How to calculate the crate for a metal tile. The main stages of installation of crates for metal tiles. Type and location of polymer protective coating
The crate under the metal tile is mounted in order to give strength to the entire roof structure, as well as to ensure natural ventilation under the roofing. It is a supporting frame on which sheets of metal are laid. Correctly performed calculation of the distance between the boards and their cross section directly affect not only the installation process, but also the subsequent operation of the entire roof. The crate for metal tiles should provide reliable retention of metal sheets during strong gusts of wind.
The step of the crate under the metal tile must strictly correspond to the distance between the waves, depending on the type of this product. 
Self-tapping screws, with which sheets of metal are attached to the elements of the crate, according to the technology, must fix the metal in the most rigid place of the wave. This place is its so-called bottom, which is located almost at the bottom of the next wave.During installation, it is important that the lower part of the wave coincides with the location of the horizontal bar of the crate. That is why the exact calculation of the distance between the frame boards affects the quality of the arrangement. roofing. For example, when installing the most popular type of Monterrey metal tile, it is correct to adhere to the step between the centers of the crate, the size of which is 350 mm. An exception is the laying of the second bar from the bottom of the slope, where the distance should be 300 mm. When installing the no less popular type of Cascade metal tile, the main step will be 300 mm, but the distance between the first and second row of the crate will be 250 mm. And the dimensions of the indent between the second and third row of the lathing for the Cascade roof structure are 350 mm. This is due to the peculiarity of the texture of the metal tile and the size of the wave (the wave height of the Cascade metal tile is 45 mm, and Monterrey - 39 mm).
Required set of tools
Before making a crate for a metal tile, the craftsmen must take care of the availability of the arsenal of tools necessary for this type of work. These include the following:- Construction stapler.
- Wood saw, circular saw or chainsaw.
- Hammer or cordless screwdriver (when used as bases for lathing boards, if their thickness allows it, then the connections can be fixed with self-tapping screws).
- Level.
- Construction marker and tape measure.
The distance between horizontally laid boards can be measured using a measuring bar, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the nearest sides of the horizontally placed boards.
Necessary building materials and "consumables"
Installation of the batten under the metal tile should be carried out on a pre-placed layer of waterproofing and, if necessary, on the structure of the counter batten. For the installation of the supporting frame, the following building materials will be required:- A board with a section of 25 (32) mm by 100 mm, or bars, the dimensions of which are 50 by 50 mm;
- Nails, the length of which depends on the thickness of the boards or bars used. It is better to use galvanized or copper nails, the service life of which is much longer.
Step-by-step instruction
After necessary tools and materials prepared detailed diagram installation of the supporting frame is made up, and the working surface is cleared of foreign debris, you should proceed to the installation of the first board.- Installation of the first board of the crate. It is necessary to start fastening the bars or boards of the roof sheathing from the underside of the slope. To do this, it is necessary to place the frame board in a horizontal order and attach it to the vertical counter-lattice or roof rafters with nails and a hammer. Each junction of the batten elements with the roof surface or the counter batten must be reinforced with at least two nails. The distance between the battens of the crate should be maintained in accordance with technical specifications selected type of metal tile.
- Installation of the second row of battens. It must be remembered that the distance between the first and second row will differ from subsequent, this should be addressed Special attention while doing the calculation.
- Installation of subsequent rows. Further, the crate under the metal tile is mounted with a standard distance, depending on the type of metal tile. A measuring bar is used, the thickness of which corresponds to the dimensions of the boards of the crate, in order to quickly and comfortably fix subsequent rows.
- On the inside corners roofs where it is planned to equip the valley with their own hands, the base boards are cut at an angle to ensure a tight joint. Also, the roof valley, chimney or skylights can be equipped around the perimeter with a solid board.
- The last row of the crate in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper ridge should be correctly made wider. To do this, either a wider board can be used, or when attaching standard bars, connect them together, and if necessary, add a few more rows to form a uniform surface. A continuous crate is made to prevent deflection of the edge of the metal tile sheet.
- On the last step the edges of the frame are trimmed, thereby equalizing their length to a millimeter.
Features of installation and further operation of the roof
Since the installation of the crate under the metal tile provides for high-altitude work, then when doing it yourself, you need to take care of personal safety. Individual insurance should be used correctly, the sole of the shoes used should not slip.
Given the fact that the wood used after installation in most cases still contains a certain amount of moisture, after the first year of operation of the roof, it is necessary to tighten each self-tapping screw with your own hands. Due to the drying of wood, its dimensions slightly decrease, the roof connection weakens and there is a risk of water getting onto the surface of the crate along the thread of the roofing screw, which fixes the sheets of metal to the crate. The calculation of the required number of components and the installation of the lathing with your own hands is a crucial step in equipping the roof with roofing. Any installation instructions different kind metal tiles, focuses on the quality and correct installation grounds. At the same time, the calculation of the amount of material for covering the roof, the dimensions of the elements of the crate and all distances must be as accurate as possible, and the requirements for the sequence of work must be strictly observed. For example, when installing metal tiles of the "Cascade" type, bars with a section of 32 mm by 100 mm are mainly used. With such characteristics of the base elements, on average for furnishing 1 square meter battens will need 3 linear meters of boards. It is quite possible to do such a volume of work with your own hands, however, one should take into account the complexity of the geometry of the roof, the dimensions of the slopes and the total area. Watch the video Before you start laying any coating for cladding, you must first create a base on which it will lie.
The basis for the frame on which the roofing is laid is the crate, it holds all the facing material and is part of the roof structure.
It can have several variants of its device:
- Solid- in this option, the maximum density of laying and fastening the boards of the crate is ensured.
- Sheet mounting option- OSB sheets are laid on the roof frame, which level the base, regardless of what it is covered with.
- Discharged- this option provides for laying a wooden beam on the rafters, perpendicular to which, forming a crate, another row of beams or boards is laid at intervals similar to the dimensions of the selected roof covering in each particular case.
For different claddings, there are separate requirements for the installation of the base, which come from its specifics.
So, for example, it requires a frame of increased strength to hold the weight of the coating.
It consists of 2 layers:
- First- are wooden bars installed longitudinally in relation to the rafters, this is the so-called - counter-lattice. Its elements fix a waterproofing film that serves as a waterproofing and prevents the insulation, which is laid out in the intervals of the rafter system, from getting wet.
- Second layer- directly the crate itself in the form of a wooden beam, already installed across the rafters and the counter-lattice, in direct contact with the external facing material in the form of a metal tile.
The entire frame is usually fixed with ordinary nails, although self-tapping screws are now increasingly used, as they provide a more reliable and durable connection.
Lathing step
Typical dimensions
Importance right choice distances between components:
- The best option for a roof made of metal, is a structure with a discharged pitch.
- Under step it is understood the distance between the laths of the crate running across the rafters, the very ones to which the metal tile is mounted using self-tapping screws.
- Options for this step, its size in each case, are determined individually, depending on the specific dimensions of the means used for roof sheathing.
- metal tile different brands differs in a long wave, and hence in a step. Therefore, for each brand it is necessary to make an individual step calculation. It is extremely responsible and important point, since only with the correct calculation it is possible to prevent possible inconsistencies between the sheets of the roof, its deformation, fragility of installation, as well as overspending of the material.
What step depends on:
- He's getting picked up in each specific case, depending on the type of metal tile used, since different variants profiles require different pitch intervals.
- When calculating the pitch, it is necessary to take into account the influence of the presence of the pipe, the parameters of its width and design. Fixing the downpipe on the frontal board, it is mounted on a ledge. Not the least important is the diameter of the gutter itself. For example, a gutter with a diameter of 9 cm can be mounted on a ledge of the same size, but a design with a cross section of 12 cm requires a ledge with a margin.
Pitch Calculation:
- First thing the area is calculated on which the roofing sheets will protrude in relation to the cut of the rafters or the front board. Thus, in order to equalize the length of the protrusion, the metal will have to be lowered lower and lower as the steepness of the angle of the roof slope increases. If these interrelated parameters are incorrectly calculated, the entire crate may shift in relation to the place of optimal installation of tiles on self-tapping screws.
- Distance between battens, as a rule, is indicated in the instructions for different types of roofing. It is measured from the point at the top of one board to the bottom of the other beam.
- Between the initial 2 rails of the structure, the step size must be made smaller than with bars.
- Using the building level, with which marks are made, the distance between the frame beam is determined. To do this, measure the distance between the top of the initial wave and the bottom edge of the metal sheet. The usual dimensions of a transverse wave are from 300 to 450 mm, and in this interval one should look for the optimal step.
- Further, the same level, calculate the approximate position of the roofing sheet by applying a square at a right angle to the front board and noting the mark of the required protrusion. Then, you need to hold the level to this mark.
- From the beginning of the front board draw a line vertically to a pre-applied level and make a notch. Now the distance between these two marks will be equal to the required distance between the edge of the first board and the top of the next element of the crate with a margin for the ledge of the roof and the slope of the roof slope.
- Starting board it is necessary to select a greater thickness in order to prevent a hanging protrusion during the installation of the roof.
- The length of the remaining crossbars of the carrier system when sheathing the rabbit is measured from the upper side of the second board at regular intervals, identical to the roof profile. Risks should be marked on several rafters for adjustment in case one of the boards turns out to be crooked. In the worst case scenario, such a crossbar will need to be leveled, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the roof evenly and reliably.
- Calculation, as well as laying the crate, must be done strictly from top to bottom, always keeping in mind the remaining length of the roofing material.
Do-it-yourself installation
As in most woodworking, it is recommended to choose materials made from softwood for roofing: sawn timber and edged boards. The dimensions of the timber and boards used in each case depend on the characteristics of the roofing device.
For example:
- Edged board 24-25 mm thick, 100 m long is the most common choice, and is used for almost any roof that has a simple device.
- For installation of complex roofing variants with combined materials with increased weight, for example, when using thick galvanized sheets as the basis, a tree of 28-32 mm of standard length is used.
- Beam sawn 50x50 mm or 40x60 mm, is used in the rarest roof structures, for example, when the distance between the rafters is not standard 60-80 cm, but 90-100 cm.
An equally significant factor in choosing raw materials is the quality of the tree itself: is it wet, are there any branches or other flaws. Previously, before installation on all elements of wood, it is desirable to apply a protective coating that repels moisture.
To make a frame for a metal tile, you will need a set of standard building tools for wood: a hammer, nails or galvanized screws, a tape measure, a wood saw, a building level and a pencil or felt-tip pen for marking.
First sheet fixing options
Walkthrough:
First stage
The presence of heat, hydro and vapor barrier materials under the crate is a prerequisite for ensuring a long service life of the roof. So, hydro-vapor barrier serves to protect the building not only from precipitation from the atmosphere, but also from the ingress of wet vapors from inside the house into the area of \u200b\u200bthe crate and roofing.
When they settle on the structural elements, water condensate is obtained, which turns into ice in winter and contributes to the deformation of the protective layer of the metal tile and the elements of the wooden batten.
Therefore, at the stage of preliminary work, a heater is laid between the rafters, and then, along them, horizontally from the eaves, to the ridge with an overlap of 150 mm, the insulating material is rolled out. It cannot be fixed with tension, since under the influence of cold it can shrink and tear, so it is laid, observing the sagging between the rafters of about 20 mm.
The insulating material in the unfolded state should protrude beyond the perimeter of the walls by 200 mm. In places where pipes exit from the roof, the overlap of insulation on them must be at least 50 mm. For maximum reliability, the insulation is recommended to be laid in two layers.
Second phase
Installation of the counter-lattice, which not only fixes the insulating materials laid on the rafters, but also creates additional noise and heat insulation of the roof, with optimal ventilation of the space under the roof.
In addition, by making a counter-lattice, it is possible to correct and level out most of the defects and irregularities of the rafters, in order to eventually lay the tiles on a flat slope plane. For its installation, it is better to use a more even timber and a board without knots.
The cross section of the bars depends on the roof material, as well as the slope of the roof, for example, for roofs with a slope of less than 30 degrees, a large section bar is used, since on slopes with a slight slope, the mass of the roof material exerts pressure evenly over the entire roof area.
The beam for it in length should not exceed 1.5 m and should correspond to a cross section within 30-50 mm, depending on the complexity of the design. The step of the counter-lattice is identical to the step of the rafters, since on them it is installed directly on the layer of hydro- and vapor barrier materials, fixing them.
Such a beam should be fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in compliance with a step of no more than 300 mm. To form the most effective articulation, the upper ends of the bars from the opposing slopes must be fastened using the washed down method.
The final stage
The step between the boards of the crate is chosen equal to 350 mm
After the insulation work has been carried out and the vertical grating has been installed, the installation of the direct crate is done, on which the metal tile will be held. For its installation, you will need a beam of 50x50 mm and a board of 32x100 mm, which are necessarily treated with an antiseptic solution.
The timber must be chosen of the best quality, that is, dry and without any knots and cracks. The laying process begins with nailing falling beams from the ridge to the eaves. Subsequently, boards are nailed to them. The board closest to the cornice should be chosen 10-15 mm thicker than the next.
The distance between the two initial elements must be made smaller than between the rest, it must correspond to 300-350 mm. The exact pitch depends on the type of tile and is calculated on a case-by-case basis.
At the junction of the slopes, near the chimneys and on the overhangs of the cornices, a continuous crate is placed with a gap of 10 mm between the slats. On the sides of the ridge bar, 2 additional boards are nailed. And the end strips are raised to the level of the height of the metal profile, i.e. above the crate.
To protect the lower edge of the frame from precipitation, before installing the tiles, a cornice strip is installed on it with the help of galvanized nails and with the obligatory observance of a checkerboard pattern in increments of about 300 mm. When mounting the strips, an overlap in length of 100 mm should be provided.
After completing work with the crate, you can start marking, trimming and laying sheets of metal.
Installation nuances:
- When installing the counter-lattice, it is necessary to maintain a balance so that the film on it is in a slightly sagging state, but at the same time, in no case touches the insulation, providing an air corridor for ventilation of the insulation.
- Upon completion of the installation of the initial rows, other bars can be stacked on a slope so as not to go down to the ground behind each board.
- Boards within the same row, should be fixed on the rafters. You can not put them under the roof with an overlap. And the difference between the joints should be formed on the rafters.
- Special attention should pay attention to the docking of the crate on one rafter. This method gives additional rigidity to the structure.
With an incorrectly started step in the process of subsequent laying of metal tiles, the following problems may appear:
- Docking violation individual metal elements.
- The so-called bumps instead of a flat slope cover.
- Weak connection roofing material with load-bearing lathing.
- Installation problems planks in the eaves and gables.
- Thickness, all parts of the frame must be identical, except for the first beam on the eaves, it must be taken 15 millimeters thicker than the rest.
- To increase the service life and protect the timber from different insects eating wood, all parts of the wooden base must be pre-treated with a protective solution.
- wood used should not break even under weight big man otherwise the material is not suitable. Since even during the installation of the roof on wooden base will have to move. It is not recommended to use non-edged or semi-edged wood as a lattice frame.
- For any construction, the quality of the material is at the forefront. Therefore, if, for example, a wet tree is used for a roof, then sooner or later it will shrink, changing its volume and size, which will certainly cause loosening and laxity of the entire structure from it.
- Lumber, like all other materials, should be taken with a margin in case of a marriage, as well as in case of additional work to strengthen the frame.
The crate, being the basis for a metal tile, usually consists of boards and has its own installation features. When carrying out work on the installation of sheet tiled roofs, it is necessary to strictly follow the established standards and take into account the recommendations of metal tile manufacturers. In this review, all working moments are considered in detail in the context of the calculation and correct installation crates.
Lathing material
The most common cladding material is edged board from pine (spruce, fir and hardwoods are allowed). With a continuous crate, sheets of OSB, plywood or an ordinary board, fixed in increments of 10 - 15 mm, can be used.
When choosing lumber, do not neglect their quality. The board should have a minimum of defects () and be well dried (residual moisture should not exceed 22%). The consequences of using raw boards are torsion and other deformations. It is difficult to predict how this will affect the final result. Therefore, the only the right decision- careful selection from a reliable manufacturer.
It is recommended to purchase lumber processed special formulations. If desired, such processing can be done independently. , you will protect the wood from biodegradation, fungus and insect infestation.
What else should you pay attention to when choosing a board for the crate? For thickness. When purchasing one batch from a supplier, you are unlikely to encounter a difference in this parameter. Otherwise, carefully select the boards and make sure that their thickness varies as little as possible within the desired size. The difference in thickness will lead to differences and reduce the quality of roofing.
The optimal size of the board (beam) depending on the roof structure:
In addition to wood, a steel hat profile can be used as a crate. In this case, it is advisable to perform the entire truss system from the profile.
The metal roofing lathing is mounted with self-tapping screws behind both flanges (edges) to the rafters or the counter-lattice. Under the metal tile with a wave pitch of 350 mm, the profiles are laid with a pitch of 350 mm. With the same step, you can lay the crate for covering with a wave of 175 mm. When using metal tiles with a small wave of 145 mm, the recommended profile pitch is 145 mm or 290 mm.
Metal crate is less common, but has several advantages:
- In comparison with the board, when using a metal crate, due to the perforation of the profile, the natural ventilation of the under-roof space and the removal of condensate are significantly improved.
- The geometry of the metal crate is perfect.
- The steel profile is not afraid of moisture. It has a zinc protective layer.
- The service life can reach 100 years.
- When using a profile, no painting or special maintenance is required.
- This crate has high strength due to the special section shape and the presence of several stiffeners.
- Unlike wood, galvanized steel is a non-combustible material.
Types of crates
Depending on the design and roof assembly, the crate under the metal tile is mounted in several ways. Step (discharged) lathing is used on structures with a slope of more than 20 °. In this case, the pitch of the board is equal to the wavelength of the roofing material.
The minimum allowable roof pitch for metal tiles is 14°.
On more gentle structures with an angle of inclination of 15 - 20 °, it is recommended to use a continuous crate of boards (with a minimum allowable gap of 0.5 - 1 cm to compensate for seasonal expansion (compression) of wood) or sheet lumber. Also, this type of installation is mandatory around skylights and roof hatches; on external and internal fractures of the roof slopes (horse, valley); at junctions to walls and pipes; in the places of fastening of snow retainers, roofing fences, stairs.
As a rule, both types of lathing are used when constructing a roof. And special attention is paid to important areas with a continuous coating. It is also worth noting that a continuous crate for metal tiles (especially with sheet materials) raises a number of controversial issues. Is it economical? And what about ventilation and condensate? The answers are obvious. Therefore, the only alternative is to use a thicker board and fasten it in the right places (for example, a valley) with a minimum step.
Lathing step under the metal tile
Due to the specificity (stepping) of the tiled profile, a crate with a sparse step is most often used under it.
The pitch of the crate is the distance between the longitudinal centers of two adjacent boards. It should be equal to the wavelength of the selected metal tile model. The figure below clearly shows this.
Let's take a closer look at the diagram from the bottom up:
- c - lower release of the roofing sheet. The removal of the roof relative to the starting board for most types of metal tiles is 50 mm.
- The cornice (starting) board should have a large sectional thickness. This is due to the fact that it and the board following it are under the same wave (see the diagram above).
- a1 is the distance from the center of the starting board to the center of the next board.
- b - crate step equal to the wavelength.
- a2 - this distance is determined in fact. Since the last wave is cut, the thickness of the last board must be selected (increased).
In order to avoid inconsistencies, deformations and unstable fastening, it is important to carefully calculate all dimensions and distances before installing the crate.
Wavelength of common profiles:
| Profiles of metal tiles | Wave length, mm |
| Monterrey | 350 |
| Super Monterrey | 350 |
| Maxi | 400 |
| Cascade | 350 |
| Maxi Cascade | 400 |
| Classic | 350 |
| Kvinta (Kvinta plus) | 350 |
| Country (Quint) | 350 |
| Quadro profi | 350 |
| Kamea (Cameo) | 350 |
| Finnera | 350 |
| Adamante | 350 |
| Decorrey | 350 |
| spanish dune | 350 |
| Andalusia | 400 |
| Joker | 400 |
Schemes of lathing of the main roof units
With the main volume of the step crate, there should not be any difficulties during the installation process. This work, in addition to accuracy and accuracy, requires a minimum of skills.
Another thing is the critical nodes of the truss system. You should not ignore them, since fixing defects is a costly and unpleasant task.
Let's highlight the main components and understand the technology of their manufacture:
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The counter-lattice is an obligatory element of the roofing system for metal tiles. It consists of wooden blocks (50 × 50 mm) that are mounted on top of rafters covered with waterproofing material. The main purpose is to improve the ventilation of the under-roof space due to the additional gap. For greater efficiency, it is recommended that the counter-lattice be made not as a solid bar, but in segments with a gap for lateral ventilation. |
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In the valley, it is necessary to mount additional boards between the boards of the step batten. |
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To be able to bring the ridge strip at the ends of the house over the end strips, the ridge support board should be increased by 10–15 mm in thickness. If you install a board of regular thickness, the skate will "sag" down relative to the line of the end bar. |
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As a cornice board, a board thickened by 20 - 25 mm is used. You can also use an ordinary board with a compensating rail, no more than the height of a metal tile step. For most profiles, a 50 × 20 mm rail will do. The first board of the step lathing is fastened with a step of 250 mm from the cornice board, the rest - with a step of 350 mm (at a wavelength of 350 mm). |
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Long hooks of the drainage system are mounted on the cornice board, taking into account the slope. For reliable fastening of the legs of long hooks, the cornice board must have a width of at least 200 mm (or two boards of 100 mm each). The compensating rail is mounted between the hooks. When using a thickened board, before installing the hooks, grooves are cut in it for the leg of the hook. |
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For work on the installation of the crate, the following tools will be required:
- Roulette.
- Level.
- A hammer.
- Hacksaw (hand circular saw or jigsaw).
- Screwdriver.
- Pencil or marker.
- Safety devices.
- Coloring cord (beat).
- Template made according to the wave for fast marking.
All installation steps are discussed step by step in the following video review:
In conclusion, it is worth noting that the crate under the metal tile requires strict adherence to all instructions. You need to know the correct installation sequence (rafters - drip - waterproofing - counter-lattice - cornice board - PVC ventilation mesh - gutter system hooks - crate). It is important to mount the cornice board very accurately. All other boards of the crate will then be equal to it. Safety precautions when working at height are required.
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Metal tile currently occupies a leading position in popularity among domestic developers. Such roofs are found not only on private buildings, but also on commercial premises, factory floors, schools and government agencies. The device of the lathing largely depends on the type of roof.
The purpose of the crate is to provide long-term and safe operation roofs, based on these tasks, the right solution is selected. Special consideration design features roofs, and they have two options.
There are cases when a counter-lattice is also built for cold types of roofs, but this has nothing to do with technological necessity. This is done in two cases: with the desire of hired builders to earn more and with a lack of knowledge.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tile
Features of the crate for metal tiles
There are two types of crates; during a specific choice, one must understand their purpose.
Table. Types of lathing for metal tiles
| Lathing type | Purpose and brief description |
|---|---|
| To equip the crate, slats or boards are used, the distance between the axes of symmetry is 300–400 mm. Specific values depend on the wavelength. In most cases, it is 350 mm, but some manufacturers make roofing materials with a pitch of 300 mm or 400 mm. | |
| The crate has sections with a step-by-step arrangement of rails and with solid boards. Solid flooring is used in places of valleys, skylights, chimneys and other architectural elements and engineering structures. Solid flooring is needed not for fixing sheets of metal tiles, but for fixing waterproofing membranes. |
What determines the type of crate
Each experienced craftsman thinks over the type and parameters of the crate even before the start of execution. construction works. This approach makes it possible to minimize the likelihood of errors, speed up the process of building the crate, increase its reliability and durability.
Sheathing materials
The cost of the structure largely depends on the materials used; when making the right decision, it is possible to reduce the estimated cost by 25-30%. What can be used to make a crate under?
Table. Types of lumber for mounting the crate
| Type of lumber | Performance characteristics |
|---|---|
| The most expensive option, used very rarely. The only advantage is that the process of manufacturing the crate and installing metal tiles is somewhat simplified. The large width makes it easier to screw in the screws. | |
| Most commonly used in all respects best option. The dimensions of the rails are approximately 40 × 50 mm, the height of 50 mm provides effective natural ventilation of the under-roof space of insulated roofs. | |
| The boards must be sanded, otherwise they are damaged by pests and after a few years they lose their strength indicators. At a cost of about 30% cheaper than rails. Unedged boards Depending on the width, you can independently cut into several rails. Such a crate is made for cold roofs that do not have a counter-crate. | |
| Most cheap option. Lumber has two mandatory conditions: the same thickness and the absence of critical damage. Used lumber will be used on non-critical buildings and outbuildings. |
It is desirable to impregnate all lumber of the crate with antiseptics. But professional roofers skip this stage, they guarantee the tightness of the roof, which eliminates the possibility of putrefactive processes.
Modern market building materials offers the widest range of roofing coverings, one of which is the most widespread metal tile.
In addition to aesthetic appearance and durability, the coating is durable, resistant to moisture, UV rays and other environmental influences. The material is environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature fluctuations, fire resistant and easy to install.
When installing the roof, an important role is played by the correct calculation of the pitch of the frame, which is determined by the wavelength of the metal tile. Errors in the calculation may entail a displacement of the entire supporting structure in relation to the place of optimal fastening of the roofing deck on self-tapping screws.
Lathing step calculation
The calculation of the distance between the frame bars for metal tiles is as follows:
- The step of the frame depends on the type of roofing.
- The interval between the boards of the sheathing structure is provided for by the instructions for a certain type of roof. It is calculated from the bottom of the first bar to the top of the second.
- The gap between the first pair of frame bars is always less than between the others.
- The slope line of the roof slope and the index of the protrusion of the metal coating beyond the starting beam of the crate affect the spacing between the planks.
- The correct calculation of the spacing between the first pair of bars is done by measuring the distance from the highest point of the first wave to the bottom of the spot. To do this, a level 1.5 m long is placed on the rafter, measured and an appropriate mark is made. The standard dimensions of the transverse wave are 30-45 cm, in this interval it is recommended to choose the optimal step.
- Using the same level, determine the approximate position of the flooring sheet by placing a triangular ruler to the front bar and marking the location of the point of the desired protrusion, the level is brought to this point.
- The thickness of the starting rail should be greater than the others in order to avoid a hanging protrusion during the installation of the roofing material.
- The length of the subsequent frame beams is measured from the top point of the second plank at regular intervals equal to the roof profile. Tags for load-bearing structure plan every two beams, this is due to the fact that it can be curved, and it will need to be adjusted by stretching along the applied markers.
- The calculation must be carried out strictly from top to bottom, controlling the remaining length of the metal tile.
Necessary materials and tools
As a material for the crate construction, lumber is used:
The most suitable raw material is pine, which is durable, hard and well processed.
To attach the roofing to the frame you will need:
- timber with a section of 50x50 or 40x60 mm;
- beam with a section of 30x1350 or 50x1370 mm (for a counter-lattice);
- board rectangular section 20–35 mm thick and 100 mm wide.
To install the frame, you must have:
- tape measure;
- level;
- triangular ruler;
- felt-tip pen;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- self-tapping screws, nails (the length should be 2 times the thickness of the timber);
- tools for cutting beams (electric jigsaw, electric scissors, hacksaw);
- ladder or wooden platform.
Lathing device
Upon completion of all necessary calculations, selection necessary materials you can proceed to the device of the frame under the coating.
It should be noted that the crate is installed after laying the waterproofing, which is carried out so that the ventilation jets move freely from below under the roofing ridge and are brought out.
If there is a waterproofing and heat-insulating layer for the installation of the roof, it is necessary to install a counter-lattice, which will improve the quality of the roof.
Installation of the crate under the metal tile
The installation technology of the frame is extremely simple and understandable:
- The starting board is fixed strictly along the length of the cornice overhang in a straight line so that it does not protrude beyond the overhang. Its thickness should be 10-15 cm more than the rest.
- The second row is fixed in such a way that the distance of the wave step is less. Subsequent rows - at an equal distance of the wave step.
- The beams are attached to the rafter system by means of self-tapping screws. The use of nails can lead to the destruction of the structure of the wood and reduce the service life. If the choice is stopped on nails, then you should choose slate nails large sizes. To each rafter, the crate should be fastened with two nails.
- An edged board is attached to the bars with a certain step (depending on the brand of coating).
- 2 more beams are installed on the rafters at a distance of no more than 5 cm from each other, which will serve as a support for the roof ridge.
- In the locations of valleys, air ducts and windows, a solid crate is made. The bars on the rafters with this type of frame are placed parallel to the ridge.
- A pair of boards are fixed on the ridge, located to each other in the opposite direction.
- In the manufacture of lathing over thermal insulation, it is unacceptable to make a solid frame or with small gaps, this can disrupt the movement of air flow in the under-roof space and lead to moisture accumulation.
- Before installing the roof deck, a bar is attached to the inside of the valley.
Features of the extreme row of the crate
In the process of constructing the frame, you should pay attention to 3 important features extreme row:
- The device of the crate begins with the fastening of the cornice strip on the bottom of the rafters, which protects the edges of the frame from the damaging effects of precipitation. The following elements of the structure will be equal to this bar, so its installation requires special accuracy. To do this, measure the distance from the wall to the edges of the extreme rafters, if there are discrepancies, they are aligned according to the lowest indicator by means of a stretched thread, along which the length of other parts is adjusted. Fastening is carried out with nails in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 30 cm.
- Before installing the lathing, in order to compensate for the difference with subsequent rows of the frame, the first row is made higher by one wave, which can vary in the range of 2.8–7.5 cm. If the length of the protruding part of the plank is not enough to equip the edge of the roof (40-50 cm) , you can lengthen the rafter leg with the help of a roofing filly. The extension must be aligned along the stretched thread, after which the eaves can be attached.
- Through the first row of the frame, to ensure unimpeded drainage of water and prevent damage to the film, the edge of the waterproofing film is inserted into the drain. For this purpose, in the upper part, the rail is beveled to an angle of 120-140 degrees regarding the rafter leg.
Defects of the lathing under the metal tile
In case of violation of the technology, the installation of a frame under a metal coating may lead to the manifestation of defects:
- the fastening of the roofing material to the crate will not be strong;
- flooring sheets do not fit;
- in the process of attaching additional slats (cornice and gable), difficulties often arise;
- wrinkling of the sheet covering of the slope.
Installation of metal tiles
Immediately before laying the roofing material, the gutter holders and the cornice strip must be installed.
The brackets are installed as follows:
- Fastening of the extreme supporting parts of the drain is necessary for installation right angle slope to drain water in the proper direction. The first holder is fixed with self-tapping screws to eaves plank and bend down.
- Using a level, set a mark for the holder of the lower end of the tray. For every 1 running meter tray slope should be 2-5 mm. The lower holder is attached to the mark made.
- A thread is pulled between the extreme supporting elements, guided by which, the rest of the brackets are mounted in increments of 50–80 cm. The overhang of the water drain from the last holder should not be less than 5 cm.
- The chute corresponding to the size is placed in the holders and fastened with special fasteners.
- Installation should be carried out in such a way that its lower part overlaps the edge of the gutter. If one plank is not enough, install another one with an overlap of 4-5 cm and fix it to the frontal and cornice plank with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm.
- A double-sided adhesive tape is glued over the installed cornice strip and a waterproofing film is glued along its lower edge.
The material laying technology is as follows:
- Installation of the flooring is allowed to start from both the right and left edges. In the option from the right edge, due to the overlapping of the previous wave by the next sheet, an overlay of sheets is created. Otherwise, the next sheet will be placed under the previously laid sheet. No matter which option is chosen, adequate roofing is essential.
- It is easiest to stack the sheets in one row. In order to avoid distortions, it is not worth fixing the material to the crate immediately; at first, the first sheet is not fastened too tightly with one screw. Next, the next one is laid next to it, leveled and both sheets are fixed with threaded screws, without fixing to the frame. The second pair of sheets is stacked similarly.
- The resulting module of two pairs of connected sheets is aligned along the ledge, and then attached to the frame. This scheme for installing metal tiles is suitable only for a short slope.
- Often the flooring is covered with several stripes. To do this, the first pair of sheets is combined into a module like the previous method, and the next sheet is placed above the first, the fourth - above the second. As a result, a module is created from two pairs of sheets, which, upon completion of centering, is fixed to the crate.
- The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of laying roofing on an inclined surface of a triangular configuration. Installation of tiles in this case begins from the center of the inclined surface.
- The center lines of the slope and the first sheet of the cover are connected. Subsequent installation is carried out to the left and right of the start sheet. To work, the sheets will have to be cut, this is the main difficulty.
- Markup simplifies the tool own production, which is a structure of slats 10 cm wide with a movable connection between them. The interval between the bottom side of the plank on the left and the front plane of the board with right side must be 1 m.
- To cut a sheet using a devil, it is placed on the site, a tool is attached to it in such a way that the vertical board is placed on the bevel, and the horizontally laid boards are parallel to the cornice overhang. The marking line is drawn along the outside of the second vertical bar, after which the sheet is removed and cut along the line of the mark.
Installation of battens on a metal roof
The base of wood or metal, on which the metal tile is laid, is called the crate. There are two types of construction, the arrangement of each of them is not particularly difficult, but it affects the overall arrangement of a metal roof. 
Metal tile - a beautiful, durable roof
Metal tile is popular among other roofing materials, which is not surprising. The material is strong, durable, resistant to aggressive influences environment, serves as an undoubted decoration of the roof. The metal tile weighs 10 times less than ordinary tiles, the material is durable, does not break, does not break, has a gentle effect on bearing walls and foundation. Installation of the roof is considered not difficult, it is inexpensive, you can even cover the roof with your own hands, and at any time of the year.
However, metal roofing also has its drawbacks. If there is damage to individual sections of the material, then corrosion may occur. The roof requires a drainage device, soundproofing. The crate under the metal tile is mounted only after laying the waterproofing, as well as laying the layer of membrane vapor barrier. waterproofing material under the metal tile should absorb moisture from the insulation layer, prevent precipitation from entering the under-roof space.
The crate for a metal tile can be any, solid or trellised, it is important that absolutely even boards are used for this, any flaw will interfere with the even fit of the metal tile, affect the quality of the entire roof structure.
A metal tile is a steel sheet, on both sides of which a galvanized or aluminum-zinc coating is applied. Additionally, protective layers of polymer, plastisol, acrylate, pural, polyvinylidene fluoride are applied from the outside. Protective coatings provide a long service life of metal tiles (up to 50 years you don’t have to worry about the roof), they can be smooth, with a texture applied.
The main implementation parameters are quality, aesthetics. High-quality sheets have a steel thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm. Aesthetic parameters - color, dimensions of a metal tile sheet, geometry, surface type. All this affects the cost of metal tiles. 
Types of flooring
The choice of the type of flooring depends on the wave profile of the metal tile. The crate can be made of two types - solid or lattice, can be made of sheet material. The step of the crate under the metal tile is calculated for the lattice type.
A solid roofing surface made of sheet material is made in the form of a flooring of OSB boards, providing a perfectly flat surface on which the roofing sheets are laid. Such installation is simple and fast, the downside is the high cost of OSB.
The crate of a continuous type is mounted from boards. The distance between the boards should not exceed 10mm, it is required for natural ventilation. Boards can be fastened to the rafters with nails with a section of 3 - 3.5 mm, 2 times longer than the thickness of the material used to make the flooring. 
Lattice flooring reduces material consumption, the load on walls and foundations. Each board is nailed with twin nails along the edges of the axis of the rafters. The installation of the lattice structure from the eaves begins. The first boards are especially carefully aligned, since the entire structure of the crate will be oriented along them. To clarify whether the calculations were made correctly, before installing the first boards, a couple of scraps of the counter-lattice are baited and the sheet is tried on, determining the desired protrusion. For the lattice type, the calculation of the step of the boards is required. 
Cladding material requirements
It is preferable to use coniferous boards for lathing, pine, spruce, fir are resistant to decay, resin bags repel moisture. Conifers are inexpensive. Hardwood trees can also be used, antiseptic treatment, wood priming is mandatory. The board for the crate under the metal tile must meet the following requirements:
- residual moisture content of wood 12-15%;
- the same thickness, width;
- smooth surface without flaws, cracks, not behaving.
For flooring gable roof, without architectural frills, you need a board 25x100mm. A board 28 (32) x 100 mm is used for installation under metal tiles with a thick galvanized base for complex roof configurations, in this case, as well as if the step rafter legs is 90-100cm, a beam of 50x50, 40x60 mm is used. To calculate the step, you need to consider which metal tile will be used. The calculation of the material depends on the step, it should be remembered that two boards are stuffed from the bottom of the eaves and from the top of the ridge, plus reinforcements require space near pipes, skylights, and ventilation ducts. In addition, the installation of the crate is not complete without trimming the lumber. Therefore, 10-15% of the boards should be added to the required amount of material. 
Installation of the crate under the metal tile is carried out using the following tools:
- Hammer, medium weight;
- bubble level;
- Roulette;
- Construction pencil;
- Hacksaw;
- Screwdriver;
- Cutting machine for wood;
- Dye cord
It is also worth acquiring a “horse”, a device for applying the same segments, it is not difficult to make it yourself. 
The main and defining parameters are the dimensions of the crate for the metal tile and the step, the distance from one board to another. The step is determined by the waves of the profile, as already mentioned, because the point of attachment of the sheet of metal to the crate is the lower wave, its middle. Here is the strongest place of the sheet, which means that the fixation is the most reliable.
They produce metal tiles with different profiles, choosing the material, determine the step. For example, a sheet with a thickness of 0.4 - 0.5 mm requires a crate step from a board of 25x100m with a distance of 600-900cm. The table shows the correspondence of the step of the crate to the shape of the metal tile.
The usual step of the crate for metal tiles is 35 cm. This is the distance from the bottom of one board to the middle of the next. The counter-lattice is made from a board 25x50mm, with a rafter spacing of 60-70cm. 
Lathing installation scheme step by step
The device of the lathing under the metal tile is the final stage of the installation of the roof frame. Arrangement begins after it is done roof structure, steam and waterproofing, insulation, noise protection were laid and a control grill was mounted. Before proceeding with the installation of the flooring, it is necessary to stretch the vapor-tight membrane over the entire surface with overlaps of 6-10 cm over the truss system with insulation, waterproofing. Fill it with counter rails at the top along the line of the ridge beam, then along the edges of the slopes, from below along the cornice strip. The thickness of the counter rail is 24-28mm.
The device of the crate under the metal tile begins with the fastening of the starting board, which should be carefully aligned. The step of the bottom board should provide an overhang of the edge of the sheet; overlapping of 1/3 of the drain is required. With a step of 350mm, the distance between the eaves and the starting rail will be 280cm.
Next, you should lay the boards according to the markup, strictly maintaining the horizontal. It is necessary to monitor the evenness of the resulting surface. Docking of boards should take place on the rafters, but only end-to-end, in no case overlapping.
Next, mark the step of the crate. Use a tape measure, a “horse” template, a pencil. The distance between the starting and following board of the crate needs to be made smaller, this is necessary for the protrusion of the metal tile. 
Around the pipes window openings, in places where metal tiles adjoin the valleys, it is necessary to lay a solid flooring 15-20 cm wide, if necessary, install additional rafters.
The final stage is the device of the skate. For the device of the ridge bar, additional boards are used, which are mounted at a distance of 4-6 cm, from each slope, and the bar is planted on them. To do everything right, you need to follow this instruction step by step.
How to make a crate for a metal tile made of wood is understandable. However, it happens that the flooring is made of a metal profile.
Using a metal profile for the crate
Roof sheathing under a metal tile using a metal profile is rare. The feasibility of such a design always raises questions. Metal is more expensive than wood, a considerable weight creates additional loads on the walls and foundation. The method is used when it is necessary to equip the roof with large spans of industrial buildings. The advantages of the profile are that such a design is not subject to rotting, humidity, temperature changes.
The installation scheme is the same, they make a crate of 30x30 square pipes, the installation is carried out by welding or bolted, the sheets are fixed with metal screws, but the calculation is different, depending on what sizes of sheets are used. But since such a crate for a metal tile is not done by hand, then it makes no sense to think about it. 
Qualitatively made flooring under a metal tile increases its service life, uneven flooring will lead to deformation of the roof, corrosion, and a decrease in the stability and reliability of the structure.
Do-it-yourself installation of the crate under the metal tile
To install a roof made of metal sheets and tiles, a special frame is required. Installation of the crate under the metal tile is easily done by hand, if you have all the necessary building materials and instructions.
Design features of the crate under the metal tile
The frame, crate or carrier system is the most important factor of all that affects the durability of the building. If you decide to install a metal roof, then you should immediately be prepared for difficulties, because when working with other roofing materials one optimal gap between beams or sectional area is allowed.
Photo - the principle of installation of metal tiles
Features of the crate under the metal tile:
- You can mount the frame in two ways: solid or in increments. In the first case, the boards are installed almost close to each other, i.e. no gaps at all. This is necessary because of the peculiar structure of the metal tile and the principles of its installation. In the second, you need to make a gap, the distance of which will be at least 350 mm, this method is good for large tiles, but is mainly used for corrugated board;
- You need to be very careful about the choice of bars and boards. Most commonly used wooden beam with a section of 50 mm, and a board with dimensions of 32x100 mm;
- Before starting work, you need to process wooden surfaces special antiseptic compositions. When laying metal tiles, there are often some gaps or crevices that moisture will penetrate into. Condensation will cause mold to develop in the frame or wood rot;
- Each metal tile has its own unique wave. When installing the frame, you need to carefully study the purchase and only after starting the construction of the carrier system;
- Do not forget to cover the tree with a layer of hydro and vapor barrier;
- The first board of the frame is slightly wider than the rest, about one and a half centimeters.
Photo - the difference between solid and gap battens
Many manufacturers of metal tiles have their own requirements for the installation of the coating. If there are any, they will be indicated on the box with the building material or in the installation instructions that come with the purchase.
How to make a crate with your own hands
Our installation instructions can be used by both professional builders and novice craftsmen. Let's first consider installation option for crates with a step. To get started, you need to draw up a plan of action. Also pay due attention to the drawing, with it the process will go much faster, because. it will immediately be clear what needs to be taken on in the first place, and what sizes of beams are needed:
- It is necessary to cover the roof with waterproofing material. This will be required so that the tree does not collapse under the influence of condensate, which rises to the ceiling of the dwelling. A layer of such a film must be passed under the drainage system during installation;
- Directly on the waterproofing layer, you need to install a beam of the selected section. Let's take 50 mm as an example, i.e. bar with parameters 50x50;
- To the general rafter system the bars must be fixed with self-tapping screws. It is not advisable to use nails - they destroy the structure of the tree and contribute to a decrease in its durability, but if you have opted for them, then it is better to choose large slate nails;
- After that, an edged board is mounted to the bars. It needs to be laid with a certain step. Carefully study the installation instructions for the selected brand of metal tiles - some manufacturers do not allow the installation of building material on the crate in increments of less than 30 cm;
- Next, two more beams must be fixed to the rafter beams, which will serve as a support for the ridge of the metal roof. They must be installed at a distance of no more than five centimeters from each other;
- We remind you that for the roof that will be covered metal tiles, the optimal design is gable. With such an organization of the roof, it does not overload the foundation and looks stylish in any exterior;
After fixing the boards, you can proceed with the installation of metal tiles. It also needs to be installed using self-tapping screws and special tools. The metal roof pie in this case will look like this:
Photo - Roofing cake
If you want to make a crate for a metal tile with gap-free installation then detailed instructions are provided below:
- The roof is also covered with a layer of waterproofing material. At this stage, you can make another layer - a vapor barrier surface. It is very important to stretch it without seams, otherwise water will still penetrate under the roof;
- After we install the bars. Unlike the first method, they need to be mounted without a gap or with a minimum (as many builders do in order to save building materials). Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws with wide heads using a screwdriver;
- On a layer of beams you need to install boards for crates. If you have chosen a non-gap installation of the crate under a galvanized metal tile, then most likely you have a material with a small wave. You don’t have to worry about the complexity of covering the frame - the tile will lie beautifully and tightly due to the universal corrugation;
- Similarly to the first method, it is time to install the ridge board. To do this, two beams are installed at the top point of the roof at a distance of five centimeters from each other;
- This technology is suitable for a small house, utility room or building with a solid monolithic foundation. It must be remembered that the metal tile itself is quite heavy, and the continuous crate is another factor that makes the entire structure heavier.
Photo - Roof frame made of metal tiles
To calculate whether it is possible to use such a carrier system on your house, you need to contact the design office for help and order a project there. With this approach, you will immediately receive not only detailed instructions on installation, but also recommendations on the choice of building material.
Video: do-it-yourself installation of the crate
Calculation of the estimate
To install the crate for metal tiles, you need to stock up on the following details:
- Self-tapping screws construction and mounting nails (if necessary);
- Manual cordless screwdriver;
- Special walkways and ladders, climbing equipment for high-rise works- all this will help you move along the surface of the roof;
- Wooden boards and beams, bars for the ridge;
- Metal tiles;
- Paints and varnishes. Primer, sealants, antiseptics, grout for metal tile attachment points;
- Additional elements - gutters, snow retainers, collars for chimneys.
It is also very important to remember about the need for insulation. Of course, a crate for a cold attic does not imply an additional layer of thermal insulation. But if you have a house without an attic or this room is used as a living room, then you need to take care of this factor.
Photo - crate for metal tiles with insulation
On construction forums, home craftsmen recommend working with self-tapping screws with gaskets so that they do not scratch the surface. After installation, each self-tapping screw must be treated with a special primer, sealant and, if desired, paint (so that the fasteners do not stand out on the common surface of the roof). Every six months, clean the roof of dirt: leaves, dirt. In winter, you need to clean off the snow layer so that it does not form additional pressure on the house.