Assembling a homemade band sawmill from plywood. Homemade band saw Homemade vertical band saw for wood blueprints

It is used for sawing boards, beams and other similar materials. It is manufactured by many manufacturers who provide the equipment with the best performance. To save money, this unit can be made independently.

What is needed to obtain an efficient band machine?

A home-made tape machine is made according to ready-made drawings, which are in the public domain. To do this, you need something else:

• find several car parts;
• select the appropriate type of rolled products;
• correctly carry out all the necessary locksmith and turning work;
• carry out some manipulations using a welding machine.

To assemble the belt machine, you can use unnecessary pulleys taken from old agricultural equipment. It is best if their diameter reaches 300 mm. It is recommended to use as a guide metal pipes two different diameters. The first should be half an inch in size, and the second a little larger. As a result, one pipe can be put on another and the required gap of 0.5 mm can be obtained.

Making the base for the machine

A do-it-yourself woodworking machine is installed on a base of metal corners. They are fixed in such a position that the vertical shelf looks up. It is necessary to achieve maximum accuracy, which will prevent rapid wear of the impellers.

Racks made of shaped pipes (2.5x2.5 mm) are welded to the installed corners in the perpendicular direction. Between them, another element is mounted. It is a half-inch pipe. It is on it that the claws are installed, designed to secure the logs. These devices must move freely in different directions. To fix the material, it is necessary to hit the clamp with a hammer, which will cause it to jam.

Installation of pulleys for the machine

The presented homemade product cannot work without pulleys. When assembling this structural element, the following rules must be observed:

• home-made pulleys are undermined so that when putting on the belt, it protrudes several centimeters;
• the fabricated structure must move, which is ensured by the presence of horizontal pipe guides;
• to increase the reliability of the assembly, it is additionally fixed with bolts;
• the pulleys are set at a slight angle, which will prevent the tape from slipping during operation of the equipment;
• the right pulley is driven, so a spring is attached to it. During operation, it automatically tightens it;
• the left pulley is fixed rigidly, since it is considered the leading one;
• the diameter of the element is chosen arbitrarily, but the larger it is, the longer it takes to change the saw;
• as a belt, you can use a regular bicycle frame;
• for effective work machine, it is necessary to place two pulleys in the same plane as accurately as possible;
• for fixing the upper element in a given position, it is best to use a self-centering type bearing.

Recommendations for installing the roller assembly for the machine

Homemade band saw on wood will work correctly and without failure when using hardened rollers. The node that they are part of is best done on your own. In this case, you can be sure of its reliability, which cannot be said about the finished mechanism. The design of this node has the following features:

• The mechanism includes three bearings. Two of them are brand 202, the third is a little larger;
• the shaft and rollers are machined taking into account the use of saws of different widths. If necessary, install a washer between the bearings;
• the shaft enters into two tubes installed one into the other, with a slight displacement of the axis;
• roller assembly is installed on homemade machine with the possibility of height adjustment or offset to the side.

table top

Varieties of cutting elements

• wide blades provide high cutting precision. They are used for longitudinal sawing;
• the thickness of the cutting element must correspond to the thickness of the workpiece. Thick saws can damage thin material;
• when performing curved cutting, the saw must have the optimal thickness and width in order to process the workpiece at different angles.

Machine frame and other additional elements

To get a band saw, you need to make a frame. To do this, use 100 mm. The height of the structure is 1.5 m. To strengthen the frame, scarves are additionally used. The block itself, with which the cutting of logs is carried out, will move along the channels due to the presence of stud screws. Bolts with locknuts are used to securely fasten the cutting unit of the machine to its base.

To other elements that must be present in the design cutting equipment include:

• Electrical engine. As a drive, you can use an old power tool (drills, hand saw);
• box for collecting chips and wood dust. Made from ordinary wood or plywood;
• a casing made of wood or metal that covers the upper pulley. Increases equipment safety.

Saw setup

A homemade band saw driven by a drill or a conventional electric motor will not work efficiently unless the saw is adjusted.

This process occurs according to the generally accepted scheme:

• the parallelism of the wheels relative to each other is ensured;
• to prevent displacement in the vertical direction, fluoroplastic washers mounted on the shafts are used;
• the system is launched in trial mode without mounting rails;
• test cut is carried out without load;
• after completion of the adjustment operations, a block is installed to form the direction of movement of the tape.

If the saw of the machine is set up correctly, the wheels move smoothly without jerking. Such equipment will please with great productivity and accuracy, which is especially appreciated among the masters.

Wood is a material in demand in construction: houses and outbuildings are built from timber, floors are made from boards, walls are finished with them. For cutting lumber living conditions band saws are often used. Factory models of equipment are not available to everyone due to the rather high cost. But you can save money by making a band saw with your own hands. Depending on the size and the installed cutting blade, it will also be possible to work with different metals and their alloys, stone, synthetic materials such as polypropylene.

Home inventors proposed various options designs of machine tools with band saws. For self assembly suitable sawmill model with vertical cutting blade, consisting of the following main components and parts:

• frames (framework);
• table for sawing;
• drive;
• pulleys;
• saws.

These structural elements of the machine and smaller parts with basic dimensions are shown schematically in the drawing below.

As a drive, electric motors operating from a 220 V mains are often used..At the same time, the more massive it is planned to cut the workpieces, the more powerful it is recommended to install the engine. Three-phase motors(designed for 380 V) are also used. But for stationary networks, this option is associated with some additional problems: you will need to adapt the electric motor to a 220 V network by installing phase-shifting and starting capacitors for this. Instead of electric, it is quite possible to use gasoline (diesel) internal combustion engines.

The solid cutting blade is fixed on the pulleys. Sawing blanks occurs due to its movement along a closed oval or circular path.

Can do small desktop machine. The jigsaw model is shown in the photo below. Based on it, assembling the device will not cause any problems, even without a detailed description of the entire process.

Important! In the general case, the dimensions of the equipment being created depend on the upcoming tasks that are planned to be solved with its help. For the dissolution of logs into timber or boards, a large-sized unit is required. For owners of apartments with loggias, only a desktop mini-machine is suitable.

Preparatory activities

Before proceeding with the assembly activities, guided by the drawing, you should prepare necessary materials and tools. This will allow, first of all, to find out whether there is everything you need for work (you will need to buy the missing ones), and also not to be distracted by trifles during the process.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a band saw, you will need the following: materials and details:

• boards or a sheet of plywood (or chipboard) from which the frame, table, pulleys will be made;
• sheet steel (for saws);
• a channel used to create a support frame, or metal corners, or wooden bars and slats;
• bearings;
• steel bar - for the manufacture of pulley axles;
• electric motor;
• self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts and washers;
• polyurethane adhesive;
• rubber from a bicycle tube;
• textolite;
• bushings;
• wedge belt;
• varnish or paint.

To work, you will need tools:

• screwdriver (with drills);
• a hammer;
• wrenches (bolt size);
• screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• Sander;
• Bulgarian;
• grinder;
• jigsaw.

Power tools can be easily replaced and manual analogues. But in this case, the assembly will require more time and labor costs. When using metal corners or a channel instead of wooden bars, you will also need welding machine and electrodes. The use of bolted connections creates additional problems with tight fitting parts.

Making a cutting blade with your own hands is quite difficult. For these purposes, tool steel grades U8 or U10 is needed. The saw must be flexible. Its thickness for relatively soft wood species is from 0.2 to 0.4 mm, and for hard wood - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. The length of the blade for the assembled version of the machine will be about 1.7 m. You will need to cut the teeth yourself, properly spread and sharpen them. To solder the tape into a solid ring (while end-to-end), you will need to use gas burner and solder. The connecting seam must be sanded afterwards.

It is much easier and more convenient to purchase a good quality ready-made cutting blade in a store so as not to waste time making it. The width of the products is from 18 to 88 mm. In this case, you need to focus on the material to be cut. Manufacturers offer the following types of saws according to this criterion:

• bimetallic designed to perform work on metal (stainless steel and relatively strong alloys);
• diamond, with which you can saw marble, quartz, granite and other hard materials;
• carbide, allowing processing high-strength alloys;
• from stripes tool steel used for cutting wood.

The latter variety is often equipped with machine tools assembled at home. This is due to its affordability and practicality. But if you have to work with hard materials, then it is better to purchase a saw that is stronger, more durable and more expensive in order to minimize the likelihood of a band break.

If planned with a band saw made make a curved cut, then you need to select the width of the canvas, taking into account the radius of curvature. Some relationships between these quantities are shown in the photograph below.

Advice! For even longitudinal sawing of lumber, wide cutting blades should be used. They allow for a smoother cut.

When choosing a saw for wood, you also need to consider the pitch of her teeth(distance between their centers). The hardness of the wood that can be sawn depends on this. The following are the most common tooth profiles, their markings and applications.

You also need to pay attention to tooth sharpening quality. The cutting edge must be sharp and even. You should also ask the sales assistant about the possibility of sharpening it again and how many times this can be done. For your own safety, it is recommended to give preference to better canvases.

Important! For installation on the machine, it is better to choose universal saws suitable for processing wood of different hardness. This will make it much less likely to change such blades when replacing the processed material.

Steps for making a homemade band saw

To make it easier to assemble the machine according to the drawing at home, the whole process can be divided into separate stages:

• assembly of the frame (frame or bed);
• production of pulleys;
• installation of the cutting blade;
• checking the performance of the created machine.

Before starting assembly work, it is necessary to determine the installation site of the band saw being created so that there are no problems with its placement and power supply. To do this, you may even need a canopy or a special room.

Assembling the frame, table top and bar

The assembly of the C-shaped frame includes the manufacture of a tabletop with a bar for pulleys, a section with an electric motor. Construction details are made according to the dimensions shown in the drawing above. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

• from the boards make a frame in the form of a box (pedestal) with dimensions of 42x72x50 cm;
• an electric motor is installed inside;

• a bar is made from a bar measuring at least 8 by 8 cm;
• they are attached to it at the top and bottom along a support for plywood pulleys, placing them at such a distance from each other that it is possible to conveniently cut workpieces of different sizes;

• connect the cabinet with the frame;
• in the lower support under the pulley, a hole is made (approximately in the center), into which a sleeve with two bearings is then inserted;
• a plywood tabletop 20 mm thick is laid on top (with textolite glued to its working surface and a slot for the cutting blade);
• sheathe the sidewalls so that later it is easy to remove sawdust (waste) and clean the saw.

A hole in the lower support with bearings is needed to connect the pulleys from the motor and from the cutting belt. They will be fixed on one shaft of steel bar. To adjust the height of the machine to your own height, make a stand additionally increasing the stability of the created structure. Using welding, you can make a metal frame

Production and installation of pulleys

The pulleys are cut out of plywood in the form of circles, which are then glued together to make a part 3 cm thick. Three of them are needed in total: one for the belt drive (with a groove), and two for the belt. The latter are made with an edge convex at an angle of 5 to 10 degrees (as in the photo below), so that web self centering during operation of the equipment.

A pulley with a belt drive is placed inside the cabinet.

Its diameter is selected depending on the number of revolutions of the installed engine: it must provide a saw speed of 30 m / s.

One of the pulleys that drive the saw is installed at the bottom, and the other at the top. A hole is made in the center of the latter. Insert the bearing into the sleeve. Using glue and wooden slats, it is fixed in a prepared seat.

The upper pulley is movably attached so that the cutting belt can be pulled. Protozoa lifting mechanism shown in the photo below. Its main structural elements are spring with lever, which is fixed in the desired positions at different levels with bolts.

The lower pulleys are fixedly fixed on one shaft. A belt is put on the leader (transmits movement to the saw from the engine).

After mounting the pulleys, you need to align them so that they are in the same vertical plane. Washers are used for these purposes. The entire setup process is schematically depicted in the photo below.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the diameter of the pulleys that move the cutting blade, the longer it will last, the saw will work better. For these parts with a diameter of 40 cm, a tape with a thickness of 4-6 mm is suitable.

Installing the cutting blade and guides

The cutting tape is fixed on the pulleys. For even sawing of lumber, a home-made machine is equipped with guide mechanism. It is mounted along the side of the blade without teeth. Due to the guide, the tape will not bend with a bar. The easiest way to make this assembly is from three roller-type bearings: one of them is located on the blunt side of the saw, and the other two are on the sides of it. The detailed design of the mechanism is shown in the photo below.

Important! The guides should be almost perfectly aligned at the point of attachment to the support. If this is not done, then even a slight deviation will lead to a rather significant displacement of the tape on the opposite side.

To improve the knot, you can attach delimiters from wooden slats instead of bearings, as well as mount guides under the table top. You will get a mechanism similar to the one shown in the photo below.

It is better to place the guides closest to the workpiece to be sawn, the ideal distance is approximately 4 cm. If you have to process parts of different sizes, then you should provide guide rail adjustment mechanism, which will allow you to change their height from the countertop.

Finishing, setting up and testing the machine

The upper pulley at the end of the assembly of the machine should cover. On the one hand, it improves appearance created equipment, and on the other hand, it will increase the safety of its maintenance (delay the canvas when slipping).

An electric motor with pulleys and a belt drive also needs to be protected from dust and sawdust by a casing. But first it is connected to the network through a start button located in convenient location. It would also be useful for personal safety to supply power to the equipment from a separate differential machine or install it in an electrical circuit. residual current device

After assembly, the vertical band saw needs to be set up and tested. These activities are performed in the following sequence.

1. Pull the belt to the maximum with the help of the upper (driven) pulley.
2. Check that the canvas is at an angle of 90 degrees to the countertop.
3. Remove guides.
4. They perform a test run of the unit and a trial cut, practically without exerting a load on the tape. In this case, the pulleys should rotate smoothly, without any jerks.

After checking, the guides are mounted in place - this will allow you to work with a load on the canvas. Then the equipment needs to be covered antiseptic composition and varnish. Such an operation will protect materials from rotting and extend the life of the band saw.

For the convenience of sawing workpieces to the countertop, it is recommended to adapt guide rail or metal corner. This must be done in such a way that it can be easily changed its position when processing materials of different sizes.

Be aware that skewed bands can cause serious injury and not only prevent the equipment from operating properly.

A homemade band saw, when properly assembled and configured, will provide an acceptable quality of work and increase their productivity. Also, its use allows you to save money: it is more profitable to cut lumber into blanks of the desired size on your own than to buy finished products. If the premises are heated with wood, then thanks to the use of the unit, it will not be difficult to prepare them. When working with self-made equipment, you must always observe safety precautions.

Band-saw woodworking has greater operational capabilities than a conventional hand saw. This unit can be useful for carpentry, woodworking and sawmills. The choice of saw should be made based on your requirements and capabilities.

Manufacturers such as Bukhta, Corvette, Metabo offer a wide range of band saw blades, the blades of which are able to work effectively on wood and allow the master to achieve excellent woodworking performance with his own hands.

The selection is based on several criteria:

• Scope of work performed and frequency of implementation;
• Functions, tasks that the band saw will perform on wood;
• Characteristics of the teeth;
• canvas dimensions;
• Level of sharpening and wiring;
• Manufacturer.

Vertical installation Corvette, devices from Metabo have a number of advantages over homemade devices. Corvette with Metabo are among the leaders of the domestic market.

The choice largely depends on what material you have to work with. Metal work requires the use of an appropriate blade.

Working with metal involves the use of bimetallic blades. Bi-metal cutting tools excel in medium and low carbon steels. You can use bimetallic blades for woodworking, but it is better to equip the Corvette saw with a specialized cutting component.

Choice by scope of work

1. For industrial purposes, where the work of the saw practically does not stop, the choice should be made in favor of powerful, productive models such as Metabo, Corvette, Bay. Such saws have highly efficient blades, devices have excellent strength parameters.
2. For do-it-yourself work in domestic conditions, a small workshop, the choice tends to simple Corvette, Metabo models, which are characterized by medium strength, but are able to provide the desired quality of processing with their own hands.

canvases

The choice of canvas should be made on the basis of its length, width, performance characteristics the saw itself Corvette, Metabo, etc. It is important to compare the parameters of the equipment and the cutting tool installed on it.

If you can’t find the information you need in the instructions, take into account a few basic points.

• Thin canvases are quickly deformed if work is done with rough products;
• Wide blades provide an even cut. The wider the canvas, the better the work will turn out;
• Thick blades are not suitable for working with thin workpieces. There is a great risk of damage;
• To perform shape cutting or contouring, you need to match the width of the cutting tool and its ability to enter the material at a certain angle.

teeth

Regarding the teeth of the selected blade for a band saw, there are recommendations.

1. A large number of blade teeth ensures high-quality cutting of thick-walled workpieces.
2. Blades with a small number of teeth minimize the load that affects the entire area of ​​the sawn blade.
3. Tools with multiple edges help distribute stress evenly throughout the bandsaw.
4. Modern manufacturers produce blades, the number of teeth on which varies between 3-24 units.
5. The large blade teeth are designed for deep cutting.
6. If the edges of the blade have a small height, they effectively cut thin-walled products.
7. An equally significant parameter for choosing a tape is the pitch of the teeth.
8. A large step is relevant when processing thin sheet products of small formats.
9. Frequent steps allow the belt to cut large canvases.
10. The variable pitch is designed to work with soft materials.

sharpening

Bimetal, woodworking bandsaw bands need to check the quality of sharpening. Competent sharpening is checked based on three parameters.

1. The sharpness of the teeth. The better the sharpening, the sharper they will be. Just check the level of sharpening with your own hands is not worth it.
2. Homogeneity of woodworking material. If there are no blurs on the tape, the metal is homogeneous, then sharpening should be of high quality.
3. line uniformity, correct angle. If the sharpening of the edges is done well, but the angle between the cutting edges is broken, this will significantly spoil the quality of the workpiece. The angle between the cutting edges must match technical specifications selected tape. Each of them is characterized by a certain angle and features of sharpening.

Before buying a do-it-yourself saw, be sure to ask if it is possible to sharpen the tool if it wears out as it is used. For most modern band saws, sharpening is a common activity. The instruction is not complicated, which allows you to do the sharpening with your own hands and get the right angle.

But some saws have a strict angle, a clear angle between the cutting edges, in case of violation of which the saw will not be able to return the operational primary capabilities.

Wiring

Wiring is the bending of the cutting blade at a certain angle in different directions. Due to this, the level of friction is reduced, and the web is prevented from pinching.

There are several types of wiring.

1. Standard. The standard divorce provides for the opposite bend at an angle of the cutting elements on different sides. This wiring is relevant for saws working with hard materials.
2. Wavy layout. it complex structure. Here divorce is characterized by a variable meaning. The peculiarity lies in the formation of a kind of wave. Not the entire saw blade is bent at a certain angle, but some part of the top of the blade.
3. Protective wiring consists in bending two cutting blades. The third remains in place. Used for belts that work with the hardest materials. Every third tooth has the shape of a trapezoid.

The wiring is carried out so that the teeth have a deviation not exceeding 0.1 mm. If the setting is not done, the saw will be uneven, which will adversely affect the operation of the band saw.

Homemade or factory

It is not uncommon for craftsmen to think about how to make a homemade tape machine. Drawings are widely available on the net, reviews speak of the possibility of assembling the device with your own hands.

But drawing alone will not allow you to correctly assemble a band saw. A home-made vertical installation has a number of features that only an experienced specialist can master.

It is recommended to start with mini band saws, the assembly of which provides for a fairly simple drawing. You will be able to repair, upgrade, sharpen cutting tools with your own hands. Take as a basis detailed drawing with all the required build options. Having made a mini machine, you can gradually move on to more serious units.

Factory models are preferable due to the presence of such manufacturers as Metabo, Corvette. Corvette and Metabo companies offer a wide range of band saws, from mini to industrial. It is easier, safer and more convenient to work with them with your own hands.

If repairs are needed, please contact service center, or carry out repairs with your own hands according to the factory instructions.

Factory tape machines preferable to homemade. They win in almost every way. The exception is the price. The estimated cost of a band saw manufactured by Metabo, Corvette is from 20 thousand rubles.

Any construction or major repairs are unlikely to do without boards and various bars. In this case, all this material must be cut to the desired size.

Of course, you can buy ready-made boards or bars. But this will require large financial costs. Therefore, many home craftsmen and professionals prefer to do everything themselves.

And for this you need the right tool, for example, a band saw. And in this case, you should not immediately run to the store to buy a machine.

If you have a little experience, then you will definitely get a homemade band saw. And the technology of its manufacture will be discussed in this article.

Preparatory stage

A do-it-yourself band saw will cost less than its factory version. But in order to make everything right, you should first deal with the design itself. The band saw is designed for sawing large diameter wooden workpieces. As a rule, with its help, boards or bars are made from logs.

The design itself is a frame on which the electric motor and pulleys are mounted. The first is necessary for the rotation of the pulleys on which the cutting blade is fixed. It is with its help that the workpiece is cut.

Before starting work on creating a band saw for wood, it is worth making a drawing. With it, all further work will be faster and clearer for you.

1 - lower drive pulley; 2 - bed; 3 - band saw; 4 - V-belt A710; 5 - damper; 6 - guide; 7 - carrier rod; 8 - upper drive pulley; 9 - table, 10 - electric motor (AOL-22-2); 11 - belt drive pulleys; 12 - bracket; 13 - nut M12, 14 - upper support; 15 - adjusting screw; 16 - slider

• metal corners, profile pipes, channel bars and rolled products;
• electric motor;
• pulleys from old agricultural machinery. Best suited are those that have a diameter of 30 centimeters;
• sheets of plywood or chipboard to create a cabinet;
• the cutting blade itself;
• welding machine and metalwork tool

You must first make a frame (according to the previously drawn up drawing). It is made from a channel (100) by welding. The height of the frame should be about one and a half meters. It is also desirable to make a box under the frame, chips will be collected in it. This design is easy to make from sheets of plywood or chipboard.

carrier bar

Upper belt drive pulley

The damper is necessary to dampen the oscillations of the tape. Made from textolite.
1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strap, 4 - nut with washer

The guide is for correct filing workpieces

A homemade band saw consists of several basic elements. First of all, it's a frame. It is on it that the rest of the components will be attached. An electric motor is mounted on the frame, which is connected to the pulley. You also need to make a device for feeding a log (or other wooden blank) for cutting.

Let's move on to the pulleys. They are used in the design of two pieces. In this case, the right pulley will be driven, so it does not require rigid fixation. It must be equipped with a spring, which is responsible for the tension of the web. The left pulley, which is the leading one, is fixed rigidly in its place.

The pulleys themselves are mounted on special guides made of pipes. In this case, it is necessary to provide for their fixation with bolts. The pulleys must be sharpened so that the edges of the tape protrude a couple of centimeters. Also, the cutting blade itself is installed with a slight slope. In this case, it will stretch itself, which will prevent the tape from falling off during the operation of the machine.

Belt tension mechanism: 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider, 17 - cover, 18 - M4 screw, 19 - bearing 60203, 20 - gland seal, 21 - end washer, 22 - Grover's washer

Saw band attachment unit (lower pulley)
1 - lower belt drive pulley, 4 - V-belt, 7 - carrier rod, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 19 - bearing 60203, 23 - washer, 24 - M6 locking bolt, 25 - spacer bushing, 26 - axle box housing, 27 - axle box cover, 28 - shaft.

Box for the tape machine

Drive shaft of the tape machine

After preparation, all parts are mounted on the frame. The pulleys are connected to the electric motor using a belt drive (you can mount a chain drive). Next, the power buttons are installed and the manual band saw for wood is ready for use.

Highly important element such a machine is a cutting blade. Some craftsmen make a saw with their own hands. To do this, you can purchase special blanks from steel strips. Further, using templates, sharpening is done.

Place of soldering

Blanks are produced in the form of strips, and a “ring” is needed for the machine. For this, the workpieces are welded. This requires a complex method. The fact is that the overlap should not work out. The connection of the strip into a single ring is done end-to-end. After welding, the joint is carefully polished.

Such complexity of manufacturing a cutting blade forces many to buy ready-made saws. Today, there are a wide range of such products in stores. The main thing is to choose the size of the cutting blade so that it fits your pulleys.

In addition, when choosing a saw, you should pay attention to the thickness. The larger this indicator, the greater the radius of curvature of the web. For a more accurate selection, you can use special tables.

A DIY band saw can quickly recoup the time and money spent on its production. But this will be true if you follow the recommendations for the operation of such equipment. Experts give such advice:

the cutting blade must be properly tensioned. The magnitude of this tension will depend on the grade of steel used in the manufacture of the saw, as well as its width. This indicator can be measured using special device- "Tyrzometer";

do not think that the saw will be able to work continuously for a long time. Experts recommend the following mode of operation - two hours of sawing, then the canvas is removed and hung out in a free state for 12-24 hours. In this way, you can extend the life of the saw;

always use a lubricant, especially if you are sawing fresh wood. Freshly felled trees produce abundant resin. Its mass begins to clog the incisors. As a result, the saw begins to warm up and quickly fails. For lubrication (and simultaneous cooling), you can use ordinary water with the addition of a simple detergent. AT winter period experts recommend using a mixture of diesel fuel and engine oil;

Loosen the cutting blade after finishing work. When cut, it heats up and expands a little. After the end of work, the canvas begins to cool and decrease in size. If you leave it in a taut state, then marks from the pulleys will form, in place of which scuffs will subsequently turn out;

follow the rules for sharpening teeth. Both the speed of the work itself and the service life of the cutting blade will depend on this. Also, make sure that the teeth are always well sharpened and their correct divorce is observed.

It is also necessary to strictly observe safety precautions. A band saw is a rather traumatic piece of equipment. It is best to equip it with a protective cover. Such an addition will increase the safety of work, and help to improve the removal of sawdust.

Also, carefully consider the choice of the installation location of the machine. Of course, a homemade band saw does not take up much space. But still, there should be enough space around for free movement.

In addition, take care of high-quality lighting of the workplace. Quite often, such a machine is installed on the street. In this case, try to work only during daylight hours or with a good street lamp.

From the video you will learn how to make a band saw with your own hands from available materials.

Saw wheel manufacturing

The saw wheels have a diameter of 400 mm. They just need to be made from plywood or MDF. My wheels are 29mm thick. I glued them from three plywood circles. The most responsible section here - central part wheels. The blanks were cut using a milling machine. In the center of the circle, I drilled a hole 0 6 mm and installed the center of the milling compass in it. Then this hole was used for combining blanks and gluing. Cut circles with an allowance of 10 mm for finishing. Shafts 0 25 mm (for purchased bearings) were made for me by a turner. They have a limiter on one side, and on the other - internal thread M12. For the manufacture of flanges used plywood. Before drilling holes in them for the bearing, I drilled a hole of 0 6 mm in the center and, aligning it with the center of the wheel, drilled four holes for the dowels. The position of the flange on the wheel marked. The flange consists of two parts. The 15 mm thick outer part holds the bearing, while the 10 mm thick inner part forms a gap between the wheel and the bearing. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be slightly larger diameter shaft. The most important operation is drilling a hole with a diameter of 52 mm for the bearing in the outer part of the flange. Especially for this, I bought a hole saw 0 52 mm and after checking it, I ground it on the outer diameter by 0.3 mm. The bearings were then pressed in with a mallet. Before gluing the flanges to the wheel, I cut out the lower wheel shaft holder - wooden block with a hole for the shaft, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. Drilling a hole directly in the frame is undesirable: it is likely that the drill will lead away. The holder is easier to turn to the desired angle for correction. I drilled four technological holes in the wheels so that clamps could be threaded through them when gluing. Immediately after gluing the wheel put it on the shaft. Thanks to the pre-centering of the flanges and drilled holes under the dowels, one of my assembled wheels had practically no runout, but the second had an uncritical “eight” up to 3 mm. To fit the wheel to the size of the diameter and to form the profile, it was necessary to connect the wheel to the engine. At the first stage, I used a temporary plywood pulley - I screwed it with screws to the wheel. I machined the pulley for the engine using the engine itself, and then connected the engine and the temporary wheel pulley with a belt. Having fixed the wheel, I screwed a wooden block as a stop and turned the wheel to 0 400 mm with the help of turning tools. It is difficult to control the diameter of the wheel on the shaft, so I measured the circumference. It is equal to 1256 mm. The machined edge of the wheel was barrel-shaped. Thanks to this, the tape does not slip off the wheel, but, on the contrary, self-centers on it. The bevel angle should be 5 degrees on each side.

12. When all the details were ready, I glued the flanges to the wheel. 13. I used the lower shaft mounting block as a holder. 14. Wheel turned to desired diameter giving the edge a barrel shape. The bevel in each direction is approximately 5 degrees. 15. After pre-assembly of the wheel. 16. Guide complete with thrust bearing blocks. 17. A guide with an upper support bearing has been installed, but so far without “crackers”. Rubber chambers are stretched over the wheels (after the final assembly they need to be glued). 18. The desktop support is equipped with one-plane adjustment. tilt mechanism

Having made both wheels, I installed a standard drive pulley on one of them (read about a similar solution). Its thickness and shape was adjusted to the belt used, and the diameter was calculated so that the speed of the saw blade was approximately 800 m / min. Now all that was left was to balance the wheels. To do this, I took bearings with an external 0 22 mm. They were then used as support for the saw blade. Having fixed the temporary axis horizontally and putting bearings on it, he set the wheel so that it rotated easily, and its heaviest part fell down. With a Forstner drill, I made small indentations in the lower zone of the wheel from the back. As a result of such manipulations, I made sure that the wheel stops rotating in any position. This completes the balancing act. Wheels varnished in two layers.

Then I pulled cut chambers from 16″ wheels of a children's bike onto the wheels. The rubber protects the wheel surfaces from being damaged by the belt, reduces noise and prevents slippage. Balancing, however, had to be repeated.

Mounting wheels on the band saw frame

Installed the top wheel first. I put PTFE washers on the shaft. The wheel was fastened with a bolt with a thick washer, screwing it into the end of the shaft. Adjusting bolt set the upper wheel parallel to the frame. I fixed the lower wheel block on the frame with clamps and hung the lower wheel. With the help of a ruler and fluoroplastic washers, I set the wheels in one plane. By shifting the lower block, I ensured that the line connecting the centers of the shafts was parallel to the vertical rack of the frame. This operation was performed with a regular saw blade installed. After setting, the lower shaft mounting block is fixed. After checking the rotation of the saw manually, I decided on a test run. Being careful, I turned on the machine. The tests were successful. The tape moved in the middle of the wheels, no vibration and suspicious noises. Replacing the canvas with the narrowest one, I conducted a second test. It was possible to glue the base under the engine and attach it to the frame.
21. A work table with a zero clearance plate and a saw tension knob were installed. The machine is ready for testing. 22.The desktop can be tilted to the desired angle. The support screw for adjusting the position of the desktop is visible. 23.Strong frame of mobile cabinet-stand.24.Protective engine screen.

Adjusting the saw blade guides

The smooth end of the saw blade rests against the outer ring of the bearing, and “crackers” hold it from the sides. At first I made "crackers" from PTFE, but they quickly wore out. Therefore (on the advice of the author) I replaced them with wooden ones. As a protective casing, I used a rectangular duralumin pipe, cutting it with a circular saw. The casing was screwed to the tire with self-tapping screws. The bar must be set with high precision, since with a length of 300 mm even a slight misalignment in relation to the saw blade will be noticeable. To mount the tire in the frame, I chose a groove. The markup was carried out on a stretched wide canvas. Then he specified the marking of the groove according to the size of the guide rail. But no matter how hard I tried, when choosing a groove, I made a mistake of 0.3 mm, which led to an error at the bottom point of almost 4 mm. Therefore, I cut out a corner from the rest of the duralumin pipe, expanded the groove in the frame to its thickness, and to correct the position I glued several pieces of self-adhesive paper 0.1 mm thick. Having achieved the desired result, fixed the corner with self-tapping screws. The latch has two holes. One main one is for the maximum tire pressure area, the second is used only with very thick workpieces in order to maximize the tire.

Making a desktop for a band saw with your own hands

First, I made a support with a table tilt mechanism. Made it from oak wood. It is attached to the lower block of thrust bearings. I attached a chipboard lining to the rotary mechanism of the table to increase the rigidity of the table. On the table itself, I put a piece of chipboard worktop. It is quite thick and durable, and its surface is smooth and slippery. Edges sheathed with beech slats. AT working area I sawed a rectangular hole in the table, and then milled a recess for an MDF insert. I installed the insert with the saw turned on: I put the insert into the grooves and pushed it all the way, while sawing it to the desired length. When the table is rotated at an angle, I either remove the insert altogether, or make a new one at a specific angle. I made a knob on the nut of the web tension mechanism. I set the tension force by eye - it is almost impossible to tear the canvas. To make it more convenient to set the table perpendicular to the canvas, I made an additional stop for the table. A self-tapping screw screwed into the stop allows you to adjust the position of the table. And so that the sawdust does not stick to the wheels, I installed a cropped toothbrush to the bottom wheel.

Making a cabinet for a saw

I chose the dimensions of the cabinet based on the dimensions of the base of the saw, and adjusted the height so that the table was at a level of 1,050 mm from the floor - this is just right for me. The curbstone was made from scraps of a tongue-and-groove floorboard 35 mm thick. The frame of the pedestal was assembled on dowels. Reinforced the corners from the inside with metal corners. Side inserts - from laminated chipboard. The back wall is made of MDF. In general, everything from scraps. The top drawer of the cabinet serves to collect sawdust. The curbstone is established on wheels with a possibility of their fixing.

25. The right wall of the lower wheel housing is beveled at the top to make it easier to change saw blades. 26. The rear wall of the lower wheel guard is tilted and guides the sawdust into the box. 27.The parallel stop is fixed on the desktop. Installing the protection. 28. This is how the protection of moving parts looks like.. The start button of the saw and the backlight switch are installed.

Protective covers and elements of the saw body are at the same time guides for removing sawdust. All working elements of the saw are protected by screens. As a material for casings and screens, I used MDF 8 mm thick and pine boards.