High-quality laying of paving slabs with your own hands. Laying paving slabs - how to make the yard and garden comfortable and beautiful? Preparing for laying trot tiles with your own hands
Sidewalk modules have gained popularity among the population of the country. Properly selected instructions and installation paving slabs with their own hands, will reduce the cost of landscaping the local area and be proud of the builder's own achievements.
Tile pavement - an affordable, inexpensive material for decorating the area around country house, driveways. Thanks to the options:
- frost resistance;
- practicality;
- resistance to mechanical stress;
- durability;
- other.
The construction market presents a choice of tiles according to color scheme, texture, shape, size. picking up type of coverage in accordance with the general design of the site, create a single harmonious ensemble that will turn Vacation home and the courtyard around it into a complete picture.
The advantage of tiles is durability in summer heat, this material is not:
- softens;
- fade;
- deformed;
- releases harmful substances.
The sand between the joints allows rainwater to freely seep into the ground, leaving no puddles and creating comfort in the area.
How to choose paving modules
When considering a beautification project suburban area mark zones of different load:
- car parking area;
- access part of the territory;
- the area around the tile house;
- footpaths;
- recreation area.
Based on the estimate obtained, the thickness of the fragments, the amount of material for the sand and gravel cushion are selected. Color laying tiles harmonize or contrast with the background of the house. If it is difficult to determine the color, it is better to opt for light gray tones - this shade is considered universal.
The quality of the future tiles plays a special role. Therefore, it is better to purchase or order the coverage of the local area through the online market from manufacturers, on the basis of building materials. Read testimonials from former clients, look at certificates, talk to neighbors and friends who have already encountered this problem.
- Do not save on the purchase of tiles, because this material serves for many years and looks attractive - the areas that are lined with this tile are located in plain sight.
- It looks prettier, easier to lay due to the irregular shape - errors are not so noticeable. It is more difficult to lay square and rectangular fragments, here the deviation from geometric correctness is immediately evident!
- If tiles are selected different shades, you can spend time, but lay out patterns or drawings.
- Based on the draft, you should carefully calculate the number of tiles, the volume of sand, gravel or cement. You need to mark the area using a rope and pegs. Making such devices is simple and fast, so there will be no delays.
- During tiling, a gap of 2 mm remains between the two segments. If the tiles do not fit snugly against the fragments of buildings, file them with a “grinder” using a stone circle.
Installation instructions
Properly selected types of paving slabs - excellent addition to the design solutions of the site, emphasize the relief of the territory and the originality of the created landscape. In order for this beauty to please the eyes of owners and guests, you should remember some installation rules on your own and competent instructions will help with this.
Necessary materials and tools
- Depending on the use of the future site, tiles or concrete pad.
- When choosing a coating, you need to consider external design, operational parameters of products. A car parking area is more durable than a footpath.
- Before starting work, you should carefully study the technical process, choose a tool that is convenient to use with your hands.
- Before buying tiles for the site, they draw up a project for the location of sites and paths for the correct calculation of the amount of material.
- During the installation of the tiles, a slope is made for the unhindered flow of water from the paths to the lawn. The slope is 5mm per 1m.
Laying process
When laying tiles by hand, do not miss important points and do everything right. First step preparation of the base or cushion is considered. The beauty of the future site and the duration of the operation of the tile directly depend on the degree of quality of the preparatory work.
We select excess soil from those areas where the tiles are laid with our own hands. If these areas are planned for laying engineering networks, lay the pipes in advance. Crushed stone and gravel are chosen in small or medium fractions. If a footpath is laid, the pillow is made up to 15 cm deep. For parking - deepen the base to 20 cm. These dimensions will be obtained after careful compaction of the poured material. Next, we prepare a pillow of sand with our own hands, laid on a layer of gravel.
Step-by-step video of preparing the base for paving slabs:
However, there are situations when the soil on the site is complex, there are many irregularities and so on. Instructions on how to fix this moment are presented below.
After sealing the first layer cover the area with geotextile so that in the future the sand does not mix with rubble. Then the sand is compacted: a thick layer is not made here, 5 cm is enough. Check the horizontalness of the sites using the building level. Identified inaccuracies are additionally sprinkled with sand and again compacted.
If the soil in the work area is characterized as weak, the geotextile is laid in 2 layers: before and after the gravel. This once again enhances the strength of the base.
The base is ready, now it remains to prepare the mixture on which the tile will lie. This mixture is prepared in the ratio: 1 part cement and 5 parts sand. Spread the composition on top the last pillow with a layer of 5 cm and compact.
Now proceed to, during which follows constantly check the levelness of the site with a building level.
Video: laying paving slabs with your own hands
The process of laying the tiles is completed, now it remains to cover the surface of the laid coating with fine sand and wipe it along the joints between the modules.
Paving slab repair
Care for such a coating: you can overcast, wash even with the use of chemicals. If one or more tile fragments are damaged, it is easy to repair the coating:
Get the corrupted fragments;
Align the sand cushion;
Lay new tiles;
Fill the seams with new sand.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I want to show one video on how not to lay paving slabs:
In order for paving slabs to serve for a long time, do not work in wet weather, do not use other backfill other than sand, and do not hammer cement into the seams. After the laying work is completed, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the site, crushed stone is poured and a curb stone is installed. For strength, it is poured with cement. The construction of the curb will prevent the modules from spreading and loosening. A cushion made of a 2.5 cm mortar, under which there is a reinforced concrete base, will give the site special strength.
Many owners of suburban households prefer to paving paths in the local area using paving slabs. As a result, they receive not only a practical and durable coating, but also a real decoration of their site. Proper styling paving slabs - a guarantee that the coating will cope with the tasks assigned to it. The opinion that hired craftsmen who know the styling features well will do the job better than the owner himself is sometimes erroneous. If you understand the technology of laying tiles, then it is easy to cope with the work yourself.
Scope of paving slabs
Paving slabs are used for facing pavement pedestrian and park paths, platforms and sidewalks. It can also be used to strengthen lawns, slopes and lining flower beds.
Mechanical properties of the material
Stages of planning, design and marking of the site
Do-it-yourself paving slab laying begins with the choice of material and site layout.
Plot layout
When planning the local area, you should not fall into two extremes - do without paving at all or perform a continuous coating throughout the entire territory. The best option- paths from the gate to the house and to the main buildings on the site and a platform for a car. In this case, you can avoid mud in rainy weather and at the same time save lawns and perennials.
Running a little ahead, technically, first of all, it is necessary to mark the area planned for laying with the help of “beacons”. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the corners of the territory and observe both transverse and longitudinal slopes.
Important! The slopes must be determined before the start of the preparatory work.
Choice of coating material
Now you need to decide on the choice of coverage for the tracks. Paving stones are considered the best option because the cost of laying paving slabs is quite acceptable, moreover, the work is easy to do on your own. The following advantages also speak in favor of this option:
- the possibility of replacing individual elements and dismantling the coating;
- the tile is frost-resistant and does not float in the heat, like asphalt;
- unpretentious in care;
- moisture easily seeps into the seams between the elements.
It is important to decide on the type of paving stones. So, there are factory vibropressed and vibrocast elements on sale. Decide on the thickness, color and shape of the products. But if you want to save a little and have free time and desire, then the tiles can be made by hand.
There are several types of tiles on the market. Each of them has its own characteristics, scope of use and requirements for the base:
- Vibrocast products up to 4 cm thick suitable for blind areas and walking paths. The price of such items is the lowest. Moreover, some owners make such tiles on their own.
- Vibrocast elements up to 6 cm thick suitable for paving driveways and parking lots. The price of such a tile is average, if desired, it is made independently. A base of cement and sand is prepared for laying.
- Vibropressed tiles the most durable. Its thickness is 6-8 cm. It is used in places with heavy traffic and loads, it is manufactured only at the factory. Paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and a sand cushion.
Important! The type of soil on the site affects the choice of base for paving. On moving soils, a concrete base is arranged even under the blind area and sidewalks. With dense soils under the driveways, a cement-sand base is made.
Despite the fact that the paving slab laying technology is quite simple, pay attention to the following recommendations:
- When laying the coating on a concrete base, be sure to arrange a slope for rainwater runoff. You can use a longitudinal, transverse or transverse-longitudinal slope of the coating. The optimal slope is 1 cm per meter. As a result, water will not collect between the tile and the concrete base, which will protect the coating from swelling. In this case, a gap for water flow is made between the tiled floor and the curb.
- The width of the track is selected as a multiple of the dimensions of one coating element. Do not think that large-sized products fit faster. Due to their significant weight, they are more difficult to lift, move and level on the ground.
- All underground communications on the site are laid until the arrangement of paths and driveways. Otherwise, the coating will have to be dismantled. If some communications are planned to be carried out in the future, then at the place of their conduct under the path they lay plastic pipes(the section is chosen based on the size of the communications).
- To prevent grass from growing between the individual elements of the coating in the future, a layer of geotextile is laid in front of the foundation device.
- Laying tiles is carried out only on a dry base, so work is not carried out during and after rain.
- The base for the tile is carefully leveled. For the arrangement of the pillow, purified sand without impurities and clay is used.
- The size of the track is selected taking into account the selected elements of the coating. If you plan to make a pattern or ornament, then you should draw a diagram in advance and calculate the width of the coating, taking into account the seams. The circular way of laying products will require cutting some elements to the desired size.
At the preparation stage, it is worth considering the coating pattern. The sketch will allow you to get an idea of the future creation and calculate the required number of elements of a particular color and configuration. If paving slabs are laid by a master, then the price, of course, for paving with a pattern or ornament will be higher.
Advice! Most patterned layout options are obtained using rectangular paving stones.
Tile layout options
paving stone design
From traditional design solutions, three main layout options can be distinguished:
- Geometric, it's an application simple shapes in the design, such as line, square, circle and monotonous repeating elements. Similar solutions are presented in the layout diagrams.
- Chaotic layout - the elements are laid out in discord, so that it is impossible to trace at least any patterns. But sometimes they adhere to one rule so that neighboring elements do not repeat, or there are no more than two repetitions.
- Artistic laying of paving slabs is perhaps the most interesting and expensive option in classic solutions. As a rule, such decisions are of an author's nature, take into account the peculiarities of the location of objects on the site, emphasize them or vice versa transfer attention. This segment has both standard solutions and exclusive design solutions. The latter option may require the manufacture of paving slabs to order according to individual sizes and flowers.
And there is another option for modern design, this is an imitation of a 3D effect, creating the illusion of volume or violating the laws of geometry. Such an optical illusion effect is achieved by using the features of our vision and as a result we observe a stereoscopic, three-dimensional image.
And the latest fashion, this is the luminous paving slab tile
GOST, SNiP and TU for laying paving slabs
Before starting work, you must study and subsequently be guided by the following normative documents, they can also be downloaded for review:
- GOST 17608-91, from March 1, 2018, came out new document GOST 17608-2017;
- SNiP III-8-76
- SNiP III-10-75 (no longer valid, but we recommend that you familiarize yourself with it);
- Instructions VSN-1-94 / VSN-26-76;
Preparatory work and necessary tools
Before starting work, prepare the required materials and tools. For work you will need:
- borders;
- tile;
- sand;
- cement;
- water.
Also stock up on the following tools ( an exhaustive list is presented, you need to choose the necessary ones based on your situation):
- rammer, vibrating plate with pad or manual roller;
- bayonet and shovel;
- paving cutter;
- grinder with diamond discs;
- sieve;
- wheelbarrow;
- stretcher;
- level;
- broom;
- Master OK;
- a rule for leveling a sand embankment;
- rubber mallet;
- pegs;
- guides;
- kapron thread or leveling cord;
- hose for water supply.
Advice! If the tiles have to be cut, then you will need a grinder with a diamond wheel or for cutting on concrete.
Plot marking
According to the outlines of the future path, we drive in the pegs of the "beacons" and pull the nylon cord. Since the stretched thread is a guideline for determining the height of the paving, the tension is performed according to the level.
Foundation preparation
The base can be made from:
- sand;
- rubble and concrete.
The choice of the type of foundation is based on the purpose of the future track or site.
The foundation preparation process consists of several stages:
- filming upper layer turf and soil, remove the roots of plants and ram the bottom well;
- If there is a need, then we level the bed with gravel or gravel;
Important! If the excavation is not carried out, then the path will be above the level of the lawn. This is not very good, since the coating will be washed away by melt and rainwater.
- we fill the bed with a drainage layer 15-20 cm high - for footpaths and 40 cm - for driveways (gravel or crushed stone is taken for drainage);
- a layer of sand 2 cm high is poured over the rubble to level the base.
To prevent erosion of the base pad groundwater, geotextiles are laid under the drainage layer.
This completes the foundation work. Let's start styling street tiles and curbs. Step-by-step instruction on laying paving slabs with your own hands will help you do the job no worse than professional craftsmen:
Technology of laying paving slabs
Drainage and slope device
These measures are carried out so that water does not accumulate on the surface. Slopes should not be directed towards the foundation of nearby buildings. Most of rainwater is removed by slopes and the rest goes into the ground through the tile joints. Therefore, it is recommended to use gravel or crushed stone as the main bearing drainage layer.
Formation of the carrier layer
Depending on the purpose of the future coating, the base is formed either from sand, if the surface will be used as a pedestrian zone with low traffic, or from concrete for areas with high traffic and with problematic soils.
Important points:
- The height of the layer is formed depending on the expected load on the coating. Those. the higher the permeability, the higher the layer should be and, accordingly, more materials will be spent. With significant loads, the base is laid in stages in several layers.
- The carrier layer must be laid evenly, but taking into account natural or planned slopes.
- Each laid layer is necessarily rammed using a rammer, a vibrating plate or a hand roller.
Installation of curbs
There are options for laying paving with and without curbs. But when using a curb stone, the path is clearly marked and protected from sprawl. The border is laid after leveling the base on a concrete castle. It is also allowed to use a plastic tile border. The product is mounted flush with the paving surface or slightly above it. Since the tiles will shrink, it is recommended to lay the pavers 5 mm above the curb.
The device of sand or cement-sand layers
If crushed stone or sand is used as a carrier layer, then in the case of sand, an additional layer of sand is a continuation of the base. In the case of crushed stone, this layer is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, the following rules must be followed:
- it is necessary to set all the guide rails in advance, taking into account all the slopes and fix them firmly;
- the underlying layer is leveled using a rule so that it is approximately 10 mm above the level of the tile to be laid. This is necessary so that the tile remains at the planned level after leveling the surface of the coating and subsequent subsidence of sand or cement-sand mixture;
- to obtain a flat surface, the leveling rails must be removed and the remaining recesses filled with sand or a dry mixture.
In no case do not try to lay the tiles “by eye”, do not be lazy and pull a nylon cord around the entire perimeter of the surface to be laid. This will allow you to track the correct geometry of the laid material, tile joints and slopes. It is recommended to check the geometry of the seams every 2-3 rows.
Laying should start from the lowest point and move towards the highest. Or from what important element, for example the entrance to the house.
Alignment of tiles is allowed with a mallet or a vibrating plate if the tile is above the required level. Also, you can add dry mix or sand if it turned out to be lower. Based on GOST and SNiP, the surface is considered flat if for every 2 meters the height difference is no more than 5-10 mm.
To form an extension, the tile is sawn with a grinder with a diamond disc.
- Preparation of the base for laying paving. There are three types of bases:
- sand is poured between the curbs to a height of 5-6 cm, then the sandy layer is moistened and rammed, the tiles are laid out on wet sand;
- paving is laid on a cement-sand base, for its arrangement, a layer of sand 3 cm high is poured between the curbs, then a reinforcing mesh is laid and covered with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 4 to 1;
- laying on a concrete base, in this case the cake consists of the following layers: sand on compacted soil (10 cm), gravel (10 cm), reinforcing mesh, road mesh, concrete (12 cm), cement-sand composition (2 cm).
- Paving with paving slabs performed in accordance with the following rules:
- work is carried out from the lower point of coverage;
- the master is located on an already laid tile so as not to damage the prepared base;
- when laying in a circle, work is carried out from its center;
- elements are laid out not in rows, but in a diagonal direction, which facilitates horizontal alignment;
- the cord for leveling the first row is pulled along the width of the track;
- the horizontal is checked by the level after 3 rows;
- the tile is installed by tapping a mallet;
- if necessary, sand or a sand mixture is poured under the element;
- a gap of 3 mm is made between adjacent elements (crosses are usually used if there is no remote lock on the tiles).
- The grouting takes place in two stages. First, sand is poured onto the paving and scattered at the seams with a broom. After that, the seams are sprinkled with a cement-sand mixture (proportion 1 to 1). On sale there are ready-made mixes for seams. Then the path is abundantly sprayed with water.
Step-by-step technology for laying paving slabs on sand
 | Terrain assessment and marking. The site for laying paving slabs must necessarily have the necessary slope for the outflow of rain and melt water. The outflow of water, as a rule, is done towards the street. Laying of paving slabs will be carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Use a level to measure. |
 | Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil and remove the roots of plants over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk or site. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil. |
 | Sand filling. Pour sand into the prepared bed with a layer of 5-15 cm and carefully level its surface with a rake or a rule. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord. |
 | Moisturizing the base. With a minimum consumption of 10 liters per square meter Pour plenty of water over the entire base with a hose or watering can. |
 | Foundation compaction. To avoid subsidence of the base during further use of the sidewalk, carefully compact the sandy base with a manual rammer. |
 | |
 | Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, laying rows goes diagonally. The master moves forward, standing on his knees on the already laid tile, so as not to damage the even base. When laying in a circle, the movement starts from the center of the circle. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles with a level, not forgetting the required slope. With the help of a massive rubber mallet, drown the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and some additional sand. |
 | Filling gaps. Fill the gaps between the tiles with dry mix or sifted sand. To do this, pour sand onto the sidewalk and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. Remove excess sand or dry mix with a gentle stream of water. Make sure that the sand does not wash out of the cracks between the tiles. |
 | Surface cleaning. Remove dirt and residues of the mixture from the surface of the pavement with a brush. |
Step-by-step technology for laying on crushed stone with a dry mix
Laying on a dry mix crushed stone base is recommended for areas with moderate traffic and light vehicle parking areas.
 | Terrain assessment and marking. Laying of paving slabs is carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large pitches are divided into lanes using pegs and leveling cords. |
 | Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk. Remove plant roots to avoid future sprouting. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil. |
 | Backfilling of rubble. Fill the prepared bed with rubble with a layer of 10-20 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord. |
| Compaction of crushed stone by hand. | |
 | . Dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant curbs on the M100 mortar, and then pour them with concrete and fill with sand. |
 | Backfilling cement-sand mixture. Pour a mixture of cement and sand over the rubble with a layer of 5-10 cm. If necessary, install reinforcing mesh. Carefully level the cement-sand mixture. |
 | Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, laying rows goes diagonally. The master moves forward, standing on his knees on the already laid tile, so as not to damage the even base. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles with a level, not forgetting the required slope. With the help of a massive rubber mallet, drown the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and dry mix. |
 | Pavement dampening and gap filling. Plentifully, pour plenty of water on the surface of the sidewalk. After the surface of the track has completely dried, fill all the gaps between the tiles with a dry mixture. Spill the track one more time, while paying attention that the filler from the gaps between the tiles does not wash out. |
 | Surface cleaning. Remove excess mortar from the pavement surface to prevent it from setting. Make sure all joints are completely filled with mortar and the pavement is clear of grout. The cover is ready for use. |
Step-by-step laying of paving slabs on a concrete base
 | Terrain assessment and marking. For the correct outflow of rain and melt water, paving slabs are laid from the zero line - the lowest section of the site according to the plan. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large pitches are divided into lanes using pegs and leveling cords. |
| Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sidewalk being constructed. Remove plant roots to avoid future sprouting. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil. |
| Backfilling of rubble. Fill the prepared bed with rubble with a layer of 10-15 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord. |
| Compaction of crushed stone. | |
 | Formwork installation. Formwork boards, more than 4 cm thick, install along the edges of the future site or sidewalk. Fasten the boards with stakes driven in at a distance of 60-100 cm from each other. |
 | Pouring concrete. Concrete is poured in a layer of 5-15 cm. To improve the strength characteristics, reinforcement is made with a road mesh. To do this, first concrete is laid with a layer of 3 cm, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it, then concrete is poured to the required height. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the concrete base in winter or with a large laying area, it is necessary to leave the so-called expansion joints of 0.5 cm every 3 meters. |
 | Leveling the concrete surface. Carefully level the surface of the concrete, taking into account the level of the base and the required slope. |
 | . Dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant curbs on the M100 mortar, and then pour them with concrete and fill with sand. |
 | Laying tiles. Moisten the concrete surface and lay the tiles on a 1-3 cm layer of cement-sand screed. |
 | Filling expansion joints. To protect against cracking, seal the expansion joints with an elastic filler. |
 | Filling gaps between tiles. Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, making sure that the mortar does not get on the front side of the stones. Remove excess grout from the tile surface immediately. The coating will be ready for use in 48 hours. |
Installation cost and price of works per m2
The order of prices for laying paving slabs is given in the table below, these are average-weighted prices for the market. The table shows the work both for m 2 and for running meter in rubles at the rate of 60 rubles. for $. Depending on the type of work. As well as the cost of related and additional work.
| Name of works | Unit rev. | Price, rub. |
|
m 2 | from 1800 rub. |
|
Laying paving slabs on a turnkey basis, taking into account materials
|
m 2 | from 1600 rub. |
| Paving with granite paving stones and laying the foundation from a dry cement-sand mixture, taking into account the cost of the necessary materials (the price depends on the complexity of the laying ornament. The price does not include granite paving stones) | m 2 | 2100 rub. |
|
Laying paving slabs, the cost of work without materials
|
m 2 | from 650 rubles |
|
Laying paving slabs on the finished base |
||
|---|---|---|
| Laying paving slabs on the finished base | m 2 | 450 rub. |
| Paving with granite paving stones on the finished base | m 2 | 950 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on concrete | m 2 | 450 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on mortar | m 2 | 550 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on the sand | m 2 | 500 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs under the car | m 2 | 2250 rub. |
|
Curb stone installation |
||
| Turnkey curb stone installation with material | p.m. | 450 rub. |
| Installation of a curb stone without materials | p.m. | 200 rub. |
| Installation of a garden border | PCS. | 250 rub. |
| Road curb installation | PCS. | 400 rub. |
|
Preparation of the base for paving slabs |
||
| Foundation device made of crushed limestone, layer thickness 100 mm | m 2 | 100 rub. |
| Concrete base with road mesh reinforcement, layer thickness 150 mm. M-200 (without materials) | m 2 | 580 rub. |
| Concrete base device h = 100 mm with reinforcement (without materials) | ||
How to lay paving slabs? This question has a modern sound, as the arrangement of tracks with its help is gaining impressive popularity. It is posted not only because it is fashionable. This is facilitated by the beautiful appearance, and practicality, and ease of installation. The modern construction industry makes it possible to choose a material from a wide range of products that differ in shape, color, size. However, it should be borne in mind that the tile is still different in quality, and therefore you should not use the services of dubious sellers - such a product will not last long.
The essence of the material
At its core, paving slabs are a high-strength tile block designed for street laying when forming sidewalks, paths, and playgrounds. It is not for nothing that it is also called paving stones, as it resembles a stone coating in appearance. Laying street tiles allows you to get rid of such procedures as asphalting or concreting.
The main advantages of such a coating are ease of installation and operation, the possibility of repair, high strength and wear resistance, resistance to sunlight, heat, precipitation, temperature changes and frost resistance. Its decorative effect is especially noted, since the variety of shapes and colors make it possible to create various ornaments and even drawings on the ground.
Paving slabs can be made from various materials. The most widespread are concrete products formed by a special technology with the addition of pigments. Less often (taking into account the increased cost) tiles made of natural stone, baked clay with the creation of an original texture, as well as rubber-based tiles are used.
You can make concrete tiles yourself. To do this, as in the factory version, one of 2 methods is used: vibrocasting and vibrocompression. In the first case, the form is filled with a concrete solution with compaction, after which it is subjected to vibration for a specified time, and then dried in natural conditions. The second method is more complicated, since it involves combining vibration with compression of the workpiece using a press, that is, vibration is performed under pressure, which provides a more monolithic structure of the product.
In general, the choice of paving slabs is carried out according to the following parameters: dimensions, thickness, shape, color, surface topography. Smooth tiles are not placed on the sidewalk to prevent slipping of the feet. A certain relief is created on its surface, which is also capable of playing a decorating role. The relief pattern is considered an important parameter in the selection of products. It can be slightly noticeable, that is, in this case, the tile just has a rough surface. When forming a certain design, preference is sometimes given to a pronounced relief in the form of an ornament or pattern.
The shape of paving slabs, even factory-made, can be very different: square, rectangle, polygon, roundness, etc. The following forms are recognized as the most popular: paving stones (rectangle), honeycomb (hexagon), wave, gzhelka, flower, scales, clover, fleece.
Required Tools
When laying paving slabs with your own hands, you will need the following tool:
- grinder or angle grinder;
- tamper;
- Master OK;
- putty knife;
- shovel;
- scoop;
- mallet;
- a hammer;
- hacksaw;
- hacksaw for metal;
- jigsaw;
- construction level;
- metal ruler;
- square;
- protractor;
- roulette;
- hose nozzle.
Laying rules
Paths and platforms on the site will please the eye for a long time if the issue of how to properly lay paving slabs is resolved. The event itself, although it takes a lot of time, is carried out quite simply, and therefore everything can be done independently. Certain rules for laying paving slabs will help in this.
In general, the entire installation process can be divided into several milestones:
- development of laying scheme;
- preparatory work;
- directly laying tiles;
- filling tile joints;
- installation of curbs.
It should be noted that event planning is very importance. At this stage, a laying scheme is developed, namely, the shape of the track, the pattern on the surface, color solution. Already at this stage, it is important to accurately calculate the need for specific elements. It should be borne in mind that if there is a shortage of tiles, there will certainly be problems with the spread of sizes in different batches of goods and with a color tint. Everything must be purchased in 1 entry.
When designing tiled masonry, it must be taken into account that such an element of arrangement is striking, so it must be in harmony with the style of everything. landscape design. The choice of element dimensions must also take into account the load on the surface being laid out, in particular, the possibility of collision with vehicles or the rolling of heavy carts.
The question of how to lay paving slabs is related to the dimensions of the site, location on the site, and the purpose of the coating. There are several ways to lay paving slabs, which provide a different visual perception. Most often, traditional laying patterns are used: brick (ordinary), column, herringbone, chess. Such masonry forms regular geometric shapes and can be carried out in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal direction, as well as in a combined way. At the same time, you can satisfy your imagination and ensure styling non-traditional methods: in a circle, wave and other fancy options.
In order to lay paving slabs with your own hands, it should be remembered that it is impossible to lay out the surface only from solid elements. You will definitely have to cut the bricks, and for this, without having the skill, you may have to ruin more than one tile. At the same time, the amount of cutting required increases with the choice of a diagonal laying system, especially with an unconventional pattern. Cutting tiles is done with a special knife or a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete.
The correct formation of the coating implies the satisfaction of the following conditions:
- elements are placed in recesses, and protrusion above the ground surface should not exceed 3.5-4.5 cm;
- tiles are laid only on carefully compacted dense soil;
- the surface must be flat;
- should be provided good drainage(gutter), excluding the appearance of puddles on the laid paving stones.
Preparatory stage
The solution to the question of how to properly lay paving slabs is largely determined by the careful preparation of the area where the process will be carried out. On the preparatory stage the following main activities are carried out:
- Digging a hole. The work begins with the removal of the top layer of soil, which helps to solve 2 problems at once: to level the work site and create the desired recess for laying tiles. As a rule, the soil is removed to a depth of about 19-22 cm for footpaths and 28-32 cm in case of a possible collision with vehicles.
- Soil compaction. Over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe dug recess, it is necessary to carefully compact the soil. This condition is especially important when solving the problem of how to lay paving slabs on sand. In this case, it is recommended to soak the bottom of the recess well from a hose terminated with a sprayer.
In preparation working area consideration should be given to the need for drainage. Most often, it is provided by forming a general slope of the entire site (approximately 3-4 º per meter).
Zone restriction
An obligatory element of a sidewalk or paving slab is a side limiter in the form of a curb. In its absence, the extreme tiles will move over time under load and moisture. It is best to use a ready-made concrete curb for this purpose. You can make it with your own hands by pouring concrete into the formwork or using bricks, which are then plastered.
Installation of curb plates is carried out in this order. A trench is dug around the entire perimeter, which is 5-10 cm larger than the width of the curb. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion 6-8 cm thick is poured with careful compaction. Plates are installed on top of the pillow, which are aligned with each other and in a vertical position. To exclude their displacement during the work, fixation is provided with the help of pegs. To fix the limiter, the prepared trench is filled with concrete mortar.
Foundation preparation
Paving slabs are laid on a prepared base - a pillow. Its main tasks are to level the surface and prevent subsidence of individual elements. It is made of sand and gravel in several layers.
The first layer is sand 5-8 cm thick. The next layer is provided with crushed stone, and it is designed to redistribute loads over the entire area. Its thickness is 14-18 cm. Additional filling of crushed stone with sand allows you to get rid of voids. If in the first layer of the cushion there are no special requirements for the quality of sand, then the outer layer is formed from fine sand. After that, the entire surface is moistened and carefully compacted to create a flat area with the necessary slope. Finally, it is recommended to fix the pillow by pouring a thin layer of a mixture of sand and dry cement.
The laying of paving slabs is carried out without haste and in the direction "away from you", which is important to avoid disturbing the even surface of the pillow. The elements are laid down in a certain order corresponding to the selected scheme (drawing). A gap of 1.5-2.5 mm is left between them, and to form one of its widths, wedges made of wood or plastic are used throughout the site.
The tile is deepened into the sand layer by about half its thickness. Alignment along the plane is carried out using a mallet and wooden block. As it is laid, evenness is checked with a level. First, all solid elements lie on the pillow. At the final stage, cutting of the tiles is provided. To do this, it is applied to the installation site, where the cutting line is carefully marked. All elements are cut in fact.
The laying of paving slabs is completed by sealing the seams. Their shift at this stage is excluded by filling the gaps with a dry mixture of sand and cement powder. After filling, water is sprayed over the entire surface of the sidewalk, as a result of which the cement fastens the individual elements together. Before the solution is completely dry, the fixing wedges are removed. The procedure is carried out several times (3-4 times) - for better filling of the seams. Excess mass is removed without waiting for complete curing. At decorative design a pigment of the desired shade can be added to this mixture.
The durability of paths or paving slabs depends on the correct preparation of the working area and the laying of elements. Such work can be done with your own hands, but taking into account the recommendations of specialists. High-quality tile laying will provide practicality and a beautiful appearance that will delight the owner of the site for a long time.
Paving slabs - reliable, quality material, which compares favorably with its direct competitors - asphalt and pavers - ease of installation, dismantling, environmental friendliness and price.
A variety of installation options and a wide range of paving slabs will allow you to design the site to your taste, fully preserving its individuality through the use of various patterns and color schemes. High-quality laying of paving slabs largely determines not only the architectural appearance of the site, but also the durability of paved surfaces. The laying technology in a small area is not particularly difficult, therefore, having familiarized yourself with the progress of work and having prepared everything necessary materials, you can safely proceed to self-laying.
What tools and materials will be needed for masonry
Trowel, metal or wooden stakes, cord, building level, rubber mallet, wooden mallet, watering hose with diffuser, rake, broom, profile, manual tamper, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20, 20-50 or gravel, cement M400 , M500 or dry plaster mixture, geotextiles, paving slabs for paths 50-60 mm thick, for parking lots - 70-80, curb stone.
Paving slab laying technology step by step
Planning
At this stage, you should decide on the future site for laying paving slabs with your own hands and create its drawing plan. Choose from the existing range desired views curly paving elements, we select the laying scheme and color mosaic. We apply the dimensions of the plot to the created plan-drawing and, based on this, calculate required amount paving slabs and the volume of materials for the base: sand, crushed stone or gravel, cement.
Marking paths and playgrounds
With the help of a tape measure, wooden or metal pegs, a cord or construction twine, we mark the paths and the area for laying tiles. Be sure to walk around the marked area to check the convenience of location and use. We make appropriate adjustments if necessary.
Foundation preparation
It is a carefully prepared base that is a guarantee of the quality of laying paving slabs, so this stage of work should be approached with special attention. A well-made base will not allow the track or platform to sag over time, thereby ensuring durability for the coating.
First of all, we remove the old coating, if it was, and remove the sod to a depth of 15-20 cm. We make sure that there are no roots or flying seeds of plants. Although water can seep into cracks, it is still best to plan for water flow. If the soil is very clay, it is desirable to arrange drainage in the deepest part of the trench. In order for water to flow to the edges, we make transverse and longitudinal slopes. Regardless of whether the tile is laid on liquid solution, dry mix or sand, a crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as a base. To strengthen the base, in some cases, a sand-gravel mixture can also be made concrete screed.
First of all, at the same level and at the same height, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel. On a compacted base, we build an intermediate layer of sand, in a compacted state, the thickness of which should be 3-5 cm and be such that the paving slabs rise from the desired coating height by about 1 cm before compacting. Geotextiles can be laid between the layer of crushed stone and sand, which will provide free flow of water, but at the same time will not allow sand to wake up in a layer of rubble, making the base more durable and durable. In non-rocky soil without the arrival of vehicles, it is permissible to backfill the covered surface with slightly moistened coarse sand 10-15 cm thick, without the use of crushed stone. The layer of sand is richly wetted with water. Ramming on a sunny day is done after about two to three hours, and on a cloudy day the next day.
As the top laying layer, you can use a ready-made dry mix or a self-prepared cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. We fill the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm. To make it easier to maintain the same thickness throughout the area, you can use tube guides. With a rake, evenly distribute the mixture over the marked area. We make a screed with a channel to a flat surface.
Laying tiles
Tiles should be laid away from you so as not to disturb the prepared surface. Laying should preferably be done diagonally, laying each new tile in such a way that it adjoins the previous one as closely as possible, which will help to avoid increasing the thickness of the joints. A gap between the tiles of 1-2 mm for subsequent filling with a dry mix or sand is quite enough to create a durable and reliable coating. We tamp the laid tiles with a wooden mallet. If the tile does not lie quite evenly, gently place sand under it with a trowel and level it again with a rammer. After laying, the protruding paving elements are leveled with a rubber mallet to the building level.
If the planned paths and platforms have uneven shapes or curly elements are used, the tiles will have to be cut, but this should only be done after laying the entire whole tile. Paving slabs are cut with a special knife or an ordinary grinder with a concrete disc. Before cutting, we must apply the tile to the future installation site and draw a line along which we will cut off the excess parts. The installation of a pedestrian curb will help to give the site or path an accurate geometric shape and evenly fill the unfinished areas with sawn-to-shape tiles. To install a border along the edges of a tiled platform along a stretched cord, we dig a trench required size and depth so that the top of the tile is higher than the top of the curb by the height of the chamfer. We expose the border to the liquid solution M100. We spill the sides of the curb with a solution of M100 and fill it with sand.
Having laid the tile, we check the site for bulges and irregularities. Having eliminated the defects, we sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and moisten the mixture well in the gaps from a hose with a sprayer. If the mixture in the seams has sagged a lot, pour a little more mixture into the gaps between the paving slabs. This is very important point, since sand properly distributed over the joints will take on the loads that fall on the surfaces of adjacent tiles, making the coating harder and more reliable. The sand that is used to prepare the dry mix for filling the gaps between the slabs must be clean, without organic impurities and salts that can provoke the appearance of vegetation. It is advisable to walk along the paved path no earlier than 2-3 days after laying the tiles.
Like any other coating, paving slabs require appropriate care. To make it pleasing to the eye, it should be cleaned regularly. Gray tiles are less whimsical to care for, but colored tiles will have to be washed from time to time. AT winter time metal tools cannot be used to clean snow and ice from tiles. Metal crowbars and shovels can damage the glossy surface of the tile. To prevent erosion of the tile surface, it is strictly forbidden to sprinkle the paths with salt-containing abrasive mixtures. You can replace them with clean river sand. Also, paving slabs are not friendly with varnishes, paints and other chemicals.
How to lay paving slabs: laying methods
How the paths and platforms laid out with paving slabs on the site will look depends solely on your imagination and skill, because even the same elements can be used in various variations.
In the process of ennobling a site near a country house or a summer residence, responsible owners cannot do without the organization of paths, areas in front of the house or in the depths of the garden, intended for summer holidays or car parking. The easiest way, of course, is to roll them into asphalt or concrete, but these materials by no means add aesthetics and exclusivity to the site. Therefore, in recent times, most of the owners of estates stop at paving slabs.
It is quite possible, but it will take a lot of time, so it is better to do this work with an assistant. The process should be carried out strictly in stages, and each of the technological steps should be performed carefully and slowly.
Tools and materials for work
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary for this - working equipment and materials.
- Of the tools you will need:
- Shovels - bayonet and shovel for excavation.
— Rake for leveling bulk building materials.
- Wooden stakes or pins from pieces of reinforcement, as well as twine (cord) for marking the territory.
- Rubber mallet for leveling tiles and borders.
- Building level and tape measure.
- Brush or broom for spreading sand over the laid tiles.
— Rammer manual or mechanical, depending on the size of the improved area.
- A long, even pipe or guides for leveling the sand, if the tiles will be laid without a cement-sand mixture.
- A grinder with a disc for cutting stone. You can’t do without it in cases where you have to cut paving blocks.
- From the materials for the work you need to purchase:
a) The paving slab. It can be made using different technologies and from different materials. Accordingly, its characteristics are somewhat different. Some basic properties different types paving slabs - in the attached table:
| Performance | Polymer tiles | Concrete vibrocast | Concrete vibropressed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Average density in kg/m³ | 1650-1800 | 2320-2400 | 2200-2400 |
| Mass water absorption | 0.15 | 4-4,5 | 5,5-6,5 |
| Compressive strength, MPa | 17-18 | 40-50 | 40 |
| Bending strength, MPa | 17-25 | 6-7 | 5-5,5 |
| Frost resistance, cycles | Over 500 | 300-400 | 200-300 |
| Abrasion, g / sq. cm | 0,05-0,1 | 0,3-0,4 | 0,5-0,7 |
In addition, when buying paving slabs, it is necessary to take into account other points that are important for the reliability and aesthetics of future paths and sites. For example, for a site that will not experience heavy loads, it is quite suitable, having a thickness of up to 60 mm. If it is assumed that a car will drive into the area to be paved, then it is necessary to choose paving stones with a thickness of 60 or more millimeters.
At the same time, of course, the owners must decide on the configuration of the tile, its colors, etc. different types and shades of blocks allow laying out mosaic drawings, therefore, if there is a desire not to be limited to simple “gray” paving, then you should think in advance about the pattern and, accordingly, the number of tiles of a particular color and shape. It is possible that the table with some popular models of paving slabs below will help with this:
| Tiles in masonry | product name | Dimensions in mm | Weight in kg | Quantity, pcs. in 1 m² | Single tile view | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| L | B | H | |||||
| 3.F.6 "Wave" | 240 | 120 | 60 | 3.6 | 40 | ||
| 3.F.8 "Wave" | 240 | 120 | 80 | 4.66 | 40 | ||
| 1.P.4 "Rectangle" | 197 | 97 | 40 | 1.9 | 50 | ||
| 1.P.6 "Rectangle" | 197 | 97 | 40 | 1.9 | 50 | ||
| 1.P.8 "Rectangle" | 197 | 97 | 40 | 1.9 | 50 | ||
| 1.K.6 "Square" | 197 | 197 | 60 | 5.43 | 25 | ||
| 1.K.6 "Corner" | 197 | 197/97 | 60 | 4.05 | 34 | ||
L- length, AT — width, H-height
What else do you need to pay attention to Special attention when choosing a tile other than the above characteristics? There are criteria for evaluating paving blocks that have been practically tested:
- The quality of a tile can be determined without looking at the characteristics by hitting one block against another - if a dull sound is heard, then too much water has been added to the mixture for making paving stones. If the sound upon impact turns out to be ringing, then the tile is made according to the technology and is of high quality.
- If you liked paving stones, which have a very bright color, but its cost is quite low, then, most likely, low-quality coloring pigments were used, which, firstly, are unstable in themselves, and secondly, they significantly reduce the strength qualities of the tile.
It is very important to buy tiles from the same production batch, because otherwise the blocks may differ not only in size and color, but also in the composition of the mixture from which they were made.
Like all Construction Materials, paving slabs must be purchased with a "reserve", based on 15% more than the area of the proposed paving. Spare blocks will be needed in case of a random fight, marriage, damage and inevitable waste during cutting.
b) Borders for fencing a paved area.
in) Geotextile, the size of which must exceed the laying area by 200 ÷ 250 mm on each side, so that it is located on the walls of the recesses for laying layers.
G) Materials for laying litterlayers — sand, gravel or crushed stone, cement. Their number is calculated depending on the area to be covered, the number, type and expected thickness of the backfill layers.
e) Paint can bright color. It is convenient for them to do preliminary markup without any effort. The paint can be replaced with lime, which is scattered, marking the edges of the future path or platform.
e) Reinforcing bars for site concreting. It is far from always needed - it will be required only if the base for the masonry needs to be strengthened.
Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to marking work on the site.
Prices for paving slabs
paving slabs
Carrying out the marking of the territory
The first thing to do is to determine and mark out the area where the platform or path that needs to be paved will be located. For the preliminary stage, you will need a tape measure and a spray can of bright color paint. Measurements must be started from the house, gate, fence or other building, to which the tiled area will adjoin.
It all starts with marking... The required distance along the length and width is measured from the building, while marks are made in the form of dots or lines with paint. If the path is covered with tiles, then several more measurements are taken along its direction in order to maintain the specified width. It is recommended that the area parameters be adjusted to the size of the tile, that is, it is best to set dimensions that are multiples of the tile parameters so that it has to be cut as little as possible.
Having made a preliminary marking, which will set the direction or determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, you can proceed to the exact marking with the installation of pegs and pulling the cords.
In any case, all measurements and drawing lines start from one specific reference point, to which the further location of all other landmarks is tied.
Let's assume that the corner of the house is taken as a reference point. In this case, near it and to the width of the track or platform, as well as at their end, pegs are hammered onto which the twine is pulled, limiting the place where further work will be carried out.
When marking the main area of \u200b\u200bthe path or resting place, one must not forget that curbs will have to support the construction of all layers, for which it is also necessary to provide a place on one or both sides of the laid paving slabs.
1 - pegs;
2 - twine;
3 - soil after soil removal;
4 - backfilling with sand.
Preliminary site preparation
The preparation of the site is carried out in different ways, depending on its purpose, since paving slabs are laid out not only for paths and places for recreation, but also for parking lots that require higher strength. Therefore, site preparation and laying of layers may vary.
In any case, whatever the site is intended for, after determining its exact location, go to preparatory work, which consists in digging a relatively shallow pit. Its depth will depend on the materials of the laid layers and their thickness. For work, you will need a bayonet and shovel shovel, as well as a wheelbarrow for transporting cut soil.
The top layer of soil must be removed to a thickness of up to 150 ÷ 200 mm, together with the roots of all plants located on this site. This fertile soil should not be taken outside the site - it can be used for arranging
If additional reinforcement is necessary for the construction of the site, then the pit is deepened to 400 ÷ 500 mm.
The site freed from the soil should be fairly flat, it would be nice to walk along it with a hand rammer to compact the top loosened soil. If serious depressions have formed on it during the excavation of the soil, they must be sprinkled with soil and additionally compacted these places, bringing the entire surface to the same level.
These work are carried out in the same way for laying tiles on a wide variety of sites or paths, but further preparation work can vary greatly.
First option
First of all, it is worth considering how the bedding layers are laid for areas that will not be exposed to these are paths, recreation areas or pedestrian areas in front of the house, blind areas around it.
In this case, the following materials are laid in the prepared pit on the soil surface - geotextiles, crushed stone or gravel, sand and a cement-sand mixture. It should be noted that sometimes paving slabs are laid simply on a compacted layer of sand.
Following this scheme, the backfill layers must be laid as follows:
- Geotextiles are laid on the ground, which will prevent vegetation from growing through the laid layers and paving slabs. In addition, it in a certain way performs a kind of reinforcing function.
- Above is a layer of gravel or crushed stone, which is poured with a slight elevation at the center of the site or paths - this must be done so that the water does not linger on the paved surface, but flows towards the curbs. Then the gravel is leveled and rolled, but the shape of the sloping "hill" is preserved. The compacted layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm.
Compaction of gravel "cushion" with a vibrating plate - After the gravel is compacted, the site around the entire perimeter or along the future path is fenced with curbs.
The curbs enclosing the site are installed between it and the vertical edge of the ground located along the perimeter of the area (or along the path). Curb blocks are fixed on, laid on a compacted pillow of crushed stone or gravel. The evenness of the curbs is measured by level, and if necessary, corrected with a rubber mallet.
Enclosing blocks can also be placed on top of a sand bank. In any case, the trench for their installation should have such a depth that after laying the tiles, the curb rises above it by the level of the paved area by 50 ÷ 60% of its height.
- Further, gravel is poured layer of sand spread over the surface with a rake, well moistened, and then compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of the sand layer should be from 50 to 100 mm.
You can tamp the sand with a manual tamper, a roller or a special tamping machine - this will depend on the size of the area being prepared.
Ramming cement-sand mixture - The next step is preparing a sand-cement mixture and spreading it on top of the sand, then moistening and also compacting. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer should be 20 ÷ 40 mm.
The second preparation option is for heavy loads
This preparation option is carried out if the site is intended for parking. It is clear that for such a purpose a stronger and more reliable base is required so that the surface does not sag over time. This is exactly the option when the pit should have a depth of 400-500 mm.
- In this case, a backfill of sand is made on the prepared and compacted soil. It is moistened and compacted, and when finished, the sand layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm. To accurately determine the thickness of the layers, their value can be marked in advance on the walls of the pit. To do this, the height is measured with a tape measure and marked with paint from a spray can through a thin tube, around the entire perimeter of the pit.
- In the same way, the next layer is laid, consisting of gravel or an average fraction of crushed stone. It is also leveled and compacted, and in the compacted state should be at least 100 ÷ 150 mm. This "cushion" will serve as a reliable base for the next layer.
- To strengthen the foundation for paving stones, a reinforcing metal grating with cells of 80 × 80 or 100 × 100 mm is laid on the gravel layer. The finished grating can be replaced with metal bars of reinforcement 6 ÷ 8 mm thick, which are laid in the form of a grate and fastened with a wire twist.
- Guide beacons are installed on the grate. They are raised to the height of the screed thickness, which should be about 100 ÷ 120 mm. The beacons are set at the building level and fixed on the slides from the concrete solution.
- While the mortar dries, curbs are installed around the site, and if they are not provided or they are planned to be installed later, then for the screed, at its height, a formwork of bricks or boards is installed.
- After the solution under the beacons has set, concrete can be poured onto the site, consisting of sand and cement, in a ratio of 3: 1. The solution is distributed over the surface, thicker than the beacons, and then, with the help of a rule that is led along the guides, as if on rails, it is leveled to their level. It is advisable to fill the entire site in one go. If you have to postpone the filling of part of the site until tomorrow, then it is recommended to cover the already filled area with plastic wrap. The screed is left to set and harden - this period will last from 7 to 12 days. In order for the screed to be more durable, it must be moistened daily with water for 3 ÷ 5 days, starting from the day after pouring, and then covered with plastic wrap.
- When the screed is ready, borders are installed on the concrete solution along its perimeter. This option is suitable if the enclosing elements have a small height. The solution under the curbs should also grab, and only after that you can move on to the next layer.
- Temporary beacons 20 ÷ 40 mm high are installed on a flat fenced concreted surface - this is the height that the next dry layer, consisting of sand and cement, should have. It is kneaded in advance and poured onto a concrete platform, and then distributed with a shovel and rake, and after that it is leveled by the rule according to the beacons.
Third option - when laying tiles on the sand
This option is most often chosen when apparently because it is less labor intensive than the two described above. In this method, paving is carried out on a sand cushion.
1 - soil;
2 - curbs;
3 - concrete solution;
4 - crushed stone;
5 - sand;
6 - paving stones.
- If this laying option is chosen, then the pit should have a depth of 200 ÷ 250 mm, but along its perimeter or along the edges of the path a trench is dug 100 ÷ 150 mm deeper than the main pit. This trench will be necessary for the installation of curbs - preparations for the main work begin with them.
- Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into the trench and compacted, with a layer of 50 mm.
- A thick concrete solution is laid out on top of it.
- Curbs are exposed and leveled on it. Having installed them, you do not need to wait until the concrete grabs - you can immediately proceed to the next operation. The height of the curb should be calculated in such a way that after laying the tiles, it rises above it by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
- At the bottom of the entire pit, between the curbs, crushed stone backfill is made, which is leveled and compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of this layer should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. The crushed stone layer serves as a reinforcing component of the structure, as well as its drainage, which will prevent water from stagnating under the tiles.
- Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, wetted, compacted, and then its surface is leveled according to the sand installed deep into the beacon guides. The thickness of the sand layer should also be 100 ÷ 120 mm.
It should be noted that the leveling of compacted sand over large areas is best done as the tiles are laid, so as not to do this work twice. When part of the site is paved with paving stones, it will be possible to level the entire surface, and do further work standing on the already paved section of the site, that is. carry out the installation of tiles from yourself.
Paving slabs
It must be said right away that tiles are laid equally on a sand and sand-cement cushion. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared.
Half of the success is a site very carefully prepared for paving - Before you start laying tiles on a prepared surface, you need to understand the design of the docking of blocks of different shapes and sizes. This "training process" can be carried out on a normal flat surface, such as a workbench. and will consist of two ÷ three types or sizes of tiles, then in order not to get confused, it is best to draw up a diagram that you can keep next to you during work.
- In the event that there is a stop line for the first row on the site, for example, the wall of a house, then you can start laying from it. It will be easier to mount the tiles, starting from the installed curb, as it has even surfaces and is already horizontally leveled.
- The first row of masonry is carried out along a straight line, and it should consist of solid tiles. If figured tiles are laid, then its cut-off parts, which will make the outer rows even, are laid after the installation of paving stones is completed on the main area of the site.
- The tile, laid on a sand or combined cushion, is well pressed against its surface and tapped with a rubber mallet.
Continuation of the laying of curly tiles: the edges - "castles" must match There is always a small gap between individual paving blocks, from 3 to 5 mm. If you look at the high-quality tiles carefully, you can see that this gap will be provided by special profile protrusions that are vertically located on the side faces.
- Next, comes the second row, provided for by the scheme. If paving stones of different sizes and curly edges are chosen, then the joints between the two rows will become a kind of lock that will not allow one tile to retreat from the other.
The third and subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.
- If there are obstacles in the way of masonry, for example, a canopy pipe or a sewer hatch, whole tiles are installed around them, and laying out the halves must also be left at the end of the work, when the whole tile is laid on the entire site.
Areas around incoming interference are temporarily left - they can be permanently tiled later - Reaching up to before zhdepriemnik under the drainpipe (if paving is done around the basement of the building), first check installation and deepening of the storm water inlet itself with a grate, and connecting a discharge pipe to it. Then this entire structure is covered with a layer of sand with an appropriate seal, and then paving slabs are laid on top.
- Having laid out a certain area, the paving stones are immediately “swept”, that is, the gaps between the individual tiles are filled with a mixture of sifted dry sand and cement (the usual proportion for this is 5:1 or even 6:1). The dry mixture is poured onto the laid tile, and then the entire surface is swept with a brush or broom with a little pressure, thus filling all the gaps between the tiles with this composition.
- When the entire surface is covered, you can begin to fit and install the cutting parts. The remaining empty spaces are carefully measured, then a cut line is marked on the tile, along which a cut is made using a grinder with a set circle on the stone. The remaining empty areas of the site are filled with finished fragments, and then the same backfilling and sweeping is carried out using a dry sand-cement mixture.
- After the laying of paving slabs is completed, it is recommended to carefully compact it by walking over it with a vibrating plate, which will level the entire surface to one level and make the paved area more durable.
- If a path that has turns and bends is lined with paving slabs, then there may be wider gaps between the tiles in the turning areas, but they should not exceed 7 ÷ 8 mm. If such a gap is not enough, then cut out fragments of the desired configuration or purchase a special tile, which is designed for turns and is made taking into account the required angle.
The process of laying paving slabs is quite laborious, but the result will not only please the eye, but also add comfort while walking along garden plot In any weather. Having made an effort and listening to the recommendations, a caring owner will be quite able to pave the paths and sites of the site on his own, but this will require patience and, of course, desire.
And in conclusion - a video, which, we hope, will also be useful in the initial development of the technology of laying paving slabs:
Video: a small visual lesson on laying paving slabs