Finishing the bath inside: photos, stages of installation work and the choice of materials. Interior decoration of the bath: options, choice of style and materials based on the type Selection of materials for decoration

The decoration of the bath in many respects differs from that of residential premises both in terms of the materials used and in technology. The most important thing you need to know when starting to finish the bath inside - you can’t build a turnkey bath, and then think about how to finish it. The finishing of the bath is carried out in combination with insulation and insulation, and as for the floor, it is also part of the work on its installation. The reason is the special conditions of the microclimate of the bath and the stay of people in it.

Bath atmosphere

The cornerstones of insulation - the vapor barrier is applied on the wetter side, and the insulation on the cold side. In the bath, both of them regularly find themselves inside, just, so to speak, in working mode, during washing. Does that mean you need to insulate from the inside? But in winter, the bathhouse periodically completely dries up, and how then to prevent dampness of building structures?

The second point is the bath spirit. In the old days, not everyone could afford to build a “primordial” bath, but in our time it is available to a few. The bath is not breathing - just a heat chamber and the health benefits of it, to put it mildly, are doubtful. So how then can you still steam in a structure made of available materials, which can be built and equipped on your own?

Finally, the main rooms of the bath are the washing room and the steam room.. In them, in addition to sharp jumps in temperature and humidity, there is always an abundant spill of water on the floor and walls. How to avoid unsanitary conditions in such conditions? All these tasks are taken over by the interior decoration of the bath. Of course, at the same time, it must also perform its usual functions, decorative and ergonomic.

What else to trim?

Large public baths, starting from Ancient Rome, got off and now often get off with mineral materials - stone, tile. For their small bathhouse, they are definitely not suitable: with a decrease in the size of the building per unit of its volume, there is an increasing area of ​​​​outer surfaces, and with it heat loss. Then, in order to make a stone bath breathe, it needs high, from 4-5 m, ceilings and well-designed ventilation and hot air supply systems; The arrangement of Roman thermae still fascinates engineers and builders.

Have you been to the hammam? How much is there in height from the heels of the person standing in a pair to the lowest point of the ceiling? If less than 4.2 m, then what kind of equipment is hidden in technical rooms? How much does it cost, consume fuel and electricity? In the conditions of a private economy, the interior decoration of the bath without an alternative should be wooden. This makes it difficult for her to achieve proper hygiene, but another way to put a healthy bath with dimensions in terms of less than approx. 12x16 m no.

What to strive for?

The structure of the bath can be brick, foam and gas blocks, wooden beam, frame or log; such exotics as, say, an earthen bath, we do not touch. Except for one of these cases (see below), the structure of the bathhouse is not capable of breathing, as a bathhouse should, in itself. The builders of baths for the final finishing of the turnkey 4x6 m box take about ... 500 thousand rubles, and the materials account for no more than 20-25% of this amount! It follows that finishing the bath with your own hands is justified at least economically. Now let's summarize what we should get technically:

1. When heated to 70-90 degrees, the finish of the bath should not exude fumes harmful to health, but should keep its shape and mechanical characteristics;
2. Injury hazard (burns, slipperiness, scratches / splinters) from the finishing of the bath should be excluded;
3. The interior decoration of the bath should quickly absorb and retain heat well, gradually releasing it into the room after heating;
4. The properties of the finish must be maintained for a long time under the influence of cyclic thermal shocks and 100% humidity;
5. The finish of the bath should be pleasing to the eye and to the touch with steamed skin.

About burns

Burns are the most serious injury risk factor in baths. The degree of damage to body tissues during a thermal burn depends primarily on the thermal energy transferred to them, and that depends on the ratio of thermal conductivity and heat capacity of a hot object. The combination of these parameters in a tree is favorable from the point of view of safety: a piece of wood heated to 90-120 degrees can be taken by hand and shifted from place to place without suffering any serious damage. A stone, or, say, a tile, under the same conditions, will cause at least redness of the skin, followed by ulceration, and a blister will immediately jump up from the metal. Therefore, metal in baths should be avoided in every possible way, and metal fasteners should be placed so that it is not accessible to touch.

bath like a bath

The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a continuous finish: a bathhouse made of a wild log, matched to the size, breathes perfectly on its own thanks, first of all, to the open ends of the logs - the wood absorbs and gives off water vapor through the fibers several times faster than across the layers, but warms up from thermal radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bath, the desired ratio of temperature and humidity is maintained in a wide range of heating intensity.

The original Russian bath is of 3 types - vigorous, made of oak, condo, most often made of pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if there is a timber linden forest for sale, it is prohibitively expensive. A full-fledged replacement for it in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years - poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone's health; It is definitely not recommended for women and children.

A pine bath without interior decoration will be useful and rather spirited if you cut it from an ordinary business dry-wood pine. Expensive, but unusually resistant to moisture, rot and pests, tar pine goes to 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be “burned”, the remnants of volatile substances should be driven out of the logs, and the heavy fractions of resins should be forced to be bituminized. To do this, in the summer, in dry, hot weather, in the new bathhouse in the morning, open all doors, entrance and interior doors, windows, upper air vents (see below) and empty all containers, including the sewage pit, if it is under the floor. Then they heat the stove at maximum until dinner; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly something is wrong in the fire-prevention cutting of the pipe (also see below). After lunch, the firebox is stopped, the bath is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. Suddenly the weather turned bad - it's okay, a break won't hurt.

However, use the Russian log sauna without additional finishing is possible only if the log house is properly caulked. Since ancient times, baths were caulked with moss, but now the best option is jute. During the construction process, the crowns are caulked into a stretch strip (see the figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the log house, the slots are hammered into the set with a jute rope (upper left photo in the figure above). If the bath is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should be, see below, and properly burned, only decorative functions remain behind its decoration; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and not close the outer and inner ends of the logs.

About finishing the sauna

The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forest suitable for building a bathhouse. Abundant spruce there in this case is not the best option: it is difficult and long to drive resin out of its whole array. Therefore, the Finns initially entrusted the health-improving functions of the bath to its less costly inner lining: the traditional finish of the sauna is a plank upright made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.

Avid sauna lovers from Finns, having taken a steam bath in their own and in a real Russian bath, say: yours is better. Not by much, but it still feels better. However, the sauna is much simpler, cheaper, can be made compact even in the corner of a city apartment and even mobile, which determined its wide distribution. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get a sauna, then when finishing according to the methods described below, take seasoned air-dry spruce for sheathing.

Baths thanks to finishing

So, a properly equipped bath from any other material, except for a solid log, should breathe like a bath thanks mainly to the decoration of the walls. It is more necessary for the ceiling to stop heat loss so that the air under it does not become oversaturated with moisture, but, having cooled down a little, immediately stacks down to the floor. The floor gets the most: it must be safe, i.e. not slippery, hygienic, warm, especially resistant to rot, mold, pests, ensure the drainage of spilled water and, at the same time, do not interfere with the ventilation of the underground, otherwise the entire structure will become damp. And the base of the bath, as you know, is strongly not recommended to be made above 200 mm.

Note: finishing work in the bath can only be started after shrinkage of the foundation and the box on it. The timing of technical breaks for shrinkage depends on the design of the foundation and the structure of the bath.

From simple to complex, you need to learn, but in practice, for complete success, you need to deal with the most difficult cases first. Therefore, let's go, firstly, as is customary in construction, from the bottom up, from the floor to the roof; secondly, since there is a stove in the bath, it will be necessary to involve the principle “from the stove”. That is, we will carry out the interior decoration of the bath in this order, assuming that the box with windows and doors is already on the foundation:

1. If the furnace is brick - laying its foundation and building the furnace;
2. Subfloor device;
3. Flooring of the finishing floor separately for the premises - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room (if it is provided);
4. Wall decoration and arrangement of upper air vents;
5. Installation metal furnace and the arrangement of its chimney;
6. Ceiling decoration;
7. Installation of partitions and a little about the equipment and lighting of the bath.

Note: the upper products in the bath are often forgotten, but in vain. Especially in the steam room, they can be vital to instantly blow off steam, suddenly someone becomes ill. An unheated bath is always kept with open upper vents to avoid dampening of the walls.

brick oven

Sauna stoves are a separate topic, and brick sauna stoves are special in a separate one. Here we will focus only on the fire cutting of the chimney, because. without it, it is impossible to start further arrangement with it, and so far no one has come up with hanging chimneys without a stove.

The sauna brick stove is heated intensively, but not constantly and for a short time, so the danger of soot igniting in it is small. Therefore, the cutting of her chimney is made not broadened, but in 7 rows; order see pos. 1 fig. In the attic floor, a hatch is cut out for cutting, pos. 2, and produce additional insulation with vermiculite, pos. 3. In the case of using a widened cut, the hatch is expanded accordingly and additional insulation is then no longer needed, on the right in pos. 3. Cutting the passage through the roof is common, but that's another topic.

Draft floor

The beams of the subfloor of the bath should be supported by concrete columns from 200x200 mm or brick from 380x380 mm. Under each column, an anti-heaving sand cushion is arranged at least 300 mm thick (thickness) and with an extension beyond the contour of the column from 150 mm. The step of installing supports is not more than 1.2 m along the long side of the building and not more than 2 m along the short side. If the frame of the subfloor is spinal or slatted (see below), then the layout of the supports is drawn up so that there is a column under each crosshair of the beams. Because the basement of the bath is low, then in all respects it is convenient to take ready-made concrete foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm without a tooth, with smooth ends, on the floor supports. The columns are aligned to the horizon along the foundation by filling and tamping sand cushions and, before laying the floor beams, they are covered with 2 layers of waterproofing, like the foundation.

Material and impregnation

The ideal material for the floor beams and 1-2 lower rims of the log house is a healthy straight-grained tar pine freshly cut in the height of spring. Bark beetles, woodworms and fungi do not touch this one: they will choke in resin. Abundant resin in it is bituminized by the end of summer, and the tree will become resistant to moisture, rot and pests no worse than bog oak. The resin does not need any pre-treatment, but, unfortunately, this material is very expensive, and in many countries logging during the spring sap flow is generally prohibited.

It is better to take larch for beams and boards of the subfloor: it is enough to impregnate it with flame retardants and biocides with inexpensive and safe solutions of borax and boric acid; larch is not afraid of water anyway. Oak is also, but it is more expensive, and the bath does not need an addition of strength. Other industrial wood for the floor must also be impregnated with water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Of these, only expensive refined mineral oils and no less expensive synthetic ones based on silicone are suitable for a bath. It is better to forget about bituminous mastic, and even more so about surrogates like working off, if we are talking about a bathhouse.

Note: all without exception wood materials to finish the bath before use, they are brought into it and left for 1-3 days for acclimatization. Otherwise, the finished structure of them will almost certainly soon warp or dry out.

Frames and beams

If the width of the bath structure is more than 4 m, the frame of the subfloor needs a spinal frame (item 1 in the figure) or a lattice of 150x150 bars. In this case, its beams crash into each other half a tree. The frame, like the entire floor of the bath, is made floating with a deformation gap around the perimeter of 20-40 mm. The gap is loosely filled with jute rope or mineral board.

In a bath up to 4 m wide, the base of the subfloor is made of 150x50 beams. After trimming to size, cranial bars 40x40 or 50x50 are stuffed on them below, and the beams are laid out in places in increments of 400-500 mm, pos. 2. Beams are fixed from displacement with pieces of the same beam, cut according to the template, pos. 3. In log buildings, it is permissible to lay floor beams in grooves lower crown log house freely, without tie-in, pos. 4, with a gap along the groove contour of 4-6 mm. Next, the cells of the beam structure are filled with subfloor boards, pos. 5. They are attached to the cranial bars with galvanized or phosphated nails or self-tapping screws.

First and second features

It is necessary to lay the draft floor of the bath across the spans between the beams from pieces of boards cut to size. As we will see further, then when laying the finishing floor, the gaps in it and in draft floor will turn out perpendicular, which will facilitate very much difficult task bath floor insulation.

The second feature is that it is better to take cheap barked croaker on the draft floor of the bath and lay it with the bulges up. The outer dense and resistant layer of wood in the slab boards is not broken, which will give the floor durability, and the convexity of the boards will prevent stagnation of water spilled on the floor. The slabs, due to a decrease in the thickness of the trunk, converge to one end from the bottom up, so the rough floor from the slab is collected by picking up the boards and laying them alternately with thin ends in one direction and the other.

lags

Finally, lags of the finishing floor 50 mm wide without tie-in are installed on the floor beams, pos. 6. They are also fastened to the beams with galvanized or phosphated steel corners from 30x30x2 and also corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws from 6x25. “From” in the first case refers primarily to the thickness of the metal of the corner, so that it lasts for at least 15 years under bath operating conditions.

Third feature

The height of the log under the finishing floor in the bath is taken different for different rooms: 50 mm in the washing room, 75-100 mm in the dressing room and rest room and 200 mm in the steam room. Why - see below.

Finished floor

So why are the lags of the floors in the bath different? First of all, because it is possible to apply the usual floor insulation scheme (see the figure on the right) in the bath only for the dressing room and the rest room. In the steam room and washing room, hot water is necessarily spilled on the floor; in principle, only extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is capable of maintaining its qualities and not becoming a source of rot in such conditions from insulating materials, but it, like other types of foam, has been seriously discredited according to recent studies.

Not so long ago, in several countries (Holland, Canada, Russia, etc.), experiments were completed, at the beginning of which foam boards of various types were applied to walls made of various building materials and immured under plaster of various compositions. After an autopsy after 10 years, it turned out that from the original thickness of the foam plastic of 80-100 mm there was ... 17-23 mm!

As it turned out during the analysis, the foam plastics are destroyed to liquid styrene, and that evaporates under the influence of subtle traces of chemically active volatile organics in the air, up to the components of the aroma of flowers and the smell of coniferous forests. Industrial emissions and gasoline cinders - of course, and even worse. The rate of chemical reactions and diffusion of vapors into solids depend on temperature according to power laws, therefore, in a bath, foam plastic insulation is unlikely to last 10 years even under concrete, which, it seems, many users have already encountered.

It follows that there is only one way to insulate the floor in the washing and steam baths: air-air, like a gas view in bell-type furnaces. Its essence is that a cushion of cold dense gases / air keeps warm ones on itself, but for this it is necessary to exclude convection by limiting the contact area of ​​​​cold and warm layers. The effect is the stronger, the greater the temperature difference and, consequently, the density, cold and warm interlayers.

The design of the floor with cells of lags intersecting with beams and slots of the draft and finishing floor just prevents convection, keeping warm air above the floor. Elevation of the steam room floor above the washing floor by 150 mm is necessary due to the temperature difference in them. In a steam room, a less heated air cushion in the floor is more stable and warmer than in a washing room. Leaking there from below, it feeds the cooled air in the floor of the washing room: there it, finally cooling down, goes into the underground. The temperature difference at the top and bottom of the washing room is much smaller, convection through the floor can go through narrow cracks and the room will quickly get cold.

As for the elevation of the floors of the dressing room and the rest room, according to sanitary standards, it should be from 3 cm. This value was obtained from the statistics of pipeline accidents in bathrooms - per 1 sq. m floor in such cases pours up to 25 liters of water. A layer of 3 cm per 1 sq. m gives 30 liters, i.e. with a margin so that it does not flow into living rooms. For a bath, this calculation is invalid, but - the norm is the norm, and there will be no harm from an elevation of more than 3 cm. Finally, the outflow of the “cold” (which is warm for other rooms) air cushion from the floor of the steam room will also warm the floors of the dressing room with a rest room.

Clean floor - washing

As you can see, the critical point of warming the bath floor is the washing floor. If you do it, as is often advised, oblique with dotted surface runoff, this is not the best option:

• non-leaking wooden floors does not happen, and stagnant water in the gaps between the boards contributes to the occurrence of foci of rot and mold.
• The possibility of air-air insulation of the floor is excluded, because. the air above and below the flooring is physically separated.
• The injury risk of the floor increases, tk. he is a little, but sloping and wet all the time.

From these shortcomings, the washing floor with a dispersed drain and a trap in the subfield is free, pos. 1 in fig. In addition, this design makes it possible to additionally insulate the subfloor with a layer of expanded clay under the concrete screed. It is best if the catcher captures the entire area of ​​​​the bath. If not, it should also extend under the steam room, and its wings should go under the dressing room and the rest room by at least 60 cm.

The slatted floor in the washing room is made of larch or oak boards with a rounded edge, pos. 2. Slots on pos. 3 shows the maximum allowable width so that you can catch a small object that has fallen into the underground with your fingers, a hook or tweezers / platypuses; in fact, gaps of 0.5-1 cm are enough for the floor in the washing room to work as it should.

Clean floor - steam room

In a steam room with a finished floor, it is easier - here there is a volley drain only if they are poured from a gang, and the underground is heated well. Therefore, the floor of the steam room can be laid from the same boards as in the washing room, laid back to back.

Walls

If, laying the floors in the bath, you had to think more about their own functionality, then on the walls you can not ignore the structural features of the bath and the decorative qualities of the finish. First of all, you need to decide which better finish wood: molded from natural wood or more resistant, but not exuding useful substances (eg phytoncides) MDF. In any case, at the same stage, the type of insulating material is determined. The choice depends on the properties of the material of the bath structure - timber / galvanized log, frame / foam blocks, brick / aerated concrete blocks. The structure of a bath from monolithic foam concrete is the same in properties as from foam blocks.

insulation

It is usually recommended to insulate the bath with mineral wool, as well as living quarters, which is not the best choice: mineral wool is hygroscopic, wet loses its insulating qualities and irreversibly cakes. According to a set of properties, cellulose insulation - ecowool - should be recognized as the best insulating material for a bath. Much has been written about its merits; for a bath, the main thing is that ecowool practically does not lose its insulating qualities after 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity. In addition, ecowool is blown into the cavity without much difficulty with the help of a manual blowing machine, which can be rented, see fig.

Insulation with ecowool is more expensive than with mineral wool, by about 25%. But we take into account that the area of ​​the insulated surface decreases squarely with a decrease in the size of the building. If, for example, when insulating a house of 100 sq. m ecowool overspending money comes out 100 thousand rubles, then for a bath of 20 square meters. m (4x5 m), its absolute value will decrease by 25 times and amount to 4 thousand rubles, which will not be visible in the estimate for the bath.

In general, ecowool was purposely created to insulate baths, but then we will always focus on the more popular mineral wool. Just keep in mind that for ecowool, foil vapor barrier can almost always be replaced with glassine or kraft paper, and where not, it will be indicated specifically.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

They are often confused or considered the same material, so let's clarify: foam concrete absorbs vapors and liquid water a lot and quickly, but just as easily gives off moisture. Aerated concrete is vapor permeable almost like wood. liquid water it draws into itself slowly and in a smaller volume, but, when damp, it dries no better than a brick.

Board and lining

You can finish the walls of the bath with a clean-edged board as you like, but you won’t do without cracks in them. Sheathing the walls of a washing and steam room with a simple tongue-and-groove board can only be carried out upright: shelves and a tongue pocket of horizontally sewn boards will become moisture traps and foci of wood damage.

When lining walls in a bath with clapboard, it is not so much the material that matters as the profile of the board. For sheathing with horizontal belts, the Standard profile is more suitable, at the top in fig. on the right or Softline (with rounded chamfers) without a ventilation slot on the back side: ventilation of the skin will be ensured by the vertical arrangement of the battens, see below. For upright sheathing on a horizontal crate, profiles are needed in a wide ventilation groove, in the center; the crossing crate in the bath is unsuitable, because. the ventilation of the skin will in any case be poor. Profiles with narrow ventilation slots are also unsuitable, below in the figure: they are designed to be installed without crates on even walls in dry rooms.

How the bath walls breathe and get wet

Baths made of rounded logs and logs, compared to the original Russian ones, breathe more often and deeper, because. in both cases, the upper dense layer of wood is cut off and its pores are open over the entire surface of the material. Baths made of foam concrete / foam blocks and frame ones breathe in the same way, but dampen faster and lose their heat-insulating properties; dry quickly too. Compared to humans, they are easily out of breath and catch cold, but recover easily. A gas-block bath breathes easily and deeply, but if you already have a cold, that is. damp, sick (dries) for a long time and hard. brick bath breathes shallowly and heavily, but is ill in the same way as aerated concrete.

wood species

The bath is able to deepen and slow down the breathing inner lining from oak or beech; to a lesser extent - from ash and maple. To speed it up and ease it - from linden, alder, aspen; finishing the steam room with a tree of these species will be the best. Birch and hornbeam are easily affected by fungi and pests, as is wet walnut. From conifers for a bath, seasoned pine after “burning”, as described above, is very mediocre. Other rocks advertised for finishing baths have not yet been properly tested for the expiration of unhealthy substances, with one exception.

This exception is Japanese cryptomeria; it goes on sale under the name koto or kote. From koto, the Japanese make their baths, fonts, and other washing accessories. The finish of cryptomeria itself is able to give the bath even deep breathing and a healthy mind. Cryptomeria is resistant to diseases and pests, grows quite quickly, and resumes well. Therefore, her technical culture has already spread quite widely, and lining from cryptomeria is cheaper than lime. Its color is light, slightly darker than that of maple; fine texture. In addition to the steam room, the koto tree is suitable for finishing the washroom. Keep in mind.

Sheathing board / clapboard

Schemes of sheathing the walls of the bath with wood molded materials are given on the left in fig. Let's immediately pay attention to the sidebar: with a herringbone, as there, the walls of the bath cannot be sheathed - rot will come out of the pockets under the sheathing. At pos. 1 - scheme of the inner lining of the walls of the bath from a bar, rounded logs and foam blocks. The heat-insulating properties of such a bath are good, the vapor permeability of the walls is close to optimal, therefore foil vapor barrier is enough under the cladding to protect the building from condensate freezing during the bath cooling. For plating fit lining from MDF. The foam block bath will additionally need to be protected from the outside from getting wet without losing vapor permeability, see at the end. The lining for its sheathing needs a wooden bath that makes breathing heavier, see above. Vapor barrier is necessary for any insulating material.

At pos. 2 - scheme of the inner lining of the bath from other materials, including gas blocks. Their heat-insulating qualities are high, but this material must be protected in every possible way from liquid moisture on the wall, even for a short time. To this end, the finishing of a washing bath from gas blocks necessarily includes waterproofing from a microperforated membrane (under-roofing film) in its structure: membrane waterproofing retains the smallest droplets of condensate, but passes water vapor, which then migrates through the wall to the outside. Breathing from this gas-block bath will, of course, be rather bad.

Bath from a bar natural humidity(the cheapest) when erecting a log house, it must be caulked into a stretch, see fig. on right. In a bath of bricks and foam blocks, the crate for sheathing is mounted on bare aligned walls, pos. 3 in fig. above. Then they put / spray a heater and apply a metallized vapor barrier - foil isol, etc., circling the laths of the crate with it. Put the laths of the crate on top of the insulation, as in pos. 6 - a serious mistake: through their fasteners, moisture will penetrate the insulation and the wall; fasteners for sheathing and insulation clamps are small, they do not pierce through the crate, see also below.

The overlap of strips (tapes) of insulation is 15-20 cm; joints are glued with special adhesive tape. The top tape should rest on the bottom one to drain possible condensate. If the bath roof is insulated, then the probability of condensation at the top along the wall contour is higher than on the ceiling. In this case, before rolling out the last tape of wall insulation, the ceiling is insulated (pos. 6), and the overlap of the last tape is given to both the previous wall and ceiling insulation.

Actually, the sheathing of the walls of the bath has no significant features, except for one: the finishing of the steam room in the bath with clapboard should be done only and only with regular fasteners - gluers, see fig. Temperature jumps in the steam room can reach 80 degrees in the Moscow region and more than 100 degrees in Siberia; the corresponding value will be thermal deformations. Any simplifications-cheapenings allowed in living rooms, such as small nails driven obliquely into the tongue groove, in the steam room will soon lead to warping of the skin, damage to the insulation and jamming of the walls.

Top blowouts

Ventilation vents under the ceiling of the bath - the upper vents - are necessary, as mentioned above, to keep the temperature and humidity of the unheated bath on a par with the outside and so that steam can be quickly dumped in case of emergency. But it is impossible to make them in the form of simple ventilation windows with blind hatch covers: during thermal bath procedures, condensate may fall in the ventilation duct, which will immediately go into the wall and / or insulation. Therefore, the upper vents in the bath are made with inserts from the wall material (see the figure on the right) or, say, foam, in which case it is quite applicable.

Furnace and chimney

The simplest way to install a metal sauna stove is shown in pos. 1 fig., but this is far from optimal: there is no sight, but the injury and fire hazard does not decrease, because the fence is combustible and permeable. A solid brick fence (pos. 2) is more reliable, but takes up more usable area, the excess of which is not observed in home-made baths. Brick oven, pos. 3, in addition, requires laying the foundation for it and long technical breaks for shrinkage of it and the structure of the furnace. It is best, perhaps, to install a sauna stove in a niche lined with artificial stone(pos. 4) or porcelain stoneware; both are firmly glued to the wood with appropriate mounting adhesives.

Currently, a wide range of chimneys for stoves based on a sandwich pipe is on sale. They look neat, inset at the top left in the figure:

But, firstly, they do not get rid of metalwork and welding and construction works, as seen from the diagram in the center in Fig; there are also enough other complexities and subtleties when installing a sandwich chimney (see video).

Video: installation of a sandwich chimney

Secondly, many happy owners of "cool" chimneys in practice confessed to cases like the one, the consequences of which are shown in the box at the top right. Manufacturers of consumers do not deceive here, but the latter, choosing cheaper, unknowingly connect chimneys-sandwiches for fireplaces to sauna stoves, which are absolutely unsuitable for bath conditions. And for a more or less suitable chimney-sandwich for a bathhouse or heating and cooking stove, you need to pay at least 30 thousand rubles.

Meanwhile, there is a way to make a simple and safe chimney of a sauna stove with your own hands, spending no more effort than installing a branded sandwich, and many times less money. This is a sleeve of ordinary steel chimney. How it is produced is shown in pos. 1 fig., and how it looks in real life - in pos. 2 and 3. If the pipe under the bottom of the sleeve is red-hot, the temperature of the attachment points of the brick cutting base plate at +60 in the room will not exceed +95 allowed for wood. Insulation of the base plate from below is necessary so that when the combustion is weak or at the beginning of the heating of a cold room in the chimney, soot deposition does not increase and / or acid condensate does not fall out.

Ceiling

The task of the bath ceiling, as mentioned above, is quite simple: it must prevent heat loss through itself, so that convection in both the heated and cold bath occurred without reaching the anguish of dew in the premises. Therefore, the ceiling of the bath is made of the usual hemmed from the same board or lining as the walls, according to the standard scheme shown with dimensions on the left in Fig. The option of a 2-stage ceiling insulation for a bath with a warm attic, an inhabited attic or a home bath is given on the right in the same place.

Partitions and more

The partitions of any bath in all respects are more desirable to install light frame on a clean floor. Their heat and sound insulation can be foam, because. this design is quite repairable. There is only one limitation: sheathing is made of the same materials as the walls; plywood, fiberboard, and gypsum board, even if moisture resistant, are unsuitable, they are not for bathing conditions.

The second thing that has more to do with the decoration of the bath than with its equipment and furniture is the shelves. Schemes and dimensions of bath shelves for steam rooms of different sizes and layouts are given in Fig.:

As for their design, here the easiest way would be a set of ordinary lattice ladders made of hardwood species suitable for a bath (see above).

Such sunbeds are laid on wooden skids installed on the walls in the order of their sheathing, see fig. on right. This solution makes it possible to configure the shelves as needed or completely remove them for cleaning, sanitizing or repair.

About bathroom lighting

According to the rules of TB, the entire bath belongs to the premises of the most dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock and fire hazard. Under such conditions, a common 12 V power supply and waterproof fixtures are acceptable. Everything would be fine, but wiring for the same power turns out to be high-current, unreliable and unsafe in a humid heated environment, and light bulbs quickly burn out. Therefore, recently, expensive, but completely safe light guide illuminators are increasingly used to illuminate the washing and steam rooms. In them, a projector lamp illuminates a beam of light guides, the branches of which are bred at the points of location of the illuminators. Among other things, the light-guided lighting of the sauna allows you to get beautiful light effects, see fig.:

From reverse

Well, it turns out that the decoration of the bath largely determines the pleasure and benefits of it? Why, in this case, not think of a bathhouse for yourself, following from the finish to the outside? That's right, many bath designers do just that. Let's also try to think over a small bathhouse for ourselves, with a minimum of justified costs for it, as pleasant and beneficial as possible. The result is:

• The foundation is a tape, not buried or columnar with a plinth. With the size of the building in terms of up to 6x6 m, the forces of frost heaving on ordinary soils will practically not tilt the structure, the bath will simply rise and fall a little during the year.
• On weak, subsidence and strongly heaving soils - strip foundation normal depth.
• The structure of the bath - foam blocks on the usual masonry cement-sand mortar.
• Exterior finish and thermal insulation - a ventilated facade made of dry-formed facing bricks; half-brick masonry, connections with bearing wall- steel anchors with deformation bending seam to seam.
• The floor is planked from larch along the joists on the beams from it.
• Drainage from the washing room and steam room through the slatted floor dispersed into a concrete trap.
• Drainage pit - at a distance from the building.
• Warming - ecowool.
• Finishing the washing and steam room - simple board stand up.
• Wood for finishing the steam room - linden, cryptomeria, alder, aspen, poplar.
• Wood for finishing the washing - larch, cryptomeria, pine, oak, ash, maple.
• Finishing the dressing room and the rest room - according to the means and desire.
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The bustle of a densely populated city makes us forget how useful it is, at least occasionally, to take a steam bath in,. However, not every steam room in the private sector can boast of the aesthetics of the interior and exterior. And this is an important factor. It is unlikely that you will be able to relax your body and soul in a gray, dull building. Today we will talk about the interior decoration of the bath. We will figure out which material is better to use for a particular room, consider the stages of work that need to be done. It makes sense to get acquainted with the photo of the interior decoration of the bath, which will be presented in today's article.

The interior decoration of the bath begins with the floor. It is poured with a concrete screed, on which logs are subsequently laid, a rough coating, and after that finishing floors are laid. next step wall decoration in progress. The ceiling is finished last. But in order to perform finishing work, you should select and purchase material, the range of which is huge on the construction markets today.

After the construction is completed, the first thing to consider is what is being done from the inside. Although no one interferes with laying a heat-insulating layer of foam or other outside.

Materials used for finishing the steam room

The materials intended for such work are quite diverse. Among them:

• lining;
• block house;
• timber imitation;
• oriented strand board (OSB).

If we talk about the benefits, aesthetics and compare the complexity of installation various materials, then lining wins in all respects. However, its cost, if we take into account quality products, is quite high. Let's take a look at all of the above. Decoration Materials. This is the only way to understand which one to prefer.

Lining: the pros and cons of finishing material

The algorithm for working with lining is as follows. Guides are fixed on the wall - or a narrow thick board, in increments of 80-100 cm. Their location coincides with the planned direction of the lining.

Important! It is better to place the lining vertically - this will not allow dripping drops of moisture to linger in the connecting joints. If, nevertheless, it is decided to place the boards horizontally, then the connection spike is directed upward, and the groove, respectively, downward. This will prevent moisture from getting inside.

Having fixed the guides, we lay layers between them mineral wool(it is not necessary to ram it) and we fix the vapor barrier material, the seams of which are glued with aluminum tape.

Good to know! When installing thermal insulation, special attention is paid to the corners. They are the “weak link” for drafts, cold from the street, and hence heat leakage from the steam room.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the photo of the arrangement of baths inside with your own hands:

The nuances of finishing the bath clapboard inside with your own hands

Like any work, lining the bath with clapboard has its own nuances. The main one can be called the fastening of the finishing material to the crate. To do this, you can use nails (better "German", having a corrugated surface). However, it's best to use .

The microclimate in the steam room changes periodically, which leads to the expansion and drying of wood. This will eventually lead to the fact that the nails will cease to fulfill their function - to hold the lining on the crate. In this sense, the screw screw is more reliable.

Important! Before the beginning finishing works you need to treat the lining with an antiseptic and flame retardant and wait until it dries completely. This processing is only needed once.

Block house: what is this material and how to work with it

Block house (from the English block house) is a kind of lining (according to the way the parts are connected). However appearance block house is different. finished wall looks like it was made out of logs. The material is used for facades and interior finishing works.

Installation of a block house does not differ from lining, but there is one nuance in its application. The coating requires treatment with antiseptics and flame retardants at least once every 2-3 years.

Important! When choosing such a finishing material, pay attention to the type of wood from which the blockhouse is made. For the interior lining of the bath, only hardwoods are suitable (most the best option will become a linden). For the dressing room, cheaper ash or white acacia wood is chosen. Exterior decoration is carried out with coniferous trees - pine or spruce (aspen is allowed).

The photos of the saunas outside and inside below will allow you to draw up a general concept for the future project:

Imitation of timber: features, advantages, disadvantages

Again, wall cladding technology is similar to clapboard. However, panels imitating timber are wider. In addition, they have a serious advantage - with temperature changes, humidity, they do not crack. This is achieved by grooves on the inside, which serve to relieve the tension of the wood.

The choice of material is subject to the same rules as in the case of choosing a block house. Speaking about the minuses, we note only unscrupulous manufacturers, violations of drying technology. In addition to the "human factor", the imitation of timber has no drawbacks. The average service life of such a finishing material is 10-20 years.

Useful information! If there is no desire, time or opportunity to sheathe the bath inside on your own, you can turn to professionals. But such services can make a significant gap in the family budget. According to the most conservative estimates, the cost of finishing 1 m 2 will be 2000-2500 rubles.

Laying tiles - do it yourself or turn to professionals?

Tiles are used for flooring. Less often it is used for walls. Inexperienced home craftsmen fear that they cannot do such work on their own, but this is a delusion. In order to dispel doubts, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with step by step instructions laying tiles on the example of the flooring of the kitchen or hallway. The work algorithm is identical. The only difference is in the composition of the tile adhesive - for the bath you need to choose a composition that is not afraid of high temperatures.

Related article:

Photo examples of layout options, advantages and disadvantages of coverage, specifications and tile sizes, selection criteria, laying subtleties, expert recommendations - read in the publication.

There are some nuances in the choice of tiles. You should pay attention to the surface - glazed is not suitable here, the surface should not be smooth, preventing slipping. Generally, flooring in a steam room requires a special approach. Let's try to parse it in more detail.

Rules for laying the flooring of the washing room or steam room

The first thing you should pay attention to is the screed. It is performed in 3 stages. The first layer is poured first. After complete drying, thermal insulation is laid, after which the finishing layer is poured. In this case, the floor covering should be 5-20 cm higher than the poured concrete.

When installing wooden floors, a “leaking” option is often used, when water seeps through cracks in the floor without hindrance. This will require external installation. This method of drainage is simpler and does not require a lot of time, effort and money.

The second option is non-leaking, sealed floors. Most often used in flooring. In this case, the floor is sloped in a certain direction, and a ladder is mounted at the lowest point - a drain hole. Under the floor from the ladder there is a sewer or.

However, in addition to drainage, the flooring in the bath has one more nuance - the use of tiles requires heating. Ceramics - cold material. Considering that the temperature at the bottom is always lower than at the top, a system should be considered.

Installation options for underfloor heating in the bath

Underfloor heating systems are quite useful not only in the apartment, but also in the bath. The main task here is right choice kind. They can be:

• electric(using heating cable);
• water- using a heat carrier heated by a boiler;
• - a relatively new type of heating with infrared radiation.

If speak about wooden floors, then the optimal (albeit rather labor-intensive) solution would be to use water heating. Tiled flooring is more compatible with electrical warm floors using a cable. The installation of infrared in the "warm floor" systems in the bath is rarely used due to the high cost. Although the energy savings of this type of device is significant, in comparison with the cord.

Bath interior options inside: photos of various rooms

As you know, the bath can be divided into several rooms, each of which is designed based on the preferences of the master. It can be one style, and perhaps each of the rooms will be decorated in its own way. Now we will consider in detail how the interior decoration of the bath can be done with your own hands, depending on the purpose of the room. But first you should familiarize yourself with the ideas of home craftsmen. Below are the design projects of baths, created not by professionals, but by ordinary people:

Steam room design in the bath: a few photo examples

The steam room is the heart of the bath. It should be light and comfortable. Here, as in no other room, special attention must be paid to the choice of finishing material. It must withstand changes in temperature, humidity, not swell from steam. At the same time, appearance is of great importance. For example, if you finish the steam room inside with coniferous wood (pine or spruce), then after several washings the walls will darken, acquire a gray, unsightly shade. And regardless of what protective compounds they were treated with. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the photo of the finishing of the steam room of the bath inside. Perhaps they will give the reader some thoughts:

The interior of the washing room in the bath: finishing features

A washing room in a bath is a room whose walls are constantly splashed or even jets of water, which means that you need to take care of choosing a material, taking into account this nuance. If we are talking about wood, then larch or linden is used - these varieties are the best suited for such operating conditions. However, the best option would be to finish the floor and walls. tiles. In order to make it clearer how the washroom is finished, pay attention to photo examples finished premises similar type:

The best photos of finishing the bath inside: shower room or cabin

Today, home craftsmen prefer showers, which is not surprising. They can be installed in the washing room, their installation is simple, such devices do not take up much space. Finishing is done in the style of a washroom, or it is not required at all if the shower cabin is purchased in a store, in a factory version. Below you can see what a shower room might look like in the interior of a bath:

Rest room in the bath - interior design of the necessary premises

Such rooms are designed so that you can take a break from hot steam. The temperature in them is kept cool, which is facilitated by good thermal insulation of the steam room and the location between it and the dressing room of the washing room.

The decoration of the rest room involves the use of various materials - there are no strict requirements for them, as in the decoration of a steam room or a washing room, but the aesthetic appearance is even more important here. Darker tones are used. The ideal wood for finishing the dressing room is bog oak. For example, you can pay attention to the photo of the design of the dressing rooms, the decoration of which was carried out by home craftsmen:

And a few more photos of the interiors of the bathhouse and the rest room:

Looking at these photos of the interior design of baths with rest rooms, it is hard to believe that the decoration was carried out by craftsmen without any experience and education of the designer, but this is a fact.

Finishing the locker room in the bath and its features

The locker room is the driest room, which means that there are no high requirements for finishing materials. Even the use of pine or spruce is allowed - after all, the microclimate here will be similar to a living space.

Important information! If coniferous wood is chosen for finishing the dressing room, you should take care of the outer covering of the lining, block house or imitation of timber. Protection here is needed not so much for wood as for clothing that will come into contact with the walls. Coniferous boards can emit resin drops, which are quite problematic to clean from things. Below are photos of the interior decoration of the sauna, namely ideas for a dressing room in the bath.

Do-it-yourself exterior decoration: photos of beautiful baths

Finishing the facade of the bath is no less important. In addition to aesthetic, it also performs protective functions. Consider examples of the design of the appearance of baths in photo examples:

Conclusion

Summarizing the above information, we note that with the right and thoughtful approach to finishing the bath, you can do it on your own, without the involvement of professional craftsmen. Additional savings are achieved by a thoughtful approach to the choice of material.

If all actions are performed in compliance with simple rules, the steam room will last for many years, will please with an aesthetic appearance at a relatively low cost. But the main thing is the incomparable feeling of relaxation, which gives a rustic bath, heated with birch logs.

And finally, we offer you to watch an informative video clip on the topic of warming the ceiling of the bath.

How to choose the right materials for decoration, and what qualities should they have? First of all, it should be the massiveness of the material, high heat capacity and good resistance to moisture and hot steam. Secondly, the building material must be safe to use, environmentally friendly, durable, aesthetically attractive and fit into the interior of the sauna. The most acceptable in this regard is wooden lining, although other types of finishes can be used.

Classic variant- wood. It not only has a presentable appearance, but also has good moisture resistance and does not heat up beyond measure. Natural board does not emit bad smell or harmful substances. The optimal temperature for a steam room with wooden clapboard- +120 0 C. But it is worth considering the high humidity in the room, so wooden board needs acclimatization. It is desirable that she lie down in the sauna for several days and be treated with a special impregnation.

The photo of finishing the sauna inside, as shown below, involves lining all surfaces with clapboard. The most durable boards will be made of larch, oak, cedar or ash, they can be used for both floors and ceilings.

Since there is less humidity in the sauna than in the Russian bath, spruce, pine lining, and linden are used for the walls of the relaxation room. But for the steam room, it is better to choose poplar, aspen or birch, which, when heated, do not emit a pungent odor. Such lining warms up slowly, but not excessively and retains pleasant heat for a long time.

Do not use coniferous trees, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic lining and linoleum for finishing the steam room. At high temperatures, these materials release dangerous toxins.

For a beautiful and non-standard interior, the boards can be combined with each other, as in the photo below.

At the installation site of the fireplace and in the washroom, brick or glazed tile lining is used.

In terms of style, the rooms decorated with mosaic tiles under the Turkish hammam look very impressive.

Do-it-yourself sauna decoration

Work begins with laying the floor and ends with the installation of the ceiling. For floors, it is undesirable to choose oak boards, as they become too slippery in conditions of high humidity. All planes are carefully aligned.

To begin with, a thermal insulation layer is laid, an additional vapor barrier ball is required for brick saunas, and a crate is made of wood. The slats are fixed at a distance of 65-70 cm. A lining is attached to it. Nails are not used, euro lining is selected or from spike-to-groove designs. The slats of the crate are fastened with stainless steel nails.

The ceiling above the fireplace or electric stove is raised by 15 cm.

The first is fixed to the extreme rail and the rest are laid from it. If the walls in the sauna are perfectly even, it is allowed to install lining without crates.

The tile is laid with a rough face and a smooth base. This will prevent mold from falling and spreading between the tile and the wall. modern view there are a lot of tiles, but if you are laying it yourself and for the first time, it is better to choose a traditional square or rectangular one.

The section of the wall near the firebox is trimmed with stone or heat-resistant tiles.

If the whole room is equipped with tiles, they start laying ceramics from the most noticeable corner. Before work, the tiles must be soaked in water for a couple of minutes. Swollen tiles will absorb less adhesive, which will help save on it. When laying, you need to use cross-separators and a spatula-comb. After the glue dries, the seams are rubbed.

For ceilings, film vapor barrier and basalt fiber, sawdust or shavings are used as thermal insulation. As a finish finishes fit well dried hardwood board.

By design, the ceiling can be made flat, panel or hemmed. The finished steam room will look harmonious with ceilings made of the same elements as the wall or floor decoration, as well as with contrasting options.

In a spacious sauna or a building with an attic, you can additionally equip a pool, allocate space on the veranda for a barbecue, and place it on the second floor game room or a bar.

What owner does not dream of his own bath? Variety of building materials and useful information on the Web and in print media make it possible to build a bathhouse with your own hands, without resorting to the expensive services of specialists. But building a sauna is only half the battle. It is important to finish it inside (unless it is made of natural beams - then finishing is optional), so that it looks beautiful, and contributes to a pleasant stay, and has a long service life. After looking at the photo of the interior decoration of the sauna, it may seem that it is too complicated. But if you carefully understand the instructions, the finish will not cause any special difficulties.

Selection of building materials

Bath - a room that is constantly exposed to high temperatures and a certain level of humidity. Therefore, materials, first of all, must be resistant to these influences. The next prerequisite is that the surfaces should not heat up to such an extent that a person could get burned, up to a maximum of 50 degrees. All these requirements are met by wood, so the main cladding is made with this particular material. The exception is the finishing of the furnace (minerals of natural origin are used) and the floor (tiles are used).

So, what kind of wood to finish the sauna to choose? First, let's deal with the steam room. Definitely not worth taking pine and birch. The first option, under the influence of high temperature, releases resin (with the exception of northern coniferous trees). The second option can theoretically be used, but keep in mind that such wood shrinks a lot, so if possible, take another material. Also, do not veneer the walls of chipboard and fiberboard. They are highly flammable and highly absorbent.

When buying lining for finishing, make sure that it is of high quality, not overdried and not wet, otherwise the final result will be unsatisfactory. Also, before installation, do not forget to hold the lining for several days in the bath so that it gets used to the microclimate.

Suitable materials for the steam room

Aspen, cedar, linden, larch are excellent for finishing walls in the sauna, as well as ceilings. Larch lining is not afraid of temperature changes and humidity, it is durable - it can last more than a century, has a beautiful reddish tint, and it also contains phytoncides - substances that kill bacteria and fungus in the human body. Under the influence of temperature, a pair of phytoncides are released and have a therapeutic effect.

Linden is perhaps the most common finishing material in domestic baths. This tree is very durable, does not give in to mechanical influences, heats up very slowly. A delicate light shade pleases the eye, but in order for it to last for a long time, the lining should be processed before installation. Linden also exudes a pleasant aroma.

Cedar is known for its healing properties. He is not afraid of humidity and high temperatures. It requires minimal processing, after which it is able to serve at least a hundred years.

Aspen is another popular building material for sauna lining. It has excellent waterproofing properties, and with proper processing it becomes incredibly strong.

The temperature at the lower level rarely reaches above 30 degrees. Therefore, the floors can be earthen, concrete, clay. The danger for a person is that contact with such a surface can cause poor health due to temperature changes. Therefore, it is recommended to finish the floors in the steam room ceramic tiles but boards can also be used.

After evaluating the advantages and disadvantages of all materials, do not forget to look at a photo of the beautiful interior decoration of saunas to imagine what your bathhouse might look like.

Rest room decoration

There are many more options in terms of building materials and design solutions. For cladding, you can use all of the above materials. Before starting the design, we recommend that you look at the photos of the design of the sauna and the relaxation room, which will inspire original solutions.

When a bathhouse is being built, it is planned so that the steam room and the relaxation room are not in close proximity, that is, there should be a dressing room between them or, for example, a pool. By the way, a photo of the design of the sauna with a pool can also be viewed on the site. Despite this, all the same, the atmosphere of the rest room will be subjected to at least a minimal effect of humidity. Therefore, interior items should be selected with the calculation of this circumstance.

The design of the room depends entirely on the preferences and vision of the owner. Russian or Scandinavian style, country or contemporary - the owner himself chooses what he wants. We can only suggest that you familiarize yourself with the best photos bath-sauna interior design to come up with an interesting idea.

How to finish the bath yourself

Even an amateur builder can do the finishing of the sauna inside with his own hands - you just need to familiarize yourself with the technology. Finishing work is carried out in the following sequence: first the floor, then the ceiling, and only at the end of the wall. Do-it-yourself sauna finishing step by step looks something like this:

• adaptation of the material to climatic conditions;
• installation of cladding for cladding;
• installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing;
• erection of the foundation for the furnace and drain;
• floor cladding ( better tiles- ceramic or clinker);
• ceiling finish;
• wall cladding with ventilation.

Already at the stage of finishing it is worth thinking about the design. After looking at the photo of the decoration of baths and saunas, you can see interesting solutions, for example, how to combine several types of lining when facing different shades. The lining can be laid vertically or horizontally, or even combine the two methods. Rate how different types installation look, on the photo of finishing the sauna inside.

An original element of decor can be a window decorated with a stained-glass window or a mosaic. In general, interior design depends on the style, furnishings, furniture, the presence of small details and their original use, and other factors. See photos of sauna decoration, evaluate, fantasize, and be sure to create your own unique and inimitable design.

When decorating the sauna premises from the inside, it is necessary to use exclusively natural materials. This point is very important, since the release of harmful chemicals in the process of taking procedures can harm human health.

Even when using standard building materials, the decoration of the bath and sauna can turn out to be original and interesting, as in the photo. All works do not require the possession of special information and skills, so you can create an interior in the room yourself.

Selection of materials for decoration

The ideal material for finishing a sauna is, of course, wood. Wood for the premises should be of high density, resistant to rotting processes, and have a beautiful pattern. Experts do not advise using pine materials for these purposes, since when heated they will become in large numbers release resin.

If financially possible, it is desirable to give preference to Canadian cedar, rosewood or African oak. Such wood for finishing the sauna has a subtle aroma, has beautiful view and nice colors.

Birch, ash, linden, alder and aspen are more affordable. The linden slab covered with bast is especially in demand when finishing the bath, since its surface is pleasant to the touch, heats up slightly and has a porous structure, due to which it has the ability to regulate the level of humidity in the steam room. Be sure to complete the washing in the bath, which must be foreseen in advance.

As for birch or alder, their wood is valued for healing properties, and ash for durability and the presence of a beautiful cut of the core.

If the sauna is finished with wood, it is not necessary to use the same species for the lining of the washing room as for the steam room. For this room, pine lining is quite suitable, because thanks to the resin contained in this wood, the material is not afraid of strong humidity, does not rot, and retains an attractive appearance for a long time. Spruce lining is characterized by similar qualities, so it also decorates the washing room.

Equally important is the quality of the wood used. Such finishing materials for the sauna should have a minimum number of knots, be thoroughly dried, without dark spots and distortions, with an even and light shade on the cut. Availability gray color indicates the low quality of products and inappropriate storage conditions.

Together with wood, other finishing materials for baths and saunas are used in the construction process. Since the surface areas near the stove are exposed to high temperatures, they require facing with stone or heat-resistant tiles. It is recommended to use it when laying out the walls of the shower, the floor and some areas in the washing compartment.

Because tile flooring feels cold to the touch, rectangular or square wooden pallets are placed on top of it for comfort. The room looks unusual and stylish if the interior decoration of the sauna is made by a competent combination of ceramics, wood and stone.

Proper surface preparation

Before starting the facing work, it is necessary to prepare the walls, ceiling and floor. They should be isolated from moisture, insulated and ensured strength. wooden surfaces ceilings and walls must be treated with a penetrating primer with an antiseptic additive. If the walls of the sauna are made of bricks or blocks, they are leveled with cement plaster.

In the process of finishing work, the following materials and tools will be needed:

• drill;
• jigsaw;
• notched trowel;
• hammers (rubber and regular);
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• film for vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• heat-resistant tiles;
• timber and slats;
• lining;
• adhesive composition for tiles;
• nails and screws.

Finishing technology

Perform finishing work in the sauna and bath step by step:

Floor cladding. Finishing should start from the floor. As a rule, clinker tiles are laid out, in which the surface does not slip even when wet. The glue is diluted, the tiles are laid out and a notched trowel is used.

Facing begins to be done from an angle opposite entrance doors to the wig. On the concrete base apply a layer of heat-resistant glue and level it with a spatula. The first of the tiles is laid and pressed against the base. Plastic crosses are placed between the wall and the edge of the product.

Then they start laying adjacent elements, inserting crosses between them, and thus ensure the uniformity of the seams. During the installation of the tile, it is necessary to check the horizontal position of its location, in the presence of protruding fragments, use a rubber hammer. Excess adhesive is removed with a dry cloth.

When the flooring is completed, grout the joints using special formulations, which are applied with a spatula and then carefully rubbed into the joints between the elements. Excess funds are removed. At the end of the work, the floor surface is wiped with a damp cloth. Let the glue dry. During this time, wooden gratings can be made.

Arrangement of crates on the walls. When saunas are sheathed from the inside, for the installation of vapor barrier and insulation, it is necessary to make a crate from a bar with a section of 50x50 millimeters and nail it to the walls. If they are made of blocks or bricks, then they are used for fastening anchor bolts. The sheathing on the crate is fixed perpendicular to the location of the bars (more details: ""). The distance between adjacent posts should be 50 centimeters.

Thermal insulation installation. A waterproofing membrane is fixed on the crate with a stapler so that it sags a little. Between the racks made of timber, a heater is placed in one or two layers, while the thickness of the material should not exceed this parameter for the racks. If there are cracks and gaps, they are eliminated with mounting foam.

Then the last layer of vapor barrier film is laid. It is fixed on the frame with brackets, observing a 10-centimeter overlap. Seams should be sealed with tape.

Wall surface cladding. At this stage, the finishing of the sauna depends on the personal preferences of its owners. One of the options is full wall cladding with clapboard or wooden fragments. The second way is a combination of wood and tiles or lining the stove with masonry. You can also show imagination and create in the sauna original interior(more details: "").

Before the start of finishing work, wooden elements are brought into the room for a day for acclimatization. First, they mark out the areas where the tile and wood will be located, and only then they are engaged in sheathing. take wooden slats and stuff them perpendicular to the racks. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the lining is fixed on them. The level checks the location of the slats vertically.

In the room of a steam room, tile inserts are advised to be made only around the stove, and in the washing department and in the dressing room it is allowed to veneer any of the surfaces. If there are joints between ceramic products and the extreme wooden element needs to be made as even and dense as possible, for this the gaps are sealed with mastic.

Ceiling finish. First, the beams on the ceiling are covered with a waterproofing film, which is fixed with stapler brackets. The empty space between them is filled heat-insulating material. Its thickness should not be more than ceiling beams. The thermal protection layer is carefully covered with a vapor barrier film or foil is used, and the seams are sealed with adhesive tape.

Racks of 2 cm thickness are stuffed to the beams every 50 centimeters. They fix finishing, which is the lining.

Production of shelves and their subsequent installation

Furnishings play an important role in the interior design of the sauna. Special attention while giving shelves. As a rule, they are made in a rectangular shape and installed in 2-3 levels. How they look can be seen in the photo. Sheathing them with linden boards can be both continuous and leaving small gaps.

Shelves are located in the steam room in one of three ways:

• by the type of "coupe";
• stepped;
• L-shaped.

In the first case, they equip the lower stationary and upper lifting shelves, which are adjacent to the wall. This method is ideal for saunas with a small area, as it saves space in it. If necessary, the seat can be raised and fixed against the wall in this position.

In the second version, three shelves of different widths are mounted near one of the walls. They are placed one above the other. The widest of them is placed at the bottom, while it will be the coldest.

With the L-shaped method, 2 shelves are mounted on both sides of the corner, and a third is placed above one of them.

All three options involve the standard arrangement of shelves, but if you connect your imagination, the interior of the steam room can be made much more interesting. For example, a lighter material is used for sheathing a shelf, and a darker element is attached along the edge. The corners of the structure can be rounded, and lattice elements can be inserted between the continuous rows of skin.

When building and finishing a sauna with your own hands, you need to remember what lies ahead. hard work which will require a significant investment of time, effort and money. In order for the adoption of procedures in it to bring joy to both the soul and the body, its interior decoration must be done in compliance with all technological processes.