Proper plastering of drywall. Do-it-yourself plasterboard putty for finishing. Step-by-step instructions for performing work

Puttying is a mandatory step in preparing walls and ceilings for painting or wallpapering. Surfaces are leveled with a putty mixture, all defects and shortcomings are removed on it. Puttying drywall with your own hands is a simple, but painstaking process. Some features of materials, process technologies and rules will be discussed in the article.

Despite the flat surface of the sheets, after installation remains a large number of joints and fixing points that require sealing. To do this, it is important, first of all, to choose the right material for repair.

Mixtures for plasterboard putty are:

• Starting. They have a large grain size, they are used for leveling surfaces (see Aligning walls with putty according to all the rules).
• Finishing. They have a fine grain, are used for applying the last layer, creating a perfectly flat surface for painting or wallpapering.
• Universal. These are both leveling and decorative materials. But they are used only in the absence of large defects on the surface.

The main compositions and their features are presented in the table:

Putty can be ready-to-use or dry mix.

Puttying drywall with your own hands is best done with self-prepared solutions from dry mixes.

There are several reasons for this:

• Long stored.
• The quality of the material is not affected by temperature fluctuations.
• Can be diluted and used in certain volumes.

How to choose and breed putty shows in detail the video in this article.

Surface preparation

This stage includes the following operations:

• The protruding heads of fasteners are twisted to failure or flush with the surface.

It is difficult to imagine building and repair work in which drywall would not be used. They make from it internal partitions, boxes for plumbing and sewer pipes, multi-level ceilings, arches, decorative elements in the interior. Sheets of drywall align the walls, significant defects in the ceilings.

Smooth, broken, rounded plasterboard structures should be puttied before painting or wallpapering. How to properly putty drywall without being a finishing master, we will cover in this article.

Tools

For independent work you will need:

• foam rollers and brushes for priming,
• stainless steel spatulas 10, 20 and 40-50 cm wide,
• containers for the mixture and for water,
• sanding grater with attachments for mesh or paper,
• sandpaper or sanding paint mesh,
• mixer attachment for drill,
• construction knife
• rule 1.5-2.0 m long
• respirator, goggles, rubber gloves.

Work materials

• deep penetration soil
• putty,
• sickle or paper perforated tape for seams,
• perforated metal and plastic corners,
• fiberglass,
• glass glue.

putty

Every novice finisher has a question, what is the best way to putty drywall. For work, rough and finishing gypsum, cement or polymer putty is used. On sale there are dry mixes and ready-made solutions.

Attention ! Following the principle: “like connects like”, it is preferable to apply gypsum putties on drywall.

For interior decoration with high humidity suitable cement, lime compounds or polymer putty.

For the main finish, the craftsmen use Fugenfüller or cement Hercules gypsum putty, for the top layer - finishing polymer Bergauf or Ceresit.

Surface preparation

The quality of the finish depends on how well the drywall is ready for applying a layer of putty. For this you should:

Padding

The purpose of applying the primer is to create a polymer film that prevents moisture from penetrating deep into and possible peeling of the drywall paper coating, as well as to increase the adhesion of the putty to the base.

Any deep penetration primer can be used, but professionals recommend the Ceresit CT17 primer. It creates a strong film. It is recommended to apply it in 2-3 layers, each next one is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Solution preparation

Gypsum putty is very demanding on the cleanliness of the container in which the mixture is prepared, and sets quickly enough. The solution should be prepared for 0.5-1 hour of work according to the instructions on the package.

When pouring dry powder into water, add it until dry islands appear on the surface. This indicates that the proportions are met. The mixture must be quickly stirred until a homogeneous composition and the absence of lumps and leave for 5 minutes. Putty should be the density of sour cream. After that, mix again and you can get to work.

Attention ! Mixing the gypsum putty solution after preparation is not recommended.

Preparation of corners and joints

Puttying drywall begins with the preparation of corners and joints. Here you will need a narrow spatula and a small amount of mortar.

What kind of putty putty plasterboard seams? To do this, use the composition of Knauf Fugen. The embroidered seams are filled with a mixture, then strips of a special self-adhesive mesh or perforated paper are glued and smoothed with a spatula. Mesh 5-10 cm wide will provide a strong grip.

After the putty has completely dried, you need to check if the threads of the reinforcing mesh are sticking out, remove them with a knife, cut off the irregularities of the seal carefully with a spatula and prime everything.

Puttying

Puttying plasterboard on the ceiling and walls is done differently depending on the type of final finish. If you plan to stick wallpaper, it will be enough to base and finish a layer of putty. For paint finishes and Venetian plaster fiberglass is needed.

How to putty a ceiling

The ceiling can be puttied immediately with finishing putty in 1-2 layers. Work is carried out from any wall in good light.

Important ! If you plan to apply two layers, then they should be applied perpendicular to each other so that the last one is from the window along.

This is done as follows:

A small amount of mortar is placed on a wide spatula and applied to the surface with wide movements from the wall towards itself or from itself. After a sufficient area has been treated, the layer is finally leveled with a rule moistened with water. Masters do not use the rule, but it will come in handy for a novice finisher. So the entire surface is treated.

If dark spots of drywall do not appear from under the layer of dried putty, this can be limited. If the layer turned out to be uneven, you need to apply a second one. To do this, the irregularities are removed with a grinding mesh, the ceiling is primed and puttied again. The dried surface is carefully sanded, dust is removed and primer is applied to it for painting.

How to putty plasterboard under the wallpaper

To make it clear how to properly putty drywall, a video from experienced craftsmen will help you understand all the subtleties.

You will need narrow and wide spatulas. In order for the putty to be of high quality, consider a few subtleties:

• the spatula should not have bent corners, notches and other defects on the working surface;
• in the process of work, it is necessary to ensure that lumps of the dried solution and other solid particles do not fall into the solution and onto the spatula. They will leave streaks on the surface that are difficult to deal with;
• the remains of the solution should be removed from both sides of the surface of the working spatula. The dried solution is better to throw in the trash.

Operating procedure:

1. with a narrow spatula, evenly place a small amount of the mixture on the edge of the working surface of the wide spatula,
2. starting from the corner, apply it on the wall with wavy movements and carefully level it with the spatula in different directions. You can make semicircular movements, wavy, but not straight. It is better to start application from a clean area, moving to the treated part;
3. collect the remaining solution with a narrow spatula and again evenly distribute over the surface of the wide one, adding a fresh portion;
4. remove the defects of the dried layer with a sanding grid or sandpaper;
5. clean the surface of dust with a large brush or cloth;
6. apply primer;
7. on the primed surface in the same way, apply a layer of finishing putty, process after drying with a painting sanding grid with a number of 180-220 in circular motions;
8. clean the surface of dust and prime.

How to putty drywall for painting and decorative plaster

When finishing plasterboard walls and ceilings in new brick houses, as well as for painting or decorative Venetian plaster, the surface should be reinforced with thin fiberglass.

It will prevent cracks and other defects. A fiberglass cloth is glued onto a sanded and primed putty layer using PVA glue or for glass wallpaper as follows:

• glue is applied to the wall in an even layer,
• overlap (3-5 cm) fiberglass sheets, trying to ensure that their joints do not fall on the joints of drywall,
• the canvas is carefully leveled with hands and a spatula, removing air from under it,
• after gluing two canvases, the overlap is cut using a construction knife, the excess canvas is removed, the joints are aligned,
• the canvas on top is once again covered with glue and smoothed with a spatula.

A thin layer of finishing putty is applied to the dried glue, carefully leveled and sanded with a paint grid. After grinding and removing dust, the surface is covered with deep penetration primer 1-2 times.

Drywall walls prepared in this way will be even, smooth, ready to be covered with any finishing materials.

Sometime for holding overhaul in a private house or apartment, it took a lot of time: to accumulate the required amount, to select high-quality material, to hire professional workers. Today, everyone will cope with this task on their own. Practical drywall sheets are best for repairing and insulating rooms. Various interiors, expressiveness of rooms - your imagination is limitless. Partitions are easiest to make from GKL. But, unfortunately, after installation, drywall sheets will not create a pleasant atmosphere in your apartment - the existing chips, cracks, joints, peeking screw heads will spoil the overall picture. But there is a way out - this is putty. A well-chosen putty will solve all the problems that have arisen. The question arises - how to putty drywall ?

Nobody wants to work extra, spend precious time on extra work, so we often think - is it possible to do without finishing putty, because it is much easier to putty only rough? Yes, in some cases it is possible, but not in all.

Every time after working with drywall, we have to close up joints, hide the caps of self-tapping screws, and even out the unevenness that arose during installation. Also, long-term storage of GKL or improper transportation can also make their own adjustments.

The Knauf company, which is one of the flagships of our drywall production market, makes it possible to avoid puttying plasterboard sheets when used under wallpaper or tile, not counting only the corners, joints and the screw heads themselves.

They achieved this goal with the help of a special primer - a water-dispersion paint diluted with water. This primer on the surface of the processed sheet turns into a thin film layer, which is perfectly combined with any type of adhesive, and also protects the drywall from damage in the event of a break in the wallpaper.

Therefore, the question of how to putty drywall is irrelevant if you choose Knauf.

Using a primer for plasterboard

There are a number of significant advantages of a drywall primer. Firstly, with its help, adjacent materials adhere, which greatly reduces the occurrence of bubbles, peeling off the same wallpaper or tile. Secondly, it is evenly distributed over the entire surface, which helps to reduce the consumption of materials.

The primer is always used when finishing rooms, especially when working with drywall, because with its help we improve adhesion with putty, reduce glue consumption when pasting wallpaper. Additionally, a primer is also used after the starting putty, so that the finish layer holds better later, otherwise, you may encounter some problems, such as rolling or falling off.

It is best to choose primers depending on the type and stage of work. Putties are best used with deep penetration properties.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

When you have finished installing drywall sheets , you have to further finish them. If you plan to paint, puttying drywall should be done in at least two stages.

Drywall plastering technology is as follows:

• Be sure to apply a primer with deep penetration properties to drywall.
• We close up the holes left from the self-tapping screws.
• We putty the joints.
• We produce puttying of internal and outside corners.
• We apply a primer for GKL.
• We finish the surface with a starting putty.
• We grind the irregularities.
• We apply a primer on drywall.
• Puttying with finishing composition.
• We cover the walls with a primer for final work.

And now we still find out what putty to putty drywall with. Use both polymer and gypsum. Polymer putties produce a final finish, as they help to level the surface. Gypsum, on the other hand, are both starting and finishing, depending on the size of the grains.

Putty for drywall happens different types- ready for use, or dry, requiring dilution with water. Of course, it is better to use the first one, so you are guaranteed to provide yourself with lumps that can occur with incorrect dry dosages, but it is also much more expensive.

We prime the surface

Even before puttying, you need to prepare the surface of drywall in advance as a dry and clean material. We erase dust, various contaminants with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth. We prepare the primer and lubricate the walls with paint tools.

Basically, drywall is primed in one layer, but if necessary, it can be duplicated, as, for example, in the kitchen or bathroom. The following finishing steps can only be started after the applied layer has dried.

We close the seams and screw heads

To seal the seams, special compositions Fugenfuller, Knauf Uniflot, Knauf-Fugen, as well as their analogues are used. These types of putties dry very quickly, so it is recommended to dilute them in a small dose.

It is best to apply putty with a small spatula on the caps of self-tapping screws, in parallel with this, you can cover up the seams.

The edges of the GKL have their own characteristics: along the edge is thinned, and across it is straight. Of course, butt joints are somewhat harder to close, but more on that later.

Vertical joints

First, when sealing the longitudinal joints of drywall with a thinned edge, the space between them is filled with putty.

Then a sickle or reinforcing tape is glued onto the wet putty. This is necessary to prevent possible cracks. When using tape, pre-soaking for a few minutes is necessary. After that, glue the tape to the joint and putty again on top.

Cut seams

It is possible to putty plasterboard with a straight edge at the places of cutting and joining sheets only after processing them before. It is necessary to moisten the edges of the plasterboard with water, and after wetting the gypsum at an angle of 45 °, make small grooves. This work is best done before priming.

Lubricate the resulting joints with a primer, after drying, fill its seam with putty. It is best to use two spatulas 10 and 20 cm. First, smaller, distribute the mixture. The second, more, remove the excess. It is very important to fill the seam well, so that a small tubercle is obtained, protruding above the plane. If so, then everything is done correctly.

Lubricate the seam again using freshly prepared putty. The thickness of the new layer should be about half a millimeter. After that, we attach pre-soaked paper tape for reinforcement to the seam. Remove excess putty with a spatula.

It is necessary to ensure that there are no jams on the paper tape. Once again we collect the excess composition and distribute the remaining putty with a thin ball.

And if so: first tape, after putty?

Some are chasing saving time and money, simply gluing on GKL or self-adhesive mesh, or sickle, or paper tape. In this case, the junction remains unfilled. Such a connection will come out with skewed wallpaper, cracks. In this case, the savings are inappropriate. If apply the right technology, then when gluing wallpaper, plasterboard walls will not fail.

By the way, sickle and self-adhesive have significant drawbacks. Serpyanka cannot maintain the necessary rigidity, it is deformed, stretched. Fabric fibers interfere with the finish, protruding with small wrinkles. The self-adhesive mesh spreads out immediately, without strengthening anything.

Puttying external and internal corners

Puttying drywall corners is an important and crucial moment of finishing. They are trimmed using metal Shitrok and aluminum corners, paper tape and sickle. In finishing internal corners usually use reinforcing tape or sickle. The principle is the same as in the finishing of seams. The junction is puttied, paper or sickle is attached on top, the excess composition is removed. Then the corner is again finished with the thinnest layer.

Perforated aluminum corners are used to finish the outer corners. It is cut at an angle of 45° or slightly less. The 90° angle is not used. This is done so that the metal does not bulge during operation.

To fix the aluminum corner, putty is applied in small doses at an equal distance of about ten centimeters. The corner is pressed, its position is checked, the excess mixture is removed, bringing it into a flat plane with respect to the entire surface. After the putty dries, the edges are sanded, if necessary, puttied again.

The Sheetrock Corner is more convenient to use as it has a paper base. It is stiffer than paper tape and, unlike aluminum perforated corners, does not lead to sharp drops with the rest of the surface.

Grinding corners and joints

Sanding is a delicate and very dusty business, so care must be taken. Believe you need to curtain with a damp cloth - this will prevent dust from penetrating into other rooms. It is also good to cover the floor with wet rags or wood shavings.

If the previous work was carried out carefully and in compliance with the technology, then grinding will take a little time.

First, all protrusions are cut off. Then the actual grinding begins. A grinding mesh with a mesh size of 180-200 is attached to the bar. They are doing the work. For better grinding use oblique light. But if wallpaper is planned, then you can grind and not so conscientiously.

Need to use resources personal protection- goggles, respirator, gloves. This will save your health.

After grinding, everything is primed again, as the settled dust will interfere with further work.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard putty

To enjoy your home walls to the fullest, it is better to putty drywall. Your home will acquire a presentable and well-groomed appearance. Moreover, contemplation uneven walls can negatively affect the intra-family psychological climate. Puttying plasterboard walls is a responsible event. It happens that the owner himself is taken for repairs - an unprepared and impressionable person. He has a lot of questions in front of him. The first question is: how to putty drywall, what tools to use? You will need two spatulas - a large one, with a blade length of 40 cm or more, and a small narrow one. GKL putty is carried out in several stages. What putty to choose for drywall at the first stage of work? First, use the starting one. It is applied in a thick layer of 5 mm to hide all flaws and irregularities.

Question two : how to putty plasterboard? We answer - it's a simple matter. Using a small spatula, apply some putty along the edge of the large spatula. Then, pressing the spatula against the wall, we distribute the putty. Repeating in this way, we putty plasterboard walls. Then carefully leveling the surface. The better we do the alignment, the less sanding will be required. After the putty has dried on the drywall, we proceed to sanding. We clean the surface of dust and primer. We use a primer with deep penetration. Let it dry again and move on to further work.

How to putty drywall in the second stage? You need to apply a finishing coat. What putty, you decide. It happens on the basis of gypsum or polymers. Finishing putty is diluted thinner and more difficult to use. In order to qualitatively putty plasterboard walls and get the perfect surface, it is best to pre-prime the walls and then everything will be in order. at its best. The technology of work itself is similar to the first stage. The difference is that putty is applied in a thin layer and quickly leveled. After the plastered walls have dried, they are taken for grinding. This is done with fine sandpaper attached to the bar. For a perfectly smooth surface, side or bottom illumination is used, and preferably led lamp. It will help to identify the smallest irregularities.

Inexperienced builders do not know how to putty drywall, and do not even consider the need for such processing. In fact, the walls are covered with putty for various reasons.

The need for the procedure is determined by the following:

• Walls for painting must be prepared with a putty composition to achieve a perfectly flat surface.

• Any seams and unevenness affect the painting and finishing of the wall with other materials such as wallpaper. Surface defect and marriage spoils appearance.
• When sticking wallpaper on a flat wall, subsequent repairs are not accompanied by damage to the GKL. After removing the wallpaper, the base will remain intact and suitable for applying a new finish.

Before plastering the drywall, the joints are trimmed. They are applied with a specialized primer for universal use based on acrylic. Then the seams are filled, the edge zones and corners are processed.

The time it takes to complete this type of work depends on the type of surface. Walls processed for painting will take up to two days. Puttying drywall on the ceiling is much more difficult. After all, this procedure is accompanied by inconveniences - work at height, the need to constantly keep your head up, fatigue.

Suspended and stacked ceiling structures complicate the process and increase the number of areas that require special treatment. Seams, corner parts and curly-shaped areas that cause inconvenience in handling the tool are subjected to it.

The choice of GKL for various surfaces

First of all, the answer to the question of which drywall is better lies in the features of the room itself ( performance characteristics) and in the surface for which it is supposed to be used.

So, based on manufacturing technology, there is a classification of materials:

1. GKL - refers to a standard type of product, correlates with rooms whose humidity level does not exceed 60% (gray-brown sheets), suitable for wall decoration for painting.
2. GKLV - moisture resistant products for rooms with a humid environment (more than 60%), have a green color + blue marking.
3. GKLO - fire-resistant products based on refractory mineral fibers of red color, able to withstand direct exposure to flame for almost 20 minutes.
4. GKLVO - sheets with resistance to moisture and fire, marked in red and painted green.
5. GKLU - sheets with reinforced construction, have an increased strength index, provide excellent sound insulation of the room.

Edge types:

• Direct - it is designed for dry installation and does not need to be processed joints (it is used in the manufacture of multi-layer sheathing as an internal component);
• Rounded - processed by puttying, but does not require the use of reinforced products;
• Thinned - processing consists in applying tape for reinforcement and putty composition;
• Semicircular on the front side - the processing is the same as in the case of the rounded type;
• Semicircular and thinned on the front side - puttied and covered with reinforcing tape.

Based on this, it becomes clear which drywall is better. The thinned type of edge, as well as the semicircular and thinned on the front side, are the most beneficial, since the seams of such sheets have practically no protrusions that can affect the painting of the wall or finishing with other materials.

Choosing the Right Composition

Working with sides, corners and seams becomes more complicated with multi-level ceiling structure. In this case, a gypsum mixture is used, with which layers of 0.5 cm thick are applied without fear that it will crack.

Knauf products usually do not cause problems, and the rest of the mixtures require proper handling. They are characterized fast setting and are sensitive to contaminants that may remain inside the container or on the instrument.

How to properly putty drywall with Fugenfüller and Uniflot:

1. The kneading is done with a spatula. The recommended width of this tool is 10 cm.
2. Mixing is done carefully. Lumps must be avoided.
3. It is better to do the kneading in small portions.
4. After each serving, the mixer and measuring container should be washed well, otherwise the residue will provoke a quick setting.
5. A well-thought-out plan of action will save time. Preparation will also not be superfluous - a sickle sticker, installation of a stepladder in the right place.

What putty to putty plasterboard completely:

1. Shitrok - sold in buckets ready-made. The composition is consumed in the calculation of 500g / m2. At high density, dilution with water is acceptable.
2. Vetonite is a composition based on binding components of polymeric origin. It remains in working condition throughout the day and is consumed in the amount of 700g / m2.
3. Prospectors (finish composition) - at a consumption of 700 g / m2, it is diluted with water. Keeps working capacity about 40 minutes.
4. Prospectors (composition based on PVA) - putty is intended for inexperienced performers, does not need kneading and grinding.

Step by step description of the procedure

When decorating walls for painting, the procedure is carried out carefully. To work with corner parts, special corners covered with perforation are designed. They are made from plastic or aluminium.

Complex drywall structures and arches need the use of specialized corners - arched. Due to the plastic from which they are made, such corners are easy to bend and are able to fit evenly into intricate bends.

Drywall plastering technology for external corners:

• Checking the quality of materials - you can not use corners with deformations.
• Cutting corners into pieces with the required length.
• Applying a putty composition to the corner area. The material is applied in the form of a tubercle measuring two to three centimeters without leveling.
• Setting the corner and pressing. As a result of this action, the composition should exit through the perforation.

• Smoothing out excess putty with a spatula. The corner should be completely hidden under the composition.
• Drying time - 2-3 hours.
• Re-putty.

Puttying drywall - a necessary step construction works, which, despite its relative complexity and duration, is one of the main components of the correct decorative finishes premises. Plastering plasterboard walls seems to be a stage that can significantly delay repairs, but the need for it, which at first glance is absent, should still become mandatory. Joints, seams, fasteners, as well as mechanical damage to drywall sheets, can significantly worsen the appearance of the applied decorative coating or wallpaper.

Gypsum boards - one of the recent trends modern finishes premises, which has found wide application due to its relatively inexpensive cost and the ability to perform several important functions at once.

This is a great way to simultaneously level, insulate and soundproof any walls, even the most unsightly, in an old house or second home. Standard sizes sheet hl do not allow installation without any irregularities and joints, and on a relatively smooth surface there are traces of installation work, caps of fasteners, damage inadvertently received during their installation. Puttying drywall with your own hands is a more convenient, but also more time-consuming step in finishing the building surface.

If you do not carry it out immediately after the installation of the sheets, and complete the repair by painting or wallpapering directly on the draft layer, already at the preliminary completion it will become clear that the decision to dispense with the leveling layer was a tactical mistake. All existing defects will be visible under the decorative layer even with the naked eye, but even this is not the most important thing.

Under the influence of shrinkage of the building and temperature changes, drywall will begin to crack in places where fastening was carried out, and a new repair will be just around the corner. Professional installation of drywall sheets provides for additional reinforcement with fiberglass, which gives the drywall guaranteed strength, but even for such reinforcement, a leveling layer is necessary.

On the video: puttying a plasterboard wall.

It is believed, and quite justified, that the application of a primer and putty on plasterboard walls greatly enhances not only the subsequent visual effect of finishing materials selected by the developer, but also enhances the adhesiveness of the material to the applied coating, protects the walls from the destructive effects of temperature changes, moisture, mold and mildew. The technology of plasterboard puttying is such that it can be performed by a non-professional, but at the same time it is capable of ensuring excellent preservation of newly finished walls for a long time.

preliminary stage

The procedure for puttying drywall is conditionally divided into three stages:

• surface preparation and purchase of building materials (preliminary stage of preparation);
• applying a primer;
• directly puttying.

The stage of preparing drywall for puttying is equally important in both of its components. From acquisition quality materials for such works depends largely on their reliability and decorativeness of the final result. Gypsum mixtures are suitable in many cases, except for rooms with high humidity. There you should use more expensive putty mixtures with increased moisture resistance.

The primer composition must correspond to the selected top layer and must be present if the drywall was mounted with sickle.

In many respects, polymeric ready-made compounds are ideal, which can be immediately applied without preparing a mortar, but they are more expensive, and if the repair budget is limited, they can be used to putty drywall at the finishing stage.

Some brands give such an even layer that after their application it is not necessary to carry out grinding. In order to start work on leveling and priming the walls, you must:

• clean the walls of dust (especially if some construction work has already been done in the room);
• provide for yourself necessary tools and overalls that will protect against dirt and dust, inevitable during grinding.
• clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner, or a slightly damp soft sponge, after which the wall should dry.

A relatively inexpensive gypsum mixture (suitable for adhesion and to the main coating) is also perfect for a living space, and it is imperative to use a moisture-resistant one in the basement, not in the kitchen and in the household compartments (in the toilet and in the bathroom).

Primer and initial application

Any primer mixture for drywall is suitable, except for alkyd. The alkyd composition can cause the top layer of cardboard to peel off, and then there will be no question of any accuracy.

The primer composition is applied to the finished surfaces in an even layer, and preferably more than once, because a single application on drywall is completely absorbed into the material, which has increased absorbency due to the natural properties of gypsum.

Exist special formulations for drywall, developed by the manufacturer after the release of this building material, which are called primers for highly absorbent surfaces. The lower leveling layer requires thoroughness and a gradual transition from flat surfaces to problem areas - joints, fastenings, corners and cracks. If reinforcement is made, the primer should cover it almost completely.

After the primer has dried, you can proceed to a new stage of work, which begins with the preparation of hl putty from a dry composition, according to the manufacturer's instructions, or a finished composition from an open can.

Starting trim

Initial, or starting application - puttying drywall joints. This is a draft version of the alignment, which provides step-by-step instructions. In order for the fasteners of the drywall not to stick out, they are carefully twisted, and then covered with a layer of the required thickness. Following the fasteners, it is equally necessary to cover the drywall seams with the composition.

All this is done with a special tool - a spatula, the configuration and dimensions of which each master selects individually. On the video you can see how to professionally seal the seams on drywall:

On the video: sealing drywall seams.

In order to apply putty with high quality, you need to pick up a convenient spatula that fits well in your hand, then it will be quite easy to seal the seams. The finishing of seams and corners, which the rules provide for, can be done with a layer of any thickness, then the remaining layers will simply fit them.

Puttying chips, cracks, joints, fasteners and seams is the main goal of the preliminary stage, because these places are considered problematic in everyday use, and are capable of cracking, and they should be sealed with particular care.

Previously, there was a clear gradation: drywall products for the starting finish, and putty on drywall for the finishing layer, but now the production of the so-called universal mixture has been established, which can be applied with equal success to initial stage, and as a finishing putty. In order for the puttying of plasterboard slopes to look as neat as possible, a plaster corner is used. With it, the corner connection can be made professional

The final stage

The main finish of wall panels falls on the last applied layer and is called finishing putty. The purpose for which putty is applied in several layers, on last step must be achieved. It is no coincidence that any building manual contains strong recommendations about the careful choice of the composition with which the final finish is made, and about the extreme accuracy in the work of the construction process.

The routine of the final stage involves applying a layer throughout the drywall, and is done only after the primer has dried, followed by the leveling putty applied to problem areas. The standard finish is that the finishing putty of drywall is done in two screed layers, around the entire perimeter.

The first layer is conditionally called the base layer, and with the help of a special rubber spatula applied to level the wall and level the difference between the original rough finish and the entire surface of the wall. But if the finishing requires special care due to the material of external visualization chosen especially difficult, the putty is applied 3 or more times.

Experts recommend applying putty to drywall after it has completely dried. upper layer applied finish. You also need to grind the surface to complete smoothness, and then cover with another layer of primer, after removing the grinding dust with a vacuum cleaner.

It is generally accepted that after such a procedure, any paint applied to the surface will last especially long and retain its natural color. And all because the adhesiveness of the wall will not allow it to be absorbed and evenly distribute the coloring composition over the surface. For wallpapering, priming the finishing putty is possible, but not necessary.

It is naive to think that the applied decorative material will hide all the existing defects that even such a perfectly even material as drywall has. Under thin wallpaper, all existing flaws will stick out even more, and paint is not at all capable of masking irregularities.

Treacherous lighting will instantly make it possible to see everything that, due to laziness or ignorance, was not produced at the appropriate moment. Puttying drywall is, moreover, its additional protection against damage. It guarantees a long service life of new wall panels and the absence of tedious repairs over the next ten years.

Methods for sealing drywall joints (1 video)