Correct fastening of metal tiles to the sheathing. Fastening metal tiles to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. Important points when preparing and fastening metal tile sheets

The service life of any roof directly depends not only on the quality of the chosen coating, but on the correctness of its installation. In this article we will talk about how to attach metal tiles correctly and what should not be done when laying them.

What screws should be used and where to screw them in?

This popular covering is fastened with special roofing screws.

They are galvanized screws that have a hex-shaped head, painted in different colors to match the color of the coating, a sealing washer and a drill bit on the tip.

It is very important to choose high-quality screws, since their service life should be the same as that of a metal roof. It often happens that after purchasing metal tiles that have an improved polymer coating and a service life of about 50 years, inexperienced amateur builders purchase fasteners on the market.

Such roofing screws of an unknown manufacturer may have ordinary rubber instead of ethylene-propylene rubber (EPOM material) on the sealing washer.

With prolonged exposure to seasonal temperature changes, as well as ultraviolet radiation, low-quality rubber dries out and becomes brittle after 3/4 of a year.

Now about what the technology for fastening metal tiles should be.

Note!

The sheets are correctly fixed with a screw at the bottom of the wave. At this point the metal is tightly adjacent to the sheathing.

Screw the screws 2 centimeters below the step, which is a very convenient guide.

The screw should go 2 centimeters into central part lathing, so that the EPOM substrate is deformed and hermetically fills the gap between the fastener head with the washer and the covering sheet.

Soon enough, the substrate will vulcanize and form an impermeable joint. Therefore, it is recommended to fasten the metal tiles with self-tapping screws 28 mm long.

There is a fairly common erroneous method of screwing fasteners into the top of a wave of sheets.

For this method, self-tapping screws with a length of 60 mm or more are used.

The rigidity of the tile profile at the top of its waves is not sufficient to ensure that the washer is pressed tightly against the substrate.

In addition, the upper waves have a steep radius and there is no convenient landing area. A screw tightened with a screwdriver crushes the metal, thereby reducing the decorative qualities of the profile.

Another serious drawback of this fastening method is the inability to achieve reliable fixation of the material.

When the metal tiles are fastened to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, the roofer screws them in 6/8 pieces per 1 m².

To do this, he does not occupy a convenient position on the roof to screw each specific screw. From one position, let’s say, from a ladder, 5/8 screws are screwed in with each hand.

And if proper screwing of screws into the lower parts of the waves, perpendicular to the sheathing, is technologically advanced, quite convenient and has a small chance of defects, then fastening the metal tiles up the waves is complicated.

In this case, the screw with its drill tip passes through the covering sheet and after 25/50 mm, which depends on the height of the profile, enters the sheathing beam.

In this case, the roofer is forced, holding a screwdriver in his hand with a screw already installed at its end, to look for the sheathing beam under the metal tile by touch.

And finally, another unpleasant consequence of such an erroneous method of fastening sheets is the noise caused by impacts metal tiles against the sheathing during gusts of wind.

Laying diagram of metal tiles

First we need to remind you three the most important rules related to the installation of sheets.

1. Laying the metal tile covering must begin from the lower left corner of the roof.
2. The sheets are mounted from bottom to top, thus top sheet will overlap the lower one.
3. To ensure you get an even cornice line, lay the first sheet very carefully.

Now let’s talk briefly about the sequential scheme for fastening metal tiles.

1. Installation cornice strip.
2. Installation of the lower valley.
3. Arrangement of internal junctions of slopes to walls, chimneys etc.
4. Installation of tile sheets.
5. Mounting the upper valley
6. Installation of upper junction strips.
7. Fastening the end strips.
8. Installation external corners and ridge strips.
9. Installation of passage and ventilation elements.
10. Arrangement of additional safety elements - snow guards, walkways, stairs.

Now let's look at all these stages in more detail.

Stages of laying a metal tile roof

• Next, secure the valley with screws in increments of 30 cm. The lower edge of the additional element should be laid on top of the cornice board. When joining valleys, the overlap between them should be at least 10 cm.

Note!

A sealant must be installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the lower valley. It is best if it is porous and self-adhesive.

1. Arrangement of junctions. To ensure that the junction of the covering to the walls or chimneys is as airtight as possible, an internal apron is mounted on the roof slope. To equip it, a lower connection strip is used.
   How to properly attach the junction strip to a metal tile: it is applied to the wall of the pipe, and its upper edge is marked there.

• A groove is made along the marked line.
• Installation of the internal apron should begin from the lower wall of the chimney. The plank is trimmed as necessary, then installed and secured with roofing screws. The apron is mounted on the remaining walls in the same way.
  To completely eliminate the possibility of leakage, you need to make 15 cm overlaps. The edge of the strip that is inserted into the groove must be sealed. Place a tie under the bottom of the inner apron ( flat sheet
  ), intended for the drainage of atmospheric moisture. You can direct it either down to the roof eaves, or directly into the valley.
• Make a border along the edge of this tie.
  Lay sheets of tiles over the drain and interior apron. Once the covering around the chimney has been laid, you can begin to install the decorative (outer) apron; for this, the upper abutment strips are used.
• It is installed in exactly the same way as the internal analogue, but its upper edge is attached directly to the wall and does not fit into the groove.

1. Connections to walls are carried out according to the same principle as to pipes. In this case, the waterproofing must be removed and raised along the wall to a height of at least 5 cm. Depending on the connection: to the end of the wall or to the side, use a universal or profile seal. Next, what are the rules for fastening metal tiles.
   It must be laid in such a way that the center lines of the cornice and sheet create an angle of 90º.
   In this case, the lower edges of the entire tile will fold into a straight line. When, instead, a jagged edge is formed, it means that somewhere the locks of adjacent sheets do not fit together.

Note!

In other words, they do not fit tightly together, and snow and water will penetrate into the cracks between them.

Then, looking at a metal tile roof from any side, you will not notice that it was assembled from separate sheets: the covering will look monolithic.

Now, a little about how to lay sheets in different ways.

• When installing tiles in one row, the first sheet is laid from right to left and then aligned along the end and eaves. Next, it is temporarily grabbed in the middle at the ridge with only one screw, the second of the sheets is placed on top of it and aligned with the first.
• In a similar way, lay 3/4 of the sheets, fastening them to each other, and not forgetting to align them along the eaves line, and also be sure to pay attention to the overhang.
• Now you can completely attach the sheets to the sheathing. An important nuance is how to properly attach metal tiles: the last sheet in a row is not fixed to the sheathing until the next block of tiles is laid and leveled.
• When installing in several rows, the first sheet is placed from right to left, aligned along the end and cornice, then the second sheet is laid on top of the first and temporarily fixed in the center at the ridge with one screw.
  The sheets are aligned and secured with screws to each other.
• Next comes the turn of the third of the sheets. It is placed on the left side of the first, the sheets are fixed to each other, then the fourth sheet is placed above the third.
  Then the block is leveled along the overhang, cornice and end. Then it is completely attached with screws to the sheathing.
• A little about how to properly fix metal tiles on triangular slopes. Before you start laying the sheets there, you need to mark the middle of the slope and draw a line through it.
  Next, mark the same exact axis on the tile sheet. Then align the center lines on the sheet and the slope. Secure the shingles at the ridge with one screw. From this sheet in both directions, continue assembling the covering according to the principles described above.

1. About installing the end strip. It is at the same time both a decorative and a functional element. Such strips protect the sheets from the effects of the lifting force of gusts of wind, and the fastening points of the metal tiles do not become loose.
   In addition, this additional element protects wooden roofing structures, as well as insulation, from moisture penetration.

• The end strip must be mounted in the direction starting from the eaves and going towards the ridge. It is attached with roofing screws to the end beam in increments of 50/60 cm; due to the difference in heights, the element is pressed tightly against the tile.
  The overlap between the planks should be 10 cm; they can be trimmed as necessary.

1. Installation of the upper valley. This additional element removes water from internal corner the junction of two slopes, in addition to this, it is also a decorative detail that gives aesthetics to the joints.

• The upper valley must be secured with screws so that fasteners for metal tiles do not pierce through the center of the lower valley.
  If this happens, the waterproofing layer will be damaged. A self-expanding seal must be laid between this element and the tile sheets.

1. About the installation of junctions on roof breaks. The boards or sheathing beams on them should be as close to each other as possible.
   The metal tile covering the break should protrude slightly above it, thereby covering it. You can use a cornice strip as a connecting element. Be sure to place a universal seal between the sheet and the strip.

Note!

If the fracture is reversed, then you can use the abutment bar as a mating element. To do this, it must be laid with the rolled side on the lower slope.

1. Laying ridge strips. Air flows go from the eaves to the roof ridge and exit through the holes in the profile sealing material.
   The waterproofing in the space under the ridge has a gap along its entire length, at least 20 cm wide.
   It is advisable to additionally lay the waterproofing film on a solid wooden flooring, so that it overlaps the lower waterproofing layer along the edges by at least 15 cm.

• Fasten the ridge in the upper ridge, through the wave, into the sheathing beam, on both sides, with special ridge screws.
  At the ends, close the installed additional element with the plugs that are included in its delivery. If the ridge is semicircular, then it can be extended by overlapping stiffeners.

1. Installation of security elements. A tubular type snow retainer must be mounted around the perimeter of the roof on the external walls, so that the snow loads are distributed above the level of the eaves overhang.
   Where the snow guard is fixed, a solid wooden flooring must be installed.

• Snow guards must be installed above balconies, roof windows, additional exits from the building and stairs without a canopy. If the length of the slope is more than 8 meters, then it is necessary to install an additional snow retainer.

If you know exactly how the metal tiles are attached, and each element of the mounted finishing coating roofing is assembled by you in compliance with technology, you can be sure that you will receive a beautiful and reliable protection from all atmospheric influences.

Practical and elegant appearance, this is what positively characterizes metal tiles as a roofing material. Big choice colors allows you to apply a variety of architectural solutions for your home. The sheet's protective coating guarantees durability and resistance to precipitation. It is very important to install the roof competently and professionally, therefore correct fastening your metal tile depends on knowing the basic rules for its construction. To do this, you need to take into account a number of factors, and we will try to comprehensively cover them from different angles.

In this article

Material properties and necessary tools for installation

In the production of metal tiles, a steel sheet is used, onto which a multi-layer coating is applied, ensuring its long-term operation and protection from aggressive precipitation. The coating consists of the following components:

1. Cold rolled steel with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 mm;
2. Galvanized coating containing zinc of at least 275 g∕m2;
3. Coating with a composition with anti-corrosion properties;
4. A primer layer that provides the best adhesion of subsequent layers;
5. Polymer coating that guarantees preservation of properties during operation in extreme weather conditions;
6. A layer of varnish that protects against mechanical stress during installation is applied to the inside of the metal tile.

The composition of the coating implies the final cost of the product and can vary widely. For example, a 25 micron polyester coating is the most budget option, whereas matte polyester 35 microns thick, costs significantly more. Plastisol with an application thickness of about 200 microns is considered more resistant to external influences. The polyurethane coating is pural, withstands large temperature changes and has a coating thickness of 50 microns. Whereas the composition of PVDF with acrylic washes itself well and is resistant to aggressive environments. A sheet of cold-rolled steel is galvanized, after which it is stamped and coated with layers of protective coatings and dye to provide a marketable appearance.

The most common dimensions when facing with metal tiles are the manufacturer’s width equal to 1180 mm, with a working width equal to 1100 mm. A pitch of 350 mm is considered optimal and is often used in different types products. The lower cut is located at a distance of 5 mm from the stamped pattern of the product and serves to maintain the necessary overlap during installation. The thickness of the steel is in the range of 0.4-0.6 mm, and allows you to give a certain configuration to the sheet during stamping, to create it structural units rigidity.

We will consider what tools and how to fasten metal tiles below in the text. In order not to damage the multi-layer protective layer of metal tiles, it is necessary to use equipment with a gentle effect when cutting and installing the material, namely:

• measuring tool, which includes a certified tape measure and a building level, as well as a set of marking markers and pencils;
• cutting tools, such as tin snips and low-speed saws, that do not lift up the edges of the sheet when cutting;
• a screwdriver with replaceable batteries and adjustable tightening force, equipped with attachments (bits) for the corresponding screws;
• a dash, designed for convenience when installing complex fastening units and consisting of four boards with a hinged fastening, with dimensions equal to the working width of the metal tile;
• drill with adjustable speed;
• hammer for joining and making bends;
• shoes with soft rubber soles so as not to deform the surface of the material and prevent slipping;
• roofing hexagonal screws at the rate of 8 - 10 pieces per m2 and when installing protective elements of the roof, 3 pieces per linear meter.

The most important thing is to adjust the screwdriver to the force of screwing in the screw. The scheme for fastening the metal tiles with self-tapping screws depends on this, and they need to be screwed in so as not to wrinkle the sheet during installation. The presence of knots or chips at the installation site requires constant visual monitoring of the quality of fasteners. We understand what metal tiles are and how to fasten them, now let’s move on directly to installation.

Before starting roof installation

When starting to lay the roofing, you need to develop a scheme for fastening the metal tiles with self-tapping screws and subsequently adjust it as the roof is installed. In addition to a safe, serviceable tool, you need to work in special clothing and gloves to avoid injuries during work. Do not begin installation in windy weather, since in gusty, side winds, loose sheets can be blown down. This will not only lead to deformation of the sheet itself, but is also dangerous for others. Be sure to secure the ladders that will be used to climb. Be careful not to scratch the back side of the metal tiles on which the protective coating is applied.

Make a supply of aerosol paint to match the color of the roof in case of damage to the front side of the material.

Before attaching metal tiles, you must ensure that there are no flaws on the roof slopes. Eliminate defects in a timely manner so that installation proceeds quickly and efficiently. Fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws should be carried out by an experienced employee equipped with an adjusted tool. To ensure that the fastener is not noticeable, its hex heads and pressure washers should be painted in the color of the sheets. If shavings get on the metal tiles, it is necessary to remove them with a soft brush. A screwed-in self-tapping screw may get caught in a knot; in order to tighten it to the rubber gasket seal, workers must be provided with keys of the appropriate size. Monitor the quality of the self-tapping screws and rubber sealing washers, which must be made of frost-resistant rubber.

• The scheme for fastening the sheets refers to the order in which they are laid on the slopes and the subsequent fastening of the metal tiles to the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the pitch of the sheathing so that it coincides with the pitch of the material itself. With a smaller gap, the sheathing is laid at the ridge and in the area of ​​the cornice, where increased strength is required, and this is where the metal tiles are attached more carefully. The sheets should be screwed along a line spaced 10 mm from the figured stamping of the material, that is, at the point of greatest contact of the sheet to the sheathing. Let's return to how to lay out the coating and how to properly attach metal tiles. The installation procedure is as follows:
• first you need to install the cornice strips in increments of 35 cm, each subsequent one overlaps the previous strip by 10 cm;
• then the top sheet is mounted, overlapping the bottom sheet by 5-7 cm; if it fits the ridge, then you need to take care of waterproofing to avoid leaks;
• then the next bottom sheet is placed, overlapping the outer wave of the previous one until the anti-capillary groove is closed;
• after this, the next top covering element is installed;
• in order to perfectly align the roof with respect to the side edges and cornice, use a block of four sheets fastened together, it is leveled, it is only necessary to partially secure the edge of the structure, leaving freedom of movement;
• when the slope is different from rectangular, then first you need to set the central sheet, and mount the subsequent sheets from it on both sides;
• when complex design roofs, you can use a dash for marking and cutting, which, with a working width of 110 cm, allows you to accurately set the cutting angles of metal tiles;
• the sheet adjacent to the ridge is waterproofed, and the ridge structure is fastened taking into account the ventilation gap.

It must be remembered that metal tiles need to be leveled both along the eaves and along the waves of adjacent sheets.

You need to understand how to properly screw metal tiles onto different areas of the roof. The procedure for correct joining of elements when covering areas with a complex configuration is also important.

Installation and joining of the roof

Various architectural solutions make roofs not only beautiful, but often quite difficult to manufacture. So, at joints in difficult areas, the sheets have to be twisted to obtain the desired result. In this case, the rule of overlap of roof elements should not be violated, and the metal tiles must be leveled along the eaves.

The metal tiles are fastened to the sheathing using roofing screws, which have a sealing washer and a rubber gasket. Rubber is needed to prevent moisture from entering the under-roof space through the drilled mounting hole. The galvanized and painted self-tapping screw has a hex head, with which it can be screwed in with a screwdriver. The self-tapping tip and threaded notch make it easy to drill through sheet metal and secure it in the sheathing, pulling the metal tiles to it. Basically, self-tapping screws are used for roofing installation, the length of which allows them to penetrate the wood by at least 2 cm.

The screws should be screwed in strictly vertically, in the place of best contact with the sheathing, so that the rubber washer is guaranteed to seal the fastening point. If the fastener gets into dense wood, then you need to manually use a wrench to achieve a high-quality seal that prevents moisture from leaking. The sheets can be joined together in the protruding part of the wave, ensuring high-quality fastening at the junction.

To securely fasten the metal tiles to the eaves and the end of the roof, you need to screw the fasteners into each wave. This also applies to the junctions with pipes and the ridge part of the roof, as well as at the connection points of the sheets. The metal tiles are fastened across the area with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern. When installing in the area of ​​chimneys or other obstacles, it should be remembered that the matching of the roofing sheet and apron must have an overlap of at least 20 cm. Installation of ridge elements and eaves strips is done with a fastening step of 35 cm, the same applies to the end windproof elements.

We have collected information on how to fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws into a single overview and have analyzed the installation diagrams for constructing a roof. By following these tips and using a quality construction material, you can quite easily put a roof on your house. Proper fastening of the covering elements with self-tapping screws will guarantee quality and durability and will delight you and your family.

Metal tiles are a roofing material made of metal with a sheet profile shape that imitates classic clay tiles. It is attached to a wooden sheathing. For this, special self-tapping screws are used. Installation is carried out taking into account the distinctive characteristics of the material.

Use dry edged board, treated with an antiseptic, without traces of mold, rot, or fungal infections on the surface. It is mounted horizontally to the rafters and vertical slats. Dimensions of elements: width - 100, thickness - 25-30 mm. The last dimension must be the same for all parts, the maximum deviation is no more than 3 mm. The bottommost board is made 15 mm thicker than the others. To fasten the ridge along the upper ridge section of the roof, a special strip is installed.

Three types of lathing are used:

1. Sparse (step) the most common type, suitable for roofs with a slope of 20°. Optimal step between the boards is equal to the wavelength of the roofing. The exception is the distance between the slats of the first and second row. It should be less by the amount of overhang of the sheet - about 5 cm. With this arrangement of the boards, it is easy to fasten the metal tiles, since the places for the screws are immediately visible. The permissible distance from one frame element to another is 30-70 cm. The greater the slope of the roof, the less snow accumulates on it, the more steps can be taken between the boards.

2. Solid. Suitable for flat roofs with a slope of 14 to 20°. The step between the boards is 2-3 cm.

3. Combined. With this option, step lathing is made on the main part of the roof, and in the area of ​​the ridge connection, chimney, valley, roof window, hatch, snow guards - solid.

What do you need to know about self-tapping screws?

For metal tiles, special roofing self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used. When screwed in, they cut through the covering sheet and secure it tightly.

Distinctive features:

• They are made from high-carbon galvanized steel. They do not rust for a long time from frequent contact with rainwater and snow. High-quality roofing screws are marked on the head.
• Self-tapping screws are produced in different colors. This allows you to match them to the shade of the roof; they do not stand out against the background of the coating. For copper tiles, special products made from the same metal are chosen.
• The set of roofing fasteners includes rubber or latex caps and press washers. When screwed in, they are flattened, which creates an effective waterproofing in the holes. The penetration of water inside is significantly reduced. Poor quality gaskets (press washers) deteriorate over time and moisture begins to enter the holes.
• The length is at least 2.8 cm and must be 2 cm more than the total thickness of the roofing covering and the layer of waterproofing material.

Scheme and methods of fastening

Self-tapping screws are installed in the hardest place of the wave - the bottom, almost at the base of the next one. If the frame is mounted correctly, then the fasteners fall on cross boards. You cannot place it at the top of the wave - in this case, the metal tiles bend.

Before starting installation, it is recommended to draw a drawing of the sheathing and roof with the screw locations marked. Too much screw consumption requires the same number of holes. This leads to more moisture getting under the roof during rain, which means the material will deteriorate faster. If you rarely install them, the tiles will vibrate from the wind, create noise and will soon become unusable.

Standard scheme:

• The outermost sheets (ends and overhang) are fixed on each wave. The same consumption is planned in the area of ​​the ridge, valley, and valleys.
• The main part is attached through one wave.
• The metal tiles are connected to each other along the frame in increments of 1 m.
• On additional elements - 3-5 pieces per linear. m.
• The self-tapping screw should be in the center of the sheathing board or no closer than 1-1.2 cm from its edge.

To draw up drawings and calculations required quantity find out how many screws are needed for square meter. Usually this is at least 8-12 screws. For a roof of complex geometric shape, the quantity is increased.

The nuances of installing metal tiles

The tiles are made from the following materials:

• cold-rolled galvanized steel sheets;
• aluminum;
• copper.

The first two have a special protective polymer coating on the surface on one or both sides that prevents exposure to ultraviolet radiation and precipitation.

According to the instructions, devices and devices that cause heating should not be used for cutting and fastening metal tiles. This is due to the risk of damage to the protective polymer coating. It is correct to turn on the drill and screwdriver at low speeds. When screwing, it is necessary to control the pressure force; it should be moderate. Bending and too much pressure also lead to the destruction of the protective polymer layer and deformation of the material. Insufficient pressure will not fix the product securely.

Installation tools

To properly fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• marker;
• hammer;
• a screwdriver or drill with a low-speed function, it is acceptable to use a screwdriver; power tools are more convenient when powered by a battery rather than mains power;
• tools for cutting metal - jigsaw, metal saw, carbide circular saw.

Place tools in convenient location to prevent them from falling from the roof.

Fastening roofing screws

When installing metal tiles, follow the following rules:

1. Start from the lower right or left corner, and if the roof is hipped, then exactly from the center to create symmetry, finishing the work at the ridge.

2. The overhang above the eaves line is at least 5 cm. It is needed so that rain and melt water flows directly into the drain. In special cases, under difficult conditions, it is permissible to install the first sheet above the eaves board, but it is advisable to avoid this.

3. Screws are screwed in from bottom to top strictly at right angles to the roof surface. Otherwise, the press washer will not close the hole and water will get into it.

4. The self-tapping screw is placed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the stamping line between the crests of the waves.

5. The gap between the screw head and the tile should be at least 0.5-1 mm. When screwed in, the cap is slightly deformed, the rubber gasket is pressed tightly against the surface of the coating. It is impossible to screw the products all the way, otherwise there is a high risk of deformation.

6. The sheets are mounted overlapping the width of one wave. At the joints, self-tapping screws are installed in the rise of the wave, through both layers of material. This is necessary so that there is no gap and water does not penetrate. For this purpose, special short screws are used.

7. The ridge is placed on top of the fixed metal tile, fixed to the board at the top of the sheathing.

If the roof slope is small, then the joints and junctions of the tiles with vertical surfaces and elements are additionally processed during installation silicone sealant to create a barrier to moisture penetration. If the polymer protective coating was damaged during the process, then this place is painted over with anti-corrosion paint for metal.

If the tile covering is installed incorrectly, the service life of such a roof is significantly reduced. We propose to consider how metal tiles are fastened to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, a diagram for installing sheets, and also how the end strip (wind strip) is installed.

The principle of installation of tiles

Installation of this roofing is carried out using standard construction screws. The use of nails is extremely undesirable, because under impact loads, the layers of metal tiles disintegrate, causing the building material to collapse.

Photo - Metal tile installation system

Roofing screws are used for installing corrugated sheets, boards, metal tiles and other materials. Externally, they look like steel screws, often made of alloy material. The surface of the screws is coated with a layer of zinc to better resist corrosion processes. The head of the screws has a hexagonal shape. Thanks to this geometry of the product, the load is distributed evenly over the surface of the metal tile sheet.

Photo - correct and incorrect fastening of metal tiles

There must be a flat ring or gasket under the head. This part protects the roof surface from scratches and corrosion. Also, thanks to the gasket, depressions or dents do not form on the roof after installation of the covering. Self-tapping screws can be selected with different metal alloys, colors, head sizes and lengths. All these parameters must be agreed upon with the engineer who calculated the roof. But Special attention Always pay attention to the washers; they must be made of a durable rubber compound.

Photo - self-tapping screw for roofing work

The shelf life of fasteners, like metal tiles, is within 50 years. In this case, it is very important to strictly monitor the gasket. If the washer is made of low-quality material, the metal underneath will begin to rust before the time specified by the manufacturer, which can cause damage to the entire surface of the roof.

Photo - installation diagram of metal tiles

How to mount correctly

When you have already decided on the material and purchased fasteners, you can begin installation roofing material. To properly attach metal tiles to the roof with your own hands, you need to use advice professional builders:

1. Make sure that during fastening the washer is in a straight position, is not pinched and does not protrude upward;
2. In order to install the metal tiles evenly on the sheathing, you need to use guidelines. It is not convenient for everyone to mark the installation locations of screws on each sheet; many professional builders advise to navigate by the previous step of metal tiles. By stepping back a couple of centimeters from it, you will ensure a simple and beautiful installation of the material;
3. Use a screwdriver - this will significantly speed up the installation process;
4. Screw the screws into the lower parts of the wave; when installing fasteners on the ridge, you may not be able to reach the sheathing with the screw, which will lead to a decrease in the rigidity of the roof;
5. The self-tapping screw must fit into the roof frame at least two centimeters. This is very important both for the rigidity of the surface and for its tightness. With this supply, you will close the holes into which the screws and washers were screwed and ensure the dryness of the under-roof space.;
6. Check all connections carefully, otherwise when there are gusts of wind they will knock heavily on the roof and may even come off and cause damage.

Instructions on how to attach metal tiles:

1. Install the first sheet of metal shingles level with the end strip. It is along this part of the roof that the leveling is carried out;
2. Then, using a screwdriver, connect the covering and the rafters. It is very important that the self-tapping screw fits into rafter board to a depth of 2 centimeters. To do this, choose screws with a length of 60 millimeters;
3. On any metal corrugated covering you need to attach up to 8 pieces of self-tapping screws. A smaller amount will increase the likelihood of a decrease in fastening strength, and a larger amount will significantly reduce rigidity;
4. Sheets of metal tiles are mounted in the direction from the base to the ridge or top of the grid;
5. At the end of the work, treat the joints between the screws and the roofing with a special mastic. This will help protect them from corrosion if the surface of the metal tiles is damaged. Before purchasing such a product, be sure to consult with sales consultants. Some types of paints and varnishes damage the polymer top layer of tiles, reducing its resistance to aggressive external factors.

There are several secrets that help when installing metal tiles. For example, for perfect evenness of the cornice strip, it is important to install the very first row of sheets with high quality. It was from him geometric accuracy The parallelism of other sheets depends.

The fastening points for metal tiles must be at right angles to the roof. This scheme helps ensure the tightness and durability of the connection. Also, thanks to such connections, a jagged surface (cascade) is formed along the purlins, which prevents snow from falling from the roof surface.

Video instructions for attaching tiles

Hidden mount

Nowadays, metal tiles with a hidden lock are also used quite often, for example, Monterrey. It is considered more aesthetic, but the process is also more labor-intensive. For such an installation, a special metal tile is required, which is equipped with special holders.

Photo - Metal tiles with hidden fastening

The procedure for attaching metal tiles with a hidden connection:

1. Install holders on the sheathing that will serve as a support for the tile sheets. They need to be mounted on the very first eaves beam. The optimal pitch of the holder along the rafters is 250 mm;
2. Now, without using additional screws, hook the sheet of metal tile onto the holder and lightly press it until it clicks. At correct location the first row, the rest will not need adjustment or alignment;
3. To install further coverage, you will need self-tapping screws. They need to be mounted on the roof in special places indicated by depressions on the sheets of metal tiles;
4. After this comes a row of tiles, which are secured using special Z-lock “locks”. They are located in designated areas, their location is marked with special marks, which you can find in the instructions for a specific brand of roofing;
5. After this, the standard fastening of the ridge of the metal tile is carried out.

Photo - Metal tiles with z-lock lock

It should be noted that this method installing roof coverings is more practical and safer than standard installation with self-tapping screws. The minimal use of bolts can significantly extend the life of the roof and ensure the required rigidity and strength of the coating. Such materials are sold in company stores.

With this installation option, the accuracy of fastening the wooden wind strip and metal tiles is also very important. It is worth remembering that before starting roofing work it is necessary to install gutters and other drainage elements. For the beauty of the facades, we advise you to cover the open space below with planks after finishing the work.

Photo - snow guards on the roof

But at the same time, the snow retainers are attached to the metal tiles after the sheets are installed. The technology is simple: in certain places you need to make holes in the roof, and then install additional elements on it using a screwdriver. This way you can install roofing material on the roof of a house, garage or veranda.

A very important fastening element used during roof installation is the self-tapping screw. This detail guarantees the quality of reliable fixation and determines the durability and strength of the future roof.

To avoid unpleasant situations during installation of the structure, you need to learn in more detail what self-tapping screws for metal tiles are, as well as study the subtleties of choice and installation rules.

Peculiarities

The presence of a washer is the main thing distinctive feature roofing screws. The main task of the auxiliary element is to uniformly distribute the pressure of the head on the surface of the roofing, as well as completely seal the mounting hole. The functional features of the self-tapping washer for metal tiles influenced the fact that a rubber sealing ring appeared in this product.

Since the roof is exposed to precipitation, it is important that the sealing material is of sufficient quality. Based on this, an EPDM rubber O-ring is considered the best. This material perfectly tolerates temperature changes and other negative factors, while maintaining its basic characteristics. a long period

time.

The expected structural load affects the type of roofing screws. According to this criterion, fasteners are divided into two categories: metal-wood and metal-metal. This classification should not be neglected; self-tapping screws must be used strictly for their intended purpose.

There is no need to worry about the screw washers coming out on the surface of the roofing material.

Currently, on the construction market, it is quite easy to choose the required shade of screws that fully matches the color of the metal tile.

Specifications

Typically, roofing screws are made from galvanized carbon steel. The anti-corrosion coating increases the service life, which can last up to 50 years.

There are also stainless steel self-tapping screws, which are used preferably in places that require strict assurance of increased reliability and strength of the roof. Their price is much higher than galvanized ones.

• Self-tapping screws for metal tiles are also classified according to the shape of the cap, which can be:
• standard, adapted for a screwdriver or screwdriver;

hexagonal, requiring the use of special bits. Self-tapping screws differ in markings, each has certain:

• specifications
• material hardness;
• product length;
• thread pitch;
• flange thickness;
• diameter and height of the cap;

turnkey size.

Among the wide variety of options for fixing elements, you can select suitable fasteners that have the necessary technical characteristics in a particular case.

Kinds

• Roofing screws are divided into two main types:
• for wood;

for metal. Wood screws have a rather rare carving and a drill-shaped tip.

Self-tapping screws for metal have a frequent thread; they are slightly larger in diameter than those described above and practically do not stick to wood, therefore they are not used for fastening to wooden structures.

They are used for fixing roofing coverings to metal profile sheathing.

The most used sizes of metal screws:

• product 4.8 by 19 mm, with metal thickness ≤ 3 mm;
• 5.5 by 25 mm, metal thickness ≤ 6 mm;
• 5.5 by 35 mm and 5.5 by 50 mm for drilling metal ≤12 mm thick.

Both types of self-tapping screws have either a standard or hex head, a washer with a seal, threads and a tip with a drill. These fasteners are produced in various colors, corresponding to the color palette of corrugated sheeting or cladding such as metal tiles.

Material consumption

Fasteners should be purchased at an average rate of 8-10 pieces per 1 m2 of roof area. It should be understood that the number of screws per square can be increased if the roof has a non-standard geometric shape or some additional elements.

In the lower part, it is recommended to place fasteners through one wave in each of the sheets of metal tiles, while the self-tapping screw is screwed in in places where the cavity of the wave abuts the profile. It is considered a gross mistake to fasten through the crest of a wave - this can deform the metal tile. Then the screws are screwed through the wave, keeping the rows in a checkerboard pattern.

Sheets of metal tiles are laid overlapping on the sides, these seams should be secured along the crest of each wave. The end strip is fixed, observing the screw pitch of 500-600 mm. The ridge strips are fixed with special ridge screws; they are also screwed into the roofing through one wave.

Criterias of choice

When purchasing self-tapping screws at a hardware store (to avoid purchasing, do not quality product), parts must be tested according to several indicators.

• Test for the quality of protective coating. To do this, you need to strongly squeeze the press washer using pliers. A product that has a poor-quality coating will certainly crack. In most cases, electroplated zinc is used as a coating. This helps ensure maximum adhesion of materials.
• You should check the tightness of the gasket to the base and the quality of the rubber washer, which is located directly under the cap. The sealing ring ensures a tight fit of the self-tapping screw head to the metal tile sheet; the durability of the roofing depends on it. Poor quality gaskets deteriorate over time under the negative influence of the atmosphere and begin to leak moisture, which leads to corrosion of the coating.
• It is necessary to check the presence of appropriate markings on the cap. The absence of one may be an indicator of non-compliance with quality.

To guarantee the purchase of high-quality self-tapping screws, experts recommend products from European brands. Of course, these products are more expensive, but the high quality of the material, proven strength and reliability of the products (along with a long-term warranty) compensate for the costs incurred.

Mounts for roofing coverings are made of high-carbon steel and are necessarily tested before going on sale. Manufacturers of quality products guarantee a long period of operation, which is about 50 years.

During testing, self-tapping screws are subjected to severe deformations:

• about 20,000 bends at 5 degrees;
• 2000 bends at 10 degrees;
• 100 bends at 15 degrees.

The required dimensions of roofing screws, as well as the thread pitch, are determined based on the materials being fastened, their thickness and the desired penetration depth.

Installation features

Fastening metal tiles is a difficult process, requiring certain knowledge, skills and abilities. Getting started installation work First of all, you should worry about the quality preparation of the base or sheathing to which the metal tiles will be attached in the future. This structure is made of wooden planks, the horizontal step between which must be a multiple of the size of the sheets of roofing material.

For example, the width of the tile is 1000 mm, which means that it is better to make the sheathing pitch equal to 500 mm - this will ensure that one sheet of tile is fastened to three strips at once. After this, it is necessary to think over a scheme for fastening the roofing material with self-tapping screws.

Basic requirements and installation features.

• You should not use tools without the ability to adjust the speed to install self-tapping screws.
• When screwing roofing fasteners into wood, the speed on the device should not exceed 1800 rpm (more than 1500 rpm for metal screws).
• Screws must be screwed in only at right angles to the plane of the roofing material using magnetic attachments.
• It is necessary to adjust the tightening force of the screw so that after screwing in, the edges of the seal protrude beyond the edges of the press washer by approximately 0.5-1mm;
• Damage or breakage of the screw is not permitted, including the removal of any part of it.
• It is considered correct to screw thin metal to thicker metal; on the contrary, this is not recommended.

Technological features of the installation process depend on factors such as:

• type of products used;
• their thickness;
• lathing characteristics, etc.

In this case, in any case, the total thickness of the fastened products must be at least 3 millimeters less than the length of the roofing screw.

In most cases, self-tapping roofing screws are attached to any material without pre-drilling. However, there are situations that require through drilling before screwing in the screw.

Most often this occurs when working with metal products, having a fairly large thickness. Drilling is carried out using a drill, the drill diameter of which is 0.5-1 ml less than the self-tapping screw. For screwing in self-tapping screws, they are used various instruments, the choice of which depends on the type of fastener head.

For information on how to choose self-tapping screws for metal tiles, see below.