Steel roof. Steel roofing - the main types. Flat membrane roof

This is a light fireproof durable roof. Service life of a roof from galvanized steel - 25 - 30 years and more, from black - 18 - 25 years. After 10 years, galvanized steel sheets are usually painted with oil paint, then this operation is repeated every 2 to 3 years.
Roofing made of black steel requires systematic painting after 2 - 3 years.
The roof slope for steel roofing ranges from 18 to 30°; the steeper the slope, the more materials are required, but the longer the roof lasts, since water drains from it faster.
crate under a steel roof they are made of dry bars, slabs, boards, laid from the descent strictly on the same level with a gradual transition to the ridge.
With a paving lath, boards should be laid on the places of the transverse joints of the sheets (the joint should be in the middle of the board). In this case, the sheet will not bend and let water through even with a large snow or other load on it.
A continuous crate of boards or slabs with a width of 500 - 700 mm is usually arranged under the descent or grooves. It is more expensive than cobbled, but it better protects the steel roof from destruction.
Some developers believe that the roof rusts only from above. This is completely false. The lower side of the sheets is destroyed by various vapors penetrating through attic floor from the kitchen, dining room, living rooms. That is why the steel sheets removed from the roof in the space between the purlins are always rusty. A solid crate, absorbing vapors, protects the steel roof from destruction from the underside and lengthens its service life by 2-3 times, especially if the crate is additionally covered with glassine with an overlap of at least 10 cm or the seams between the boards are sealed with chalk putty, small sawdust and drying oils. It is best to paint the smeared seams of the crate 1-2 times with oil paint.
Preparation of steel sheets for coating is as follows. Standard sizes sheet of black or galvanized steel - 710 x 1420 mm. If the roof is without wall grooves, an average of 5.1 kg of roofing steel and 12-14 g of nails is required per 1 m2.
Galvanized steel can be used without preparation, and black steel must be dried by adding red lead or ocher to the drying oil. Drying oil is applied to the sheets with an ordinary rag, brush, etc. The sheets are laid on a workbench, covered with drying oil on both sides and placed on edge to dry under a canopy or in a barn. You can put sheet to sheet, but with the obligatory installation of wooden spacers between them.
The roofing sheets are covered with a very thin layer of lubricant, which protects them from rusting during transportation and storage. Before drying, it is recommended to remove this grease with a cloth soaked in gasoline, and then wipe the sheets with a dry cloth. If you remove the grease with a rag that has not been soaked in gasoline, then the thinnest film will remain on the sheets, preventing good adhesion of the paint to the steel surface.
So that the underside of the sheet laid on the crate does not rust, it is recommended to paint it with oil paint once (preferably two) after pro-oiling and preparing the sheets and dry it well.
If the continuous crate is covered with glassine, then the sheets (made of black steel and galvanized) are not varnished, but covered with oil-resin varnish No. 6, to which dry minium is added.
For profiled sheets of roofing steel, the edges are bent for a seam connection. Such a sheet is called a picture. It is used for general coverage. Pictures can consist of two sheets or more.
The following basic tools are required for laying a steel roof: two roofing hammers - a large one (handbrake) and a small one (hook), a mallet ( wooden hammer) and manual roofing shears. It is desirable to have large scissors, usually attached to a piece of wide thick board. In addition to the main tool, you also need a chisel, a punch, a square-shaped steel bar (mandrel) 1700 mm long, a piece of angle steel of the same length, a workbench made of thick boards at least 2 long and 1 m wide, laid on trestles. Tools for working with steel roofing are shown in Figure 173. Steel roofing can be laid different ways. The easiest way to cover - sheets of steel are nailed to the crate. You can also nail the bars to the crate, bend the edges of the sheets, lay the latter between the bars, bend the edges to the bars and nail them.

But most often, sheets of roofing steel are connected to each other with seam seams, which can be recumbent (going along the length of the slope) and standing (going along the height of the slope). There are single - simpler and less reliable seams - and double - more difficult to manufacture, but also more durable. With this method, the sheet is attached to the crate not with nails, but with the help of clamps - strips of roofing steel 150 - 180 long and 30 - 50 mm wide, one end of which is nailed to the crate with nails, the other is bent over a standing seam.
Ordinary coverage(Fig. 174) do so. Sheets of roofing steel are connected to each other with the help of recumbent and standing folds. Recumbent folds are made along the width of the sheet, and standing folds along its length. The prepared sheets are placed in recumbent folds either along the length of the slope, or parallel to the ridge. These folds must be made in such a way that water flowing down the roof does not linger on them. Standing folds, which give the roof rigidity, are located along the height of the slope, i.e., from the overhang to the ridge.

Pictures can be placed one at a time, but it is more convenient to work with blanks consisting of two or more sheets (Fig. 175).
When preparing a steel roof, on the side of the workbench to which the steel corner is nailed, a sheet is placed with its wide side, and so that its edge overhangs by 10 mm. Striking with a mallet at the corners of the sheet, they make the so-called beacon bends that prevent the sheet from moving. Then, at risk, the entire edge is folded over, the sheet is turned over so that the folded edge is on top, and it is bent with mallet blows to the sheet until a gap of 5 mm is formed. In the same way, the second edge of the sheet is folded, but in the opposite direction with respect to the first.
The edges for standing folds are folded along the long side of the sheet only after the lying folds are folded. The edges are bent on both sides at a right angle and in one direction. On the left side they are bent to a height of 20 - 25 mm, and on the right - by 40 - 50 mm, ensuring that they do not reach the recumbent folds by 100 mm. This prevents the folding of the bent recumbent folds and ensures the free engagement of individual paintings or blanks from them (Fig. 175, a).
When laying individual paintings, or blanks, the recumbent folds should be positioned so that the fold of the second painting is on top.
Having connected the folds, they are compacted (knocked down or flattened), as a result of which a lock is formed (Fig. 175, b). The preparation of sheets for the cornice overhang is shown in Figure 175, b.
With an ordinary coating, the blanks are lifted onto the roof and laid in rows from the ridge to the overhang. Then the overhang paintings are connected by a lock with the first ordinary covering paintings. When connecting to the lock, it is advisable to pre-lubricate the folds with putty. Seams can be sealed on the crate, but it is better when a steel strip 900 - 1000 mm long, 50 - 60 wide, 4 - 5 mm thick is placed under them. Having assembled a strip from the ridge to the overhang from the paintings (blanks) and compacted the folds, the previously bent ridges of the standing folds are raised at the joints of the paintings. Then the strip is laid in place, and so that it hangs over the cornice and the crate along the slope by 70 - 100 mm. After that, they take a pro-oiled or dyed clamp, bend a foot 20-30 mm long at one end at a right angle, put the clamp with the flat side to the standing fold, and with the foot to the crate and fasten it with a roofing nail, driving it in from above the paws. Clamps are located one from the other at a distance of 500 - 700 mm (Fig. 176). The clamp foot is subsequently closed with a roofing sheet (Fig. 176, a). Such fastening is quite simple, but has the disadvantage that both nails and roofing steel rust with it. In addition, if the crate is made of insufficiently dry material, then when it dries out, the nails can be easily removed and the roof rise (especially in windy weather). In this case, the nails must be hammered into the crate at a certain angle, and the hat must be painted over with thick oil paint, covered with putty or covered with a piece of cardboard painted on both sides. It is better when the clamp is attached to the crate not from above, but from the side, and the remaining end is rotated around the axis by 90 °. In this case, the plane of the clamp falls directly into the seam (Fig. 176.6).

The second strip is attached to the first so that its edge with a bent small edge adjoins the high edge of the first strip. It is desirable that the recumbent folds are not on the same level (one against the other), but are shifted by 15 mm. This provides an easier and more convenient bending of standing seams (ridges).
If the lying folds coincide, it is more difficult to bend the standing ones; in addition, thick spots are formed, which sometimes leads to tearing of the edges.
A properly laid second strip is tightly attached to the first. Then, at the installation sites of the clamp, high edges should be bent to low ones for a length of 100 - 150 mm. When fastening the strips, they must be pressed as tightly as possible to the crate so that the sheets do not rise and rattle in the wind.
Clamps are nailed near the second strip of the roof, located in relation to the previous ones in a checkerboard pattern, the third strip is laid and also fixed.
Clamps are also attached to the third strip, a fourth strip is attached to it, it is fixed, etc.
The edges of the standing seams are folded over after laying each strip, several or all strips. The last way preferable, since the entire crate closes at once.
They begin to close the folds from the ridge to the overhang, facing the ridge (this allows you to see the folded fold). Work is carried out in the sequence indicated in Figure 177.
First of all, the high edge is bent to the low one. To do this, from the side of the small edge, at the same level with it, a large hammer is placed flat with the left hand. Smaller hammer in right hand the high edge is bent at a right angle over the low one. Having thus bent the comb to a length of 1 m, it is finally bent and compacted. To do this, you need to return to the beginning of the formed ridge, put the side of the large hammer on the side of the high edge, and strike the high one with small ones, completely bending it onto the small edge and compacting it. In this sequence, the entire standing fold is folded. Instead of a large hammer, a bar is usually used - a lapel (Fig. 178), which can be easily made by yourself.

When bending a large edge, it is necessary to ensure that the standing folds are straight, of the same height and well sealed (for this, two or three blows are usually applied to the same place).
The ridge is drawn up after the entire roof is laid. First of all, arrange a standing fold. To do this, the excess roof over the ridge is cut with hand scissors, but so that a small edge can be bent on one side of the slope, and a large one on the other. The fold is done as usual. The standing folds (ridges) of the slopes are preliminarily, at a distance of 100 mm from the ridge, bent to the formwork, i.e., make them recumbent. This allows you to bend the standing seams on the ridge (Fig. 179).
double folds- the most reliable. There are recumbent and standing double folds.
The first of them is done as follows. First of all, the edges of the sheets are folded twice. Then the sheets are connected by pushing the bent edges of one sheet into the edges of the other, and they are compacted (Fig. 180). Such folds will never disperse; if they are smeared with putty, then they do not let water through at all.

Standing double folds (Fig. 181) do this. On one side of the first sheet, a low edge (33 mm high) is bent, and on the other, a high edge (45 mm). The high edge is folded over to the low one and compacted. The resulting standing fold (comb) is folded again, bringing its total height to 26 mm. The bent comb is compacted again.
Holes at chimneys close up with collars made of galvanized or black roofing steel (see Fig. 166).

When covering the roof with steel sheets (as well as repairing and painting it), it is necessary to wear soft shoes - felted or with soft rubber soles. Such shoes do not slip on the roof and do not harm it. Shoes with leather soles not only slide on the sheets, but also scratch the paint on them, which accelerates the rusting of the metal in such places. During work, you should be tied with a strong rope to the strong parts of the roof (mainly to the rafters). For convenience, it is recommended to use portable ladders - ladders. At one end of such a ladder, hooks are attached, with which it is hooked to the crate.
Care, repair and painting of a steel roof. steel roof and the oil paint applied to it expands unequally from the heat of the sun. The metal expands more strongly, so after a while it breaks the outdated paint that has lost its elasticity. Moisture gets into the cracks formed in the paint, and the steel begins to rust. Such places should be immediately cleaned with a soft steel brush, remove dust and paint over 1-2 times with oil paint.
Systematically with a soft broom, dust and dirt that trap moisture should be removed from the roof.
Roof repair in that order. Small rusted (thin) places on the roof can be sealed with patches of burlap or some kind of dense fabric. Determine the rusted places like this. On a sunny day, two people inspect the roof cleaned of dirt and dust. One of them walks around the attic with a stick, and the second with chalk in his hand - along the roof. The one in the attic, having found a rusted place, knocks on it with a stick, and the one on the roof circles it with chalk. All marked places are cleaned with a steel brush, dust is removed and painted over with paint that dries for 2-3 days. Patches of the required size are cut from burlap or dense fabric, thickly diluted paint is prepared, patches are placed in it for 1-2 hours. Then the excess paint is squeezed out, patches are placed on the repaired area, carefully smoothed (especially the edges) and allowed to dry. Then they are dyed.
Patches can be pasted in another way. The repaired area is painted over with thickly diluted paint, a dry patch is placed on it, carefully smoothed with a brush or spatula and left to dry. However, the first option provides a better repair.
Small holes in the ridges can be covered with ordinary putty or also sealed with a patch.
Painting an old roof in that order. Before painting, the roof is cleaned of adhering dust and dirt, swept over with a soft broom: fresh paint applied to an uncleaned roof does not adhere well to the previously applied one.
Descent of the roof is recommended to be painted in one layer after a year, in two layers - after 2 years. The fact is that on the slopes moisture lingers longer and the paint quickly becomes unusable. Life time oil paints on natural drying oil: ocher and mummy - 3 years, red lead - 5 years, verdigris - 10 years.
After a good drying of the glued patches, it is recommended to cover the roof again with a soft broom or a hair brush. The prepared paint is used to paint the entire roof (along with patches). The paint should be applied in as thin layers as possible, carefully rubbing it in. Usually the paint is applied in two or three layers. First, the descent is painted, and then the entire roof - from the ridge to the descents. During operation, the brush is held so that the hair is perpendicular to the surface. You need to press the brush in the same way, and periodically rotate it in your hands (so that the hair is erased evenly).
You can paint the roof with various paints, but the most widespread is the iron red lead.
The consumption of paints, depending on their type, is given in table 24.

Table 24

The need for materials for painting 10 m 2 of the roof, g

The paint is prepared like this. Drying oil is added to the thickly grated mass, and everything is well mixed until smooth (the clots are carefully rubbed). Then it is recommended to strain the paint on a fine sieve. White is pre-mixed with drying oil until completely homogeneous. If white is added to a liquid paint of a different color, then the mixture must be thoroughly mixed to a completely uniform color.
So that during operation the pigment does not sit on the bottom of the dish, the paint should be mixed periodically.

Modern building technology offer us a variety of roofing materials, each of which has its own pros and cons. Therefore, the question of which material is better is practically unresolved. Many prefer natural ceramic tiles or soft bituminous materials, but traditional steel roofing is no worse, and in many cases even better.

This roofing material can amaze with its diversity. It can be simple smooth sheets connected by special attractive seams - folds, but there are more interesting options in the form of imitation tiles, with embossing.

For the manufacture of such sheets, galvanized steel is used, which is often coated with an additional layer of polymer of various shades.

Such sheets are very reliable, resistant to corrosion, various external influences.

The sheets themselves, they are also called paintings, are made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, which is enough for reliable protection roofs. For roofs with a large area, rolled steel can be used, which greatly speeds up the work, but for a small cottage, it is enough to purchase ready-made and cut sheets.

Fastening is carried out with clamps, that is, steel hook locks, all connections are made in the form of curved seams, that is, folds that have a different appearance. Such folds can be single or double, flat recumbent or standing comb. It all depends on the junction of the sheets, the need for waterproofing. When working, it is recommended to additionally process the folds silicone sealants for metal.

The main types of steel roofs

Roofing cake for a metal roof: a - sheets of roofing steel; b - crate; c - counter-lattice; g - waterproofing; d - insulation; e - vapor barrier; g - clamps; h - fold; and - ridge bar.

Today, steel sheet roofing can be made from the most various materials, usually covered with a layer of galvanization or polymer paints.

1. Decking. These are profiled steel sheets used to cover the roofs of most any buildings. This type of coverage is considered one of the most inexpensive.
2. Metal tile. The metal coating, which mimics the appearance of a real tile, is distinguished by its excellent appearance, easy to fit with your own hands. The sheets are very light, durable, their installation is carried out in the shortest possible time.
3. . These are galvanized metal sheets that are connected by folds. This type of seam is today considered the most reliable and airtight, but for laying such a roof, you must have a special tool for bending the seams and some tin work skills. Such a roof today is one of the most attractive, although its installation differs in some features.

Tools and materials for work

For laying steel roofing you must first perform the following work:

1. Checking the angles of the slope, the roof cannot have a slope less than 16 and more than 30 degrees.
2. Checking the strength of the crate, the step of installing the bars, or the strength of fastening OSB sheets. This is necessary so that the coating does not sag during operation.
3. Thorough inspection of all steel sheets, which should not be bubbles, dents, cracks or other damage.

Tools for repair and installation metal roofing: (scriber, square, compass, steel ruler, caliper, hand scissors, chair scissors, center punch, punch, steel brush, folding saw, hook-hammer, mallet, pliers, draft, crimp, hand-hammer, roofing chisel, folding, anvil).

After that, we begin to prepare the tool that will be needed during work:

• roofing nails (4x50 mm), which have a special cap for attaching to the crate;
• nails for attaching crutches and hooks (4x100 mm);
• special hooks for fixing gutters, they are usually made of steel pieces 420 mm long and 20 mm wide, their thickness should be 5 mm;
• crutches for cornice overhangs (450*25*5 mm). They are used to keep the overhangs in place;
• steel picture clamps;
• folding machine. For roofing small house you can use a manual machine, which allows you to quickly and accurately process all the seams.

Stages of installation work

Work begins with the installation of crutches along the entire cornice overhang in increments of 70 cm. The indent from the edge should be from 150 mm. All crutches are nailed to the batten, they will be used to support the skin paintings. In order for all the crutches to stand evenly, for a start they are placed along the edges of the eaves, then a special cord is pulled, and if necessary, the individual elements are aligned.

Now you need to prepare for the installation of the picture (separate sheets of steel sheathing). This can be done with various tools, but it is best with special folding machines. The types of folds differ depending on the place of laying: on the short side they make recumbent folds, on the long side - standing (ridge) folds. This allows for normal water runoff from the roof surface.

All seam connections can be single or double. In places where water accumulates the most (i.e. in gutters, grooves, etc.), only a double connection should be used.

Finished sheets are attached to the base (sheathing and crutches) with the help of clamps, nailed to the timber at one end, and into the standing fold with the other. All clamps must be fastened at the ends of each sheet, while during installation, each sheet must be shifted by 50-60 mm so that the recumbent folds are spread apart. The ridge folds are also displaced.

All excess elements after laying are cut off with special scissors for metal, the cuts are processed using a primer. Folds are recommended to be lubricated with metal sealants.

When installing a steel roof, the following features must be observed:

for the main roof plane, steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm or more can be used, while the minimum slope can be from 16 to 30 °;

a diffusion membrane must be laid under the roofing material to ensure proper ventilation of the under-roof space (this is a prerequisite when using such materials);

during installation, through fastening of individual sheets should not be allowed, all clamps are wound only in the fold. In this case, the width of the sheets should not be more than 500-600 mm. If you purchased a coating with dimensions of 1000 * 2000 or 1250 * 2500, then it should first be cut with metal shears, a special guillotine. It is impossible to use the grinder categorically!

The clamps are nailed to the base in increments of up to 500 mm, they are inserted into the side locks, after which they are wrapped together with the folds. You can do this with a hammer, but experts recommend using folding machines (both manual and automatic).

Repair work: what is the specifics?

Repair work for a steel seam roof, they differ in their characteristics, since it is rather problematic to disassemble a separate section of it, this is a laborious, lengthy process, since the sheets must be left in a whole state. But there is an alternative that allows you to perform high-quality quick repairs.

It consists in the fact that small damages up to 5 mm are sealed with a sealant, for example, silicone or acrylic, special red lead grease. Such compositions are applied with a spatula in a rather thick layer of up to 8 mm. A special adhesive tape produced on a bitumen basis has also proved to be excellent. The place of repair after work is sanded, painted with paints intended for this.

Lightning protection device for steel roof

When installing steel roofs, it is necessary to ensure proper lightning protection, which consists of wire (pin) lightning rods. The roofing material itself acts as such a lightning rod, but all non-metallic incoming elements must be securely connected to the roof, that is, it is necessary to ensure proper contact over the entire surface of the roof, which guarantees safety.

Today, steel roofs are becoming popular again, which is due to many of their advantages, including strength, durability, and attractive appearance. Manufacturers offer us the most different kinds such. It can be metal tiles, profiled sheets, but one of the most popular options that are suitable for almost any home is a seam steel roof.

Its installation is associated with some features of fastening the sheets to each other, but this is precisely the condition for increased reliability and tightness. The installation itself can be done by a couple of people, but for this you need to purchase a special tool for folds (either automatic or conventional manual is suitable here). A couple of days, and the new roof is ready!

"Roofing iron" is a simplified name for a category of materials that attract light weight, low and relatively low cost. Among the advantages are the large dimensions of the elements, which facilitates installation and increases the pace of roofing work. A very convincing argument is fire resistance and tightness, justified by the complete absence or minimum number of holes for fasteners. In the list of advantages, it is not without reason that the ease of installation “flaunts”, thanks to which the metal roof over the country bathhouse can be built by its owner with his own hands.

Types of metal roofing

Over the centuries of the use of metal as roofing, many technological variations have been created. Instead of the simplest sheet iron, aluminum or copper, it is now possible to use original “designers” produced at factories with a full set of fasteners, additional parts and elements for adjoining devices.

The conditional classification of roofing iron divides all currently existing types of metal roofing into the following groups:

• cold-rolled, thin-sheet or rolled, black or galvanized steel, used for the construction of budget seam roofs;
• fully prepared for laying, attracting with an abundance of modifications different color and forms of elements, and corrugated board with similar priorities;
• non-ferrous metals, which group includes copper, titanium-zinc alloy and aluminum coatings.

Let's set aside the advantages of convenient and technological roofing sets made of metal tiles and corrugated sheets due to the high cost. For the same reason, let's temporarily forget about non-ferrous metals. Consider the most economical independent device of a metal roof, for the implementation of which steel sheets with a strip length of 2.50 m and a corresponding width of 1.25 m are required.

It is recommended to buy steel for roofing with double-sided galvanization. It is more expensive than the “black” non-zinc coated counterpart, but the money invested in the material is returned due to rare maintenance and optimized wear resistance. According to the hot-dip galvanizing method, cold-rolled material is completely immersed in containers with molten zinc, as a result of which a dense protective layer evenly settles on its surface.

The values ​​​​of the thickness of the material are dictated by the snip: metal roofing (SNiP II-26-76), in accordance with the requirements of building codes, is constructed from a thin-sheet product of the rolling industry. For roofs, steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm is bought. It will be easier to work with the thinnest sheets, it is easier to bend them to form joints. But if the owner is going to make additional parts and drainage elements from the same material, a thickness of 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm is recommended.

Note. Building regulations do not prohibit, but do not recommend distorting the shape of galvanized sheets, as a result of which the solidity of the zinc coating may be disturbed. According to the requirements of SNiP number 3.03.01-87, a metal tool cannot be placed on a galvanized surface without a wooden lining during operation. Damage to the zinc protection will cause loss of performance.

Independent device and installation

The most common and economical type of laying metal sheets on the roof is called seam technology. The name and principle of construction is based on the method of connecting elements with repeatedly curved edges, forming longitudinal and transverse seams - folds.

• Cross seam joints are used if the horizontal slope size exceeds the standard steel sheet length of 2.5 m. They are single and double, called horizontal, because they have the same direction, and recumbent, because they are bent in the direction of water flow from the roof so as not to create barriers for spontaneous runoff of precipitation.

• Longitudinal seams connect the elements of the roofing along an imaginary vertical slope, that is, along the side line of the sheet. They are not bent, as they do not interfere with the flow, therefore they are called standing. By analogy with the previous connections, they can be both double and single. Not a single installation of a metal roof using seam technology is complete without horizontal standing joints.

Horizontal connections, especially if they are single, reduce the ability of the structure to resist atmospheric negativity. If possible, it is desirable to exclude them. Standing double folds are recognized as the most reliable and practically airtight. You can form a seam, either with a hammer and a wooden lapel, or with the help of special electromechanical machines for seaming or manual comb benders.

The specifics of the construction of the seam roof

The main element of it is the picture. This is a part assembled from two adjacent steel strips with bent edges necessary for subsequent connection. Pictures are collected on the ground. To assemble them, it is desirable to make a special workbench with a length equal to the length of the connected parts of the picture.

To splice the paintings and attach the extreme canvases to the crate, you will need home-made clamps - strips cut from the same steel with side sizes of 3 and 15 cm. They are fixed every 0.5 m next to the vertical seam line. Considering this fact, from the scraps of the steel sheet, you need to make required amount fasteners.

Attention. Galvanized steel parts are cut with scissors. The grinder leaves an uneven jagged edge and burns out the protective coating.

Collected in a safe environment, the pictures with the edges prepared for joining are lifted up, but first the base is prepared for their installation.

The device of the truss system and lathing

Construction rules truss system under a metal roof are no different from the technologies for building frames for other roofs. Only in view of the lightness of the material, it is not necessary to part with the location of the rafters. However, given the ability of the metal to sag under the weight of human weight, the crate beam is set at a frequency of 20 cm. This step will prevent damage to the coating, since the leg of a person climbing onto the roof for repair or maintenance will invariably rest on the crate.

According to building regulations minimum slope metal roof slopes 14º, maximum value 30º. For sloping roofs, the mounting step of the laths will have to be reduced, it is even better to make a continuous coating of edged boards.

If the roof is insulated and waterproofing is laid on top of the lathing, a counter-lattice of thin laths will be required to form a ventilation gap between the metal coating and insulating layer. Ventilation on both sides roofing material there will be an equivalent temperature, which means that there will be no metal-destroying condensate and icicles on the eaves.

The cornice overhang is made of 3 or 4 cohesive boards. The skate is formed by laying boards on both sides, converging at a single point.

Assembly of seam roof elements

Gather metal fence roofs begin with the installation of special crutches installed along the cornice overhang every 70 cm. Initially, two crutches are nailed along the edges, a cord is pulled between them to align the remaining parts. Crutches can be replaced by a metal corner nailed along the base of the overhang with a side of 4-6 cm.

Attention. To go over the ridge, a 3 cm edge must be left on one side, and 6 cm on the other.

• The paintings, made up of two metal strips, are transported by a car lift to a storage place specially organized for them at the top.
• First of all, clamps are fastened with self-tapping screws along the line of the second picture, half a meter later. You need to position the clamp so that the point of its fixation is blocked by the picture laid on top.
• Then the first picture is installed, the side line of which coincides with the pediment line. The first element is fastened along the pediment line through with self-tapping screws.

Attention. Ordinary paintings have edges of different heights, usually one is 5 cm, the second is 2.5 cm. The first strip has both edges 2.5 cm.

All elements of the seam roof are mounted in a similar way: first, the clamps for the next strip, then mounting it itself and connecting it to the previous strip. The fold is folded together with homemade fastening strips. Thanks to the installation of clamps, simultaneous fastening is carried out both to the crate and to neighboring elements. Experienced roofers advise to strengthen the seams with silicone sealant.

Advice. To prevent the unbending of home-made clamps, you can supplement the point of their location in the horizontal seam with riveting.

• Upon completion of the splicing of the seams, the joints must be sealed with a hammer and a strip of metal.
• Then they bend and fasten the smaller edge on the ridge, put it on top and fasten the large ridge edge.

If the galvanized surface is not suitable for aesthetic reasons, it can be primed with pigmented drying oil and then painted.

Lightning Protection

There is an opinion that a metal roof does not need a protection device, because it is a natural lightning rod. However, a direct lightning strike into it can still cause a fire due to overheating of the metal mounted on a wooden crate. If the seams between the elements of the coating are sufficiently reliable, lightning protection of the metal roof is carried out by connecting it through the down conductor to the grounding system. If there is an electrical connection between the elements of the coating, it is possible to do without pin and torso lightning rods.

The construction of a metal roof is the simplest and most economical way to equip a country bath. If all stages are carried out in accordance with technological rules, the roof will last more than 20 years without requiring alterations and repairs. It is important to take into account the features of the metal coating and do not forget about the installation rules.

In modern construction, metal roof has become more relevant than ever. Next, we will talk about the device of this type of roof and its main properties.

As with any stage of construction, metal roof equipment accompanied by financial costs and takes a lot of time. Therefore, at the design stage, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with technological process and materials used during the construction of a metal roof. To calculate the number of steps of stairs to the roof, use the online calculator for calculating the steps of stairs.

For recent years The most commonly used material during the construction of roof structures is a metal sheet. This is facilitated by a wide range of sheet metal on the market, and the relative ease of assembly of the roof during the installation work.

Long service life and higher strength compared to other types of roofs also contribute to the increase in the popularity of this type of roof. Compared to roof coverings that were used until recently, metal tile has a number of advantages:

• Long service life without additional investments;
• No need for additional roof maintenance work;
• High mechanical strength, and as a result, excellent performance in terms of resistance to gusts of wind, rain, snow, icing;
• Ease of installation;
• Low flammability;
• High economic efficiency.

One of the most effective and at the same time simple option is an shed metal roof.

Also widely used metal roofs contributes to a wide range of various tones of metal tiles, which is limited almost only by the taste of the customer material.

The texture of this material is suitable for any shade of color, so your building will look original throughout long period and recognizable from anywhere in the landscape. After all, the roof affects the perception of the house as a whole, while diversity metal roof colors will bring to life the most daring projects.

It is worth noting that although metal roofs a little more expensive during construction compared to classic materials, but they more than pay off during operation. After all, repair of this type of roof is necessary only because of mechanical damage, which happens quite rarely.

So a classic slate roof will require overhaul in 15-20 years, and the metal one will be used for at least 60 years.

As in any business, during the construction roofs made of metal it is necessary to use the services of qualified builders who guarantee the quality of the work.

Due to the high popularity of this type of roofing, it will not be difficult to find a good contractor who will not only perform the work with high quality, but also help you choose the right one. quality materials. When choosing a contractor, you should ask him to show examples of work already completed and interview their customers for the integrity and reliability of these specialists.

You should not grab the first team you find, because there are probably specialists on the market who will perform quality work at a lower price.

Properties of a metal roof.

Of the positive qualities of metal tiles as a roofing material it is worth noting the following:

1. The long service life of the roof is from 30 to 50 years, which is much longer than that of classical roofing materials, the service life of which is up to 20 years. Often known metal tile manufacturers They offer a 50 year warranty on their products. And if during the warranty period there is a premature failure of the roofing material, the manufacturing company at its own expense will warranty repair roofs. It is also worth noting that a metal roof can be built directly on top of the old coating, which is guaranteed to significantly reduce the customer's costs due to the lack of costs for dismantling old roof structures.

2. High resistance to various colonies of mold and fungus allows you to successfully operate in various climatic zones for a long period at no additional cost.

3. The low combustibility of metal tiles will prevent the ignition of the roof and, as a result, significantly reduce the likelihood of a fire in the building.

4. Significant mechanical strength causes a high degree of resistance to various natural phenomena, such as strong wind, hail, squall, earthquake, severe frost.

5. Due to the presence of a wide range metal roof covering, which imitates various textured surfaces, such as pebbles, wood, shingles, tiles, etc., opens up a wide scope for various design solutions, which is important during the construction of a modern building. It is envisaged both to paint the already assembled roof structure, and to choose a metal coating pre-painted in the desired color.

6. Due to the glossy surface, metal roof significantly less exposed to direct sunlight, which reduces the cost of cooling the roof.

7. Because basically metal roof covering is made from recycled materials (scrap metal), this material is environmentally friendly, which is not unimportant for environmental protection.

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In the construction market today you can find many different materials that differ from each other in price. It is simply impossible to finally answer the question of which roofing material is the best, since under certain conditions one should proceed from certain advantages and disadvantages. Many homeowners prefer bituminous materials or ceramic roofing, but steel is just as good, and sometimes even a much better solution.

Steel roofing sheet is striking in its diversity. It can take the form of smooth sheets, which are connected by seams, folds, but also occurs in the form of tiles. To create such a material, galvanized steel is used, additionally coated with a layer of polymer. Due to this, roofing sheet steel copes well with corrosion and external factors.

Such sheets of metal are called paintings. A roofing steel thickness of 0.5 mm or more is sufficient to provide high quality home protection. For roofs with a large area of ​​​​planes, rolled steel is used, which allows you to speed up the laying process. For a small country house it is much more convenient to buy ready-made, cut sheets.

Fastening is carried out with clamps. All connections have the form of folds, that is, curved seams. They can be single or double, standing comb or flat recumbent. The specific choice depends on the junction of the paintings and the need for waterproofing. Folds are recommended to be additionally treated with silicone sealant.

Steel roof - main types

To date, such a roof can be made of various materials:

Tools and materials for work

The steel roof is laid after certain preparatory procedures have been completed. Necessary:

• check the angles of the slopes, since the roof should have a slope of no more than 30 degrees and at least 16;
• check the strength of the crate, the step of the bars and the reliability of the fasteners. This procedure is especially important, since poor-quality lathing can lead to roof deflection;
• carefully check all steel sheets for dents, cracks, bubbles and other damage.

Then the preparation of the tools that will be needed for roofing begins:

• roofing nails 4 * 50 mm with a special cap for fastening to the crate;
• nails 4x100 mm for fixing hooks and crutches;
• special hooks designed for fixing gutters. Usually they are made from steel scraps 2 cm wide and 42 cm long;
• crutches for cornice overhangs. They are used to fix overhangs (more details: "");
• picture clips;
• machine for bending seam seams (also exists). For laying the roof of a small house, you can get by with a manual machine.

Stages of installation work

Work begins with the installation of crutches along the entire eaves. The indent from the edge is 150 cm, the laying step is 70 cm. All crutches are nailed to the crate. They are needed to support the paintings. So that the crutches do not move, they are first placed along the edges of the eaves. After that, a cord is stretched between them, along which the hotel elements are aligned.

Next, move on to the installation of paintings. This can be done using a variety of tools, but it is best to use a folding machine. The types of fold are distinguished depending on the place of installation: recumbent folds are made along the short side, standing folds along the long side. This allows for good drainage of water from the roof surface.

Roofing sheet steel GOST provides for fastening with folds, both single and double. In places of greatest accumulation of water, only double connections are used.

The finished sheets are attached to the base with the help of clamps, which are nailed with one end to the timber, and the other end into the fold. All clamps are attached at the ends of each sheet. In this case, each sheet is shifted by 5-6 cm so as to separate the recumbent folds on the sides. In an illogical way, the ridge folds are also displaced.

After laying, all excess elements are cut off with scissors for metal. The resulting sections are treated with a primer. The folds, to give them greater tightness, are treated with silicone sealant.

Installation of a steel roof should be accompanied by the following features:

Repair work: what is the specifics?

Repair work on such a roof has a number of features. The fact is that it is very problematic to disassemble a separate section of the roof, the procedure itself is laborious and time consuming. But there is an alternative approach that allows you to quickly complete repairs at a very high level.

Small damages up to 5 mm in size are sealed with sealant (acrylic or silicone) or special red lead grease. Such compositions are applied with a spatula with a layer up to 8 mm thick. In addition, good results are shown by the use of bitumen-based adhesive tape. After repair, the work site is sanded and painted with special paints.

In most cases, such roofs do not need frequent repairs. Damage is often caused by extreme loads or mechanical impacts. For example, the accumulation of snow, above the calculated amount or the fall of a tree branch. Also, in case of careless behavior with the material and damage to the protective polymer layer, the metal begins to corrode, which leads to rusting and the appearance of holes in the roof. Therefore, it is recommended to handle the material very carefully during installation. In addition, regular inspections should be carried out for the appearance of rust spots and accumulations of snow or fallen leaves.

Metal roof device: installation and installation ").