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If you have not changed your bathroom towel warmer for a long time, it appearance probably already damaged, the old paint turns yellow and falls off. Modern models heated towel rails have a wide choice of design, so it will not be difficult for you to choose a new one: chrome, enameled, snake or letter "P". In addition to decorative functions, it has a practical character: it replaces the radiator in the bathroom, maintaining a comfortable temperature, and allows you to dry towels and clothes.

Replacing a heated towel rail in the bathroom through the housing office will cost a pretty penny, so we will tell you how you can do it yourself. And if you still decide to call a plumber, this knowledge will not be superfluous to control the work.

The first thing to learn is that the connection of the heated towel rail should not be connected to the central heating (as is done in some houses), but to hot pipe water supply. Only in this way it will be warm all year round.

Briefly, the process of connecting a heated towel rail is as follows. First you need to contact the housing office or the management company with an application to turn off the water. You will have to pay for disconnecting the riser, the price depends on the region and the time of disconnection.

After turning off the riser, the old device is removed and a jumper is installed. At the junction of pipes and products put Ball Valves. You can then turn on the riser and complete the installation.

So that the pipes are not visible, the connection to it is “hidden” with the help of a drywall box or. It is better to hide the eyeliner in a gate punched in the wall. True, this option would be more appropriate when overhaul bathroom. Although often the replacement of the coil is done just during this repair. If the dimensions of the bathroom allow you to place the box, it is better to make it as a nightstand with shelves.

In addition to the product itself, for installation you will need:

• brackets for wall mounting;
• polypropylene pipes;
• apparatus for welding;
• pipe cutter or special wire cutters;
• necessary connecting elements and fittings;
• 2 ball valves.

Independent installation of a heated towel rail consists of the following steps:

• dismantling of the old coil;
• installation of bypass and taps;
• welding of polypropylene pipes;
• fixing and connecting a new coil.

Removing the coil

At this stage, you need to contact the management company with an application to block the riser with hot water. At the appointed time, a plumber will come and turn off the water. When it is not in the riser, the old coil can be removed. In practice, it is better to negotiate with the plumber personally, after showing him the scope of work. While the management company agrees on all the nuances, quite a lot of time can pass. An experienced plumber will cut the old coil and install a new one in an hour and a half.

Pipe welding

For water supply, steel, copper or polypropylene pipes are usually used. Unlike other types, it is quite possible to weld polypropylene with your own hands.

• • Steel pipes will require welding machine, they weigh a lot and are prone to corrosion.
  • Copper are installed by soldering. They don't rust but are expensive.
  • Polypropylene pipes do not rust, are inexpensive, and relatively light. In our case, it is imperative to use pipes with reinforcement, which will affect their strength when working with hot water under pressure. To weld pipes, you need a special soldering iron; you can buy it, rent it or make it yourself from an old iron. We wrote more about this in an article about.

Installation of bypass and taps

Bypass on coil

Bypass - a special jumper that will allow you to shut off the water supply to the coil without disturbing its circulation in the riser. Simply put, this is an additional bypass pipe that should be up to the taps. It is not necessary to install it, but it significantly reduces the risks: this way you can quickly turn off the water if a leak appears.

The jumper is a regular pipe, in our case polypropylene. For its installation, ball valves are attached to the ends of the coil.

In this case, the diameter of the jumper must be no less than the diameter of the supply pipe. No valves or taps are installed on the jumper itself. Some put them to regulate the heat in the bathroom, but this can interfere with the circulation of water in other apartments. Even in some installation instructions (for example, from ARGO), the installation of a tap in a jumper is prescribed, but then problems may arise with the work of the management company.

Many craftsmen take ordinary pipe wrenches to install polypropylene fittings. However, they cannot be used for polypropylene, since sharp serifs can damage the material of the fittings. To prevent this from happening, choose special strap keys.

Installing a new heated towel rail

You can find the technical requirements for installing a heated towel rail in SP 30.13330.2012 (this is an updated SNiP 2-04-01-85).

Popular connection schemes

In order not to expose the wall and pipe to loads due to temperature deformations, the installation of a water heated towel rail takes place on hanging brackets, and not on a rigid mount. The mount for the heated towel rail must be at the same level so that the coil is fixed evenly, otherwise it may be torn off by pressure.

The coil is at a distance of 35 mm from the wall if its diameter is less than 23 mm; and with an offset of 50 mm if the diameter is greater than 23 mm. It is also not recommended to mount it further than 2 m from the riser.

After completion of work, it is important to check all connections for leaks. They must be absolutely dry.

Tow is also used to seal the threads of steel or copper pipes. But for polypropylene it is forbidden to take it: for this there is a fum tape, a thread "tangit unilok". There are also special adhesive sealants, but their use will not allow you to disassemble the connection anymore.

The video shows how to install a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands:

Now, if necessary, you can solve the problem of how to connect a heated towel rail, even without calling the wizard. However, you still have to spend money to turn off the risers, so plumbers often do this work.

The question of how to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom is important from the standpoint of efficiency. Although this simple device is available in every home, in some cases it needs improvement. For example, if, when planning a bathroom, this pipe bend was placed in a conspicuous place and it spoils the interior of the room. Periodically, a blockage occurs in the device itself, and the drying process is not as efficient as before.

Therefore, it is worth considering how the heated towel rail works, what varieties of it can be chosen for the bathroom and what to consider during the installation process.

Types of heated towel rails

Often houses have a place for drying towels or some types of clothes, where constant heating provides fast elimination moisture from everything on it. It is convenient in large families with small children, where clean things are required very often. And in the cold season, it serves as an additional source of heat. Therefore it effective work very important.

According to the type of energy used, there are several types of heated towel rails. Less common in homes can be found electrical appliance for this feature. It is efficient to use and runs on a regular electrical outlet. Installation electric heated towel rail do-it-yourself does not differ much from the installation of a lamp or other electrical appliance. But if you put such a device in the bathroom, you need to take into account all the measures fire safety. For example, make it so that water does not get on it.

Most often, heated towel rails are used in homes connected to a heating pipe. Their principle of operation is simple: hot water rises through heating pipes and batteries in high-rise building providing warmth to everyone equally. And in the opposite direction, this water descends through a pipe with many bends that form heated towel rails in each apartment in the riser. This ensures rational use of heat.

Since the heating system is designed for more than one family, any change in it will affect other users. Therefore, the correct reinstallation of the heated towel rail should be not only effective in a particular apartment, but also safe for the rest.

There are towel warmers of the so-called combined type combining water and electric heating. If necessary, you can connect any of them. This option is convenient, since the heated towel rail will work effectively even when the heating is turned off.

Installation principles

When deciding how to install a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands, it is worth considering a few important points:

There are two main ways to install a heated towel rail powered by a hot water pipe. The structure can be connected in a straight or corner connection. Each of these methods has its own characteristics and conditions that contribute to their effective operation.

Direct connection installation

This method is used when there is a severe blockage of the heated towel rail pipe and a pipe fragment needs to be replaced without moving the device to another location. This procedure does not require a large number time or special professional skills.


Before you start dismantling the old pipe, you need to take care of shutting down and draining hot water from the system. Otherwise, there is a high chance of getting burned. After that, an unnecessary piece is cut off and a new one is fixed in its place. Depending on the conditions, it is either simply welded or fixed with threaded pipes.

If the connection is direct in the installation of the device, it is worth considering 2 main points:

In this case, it is allowed to install taps that will allow you to disconnect the device from the network if not needed or dismantle it completely. If desired, a thermostatic regulator can be installed in the system, which will maintain a certain temperature in the device.

To make the new system look good in the interior of the bathroom, you can use a decorative box to hide the riser pipe.

Installation with corner connection

This method is used by those who want to not only update the pipe of this device, but also change its location. According to the principle of installation, the angular connection is not much different from the direct one. But the installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom should be carried out taking into account several important points:

An alternative could be diagonal connection heated towel rail. But it does not bring much efficiency. Heat transfer with this method of installation can increase by 5-7%.

Offset bypass heated towel rail circuits are used as an alternative to riser replacement. However, it is worth remembering that this approach is applicable when the water flow is directed downward. If the pipe arrangement involves an upward movement of flow, such a do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom will be ineffective. Also, with this choice, you should not use narrowed pipes.

Advantages and features of the bottom connection

Similar unit installation schemes are popular in last years. Because by fixing the heated towel rail from below, you can hide the extra pipes with various accessories or interior items. In stores you can find a large assortment of models that will be installed in this way. But with external attractiveness, the scheme bottom connection less effective than a straight or side connection. And for it to work, it is worth considering a number of points:

In view of the existing conditions, it is worth paying attention to the popular heated towel rail connection schemes. Some of them may be known to be non-working due to non-compliance with the rules. Therefore, if the master offers you options with bends in the supply, narrowed or displaced bypass, be careful. So you will avoid disappointment when, with a working hot water system, the heated towel rail remains cold.

To summarize: install or can, not the name of the special skills. The easiest option to connect may be a device powered by electrical energy.


If you choose a device powered by a heating system or hot water supply, consider some details. First, find out how often heating or hot water is turned off in your area. The time when the heated towel rail will be useless will depend on this. This does not apply to persons living in houses where water is heated by a column or boiler.

When choosing the type of connection, set the direction of water flow. The options used will depend on this. Be sure to use models with a bypass if you want to block the device with taps when not needed.

Since there are several main options for connecting a heated towel rail to a riser: straight, side, diagonal or bottom, the choice should be made based on the initial position of the device and its height. The easiest to implement is a direct connection.

Several conditions should be considered when choosing a side or bottom method, especially if an offset bypass or constricted pipes are used. Choosing one of latest ways, analyze and refuse options that will be obviously non-working. And then your heated towel rail will be a beautiful and functional piece of furniture.

Video instruction

If your heated towel rail is already more than fifteen years old, then surely its appearance causes sheer despondency. Well, after getting acquainted with its more modern counterparts, a great desire immediately arises to install this snake-like chrome miracle in your own bathroom.

In order to make this wish come true, there are two options:

• Invite professionals to replace the heated towel rail.
• Install the heated towel rail yourself.

Whichever option you choose, read this material to the end. If employees will carry out the replacement procedure, you can easily control all their activities. If you install the coil yourself, you will receive high-quality instructions on the topic “Installing a heated towel rail” and easily carry out such a procedure.

The towel warmer replacement strategy is as follows:

• The stand is disconnected from the water.
• Eliminate the old product.
• Install a special jumper.
• Ball valves are installed at all junctions with the device.
• Then you can turn on the riser and perform all further work.

It is worth noting that you will have to pay your management company to turn off the riser.

Main varieties

Depending on the principle of operation, there are such types of dryers:

• Working on hot water. They can be connected to a hot water or heating system. Such dryers will be useful in that they can significantly reduce your utility bills.
• Powered by electricity. Such instances are completely independent of the supply of water and heating. Durable enough (since there is no corrosion). Easily installed in any convenient location. But the main thing is that there is a power source nearby.
• Combined. It is a combination of the previous types. During the heating season, hot water circulates through the device, and the rest of the time, a heating element can be turned on to heat the water.

The appearance of modern water devices is quite diverse. Consider their types.

The first type: M, U, Ф figurative - the most common forms.

The second type: "snakes", "ladders" and other varieties original design devices. To include them in the current system, great importance also has the location of the installation pipes:

• Lateral - as a rule, it is used for heated towel rails of the first type.
• Top or bottom - more common among coils of the second type.

The choice of the optimal option is always determined by the type of connection scheme, the availability of the necessary free space in the bathroom, as well as the location of the piping system.

Norms and rules of installation

All requirements for connecting the dryer to the hot water supply system can be found in SNiP 2-04-01-85.

Installing a heated towel rail in accordance with all the rules consists in connecting the outputs and inputs of the radiator circuit with the fittings of the heating riser, or the water main through plastic pipes.

Pipes, couplings, bends are assembled into one piece by means of a special soldering iron.

To connect the purchased heated towel rail, you can also use copper and metal-plastic pipes, but here you need to take into account a number of features. In modern half-inch pipes made of metal-plastic, the cross-sectional diameter is smaller than in plastic ones. In addition, they do not withstand strong pressure drops well. Copper pipes, despite their durability, will cost a very large amount, and their welding requires special skills and special precautions.

If you want the heated towel rail to perform its functions normally, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the supply pipe in the direction of the hot water flow. For the entire length of the eyeliner, its length is from 5 to 10 mm. The water flow must pass from the top point of the heated towel rail circuit to the bottom. For this purpose, the upper radiator bell is simply connected to the hot water riser.

Be sure to make a gap between the surface of the walls and the pipes of the circuit. It is 35 mm for pipes with a cross section of less than 23 mm, and 50 mm for pipes with a cross section of more than 23 mm. All distances are easily adjusted with a pin, which is screwed into the bracket, however, there are also completely fixed mounts where this distance cannot be changed. The structure that supports the strapping should not be fixed too rigidly in order to compensate for all the thermal expansion of the pipes and at the same time not to load the wall sections that carry them.

Required Materials

Before installation, it is important to check the complete set of the device, familiarize yourself with the design, the connection diagram of the new dryer, and also study the instructions. It is best to prepare the necessary materials and tools in advance.

• directly purchased heated towel rail;
• brackets;
• PVC pipes of the required diameter (26 and 32 mm);
• screwdriver;
• impeller;
• fasteners;
• knife for cutting PVC pipes;
• building level and hammer;
• two wrenches;
• two or three ball valves;
• tow or some other sealant;
• two union solder nuts;
• soldering iron for PVC pipes;
• PVC elbows;
• one PVC elbow with internal thread;
• two tees (in case you install a jumper);
• one sleeve with internal thread.

Dismantling the old towel warmer

First of all, contact the organization serving your water supply and heating networks so that they turn off the hot water supply at the time of your dismantling work. And only after that start removing the old dryer.

In addition, when removing the old coil, it is necessary to pay attention to the wear of the riser to which it was attached. If its condition already leaves much to be desired, then it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It will also be useful to ask the opinions of neighbors from above, below. Suddenly they will support the idea to change the riser completely. Even when you replace only at home, it is necessary to do this in such a way that the ancient pipes do not remain in the ceilings, and the junctions with the new sections are accessible and visible. Having outlined the required segments, cut off part of the riser with a grinder along with a dryer.

On the cut ends of the pipes, it is still necessary to cut the thread. For this, a special threading machine is useful. In specialized markets, they sell and rent this tool. From the ends of the cut pipe, chamfer with an impeller, install the lerk of the required caliber in the tool socket and, having fixed it well at the end of the pipe, simply cut the thread.

Currently, copper, steel and polypropylene pipes are most commonly used for plumbing. The latter are distinguished by their low price, ease of installation, and resistance to corrosion.

In addition, the process of soldering propylene pipes together is simple and easy to learn. For independent work you will need the following tools:

• soldering iron for pipes;
• a set of different nozzles of the required caliber;
• wire cutters or pipe cutter;
• beveler;
• shaver (for removing aluminum from pipes).

It is better to buy a soldering iron in a specialized store. So you will be sure of the quality. Included with the soldering iron are always nozzles of various sizes, as well as a stand for secure fixation.

Proper welding can be done with an exceptionally high-quality device, so saving on it is not recommended.

How to weld pipes step by step

First, draw up a diagram for yourself with the obligatory consideration of the size of the plots, the location of the bends, tees and taps. It will be very convenient to be guided by it to save materials and assembly accuracy. In addition, the scheme will reduce the number of adhesions on weight.

Use a pipe cutter or nippers to cut sections to the required length, and then chamfer the ends with a beveler. According to the standard, the chamfer has a length of 2-3 mm and a slope of 15 degrees. Do not forget to clean all the cut edges of the pipes from crumbs, burrs for more reliable welding.

For a reliable connection of the couplings with the ends of the pipes, it is necessary to heat the soldering iron to 260 degrees, and then place all the elements in the sockets of the nozzles. The coupling is put on the pin on one side. The pipe is inserted into the sleeve from the other side. Total time heating is determined by the diameter of the element, as well as the thickness of its walls. Time is normalized by international standards. It can be found in special tables. You can also find out the readiness for soldering on your own. It is necessary to scroll the element on the heating surface: with the necessary heating, the coupling or pipe will turn very smoothly and be easily removed from the nozzle.

The process of soldering plastic pipes

The heated pipe with the coupling should be connected immediately after removal from the soldering iron. At the same time, try to set them exactly relative to each other. Press as far as it will go, but do not press hard. You have about 5 seconds after connection to adjust the position of the mating elements. Then they are already firmly grasped.

Installation of taps and bypass

The bypass jumper is not a mandatory component, but can help out in case you need to repair work on the installed dryer. Replacing sealing gaskets at the points where the dryer is connected to the riser will necessarily require shutting off the water supply in it. This means filing a special application with the FSW, as well as additional cash costs. By including shut-off valves and a jumper in the connection diagram in advance, you can easily cut off the coil circuit from the main line in order to save money or in case of repair.

When installing a jumper, you can use steel, copper, or so-called polypropylene pipes.

Working with metal involves laborious welding, so it would be much more rational to make a bypass from modern plastic pipes.

To cut off, regulate the flow in the required areas, we need three ball valves. By installing one on the jumper, and two more on the supply, water return fittings, you can shut off the hot water supply to the coil and cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the valve on the jumper, it is possible to increase or decrease the water supply in the circuit, and thus adjust the overall heating temperature.

Installation of a new heated towel rail

How to install a heated towel rail: stages

Installation and connection works are carried out in several stages:

• Cutting off the water supply.
• Removing the old coil. If it is threaded to the riser, it must be unscrewed with adjustable wrenches. If the dryer is welded to the riser, we simply cut it off along with the pipe using a turbine.
• Installation of ball valves, lintels.
• Screwing the Mayevsky tap into the bypass for comfortable deaeration of the system.
• Marking on the wall with a pencil places for future fastenings. Exhibition of horizontal marks using a level indicator.
• Drilling holes according to special marks and driving dowels into them.

How to install a new heated towel rail yourself

Having set the heated towel rail so that the holes match, we fasten it with a regular screwdriver. At the same time, do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes. We adjust it if there is a bracket with a stud.

• For a reliable connection with the supply fittings, as well as the return of water, we use fittings. They are angled or straight. It is important to seal the threads with tow or other winding. You can use fum for a more reliable sealing of tapered threads. When installing the device, set a slight slope of the liner (from 5 to 10 mm). Tighten all union nuts, placing a cloth under the wrench in advance so that there are no scratches. Insert special sealing gaskets into the end face of the nut. It is necessary to tighten smoothly and without much effort, if there are difficulties when turning the key - unwind the connection, set the connected elements evenly. Having screwed the nut to the end, squeeze it a little, but do not overdo it so as not to strip the thread.
• After completing the assembly, you can supply water to the heated towel rail. Open the water supply slowly. Slightly open the valve on the jumper in order to release air from the pipes. When water starts to drip, you can close it. Take a good look, iron everything with your hand threaded connections and welded seams for leak detection.

How to connect an electric heated towel rail

Electric towel warmer - household heating device, which does not require a special tie-in to the water supply. The installation of such equipment is much simpler, but it is imperative to ensure complete isolation of electricity, since current leakage in the bathroom can pose a great threat to human life. Grounding must be made, and also connected for reliable protection from any voltage fluctuations.

As a rule, the socket is placed outside the bathroom, but a device without a thermostat may well be connected to a socket in the bathroom. If necessary, it can be unplugged at any time in order to reduce electricity consumption. The socket must be with a cover for insulation and a special waterproof housing, and all the wires are hidden in a strobe.

Installing the socket on a wall that faces the street is prohibited, as this may cause short circuits due to the formation of condensate.

After reading this material, installing a heated towel rail will definitely not be scary for you!

With the beginning of the widespread development of cities with serial high-rise buildings in the second half of the last century, few people at that time called towel warmers that appeared in their bathrooms.

But the purpose of their housewives immediately figured out and began to use it to the fullest: for drying not only towels, but also any other linen, especially in winter time. It will be useful for any owner to learn all about correct installation and replacing the water heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands for your hostess.

With acceptance SNiPa 2.04.01-85, in which the term "towel warmer" appeared, the device soon came into general use.

Unaesthetic and also useless with the end heating season iron structures, painted with "silver" or nitro paint, nevertheless, the householders liked it, and soon they began to get and install by hook or by crook Nickel-plated, graceful, elegant and practical euroaggregates.

This topic has not lost its relevance even now: there are still many houses in the housing stock old building where apartment owners starting repairs or replacements plumbing equipment, turn their attention to such useful and necessary devices in equipping the bathroom, which quite capable home master for self-installation.

Device selection

All designs of these units are divided into three types:

• Water.
• Electrical.
• Combined.

Replacing an old device with a new one, it is most logical to use the water type. Electrical apparatus applied where there is no centralized system heating, no hot water supply, or as a backup for the time of their shutdown.

If there is a heating network or hot water supply in the house, it is more reasonable, instead of reserve ones, to use combined structures that do not take up additional space, and their installation differs little from the installation of water appliances.

The external design of water devices is quite diverse:

• 1st type: M‑, U‑, F‑shaped - traditional forms.
• 2nd type: "ladders", "snakes" and other types of original design of modern devices.

To include them in the current system is also important location of the installation pipes:

• Lateral - usually used for devices of the 1st type;
• Lower or upper - more common among type 2 devices.

Choosing the Right Option due to the availability of free space in the bathroom, the location of the piping system and the type of connection scheme. more details on which water heated towel rail is better to choose - in this.

What is required for installation?

Before starting any work it will be quite good sketch a wiring diagram or, in extreme cases, a small freehand sketch placement of the unit, choosing the most suitable option for connecting the device to the pipeline network.

The simplest diagrams for the correct connection of a heated towel rail with your own hands for universal ladder devices:

Tools

To replace or install a water heated towel rail, you will need a set of plumbing tools, the composition of which depends on the type water pipes in the apartment. Considering that copper, polypropylene and other modern types of pipelines are still infrequent, we will describe tools for standard steel pipes ¾’:

• Keys: gas No. 2 or No. 3; adjustable - "crocodile"; adjustable wrench.
• pipe cutter or a hacksaw for metal.
• Thread-cutting dies ¾' with lever collar.
• Drill electric with a perforator, concrete drills.
• Angle grinder with a cutting disc for metal - "Bulgarian".
• Fixing tool: hammer, screwdrivers, pliers.
• Marking tool: tape measure, level, pencil.

materials

In addition to a set of tools for work, you also need installation and consumables:

• Turns, bends, couplings, spurs and possibly other types of fittings.
• Shut-off valves, ball valves are best.
• Linen tow plumbing, or mounting FUM‑tape.
• Installation and fasteners: brackets, screws, dowels, anchor bolts etc.

Having prepared everything you need, you can get to work.

All work on the heating pipeline is best done in the summer, when the system is turned off, there is no pressure in it and you can easily drain the water from the riser. But in this case, having completed the work, it will be impossible to test its quality: you will have to wait for the start of the heating season.

Connection types

First, you need to decide what which system to include the device in:

• Connecting the heated towel rail to the heating system. The traditional way and the only one where there are no hot water networks. Its disadvantage is that heating system works only in winter season. Dignity - in the heating pipeline, water circulation is carried out forcibly and the heated towel rail will be hot during the entire heating season, performing the function of an additional battery.
• Connecting a water heated towel rail to a hot water supply system. Such systems are also subject to outages, but for more short term. In addition, the disadvantage of this method is that the unit will heat up only during the consumption of hot water, cooling down at night, even with direct connection to the riser. In small-apartment houses or private houses, this problem is even more acute.

Scheme of installation and connection of a heated towel rail to a hot water riser bathroom looks like this:

As already noted, the optimal The solution to many problems is the use of combined devices operating from the mains in the absence of hot water in the system.

After choosing a pipe network for our device, the next question is how to include it in it:

• Direct connection to the riser. If the bathroom has already been equipped with a heated towel rail, then it is connected to the heating pipe in this way. Replacing it with a new one, you can, without further ado, use the same type of connection. You can also embed the new device directly into the hot water riser.
• Inclusion in the apartment pipeline. The advantage of this method is that during the work it is not necessary to block the entire riser, but it is more suitable for the heating system. The above problem with the hot water pipeline will be further aggravated: the appliance will only heat up when washing dishes, taking a shower or bath.

With bypass jumper

Towel dryers in old houses, as already mentioned, were a direct part of the heating pipe. This connection creates problems. in the event of an accident or repair and does not make it possible to turn off the device when it is not needed.

Therefore, the most reasonable when installing a new device will be a tie-in parallel to it in the riser of the jumper-bypass and shut-off valves to which it is attached. This useful addition to the pipeline must be provided for in the connection diagram.

Dismantling the old device

You should start by disassembling the old heated towel rail. For this:

1. Having agreed with the neighbors at the entrance and the management company, we block the heating riser and drain the water from it.
2. If a old design was welded to the pipes of the riser, we cut it off with a grinder. In the case of a detachable connection, unscrew the fastening couplings.
3. In rare cases, when the installation dimensions of the new device coincide with the old ones, we can assume that we are very lucky. Most often this is not the case you have to cut pipes even with a collapsible connection.
4. The cutout in the riser must be greater in height than the distance between the inlet pipes of the new heated towel rail by the length of the spurs and couplings required for inserting the bypass.
5. When cutting off, we take into account not only the installation dimensions of the new device, but also the possibility of cutting threads on pipes.
6. We remove the old device from the wall by cutting off its brackets with a grinder or a hacksaw.

Installation and connection: step by step instructions

Before installation it is useful to lay out on the floor both the device itself and all the fittings for him to once again clarify all the dimensions. To do this, you can even dry-assemble all the connections. Nobody canceled the proverb about measuring seven times!

1. We mark the installation dimensions of the new heated towel rail on the wall.
2. Having chosen the location of the future unit on the wall, it is necessary to carefully examine it for the passage of internal communications, both pipeline and electrical. Can help with this special devices- metal wire detectors.
3. We drill holes, insert dowels and hang the device on the wall, fixing it with screws or bolts.
4. We cut the threads on the cut ends of the pipeline.
5. We prepare the jumper-bypass by carefully marking and installing tees-outlets for the heated towel rail and a shut-off valve on it.
6. During operation, all connections seal with sanitary tow or teflon tape.
7. We install it in the cutout of the riser, using spurs, straight couplings and lock nuts, so that the tee outlets are exactly opposite the inputs of our device.
8. Spurs of different lengths are used to fit installation dimensions of pipeline sections and simplification of their connections. They have cut threads at the ends: short on one side and long on the other.
   

   A lock nut and a coupling are screwed onto the long one. A tee, angle or valve is screwed onto the pipe on one side. They are screwed with a short thread, which is then connected to the other side of the pipe by a coupling with a long threaded end and fixed with a lock nut.

9. We fasten shut-off ball valves to the taps, and connect the inputs of our unit with them.
10. We open the ball valves to the heated towel rail, and close the valve on the bypass.
11. Opening the general valve of the riser. If there is water pressure in the system, carefully check the connections made for tightness.

All! Our new heated towel rail is ready to go. In this video you can see the process of dismantling and installing a new heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands:

Works on pipeline system apartment building should be carried out, having previously coordinated them with the management company, only with sufficient experience or under the guidance of a qualified craftsman.

Modern heated towel rails can be quite complex in design, such as, for example, double-circuit. Before installing them with your own hands, you should study all specifications and installation rules.

It should also be remembered that some units must be selected according to galvanic compatibility with metal pipelines the materials from which they are made.

Towel warmers are becoming more and more popular, because it is important to maintain an elevated temperature in the bathroom. Heating in this room is less advisable. Much nicer to install a heated towel rail.

In order for everything to be done neatly and function without problems, a number of subtleties should be taken into account. Choose the most suitable circuit, remove the old device, and also correctly select and attach a new device model.

Before choosing a particular model, it is important to know the varieties and features of the functioning of various heated towel rails.

In the manufacture of manufacturers use two main materials: stainless steel and brass. To the naked eye, their differences are imperceptible. Stainless steel, of course, wins the choice. Its advantage is to withstand high water pressure in high-rise buildings.

If you decide to choose stainless steel, you should take care of the seamless design of the pipe. It is also important to choose a model with thickened walls (more than 3 mm).

Now exists huge selection heated towel rails in size, shape, color and other features.

Generally, there are three main types of devices:

• electrical,
• water,
• combined.

Aquatic are divided into their subspecies:

• stainless steel,
• from non-ferrous metals,
• from black steel.

Water-type heated towel rails (we will talk about them below) work in conjunction with central heating. Therefore, one of the main points is the quality of the water itself. Most of all, non-ferrous metal products are subjected to destruction from the unfavorable composition of the liquid.

Electrical devices are easier to use and easy to set up. But their installation due to the presence of humidity is more complicated and must be carried out in accordance with all requirements and standards.

Most best option- combined appliances. They last longer and allow you to regularly change the source of heating (electricity or water). In winter, it is better to use water, and the rest - electricity.

Required Tools

Before installation, make sure you have all the tools. The presence of certain devices depends on the type of pipes. Given the standard steel options, the following inventory is needed:

• gas (number 2), attachment and wrench;
• hacksaw for metal;
• thread-cutting dies;
• electric drill with a perforator, concrete drills;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• hammer, pliers and screwdriver;
• level, tape measure and pencil.

In addition, you will need a number of consumables:

• drives, bends, couplings, etc.;
• shut-off valves;
• linen tow;
• screws, dowels, bolts and brackets.

Dismantling the old towel warmer

When it's time to upgrade your device, it's important to properly dispose of the old one. Most often these are Soviet coils. When replacing such a model, it is important to remove the whole riser with it, since the removal of only part of the pipe does not have a very favorable effect later.

It is important to coordinate this matter with neighbors and temporarily suspend water supply. The riser itself is cut out with a grinder. Before installing new pipes, threads should be cut, and then connected.

Among the already installed models there are quite modern ones. If the previous installation was done correctly, it will not be difficult to replace the heated towel rail. In this case, the new device must be manufactured by analogy with the previous one and have the same mounting dimensions.

Wiring diagram options

One of the most simple circuits- when the device is part of a hot water riser. The flow and its direction do not affect the functioning of the heated towel rail. This system is simple, reliable and makes it easy to replace the old instrument. During installation, the riser is often hidden in a decorative box.

It is important to prevent a sharp narrowing of the fitting on the common riser, as well as the installation of taps in front of the device. The second leads to a stop of the entire riser.

With such a scheme, it is more expedient to use a jumper (bypass), which combines the riser and the heated towel rail. Installing a locking element on the bypass is also unacceptable.


You can consider the following schemes:

• Diagonal or lateral connection . This is the most commonly used and reliable option. The system is good for a ladder-type device with water supply from the top down. No bypass is required and there is no dependence on water pressure at all. When installing the device according to this scheme, it is important to observe some conditions:
  • the lower point of contact with the riser should be located below the pipe, which is connected to the heated towel rail;
  • the system should not contain bends - this spoils the circulation of water;
  • the main thing is that the diameter of the pipes is not less than DN 20:25 (polypropylene) and 0.75 inches (steel);
  • permissible distance from the PPR material riser - 4.5 meters;
  • for successful operation, it is necessary to impose thermal insulation material on the pipes.

  Diagonal connection in terms of efficiency is no different from lateral. Only the consumption of pipes is more, and the installation process is the most labor-intensive.

• Lateral connection with offset bypass. The scheme is rational while maintaining the old branch parts of the riser with a used loop-shaped model of a heated towel rail. It is not necessary to change the stand. It is enough just to mount the bypass. The direction of the water should also go from above.
• Bottom connection. Many devices are designed specifically for this mount. The system allows you to hide the pipes with the help of accessories. This method is less efficient than the previous ones.

With models of a complicated shape, it is important to take into account the features of their design. Determine in which direction the water will flow better, and only then install.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation instructions

After removing the old heated towel rail, the work process consists of several stages. First comes the preparatory work:

1. Installation of taps and bypass.
2. Preliminary marking of future wall mounts (this will require a level).
3. Drilling holes and fixing dowels.

Using fittings, it is necessary to connect the device to the water supply fittings. It is important to wrap the thread with tow. We must not forget about the minimum slope of the eyeliner (about 5-7 mm). It is better to tighten the nuts with a soft cloth, which must be placed under the wrench. It is important to use a sealant at the end of the nut. The tightening process itself is best done in smooth movements. If you have any difficulties - unwind everything again and correct the elements.

When the assembly is completed, water can be supplied. In order to avoid trouble, it is better to do it smoothly.

You can watch the whole process in more detail in the following video:

New models are more complex and incomprehensible. Before proceeding with their installation, it is necessary to study all the instructions that come with them, as well as installation recommendations. You should also keep in mind the compatibility of materials throughout the system.