How to restore a coffee table. Old new table - restoration and renovation with your own hands. Creative ways to upgrade
Furniture, which is varnished, is returned to use. After all, lacquered products look rich, and give originality and solidity to the interior. Although, what to prevaricate, her surface is quite problematic. It can be easily damaged. A very common defect is the occurrence of scratches. You should not immediately get rid of the damaged table, but you should try to restore it. You can entrust this process to master restorers or try to restore a lacquered table with your own hands.
Restoration technique
Let's figure out how to restore a varnished table by the restoration method. This is one of the most better ways returning a decent look to a varnished table. For example, to eliminate scratches, it is necessary to remove a layer of varnish on defective places, and then apply a new one. This method is quite effective and allows you to get rid of any scratches. But not only scratches are a problem for lacquered furniture. The next disadvantage that may appear over time is the darkening of the varnished surface. As a result of clouding of the surface of the countertop, appearance the table begins to lose significantly in relation to other furniture. Such a defect is corrected in a similar way: removing the old layer of varnish and re-applying a new one. This method is quite simple, and it is quite possible to varnish old table with your own hands.
The sequence of restoration work
You can update an old lacquered table in several stages. But first you should prepare some tools and materials and think about your safety. So, let's get acquainted in detail with the algorithm for performing work on the restoration of a varnished table.
Determining the degree of wear
Before restoring the varnish on the table, you should initially assess the degree of defects formed.
Choosing a material
The question arises how to remove the varnish from the table. To ensure the quality of the restoration, it is necessary to choose the right materials. Many believe that problem areas can be removed with alcohol. In some cases, minor defects can indeed be applied with alcohol, but unforeseen consequences may occur, such as roughness, light areas, and so on. Therefore, we will focus on specialized materials that will be good helpers for beginners.
- Shellac polish. Such material not only helps to restore the surface, but emphasize its originality. This is one of the oldest and most proven materials. The consistency of the polish is more like a liquid than a varnish. To achieve a high-quality result, this composition is applied about 50 - 60 layers. It is because of this that the original deep color is achieved. This is a very good option that will allow you to remove scratches on a varnished table.
- Nitrocellulose varnish. This solution is used to restore large surfaces of the table. For its application, sprayers are used, which provide a very fast and uniform spray. At a lower speed, the droplets of the solution begin to solidify, and it will be quite difficult to achieve the desired effect of a smooth and uniform surface. That is why the use of standard spray guns is not recommended, which additionally form air bubbles, which are almost impossible to get rid of.
- Pentaphthal varnish. This is an ideal material for the restoration of the table, as it is quite easy to work with. It does not require special devices for application and dries fairly quickly. Apply it in at least 4 layers. It is possible to exclude the purchase of primer solutions, since the first layer of pentaphthalic varnish will act as a primer. After applying the composition and its complete drying, grinding should be done.
After you have decided on the choice of the restoration composition, you need to pay attention to such a moment as the definition of color. You can use a colorless varnish, or you can purchase a varnish that mimics the color of any wood. In the second case, it is necessary to correctly determine the tone of the varnish.
Step-by-step instruction
Let's bring detailed instructions, which will answer the question of how to properly varnish a wooden table. It consists of several stages:
- The preparatory stage consists of the following aspects:
- the surface of the table is thoroughly cleaned with a specialized composition or with ordinary warm water;
- remove the damaged layer with a scraper;
- we begin to grind the surface with sandpaper until it becomes dull;
- clean the surface from dust.
- Applying water-based varnish:
- the surface is covered with several layers of water-based varnish;
- each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried;
- after the last layer is completely dry, we perform surface grinding;
- clean the surface from dust.
- Performing work with acrylic-based varnish:
- initially we choose a varnish that matches the surface of the table in terms of shade and gloss;
- diluting the varnish by 15% with white spirit, we prime the surface;
- after the primer layer has dried, we perform intermediate grinding;
- we cover the surface of the table with undiluted varnish in several layers, allowing the previous layer to dry first;
- We perform surface polishing.
- Please note that after applying all layers to give the surface a glossy sheen, the surface should be sanded.
By following all the recommendations, you can get a very high quality varnished surface. It is clear that in order to get decent quality, you should use an airbrush. Below is a translated video on varnishing the table and given helpful tips for restoration.
Has old furniture lost its former luster? I'm tired, but it's a pity to throw it away? All this is fixable: you can improve the appearance so that no one will think that the furniture is many years old. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is hard work. But you don't have to do anything super complicated. Some methods are so simple that everyone can do it (we are not talking about antiques, of course).
Restoration of wooden surfaces
No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains still occur. They are easy to eliminate. The main thing is to know how and why.
Restoring the polish
Restoring a layer of varnish is a difficult task. Any restoration of furniture begins with cleaning and degreasing and repairing the varnish coating too. We use detergent for dishes, diluted in water: safe and reliable. After drying, we proceed to update the polishing.
You can simply refresh the faded polish on the furniture with mixtures prepared by yourself:
- Two parts of linseed oil and turpentine and a part of vinegar. Everything is mixed, applied with a swab, wait until it is absorbed and polished.
- Mix oil and beer in equal parts and wipe the furniture with this composition. Rub after soaking.
- A more shiny surface will be if the beer is boiled with a piece of wax, cooled and applied slightly warm to the furniture. When the composition is absorbed, the surface is rubbed to a shine.
More recipes in the video.
How to remove polish from furniture
Quite often you have to remove the polishing: this is not the most fashionable finish. Modern furniture is most often painted with opaque or tinted paints, and the surface is matte. In any case, you need to remove the polish. There are several ways. Since varnishes are different in composition, you have to select empirically. But one of the methods should work.
How to paint polished furniture
If a old furniture prepared for painting, it must be cleaned of dust, wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry. After leveling everything with putty, smooth out all the bumps, wait until it dries. Take sandpaper and sand again, first with medium, then with fine grain. Next, apply a layer of primer and wait for it to dry.
The primer is bought for the paint that is going to be used, or the paint can be diluted with a compatible solvent and covered instead of primer. After drying, you can paint.
You can paint with a roller or brush. Usually several coats are needed: do not try to apply a lot of paint at once, as streaks may appear. It is better to apply several thin layers. So the surface will be smooth and uniform. Another trick: for uniform coloring, layers are applied in different directions - along, then across. This also applies to the application of varnish.
Some varnishes are easier to work with when they are warm. They are slightly heated and then applied with a spray gun or brush. When warming up, you need to be careful: vapors can flare up.
In order of staining: first, the inner surfaces, edges and joints are painted, then they move on to the outer ones. With this sequence, there is less chance of getting dirty or touching the already painted surface, ruining it.
If the varnish coating is even, without defects, and it needs to be painted over, you can do without removing this layer. There are special primers for difficult surfaces. Coat the surface with them, and paint after drying. They have components that penetrate even the varnish layer. Therefore, the paint will be applied well and hold on for a long time. But such soils have a minus: they are expensive. But they do save a lot of time.
Some secrets of wood coloring (including brushing and coloring in two colors) are in the article "". See the video for a few secrets of even application of acrylic paint.
If the restoration did not bring the expected result, maybe you need to change the appearance? How
How to restore veneer
Veneered furniture requires a special approach. The means are basically the same, the methods are different. For example, if after hitting the veneer is swollen, draw PVA glue into a disposable syringe, pierce the bubble, and inject glue into the cavity. Lay a piece of dense fabric on top and put a load. If the surface is uneven (convex or concave), a bag of dense fabric with heated sand is used as a load.
If the veneer is glued to alcohol glue, you can return the swollen part to its place by ironing it through a rag with a hot iron. But do not overheat the iron: the veneer can stretch. The degree of heating is medium.
If ironing through a dry cloth does not help, try again with a damp cloth (wet and wring it out well). There is a chance that the wood will swell and become more elastic. To securely fix the swelling, you can introduce PVA there, and then heat it with an iron.
If the swelling is cracked, you can also try to seal it with heating (through a rag). If it does not work, tear off the exfoliated piece. You don’t cut it off, but break it off: on the veneer, the fractures after restoration are less noticeable than the cuts. Therefore, you break off the lagging piece. From the place of damage and a piece of veneer are cleaned old glue(sandpaper or nail files - depending on the size). Further, the repair of veneer on furniture is standard: they smeared it with PVA glue, laid it, aligning the fault lines, laid a thick fabric on top and put the load to dry.
Scratches and traces of restoration on veneer are removed in the same way as on wood: they are painted over with a furniture marker of a suitable shade. If the scratch is deep, a little molten wax for furniture restoration is applied to it (with a spatula). After drying, the wax is rubbed, if necessary, fine-grained sandpaper is used, but after such processing, the restored piece is covered with a layer of varnish.
Do-it-yourself furniture restoration requires patience and accuracy. We have to act gradually and methodically: smeared, waiting for drying, leveled, smeared again, etc. Sometimes you have to try several methods: the damage is different, as are the materials used in the manufacture (glue, varnishes, etc.). But as a result, the furniture will look much better.
It is not uncommon for a favorite piece of furniture to lose its original appearance, and there is simply no financial means to buy a new one. In such cases, furniture restoration can help. Let's take a closer look at how to restore a table at home, what is important to consider and what stages should not be missed.
Ways
There are quite a few ways to restore furniture, ranging from a light “cosmetic” decor to a major alteration of the product. Restoring an old table with your own hands is not so difficult if it does not have any serious damage. In this case, it will be enough to sand and paint the old piece of furniture so that it shines in a whole new light.
Repair glass tables at home can be more labor intensive and also a very costly process. If there is a breakage of the glass surface, it may be necessary not only to repair it, but also to buy a new one, since not all glass deformation can be eliminated by gluing and grinding.
The greatest scope for creativity opens up during restoration wooden table. After all, various painting and patterning techniques, including the “decoupage” technique, are perfectly applied to solid wood furniture. It is worth noting that painting and various decorative techniques are most applicable to small tables. This can be done finishing, for example, a small desk or a compact coffee table. But for the restoration of the oak folding model, additional resources may be needed. Since the table has a large solid surface, it is quite acceptable to finish its parts with materials such as MDF and chipboard. Securely fixed and carefully processed, they will give the table not only new life, but also give a completely different appearance.
A plastic table can be restored using the same painting, but this can only be done if the piece of furniture does not have serious cracks. Plastic is a rather capricious material, and when exposed to high temperatures, the glued seam may not withstand, which will lead to a new breakdown.
Computer tables made of chipboard and chipboard are often peeled off, as a result of which their appearance becomes sloppy and careless. To repair such models, special adhesive tapes and films imitating a wooden surface are suitable.
The kitchen table-book needs to be reconstructed as carefully as possible, using exclusively environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic materials. Since the countertop comes into contact with food quite often, care must be taken that the materials for finishing its surface are not toxic and unhealthy. The same applies to the children's table.
Restoration of a polished dining table can be done by grinding the surface and applying a new layer of decorative varnish to it. So the surface of the furniture attribute will again acquire a glossy sheen.
Sometimes it may be necessary to increase the height, for example, of a dressing table, in case of breakage of its legs. In that case, from wood material special allowances or new legs are being built required size. To update any model, you can also use the classic hand-painted. This technique is also suitable for sliding tables that do not have any critical surface damage.
Materials and tools
The restoration process may require various materials and tools.
Let's take a closer look at their list and purpose:
- To restore tables with wooden surface, you will definitely need a grinding machine or coarse sandpaper. With these tools, you can make the surface smooth, removing all the roughness;
- To give the surface a fresher look and a different color, you will need a completely ordinary paint. Finding out which variety you can paint the table is quite easy, since the scope is almost always described on the packaging of any manufacturer;
- It is best to apply various patterns and ornaments with acrylic paint, since it is very resistant and will stay on the surface of the furniture for a long time.
To repair any individual parts of the table, you may need various construction tools:
- For example, with a hammer, screws and simple nails, you can properly fix the legs of the table;
- To fasten panels made of plastic and MDF, it will be necessary to acquire a special glue, which is also called liquid nails and is often used in repairs;
- To work with wooden parts, you must have a small saw or jigsaw with you, with which you can cut the necessary part from a piece of wood.
It is impossible to lose sight of various small details, which greatly simplify the restoration process. So it’s better to have a large ruler or tape measure, a bright marker or pencil, construction tape, brushes to remove dust and sawdust, protective equipment and a damp cloth with you.
Step by step update process
Repairing a piece of furniture at home as a whole, in the form in which it is, is an almost impossible task, since many details need an individual approach. For example, it is better to remove the countertop during the finishing of the remaining parts in order to protect it from causing even more damage.
Self-restoration of even the smallest table can be a very time-consuming process if the approach is not correct, skipping important details and steps. It is for the timely implementation of each stage of work that it is necessary to draw up an action plan.
Damage Inspection
Before proceeding with the restoration, it is necessary to carefully examine the front of the upcoming work. Very often there are products with serious damage, which can not be dealt with only by means of a cosmetic finish. For example, if a table leg has fallen off, painting will not fix it.
The first step is to disassemble the table, if the model allows it., and carefully examine the surface of each part for serious damage. If there are none, you can proceed to further actions, depending on the intended restoration work.
If the surface of the parts has rather deep cuts, severe chips or serious damage, it will be necessary to take measures to eliminate them. In the event that damage cannot be simply repaired, it may be necessary to resort to replacing any part of the furniture attribute.
Only after careful examination and identification of all " weaknesses» piece of furniture, you can draw up a further plan of action and proceed directly to the process of restoration work itself. Consistency is very important in this case.
Grinding
In any repair process, after determining the "front of work", the stage of cleaning and smoothing the surface follows. Restoration of tables is no exception and, regardless of their varieties, grinding of individual parts is an indispensable part of the whole process.
If there is no special device for grinding the surface at hand, you will need to use sandpaper. To remove the remnants of the old surface, you need a view with a coarse-grained surface.
If it is possible to use a belt machine for grinding surfaces, you should opt for it, as it will help speed up the process. But you should know that the machine is only suitable for processing spacious flat surfaces, and small parts still have to be processed manually.
If the coating is removed completely and it is only necessary to give the surface smoothness, fine-grained paper should be used. Thus, the roughness will be smoothed out without damaging the surface. In no case should you sand the surface across the fibers, since they are quite damaged and scratches of different depths form. Processing is carried out exclusively along the location of the fibers. It is also worth using a respirator or a special mask in order to avoid getting dust and small particles of wood into the respiratory tract.
putty
As mentioned earlier, in the presence of severe damage and deep scratches, it will be necessary to get rid of them. The simplest and most affordable way is putty. In addition, even the largest holes can be sealed with putty, so that replacement parts may no longer be a necessity.
It is necessary to use only special putty for wood, since the usual composition for others repair work will not fit and will not adhere to a wooden surface.
If the surface of the product has only shallow cracks, you can use the stain, and then apply several layers of protective varnish. In this way, the fibrous structure of the wood elements will be preserved and beautifully designed.
After applying the putty and before applying the final coating, the surface must be carefully primed and sanded again. The primer will help degrease parts of the furniture attribute, and re-sanding will smooth out the remaining irregularities.
Painting
final and very milestone requiring special attention, is the surface painting process. It is important not only to choose the right paint, but also to carefully apply it without various formations, lumps, bumps and protect the freshly painted surface from the ingress of small particles of wool, dust and hairs.
Dark shades are best applied in several thin layers. So the paint will grab better, and the color will turn out to be more saturated.
To create the effect of antiquity and scuffs, the painted surface of the table will need to be sanded in certain places.
You should carefully select the shades and apply the paint very carefully, because if you are dissatisfied with your work, it will be quite difficult to repaint the table, you will have to re-do all the laborious work, starting from the surface grinding stage.
In order for the gloss to shine beautifully on the surface, the surface should be treated with a layer of varnish, and after it dries, with a protective layer. Most often, various polishing compounds are used to protect the surface of furniture, as well as wax mixtures, which, when rubbed into the surface of the table, will give it a glossy shine, protect it from dirt and large accumulations of dust.
You can see how to update the old table in the next video.
Finishing and decoration
After painting or during its process, if desired, you can additionally decorate the surface of the table, giving it a lighter, more casual and informal look. Consider the most common and beautiful ways decor of restored tables.
If you have an old dinner table, which is dear to you as a memory, or you just want to reasonably save money on buying new furniture, then you have an interesting job as a restorer or decorator.
Keep in mind that restoring a kitchen table with your own hands is not the easiest and, in some cases, not justified, because not every table can be repaired, and it is better to entrust antiques to professionals. But more often than not, the right "upgrade" can bring your old friend back to life and transform him beyond recognition.
How can the table be updated?
To update kitchen table with your own hands, you can use one of the following proven technologies:
- Traditional painting - this is the method we will consider in detail in a step-by-step master class.
- An interesting way of decorating and painting furniture is coloring through tulle - a tabletop is painted through it, and a lace pattern is formed according to the principle of a stencil.
- Ceramic tiles will allow you to decorate a dilapidated, badly damaged countertop and make it more practical - you can put hot on such a surface and wash it in any way.
- You can update the old table using decoupage technique. We will also talk about it in more detail.
- An easy way to modify the table with your own hands quickly and on a budget is to paste over it with a self-adhesive film.
- Burning will renew an undamaged wood surface.
Master class - 6 steps on the way to a new life
In this simple DIY dining table restoration tutorial, we'll be updating, repairing and repainting this old veneered table with a moderate amount of imperfections.
So, to update the kitchen table you will need:
- a grinder or sandpaper of coarse, medium and fine grit, as well as glasses, a respirator and gloves;
- alkyd enamel paint of the desired color (or other desired coating, such as stain), as well as a flat, non-shedding paint or art brush;
- primer for wood and a small roller / brush for priming;
- wax paste or varnish.
Step 1. Inspect and repair parts
We carefully examine all the fasteners in the structure and the defects of the countertop - how much the veneer has delaminated or the tree has been damaged.
If the table is a little loose, then you just need to tighten all the screws. If it requires a more serious restoration, then you need to completely disassemble the table, re-fasten all the parts, or clean and sand all the grooves and joints so that the new glue grabs better, fix the glued parts with clamps or self-tapping screws, and then remove them after 15 hours, when the glue is completely dry.
- Sometimes the underframe needs to be replaced, not only because its parts are very dilapidated, but also because the legs can completely modify your old table. For example, if earlier the legs were simple, now you can replace them with beautiful carved balusters.
- When disassembling furniture, do not forget to mark the installation location of each of the parts, so you will not get confused and quickly complete the task.
Step 2. Remove the old coating
Now put on goggles and prepare 2 types of sandpaper: coarse-grained for primary processing and fine-grained for smoothing. Get ready for a long and laborious job - removing old paint or varnish is not an easy task.
Step 3. We close up cracks and chips
After grinding, we carefully clean the table from dust, inspect the countertop and look for defects. Keep in mind that even the smallest damage will be visible after painting. All chips and cracks must be locally repaired with wood putty or polyester putty, and then sanded the entire surface again when the “patches” dry out.
Note - covering the table with stain:
- if the countertop is not severely damaged, then you can not hide the natural beauty of the wood and cover it with stain, and then with varnish, shellac or wax. The photo below shows an example of a restored table with a stained oak top.
Step 4. Prime and sand again
We continue to work. Now we need not only to clean the table, but also to degrease it. And after the table dries, proceed to the primer. This stage is mandatory, because without it the paintwork will lie unevenly and quickly be damaged. You can use an alkyd or shellac wood primer. In this master class, the universal alkyd primer Zinsser Cover Stain (pictured below) was used, which dries in just 1 hour, protects the wood well and prepares it for painting. It costs about 500-600 rubles, but is not sold everywhere. The table can be primed in 1-2 coats with a small sponge roller, allowing each coat to dry completely.
When the primer is dry (1 day), sand the countertop again with sandpaper or a medium-grit sanding sponge to smooth the primed surface and prepare it for painting. And don't forget to put your respirator back on!
Step 5. Now let's start painting.
It is very important to choose the right paint and its color. Avoid cheap paints, because this is a dining table, which means that the countertop should be well tolerated by frequent washing, rubbing, bumps, etc. In this case, a premium water-based alkyd enamel paint with a satin finish is used, but you can choose a more environmentally friendly acrylic-based enamel. Also, choose a quality brush with passion so that it does not shed in the process. Not a paintbrush, but a large flat art brush is perfect.
The paint must be applied in 2 thin layers, while the finish layer is best left to dry for 3-4 days.
- If you chose dark color paint, it is better to apply it in 3 thin layers;
- To create scuffs in the style, the paint can be sanded in some places, for example, on the ends of the table;
- Also, to create the effect of "antique", the table can be patinated.
Step 6. Apply a protective coating
As we said, you can protect the surface of the table with a varnish, for example, a matte water-based polyurethane (in the photo on the left is an excellent varnish from Varathane). It should be applied evenly in 2-3 thin layers, lightly sanding each layer before applying the next layer of varnish. Of course, all layers must be completely dry before sanding (4 hours).
The second option is wax protection, which will make the countertop matte and can be rubbed to a shine. To do this, the wax should be gently rubbed with a cotton cloth into the wood, then allow the first layer to dry for at least 1 hour. After that, polish the surface in a circular motion, and repeat the procedure 2 more times within one day. Well, now be patient and leave the table for 1 week so that the surface acquires the necessary operational properties.
Well, that's all - the restoration is completed, and the old table has found a new life in trendy white.
And here's another interesting video from the program "Cheap and cheerful" on the topic of restoring countertops at home from improvised means.
Updating the countertop with decoupage
If you do not want to stop there or your table does not have serious damage, but just needs a little update, then you can decorate the table with drawings: paint it manually with acrylic paints, use stencils and stamps, or update the table with decoupage. Perhaps, it is this decor technique that is popular today that we will consider in more detail, because decoupage will allow not only to transform the table on a budget and quickly or, for example, style it under Shabby chic (as in the photo below), but also hide some defects of the dilapidated surface.
To update the table with your own hands using the decoupage technique, you will need:
- acrylic primer and acrylic paints - if desired;
- putty for wood beige;
- grinder and sandpaper of varying degrees of graininess;
- rubber spatulas;
- artistic flat and artificial brushes;
- matte or semi-gloss varnish for wood;
- napkins for decoupage or decoupage card;
- scissors;
- PVA glue or special glue for decoupage.
Decor using the decoupage technique can be started either after the stage of priming and polishing it (see step number 4 above), or after painting and varnishing. Then you should choose a picture - it can be any image on paper or table napkins, as well as special rice paper for decoupage.
First, markup is performed, lightly marking with a pencil the places where the images will be located. We put the cut out paper image “face down” in a container with water and hold for half a minute. Then the soaked image is laid out in the same way “face down” on a plastic file, and all excess paper layers are rolled off. Then the picture is carefully smeared with glue and attached to the countertop. The file is not removed - through it the image is smoothed as much as possible.
The surface around the pictures is decorated with paint. The final stage of decoupage is varnishing with acrylic varnish. After three days, the varnish will dry and the table can be fully used.
And finally, a selection of photos for your inspiration.
Remember, I told you how I dreamed about round table? And how long did you think and search? And then the “old underframe” almost found me. Beautiful, about the middle of the last century.
And now, a month later, the table is ready, took its rightful place :) and makes us happy :)
And today I will show how the restoration process went.
Let's prepare the tools. I have this small Sander, plus separate sheets of sandpaper of different numbers for self made. All kinds of brushes, napkins and more :).
Let me remind you how I got the underframe. Purchased at an auction "hammer".
First, I sanded all the old coating - it was an old varnish and it succumbed to sanding well (surprisingly).
I processed large planes with a machine, and all the round parts, hollows, small parts manually.
First with large sandpaper, then smaller. and then quite small.
The job took about three evenings :). The result is this beauty.
After the entire underframe was sanded, I carefully vacuumed it, wiped it with a damp cloth, dried it well and once again checked the smoothness and uniformity of the entire surface. Making sure it's ready for finishing got to work :)
Prepared the coating and brush. In my choice of coating, this time I settled on “JOHNSTONE`S Satin Woodstain Protective semi-matte coating”.
Before starting work, I filtered the composition through nylon into a clean disposable bowl. To clean the brush, I prepared a solvent in a separate jar. She also kept a rag soaked in solvent at hand, so that in case of an error she could quickly correct it.
She laid a large sheet of covering material on the floor. Turned the pedestal upside down. And she began to carefully apply “paint”.
There is no need to rush during the coloring process. You can't get too much paint on a brush. Paint or varnish should not pour over the product, otherwise there will be smudges that will then dry out and ruin the product.
It is necessary to cover at least 2 times with a time interval of 1 day (or follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the paintwork material).
So, the underframe is ready, now proceeded to the countertop.
We purchased a round pine table top with a diameter of 100 cm. I also sanded it well. But due to the fact that pine is a soft material, it takes some work to achieve smoothness. After each fumigation, I wiped the countertop with a damp cloth, thereby lifting the pile of soft fibers. And I was satisfied only after the villi stopped rising.
With the help of a level, the tabletop was installed on the underframe and secured with dowels and special glue for wood.
After it “sticked” I applied the first coat of paint.
The next day, when the coating was absorbed and dried, I sanded the countertop again with the finest sandpaper. And applied another coat of paint. A day later, I wet the countertop with water and sanded it “wet” again.
So it turned out for me 4 layers, until the surface began to satisfy me completely. It turned out perfectly smooth and even.