Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options with photos. DIY compost pit. Manufacturing options step by step with photos How to make a good compost pit
How to make a compost pit correctly - every owner faces this question sooner or later suburban area. From this article you will learn how to properly arrange a place for obtaining natural fertilizers.
Compost - effective remedy to increase soil fertility. Even novice gardeners know this. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to set up a compost pit. There are many nuances in this matter. And only a competent approach will allow you to “kill two birds with one stone” - recycle household waste and lay the foundations for a rich harvest.
Choosing a suitable place
If you are puzzling over the question of how to properly make a compost pit, then the first thing you should take care of is choosing a suitable location.
As a rule, a compost heap is set up behind outbuildings, in the backyard of the site. Don't stir the pit too close to the source drinking water. Optimal distance it is 25 meters away. The place should be shaded, because direct sunlight slows down processing processes. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind; it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted with the smell emitted by the future fertilizer.
Think about ease of access too. Many people forget about this, and then suffer with the storage of garbage and the selection of humus. It’s good if the surface of the earth is flat - stagnation of water reduces the flow of oxygen, which will significantly extend the “cooking” time of the most valuable additive.
Have you chosen a location for your composter? Great! Clear the soil of turf and loosen it to a depth of 30 cm. This way you will create favorable conditions for the life of worms and other beneficial microorganisms that take an active part in processing.
About sizes and design features
So, we sorted out the place for the composter. And here a new question arises: what size should a compost pit be? The size is determined according to the “two cycles” principle. That is, the first half of the pit should be occupied by waste that has accumulated over 2 years, the second half by “young” compost (no older than 2 years).
It is important to understand that the larger the compost pit, the faster it heats up to the desired temperature (up to 60 degrees). If the pit is small, then it, of course, will also heat up, but hardly to the temperature levels at which all pathogenic flora and weeds die. Experts recommend laying a compost heap with the following dimensions: height - at least 1.2 m, width - 1.5 m, length - 2 m.
Be sure to provide a removable lid for the composter. Do not cover the bottom with film, rubber, metal sheets or slate. They will prevent moisture from passing upward, which means the compost will be dry. The best floor for a compost pit is earthen.
Manufacturing options
Compost heaps can be of several types. We will consider the arrangement options, and you will choose the most convenient for you.
Ordinary pit
The “composter for the lazy” is an ordinary shallow pit. First, lay tree bark, hay or branches on the bottom. Next - plant and food residues. Cover with black plastic wrap. After each time you dump new waste, cover it with grass. To be honest, this option cannot be called successful - the contents of the pit will not warm up enough, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on mixing. It's better to try and build something more effective.
Wooden two-section composter
A wooden box immersed in the ground is the most common option. Dig a hole about 50-80 cm deep, 1.5-2 meters wide and 2-3 meters long. Dig support beams in the corners, 20 cm away from the edges of the hole. Pipe sections will do a good job with this task. Pre-treat them with a bioprotective composition.
Assemble three walls of the box from boards, providing ventilation holes. Install and level if necessary. Divide the composter into two parts using a wooden board. The first compartment is for “old” compost, the second is for “young” compost. Screw the front wall.
Cover the bottom with straw or tree bark. This will protect against the accumulation of excess liquid and ensure normal air exchange. The lid can be made from a sheet of plywood secured to the back wall with hinges. Process first wooden parts impregnation that protects against moisture and insects, and then cover with acrylic paint in two layers.
You can divide the compost pit not into two, but into three sections. The first compartment is for finished compost, the second is for ripening compost, the third is for storing new waste.
Most often, the composter is made of wood, but if desired, you can use slate, metal sheets or brick.
Composter with one section
If a two- or three-compartment composter seems inconvenient to you, then you can make a pit with one compartment. Place the wooden box so that there is 30 cm between the ground and the edges. Ripe compost will be selected from this hole. New raw materials are laid on top, that is, there is no need to loosen the fertilizer. In principle it is very convenient.
Concreted pit
For those who want to make a compost pit once and not worry about it anymore, we should recommend a concrete “tank”. Mark the area (approximately 2x3 meters) and dig a shallow trench (70-80 cm). Build formwork 10-12 cm thick around the perimeter of the future composter. Prepare concrete and pour it into the formwork. After final hardening, the formwork is disassembled. Place waste in the pit and cover it with film, metal mesh or wooden shields. That's all.
Plastic containers
A modern interpretation of a traditional pit that requires some modification. Plastic does not allow air to pass through, so you will have to make ventilation holes yourself. This can be difficult to do. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic composter equipped with a lid, ventilation ducts and lower doors for laying out fertilizers. Volume may vary. On average - from 400 to 1000 liters. The cost varies from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.
When the work on arranging a compost pit is completed, you should think about how to use it correctly. After all, how quickly you get humus and how nutritious it will be directly depends on this.
- From time to time, “comb” the contents of the pit with a pitchfork. This will ensure access to oxygen and speed up the decay process;
- do not forget to water the compost heap - dry waste does not decompose;
- The film covering the pit will help speed up the “cooking” process;
- sometimes add worms to the box and add drugs that activate decomposition (Compostin, Compostar, Baikal EM-1, etc.);
- lay the raw materials in layers. Alternate plant residues with food waste, wet with dry;
- will speed up the decomposition process of cow manure, as well as some plants (dandelion, chamomile, valerian, yarrow);
- do not compact the layers tightly, make sure that the contents are not too wet, too loose or, conversely, dry;
- There should be 5 times more dry material in the compost heap than wet material.
And finally, about what can be put into the composter and what cannot. This, by the way, is the defining moment for obtaining good fertilizer. Plant residues - mown grass, straw, tree bark, leaves, branches, wood ash - are thrown into the compost pit. Will also come in handy food waste- tea leaves, peels of fruits and vegetables, eggshells, leftover cereals and soups. Black and white newspapers, napkins, cardboard, old wool or cotton items are suitable.
To enrich the contents of the pit with nitrogen, from time to time you need to add manure, bird droppings, bone meal, bean and pea stalks to it. Don't forget about superphosphates, dolomite flour and complex mineral fertilizers.
You cannot bring in animal excrement, fats, bones, spoiled foods, tomato and potato tops, weed seeds, plants treated with herbicides, inorganic waste (rubber, plastic, glass, synthetics).
Video: Construction of a modern compost pit on a personal plot
Organic fertilizers are not all equally available. It is possible to obtain manure in quantities sufficient to fertilize the site only if it is possible to keep livestock. Otherwise, all that remains is to buy manure. The situation is much simpler with compost. By building a compost pit on your site, you can organize the production of excellent, highly environmentally friendly, first-class fertilizer. In addition, properly prepared compost prevents the ingress of helminth eggs, which are often found in manure.
What you need for a compost pit
Compost is a product obtained as a result of the natural processing of plants. For a small standard area, a pit with a volume of one and a half is quite suitable. square meters. A set of tools necessary for preparing a hole is available on the site of every self-respecting gardener - this is a bayonet shovel, covering material (for example, old film) and a hacksaw for wood.
To strengthen the edges of a dug hole, boards, pieces of slate, or brick can be used. The compost should be placed in a secluded area of the site and in such a way that the wind does not carry the aromas of the rotting mass to you. You should not build a structure near fruit trees - they may die from such proximity.
How to make a compost pit
Make a mark on the ground for the future compost pit and use half a shovel to remove the turf around the entire perimeter. There is no need to dig very deep - this will lead to the constant accumulation of rainwater, which will slow down the decay process. Secure wooden pegs along the edges of the removed turf. They are driven deep, after which boards are nailed to them. The result will be something like a sandbox, but it should be filled not with sand, but with plant debris.
For compost, you can use mowed grass, leaves, tops, and rotten root crops. Raw fruits, grains, branches, sawdust and even small pieces of paper will do. Bones, potato tops, animal excrement and inorganic waste should not be thrown into the compost.
When filling, the main thing is to dump plant residues in as large quantities as possible, but they should not be compacted, because it will turn into silage. At correct installation The compost will rise slightly above the edges of the boards. If there are no extra boards on the site, you can simply form a pile and line it around the edges with pieces of slate or rubber mats. In dry weather, the future compost must be watered.
Finally, the pit must be covered with film or other covering material - this will help create a greenhouse effect. The process of natural processing of the contents of the compost pit will take one and a half to two years.
A compost pit made from organic waste is an integral part of a summer cottage or garden plot. If a person has his own garden, he tries to cultivate healthy vegetation and fruits that do not contain nitrates on fertile soil. For this purpose, they use organic fertilizers obtained from compost. The purpose of this article is to tell garden owners how to make a compost pit from inexpensive scrap materials.
Instructions for making a compost pit (box) with your own hands
Making a compost bin with your own hands is not difficult. Its arrangement involves the use of lightweight and inexpensive components. In the example below, a compost bin is created from pallets used in the construction industry for folding Supplies. You can purchase such pallets for a small amount or even get them for free by picking them up after unloading the building materials.
making a compost pit with your own hands. Photo
If you don’t yet know how to create a compost pit with your own hands, step-by-step instruction, given below, will tell you in detail about this procedure.
First thing select a location, most suitable for arranging a compost heap. This area should be located away from residential buildings and preferably in an area where winds prevail. This will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odor from compost in the yard.
Follow drawing, provided as an example, to properly create a compost bin. Remember that it must have a presentable appearance, be easy to use, and be easy to dismantle when filled with organic waste.
DIY compost pit manufacturing options. Photo
Disassemble prepared wooden pallets by removing connecting elements (nails). The result of this work will be the production of edged boards.
Take advantage circular saw, to divide all the boards are cut into blanks about 1 m long. It is from these that the compost bin will be created.
In order to assemble a solid structure from individual boards, two of them should cut out use a jigsaw to make rectangular holes. The photos and videos included with the instructions will help the craftsman figure out how to make cuts in the remaining boards in order to accurately connect them to the two cross beams.
DIY compost pit step by step with photos
Installation All boards (except the front ones) are carried out vertically, and they are fastened with mounting glue. The first (front) board is arranged at a slight angle to the entire structure, and without the use of an adhesive solution. Compliance with this condition is necessary to facilitate disassembly of the structure. The design of a compost bin of the described type allows you to easily move it to another place and disassemble it after filling it with organic waste and plant debris.
To make a compost bin made from wooden pallets stable, when installing it in the designated area, you should: level out lower boards of the finished box using a level.
As you can see, very little effort needs to be put into creating a compost pit from waste materials from the construction industry. The finished compost bin looks decent and makes it possible to recycle all unnecessary vegetation from your own garden plot. Gradually compacting in such a container, and being under the influence of moisture and putrefactive bacteria, the vegetation turns into high-quality organic fertilizer, ideal for feeding garden vegetation.
How to make a compost pit. Video
Making your own compost bin
The issue related to the disposal of plant waste on a personal plot worries most gardeners. There is no need to take them outside the garden, because with the right approach, organic matter can become excellent fertilizer. It is better to put unnecessary vegetation, as noted above, in a compost pit, which should be voluminous. We suggest considering the option of building a compost pit with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for which will help even a beginner in this matter carry out the procedure.
As an example, let's take the design compost bin consisting of three sections.
Set 8 wooden columns, having previously treated the lower part of each of them (the one that will be located underground) with a protective compound. As a protective solution, you can use fuel oil, tar or used machine oil.
If fence is strong and reliable in your garden plot, then its canvas can be used as a support for one of the sides of the compost bin bars (as shown in the photo). Actually, this option makes the task easier, eliminating the need to dig several more holes for the posts.
The next stage in creating the structure is the installation of sectional partitions. To do this, nail several boards to the supports, making sure to leave small slits between them for ventilation. It should also be taken into account that small spaces will be created in two compartments of the drawer. doors, therefore, its front part should be sheathed with boards only up to half the height.
The third compartment is equipped with a large door, and therefore it is worth nailing only one board in the lower, front part of the box.
The next stage of work is installation caps The end sections of sectional partitions, as well as the rear and front walls, are reinforced with crossbars.
DIY compost bin. Photo
The doors are hung, which also serve as lids for the compost bin. It is already clear that there will be one large and two small doors in front.
When creating a wooden compost box, immediately make sure that the wood does not become an integral component of organic fertilizers prepared from plant waste. The process of compost maturation involves the gradual decomposition of organic matter, and wood also belongs to the components of natural, organic origin. And therefore, when constructing a three-section compost bin from boards, it is advisable to soak each part well special composition deep penetration. It will protect the tree from moisture, putrefactive processes and harmful insects. Buy now solution for comprehensive protection wooden surfaces is not difficult, but remember that it must be non-toxic. Then the organic fertilizer (compost) will be of high quality.
Once the boards are soaked, the compost bin is ready. painted in a color acceptable to you. It is advisable to choose non-toxic paint. It should be highly resistant to temperature changes and not fade in the sun. Apply it to the box in two layers.
The last stage of creating the structure is to attach the latches and handles. The compost pit made from boards is completely ready for use!
Compost pit. Options for its equipment
Now there are many different technologies for building compost pits with your own hands. Every dacha owner or country house With land plot selects the type of construction that is ideally suited to specific local conditions. Here are some of the most common types of equipment for compost pits.
Option 1. It is rarely used, and mainly in cases where ready-made compost is supposed to be used no earlier than after 1.5-2 years. The essence of the work here is to dig a hole in a designated area of the area. It should be similar in shape to a well, but not so deep. The walls of the compost pit must be strengthened so that the soil does not collapse. The peculiarity of a pit prepared in this way is that in it the raw materials for fertilizer will ripen naturally, without human intervention. And therefore it is worth taking care to create optimal conditions for the preparation of organic fertilizers. The walls of the finished pit begin to be sheathed at a height of 15-25 cm from the bottom, while no material is laid on the bottom itself. This will allow microorganisms and worms to penetrate from the soil into the stacked vegetation residues unhindered.
Advice. Before putting plant matter into the hole, loosen its bottom well, and also equip a ventilation outlet in the form of a pipe. After heavy rains or after abundant watering, cover the pit with compost with plastic wrap. This activates the work of microorganisms, and the decomposition of organic matter will go faster.
If possible, it is better to create a compost pit in this way outside the local area, in a forest belt.
Option 2. In this case, the compost pit is set up right in the garden. Many land owners note that this option is more convenient in the sense that organic fertilizers are unloaded from the pit as needed. The basis of the structure is formwork, and it can be made from any available materials. These can be plastic barrels or a box assembled from separate boards. The presented method also involves providing access to worms and microorganisms into the thickness of organic residues. And therefore, before laying the vegetation, the soil is loosened, and the formwork structure is slightly deepened (about 20-30 cm). Necessity of availability natural circulation air in the created box causes cracks to remain between the plank structural elements, or the formation of holes in plastic surfaces.
Option 3. Another method of preparing organic fertilizers from plant residues is to create a so-called pile, or compost heap. This technology is considered the simplest, but when using it, hygiene requirements are not observed. On a personal plot, when choosing this method of preparing compost, select optimal site, on which a substrate of gravel, sand or dry grass is immediately made. They put it on top vegetable waste, and wait for them to overheat. Organic fertilizer reaches full readiness in two years or more. The difficulty lies in the fact that the pile has to be stirred periodically, and before the onset of winter, you also have to insulate it so that the microorganisms do not die under the influence of the cold.
So, there are many options for equipping a compost pit, and the difference between them is based both on the materials used and on the size and features of its design. In any case, with the right approach, creating it yourself will not be difficult even for a novice master.
Slate compost pit
To create a compost pit with your own hands, it requires the presence of durable materials from which you could make the walls of a box in which plant debris will be stored. The previous sections have already described the possibilities of forming such structures from boards, construction pallets or plastic barrels. There is another one good way- compost bin made of waste slate. Many zealous dacha owners will probably have these in their households. Slate leaves make an excellent base for the sides of a compost bin. In addition, a compost pit made from such material will be reliable and durable. To create a slate box with your own hands, we recommend doing the work in the following sequence:
Decide on the exact parameters designs. Remember that the hole should be sized so that all the plant waste collected from the site over two seasons (and sometimes more time) can fit inside it. If we take into account that a small pile of vegetation residues (tops, fallen leaves) is approximately 0.25 cubic meters in volume, then a pit for processing them can be made measuring 1m*1m*1m. In this case, there will still be some space left for food waste.
After selecting the territory, you will need to do a little deepening in the soil (20-30 cm).
In the corners of the structure and in the central part are installed racks, created from thick tree branches or ordinary metal pipes small diameter.
Using prepared slate sheets, they are formed walls compost bin.
The compost matures in the pit for two years, and the slate partition, located in the middle of the box, makes it possible to use the internal space of the pit continuously. That is, the result of the work is a two-section slate box, each of the compartments of which is used in turn.
List of requirements for a compost bin
When studying the question of how to make a compost pit from certain materials, you should not forget about the requirements for such structures. First of all, when making a compost bin, you need to take into account that organic matter needs a constant flow of air to ripen. Therefore, on the sides of the structure there must be ventilation holes. To useful material from the created organic fertilizer is not washed into the ground, it is advisable to cover the compost pit during rain lid. Instead of a lid, you can use ordinary plastic film, but in this case it will need to be somehow fixed at the edges to prevent it from being blown away by the wind. It should also be taken into account that the compost ripens faster from below, so the lower part should be easily accessible. In the diagram above you can see how the simplest compost bin works. Note that the boards placed on the side are removable, and the dimensions of the structure can be changed. As an option, you could consider creating a drawer with removable front boards.
There is also a way to create an opening drawer of a simpler design. The loops in it will be made of durable strips of rubber or other elastic material. They are well fixed on the surface of boards nailed together.
An economical option for creating a compost bin would be a product made from wooden pallets, the construction of which does not require special skills or a lot of time.
What can and cannot be thrown into a compost bin?
Having figured out how a compost pit is made from various consumables, you cannot ignore recommendations regarding what waste can be thrown into it and what cannot.
A self-constructed compost pit will fully justify the purpose of its creation if the following types of organic waste are collected in it:
- Fallen tree bark, old leaves and small branches, pine needles, grass roots and small tree roots.
- Rotted manure and bird guano.
- Grass and weed clippings.
- Leftover herbal tea or coffee.
- Peeling vegetables and fruits, missing berries, fruits and vegetables.
- Ash left over from burning wood.
- Wood shavings, straw, sawdust, hay.
- Napkins, cardboard, paper bags and paper itself.
Recommendation. To make a thick layer of grass laid in a compost pit decompose faster, sprinkle fresh, loose soil on top of it. If this is not done, the process of overheating the grass will drag on for a period of six months to a year.
As for those components that cannot be placed in a compost pit, their list includes:
- Potato and tomato tops. Often it is infected with late blight spores, and putting it in compost will subsequently lead to the spread of the disease throughout garden plot, and late blight damage to new seasonal vegetation.
- Products of inorganic origin that will not decompose under the influence of natural factors. These include metal, polyethylene bags, rubber and synthetics, components with a plastic base.
- Vegetation generously fertilized with chemicals.
- The branches are thick and take a long time to rot.
- Weed seeds that have already passed the ripening stage.
- Feces of animals living in the house. They may contain inclusions in the form of bones or helminth eggs.
How to properly operate a compost bin?
In the previous sections of our article, we found out how to make a compost pit from available components, as well as what can be put in it and what is not advisable to put in the pit. Now it remains to identify those simple requirements that will help to properly operate the compost storage structure throughout the year. Here they are:
- Try to exercise periodically loosening compost with a garden fork. This will ensure a flow of oxygen to the rotting organic matter. Mixing waste will help speed up the decomposition process.
- The compost heap should be used occasionally water. If the weather is dry and hot outside, the number of waterings of ripening compost should be increased. With regular moistening, the contents of the pit will rot better and faster. But dry compost completely stops decomposing.
- If there is such a possibility, then it is advisable to periodically lay it in the thickness of rotting vegetation. Californian worms. They will not only loosen the contents of the compost, but also partially process it.
- It is advisable to place it on top of the waste in the pit. dark plastic film. Thanks to it, a greenhouse effect will arise in the thickness of the raw biomaterial, and as a result, the temperature inside the heap will increase significantly. Vegetation stacked in layers will burn out faster. At the same time, the presence of the film ensures the preservation of a moist environment in the compost and prevents the growth of weeds there. The ripening period for a compost heap covered with film is 3-4 months. If the pit with organic matter is not covered, the process of waste maturation will last for a whole year.
- If possible, it is recommended to add to the compost pit special drugs, accelerating the decomposition procedure of components. Among the most famous such compositions are Baikal EM-1, Sanex EcoCompost, Compostar, Compostin, Embionic.
With proper arrangement of a compost pit and regular maintenance of it, owners of personal plots will be able to obtain high-quality fertilizer that does not contain harmful substances.
DIY compost pit. Video
A compost pit is a structure in which compost matures. This is a product of decay of organic waste, considered one of best options fertilizers Adding compost not only improves soil fertility, but also has a beneficial effect on its structure. Thanks to it, sandy soil retains moisture better, while clay soil becomes looser, which allows the soil to pass air and water.
The principle of “work” of a compost heap is very simple. Organic waste is placed in it and created for them. optimal conditions for decomposition, resulting in compost. In order for waste to decompose, it must be provided required quantity oxygen and moisture. Therefore, the design of the pit must provide ventilation for the mass placed in it. In addition, the compost is shaken up 3-4 times during the summer and regularly shed with water.
The compost substrate takes two years to mature under natural conditions. If you need to get it faster, special bacteria are added to significantly speed up the decomposition process. You need to know what can be put in a compost bin and what cannot. An approximate set is presented in the table.
Choosing a place for construction
The best place for arranging a compost heap - a shaded area near a fence or wall of an outbuilding. If the sun's rays fall directly on the pit, the decomposition process will slow down or stop completely. Another point that needs to be taken into account is the periodic appearance of a specific smell, so it is advisable to place the structure away from places where people appear.
The compost pit should be equipped taking into account the lifting height groundwater. The substrate should not come into contact with them. In addition, you need to take care of. So, if there is a pond nearby or, there should be a distance between them of at least 25-30 m. In this case, the slope of the soil should be such that after rains the water does not flow from the pit to the drinking source.
Setting up a compost bin
To obtain compost, two types of structures are used. This could be a pit or a special box. Let's look at both options in detail.
Construction of a compost pit
Before starting work, you should decide on its depth. You can make it small, then the contents of the heap will be easy to mix and the substrate will be ready faster. A deep hole is good because it completely hides the raw materials. At the same time, it is more difficult to establish ventilation here. The optimal depth is considered to be 40-50 cm. The pit is constructed in the following sequence:
- A hole of the required size is dug.
- A wooden box is being built. To do this, pegs are driven into the bottom at a distance of 20 cm from the walls in the corners, and boards are nailed onto them at some distance from each other.
- The resulting box is divided into two halves using a wooden board.
- A drainage layer 10-15 cm high is placed at the bottom of the structure. This can be bark or tree branches, straw, spruce branches, etc.
Now you can stack the waste. Only one half is filled with raw materials. This way you can regularly transfer the compost mixture from one part of the pit to another to allow for ventilation.
Setting up a compost bin
You can build such a structure with your own hands or purchase a ready-made one in a store. In the latter case, it will be a voluminous tall plastic box, which will only need to be installed in the right place.
For self-assembly wood is usually used. A frame is constructed from the bars, onto which planks are placed at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to ventilate the rotting mass.
Be sure to make one wall removable or provide a lid - this will make it convenient to mix the contents of the box if necessary. Alternatively, you can equip one of the walls with a tightly closing door. For ease of maintenance, such a box is installed on concrete base. You can simply compact the earth well and lay any solid material on it. Before filling the raw materials, drainage is placed at the bottom of the box, the same as in the compost pit.
To get good fertilizer, you need to fill a hole or box in compliance with certain rules. The most important thing is to alternate “brown” and “green” layers and make sure that their volume is approximately the same. Experienced gardeners understand dry waste by brown raw materials, fresh grass by green raw materials, etc. By alternating soft and hard masses, you will be able to avoid excessive compaction.
A properly equipped compost pit will provide excellent fertilizer and help you profitably dispose of organic waste.
The process of creating a compost pit is clearly shown in this video.
If you have a country house or personal plot, and you constantly buy manure or fertilizers, then this article is for you. In it I will tell you how to make a compost bin and turn waste that is usually thrown away into good fertilizer. Choose the most suitable type of structure and make it on your site. It will not take much time and will not take much effort, but it will give an excellent result.
I'll talk about four options you can implement:
- The simplest pit on the site;
- Wooden box;
- Brick building;
- Ready plastic container.
Main features of the structure location
First you need to figure out the location of the compost heap, since there are a number of requirements:
- There must be at least 30 meters to a source of drinking water or reservoir. In this case, the pit should not be located on a hill so that sediment from it does not flow down to the well;
- To bad smell does not bother you and your neighbors, it is better to place the structure in the far corner of the site. You should not place it near the road;
- The compost pit should not be placed in a sunny place. It should be in the shade or partial shade to improve the process of overheating the components.
Option 1 - the simplest pit
Let's figure out how to properly make a compost pit in the country:
- To begin with, select appropriate place taking into account the above requirements. Then a hole is dug 50-60 centimeters deep, 1 meter wide and 3-5 meters long. You can also make a smaller version if you have little organic waste;
- Then the walls are reinforced with old slate or roofing felt. You can leave them like that, but over time they will begin to crumble, and a lot nutrients will go around the perimeter. The old slate is simply placed around the perimeter, so that it holds, you can drive a couple of pegs from the inside. The sides can be made 30-50 cm above the soil level to increase the capacity of the pit;
- You can also use other available materials: pieces of tin, plywood, etc. It is important to make a container so that everything that will be folded does not fall apart;
- The finished structure can be filled with waste. It is best to lay a 15-20 cm thick layer of branches or straw at the bottom for drainage, and then layer by layer with compost materials. The optimal installation scheme is shown in the figure below.
Option 2 – wooden box
A more practical type of design. Manufacturing options can be very different, I will tell you about the simplest of them.
Instructions for doing the work yourself look like this:
- To begin with, you should find a place according to the recommendations indicated above. After this, you need to decide on the design of the box. Since compost takes 2 years to mature, a reasonable solution would be to build 2, or better yet 3 sections. Its length can be 3-5 m depending on the number of compartments;
- A design drawing is created. There is no need for accuracy, the main thing is to indicate the width and length. As for the height, it should not be more than a meter. But if you make a hinged door or put boards on one side in grooves, then you can make the structure higher;
- Making a compost pit with your own hands is simple and quick. The bars are placed in the corners. You can assemble the structure separately, or you can dig the elements into the ground, this will make the work even easier. After this, boards are packed between the side walls to the height you need;
- The upper part is made in the form of doors to open them if necessary. The front walls are clogged to half the height. Next, doors are made, which are attached to the curtains and secured with latches. There are no special requirements here, do as you please, the cracks are not scary, this will allow air to penetrate into the container and accelerate the maturation of the compost;
- Lastly, the structure is treated with an antiseptic inside and out, and then painted. A recess of 40-50 cm is made inside, this increases the capacity of the structure and facilitates the penetration of earthworms, which are an important part of the fertilizer ripening process.
The three-section option allows you to obtain ready-made compost every year. One compartment is filled with fresh contents, the second is matured, and the third is used. Everything is very rational and competent.
Option 3 – brick construction
This type is highly reliable, but it will also be more difficult to build. The materials required for the work are listed in the table.
Let's figure out how to build a compost pit at the dacha with your own hands:
- First of all, you should dig a hole of the size you need. Its depth should be 50-60 cm, and its width from one to one and a half meters;
- Next, walls are built from bricks or blocks. They are raised to a height of up to 1 meter above the soil level, no more is needed, as it will be inconvenient for you to get the compost;
- If desired, you can make the walls at an angle to make access to the pit easier. A cover made of boards or mesh can be laid on top of the structure; there is not much difference.
You can make the front wall from boards that are inserted between two slats. This is convenient because, if necessary, you can quickly remove the partition and take out the compost.
Option 4 – ready-made structures
If you don’t have space on your site or want to solve the problem more simply, you can use ready-made compost containers. They are made of plastic and have a very a light weight. In addition, this material does not decompose and remains durable for many years.
- The volume of the structure may vary, choose the containers that suit you;
- To ensure that you always have fertilizers, you need to place 2-3 containers;
- An important advantage is the presence of an unloading hatch at the bottom, through which you can get the finished composition quickly and easily;
- The cost of the structures is 2-3 thousand rubles, which is not much. And if you take into account their durability, the benefits of such an acquisition become obvious.
Regardless of which option you implement, you need to remember a few basic rules for preparing high-quality compost.
First, let's look at what can be put in the pit:
- Weeds, fallen leaves, plant stems and;
- Wood waste, twigs, sawdust;
- Manure, peat;
- Paper waste;
- Leftover tea, coffee, food;
- Vegetables and fruits, including rotten ones.
As for restrictions, rubber, plastic, polyethylene and other non-degradable components should not be placed in the pit. Do not pour out liquids containing detergents and chemicals.
In order for the composition to rot as best as possible, it should be stirred periodically and the layers should be sprinkled with peat or manure. During the dry season, the contents of the pit must be watered periodically to prevent the components from drying out.
If you don’t want to wait 2 years, then you can use special preparations called bioactivators for compost. They quickly decompose organic waste and allow you to obtain high-quality fertilizer in just a couple of months.
For the bioactivator to work with maximum efficiency, the mass must be constantly stirred and poured with warm water.
Conclusion
Using the tips from the review, you can easily make a compost pit with minimal costs time and money. The video in this article will clearly show some of the points discussed above. If you have questions, write them in the comments below.
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