Paving slabs - manufacturing technology at home, from mortar to estimates. How to make paving slabs at home - several options Do-it-yourself wooden paving stones

Thick only. There are no puddles on such a coating, it does not crack when the soil swells, and most importantly, it can be easily made independently. Do-it-yourself paving stones - this is the topic of this article.

There are two ways to make such modules:

1. vibrocompression;
2. vibrocasting.

At home, paving stones can only be reproduced by vibrocasting.

Here's what you need for this:

• cement or concrete mortar;
• . Provides a dense laying of the solution in the form, that is, without voids;
• lubrication: prevents the solution from sticking to the mold.

Grease is prepared from the following components:

• water: 1.5 l;
• liquid soap: 2 tablespoons;
• machine oil: 100 g.

As an alternative, drying oil and vegetable oil are used.

Tools and equipment:

• concrete mixer or drill with a mixer nozzle;
• vibrating table: it can be replaced with an old one washing machine running in spin mode. A "trembling" structure can be built from a 10 mm steel plate laid on a car tire. To make the countertop vibrate, a jigsaw is fixed on it and turned on if necessary;
• Master OK;
• building level.

You will also need a piece of plastic wrap.

Manufacturing technology

The order of home production of paving stones looks like this:

1. make several molds. It is also possible to purchase in a store - today they are sold in a wide variety;
2. prepare a solution;
3. placing the forms on the vibrating table, lubricate them and pour the solution. If necessary, perform reinforcement;
4. leave castings in molds for 48 hours;
5. remove the modules from the molds and hold for some more time until complete curing;
6. carry out finishing processing: or ironing.

Small production of paving stones

In most cases, paving slabs are required by the site owner for a one-time production of a site or path. In this case, he needs a small number of forms (from 7 to 12) with a very limited resource, for example, from polyurethane or. They can easily be made on your own, which will reduce the cost of manufacturing the coating even more.

It is not necessary to purchase a concrete mixer for a small batch: the solution can be prepared in a bucket, mixing it with a drill with a mixer nozzle.

Making a mold

There are two types of molds for the production of paving stones:

Form making procedure:

1. a rectangular frame is knocked together from the bars with internal dimensions that are 2 cm larger than the dimensions of the sample tile. This is formwork. In depth, it also exceeds the thickness of the tile by 1 - 2 cm;
2. the frame is laid on a rubber mat covered with polyethylene and a template tile is placed inside it in the center;
3. cover the sample with lubricant;
4. the free space of the frame is filled with the material from which it is planned to make the matrix.

Compositions suitable for making molds

The matrix for casting tiles can be made from polymers or gypsum.

Varieties of forms for paving stones

Polyethylene

Recycled raw materials for subsequent melting are found at every step. These are lighter cases, old canisters, etc. The plastic hardens in about an hour. Sometimes sanding is required. Molds made of this material are relatively durable: each one is enough for 250 castings.

Gypsum

This material hardens quickly, so it is prepared immediately before pouring. In order to extend the resource, a plasticizer and cement are added.

Gypsum repeats all the details, even the smallest ones, because this form reproduces patterns of any complexity that are available on the sample. The disadvantage is fragility: the shape is easily damaged when the module is removed.

But it is not critical, since gypsum is cheap. In the role of formwork, instead of wooden bars, you can use a plastic container for food products.

Silicone

Forms from this material are quite popular because they have a number of advantages:

• most accurately repeat the small details of the relief, therefore they allow you to reproduce tiles of the most complex configuration, almost one to one;
• due to their flexibility, they facilitate extraction;
• do not crack on impact;
• silicone does not emit harmful substances during the preparation process.

Silicone forms

The disadvantage of silicone molds is a limited resource: it is possible to cast no more than 100 modules into them with high quality. Silicone is prepared from 3 components: base, hardener and catalyst. It is important to follow the recipe (indicated on the package) and cook at the right temperature - not lower than +20 0 С.

The components are mixed until homogeneous. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles in the mixture. In the manufacture silicone mold sculptural plasticine is laid on the bottom of the wooden formwork in a thick even layer and only then the template is placed.

The thickness of the plasticine must be taken into account when choosing the depth of the formwork. The mold is removed from the formwork in a day. Excess silicone is cut off with scissors.

Polyurethane

It is also a very fluid substance, repeating the smallest details of the relief, but much stronger than silicone. Polyurethane emits toxic fumes and causes irritation if it comes into contact with the skin.

Work conditions:

• the room is well ventilated;
• for personal protection use gloves, goggles and a respirator.

Polyurethane is prepared from two components - a base and a hardener. It is important to avoid contact with wet surfaces: the substance reacts with water. The form is taken out of the formwork after 24 hours, but it gains full hardness only after another two days.

Solution preparation

The ingredients used are the following:

1. cement brand M500 or higher, preferably white - 1 part. It is desirable that the content of 3-calcium aluminate does not exceed 8% (preferably up to 5%);
2. river sand, sifted, with a fineness modulus of 2-3 parts;
3. drinking water - 0.5 mass fraction. Additional cleaning of the liquid is not required;
4. plasticizer - at the rate of 10 ml per 1 kg of cement. If necessary, the dose can be increased, up to 1% of the dose is allowed. total weight solution. Along with purchased plasticizers, "folk" ones are used - protein chicken eggs, PVA glue, detergent, washing powder and slaked lime;
5. dispersant: a component that gives the tile frost resistance. It is applied in the amount of 90 g per 1 m 2 of coating. This is an important component, since paving stones, unlike wall or foundation cladding, cannot be protected with a water repellent - it will quickly wear off. The use of a dispersant makes it possible to raise the frost resistance of tiles to F300 (withstands 300 freeze-thaw cycles without destruction);
6. dye (pigment). Depending on the desired color, it is added in an amount of 0.5% to 10% by weight of the solution. The dye is dissolved in water in a separate container, and a dispersant is added there.

Volumetric staining is resorted to only when using white cement. In other cases, they are painted superficially: the dye is rubbed with a trowel into a solution that has not yet dried.

Cement with sand and plasticizer are combined until homogeneous in a concrete mixer or bucket, then water is added little by little. The consistency is considered normal if the solution is sufficiently fluid and does not crack, but does not slip off the trowel. Next, a dye with a dispersant is added.

In addition to sand, crushed stone with a fraction of 3-5 mm can be added to the paving stones. In this case, cement, sand and gravel are taken in two parts. To strengthen the final product, it is useful to add glass or polyamide fibers to the solution.

Filling a Shape

The form is filled out like this:

1. install the product on a vibrating table leveled at the building level - factory or home-made;
2. with a brush, cover the mold from the inside with grease;
3. half filled with a solution and turn on the vibrating table. The total duration of vibrolaying is 5-10 minutes:
4. after half the vibro-laying cycle, a steel or polymer mesh (reinforcement) is placed on the solution and the solution is added to the top.

After that, the forms are removed from the vibrating table to the rack.

It is not necessary to paint the tiles throughout. You can prepare two portions of the solution: tinted and plain gray. First, the form is filled by a third with a colored solution, then with a regular one. By pouring two multi-colored layers, marble can be imitated.

solidification

The water in the mortar reacts with the cement, so it is important to minimize its evaporation. For this purpose, the filled forms are placed under polyethylene, and in the heat they are also periodically watered.

After two days, the castings are taken out of the molds, but they continue to be kept under polyethylene and moistened, if necessary, for another 10 days.

Full maturation occurs after 28 days. When the solution hardens slightly, you can squeeze out a pattern in the tile with a stamp made of hard wire.

Ironing

This operation is carried out in order to increase the strength of homemade tiles. Dry cement is poured onto the still wet modules with a thin layer and smoothed with polishing movements.

Related videos

Step-by-step instruction on making paving stones with your own hands in the video:

Home-made paving stones, subject to the production technology, are not inferior to factory-made analogues. It is noteworthy that it can be done in any conditions. The main attention is paid to the quality of the solution: the strength and wear resistance of the tile depends on this.

Paving slabs have become almost the only acceptable option for creating walking paths on the suburban area, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite the variety of modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And the prices for complex figured products often bite. But there is a way out - to do paving slabs you can do it yourself at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create homemade tiles are afraid of two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality of finished products. But considering the possibility phased production, which allows you to engage in production on weekends or during free time, the process is not so long. In addition, the cost of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating 10% from the family budget for 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of the monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to the technology and not try to save a lot, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

The combination of gray and beige tiles (made of white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments.

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of artisanal paving slabs

As you can see, for every drawback of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show your guests the work of your own hands, you can safely proceed to the implementation of the intended design of the tracks.

Existing manufacturing technologies

Tiles and paving stones, which you could see from your neighbors, are made using only three technologies: pouring into the formwork, vibrocasting and vibrocompression.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs by stamping

There is also a technique for imitation of paving slabs, when the texture is created with stamps on a wet concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like a paved path, but in fact it is a monolithic concrete slab with all its shortcomings. Looking closely at the seams, it is easy to see that they are inseparable from the plates and are not able to ensure the drainage of water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the version with imitation seen in the photo, we recommend reproducing it in classical technology, from separate plates. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into a removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into the formwork

Formwork pouring technology is the simplest and least time-consuming way to manufacture paving slabs. Products are cast directly at the place of use over compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the plates. Since the mold is removed while the concrete is not completely cured, you can use only one mold and prepare small portions of the mortar in a bucket with a construction mixer (no concrete mixer). The form can also be filled incompletely, forming neat bends of the garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the plates is always the same, since the form is open and sets only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• despite the addition of binders, the service life of such a tile is several times less than that of a vibrocast one.

Distinguishing a track from such a tile is quite simple. As a rule, it imitates the layout of a wild stone with irregularly shaped fragments, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are mounted directly on the ground without a sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the joints.

vibrocasting

Vibrocast paving slabs - the most common option

Vibrocast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither filling nor vibrocompression creates a complex shape of a tile and a small textured pattern on its surface. The front side of a vibrocast tile is usually more glossy, and the color is brighter than that of a vibropressed tile.

Among other advantages of this finishing material:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since the vibration during casting expels air bubbles and enhances the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower plasticizer consumption (compared to pouring into the formwork);
• the possibility of manufacturing a durable quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

Of the shortcomings, only a small thickness of the plate can be distinguished, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. On a smooth tile, the risk of slipping also increases, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibrocompression

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibrocompression - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibrocasting is that the solution in the form is subjected to powerful blows of a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in terms of its properties, the material is an analogue of an artificial stone. Therefore, it is it that is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in squares and parking areas in private areas. Due to its high density, the tile is very frost-resistant, it can withstand up to 300 freeze / thaw cycles.

The method is most often used for the production paving stones, not tiles. It is easy to distinguish it by its increased thickness with small dimensions (it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher, and its color is paler. Since it is impossible to make a pattern on a separate fragment, to enhance the decorative effect, the paving stones are laid in beautiful ornaments (at home, you can use the cross-stitch pattern).

Among the disadvantages of vibropressed tiles, only the high price and considerable weight can be distinguished, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Comparing the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is easy to come to the conclusion that vibrocast products should be manufactured at home. It remains to decide on the equipment and the necessary materials.

Even with home-made equipment from improvised means, you can cast good tiles

What is needed for work

Usually the owners country houses have at least a little construction experience, and many even build their homes from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore, some necessary tools and you probably have minimal skills to work with them.

Table: equipment for vibrocasting paving slabs

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Casting slabs without vibration by an order of magnitude reduces the durability of the product, although appearance it is not noticeable at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen still advise using at least a handicraft vibrating table.

Scheme of the device of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between the vibrating table and the usual one is that the tabletop is not rigidly attached to the base, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unnecessary kitchen table with a metal frame, it may well become the basis for the necessary equipment. It remains only to attach the countertop through the springs and fix the motor from the old washing machine under it.

If you have firmly decided to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of the vibrating table with exact dimensions

In the found drawing, you can change:

• the height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is convenient for you to use);
• proportions and size of the countertop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• the number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add to the four in the corners along the middle line of the long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or pick up a more suitable one on the net.

To implement the project, you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine ( wooden base not suitable for the product, and the fastening of the skeleton on the bolts quickly loosens up from vibration, so you can’t do without welding);
• grinder for cutting metal with the appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a margin);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill;
• electric motor (for the manufacture of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• a sheet of metal for a countertop with a thickness of 6 mm or more (you can get by with a thinner sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from the corner);
• metal corner (to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes of suitable length for table legs;
• pipe segments with a diameter of 2–4 mm larger diameter springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown into service stations, will do)

The correct spring for the vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place a vibrating table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. It’s not worth welding, long hardware fastened with self-tightening lock nuts will be enough (they only fix it stronger from vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the speed of the motor. Therefore, when manufacturing a vibrating table, do not save on an electronic potentiometer. It will help you set up the appliance for optimal tile compaction.

Let's get to work:

1. Weld the skeleton of the vibrating table, following the proposed scheme. Be sure to control the correctness of the angles and the location of the glasses under the springs, so that later the tile lies strictly horizontally and does not “jump” off the table during operation.

   Corner clamp - the best tool for the correct welding of right angles

2. Cut a sheet of metal to required sizes and weld a narrow strip or corner around the perimeter so that a rim with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the countertop

3. Weld the springs to the base and countertop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, it remains to fix the countertop

4. Place an electric motor under the tabletop, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach an off-center weight to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be built from the remains of corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to the side of the table that is convenient for work and fix it on the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip off due to vibration.

6. Fix the table firmly on the base of the most convenient way(the choice depends on where and on what the working device will stand). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to fix it.

   Tests of this vibrating table showed that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are reliable. Touch up welds as needed, adjust motor speed, make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Forms for tiles should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles right at the place of use;
• tray molds are only suitable for vibrocasting.

There are also special metal molds for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

A variety of non-standard shapes for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different forms for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of old masonry with cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models "Lily", "Antique", "Rondo" and others with fine detailed ornament);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief (convex images of Greek heroes, dragons, snakes, characters of the Chinese epic, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you not to cut whole products when laying.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Gallery: forms for paving slabs from different materials

How to make DIY forms

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, it is worth using improvised materials: pieces of wood, plastic scraps, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in a homemade form

Consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create such a shape, you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four planks for the sidewalls (you can take an unnecessary box from old bedside table). The junction of the base and sidewalls will need to be sealed with building silicone. It is desirable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully fixed to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help to detect cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can proceed to the first pour.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can also serve as the basis for more complex forms. For example, such a detachable hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found in the country, you just need to trim their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a form divided into cells the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is desirable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of a suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and lay the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After that, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different variants the location or shape of the stones.

Using the same technology, self-made molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Forms of any origin should be lubricated with Emulsol, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable / mineral oil before use.

Video: mold release test

Mortar materials

When making a solution, you will need:

• cement grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tile;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and carefully sieved) as a filler;
• small gravel or screenings (filler, enhances the solution, makes the product textured);
• pure water room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical stress (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each shape);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in the form of a powder or a ready-made solution (if you need a colored tile).

To give the tile additional water-repellent properties and speed up hardening, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles need fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if all of it has spilled out, it will do, if it has gathered in a lump, it is too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters of warm water into the tank and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will turn out.

3. When you make sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after it - cement. Add water as needed until you use the specified amount.

   Calculate the volume of one serving so that your concrete mixer can knead it well

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions and keep on the trowel with a slide without slipping.

   With a solution of the correct consistency, it is easy to work with a trowel of any shape

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and make stripping

1. The finished solution is poured into lubricated forms, you can directly on the vibrating table.

   Rectangular molds are denser on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After that, vibration starts, during which the mixture is compacted and you need to add it. Keep a batch of tiles without a plasticizer on a vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until a white foam appears.

   Foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means that the air has already left the solution

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with a film and leave to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe cuttings = temporary shelving

4. The dried tile is easily removed from the mold, it is enough to bend the ends and shake out the product on a soft bedding. But if it doesn't work, lower the form for a few seconds in hot water- the mold will expand and the tile will slide out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: do-it-yourself paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions

Laying paving slabs on your own will not be physically easy, so you should invite one or two assistants to work.

Necessary materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual tamper;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe / beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose for compacting the sand cushion;
• rake, broom;
• cement brand M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the tracks and make markings on the ground with pegs and cord. Please note that for normal drainage, you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the track by removing upper layer earth with grass and compacting the remaining soil. This can be done with a manual rammer, but it is better to rent a special vibrator. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Ways to create pillows for paving slabs

3. Lay the tile on top of the pillow in the direction away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. The width of the seams is regulated by plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tile into fragments to tightly fill the space between the borders. Align the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   Contrasting border makes the track more original

Video: laying paving slabs

We determine profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m 2 of homemade paving slabs is 55% cheaper than purchased. And if we take into account that the resource of forms is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, it is no longer profitable to create a business for the production of paving slabs, but it is worth making it for your own needs on your own.

Now you have everything necessary knowledge in order to successfully manufacture and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

This article describes in detail all the stages of how do-it-yourself paving stones are made. The instruction presented to your attention will help you understand the technological features this process. For ease of perception of information, the entire description is divided into several stages. After reading this article, you will learn about all types of paving stones that exist today.

Types of coverage

Garden paths are an important part of any landscape. It is customary to use paving stones to improve personal plots. It is also called This coating can be made of concrete, clay or stone.

concrete pavers

For the arrangement of private suburban areas, do-it-yourself manufacturing of such material, by the way, will significantly save the whole process. Concrete pavers like construction material for paving of sidewalks possesses excellent characteristics and differs in reasonable cost.

It is made from a special building mixture, the main element of which is concrete. In addition, plasticizers and coloring pigments are also introduced here. Such products are obtained in two ways: vibrocasting and vibrocompression.

Clinker

The basis of clinker is clay. To ennoble gardens, making such tiles with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. But this product differs in wear resistance, durability and higher service life.

Also, this material has frost resistance, which allows it to be used in various conditions. A huge variety of colors and shapes of clinker gives a wide opportunity for its application in landscape design. Such paving stones (you can master the manufacture of this material with your own hands) are in great demand.

A natural stone

Natural stone is traditional for paving stones. It is extremely wear-resistant and durable, which is its most important advantage. Such material is quite expensive, and price reduction can be achieved through the use of sandstone or siltstone.

According to the processing method, sawn, sawn-chopped or chipped paving stones are distinguished. Making this element with your own hands is within the power of almost every person, especially since this material is classic.

Forms for the production of paving stones

With great importance are the forms for the manufacture of this building element.

They can be:

• plastic;
• rubber;
• polyurethane.

Each of these three types has its own characteristics and technical specifications. For example, rubber molds can withstand up to 500 production cycles. They don't need to be steamed. In addition, no additional tooling is required for rubber molds.

Very often, paving stones with a relief surface are used for. To create such products, polyurethane molds are used. The building mixture hardens in them extremely quickly. It is very easy to remove finished products from these molds.

Since polyurethane is a high-strength material, there is practically no defect during the production process. Such forms perfectly withstand up to 100 cycles.

For the production of square, rectangular and non-standard tiles, plastic containers are used. Withstand these forms for paving stones with their own hands, the manufacture of a huge number of these elements. The process is designed for 250 production cycles. It is plastic containers that are most popular among consumers. Almost every hardware store presents such forms in a huge assortment. These containers may have a pattern or relief. On the finished product, it looks very advantageous.

If for some reason you are unable to purchase molds for the production of paving stones, try an alternative method. Take wooden boards, saw them and put together a box. You can also experiment with various plastic containers and scrap metal pipes. Just remember that all homemade forms require lubrication (machine oil, drying oil) before use.

vibrating table

So, you have decided to start making paving stones with your own hands. The step-by-step instruction involves the use of a special vibrating table, which is necessary for shaking concrete in forms. This method allows you to completely get rid of the formation of bubbles, which significantly increases the strength and durability of the product at the outlet. Of course, if you are not planning a mass then you can create the necessary vibration manually. Just tap the mallet on the table. I must say that this is quite inconvenient. Better make a vibrating table from the most common materials.

Stack three used tires on top of each other and fasten with self-tapping screws. Attach any electric motor to an old countertop. To generate vibration, it is necessary to shift the center of rotation of the motor. Put a small blank on the shaft. Turn the table over with the motor down, lowering it into a makeshift well of tires. Secure the tabletop with self-tapping screws to avoid possible displacement due to vibration. This is the most primitive way to automate the process. If you want to start mass production of tiles, purchase a do-it-yourself paving machine.

Mixture for pouring into molds

For pouring into molds, you need to prepare a solution consisting of cement, sand and water. Of course, the building mixture may be different, but in any case, these components must be present. In order for the paving stones to be strong, the proportion of cement must be at least ¼ of the total mass, and the proportion of sand - ¾. Water must be poured so that the solution resembles thick sour cream in consistency. To increase strength, you can add fine gravel and a plasticizer.

Technological process

The technological process can be divided into several stages:

1. Paving stone production starts from
2. Product molding. Concrete is poured into prepared containers, placed on a vibrating table for 45 seconds. Building mix carefully rubbed in forms, then set them on pallets on top of each other, laying plastic sheets. There should be no more than 15 such layers.
3. Products must be allowed to dry well, while not allowing even the slightest shift of the forms. As a rule, the duration of this stage is up to three days.
4. The turn of demolition comes. These are peculiar water procedures for paving stones, lasting no more than a couple of minutes. Forms with a dried solution are kept in a bath and then knocked out on a table.
5. The finished tile cannot be used immediately after production. After stripping, the paving stones are placed on pallets and kept for at least 4 weeks at positive temperatures. The first 2 weeks of the product must be moistened with water to prevent cracking. After 4 weeks, the paving stones can be painted.

After knocking out the tiles, the molds must be prepared for subsequent use - the plastic is easily cleaned from the remnants of the solution. Then the molds should be well treated with a 7% solution. of hydrochloric acid. This washing makes it easy to remove the products in the future.

Conclusion

This do-it-yourself paving technology makes it possible to obtain aesthetically attractive tiles that have all the properties inherent in an industrial-scale material.

Fashion for pavers is steadily gaining momentum. It is not only beautiful, but also very practical. Stops only the high cost of goods. Do-it-yourself paving stones can be made at home, and it's easy to do. The technology is simple, the tool will require a minimum.

The manufacture of paving slabs can be done with your own hands using special forms, technologies and tools.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the entire technical base for future production. You will need:

• molds for pouring;
• concrete mixer;
• spatula or rule;
• canopy.

For the production of paving stones, molds are needed.

Form is the main element. At the moment, in trade organizations you can purchase finished products made of plastic, silicone or pressed rubber. Ready-made molds for the production of paving stones are good, but often the design of the future product does not suit the potential user. On a personal site, you don’t always want to have standard products or materials. More often there is a desire to do something more unique than using standard elements. In this case, it will be useful to make author's forms. This is not as difficult to do as it might seem at first glance. The most simple form made from wooden planks. It can be an ordinary rectangle, which will subsequently be filled with concrete. Get ordinary bricks. But they can also be given a certain attractiveness, since embossing is applied to the concrete surface using a pre-prepared form.

Many car owners use car mats for embossing: a tread tightly pressed to the surface of the concrete solution will leave an imprint. A drawing applied using a special blank looks more elegant. You can make it from wire rod, bending it into bizarre shapes and fixing it by welding. Get a kind of stamp for reusable use. It could be a leaf company logo or something more original.

The basis of high-quality tiles is its composition

The more accurately you select the composition for the manufacture of paving stones, the better the product will turn out. You will need to stock up on cement (grade 500), coarse river sand, dyes and reinforcing elements (pieces of reinforcement, wire, pipe cuts and welded meshes). It is desirable to prepare the composition in a concrete mixer. But this is subject to availability. a large number forms.

If there is a lack of forms, then you can prepare the mixture in a small container, using an electric drill with a special nozzle for mixing.

It is very important to observe the proportions of sand, cement and water. Take the first two components in a ratio of 3: 1, add enough water so that the solution is thick, but at the same time amenable to compaction.

Back to index

Let's start making paving stones

Making paving stones with your own hands is carried out in several stages. First you need to lay out the forms on a flat horizontal surface. Carefully knead the concrete and fill the forms first to half their depth. Then the mass is compacted, and reinforcing elements are placed inside it. This will give the pavers greater strength and will slightly reduce the amount of cement used. On top of the reinforcement, the forms are filled to the upper cut, after which the concrete is compacted with a trowel and leveled with a rule. The blank for paving stones is almost ready: now the surface can be embossed or a coloring composition can be applied to it. Special pigments for this stage can be purchased from the distribution network. Often they are added directly to the mixture, but this is not recommended for several reasons:

• the color of such paving stones is unsaturated;
• when using a large amount of dye, the cost of paving stones increases significantly;
• if the production will be carried out in several cycles (kneading), then you will need to calculate the amount of dye very accurately in order to achieve a uniform shade of all manufactured elements.

It will be easier if you rub the dye into the surface with a soft paint brush. So it will be easier for you to keep the whole process under control.

It is not necessary to give the paving stones a certain shade. You can simply rub dry cement into the surface. This process is popularly referred to as ironing. Dry cement will give the product greater strength, and the surface will be smoother.

The finished paving stone should dry well under a canopy. It must not be allowed to dry in direct sunlight, otherwise the surface will harden very quickly, and the moisture evaporated from the inside will lead to the appearance of small cracks. It is necessary to dry the paving stones at a moderate temperature or ensure that it dries simultaneously throughout the entire volume. It must either be moistened periodically, or dried under a film. After 3-4 days, the film can be removed and the paving stones can be laid out of the molds.

Paving stone (bridge stone) is a hard surface for paving roads, sidewalks and playgrounds. It is a flattened block of a rectangular or other geometric shape of a certain size, made of natural stone, concrete, clay, rubber or a polymer sand mixture, produced by an industrial method. However last years making handmade paving stones has become very popular.

Natural stone (granite, marble, basalt, etc.) is pricked and sawn on special equipment. Clay (clinker) paving stones require firing in special ovens, which is impossible at home. Rubber and polymer sand tiles are also not easy to make without special equipment. It is much easier to make concrete pavers with your own hands, which does not require complex technology or the use of expensive mechanisms.

Necessary tools and materials

Making paving stones on your own at home is possible only using casting technology. This requires the following equipment:

1. Concrete mixer (you can use an iron trough).

2. Vibrating table for uniform shrinkage of the solution and air removal.

3. form for the ebb, on which it depends how the blind area will look. Manufacturers offer matrices of 3 types from different materials:

• rubber - available with a matte and glossy base, very easy to use, designed for 500 castings;
• plastic is used to make stone with a different pattern or relief, the number of pouring cycles is 250;
• polyurethane are great for creating a surface with small decor details, they can withstand up to 100 fills.

If there is no opportunity or desire to spend money on a purchase (they sell in sets of 100 pieces at a price of 4,000 to 20,000 rubles), you can use what is at hand. It is possible to manufacture a paving stone frame from wooden bars, folded into a certain shape according to the given dimensions and fastened with self-tapping screws. Plastic food containers or pieces may also work for this purpose. metal pipes cut to the desired configuration.

4. Trowel for leveling the base of the stone.

5. Rubber mallet for removing the finished product from the mold.

In addition to the listed equipment, the technology for the production of paving stones involves the use of:

• cement M500;
• sand with fineness modulus up to 2 mm;
• crushed stone screening or fine gravel can be added to increase the strength of the product, the parameters are recommended: fraction - not larger than 5 mm, strength grade not less than M1000, frost resistance from F200;
• plasticizer;
• dye, if you decide to get a bridge stone not gray, but some other color, use inorganic oxide pigments.

Production sequence

Process self-manufacturing paving stones at home includes the following steps:

1. Solution preparation. 2 types of concrete mixture are made for two layers, which are alternately poured into the mold. The first, textured, provides frost resistance, water absorption and low abrasion of the stone. Such a mixture is made according to the recipe (based on 1 m 3 of the finished solution): cement - 500 kg, sand and 1 m 3 of crushed stone (gravel crumbs) in a ratio of 1: 2, about 3 kg of plasticizer, which is pre-soaked in warm water and give it some time to brew. If coloring is necessary, the dye is poured into the concrete mixer first, after all the other components. The second layer gives the stone blocks strength and thickness. The mixture for it is prepared in the ratio: cement - 250 kg, sand and 1 m 3 screenings of crushed stone (gravel crumbs) - a ratio of 1: 2, about 2.5 kg of plasticizer. Water is added so much that the mixture is sufficiently viscous, but in no case liquid. All components are thoroughly mixed in a concrete mixer for 3-4 minutes.
2. Filling and shaping. A textured layer of concrete mixture, no more than 2 cm thick, is evenly poured into the matrices prepared in advance and placed on the vibrating table. To compact the concrete mass and release excess air from it, the vibrator is turned on for 30 seconds. After the form is filled to the brim with the second layer of the solution, the vibrating table is started for 40 seconds. Upon completion of shrinkage, the surface is smoothed with a trowel, the sagging areas are supplemented with the required amount of the mixture. Forms filled in this way are removed from the vibrating table and placed on pallets to dry.
   

   Drying takes place in natural conditions and lasts, depending on the weather, from 48 to 72 hours.

3. Disbandment. Forms are immersed in water bath, the temperature of which is gradually raised to 70 ° C and maintained for about 2 minutes. The bridge stone is then knocked out of the matrix with a rubber mallet.
4. The exposure of finished products lasts up to 28 days at +18–20 °C. The first half of this period, it is recommended to spray the surface of the paving stones with water so that cracks do not appear on it.

Price