• metal corners
• Insulation, for example, foam or foam
• screwdriver
• tin
• loops
• Roulette.
• Sealing rubber.

The process of making a hatch with your own hands takes place in stages.

1. A steel plate is cut to size of the hole.
2. A metal corner is welded along the perimeter of the plate. For optimal sliding in the future, a small gap remains between the edge of the sheet and the shelf of the corner.
3. Insulation is placed on the inside of the lid. Styrofoam sheets should fit very tightly to the welded metal corners. Possible gaps are foamed.
4. A sheet of tin is attached over the insulation, the corners are bent. It will play a decorative role, because this stage is not mandatory.
5. Hinges are welded, if necessary, a hatch handle is attached.
6. The finished structure is hung on hinges.

In the future, the basement cover can be decorated under the floor covering, in harmony with the overall interior. The hatch in the garage can be painted with any suitable composition.

Getting rid of mold and water in the basement

One of the main cellar problems is mold. It appears due to poor-quality waterproofing and ventilation, leading to high humidity. In addition, among the reasons for the appearance of mold, long-term storage of rotten supplies and the use of infected wood for the manufacture of shelves are noted.

Mold and fungus are harmful to health and reduce the shelf life of food

Before carrying out the main work, the room must be disinfected. This is done in the following way:

1. The cellar is freed from foreign objects - racks, shelves, cans, etc.
2. Walls are cleaned with a hard metal brush. First of all - places of accumulation of mold.
3. The racks are dried outside and treated with disinfectants.
4. If the floor in the basement is earthen, the top layer is removed before disinfection procedures.
5. The best remedy for getting rid of mold is a sulfur checker. Vapors of sulfur dioxide can eliminate the fungus in any place. All ventilation and other openings are blocked, after which a piece of sulfur is set on fire. Then you need to quickly leave the room, tightly closing the hatch. After 10–12 hours, the cellar is ventilated, all surfaces are treated with slaked lime.

   Processing occurs after the cellar dries out

6. As an analogue of sulfur checkers, you can use next solution: 1 kg of slaked lime and 100 g of vitriol are diluted in two buckets of water. The resulting solution is used in the treatment of walls using a sprayer.
7. Racks and shelves taken out into the street are processed with a solution of deactin.
8. After about a day, after thoroughly airing the room and checking all surfaces, the cellar can be used.

When working with chemicals, a protective uniform is required: mask, suit, gloves

Mold Prevention

To prevent mold from appearing, first of all, it is necessary to ensure high-quality waterproofing. Alternatively, lay an additional insulating layer.

In addition, it is necessary to carry out a number of preventive measures annually:

1. Thorough cleaning and inspection of the cellar.
2. Drying out the room. Depending on its condition, the drying process can last from two days to several weeks.
3. Washing and drying racks. After that, they need to be treated with an antifungal compound.
4. Treatment with antifungal and antibacterial preparations of a dry cellar. After that, it is re-dried for 2-3 days.
5. If there is an earthen floor, it is covered with a solution of copper sulfate. After that, you need to let the mixture soak in, and pour lime and sand into the place where vegetables are stored.
6. Upon completion of all necessary procedures, racks are brought in. The cellar can be used for its intended purpose.

Video: How to make a dry basement in the garage with your own hands

Self-construction of a garage cellar requires the appropriate knowledge and skills. If you have building experience, you can easily make a basement with your own hands, and it will serve you for many years.

My name is Maxim, 33 years old. Higher education. I have extensive experience in construction and renovation. I hope my articles will help readers save on calling specialists. Rate this article:

A good garage should only be built on a good foundation, the design of which should be selected taking into account the specific conditions and hydrogeology of the construction site. The success of the efforts made to build the garage as a whole will depend on how correctly the foundation work is done.

How to build a foundation for a garage

The supporting base for any building is designed to absorb all loads from the upper structure and compensate for additional loads from seismic and other natural phenomena. In order for the garage to be operated without any problems in the future, it is necessary to carry out work in accordance with the requirements technological process and use only high quality materials.

It is better to build a capital brick garage on a strip foundation

Choosing the type of foundation

To determine the type of foundation, you need to take into account all the circumstances of the real conditions of construction:

1. Soil characteristics and depth of subsoil waters. These indicators are determined by exploratory drilling and laboratory research site samples. The costs incurred for this (inviting a specialist and the whole range of work will cost 6-10 thousand rubles) will more than pay off with the duration of the garage operation. Features of seasonal fluctuations in groundwater can be clarified by inspecting nearby water intake devices - wells or wells. The frequency of level changes is found out by interviewing local residents.
2. The proposed design of the garage - with or without a viewing hole and a basement.
3. Selected building materials.

The influence of soils on the choice of foundation type

Weak soils include fine dusty soils, sandy loams and loams, sands. They are characterized by the ability to move under external influence. Such bases need to be compacted. To do this, they dig a trench under the foundation and tamp its bottom with a vibrating plate. It should be borne in mind that with good compaction, soil subsidence is up to half a meter. At the same time, the base does not lose water permeability, so any type of foundation can be built on it.

Sandy loam refers to weak soils that must be compacted before building a foundation.

Medium sandy soil with the inclusion of gravel endures any load without displacement, there is no need to compact it. On such natural substrates, foundations of any type can be installed.

On sandy soil, you can build any foundations with a slight depth

The most reliable soils for the supporting foundation of any structure are rocky and rocky formations. They are not subject to swelling during freezing and erosion by groundwater.

Rocky soils allow the construction of shallow foundations

The most unfavorable for any foundations are clay soils. Such soils do not pass water well. They form water layers and small lenses. When frozen, water expands and exerts significant pressure on the surrounding space. This phenomenon is called swelling, it can destroy even the most durable concrete structures.

Clay soils have increased heaving, because they do not pass water well.

To limit the pressure of heaving soil on the foundation, its foundation must be deepened below the level of soil freezing. In this case, only the lateral impact will remain with the expansion of groundwater. Most reliable way getting rid of heaving soils - dehydration. For this, drainage is used - ring or wall. The method is laborious and costly, but often inevitable.

Features of the design of the garage

The following circumstances are important for choosing a foundation:

• intention to arrange a basement or viewing hole;
• features of the materials that will be used for the construction of walls and roofing;
• the presence of a second floor above the main building for arranging a workshop or pantry.

Garage with viewing hole

With this arrangement, you first need to dig a trench for the pit. At the end of the work, it is better to sheathe the walls of the pit with temporary formwork and only after that proceed with digging trenches for the main foundation. Be sure to take into account the need to lay wall drainage below the level of the supporting surface of the foundation.

Wall drainage is done if there are recessed rooms in the structure

The main condition for the construction of a viewing hole is the location of the upper waters below 2.5 meters, even during their maximum rise - in the spring, during the melting of snow. If this condition is not met, reservoir drainage can be arranged under the pit (basement). This significantly increases labor costs and financial investments.

It is considered to be standard sizes foundation tapes for a garage 40x60 centimeters. This is enough to support the weight of a structure made of foam blocks, shell rock, cinder blocks or wooden beam. An increase in load during the construction of a house of brick or concrete, as well as during the construction of a second floor, requires a corresponding increase in the size of the base. The width of the walls should be 12–15 centimeters less than the width of the foundation.

Foundation types

Depending on the above circumstances, you can choose the following basic foundation designs:

1. Tape. This is the most common type of concrete base.

   If you need to equip a viewing hole in the garage, it is best to put it on a strip foundation

2. Pile on hollow submersible piles. A pipe with a diameter of up to 40 centimeters is installed in the pit, a reinforcing mesh is placed in it, then concrete is poured into the pipe. The upper ends of the piles are aligned horizontally along the stretched cord. Most often, such a foundation is used in areas with a natural slope.

   The foundation on piles is used on soft soils and in places with a large natural slope

3. Pile on screw metal piles. The basis for the walls of the garage is a Mauerlat, fixed at the upper ends of the supports. The advantage is the complete absence of earthworks.

   Screw pile foundation does not require excavation

4. Columnar. It is built on concrete pits.

Of course, not all the foundations built for garages are listed here, but only the most commonly used in individual construction.

Do-it-yourself foundation pouring

Of the variety of support bases, consider the most common type of foundation - tape.

Preparatory work

Foundation preparation is as follows:

• explore the site to identify hydrogeological conditions at the construction site;
• choose the appropriate type of foundation;
• draw up a draft design with all the features of the device;
• calculate and purchase the necessary materials;
• clear the area for the foundation by removing ground layer not only at the installation site, but also for several meters around it;
• make markings for digging trenches using pegs and a cord.

Marking is done with two cords in each direction, so that the corner of the foundation is at the point of their intersection.

When the markup is ready, you can start digging a trench. Its depth must correspond to the draft design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the drainage layer. To form it, you need to pour gravel into the bottom of the trench in a mixture of fine and medium fractions with a thickness of 20-30 centimeters. The embankment is leveled and compacted. On top of the gravel, backfill with medium-sized sand, carefully level, tamp and spill with water to compact.

Compacting the bedding layer with a vibrating plate significantly improves performance characteristics foundation

Formwork installation

For the manufacture of formwork for the garage foundation, you can use various materials:

• planed edged board;
• waterproof plywood with a thickness of 12 millimeters;
• chipboard;
• metal sheet;
• cement chipboard.

Other flat materials can also be used up to fixed formwork made of concrete profiles. The main requirement is a smooth forming surface.

Formwork can be assembled from any material with smooth walls, such as plywood

Before installing the formwork, two layers of roofing material waterproofing are laid on the bottom of the trench. At the place where communications are entered into the formwork, a pipe of the required size is built in from asbestos cement or plastic.

The formwork for a shallow strip foundation can be mounted in the following order:

1. According to the previously installed cord markings, racks from a bar of 50x50 millimeters must be driven into the bottom of the trench. The distance between them must correspond to the dimensions of the slab material or pre-knitted plank shields.
2. Plates or shields are attached to the racks with self-tapping screws from the inside.

   Shields from boards are attached to the racks, and then reinforced with jibs and transverse jumpers

3. The distance in width is regulated by transverse jumpers from a bar or board. They are also mounted on self-tapping screws.
4. To further strengthen the formwork, jibs are installed, which can rest against the ground or into a pre-hammered anchor dowel. The number of jibs between posts is determined by the flexibility of the forming sheet. In the place of their installation, it is also necessary to strengthen the crossbars.

The gap between the plates (shields) should not be more than two millimeters.

Video: formwork installation

Foundation reinforcement

The choice of reinforcing bars for the foundation depends on the weight of the future structure. For a garage, it is enough to use fittings with a diameter of 8-10 millimeters. The order of the reinforcing mesh is as follows:

1. The first layer of reinforcement is formed at a distance of 5 centimeters from the waterproofing. For this, fragments of brick are usually used. The distance between the bars should be within 12–14 centimeters. They are fastened with low-carbon steel knitting wire.
2. After that, racks of chopped reinforcement are attached.
3. The second and subsequent layers of the grid of reinforcement are formed at a distance of 14–15 centimeters above the first, observing the same dimensions. Exit of reinforcement elements from the concrete layer is not allowed. This will lead to corrosion destruction of the mesh parts. It is also not allowed to leave the ends of the reinforcement bars in the corners of the foundation . In these places they should be brought with a margin and bent to the next side. Joints are overlapped and tied with wire.

   Reinforcement of the foundation is carried out in several rows

Foundation pouring

For the manufacture of the supporting base of the garage, concrete grade 300 is usually used. To properly prepare it, the following materials are used:

• cement brand M400 - 1 bucket;
• river sand of the middle fraction - 4 buckets;
• gravel of medium fraction - 4 buckets.

The amount of water according to the rules should be half the volume of the remaining components. In our case, it will require 4.5 buckets. But here you need to be careful. The moisture content of other materials may be different, so water must be added in parts, controlling the consistency of the solution. When using water from a natural reservoir, care must be taken that organic inclusions in the form of aquatic plants do not come across in them.

The foundation is poured in layers. Given the small amount of work, it can be completed within one day. When pouring, the concrete mass must be carefully compacted, preventing the formation of air bubbles.

The pouring of the strip foundation for the garage must be completed within one day

The concrete setting time is at least 7 days, after which the formwork can be removed. However, the complete hardening of the concrete mass is at least 28 days. After this, work can continue. When it dries, the foundation must be covered with a plastic film, and in the hot season, moistened with water several times a day. With rapid drying, the concrete does not have time to crystallize properly. Subsequently, it may crack.

After dismantling the formwork, waterproofing must be applied to the surface of the foundation. Most often, bituminous mastic is used for this. It can be applied by spraying or with a conventional paint roller. The surface must be primed before application. The primer is selected in accordance with the recommendations on the packaging of the base material.

After applying a layer of mastic, it must be allowed to stand for a day, then apply a second layer. Backfilling can be done a day after the waterproofing device.

Video: do-it-yourself garage foundation

If all the above circumstances are taken into account and the design of the garage foundation is chosen correctly, it will stand on a solid foundation and serve for many years.

64 years old, pensioner, higher education, metallurgical engineer. Rate this article:

Garage construction

• Brick garage - from 16,000 rubles / m2
• Foam-Gas-concrete garage - from 11,000 rubles / m2
• frame garage- from 8000 rub/m2
• Garage from profiled timber - from 12,000 rubles / m2
• Glued laminated timber garage - from 16,000 rubles / m2
• Garage made of logs - from 13,000 rubles / m2
• Garage from reinforced concrete slabs - from 24,000 rubles / m2
• Metal garage (LSTK / Decking) - from 5,500 rubles / m2

Canopy construction

• Carport made of polycarbonate on iron poles - from 3300 rub/m2
• Cantilever carport - from 4700 rub/m2
• Forged carport - from 5100 rub/m2
• Canopy for a car made of corrugated board - from 4000 rubles / m2
• Carport made of metal tiles - from 4100 rub/m2
• Wooden carport - Custom

Roofing

truss system	from 300.00 rub.	m2
crate	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Sewing gables edged board	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Sewing gables with siding, block house, clapboard, etc.	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying under-roof waterproofing	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Roofing material laying	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Laying Ondulin	from 250.00 rub.	m2
Laying metal tiles	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying shingles	from 400.00 rub.	m2
OSB laying - plywood	from 200.00 rub.	m2
Insulation of roof slopes	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Mounting drainage system	from 250.00 rub.	p.m.

garage foundation prices

• Strip foundation (height 60cm - thickness 30cm) - from 3000 rub/m.p.
• Strip foundation (height 80cm - thickness 40cm) - from 4350 rub/m.p.
• Monolithic slab (height 20cm) - from 3500 rub/m2
• Monolithic slab (height 30cm) - from 4360 rub/m2

The cost of one screw pile with screwing and concreting

• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,000 rubles.
• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,200 rubles.
• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 3m - 3 300 rubles.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,100 rubles.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,400 rubles.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 3m - 3 500 rubles.

Electric installation work

Assembly, installation and installation of electrical panels	Unit rev.	Price
Installation of an outdoor electrical panel	PCS.	from 800 rub.
Installing a hidden electrical panel	PCS.	from 1500 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel without an electric energy meter	PCS.	from 2000 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel with an electric energy meter	PCS.	from 2500 rub.

Installation and disconnection of junction boxes 3	Unit rev.	Price
Up to 4 cables for open wiring on soft material (wood)	PCS.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for open wiring on solid material (brick / foam concrete / concrete)	PCS.	400/450/500 rub.
Up to 4 cables for wiring under drywall	PCS.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete/brick/concrete	PCS.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for open wiring on soft material (wood)	PCS.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for open wiring on solid material (brick / foam concrete / concrete)	PCS.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for electrical wiring under drywall	PCS.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete / brick / concrete	PCS.	600/650/700 rub.

Mounting (laying) power cable up to 4 mm2:2	Unit rev.	Price
Opened directly on the wall with staples	m/n.	50 rub.
Open in corrugated pipe on soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Open in corrugated pipe on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	150/150/150 rub.
Open in cable duct on soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Open in cable duct on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	200/200/200 rub.
Hidden in foam concrete	m/n.	300 rub.
Hidden in a brick	m/n.	350 rub.
Hidden in concrete	m/n.	400 rub.

Installation of a new electric point (socket/switch)1	Unit rev.	Price
Open wiring on soft material (wood)	PCS.	200 rub.
Exposed electrical wiring on solid material (brick / foam concrete / concrete)	PCS.	250/250/250 rub.
Wiring for drywall	PCS.	250 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete	PCS.	300 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in brick	PCS.	350 rub.
Hidden wiring in concrete	PCS.	400 rub.

Finishing work

• Installing an electrical kit inside the garage - from 10,000 rubles.
• Production of garage concrete floors - from 25,000 rubles.
• Replacement. Manufacturing wooden floors- from 20,000 rubles.
• Interior decoration garage dry lining - 800 rubles. per m2
• Manufacturing metal gate with a gate, painting - from 30,000 rubles.
• A set of overhead sectional doors + installation - from 45,000 rubles.
• Cosmetic repairs inside the garage - from 1500 rubles. per m2

This type of cellar does not take up much space on the site (and even saves it), you can go down into it even in winter when there are snowdrifts around (an ordinary cellar would still have to be dug out). Also, such a cellar does not need to be insulated.

When building this cellar, two main rules must be followed:

• Must be completely waterproof;
• Good ventilation.

It is better to carry out the installation of the basement at the same time as the construction of the garage itself. Since it will be more convenient to choose a bookmark option, install ventilation and waterproofing.

If at the time of installing the basement, the garage has been built for a long time, then it will be somewhat more difficult.

How to make a basement under the garage

Before building a garage, you must first of all study the soil, and its capabilities (more precisely, find out how deep the groundwater is) and whether it is possible to make a hole of about 300-350 cm.

If you are going to build a garage instead of a cellar, then it is better to use a strip foundation (in this case, part of the walls will replace the foundation itself).

In general, the basement pit itself is usually made with a depth of 150 to 300 centimeters.

If your area has a high level of groundwater, then the basement device must be made of cast-in-situ concrete, which has a high density and water resistance.

How to dig a hole in a basement garage

First of all, you need to deal with the pit (before that, it is better to decide how the pit will be used, as a cellar for conservation or as an inspection pit for a car).

The dimensions also depend on the purpose of the pit, if the pit under the basement is most often the same size as the garage itself, then the inspection pit should have clear dimensions.

For example, for a viewing hole, the length should be the length of the car itself + 100 cm, width - should accommodate the wheelbase of the car (although if you still don’t know which car you’ll buy) - then you can take the standard width - from 750 to 800 mm.

The depth of the pit is the growth of the owner of the garage + 100-150 mm. It is better to make a hole deeper than to stand bent over afterwards.

When we have already prepared a pit according to your size, you need to start concreting it.

But for starters, the bottom of the pit is well tamped (you can use a special machine) and a layer of gravel 100 mm thick is covered. Sand is poured on top of the gravel (50 mm layer).

If you have sufficiently wet soil, we still lay clay on top of the sand (it will be additional waterproofing).

A polyethylene film is laid over the clay (or sand).

Only after that you can start pouring concrete (and do not forget to reinforce it).

Foundation for a garage with a basement

At the stage of preparatory work, we calculate the parameters of the foundation, purchase the necessary materials (and possibly buy or rent equipment).

The height of the basement is usually made from 170 to 180 cm.

After completing all the calculations, you need to make markings for the foundation.

In fact, marking is needed for proper land work.

Using markup, you can detect some errors that were made in the calculations

Usually markup is done with the help of pegs, on which the rope is fixed.

How to make a basement with a basement: making formwork.

Now we turn to the formwork, for formwork they often take boards (thickness 2.5 cm). To reduce the absorbency of the boards themselves, they are planed from the side of the foundation and soaked a little in water.

After the boards are prepared, shields are made of them and installed in trenches (fixation occurs due to struts and slopes).

After that, you need to do reinforcement, take rods 8-12 mm thick, which are welded together. Rods that are installed vertically are best installed after 50 cm.

After the reinforcement cage is ready and installed inside the formwork, we pour the cement.

We take cement M400 and higher (cement, crushed stone, water 1: 4: 1) and pour it into the trench. After pouring the foundation (14-20 days), the formwork is removed.

Basement under the garage with your own hands

The garage is a very convenient place to store almost unnecessary things. There is practically no space for this in the apartment, so many people use the garage. And it is worth noting that the number of things that may someday come in handy goes beyond all limits. There are so many of them in the garage that even the car can hardly drive. There is a way out, along with a viewing hole, which is simply necessary in the garage, to build a basement. It is not difficult to do this at all, but step-by-step instructions will help you do it right.

Step #1. The study of geology

First of all, before building a basement, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the soil and the level of groundwater. This will help determine the feasibility of equipping the basement and the cost of these works. If the soil is rocky or the groundwater level is quite high, then the cost of its construction will increase exponentially. In these cases, you can not do without special equipment and the help of specialists.

When building a basement inside an existing garage, all the features of the geology are already known, they were thoroughly studied when building a house for a car. If construction is underway for the first time, then you need to pay attention to all the nuances.

Step #2. Determining the size of the future basement.

It should be noted here that if the garage is just being built, then it is quite advisable to make a foundation pit according to its size, then the basement walls will simultaneously serve as a foundation. If the garage is already standing and it does not provide for a basement, the dimensions of the basement will be a little more modest. From the walls of the building you will need to retreat approximately

The minimum height of the structure should correspond to the growth of the owner, plus a margin of 150 - 200 mm, so that a person can move freely around the basement.

Step #3. Sketches of the future basement

Before starting construction, you should sketch out a drawing of the future storage with actual dimensions. This will allow you to choose the best way to lay the foundation, think over the high-quality implementation of waterproofing work and the arrangement of the ventilation system, make the layout of the room and calculate the actual amount of building materials needed for its construction.

Step number 4. Excavation

The advantage of building a basement in an open area is that the work can be automated as much as possible. Excavation work is carried out with an excavator. In the garage, work on the development of the pit will have to be done manually, followed by transportation of excess soil outside the garage.

If the underground water is above the level of the basement floor, you need to take care of lowering the height of the groundwater for the duration of the construction work, the tightness of the basement and its subsequent thorough waterproofing.

Step number 5. Basement floor installation

The depth under the basement storage should be 300-350 mm deeper than the mark of the future floor. First you need to arrange the base of the floor. To do this, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with crushed stone of a fine fraction and carefully compact it. Next, pour the so-called pillow with hot bitumen.

After it hardens, a reinforcing mesh is made and poured with heavy concrete. The floor thickness must be at least 200 mm.

Step number 6. Walling

The material for the walls in the basement depends on the characteristics of the soil. If the basement is being built in dry soils, then solid red brick is perfect for the walls. You can use cinder blocks, but to exclude their interaction with moisture, which causes detrimental effects, it is better to cover the walls with waterproofing materials from the outside.

In wet ground, reinforced concrete is used. Foundation blocks will serve as an ideal material.

However, their use is possible only if there is a free entrance and a lifting mechanism, otherwise it is possible to make monolithic walls by pouring concrete into the prepared formwork.

It is made from wood. The boards are fastened with nails, see photo. Next, a reinforcement structure is installed. It should be noted that the height of each layer of poured concrete should be no more than 400 mm.

After pouring the first layer, formwork is installed for the next one of the same dimensions.

Step number 7. Ceiling device

When covering the basement, you need to remember that its ceiling serves as the floor of the garage, so it must be strong and reliable, able to withstand the weight of the car. In a garage under construction, the basement can be covered with ready-made factory slabs; in an existing one, it is advisable to fill in a monolithic ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to install the formwork, make and mount a reinforced mesh and pour it with heavy concrete. The thickness of the slab must be at least 200 mm.

Step number 8. Waterproofing works

Basement waterproofing is a fairly responsible undertaking. If you neglect these works, then the result will be a room unsuitable for storing anything. If the basement is located in dry and dense soils, then a complex waterproofing system is not needed.

It is enough to apply a layer of hot bituminous mastic on the walls and floor.

A waterproofing system in wet soils requires a more serious approach. The most reliable is external waterproofing. You can arrange it by using roll materials or coating polymer mastics, liquid rubber and liquid glass.

The outer surface of the walls is plastered to level the surface with a waterproofing compound, preferably with reinforcement. As a plaster composition, it is better to use solutions of well-known companies Ceresit, IVSIL, Xypex Chemical Corporation, BASF, Saint-Gobain WEBER-VETONIT, Bastion, Irmast-Holding, Penetron-Russia.

After that, a layer of waterproofing is applied (roofing material, polymer membranes, bitumen-containing mastics or other coating agents intended for waterproofing foundations).

In the future, the basement wall is plastered again.

The bottom of the trench is covered with sand and compacted, then it is necessary to fix the geotextile sheet, blocking the bottom of the trench and its back wall. After that, crushed stone of a large fraction must be filled in and a PVC pipe is installed, which acts as a drainage. Ground water is discharged into a specially prepared sewer well.

A layer of crushed stone 100-150 mm is laid on top of the pipe and covered with a geotextile sheet.

A layer of clay must be laid near the concrete wall, it will serve as a hydraulic lock, and the trench should be covered with sand and tamped so that the soil does not shrink.

If, for some reason, external waterproofing cannot be performed, it is produced from the inside.

Step #9 Ventilation

An equally important event is the air exchange device in the basement. You can go the easy way and organize natural ventilation in the basement. It is not difficult to do this, but natural air exchange does not give the desired effect, although it has the right to life.

More reliable is the forced ventilation option. This type of air exchange can be performed by simply adding an electric fan to the natural ventilation exhaust duct. This will maintain normal temperature and humidity in the basement, regardless of the season or adverse weather.

Installation of ventilation ducts is carried out as follows:

The supply channel is located at a height of 150-200 mm from the floor level, its opposite end is brought out into the street, to a height of 200-300 mm. The exhaust duct must be placed as close as possible to the ceiling and brought out half a meter above the level of the garage roof.

As mentioned above, an electric fan is installed in the exhaust duct. To exclude the formation of condensate due to temperature differences, the outer part of the ventilation ducts must be insulated.

To prevent precipitation from entering the duct, it is recommended to install a fungus on its head,

and to protect against rodents, safety metal nets.

Step number 10. Ladder device

When building a basement, along with a garage, you can use a ready-made reinforced concrete flight of stairs, if everything takes place in an existing garage, then it is better to make it from improvised materials with your own hands.

The switch must be located in the garage,

and the luminaire must be waterproof.

Step number 12. Finishing work

The walls of the basement must be plastered with a water-repellent cement mixture such as Ceresit, Sm-11, Osovit Startwell, having previously fixed a thin metal mesh with dowels. After the surface dries, you can whitewash it with lime, which has protective and disinfecting properties, or paint with acrylic and silicate paints containing antiseptic additives, having previously treated the surface with a deep penetration primer.

Basement project under the garage photo and video

Do-it-yourself dry basement, cellar and pit in the garage on video

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Horse or bulk cellar

1. about 3.5 meters wide;
2. up to 4 meters long.

1. up to 8 meters wide;
2. up to 24 meters long;

By type of storage there are:

• Stationary. They serve up to 8 years.
• collapsible

• Pos. 1 - bins.
• Pos. 2 - soil deboning.
• Pos. 5 - manhole with a door.

• The roof is built from boards.

• Ventilation is being built (see Ventilation in the cellar: doing it right

• The turf layer is removed.

1. expanded clay;
2. small gravel;
3. coarse sand.

1. expanded clay;
2. Styrofoam;

• How to make a hole in the cellar correctly): internal and external.

wall cellar

1. burnt brick;
2. monolithic concrete.

1. croaker;
2. any clay;
3. ruberoid in two layers.

The construction of a warehouse for storing vegetables on your site is a guarantee of the quality of food content all year round. => DIY Labaz: Detailed Building Guide => => publish => open => closed => => labaz-svoimi-rukami-245 => => => 2019-04-17 15:36:32 => 2019-04-17 11:36:32 => => 0 =>?p=4061 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw =>)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 4061 => 2 => 2016-05-07 12:16:56 => 2016-05-07 08:16:56 => Storehouse at their summer cottage low-lying and waterlogged areas, where the construction of a dry-type storage facility is impossible due to the presence of high level groundwater. By appearance a storage shed is a hut covered with turf, with a small manhole door with a constant temperature inside the building of about 2-3 degrees. How to build a vegetable storehouse with your own hands, the article will tell you.

Features and types of storage sheds for storing vegetables

A horse or bulk cellar can be built on any site, while decorating it beautifully, which will make the territory more attractive and original. During the construction of the warehouse great importance It has right choice its location. Construction must be carried out on a dry, preferably elevated, place where the groundwater level is at least 50 centimeters below the bottom of the storage.

Tip: When the water is very close, it is necessary to create a pillow under the bottom of the storage for vegetables, which includes sand and gravel. Such drainage will prevent water from seeping into the room.

The optimal dimensions for a vegetable shed are:

• The height of the structure in the middle part is up to two meters so that the vegetables cannot freeze.
• For private plots, storage is selected:

1. about 3.5 meters wide;
2. up to 4 meters long.

• For commercial storage warehouses are built:

1. up to 8 meters wide;
2. up to 24 meters long;
3. passages with a width of approximately 0.7 meters, the presence of one or two passages depends on the size of the cellar.

By type of storage there are:

• Stationary. They serve up to 8 years.
• collapsible. They can serve up to 10 years. Such structures are erected in the fall and dismantled next year in the spring. This facilitates the annual cleaning and subsequent disinfection of the vegetable store.

Tip: The site on which the vegetable storage previously stood should be disinfected every time after it is dismantled. In this case, the soil is dug up to a depth of approximately 30 centimeters and abundantly spilled with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

How to build a storage shed with a bunding

Such a structure is the simplest, resembling an ordinary hut; logs or boards are used for its construction.

Tip: It is not necessary to buy new materials, on each site you can find previously used building materials.

Scheme of the construction of a vegetable storeroom According to the scheme:

• Pos. 1 - bins.
• Pos. 2 - soil deboning.
• Pos. 3 - coating with roofing material.
• Pos. 4 - crate of boards, rafters.
• Pos. 5 - manhole with a door.

Instructions for the construction of such a cellar include:

• Logs with a diameter of up to 25 centimeters are skinned.
• They are covered with a bitumen composition or fired to a height of about 60 centimeters, which will double the duration of its operation.
• With a processed edge, the blanks are dug into the ground around the entire perimeter of the building.
• The upper ends of the elements are securely connected to each other by long poles, which makes it possible to obtain a one-piece structure.
• A crate is made from the "croaker".
• The roof is built from boards.
• The structure is covered with roofing material, which creates a fairly reliable waterproofing.
• Thermal insulation is being installed. For this:

1. the end side is sewn up with two rows of boards;
2. roofing felt is laid between them.

• The roof is filled or bunded with peat soil, which perfectly retains heat.
• On it you can sow any creeping or undersized plants.
• An entrance is made with a canopy and an insulated door.

Tip: The entrance to the storehouse must be done on the north side.

• To protect against water entering the cellar, a shallow ditch breaks out around the entire perimeter.
• Ventilation is being constructed (see Ventilation in the cellar: doing it right). A wooden box is used for the hood, the hood is adjusted by a valve and two pipes:

1. exhaust, located under the ceiling;
2. supply, is placed higher than the floor level by 45 centimeters.

The optimal dimensions of the storage shed with bunding will be 4x8 meters, and its service life is approximately 10 years.

Tip: Roof edges should reach the ground itself. Such a built cellar in appearance should resemble a hut. And when snow falls in winter, it will be a natural insulation.

How to build a cellar without embankment

Shed without bunding When constructing such a cellar, the following sequence of work must be observed:

• The marking of the future structure is in progress.
• The turf layer is removed.
• A hole is dug up to 60 centimeters deep.
• The earth is collected in one heap, for further use.
• The site is leveled and carefully compacted.
• The drainage pillow is arranged. For this are used:

1. expanded clay;
2. small gravel;
3. coarse sand.

This creates the necessary waterproofing in the storehouse:

• Protection against the penetration of rodents is created: well-soaked and thoroughly kneaded clay is laid out on the pillow with a layer about 12 centimeters thick.
• Red bricks are placed flat in the mixture with a small gap between them.
• Bricks are laid out for the side walls - placed on edge. To connect the elements, a mixture consisting of sand, lime and clay is used. Laying should be carried out above ground level by one shovel bayonet.
• The ceiling and walls are made of fairly thick boards, 40 - 50 millimeters thick. Elements are sewn in two rows, heat-insulating material is placed between them:

1. expanded clay;
2. Styrofoam;

• The structure is sheathed with roofing material, which avoids drafts in the vegetable shed.
• On the end side of such a cellar, an entrance or a hole is arranged with two doors (see How to make a hole in the cellar correctly): internal and external.

Tip: In severe frosts, insulation must be laid between the doors. To improve the thermal insulation of the storage, you need to build a small vestibule. A ventilation pipe is also installed here.

• A roof is being erected: single or gable of slate or roofing felt.
• A drainage ditch is dug up to 50 centimeters deep along the entire perimeter of the building and a blind area one meter wide is equipped with a slope from the storage, which will prevent its flooding.

How to build a wall cellar

A good solution, which saves the area of ​​​​the site, is the construction of a cellar near one of the walls of the house. In this case, the costs will be minimal.
wall cellar The order of construction is as follows:

• The perimeter of the building is indicated.
• The walls of the vault are laid out. For this you can take:

1. burnt brick;
2. monolithic concrete.

The masonry of the walls is carried out in one brick on a sand-cement mortar. Its ratio is 3:1. The walls of the structure outside and inside are carefully plastered with a cement composition.

• Outside of the building, bituminous grease is applied in two layers, which creates a reliable waterproofing.
• The floor is being made. To do this, the surface of the earth is carefully leveled, cleaned, and a concrete substrate up to 20 centimeters thick is prepared.
• After about 10 days, when the concrete has hardened, a cement-sand mortar about 6 centimeters thick is poured.

Tip: To avoid creating unnecessary stresses in the structure, all concrete work should be carried out in one day. In this case, the solution will solidify evenly over the entire area.

• The roof is constructed from materials such as:

1. croaker;
2. any clay;
3. ruberoid in two layers.

• The embankment is carried out with dry soil and sown with low-growing perennial plants.
• Along the perimeter of the ground manhole, a blind area is made with a slope at a slight degree away from the building and a groove breaks out up to 25 centimeters deep, which will allow rain or melt water to be diverted from the building.
• The finished cellar is equipped with the necessary shelves, containers, where vegetables, home preservation and other products will be placed.
• Waterproofing, ventilation system, insulation, drainage system are being installed.

The construction of a warehouse for storing vegetables on your site is a guarantee of the quality of food content all year round. => DIY Labaz: Detailed Building Guide => => publish => open => closed => => labaz-svoimi-rukami-245 => => => 2019-04-17 15:36:32 => 2019-04-17 11:36:32 => => 0 =>?p=4061 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw =>) => 0 => -1 => 386 => 386 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => => => = > => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))