Algae on plants in an aquarium how to fight. Brown algae in the aquarium - a brown coating on the walls, stones and aquarium plants. Brown algae. How to fight and get rid

Algae - how many emotions this word can cause in an aquarist, and far from positive ones. For most aquarists, algae is a nasty brown coating, green haze or black threads that spoil appearance favorite aquarium. Why are they so disliked, why are they dangerous, where do they come from and how to get rid of them? I will try to cover all these questions in this article, dedicated to one of the main "headaches" of aquarists. To begin with, let's find out - what are these organisms and why do they appear in our aquariums?

Beginners often call everything that grows in an aquarium - algae, and seasoned ones correct - we grow plants, not algae. Let's take a look at the situation a bit.

Plants are organisms that have a photoautotrophic type of nutrition (they produce their own food using the energy of light and nutrients- carry out photosynthesis. Plants are divided into lower plants that do not have organs that perform various functions and a vascular system, and higher plants, which, accordingly, have a strict separation of tissues and a vascular system. Except mosses - higher plants no vascular system. According to scientific taxonomy, algae are an ecological group of organisms from various departments, including all aquatic lower plants.

So all algae are aquatic plants, but not all aquatic plants are algae!

Aquarists prefer to grow higher plants in fresh water - these are various aquatic and marsh grasses, mosses, ferns, but they do not like algae! And they try their best to get rid of them. Except when some types of macroalgae are used to decorate the aquarium along with higher plants.

Therefore, the correct answer to a newbie's statement would be: "we grow higher plants, not algae."

Aesthetically unsightly in an aquarium, lower plants are an essential part of wildlife. Algae are the main inhabitants of the surface waters of the Earth, it is from them that most natural aquatic ecosystems begin to be built, where algae form the basis for the existence of life. But we know that an aquarium is not a natural reservoir, and its biocenosis (a set of living organisms) is created and maintained artificially - the aquarist himself chooses animals and higher plants from different parts of our planet and places them in his aquarium. But lower plants settle in our aquariums on their own!

There is no ordinary aquarium that does not contain algae. Spores of the most common algae hover in the air around us, and exotic tropical "guests" enter our aquarium along with new fish and plants. The issue of quarantine from introducing spores of unwanted algae is quite controversial, pardon the pun, because it is not known whether it is possible to destroy algae spores without killing the higher plant itself? Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely rid yourself of algae, by all means preventing their spores from entering the aquarium.

But this does not mean that a newly acquired plant, abundantly covered with algae, can be safely planted in an aquarium. It's all about quantity. Algae gain "strength" depending on their total mass. When this mass reaches a certain critical point - the reproduction of algae in the aquarium will be very difficult to stop. Hence the often used term "flash" - under the right conditions, algae increase their presence in the aquarium exponentially, like an explosion. So why do we need to help algae take over our aquarium with our own hands? I advise you to treat such a plant in the most suitable way for it, or completely refuse to plant it in an aquarium.

As you know, trouble is easier to prevent than to deal with its consequences later, so the main prevention from an algal outbreak is to create conditions in the aquarium that are unfavorable for the development of algae. Each systematic group of lower plants has its own nuances of appearance in the aquarium, which I will discuss below.

But there is a general and most important condition for preventing the mass development of algae in an aquarium - limiting their nutrition.

The most important nutrients for any plant are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. They are called macronutrients. Potassium is added to the aquarium as needed as a fertilizer when growing higher plants, its excess does not cause an algae outbreak, unlike the other two macronutrients. The main supply of nitrogen and phosphorus in normal home aquarium where no macrofertilizers are used occurs with feed. Over time, these elements tend to accumulate in the form of compounds - nitrates and phosphates. The task of an aquarist who does not want to see algae in his aquarium is to keep the concentration of nitrates and phosphates at the lowest possible level. For this, special preparations are used (, Tetra Nitrateminus), special filter media (Tetra BalanceBalls Proline), subsoil additives (Tetra Nitrateminus pearls), regular water changes (15-30% of the aquarium volume per week), soil siphon, organization proper nutrition pets (use of high quality, low waste, prebiotic foods, such as the Tetra Pro line, no overfeeding). The content of nitrates and phosphates in aquarium water is measured using specialized aquarium tests.

In "herbalists" it is necessary to use competition for nutrients between lower and higher plants - more on this in separate material.

Recently running aquariums are more prone to algae outbreaks as they do not yet have established biological processes. But even "old" stable aquariums can become victims of an algae outbreak as soon as a sudden change occurs in one of the parameters.

Unfortunately, for most aquarists reading this article, the algae prevention section will not be relevant. Their aquariums are already full of algae! Why is it dangerous, and what to do?

In general, all types of algae control can be divided into four groups that differ in the method of exposure:

mechanical method- manual removal of algae using scrapers, magnets, sponges, sticks, siphons, filtration through finely porous fillers.
biological method- adding to the aquarium animals that feed on algae: fish, molluscs, crustaceans.
chemical method- the use of algicides, substances that disrupt vital processes in the cells of lower plants, leading to their inhibition or death.
physical method- dimming or increasing the illumination of the aquarium, lowering or raising the temperature, massive changes, the use of phosphate and silicate absorbers, preparations for the biological breakdown of nitrate, the installation of a UV sterilizer.

For each group of algae, only certain methods of exposure and their combinations will be effective; here it is important to know which algae we are dealing with. In the issue of identifying lower plants in an aquarium, it is not so important to determine the species, since it is not always possible, the main thing is to know which department these algae belong to.

The most common algae in aquariums, the reasons for their appearance and the main methods of control:

Diatoms (division Diatomeae)

Brown slimy coating on hard surfaces - glass, soil, decorations, sometimes occurs on plant leaves. Diatoms primarily appear in aquariums with low light levels and the availability of nutrients. In aquariums with higher plants and high light levels, they may appear immediately after start-up, with an unstable nitrogen cycle, but soon disappear. They have a shell in their structure, consisting of silicon compounds, therefore, in water with a high content of silicates, their appearance is most likely, in such cases it is necessary to use osmotic water or silicate absorbers.

Diatoms do not pose a danger to the inhabitants of the aquarium, and many fish (ancistrus, otocincluses, young pterygoplichts and gyrinocheilus, Siamese algae eaters), almost all shrimp (except for filter feeders), snails (except for groundwater and predatory) will not mind eating them. That is, we apply biological method impact.

With an increase in lighting power, diatoms will also retreat, but here it is important not to forget about a decrease in the concentration of nutrients, since green algae will come to the vacant place "under the sun". We use physical method impact.

In aquariums without all of the above animals and in low light, diatoms are removed from the aquarium glass using scrapers, magnets and sponges, decorations and artificial plants removed from the aquarium and washed. used mechanical method impact.

Green turbidity, "water bloom". They occur in aquariums due to a combination of three main factors - the presence of high concentrations of phosphates and nitrates in the water (nitrate above 40 mg / l, phosphate above 2), high temperature (above 27 ° C), and most importantly - the duration daylight hours(more than 12 hours a day). Most often occur in aquariums, where direct sunlight falls throughout the day or does not turn off around the clock artificial lighting, there is no control over the content of nutrients.

First of all, you need to minimize the amount of light entering the aquarium - it is better to darken the aquarium for several days. At the same time, it is necessary to start removing algae from the aquarium using one of the methods described below. Euglena algae without access to light can be dangerous for aquarium animals, because, like all other plants, in the dark they actively consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. In addition, we will use various means to destroy algae - the decomposition of dead cells consumes a large number of oxygen. Therefore, throughout the course, do not forget about active aeration! It is important to keep the aquarium out of direct sunlight. After defeating the algae, reduce daylight hours to 8-10 hours a day and monitor the concentration of nutrients.

Installing an aquarium flow-through UV sterilizer will quickly remedy the situation. At the same time, one should not forget about water changes, since all the nutrients accumulated by algae during their life will be returned to the aquarium water after they are destroyed by exposure to hard ultraviolet radiation. Unfortunately the high cost this appliance does not allow us to classify this method of dealing with "blooming water" as a widespread one.

But there is also a less expensive, but no less effective method of struggle - chemical. The use of certain algicides will quickly get rid of the "water bloom". I will tell you how to choose a drug that is reliable and safe for aquarium animals at the end of the article.

If none of the above can be used, there is an option to use very finely porous filter media, for example, a microfiber cloth or a dense synthetic winterizer. They are temporarily installed in the filter instead of the standard sponge. It is necessary to change or wash them as often as possible (several times a day). The method is not the best, but as they say - "On fishlessness and cancer fish." Useful biological activity must be preserved on a regular sponge, so it is recommended to rinse it in a small amount of water drained from the aquarium, and then let it float freely in the aquarium until the end of the algae control procedure. If the sponge has been washed tap water or left on dry land, it is best to use a Tetra Bactozym capsule when returning the sponge to the filter.

Bright green dots on hard surfaces, singly or merging into a continuous coating. Very common inhabitants of any aquariums - appear in places of intense lighting, usually on the upper parts of the walls of the aquarium closer to the light source, on wet coverslips and reflectors. Removed with scrapers and magnets. Systematic cleaning of these foulings is important, as over time they form a very dense coating, which is very difficult to remove.

In the fight against green dots, a biological method can help - the use of animal algae eaters - for example, those listed in the paragraph on diatoms.

If in your aquarium the xenococus settled on the leaves of plants and the ground, then you have too much power of the lighting device, and it must be reduced. Or to establish the reason for the poor growth of higher plants, for which they cannot use powerful light. I will describe these reasons in detail in the separate material already mentioned by me on the application of the method of competition for nutrients between lower and higher plants.

These algae can be successfully removed with the use of algaecides.

Mucous solid coating of blue-green color with bad smell. They are not frequent guests of aquariums, but one of the most dangerous. As can be seen from the Latin name of the type, these are not algae, but photosynthetic bacteria. The primary reason for their appearance is the lack of movement of water in the aquarium and the presence of a high concentration of nutrients.

In the course of their life activity, they release a toxin dangerous for animals into the water. In addition, they have the ability to bind gaseous nitrogen to build their proteins, which will subsequently lead to an additional accumulation of nitrates in the aquarium. To get rid of these dangerous bacteria, antibiotics are used, removal with a siphon. It is also necessary to ensure the movement of water in the aquarium using a filter and a compressor.

Bright green threads, short pile-like, or long cobweb-shaped and others like that. Rhizoclinium (mucous green-yellow lumps of thin threads) manifests itself at the stage of starting the aquarium - until the nitrogen cycle is adjusted and ammonium is present in the water, then it passes. The rest of the representatives of the threads are not so harmless and can short term fill the entire aquarium. They mainly occur in aquariums with a large number of higher plants, where fertilizers, especially trace elements, are used incorrectly. An overdose of iron in most cases will cause the appearance of one of the threads. Therefore, it is important to accurately calculate the doses of applied fertilizers and maintain an optimal balance between them. If a thread has appeared in your aquarium, this is a signal to revise the doses introduced. In the meantime, you will correct the situation with the growing algae, you need to do something!

The biological method of exposure - animal algae eaters - can work well against threads. Especially in this regard, the amano shrimp is popular, for which green algae is a favorite food. But all this will help only up to a certain extent of the elements - if the algae covered the entire aquarium in a short time - you will have to work with your hands! One of the effective methods of dealing with threads is mechanical. The thread is collected with a stick - algae threads are wound and removed from the aquarium.

It is possible to use algicides, but timely removal of dead algae will be important here - in any case, the threads will force the aquarist to work manually.

Black threads, short and dense - "black beard", long branching - "antler", "flip flops". Perhaps the most famous and heatedly discussed algae among aquarists. They settle not only on the scenery and the ground, which noticeably spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but also actively use the leaves and stems of higher plants for their placement. At the same time, the leaf of the plant suffers from a lack of light and nutrition, which, ultimately, with the rapid development of algae, can lead to the death of the entire plant.

The reasons for the mass reproduction of red algae in the aquarium are as follows: the presence of an excess of nutrients (nitrates and phosphates), high carbonate hardness and pH, strong directional flow, optimal conditions for the growth of higher plants.

If your aquarium has soil and decorations containing a large amount of calcium compounds (marble chips, coral sand, limestone, coral skeletons and mollusk shells), then the development of a black beard and poor growth of higher plants are guaranteed to you. The same goes for using very hard alkaline water for the aquarium.

Red algae love a strong current, most likely because it brings them a lot of food. Therefore, in aquariums where there is excessive water movement, the development of red algae is most likely. The situation will be aggravated by the use of a more powerful filter than the manufacturer recommends for the volume of your aquarium.

A biological method can be used to control red algae - some fish, such as Siamese algae eaters, are able to eat this algae. But for this you need to keep them starving, and not run into "false algae eaters", such as girinoheylus, flying fox and striped garra (only in a real Siamese algae eater, the strip running along the body comes to the caudal fin). In general, this method is not very effective due to the fact that fish begin to eat red algae only when there is nothing else to eat, besides, they do not owe anything to the aquarist and may refuse to eat tasteless algae altogether.

the only effective method in the fight against the "black beard" there will be a change in conditions to be optimal for higher plants and detrimental to algae, simultaneously with the introduction of algicides.

About the choice and use of algaecides in the aquarium

Aquarists very often try to defeat algae with algaecides, perceiving the latter as a panacea. I poured a magic agent into the aquarium - and voila! But this does not happen! Algicides, first of all, help us in the fight against algae, allow us to eliminate the consequences of their appearance, give time to search for and correct the cause of algae growth in the aquarium. By applying an algaecide, we do not solve the problem, but take another step towards solving it.

Algicides from different manufacturers differ in the active ingredients used. It is important for the aquarist to know what the substance is and what properties it has, as some algicides can adversely affect crustaceans, molluscs, sensitive fish and pinnate plants.

Algicides, in which copper sulfate is the active ingredient, are most toxic to aquarium inhabitants, and generally fatal to crustaceans and molluscs. Therefore, their use in aquariums with shrimp is strictly not allowed. Also, copper sulfate has a bad effect on pinnate long-stemmed plants, such as hornwort, pinnate, camobmas and ambulia.

Some preparations contain algicides QAC (Quaternary ammonium cation), which are used in human bathing pools - they are just as harmful to invertebrates and sensitive plants as copper sulfate.

Glutaraldehyde is popular among aquarists, especially in the fight against red algae. I do not recommend its use in an aquarium - after all, this chemical was created and is used to disinfect medical equipment, and not for aquarium purposes. It is extremely effective in its intended use - it has very strong properties and kills almost all bacteria and viruses, but the aquarium should not be a sterile environment, moreover - we try to maintain populations of certain bacteria for biofiltration. No one has conducted research on the effect of glutaraldehyde on the microbiocenosis of the aquarium, nor has anyone studied the effect on humans when stored at home and interacting with the drug when using it.

I used to trust only tested products with proven safety for humans and animals, so I strongly recommend the Tetra line of drugs. The active substance of these drugs is monolinuron. This chemical compound is also used as a herbicide in fields where plants for human consumption are grown. Monolinuron has passed all the necessary tests in the Tetra laboratories and has shown its effectiveness in the fight against algae in aquariums, safety in relation to invertebrates and humans. Tetra algae preparations are available in 4 various forms, for ease of use in various occasions and conditions. liquid preparation, and Tetra Algizit in the form of instant tablets, both preparations contain a loading dose of monolinuron, to quickly suppress the outbreak of algae, they will be effective against euglena, diatoms, green dot algae. Tetra Algostop depot is intended for long-term use - it gradually releases the active substance and inhibits the growth and development of even such resistant algae as "black beard". Tetra algetten is suitable for gentle use in small aquariums and when there are small amounts of algae in the aquarium. It should be noted that Tetra algae preparations do not inhibit biofiltration and do not affect shrimp and snails. The main thing is to use the drugs strictly in accordance with the instructions.

When using any algaecides, it is important to provide the aquarium with good aeration, as well as to remove dead algae in a timely manner. At the time of use of algicides, it is imperative to exclude from the filtration system Activated carbon, zeolite and uv sterilizer. Do not use several algicides from different manufacturers at the same time, do not use fish medicines and conditioners.

Viktor Trubitsin
master of biology, specialist in aquarism, ichthyopathologist.

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With such a problem as algae in an aquarium, more than one hundred or even a thousand avid aquarists struggled, and they all failed. Thus, this problem is eternal, and only significant efforts make it possible to control the reproduction of small unicellular organisms that periodically occupy the underwater kingdom artificially recreated in the house. However, it is by no means possible to leave everything as it is, since algae on the walls of the aquarium not only significantly worsen its appearance, but also significantly harm its inhabitants.

In some cases, the rapid reproduction of unicellular organisms causes the death of both existing plants and fish with snails. There are many ways to reduce the concentration of certain microscopic algae in the aquarium, so the problem needs to be addressed as soon as possible. In addition, there are a number of recommendations that will reduce the risk of a rapid increase in the number of such organisms.

The main reasons for the appearance of algae in the aquarium

It is not difficult to understand why many lovers of creating artificial underwater worlds in the house often face a similar problem. In fact, all types of aquarium algae are widespread in nature and, despite all precautions, can get into the home "pond" with liquid, equipment, plants, stones, accessories, and even the main inhabitants, i.e. fish, snails and other creatures.

Thus, the reasons for the introduction of these microorganisms lie not in the negligence of the owners of such an artificial corner of the wild, because it is almost impossible to prevent this. However, the rapid bloom of aquarium algae is in some way the result of human activity.

First of all, the reasons for the increase in the number of such microscopic organisms lie in the creation of favorable conditions for them. Enough warm water and extended daylight hours, which are required for many underwater inhabitants, have a beneficial effect on microscopic algae, leading to its rapid reproduction.

Various top dressings and fertilizers, which are often abused by inexperienced aquarium lovers, contribute to an increase in the number of such microorganisms.

Moreover, in some cases, the degree of water contamination when creating favorable conditions becomes so pronounced that no chemistry and special preparations can cope with the problem. Thus, if you fight algae unsystematically, and only when the existing inhabitants of the aquarium have already begun to die en masse, the result will be disastrous.

The reasons for the rapid reproduction of unicellular algae lie in the wrong selection of aquarium inhabitants. AT wild nature single-celled organisms do not harm the ecosystem, but are its most important component. Their numbers are controlled certain types shellfish and snails that feed on them by filtering the water. If there are no such creatures in the aquarium, its owner needs to fight algae by proper care and the use of various means.

Without this, favorable conditions created for exotic fish will become an ideal environment for the life and reproduction of unwanted organisms. It is worth taking a closer look at the most common types of algae in the aquarium. In addition, you need to understand the basic methods of dealing with these microorganisms.

Brown algae and diatoms in the aquarium and methods of dealing with them

Often, people who have only recently brought in fish are faced with the rapid reproduction of microorganisms. In young artificial mini-reservoirs, which are less than 3 months old, the ecosystem has not yet been formed, which contributes to the emergence of certain types of unicellular organisms.

Most often, under such conditions, brown algae or diatoms occupy the aquarium.

These microorganisms often begin to multiply rapidly with a lack of light. It is not too difficult to identify these organisms in an aquarium when their numbers increase.

Plants are the first to suffer from diatoms. They can become covered with a specific brown coating in record time. With hard leaves, they can be quickly washed. If you do not fight diatoms at all, in the future a dark film appears on the stones, the algae germinate between the grains of sand lining the bottom and form ugly spots on the walls. As a rule, brown algae in an aquarium do not harm plants and fish. However, you still need to fight them. To prevent diatoms in the aquarium from spoiling general form, the problem can be solved by zoological, mechanical or chemical methods. Each option has its own positive sides and disadvantages.

If the fight against brown algae in the aquarium will be carried out by zootechnical means, then care must be taken to select animals that will ideally fit into the ecosystem and will feed on these unicellular organisms.

Cleaners such as otcinclus and ancitrus cope well with this type of microorganism.

If you want to get rid of brown algae by mechanical methods, then you should prepare a siphon in advance. First you need to change the water, clean the walls of the aquarium with hydrogen peroxide and wipe the leaves of existing plants with it. Sand, stones and other elements should be cleaned with a siphon. Among other things, in order not to observe a repeated surge in the increase in the number of diatoms in the future, lighting should be increased. Special hydrochemical agents are used only for very severe contamination.

How to remove threadworm from an aquarium?

When diatoms are overzealous with lighting, this gives a chance for another type of microorganism. With an excess of lighting for only 5-7 days, filamentous algae in the aquarium become clearly visible, including:

• rhizoclonium;
• spirogyra;
• edogonium;
• clodophora.

They have a similar look. Usually, small green spots first appear on the walls, and sometimes on stones and decorative elements. Green filamentous algae, if you do not take measures to eliminate them, grow rapidly. They are fixed on the leaves of plants. In the future, filiform processes depart from such points. Thus, the elements and areas can become completely covered with a web of very fine green hairs. An increase in the number of filamentous algae strongly affects the microclimate of an artificially created environment. They are not too difficult to deal with, but it is advisable to start taking action as early as possible.

If such algae appeared in the aquarium, how to get rid of them should be dealt with as quickly as possible. First of all, in order to eliminate these single-celled organisms, it is necessary to reduce daylight hours and eliminate excess trace elements. The fight against visible parts of filamentous algae can be carried out using a siphon. Greens are eliminated quickly enough, as it has a very delicate structure.

The fight against algae in the aquarium begins with a decrease in daylight hours to 8 hours. In addition, the dose of fertilizers should be reduced.

In some cases, brushing and reducing the light intensity is enough to make these microorganisms disappear. For fast elimination filamentous algae, you can use special chemicals belonging to the category of algicides. good effect gives Tetra Algumin, but its dosage must be adequate, so you should strictly follow the recommendations in the instructions. In order for the fight against filamentous algae to succeed, it is necessary to deprive them of food. To do this, it is recommended to plant as many aquatic plants as possible.

Signs of xenococus and options for its elimination

This green algae from the aquarium looks very remarkable. It forms colonies in the form of small circles. A provoking factor for increasing their numbers is excessive lighting. It is extremely difficult to remove colonies of these green algae, which are localized on glass.

With plants, this is generally impossible.

In order to remove these microorganisms, it is better to act in a complex manner. First, you should catch all the inhabitants and drain all the water. Severely damaged plant leaves must be removed. Using hydrogen peroxide, the glass in the aquarium can be completely cleaned. In addition, special cleaners can be used to eliminate these algae.

Next, pour into the aquarium new water. Be sure to reduce the length of daylight hours to 8 hours. However, in most cases, if the xenococus has already appeared in the aquarium, it is not possible to eliminate it completely in the future. If frequent repeated bursts of reproduction of these plants are observed, it is best to start using a special chemical agent.

Excellent with these algae, the drug Sidenks copes.

Its dose should be adequate, therefore, before use, it is necessary to study the instructions well. In the future, it will be necessary to periodically clean the glass from the existing small colonies of these microorganisms.

Water bloom from euglena green

Some algae significantly degrade the appearance of the aquarium. Quite often, such artificial mini-reservoirs infect organisms that are widespread in nature, known as green euglena. When these organisms multiply, the water becomes cloudy and begins to bloom. This contributes to the violation of the internal balance in the aquarium ecosystem. In blooming water, the level of oxygen decreases, which negatively affects the fish and other animals that live in such an artificial ecosystem.

The appearance of blooming water is most often observed in spring, when the same process is clearly visible in all natural rivers and lakes.

The real disaster is these microscopic algae for the aquarium, plant species suffer greatly. To eliminate flowering, first of all, it is necessary to reduce the intensity of lighting. It is advisable to cover the aquarium with a cloth for 2-3 days. It will not cause any harm to fish and plants, but microscopic green organisms will die. Next, I remove about a third of the water present in the aquarium. It is replaced with a new one. This will prevent stagnation and allow the restoration of a normal microclimate in this artificial ecosystem.

Options for dealing with the Vietnamese in the aquarium

These algae often appear in young artificial ecosystems where there is no established nitrogen cycle yet. Red algae in an aquarium are usually introduced using equipment and decorations that were previously in an infested environment.

The Vietnamese is extremely dangerous for animals and plants present in the aquarium.

The flip-flop looks like black or red bushes that grow from a variety of surfaces. They can germinate not only on the ground, but also on various decor items, leaves. At the same time, they are fixed tightly to various objects, so it is extremely problematic to give them away. This algae is extremely tenacious. The Vietnamese can live without light for about a month, which greatly complicates the process of dealing with it.

The appearance of such algae indicates that too much waste has accumulated in the aquarium, which serves as food for them. If you do not fight algae in time, then soon all the inhabitants of the artificial ecosystem will die. Get these out in full. aquarium algae extremely problematic. The water should be replaced. In addition, it is necessary to carry out processing with a powerful filter. This will remove the algae and allow the restoration of microflora.

If many algae are disposed of by settling cleaners, then the Vietnamese is problematic to eliminate. Only 1 or 2 types of snails eat them. To eliminate these algae, you can also use the chemical agent Sideks. It is quite effective. But even the use of this drug does not completely eliminate algae, and in the future it will be necessary to control their growth and regularly carry out preventive measures aimed at controlling the appearance of colonies of these microorganisms.

The danger of blackbeard algae for the aquarium

With an increase in the amount of organic waste, another type of microscopic organisms begins to appear. Get rid of pollution in time, otherwise a black beard will start. Green algae are easier to deal with than this one. It quickly spreads along the bottom of the aquarium, attaches to plants and walls. It looks just disgusting, but it is no longer possible to remove these microorganisms from the aquarium 100%. Most types of cleaners, such as snails, are completely indifferent to these single-celled organisms that huddle in colonies, so they cannot prevent their growth. You can effectively deal with them only by using various chemical and technical means. This will prevent them from growing.

First of all, you need to reduce the level of organic matter in the aquarium. First, the surface of the soil is carefully siphoned for this. In addition, it is necessary to conduct a thorough filtration and replacement of water. This will deprive the blackbeard of the nutrients it needs and slow down its growth. Usually the largest thickets of these algae are observed in places with good flow, for example, near the filter tube and on its surface.

To eliminate the manifestations of a black beard, get rid of excessive flow.

In addition, to effectively control these microscopic organisms, it is necessary to plant fast-growing plant species, such as neyas or elodea, which quickly pick up the excess nutrients present in this artificial ecosystem.

To combat algae in an aquarium, it is best to use chemicals. Excellent effect gives the drug Sydex. This remedy must be added to water only 1 time per day. Usually, for a 100 l aquarium, the dose of this drug is 10-15 ml.

The course of treatment is at least 2 weeks.

Once the algae has been eliminated, you should continue to add this chemical for at least 7 more days to avoid a recurrence. If the algae are already resistant to this chemical, a product known as Element CO2 can be used. In most cases, it is not possible to get rid of this type of algae by 100%, and in the future, repeated cases of their appearance will be observed.

So that they do not spoil the appearance of the aquarium and do not harm the local inhabitants, it is necessary to carry out cleaning in a timely manner to eliminate excess organic matter, control the flow level, and also carry out preventive measures. Reduces the risk of an increase in the number of black beard good saturation of water with carbon dioxide.

Deer antler algae and methods of dealing with them

Among the many varieties of microscopic organisms that often settle in aquariums, these are quite rare. However, the growth of these harmful algae can quickly kill existing plants. Deer antlers got their name because they usually settle on leaves that are located near the filters. They form a characteristic edge along the edges of plants, including green and white hairs glued together.

These algae are quite dangerous, as they can quickly damage all plants and disrupt the existing microclimate.

At the same time, it is not too difficult to deal with them. They are well laundered and can be eliminated completely. However, the unicellular micro-organisms that form the filaments quickly disintegrate and, if no other measures are taken, are quickly reborn. It is worth noting that deer antlers really do not like aquariums in which there is a significant level of carbon dioxide. To eliminate deer antlers, chemicals and antibiotics are used. At the same time, cleaners can also be used to combat this type of algae. The Siamese algae eater copes well with this task.

Blue-green algae in the aquarium

In the absence of the proper level of flow in the artificial ecosystem, other varieties of the simplest plants begin to multiply rapidly. The most commonly observed blue-green algae in the aquarium. They are also known as cyanobacteria. These organisms are extremely simple and do not have a cell nucleus. Their reproduction occurs due to the usual division, so their number can increase very quickly if the conditions are suitable for this. Some varieties of cyanobacteria have a mucous membrane, due to which they form a film of a distinctly brown color, which has a very specific musty smell.

Usually, the increase in the number of these microorganisms is associated with the growth of phosphates in water, as well as against the background of nitrogen fixation. If the fight against blue-green algae is not started in a timely manner, they will quickly cover all the elements present in the aquarium with a film and destroy all the inhabitants of this artificial ecosystem.

Cleaners will help clean the ecosystem from an excess of these microscopic organisms.

Some species of snails, shrimps and fish readily eat microscopic creatures.

Considering that blue-green algae usually multiply rapidly against the background of rising water temperatures and an excess of light, these parameters need to be adjusted. Among other things, it is necessary to carry out cleaning, filtration and replacement of water. Such measures are usually enough to stop green algae from growing and reproducing.

If the infection is too large, it is fought with antibacterial agents such as erythromycin. When we get rid of algae chemicals, it must be taken into account that they can negatively affect not only harmful algae, but also the inhabitants of the aquarium, so they should be used strictly following the instructions. Since it is extremely problematic to deal with any kind of algae, it is advisable to follow all recommendations regarding the creation of conditions in such a closed ecosystem.

Methods for preventing the appearance of algae in the aquarium

In order not to think in the future about how to deal with unaccounted for simple vegetation in an aquatic ecosystem artificially formed in the house, it is necessary to take into account many factors. First of all, even if all the inhabitants of the aquarium came from sunny countries where the waters are very intensely illuminated, the day in the aquarium should not exceed 12 hours. Ideally, it should be about 8 hours. The power of lighting elements is of great importance.

To remove nitrates and organic residues, it is imperative to carry out filtration and water replacement. This will prevent an increase in the number of elements that can become food for the simplest algae.

The increase in oxygen levels due to additional aeration is a deterrent to the growth of unrecorded flora.

In order to prevent microscopic organisms from getting nutrients, as many aquatic plants as possible should be planted in the aquarium.

In addition, you do not need to start a lot of fish, since in the course of their life they produce a lot of nitrates, which contribute to an increase in the number of protozoan algae. It is very important to have cleaners. Organisms that eat cyanobacteria include:

• ancistrus;
• moths;
• Siamese algae eaters;
• loricaria;
• otocyclus;
• brocade pterygoplicht;
• girinocheilus
• neretian snails.

The inhabitants of the aquarium should be fed moderately, since rotting remains are an excellent food for the simplest microorganisms, therefore, an increase in the number of such nutrients contributes to their rapid reproduction. Regular cleaning of the aquarium and replacement of part of the water allows you to prevent a surge of flowering water.

How to get rid of algae in an aquarium, and what method of struggle is the most effective, let's try to figure it out in this article.

These recommendations will allow you to clean the aquarium of any kind of algae, in case of their massive damage to aquarium plants. If you have local problems with a certain type, it is enough to determine and remove the cause without resorting to mass actions.

"Blackbeard" is one of the types of algae that is difficult to get rid of.

How to get rid of algae in the aquarium for a long time?

Today, almost any manufacturer of aquarium products offers various algaecides for purchase for algae control. All of them are quite effective. But the result of their application is sometimes very short-lived. What is the problem?

The fact is that algicides remove the consequences, but do not eliminate the causes. In order to completely get rid of algae in the aquarium, it is necessary not only to remove the algae themselves, but also to eliminate the causes of their appearance. Otherwise, they will keep coming back.

Algae removal instructions from Maksimov's Farm:

Stabilize temperature. Often outbreaks of algae provoke a jump in temperature. For example, seasonal climate change.

Physically remove as much algae from the aquarium as possible. It is necessary to wipe the glass, clean stones and driftwood, remove bundles of filamentous algae and severely affected plant leaves. The more algae you remove at this stage, the faster you can get rid of them.

Rinse filter. It is better to do this 2-4 hours after the second step. During this time, he will collect all the dirt and particles of algae, filter the water.

Turn on additional water aeration (compressor). With an increased oxygen content, the growth of algae (for example, blue-green) is inhibited. It is also necessary when using algaecides.

Provide good filtration. If necessary, install an additional powerful internal filter. If there is a strong current in the aquarium get rid of algae much easier.

Turn off the CO2 supplementary system, if used. At this stage, the algaecide will provide the plants with carbon dioxide.

Do a big water change: Change 50% of the tank volume. It is better to change 50% three days in a row. This will help remove nutritional imbalances. Condensers can be used to quickly prepare large quantities of water.

Set the lighting duration to 10 hours per day. Adjust its intensity depending on the further mode of keeping the reservoir. If the lamps have reached their end of life, they must be replaced.

Start adding algaecide. It is better to use algaecides based on glutaraldehyde rather than copper. Since copper is toxic to aquatic organisms and disrupts the balance of trace elements. Apply the maximum dose recommended by the manufacturer. Follow the instructions! Usually algicide is applied for 5-10 days and during this time it is possible to completely .

If the plant biomass is insufficient, it is necessary to buy and replant aquarium plants. Especially the fast growing ones. The more plants, the easier it is to stabilize the aquarium.

Apply macrofertilizers at the rate of 1 mg/l at PO4 per week during treatment and then thereafter.

Apply microfertilizers at the rate of 0.5 mg/l for Fe per week during and after treatment.

After the course algae treatment for aquarium plants do a large water change (50%) and remove dead algae.

Then you need to increase the lighting to 11-12 hours a day.

You can also turn on the additional supply of carbon dioxide (if it is intended to be used) and reduce or turn off the aeration completely.

If there is a suspicion of a lack of CO2 in the aquarium, and the additional supply of carbon dioxide is not used, it's time to increase the number of fish.

Always use the maximum number of cleaners in the aquarium. Two Siamese algae eaters or Otocinculus ordinary + 30 Amano shrimp for every 100 liters will effectively help get rid of algae in the aquarium in their early stages of development.

Strict implementation of all points will allow not only quickly remove algae from aquarium but also to prevent their occurrence in the future. And proper regular maintenance of the aquarium gives additional guarantees.

If you notice brown mucus on the walls of the aquarium, it's time to sound the alarm - harmful algae has started in your pond. She leaves her marks on the bottom and on the leaves of aquatic plants. If you do not fight brown algae, it will clog the reservoir very quickly, worsening the habitat for fish.

What is brown algae

Brown algae are microscopic living organisms that can exist both unicellularly and take the form of colonies. They are referred to as diatoms, which means "divided in half."

This is their structure: 2 halves of a single whole - epithecus (upper) and hypothecus (lower). All this is denounced in a single hard shell. Through its porous walls, the metabolism of brown algae occurs.

Like any protozoan, brown algae reproduce by division. When divided, the daughter cell gets a piece of the mother's shell. And these halves of the shell are able to recreate themselves, dressing both the "mother" and the "daughter" in new armor.

Since the shells are impregnated with silica, they are not able to increase in size. Because of this, each subsequent generation of diatoms is smaller than its ancestors. But they also manage to leave brown raids on any surface of the aquarium.

Among these algae there are also individuals that gather in tubular colonies that have the shape of brown bushes. They grow very quickly, sometimes reaching a height of 20 centimeters. But to a greater extent, they look like flat formations that we perceive as plaque.

Brown algae prefer shady corners of water bodies with an abundance of organic matter. This just encourages them to actively develop. Filling the entire aquarium, this algae deprives other inhabitants of the right to a normal existence.

Reasons for the appearance of diatoms

If the reservoir is new, then the appearance of brown blotches on the walls of the aquarium or the surface of the water in a couple of weeks is considered the norm. The reason is still uninhabited habitat - a fairly high content of carbon and organic matter in the water. Apparently, there are still a small number of fish and green vegetation in the reservoir that would absorb all this abundance.

But if the “brown junta” began to take over the space of the old aquarium, then here one should already think about where the regime was violated.

• Perhaps the aquarium is not well lit - "drillers" are very fond of partial shade.
• The increased content of iodine is also the cause of brown algae.
• Brown algae also receive nourishment from the silicates contained in the reservoir. Their source can be substrates containing silicon, or sand at the bottom of the reservoir.

But no matter which of the reasons that affect the appearance of brown algae, it is necessary to start fighting it immediately, as soon as the first signs of a problem are noticed.

Brown algae control

To make the inhabitants of your home pond feel comfortable enough, get rid of brown algae by all available means. Don't let these "amoebae" breed in your aquarium.

• In a young aquarium, it will be enough to do mechanical work, removing all plaque from the surfaces. To do this, you can purchase a special scraper or take a regular blade.
• From the leaves of aquatic plants, you will have to clean off brown raids simply with your hands. Never use foam or sponge material to remove algae. And do the cleaning carefully so as not to damage the plants.
• Do not forget about the accumulated dirt at the bottom of the reservoir - it is better to remove it with the help of a hose designed for this.
• Remove pebbles, shells, pebbles (when changing water) from the aquarium and rinse them well. Do the same with decorative elements (artificial locks, decorative snags, etc.).
• Rinse should also be under running water and filters, as well as compressor hoses.
• Get a "biological weapon" in the aquarium - fish that feed on brown algae: girinocheilus, catfish ancistrus, Siamese algae eater, etc. Mollusks (neritic olive snail, horned snail) are also good cleaners.

But various chemicals to combat brown "evil spirits" should not be used - harm other inhabitants of the reservoir. But some antibiotics (such as penicillin) can be used. And be sure to put the aquarium as close to the light as possible.

Preventive measures

To no longer have to deal with such a scourge as brown algae, follow the basic rules for caring for home water bodies.

• First of all, ensure that there is sufficient lighting in every corner of the aquarium. If daylight hours are too short, use extra lighting. It is better to use lamps that give red spectral light.
• Always keep the temperature in the reservoir at the optimum level (+ 22-28 0 C) - brown algae like just the opposite, cooler.
• Regularly change the water in the aquarium, monitor its technical indicators (pH, iodine, nitrates, phosphates, silicates). Never use water directly from the tap - only purified water is needed.
• Install filters in the pond that can absorb silicates
• Plant an aquarium with a large number of aquatic plants - they will "take away" part of the nutrition from brown algae, thereby slowing down its growth.
• Aquarists with experience recommend putting zinc and copper products on the bottom of the reservoir. These metals are capable of destroying brown algae.

Every time you do a water change or kelp cleaning, provide the inhabitants of the reservoir with round-the-clock lighting for several days.

How to get rid of brown algae:

Dear colleagues! Very often you can hear such banal things from the lips of beginner aquarists when aquarium plants are called algae. Even taking into account some experience in the aquarium trade, not every fan of the underwater garden really understands the difference between algae and higher plants. In this article, let's deal with this issue once and for all and touch a little on botany.

Lyrical introduction

Many people know that plants are divided into higher and lower. Just algae are considered lower plants. By their nature, algae are the most ancient representatives of flora and fauna that can be found in the aquatic environment. They are divided into multicellular and unicellular and differ in structure. Main distinguishing feature, which is visible in all algae - reproduction by spores.

A wide variety of algae can be divided into departments. The simplest of these are blue-green algae (Cyanophyta). But all the other representatives of the simplest are somewhat more complicated. In the aquarium, you can find brown algae (Phaeophyta), green algae (Chlorophyta), diatoms (Diatomophyta) and red algae with purple (Rhodophyta).

How does this infection get into our aquariums? Is it possible to avoid unwanted guests in your underwater garden at all? You can bring this muck when feeding your pets with live food, with another beautiful aquatic plant and dust. In all of the above points, spores of certain algae can occur. If you examine aquarium water or plaque from the walls of the aquarium with an electron microscope, then you will find a solid broth of protozoa there. They just deliver the real aquarist headache. But if the aquarium is maintained, their concentration is not a threat. If this precarious balance is disturbed for certain reasons, any kind of algae will begin to develop rapidly. Or maybe even several types, it's up to someone who is lucky.

blue green algae

Basically, this type of algae develops under intense aquarium lighting, in the filter media of external filters, airlifts and on the surface. It turns out that a colony of blue-green rubbish most of all loves the aquatic environment in contact with atmospheric air.

Over a long period of evolution, blue-green algae have learned to extract from environment nitrogen and other chemical elements and compounds necessary for their life. This mode of nutrition is called autotrophic. Moreover, they can easily extract organic matter necessary for life from the aquarium water. And this is another way of feeding - heterotrophic. If any organism can eat in two ways, then such organisms are called mixotrophs. The two most common reasons for the development of blue-green algae in aquariums are tanks with intense aeration and an excess of organic matter dissolved in the aquarium water.

How to deal with them?

When dealing with these algae, you may encounter some difficulties, and in particular, not a single orderly fish or mollusk touches them. But all this, in principle, is not very important, you can deal with them by other methods. The most acceptable way is the most optimal mode in the aquarium. If you notice the first signs of the formation of colonies of unwanted neighbors, reduce the intensity of lighting in the aquarium, reduce the time and intensity of aeration, carefully remove all excess organic matter from the aquarium. Alternatively, you can put floating plants ( and ) on the surface. You don't have to do water changes. In such conditions, uninvited guests themselves will die in two or three weeks. This will happen gradually, not all at once. But already dead algae colonies are successfully eaten by mollusks.

If you want to achieve more quick effect from fighting an uninvited guest in your aquarium, then you can’t do without antibiotics and all kinds of dyes. If you combine these drugs, the result will be even better.

Most effective antibiotic in the fight against blue-green algae is bicillin-5. It should be diluted in proportion to one liter of water 10-20 thousand units. The antibiotic goes on sale in bottles, the capacity of which is about one and a half million units. Before pounding the miracle mixture, you need to mix the contents of the vial with 15 ml of plain water. Thus, you can easily dose the drug. The resulting mixture is enough to process from 70 to 150 liters of water in the aquarium.

The antibiotic is introduced only before night, because when interacting with light, it quickly decomposes. Turn off the filters and aerators beforehand, as this will significantly increase the efficiency of processing the jar. The antibiotic bicillin-5 is applied for three consecutive nights. The more the aquarium is contaminated with organic compounds, the more bicillin will have to be added. If the aquarium is more or less clean and there is not much organic matter in it, then 10 thousand units. enough for a liter of water.

If your aquarium has been badly damaged by a blue-green scourge and organic matter is off scale, then a dosage of 20 thousand units is taken. per liter of water. But only you should take into account that when using such a concentrated solution, not only all the algae will go to the forefathers, but also almost the entire microflora of your aquarium. The main part of this microflora is located in the aquarium soil. When using a solution with such a strong concentration of the antibiotic, the biological balance may even be shaken and some plants may suffer. If there are ferns and other grass sensitive to the composition of the water, then most likely it will die.

Four days after the use of the antibiotic, mainly algae begin to die en masse. This moment cannot be missed and immediately rush to remove all this dirty trick from your aquarium by several water changes a week in the amount of 1/3 of the total volume. If you have chosen the wrong proportion (insufficient), then somewhere in a couple of weeks the algae will begin to develop rapidly again.

To enhance the effect of the use of antibiotics, they often resort to the use of dyes: methylene blue, tripaflavin and brilliant green. As practice has shown, the use of bicillin-5 in the proportion of 10 thousand units gives an excellent result. per liter of water and 1 mg of tripaflavin per liter of water.

Using brilliant green or blue, the dye must be added to the aquarium drip until the aquarium water takes on a uniform color, and only after that you need to add bicillin-5 in a proportion of 10 thousand units. per liter of water. As observations have shown, other antibiotics (bicillin-3, penicillin, erythromycin and streptomycin) do not give such a good result, but sometimes one of the above drugs helps better than the fifth bicillin. Here, as they say, only by trial and error you need to select the appropriate antibiotic. To which drug the algae are more sensitive, so crush them.

brown algae

In addition to the above misfortune, brown algae visit our aquariums. They are a dark brown dense coating that covers the walls of the aquarium, plants,. This brown substance greatly spoils the aesthetic appearance of the reservoir and decently shade aquarium plants, which negatively affects their nutrition. To the touch, the plaque is rough and it connects quite tightly with the base, which causes some difficulties in its mechanical removal. Aquarium molluscs are not your helpers in the fight against this scourge, however, orderly fish successfully fight brown algae.

Why do these algae appear in the aquarium? The main reason is insufficient lighting. The only sure way to deal with them is the correct light regime. It is not just that they say that for the normal existence of any aquarium, the correct light regime is needed, which will not allow brown algae to develop in your aquarium. In the fight against brown muck, it is useless to use all kinds of chemicals and antibiotics.

green algae

When summer approaches, in the banks that stand next to the windows, especially those that face east and south, the water becomes cloudy and green. I already have an article on how to get rid of green algae, you can read it. The cause of cloudy and green water is the active reproduction of green algae. You can see this phenomenon at any time of the year if you have a large daylight hours in your aquarium. In the common people, this phenomenon is called the flowering of water.

When the water in the aquarium blooms, plants suffer greatly from this, because green algae strongly shade them and suck out all the nutrients from the water and disrupt gas exchange in the bank. If you limit the amount of light that enters your aquarium, you will significantly slow down the development of green scourge. And if you shade the aquarium for several days, then this usually leads to their complete destruction. But if you sharply restore the previous light regime, then this can serve as a new impetus for the development of uninvited guests.

Why is this happening? The main reason for the resumption of algae development is the disturbed biological balance. If there is no overpopulation in the aquarium, the plants grow superbly and there is no excess of organic matter, then even a long daylight hours (16 hours) does not lead to water blooming. The reason is that in a reservoir in which the biological balance has settled down, higher plants simply do not leave nutrients for absorption by green algae.

Also in the aquarium, green uninvited guests are eaten by the simplest organisms, of which there are plenty in our banks. If the aquas is overpopulated, then the number of protozoa that feed on green "guests" is significantly reduced. Almost all fry eat the simplest organisms, which include the ciliate shoe, which actively destroys green algae. It turns out that the lack of protozoa, which are the main enemies of "colored water", is another reason for the appearance of the latter.

How to deal with water bloom?

Frequent changes of large amounts of water and the use of ordinary filters does not give any results. These methods sometimes help, but when used in conjunction with shading the aquarium. But again, this method can be used if there are practically no fish in the aquarium. Changing large amounts of water can be an impetus for the development of green algae, since fresh water contains a large amount of nutrients, which is in the hands of uninvited guests.

The ozonation of the aquarium has proven itself very well. If the water is treated with ozone in a special container for some time, during which up to 5 volumes of the aquarium pass, one can observe the complete destruction of green algae. After a couple of hours, dead greens will settle on the aquarium soil, after which they must be collected using a hose with a funnel. You can also try to purify the water through aquarium filter, the filler of which is finely porous. The water will not bloom long enough, even though the biological balance is still settled.

You can neutralize flowering with Algoshock. After treatment with this preparation, the green turbidity discolors and white turbidity from dead algae is either precipitated by special coagulants, or after a while it is filtered out by the filter itself.

Colored water can also be treated with antibiotics. Chief Assistant this is bicillin-5. Sometimes you can kill all the muck after one use. The concentration of the drug in water treatment is similar to that in the fight against already known blue-green algae. Penicillin worked just as well. It is introduced in the same dose as bicillin-5 (from 10 to 20 thousand units per liter of water), but it is very important to add it to the aquarium for two to three nights in a row.

As in the fight against blue-green algae, the combination of dyes and antibiotics also gives an excellent effect. If there are not many green algae in the aquarium and the water is not very cloudy, then one application of tripaflavin at a dosage of 1 mg per liter of water may be enough to completely destroy the green unicellular guests.

The order of green algae includes other multicellular and unicellular algae, which often visit our aquariums. The formation of green areas and a green coating similar to pile on the walls of aquariums and leaves of plants indicates that there is an overabundance of lighting in the aquarium. In this scenario, it is desirable to reduce daylight hours to 10 hours. If this does not help and the algae both grew and grow, then reduce the brightness of the lighting.

A certain number of green guests are present even in aquariums in which biological balance has been established, but this does not mean that the reservoir is unfavorable. On the contrary, the presence of green hairy islands on glasses and plants indicates that the reservoir is properly maintained and the aquatic environment in it is clean.

filamentous algae

Multicellular algae can be defeated only by establishing the correct mode of keeping the aquarium. The thread is best removed mechanically from the aquarium, but as an option, you can try a willow branch. There is an article on the blog about this, I did this to myself twice and both times successfully. But if you don’t want to bother, then take a faceted wooden stick and wind filamentous algae on it.

diatoms

Diatoms appear relatively rarely in our aquariums. main feature data unicellular is that they accumulate in themselves an excessive amount of silicon oxide, which contributes to the appearance of a hard outer shell on them. These algae have a rounded shape and are quite dense to the touch. It seems that sand was sprinkled on the glasses and leaves of higher plants. The color of these algae can be brown or dark green.

It is very difficult to deal with them and the known cleaning methods will not help you. Invertebrates do not cause significant harm to these algae. A similar situation exists with orderly fish. It remains only to prevent their appearance by maintaining the correct regime in the aquarium. To begin with, choose the right lighting and keep the water temperature at 24-25 degrees. It is also very important to keep the aquarium clean and change the water regularly. If you do the above operations, then you do not leave any chance for diatoms to develop. In addition, diatom guests have a huge number of competitors that suppress the development of diatom pests.

Algae of the order Compsopogon

All of the above algae have long been known to us and we also know how to deal with them. However, there are still other representatives of the lower ones, belonging to the department of purple (red algae). One of the representatives of red algae has the appearance of filamentous black bundles, the length of the pile of which varies from 5 to 7 centimeters. Fortunately, these representatives of the lower ones can be easily removed from the base on which they grow, so you can clean your aquarium from them without the slightest problem.

But there is another representative of the crimson, which is also considered a compsopogon and is known to the public as "Vietnamese" or "black beard". This pest is a brush with short hard black hairs. You may not be able to tear them off the base, and if they grow on plants, then removing the bunch and not damaging the leaf of the plant will not work in any way. They penetrate so strongly into the tissues of higher plants that it is impossible to tear them off. But we must pay tribute to the algae - it does not cause any harm to the plant, it just grows there.

Compsopogons are mixotrophic plants that can feed on both ready-made organic compounds and independently synthesize organic matter for nutrition. "Blackbeard" can be seen in those aquariums in which the content of organic compounds is high. A Vietnamese can form a fairly dense carpet. The substance itself is coated and slippery to the touch. Rarely, when the length of the pile in the beam exceeds a centimeter in length.

In jars with clean and transparent water, the compsopogon practically does not multiply and is found there only in the form of separate bunches on stones, snags, plants and soil. But in this case, the length of the pile may be slightly longer than usual and the bundle is rough to the touch. No fish and shellfish can help in the fight against them. Even chemicals in the aquarist's arsenal that do not harm the plants can do nothing with the compsopogon. Most effective remedy against the "black beard" is Algimin from Tetra, which can sometimes be purchased at pet stores. The most interesting thing, but this miracle drug works flawlessly on other algae.

You can find on the Internet advice on a sharp change in pH towards an acidic environment, they say this stops development and even destroys the “beard”. Yes, this method has a positive effect on reducing the growth of these algae, but if you change the pH drastically, it will become bad for plants and fish. This pH level must be maintained for a week, but for the inhabitants of the aquarium it is detrimental. However, it is useless to use this method if there is a lot of excess organic matter in the aquarium.

There is also an opinion that compsopogon slows down its growth when the pH rises above 8, and if you increase it to 9 at all, then the algae will die altogether. The alkaline environment is excellently tolerated by both fish and plants. But then again, if there is an excess of organic compounds in aquarium water, even high level A pH of about 9 will not have any effect on the "black beard". It’s just that organic suspensions settle on the “flip flops” bundles, thus isolating it from the harmful effects of the environment.

How to deal with "black beard"

To defeat the "black beard" you need to use a whole range of some activities. Start by making your underwater garden slightly alkaline with a pH of around 8. A more or less alkaline environment will only be maintained in hard water, so it's important to maintain a hardness of around 8.

The next step, which must be taken seriously, is to remove excess organic matter. Reduce the population of the aquarium to a minimum, preferably one fish per 10 liters of water up to 6-7 centimeters. Keep the aquarium purging to a minimum - the main thing is that the jet of bubbles does not pick up organic particles from the ground.

Be sure to change ¼ - 1/5 of the volume of water at least once a week and do not forget to suck the soil with a funnel. If you change the water more often, you will achieve results much faster. It is very important that the added water has the same hardness and acidity as the water in the aquarium. If you comply with the above conditions, then you can get rid of the “black beard” in 2 months. Of course, the compsopogon may again appear in the aquarium after a while, but if it is clean and has a minimum of excess organic matter, then it will not develop rapidly there.

That's probably all I wanted to tell you about unwanted neighbors in the aquarium. I did not climb into the wilds and touched on the main aspects of algae and methods of dealing with them, since the above pests appear in almost every aquarium. Put these tips into practice and your garden will never suffer from algae. See you soon!