Frequently asked questions about the parquet board. How to choose a parquet board: basic recommendations How to use parquet

Laying boards on plywood

Plywood is the best substrate for laying parquet boards. To improve stability floor covering plywood must be laid in a certain way, namely: first, the plywood must be divided into small squares (or rectangles) with sides of about 50-80 cm, and then laid so that the joints between the plywood and the joints that will be between the boards are at an angle of 45º in relation to each other. That is, for example, if the board is planned to be laid parallel to the walls of the room, then the plywood should be laid diagonally (at an angle of 45º). Plywood is attached to the base (or to the joists) with self-tapping screws. For 1 sheet of plywood with a side of ≈ 60-70 cm, 9 self-tapping screws are required. And yet, between the sheets of plywood, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5-10 mm. This is necessary so that when the geometry of the plywood changes (natural expansion with increasing humidity), the sheets do not rub against each other and do not cause a creak. between plywood and parquet board a special material is laid - the substrate.

Laying parquet on a concrete base (screed)

Parquet can also be laid on a screed. In this case, it is necessary that the screed is strong, dry, even and clean. It is desirable that the compressive strength of the screed be at least 10 MPa. To measure the strength of the screed is used special device. To check the evenness of the base, a two-meter perfectly even rule with a level is used. For laying parquet boards, it is desirable that the height difference along the plane does not exceed 2 mm. for 2 linear meters. The screed can be considered dry if its moisture content does not exceed 2%. If this figure is higher, then either you need to wait until the screed dries, or use a special vapor barrier primer, for example, Berger Primer P. When laying the board on the screed, it is better to use the Parkolag underlay, as it has good waterproofing properties and will prevent the penetration of moisture from the screed into the parquet. If the screed is dry, cork or synthetic underlays (such as Tuplex) can be used when laying parquet, which do not have such good waterproofing.

Laying parquet boards on old parquet, ceramic tiles, linoleum, etc.

The great advantage of a parquet board (or laminate) is the possibility of laying them on almost any flat surface. Laying a three-layer board, like many other floor coverings with a key connection, occurs in a "floating" way. This method does not require gluing the parquet to the base, the parquet is easily assembled and dismantled. Requirements for the base, whether it is old parquet, ceramic tile, or other old flooring, do not differ from those that we examined above: the base must be flat and clean (it should be well vacuumed before laying). That it must also be dry and durable goes without saying. It is also important to choose the right substrate, since all substrates have different characteristics. The issue of choosing a substrate for parquet is considered by us in a separate article.

From this article you will learn:

• What are the ways of laying a parquet board?
• How to lay parquet board yourself

Repairs in Moscow must be taken seriously. It is necessary to clearly define the type of flooring that you would like.

Using parquet as flooring is not only good way declare their wealth and status. It is also an opportunity to demonstrate to others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet as a coating is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, in order to lay parquet, it was necessary to work hard, while possessing certain skills. Now, thanks to the appearance of a massive parquet board, everything has become somewhat easier. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then the process of laying it will not be too difficult for you. Today we will talk about how to lay a parquet board.

At the moment, there are two types of parquet boards on sale: massive and multi-layered. The difference between them is in the way they are made.

• massive parquet boards are made from different types of wood, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it, a single piece of wood is taken. Grooves and ridges are made along the ends of the board.
• In the manufacture multilayer Several types of wood are used in parquet boards, each with its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, the output is a parquet board with high operational characteristics. So, upper layer parquet is made from hard and precious woods, because it will be "responsible" for appearance gender. The middle layer of the plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using soft wood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for its neighbors. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

The parquet board for laying goes on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multi-layered or massive, its service life depends not only on the production technology and storage rules, but also on the correct installation. You cannot influence the first and second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even do the laying of the parquet board yourself.

But for such a flooring to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out a certain kind preparatory work. It is also necessary to strictly comply with all conditions technological process. What points should be paid attention to first of all?

• Firstly, inspect the base on which the parquet board will be laid. Invalid different kind cracks, crevices and depressions. The base must necessarily be flat and solid, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per running meter is the maximum that can be allowed. A base that does not meet the requirements should be repaired or completely remade.
• Secondly, the parquet board should "adapt" to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after acquiring a board, it is not recommended to immediately begin work on laying it. Wait at least two days.
• Thirdly, an important condition for the successful laying of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity adversely affects this material, and therefore you should not lay parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
• Fourth, again about humidity. During operation, it is desirable to observe a certain level of it (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature must be at least 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
• And the last by list, but not by value. When laying a parquet board, in no case should you forget about the substrate and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the premises and the foundation do not play a role here, this must be done in any case.

In addition one little advice: do not lay the parquet board perpendicular to the rays of light. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.

How to lay parquet board in different ways

Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on the appearance of products, but also on methods that can significantly facilitate the installation process. All new lock systems are produced. There are several main types:

1. A connection considered classic when the spikes enter the grooves.
2. The planks are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which, by pressing the plates, they are fastened together.
3. This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting elements is the same. A “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. Otherwise, it may just be an additional insert. Be that as it may, but thanks to such a fixation, the entire hitch becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also this system prevents divergence of planks due to seasonal changes in the environment.

Depending on which locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing material for flooring, be sure to check if it is available detailed instructions for installation. If the product is of high quality, it must be attached to the packaging.

How to assemble a multi-layer wooden coating?

There are several methods most popular:

• Laying parquet boards on logs.
• Fastening with nails.
• Laying on a rough wooden floor.
• glue method.
• A floating method in which parquet boards are connected with a lock.

The locking system has recently been used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small rooms. Glue, on the contrary, is used less and less in such works. The fact is that laying parquet in this way is a very laborious work, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.

Massive parquet is attached to the subfloor mainly with nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you put parquet boards on logs, the distance between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite laborious. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done by hand.

To decide which styling method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.

floating way

Many people have a poor idea of ​​how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets 20 mm thick are rigidly attached to the floor. A waterproofing is placed on top, which can be used as polyethylene in 200 microns. It is necessary that the entire surface be covered with waterproofing. To do this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued with tape. The film should also go onto the walls - by about 10-15 cm. Dense polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam or cork mats should be placed on top of the waterproofing. In the first case, the substrate, as well as waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. In the second and third mats should be placed end to end, but apart.

Sheets of plywood should also be laid apart, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. From the walls should be 10-15 mm. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonal. In the latter case, the material will need a little more. Before you start laying parquet boards, do all necessary calculations: how much material is required, which direction will be optimal. It is necessary to plan everything so that the plates in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards with spikes and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance for the expansion of the material by 1.5-3 cm.

When laying the first row of boards, remove the spikes from them directed towards the wall. Direct the spike of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through the bar!) to achieve a tight connection with the neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.

When laying the second row of parquet boards, offset the end seams by a third of the length of the plank. This is called side-by-side mounting. To start, make the first board in the second row shorter by 1/3. Assemble the row completely, then dock with the first. Also, insert the spikes of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and seal the joint by tapping it through the bar with a hammer.

By the way, the step of the run can be chosen at your discretion. But if you decide to make it just like that, then the first board in the third row needs to be shortened already by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all the dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same cycle of laying parquet boards.

Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies to the desired width. When doing this, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After that, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.

One important nuance. For greater strength of the joints, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.

Adhesive

With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. Then, with a notched trowel, glue is applied to it, preferably two-component polyurethane. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although it is completely safe for humans after drying. Small sheets of the substrate are laid apart on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Further, all parquet boards are planted on the glue - according to the same technology as with the floating laying method.

Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram, according to which in the future you will glue parquet boards to plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but are joined one at a time. Glue must be applied both to plywood and to dies, the grooves at the ends of the boards must also be filled with this composition.

Then we act according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board with the help of a lock to the previous one, align and compact it with a hammer and wooden block. We additionally strengthen the panels with pneumatic nails in the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface, it should be removed immediately. We fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with cork. After that, we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil and wax or varnish. We attach skirting boards along the walls.

This method of laying parquet boards is mainly used for rooms with a large area.

With fasteners

How to properly lay a parquet board using this method? Just as with floating laying, waterproofing and insulation of the concrete screed is necessary. Boards are connected in the same way. The only difference is that you can put dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet both to the wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, then keep in mind: the logs must be wide enough so that the joints of the parquet boards can easily fit in their middle. Optimal Distance between lags - from 30 to 40 cm.

They are fastened to the concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws with dowels. The dies are connected to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. So that nothing interferes with the installation, they must be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.

How to lay a parquet board with your own hands

To work, you need to have the following available:

1. Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
2. Combined or coniferous PE substrate, 2-3 mm thick. Another one will do, but the manufacturer must be the same as that of the parquet.
3. A bar to compact the boards, a mallet.
4. Tool to fix joints (for laying parquet board with 5G locks).
5. A metal staple or wringer for laying the last row.
6. Adhesive sealant, carpentry or PVA.
7. Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
8. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
9. Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
10. Level and hygrometer.
11. Adhesive or reinforcing primer.
12. If necessary, then a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.

Foundation preparation

First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine whether the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:

• Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
• Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or the like.

Having prepared the base for laying, check it for moisture using a hygrometer, and with a long rail (more than 2 m) - for evenness. Small imperfections can be filled with quick-drying mortars or cemented.

Next stage- primer:

• If laying the parquet board will be done with glue, use adhesive compounds.
• If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.

Is the floor base wooden? Then you need to cut off all the bumps from it (you can use a parquet grinder). Fill the hollows with elastic putty. If the boards "walk", pull the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.

Preparation for work

Surface prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and substrate material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Glue the joints with adhesive tape. Attach a substrate (sheet or roll) on top. Lay it upside down. If you are planning to glue the parquet board, this step should be skipped.

After purchasing the material, give it time to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If a “warm floor” is installed in the apartment, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before the start of work. With this maneuver, an ideal climate for laying parquet boards is created and at the same time thermal damage to the final finish is prevented.

One important point. If, when opening packages with a parquet board, you find that some products are slightly different in color and texture, that's okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore this sometimes happens. Turn this to your advantage by making an interesting pattern out of the boards.

Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably on a scale. The last row should be at least 5 cm wide.

Floor covering installation

When laying parquet flooring using the floating method, start work from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave space around the perimeter of the room for expansion wedges. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards with the help of a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.

Next, at the boards in the first row, cut off the spikes directed towards the wall. Install the first tile in the corner and proceed with the assembly along the ends. If the last plate is bigger size than you need, cut it off. Start laying the second row from the rest of the lamella of the first. If you plan to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after joining the boards with the butt, fasten them along the length, while certainly knocking them through the bar with a mallet or hammer.

By the way, working with Lock and 5G lock systems is much more convenient. All thanks to the ability to join them both along and across.

There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to adjust the plastic insert. Just click on the plates and you're done.

With the last row of dies, you will have to tinker a little. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be cut. After that, the tiles are fastened at the ends and join the last row. Be sure to press the laid parquet boards with a metal bracket or wringers.

It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the smooth laying of a parquet board. In this case, mark the cutting line on the plate, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Put the plank in the right place, apply an adhesive composition to the cut and glue it.

After the laying is completed, pull out the wedges and turn on the "warm floor" system (the temperature must be increased gradually). Fix the skirting boards and mount the door sills. By the way, the mandatory gaps in doorways- manufacturer's requirement.

As a final touch, it would be nice to treat the floor with special flooring products. The wax contained in these mixtures clogs the joints between the boards well.

How to lay a parquet board on a warm floor

The parquet floor itself has wonderful thermal insulation properties, plus everything, the substrate does not let the cold through. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet board is laid directly on the "warm floor".

True, not every system is suitable here. If there are no problems with water heating, then the electric floor is incompatible with the parquet board. Such a “warm floor” heats up too quickly, a sharp temperature drop occurs, as a result of which the locks of the tiles begin to crack.

Laying parquet tiles on the "warm floor" should be carried out only after it is turned off and cooled down to room temperature. At the end of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature should be increased gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board may “lead”.

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The parquet board is an amazing material that gives the interior an indescribable naturalness and attractiveness. Children take their first steps on this floor, beloved pets bask in the sun, and the inhabitants of the house themselves spank early morning by floor covering. It turns out that the floor experiences a load every day, so parquet board maintenance should be regular. And here special knowledge is not required, just a drop of care is needed.

Have you laid a beautiful parquet board on the floor? Get ready for the full care of the new coating. If you ignore this question, thinking, “what will happen to it!”, then soon the parquet board will lose its attractive appearance, dry out, crack, scratch. Scary? That's it, because a lot of money had to be paid for quality material, and if the laying was carried out by people from outside, then the costs turned out to be significant.

Then you should quickly familiarize yourself with the basic principles of parquet board care so that it is not excruciatingly painful for a damaged floor covering:

• lining for furniture legs;
• roller mats;
• water repellent compounds.

In order for the care of the parquet board to be as correct as possible, you need to learn about the rules of care even before laying it:

• protect the floor from scratches in every possible way;
• if a dog lives in the house, after each visit to the street it is necessary to wash his paws. And also do not forget about the timely cutting of the claws of the animal in order to avoid damage to the surface of the parquet board;
• put on furniture legs a kind of "boots", that is, felt nozzles. This precaution is most relevant for furniture that is frequently moved around the room;
• today in the store you can find various care products, for example, polishes, mastics, varnishes, anti-slip agents. With their help, the parquet board becomes clean, shiny, a protective film is formed on it, which serves as a barrier against scratches and other defects. Plus, manufacturers offer consumers a huge range, you can find means to eliminate traces of shoes, chemicals, food contamination;
• as for shoes, you should try to walk on the parquet board in soft slippers. It is strictly forbidden to walk in street shoes, especially heels. As a result of such unreasonable actions, chips, dents, cracks will appear on the parquet board;
• after applying the varnish, you should wait 12 hours (do not forget to close the windows, doors) and only after that you can walk on the floor covering;
• after complete drying, there is no need to rush and immediately begin to drag furniture, run, jump and stomp your feet. We'll have to wait a week or two, observing a gentle mode of operation. And if it doesn’t take time right away, the furniture should be moved extremely carefully, and during assembly, put a dense material, for example, corrugated cardboard, fiberboard, so as not to accidentally wrinkle or scratch the fresh coating;

Be sure to remove the substrate after the assembly is completed, because if it is left for a long time, a very undesirable darkening will occur in those places that were covered with cardboard.

Daily cleaning rules

This is a rather complicated event that requires special skills, because the wrong cleaning technology will cause damage, and it is not easy to eliminate it. So how do you clean hardwood flooring? First of all, cleaning should be done with a vacuum cleaner or a well-wrung cloth. The main thing to remember is an important detail - in no case should you fill the floor with water, as this will lead to swelling and warping.

Before cleaning, it is advisable to inspect the floor covering for cracks or deep scratches. If they are, it will be necessary to eliminate such defects without fail, because rotting processes will begin in the places of damage, that is, the floor will become unusable. The cracks should be cleaned with a thin wire, then sealed with putty from wood glue, birch or oak sawdust.

An unvarnished parquet board does not need to be washed frequently; it is better to wipe such a floor with a cloth that has been dipped in cold water with the addition of glycerin - the proportions are as follows: one tablespoon per 200 grams of water. Concerning hot water, then, according to the recommendations of experts, the parquet board cannot be washed with it. Of course, the easiest, not dangerous way to clean is with a vacuum cleaner. And, yes - if there are animals in the house, cleaning will need to be done more often.

Making armor against water

The parquet board catastrophically dislikes water, we can say that it is afraid of it. And, really, this common truth should be known and never forgotten. A large number of water - death for the parquet board!

But there is one secret weapon that saves the situation a little. The point is that there are special means, which repel water, few people know about them, and this miracle remedy is called "polish". But this does not mean at all that after its application it will be possible to pour water in buckets on the parquet floor. The essence of the process is that a thin protective film is formed on the floor, which saves the parquet board from a small amount of water and abrasion.

Polishes are also useful when the joints between the plates are poorly sealed. For example, if a child accidentally spilled juice, there is no need to shout at him, accusing him of causing damage: the juice will simply remain on the surface, because the polish will not let him "slip" there. For primary use, you need to buy several bottles of polish at once, because it diverges instantly. It must be diluted clearly, observing all the points indicated in the instructions. Re-treatment will be needed in a week or two, but the amount of polish will decrease significantly. It is also important not to walk on the floor after treatment for about half an hour.

Floor mats for furniture

Furniture on wheels has a negative effect on the parquet floor, and on any other too. Take, for example, a computer chair, which is a headache for flooring: the wheels, fidgeting in different directions, damage the varnish and lead to cracking.

But, not everything is so sad, the hard work of scientists did not go unnoticed, you can find plastic rugs on store shelves. They save the floor from scratches and do not spoil the appearance of the room at all, because they are transparent, that is, invisible.

Special furniture and felt pads

And here progress is striding by leaps and bounds, however, finding such furniture is quite difficult. What is special about her? In fact, this is absolutely normal furniture on wheels (chairs, chests of drawers), just the wheels are made of soft rubber that does not leave black marks and scratches. Buying such furniture will be an excellent option if you want the parquet board to serve for a long time.

Felt pads are an excellent invention worthy of high praise. Why? Sometimes there is a need to move furniture, and often the furniture is dragged along, traces of such irresponsibility and negligence remain on the floor.

To avoid such negative actions, you just need to glue felt pads on the “sole” of the furniture. You can also buy felt heels and screw them into the legs of sofas, chairs, cabinets.

Ways to remove scratches

Undoubtedly, scratches are the most common damage that needs good disguise. Option one - a special wax-based pencil is selected, suitable in color to the parquet board. Then it must be melted and the softened wax applied to the unsightly scratch. The next step is to level the surface, removing all excess wax with a rubber spatula. After that, the surface is polished with a soft cloth.

The second option is young Walnut(only suitable for shallow scratches). First you need to split it, remove the core, rub it with a scratch. The wood in the treated area will darken, the defect will become less noticeable.

The above methods are suitable for removing shallow scratches, but what about others? The use of repair varnish will help here. Before starting the process, the surface is thoroughly cleaned, varnish is applied to it (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Also, deep scratches can be repaired with putty. special composition, necessarily matching in color with the floor. The putty is applied rubber spatula surpluses are removed. After drying, the surface is polished with sandpaper, dust is removed, a layer of varnish and wax is applied.

Sanding parquet flooring

If, however, scratches cannot be masked, you will have to use grinding. But there is one caveat, a parquet board cannot be endlessly sanded, a maximum of several times. The specific figure depends on the quality of the manufacturer and the thickness of the top layer. On average, this figure varies between 5-7 times. Of course, before starting the process, you need to consult with a specialist or entrust this matter to the master.

It must be remembered that the humidity in the room needs to be controlled. The optimal parameters are 40-60%. If the humidity is low, the board will dry out, and this will lead to damage. It is best to put an aquarium in a room with a parquet floor and forget about humidity forever.

Dealing with stains on the floor

If there are stains on the floor that cannot be washed with a damp cloth, you need to use special products. However, there is more folk methods, the use of which has an excellent effect.

The main types of pollution and cleaning methods:

• shoe marks (black stripes) - rub the floor with a nylon cloth;
• paint, chewing gum - in this situation, only special tools that can be bought in the store will help household chemicals. Instruction plays an important role, since amateur performance will lead to serious consequences;
• colored pencil - moisten a piece of cloth in white spirit and wipe the mark from the pencil;
• wax - first freeze the wax stain with ice, then take a plastic spatula and carefully clean it off. Next, you need to put a piece of soft material on the remaining particles and iron it;
• blood - a fresh stain is removed with a cloth dipped in cold water, and for a dried one, it is necessary to add a small amount of ammonia to the water and moisten the matter with the already obtained solution;
• nail polish - wipe with a solution of acetone with water.

An important point - it is extremely undesirable to use acetone in its pure form!

Types of protective coatings - varnish or oil?

A variety of varnishes and oil-wax mixtures are used as protective films.

Option #1 - varnishes

Varnishes based on synthetic solvents have a pungent odor; people prone to allergies may experience burning in the eyes, pain. And some wear-resistant modern varnishes require obligatory ultraviolet lighting during fixing.

Before applying varnish, the surface is primed: the pores are filled, the surface is protected from cracking, and the consumption of varnish is reduced. It is best to apply a test coat on an inconspicuous area.

Option #2 - oil-wax blends

This method is still relevant today. The oil-wax mixture penetrates deep into the wood, fills the pores, gives the parquet board a unique look, while effectively highlighting the uniqueness of the wood species. Modern mixtures do not require too frequent application - it is enough to apply them once a year (of course, with proper care).

How is this process carried out? First you should apply a layer of oil, then another, but with wax. The composition of oil-wax mixtures contains Chinese or linseed oil, a drying accelerator, color pigments, natural modifiers. Wax can be vegetable, animal. As you can see, the components of such compositions are natural, environmentally friendly materials. If there is a need to transition from wax to varnish, the wax must first be removed by sanding, otherwise the varnish will not set.

And lastly, the parquet board painfully reacts to various influences (physical, mechanical). But this does not mean at all that the floor needs to be covered with a carpet or a path. So the point of choosing a parquet board as a floor covering disappears altogether. It is better to protect her from unwanted contacts: do not walk in street shoes, do not allow dirt and sand to get on the floor, do not defile in stilettos and, of course, follow the rules of care. Then the parquet board will delight the eye with its beautiful appearance for a long time.

Floors are the most significant piece of furniture in a home. And parquet floors give the interior natural naturalness and harmonious beauty of wood. Therefore, it is important that the color of the floors is in harmony with the prevailing color scheme in the room. One of the solutions is to match the shades of the parquet to the colors of the furniture, which looks very harmonious. Also, there is an option, contrasting floor and furniture options. In a word, the choice of coating color has ample opportunities for creative searches.

So, in this article, we will try to explain what arguments should be followed when choosing natural flooring, such as parquet.

The three-layer construction is a reliable and technological product, which is much less subject to wood "movement". This means that with changes in temperature and humidity in the room, the design of the parquet board allows you to withstand adverse conditions and strictly "keep" the geometry. In other words, your floor will not snap or start to "ship". It's all about the three-layer construction of the parquet board.

bottom layer, as a rule, is made of spruce plywood (in some cases spruce dies are used).

middle layer represents a set of spruce or pine slabs, the direction of the wood fibers of which is perpendicular to the useful layer, i.e. front, which is made of various types of wood and has various versions. Thus, the reliability of the parquet board is due to the double interweaving of wood fibers in the construction of the parquet board.

Upper layer- this is directly a layer of noble wood.

Parquet flooring

The parquet board is covered with varnish or oil, in the factory, on special equipment. On the surface of the front layer of the board putty is applied, a primer layer and then 6-7 layers of varnish (depending on the manufacturer) with ultraviolet hardening. Thus, the surface of the board is reliably protected from abrasion during operation, which gives advantages over parquet, which is covered at home, in which such a quality of coating cannot be achieved.

But it must be taken into account that the use of chairs on wheels, point stress on the parquet board coating, is fraught with the formation of scratches, cracks, depressions, etc. In order to avoid such problems and extend the life of the factory coating, we strongly recommend: use rugs for chairs on wheels, felt pads on furniture legs (especially chairs and tables, because these furniture elements move more often), limit point stress on the coating (do not walk on lacquered heels), avoid getting sand and moisture (we recommend to style rugs in the hallways).

The same precautions apply to oiled parquet positions. However, it must be taken into account that the wood pores of the oiled surface are less protected from moisture, wear and contamination. Therefore, when wet cleaning boards covered with oil, we recommend using special liquid polishes (oil-wax), which clean the surface and fill the gaps with a wax composition, and once a year general cleaning using special machines.

Laying methods

Having a three-layer construction, the parquet board can be laid in several ways. The most common, simple and cheap - floating laying method. This is a method in which a parquet board is placed on a dry, hard, even and clean base. The boards are assembled together, fastened with a lock joint, just like a laminate (Karelia, Timberwise).

The advantage of this method is:

• simple and fast way floor laying,
• strength and durability during operation,
• immediate readiness for use after laying,
• the possibility of dismantling for subsequent use.

But some people don't like the "hollow" feel of the floating installation method, where the floor is "walking". It is also possible to lay a parquet board by gluing it to the base ( adhesive method) - plywood (8-12 mm thick) is placed on a dry, solid, even and clean base, which is primed. The parquet board is taken to the glue, which is applied to the plywood. It takes a few days for the glue to “set”.

The advantage of this method is that the board is rigidly glued to the base and gives a feeling of solidity of the floor structure.

Flaw such laying is that the parquet board cannot be reused during dismantling.

Sort selection

The next point in choosing a parquet board is sorting the wood of the front layer. This means the number of knots on the board, sapwood, the presence / absence of a colorful wood pattern. Manufacturers offer, as a rule, at least three options for sorting European wood species. This allows you to more accurately display design decision in the interior drawing and embody your ideas. In this case, there are no specific recommendations, except that be guided by the advice of the designer and your own preferences. The selection or sorting of the parquet does not affect the operational properties!

Manufacturer's choice

The most difficult moment when buying -. It is necessary to find a product that would combine both good value and excellent quality. Since the parquet board market is quite wide and there are many brands, you can get confused. Of course, in this case it is necessary to determine the products of what price range you can afford. We offer products of various factories and price levels.

Board Polarwood co-produced by Russia and Finland is a quality a budget option, with a large selection of oak parquet board options.

The parquet board manufacturer is one of the most technologically advanced production facilities in Europe. Affordable price, high quality and a wide range of products - distinguishes this manufacturer from competitors.

magnum- big choice parquet boards in various designs. Affordable price coupled with high quality. Available in a warehouse in Minsk.

A parquet board - elite quality in piece execution. This is a one-strip parquet board made of oak, ash in various options: colors(natural, thermo, bleached), surfaces (smooth, structured, aged) and sorting (select, classic).

So, in this article, we tried to clarify the main issues in choosing a parquet board. Of course, this product is technologically advanced, i.e. virtually unaffected by major problems wooden floors(problems of changing geometry), has a wide selection of different types of wood (which expands the possibilities of interior solutions) and, most importantly, fully pays for itself (because it does not require special preparation during installation, it is ready for installation, does not require varnishing).

We wish you good luck with your choice!

One of the main advantages of a parquet board is that it does not need additional processing after laying. The material is polished, scraped, varnished and other operations are carried out at the factory, so all that remains for the consumer to do after purchase is to properly lay the boards on the subfloor. Thanks to a convenient locking system, the installation technology is noticeably simplified, but in order to create a high-quality and durable floor covering, you need to study all the subtleties of this process.

The parquet board differs from the usual wooden one in its three-layer structure:

• upper layer– wood valuable breed with a pronounced texture. The thickness varies between 1-6 mm, but most often it is 3.5-4 mm. To improve the decorative properties, the material undergoes heat treatment, bleaching and other procedures, and to protect against negative impacts, varnishing or impregnation with oil-wax compounds;
• intermediate layer- pine or spruce slats laid perpendicular to the front layer. At the ends of the rails, tongue or groove joints are cut, depending on the modification of the parquet board. The thickness of this layer is 8-9 mm;
• bottom layer- solid veneer of softwood, up to 2 mm thick. The direction of the fibers is perpendicular to the previous layer.

This arrangement of layers provides the material with high flexural and compressive strength, increases resistance to changes in humidity and temperature conditions. There are almost no chips on the parquet board, and protective covering retains an attractive appearance for years. The standard board has the following options:

• width 120-200 mm;
• length 1100-2500 mm;
• thickness 10-22 mm.

There are several varieties of parquet boards, due to the number of dies in the top layer and the presence of chamfers on the sides.

Table. Types of parquet boards

Tarkett parquet board prices

Parquet board Tarkett

Pros and cons of the material

Despite the abundance of inexpensive and reliable floor coverings, the demand for parquet boards remains consistently high. Such popularity is due to the presence of significant advantages of the material:

• the coating is durable and has a long service life, is resistant to wear, can be restored;
• no need for varnishing, sanding or painting after installation is completed;
• thanks to the locking system, the coating, if necessary, can be dismantled and laid again, without deterioration in performance properties;
• installation does not require special equipment and does not take much time;
• parquet flooring looks spectacular and is suitable for different interior styles.

Such coverage also has disadvantages, although there are not many of them:

• the lack of the possibility of curly styling;
• relatively high price;
• the need for careful preparation of the rough foundation.

Ways of laying a parquet board

The laying of the coating can be carried out in three ways - adhesive, floating and with the help of fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws).

Adhesive method

Laying the coating on the adhesive requires a perfectly even and dry base. If on draft floor notches or tubercles remain, this will lead to uneven abrasion of the finish layer, the appearance of cracks, deformations. Restoring such a floor is also more difficult, since in the protruding areas during scraping more material is removed than necessary, in the recesses it is not removed at all. And the presence of moisture under the floor contributes to partial peeling of the coating, the appearance of fungus, swelling and swelling. To eliminate such risks, the parquet board is not glued to the screed itself, but to a plywood or chipboard substrate. There must be waterproofing under the substrate; in addition, soundproofing material can be laid - cork, polyethylene foam and others.

This method is used less and less, because it has more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, costs increase: in addition to parquet boards and waterproofing, it is necessary to buy material for the substrate, fasteners and special parquet glue, the cost of which is quite high. Secondly, more time is required for laying, because you need to cut and fit plywood, fix it correctly, and apply glue. Do not walk on the floor until the glue is completely dry. In addition, it will be more difficult to replace accidentally damaged areas, and a dismantled floor is unsuitable for reuse.

floating way

The laying of the coating is carried out without fixing the parquet board to the rough base. Between themselves, the lamellae are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system or a special locking connection. A small gap must be left around the perimeter of the room to prevent deformation of the floor during thermal expansion. Between the coating and the base there is a layer of waterproofing, and noise-absorbing materials can also be laid.

This method is considered the most convenient and fastest, therefore it is used by most craftsmen, and is also ideal for those who do not yet have building experience. Subject to the laying technology, the coating perfectly tolerates changes in humidity and temperature regime, which means that the risk of deformation is reduced to zero. If individual lamellas are damaged, it will not be difficult to replace them, the main thing is to choose the right boards according to tone and pattern. Complete dismantling of the coating also does not require much effort, in addition, the material can be reused.

Laying with fasteners

Fixing a parquet board with nails or self-tapping screws can be used in case of laying the coating on logs or solid wooden base and not on a screed. Lamellas with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable for this, since thin boards can be easily damaged. The logs are laid in increments of no more than 60 cm and strictly in the same plane, since even small differences in height cause creaks when walking. The space under the floor covering must be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of condensation and moisture.

When laying the lamellas, they are positioned so that their ends are joined only on the logs. The nails are driven into the grooves at an angle, and the caps are deepened with a finisher so that the fasteners do not interfere with the tight fit of adjacent boards. Such fasteners give the necessary strength of the connection, but make it difficult to replace the elements during repairs. If it becomes necessary to completely dismantle, it will not be possible to reuse the coating due to damaged edges.

For fixing individual parquet planks, nails are used, the length of which is 40 mm, and the thickness is 1.6 - 1.8 mm

Adhesive floor technology

Preparatory stage

Start by assessing the condition of the subfloor. Its surface must be smooth, dry, without any defects. In order not to miss minor damage, the base must first be cleaned of debris and dust. Be sure to check the screed with a level and, if necessary, level the floor with a leveling compound. If a new screed is poured, it is impossible to start laying until the base is completely dry.

During the installation process you will need:

• primer for concrete;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• parquet board;
• tape measure and pencil;
• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• drill;
• dowel-nails;
• one-component parquet adhesive;
• notched trowel;
• a hammer.

Materials should be taken with a small margin, so calculate the right amount in advance by measuring the floor area. As a rule, trimming takes from 5 to 10% of the total amount of flooring, depending on the experience of the master and installation options.

Advice. The parquet board must be brought into the room where the installation will be carried out in advance, and left for at least a day. In this case, the temperature in the room should be within 18-25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Coating laying

Step 1. The screed cleaned of dust is treated with a primer. If the composition is absorbed quickly, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers, observing the time specified in the instructions for interlayer drying.

Step 2 The plywood is laid out on a dry floor and the cut points are marked. The substrate sheets should be staggered, while gaps of 3-5 mm wide should be left between them to compensate for thermal expansion. A gap of 10-15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the room.

Step 3 Using a circular saw, cut plywood, clean the cuts from chips and dust. Dilute the glue and apply it to concrete base where the first sheet will be. The glue is quite thick, so it needs to be spread over the surface with a spatula. Plywood is laid, leveled, gently pressed with hands. All other sheets are glued in the same way.

Step 4 For more reliable fixation, plywood must be fastened to the base with dowel-nails. To do this, holes are drilled in each sheet at the corners and in the middle of the sides, stepping back from the edge of 30-40 mm. Dowels are inserted into the holes and fasteners are hammered.

Step 5 After fixing the substrate, the surface is cleaned of dust and the marking of the flooring is started. The first row is laid from the wall, fastening the boards without glue using locking joints. On the last lamella in the row, a cutting line is marked and the excess is cut off. Having completely laid the first row, mark its border on the substrate with a pencil and remove the boards.

Step 6 Take a new portion of glue and apply it with a spatula to the designated area. Distribute in an even layer over the entire surface, without going beyond the markings. The boards of the first row are laid, carefully fitting them from the ends and leaving a gap between the wall and the coating of at least 10 mm.

Step 7 The second row should be fastened with a displacement of the end seams by half the length of the lamella. Having properly cut the material, carefully cover the substrate with glue and proceed to laying. To do this, they take the board with both hands along the edges, put it at an angle to the board of the first row, inserting the comb into the groove along the entire length, then lower it down and lightly knock it down so that the lamella falls into place. All the rest are laid in the same way.

Step 8 When laying the coating near the threshold, around the ledges and in niches, cutouts of the appropriate shape are made in the boards, leaving a technological gap around the perimeter. In order for the gap to be the same along the entire length, it is recommended to insert wooden or plastic wedges 10 mm thick between the wall and the parquet board.

Advice. In the absence of experience in such work, it is necessary to control the time of fitting the boards so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry. If the room is long, for the first time it is better to apply glue up to half the row.

Step 9 The last row often has to be cut to width. Here, in the same way, the board is applied to the surface, the cut line is marked with a pencil, and the excess is removed. After completing the work, leave the room for 8-10 hours, so that the glue hardens and securely fixes the floor covering.

After the specified time, the spacer wedges are removed and the gaps are closed with skirting boards. Caring for such a floor is easy, the main thing is to avoid excessive moisture. When wet cleaning, the rag must be wrung out well so that puddles do not collect on the floor. Accidentally spilled liquids should be wiped up immediately, preventing moisture from penetrating into the seams between the boards.

Floating technology

The floating floor also requires a quality base, so the screed is prepared in the manner described above. Next, prepare everything you need for work:

• parquet board;
• waterproofing film;
• scotch;
• underlayment for sound insulation;
• expansion wedges;
• tape measure and pencil;
• jigsaw;
• kleimers for skirting boards;
• drill and dowels with self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The prepared base is lined with a film for waterproofing, capturing the walls to a height of 10 cm. The strips of the film are overlapped to a width of 30 cm and the edge is glued with adhesive tape.

Step 2 The next layer is a heat-insulating substrate made of pressed cork or polyethylene foam. The substrate is laid close to the walls, adjacent strips - end-to-end.

Step 3 Start installing the cover. The first board is laid in the corner along the wall, with an indent of 10-15 mm from the side and from the end. For convenience, wedges of appropriate thickness are inserted between the board and the walls.

Advice. The boards of the first row must be laid with a ridge against the wall, but since in this case the technological gap will be wider than required, the ridges are pre-cut.

Step 4 The second board is placed side by side, leveled, its end is brought into the lock of the first and tightly adjusted. The last lamella in the row is first tried on, marked with a pencil to the desired length and cut off the excess with a saw, after which it is fixed like everyone else.

Step 5 In the second row, the boards are shifted by at least a third of the length. Laying is done in the same way, only now each board needs to be joined both in length and from the end.

Step 6 Having reached the opening, mark the thickness of the coating on the door frame and carefully cut a groove under the parquet board with a hacksaw. The vacuum cleaner removes the formed dust and shavings.

Step 7 Install the threshold. An aluminum rail is applied to the floor, fixing points are marked through the mounting holes. Having drilled holes, clean them of dust, insert dowels and fasten the rail with self-tapping screws.

Step 8 When laying the board extreme from the threshold, the connection is additionally strengthened with glue. To do this, carefully remove the top layer of wood along the crest with a sharp knife, remove the chips and apply glue with a thin continuous strip. The board is pushed under door frame, level from the end and along the side line, snap the locks. For a tighter fit, they hammer on the other side of the lamella with a hammer.

Step 9 The coating is cut and laid opposite the threshold, after which the upper bar of the metal nut is screwed. The plank should tightly close the ends of the boards and lie strictly horizontally.

Step 10 From the threshold, the rows are laid in the manner described above, with a mandatory gap around the perimeter of the room. If the last row does not fit in width, the boards are cut with a saw from the side of the groove.

Step 11 After laying the coating, on the walls, on top of the film, they mark the attachment points for the baseboard clamps in increments of 40-50 cm. The indents from the corners should not be more than 20 cm. Drill holes in the wall through the film, insert the dowels and screw the clamps with self-tapping screws.

Step 12 The baseboards are installed, then take a sharp mounting knife and very carefully cut off the protruding edge of the film so as not to leave scratches on the baseboard and on the wall.

Subject to the technology, the coating is strong and durable, does not swell, does not creak underfoot. If you need to replace individual fragments, it will be enough to pry them up and lift them up to separate the lock.

Video - Errors when laying parquet boards