"Made of pieces" - this is how the mosaic has been called since the time of its invention. A variety of materials used for manufacturing, their durability, unpretentiousness in relation to maintenance, the possibility of restoration provide a high demand for this cladding technique. No less popular is the production of mosaic tiles.

Modern technologies and materials make it possible to push the boundaries of the use of mosaics from the creation of traditional panels to the lining of pools, fountains, columns, arched structures and other surfaces of complex geometric shapes. Ceramic mosaic traditionally holds the lead, however, glass, metal, decorative and finishing stones are gradually gaining popularity, occupying their niche in the market.

Mosaic types

The manufacture of mosaic tiles involves the use various materials. So the consumer gets the opportunity to choose between types, each of which has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

ceramic

• Satisfies the most demanding aesthetic taste.
• Medium strength.
• Well-established production technology.
• High price.

glass

• High aesthetics.
• Wide range of colors.
• Resistant to high and low temperatures.
• Use in the aquatic environment.
• Insufficient strength.
• Big weight.

plastic or plastic

• Attractive appearance.
• Light weight.
• Low cost.
• Easy production.

The service life of ceramic and glass mosaics is practically unlimited, which is confirmed by the excellent condition of archaeological finds: dishes, tiles, mosaic paintings.

As for the plastic. The amount of plastic waste in the modern world makes environmentalists sound the alarm and support all possible ways of their disposal and recycling. Of course, not everyone can build a processing plant plastic bottles, but to master and launch the production of mosaic tiles in at home made of plastic - a completely feasible dream.

Mosaic tile production

When choosing suitable material for the manufacture of mosaic tiles, you can stop at glass or acrylic resins. Buying components for production today is not difficult - stores offer a good range of chemicals and fillers.

Making or purchasing equipment does not require knowledge high technology and high financial costs. The process itself requires compliance with manufacturing technology, is characterized by low energy costs, and in terms of the complexity of development it is quite accessible to any competent person.

Raw material

The choice of ingredients for the manufacture of mosaic tiles - binders, fillers, dyes - is dictated by the requirements for the strength and density of the final product. The standard bonding material is acrylic resin. It is a liquid acrylic resin that hardens when a special catalyst is added.

The liquid consistency of the resin allows the use of various fillers:

• sandy;
• marble chips;
• granite chips;
• colored gravel of small fractions.

Both organic and inorganic dyes are used to color the mixture. The color of the finished tile is determined by the choice of the base of the appropriate pigment. The most common: iron oxide, chromium compounds, lead, zinc, titanium.

Equipment

The manufacturing technology of mosaic tiles is so simple that it does not require a huge room, sophisticated equipment and an oven for baking tiles. The sizes and shapes for the production of mosaic tiles by pouring are selected according to the size requirements of the tiles.

The process of dosing components requires special attention. Required accurate scales and graduated containers that will allow you to accurately measure the weight and volume of ingredients.

Containers for storing raw materials are selected based on their shelf life and planned production volumes. Tools for preparing the mixture, pouring and molding it (spoons, a set of spatulas, tubes, etc.) use glass or plastic.

Manufacturing process

The use of such simple tools for the manufacture of acrylic plastic mosaics speaks of the simplicity of the production process itself.

The most difficult stage is the preparation of the mixture. Dosing accuracy of each component is important to obtain a high quality product. Place in a mixing container required amount filler, add the measured weight of the dye and fill with acrylic resin. After mixing, the finished mixture is distributed into molds. Hardening and drying of the tiles occurs naturally without exposure to high temperatures. After being removed from the moulds, the finished product is subject to finishing to give it a perfect shape and appearance.

If other source materials are used, modification may be required. technological process. The described technology is intended for the manufacture of small volumes. With their growth, additional equipment for the production of mosaic tiles will be required, which will allow introducing elements of mechanization and automation into the production process.

Mosaic set features

Unlike ancient times, when each piece of the mosaic was laid out by hand, modern manufacturers in the factory assemble matrices ready for laying from pieces. Each matrix is ​​a piece of mosaic glued onto a sheet of special paper (kraft paper) or mesh, arranged in a certain order. Matrices (modules) designed to create complex drawings or paintings are available in small sizes, which simplifies the process of fitting when laying. The usual module size is 30x30 cm.

Finished modules are attached to the prepared surface using a special adhesive for mosaics. Such glue provides adhesion strength of the mosaic tile to the surface of at least 30 MPa.

It should be remembered that the grid is always located on the installation side, and the front side of the matrix is ​​​​usually covered with a layer of paper, which is soaked with water after installation and removed. Although the modular system greatly simplifies installation, on average, depending on the size of the mosaic, the work takes from several days to several weeks.

Unlike laying ordinary ceramic tiles, working with mosaics requires special skills and careful surface preparation from the master. The basis under a mosaic has to be strong and equal, with a smooth surface. When mounting on plastered surfaces, use special impregnations, which increase adhesion, and when plastering - reinforcing additives that increase the strength of the mosaic and further prevent the formation of cracks.

If the mosaic is placed in rooms with high humidity or in direct contact with water, preliminary waterproofing of the surface is required. There are enough big choice professional materials for waterproofing pools, fountains, showers and bathrooms.

Preliminary marking of the base plays important role in preparation for laying modules, especially on curved surfaces. Taking into account the complexity of the mosaic coating process and its duration, it is necessary to choose adhesive mixtures with a long (at least 30-60 minutes) shelf life after preparation. The volume of the mixture for one-time preparation is selected by the master based on work experience, taking into account the complexity of the surface.

Mosaic panel set technique

The technique of creating artistic mosaic paintings (panels) has been known since antiquity. AT modern design it came with minor adjustments and improvements. In the old days, craftsmen selected the sizes and colors of mosaic pieces directly at the place where the panel was created and immediately laid the selected piece in a layer of plaster on the base. This work required high skill and artistic talent, since it is very difficult to imagine the whole picture and correctly select each piece, and any mistake would cause the picture to be distorted.

• Today, two main methods of creating mosaic canvases are used: the technique of direct and reverse set. When using the first method (direct set), the composition or its fragments are assembled on a base (glass fiber or other materials are used), laying out the pieces of the mosaic face up, which makes it easy to control the results and make adjustments. Upon completion of the assembly, the finished fragments, together with the base, are attached to the surface intended for installing the panel.
• The second method (reverse set) involves laying the mosaic pieces face down. To do this, use a mirror image of the picture, covered with tracing paper, on which, in accordance with the coloring, a mosaic is laid out. With the advent of self-adhesive film, this technology has become even more simplified. After completion of the assembly, pouring and fixing on the base is carried out. If necessary, carry out additional processing and grinding.
• One of the most simple technologies considered to be geometric. Using a simple selection of colors, the master, or the customer himself, creates a grid pattern - indicating the colors, in accordance with which the tile is laid out on the grid matrix, and then fixed to the surface.

Creating more complex mosaic patterns using photographs and paintings requires the use of specialized computer programs (Mosaic 2005, Mosaic Deluxe) or an image editor photoshop. They process images, calculate the number and size of tiles, taking into account the actual dimensions, which is especially important for the correct visual perception of the finished panel, and select the color scheme.

Technology for making mosaic tiles at home

What will be needed in the manufacturing process:

• A set of containers for storing ingredients.
• Containers of different volumes for the manufacture of the mixture.
• Devices and tools for pouring the mixture into molds.
• Forms for the manufacture of tiles of different sizes.
• Mesh for reinforcement.
• Matrices for installing tiles.
• Acrylic plastic and catalyst.
• Various fillers.

It is necessary to remember about the protection of the skin of the hands and carry out all work in protective gloves. In the manufacture of mosaic tiles, the following sequence of actions must be observed:

1. Weighing and dosing of components for the preparation of the mixture.
2. Preparation of molds for the manufacture of tiles for pouring the mixture.
3. Mixing components.
4. Pouring the finished working mixture into molds.
5. Extraction of finished tiles from the mold.
6. Finishing and polishing of tiles.
7. Formation of a pattern from tiles and laying out on matrices.

Acrylic plastic is the main component for production. Provides high ecological purity of finished products, UV resistance, antibacterial properties and is completely harmless to living organisms. Acrylic resin and hardener catalyst are free of styrene.

It is also possible to make mosaic tiles. It is enough to purchase or assemble a battle of tiles of different colors, bring them into line required dimensions and put them in the correct order.

Why choose a small tile for renovation?

The choice of mosaic tiles for interior decoration is largely determined by knowledge and understanding distinguishing features and the benefits of using this type of cladding. Consider some of the positive aspects of the use of mosaic coatings in order to make an informed and correct choice.

• Tiles sizes. The small size provides ample opportunities for the formation of complex patterns and their application even on curved areas of the surface, and also simplifies the procedure for replacing individual pieces in case of damage.
• Variety of colors and shades. The technological method or methods used for the production of mosaics allow a wide range of colors to be obtained, which distinguishes it from ordinary ceramic tiles. Picturesque drawings with subtle transitions of shades bring a pleasant revival to the interior and serve as the envy of guests.
• Target application. A wide variety of materials for mosaic coatings - glass, metal, ceramics, smalt, plastic - makes it possible to make a choice taking into account all the features and characteristics of the intended place of use of the mosaic. Good strength and wear resistance make it suitable for flooring, and zero water absorption glass mosaic allows the material to be used in rooms with high humidity and in direct contact with water.
• Installation and operation. Increased requirements for cleanliness and quality of surface preparation make it possible to lay tiles on a thin layer of adhesive and use it economically, which, given the high cost of the latter, can significantly save. The use of mosaics in the form of ready-made modules (matrices) facilitates the installation process, and the use of the above tips and recommendations will make it more efficient.

You can make mosaic tiles yourself at home, to do this, you will need readily available and inexpensive materials that can be purchased at hardware stores, and molds - which you can also make yourself. From the made mosaic tiles, you can collect countertops, mosaic panels, etc., which will give the interior a completely unusual look.

mosaic tiles

Decorative mosaic tiles are a great option for finishing bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools, saunas, as well as for exterior and interior decoration residential and public buildings, a wide variety of interiors. Strength, durability, impact resistance environment and amazing beauty, color saturation - these are the qualities that make the mosaic forever young and popular. To date, the mosaic is the most modern and stylish finishing material used in decoration.

Mosaic panels

It seemed that mosaic compositions were gone forever. But this lasted only until the 18th century, when the Russian scientist Lomonosov reinvented the technique of making colored glass. And immediately in Russia, a great many wall panels were created in the technique of Roman or Byzantine mosaics. Further more. In the Urals, as the extraction of stone expands, Russian mosaics appear. It further developed the ideas of the Florentine mosaic. Now not only marble and jasper are used, but also semi-precious gems - malachite, lapis lazuli, etc. In addition to smooth walls and arches, all kinds of architectural details (columns, pilasters) and decorative objects that have a complex shape and shaped surface began to be laid out with mosaics (vases, bowls, boxes). To create more expressive works, Russian mosaics used not just the color of the stone, but also its natural pattern.

Who first thought of creating mosaic panels is not known, but such panels can also be found in the ruins of Egypt, Ancient Greece and Rome. Creating a mosaic picture required painstaking manual work. That is why mosaic panels laid out from small pieces were considered the privilege of very rich people and persons of royal blood. With the help of mosaic panels, you can give the interior a completely unusual look. Panels in Greek and Roman styles are in great demand. Absolutely any idea can be realized in a panel: from paintings by great painters to a photograph of your beloved dog. The selected drawing is digitized, and then, using special programs, they create a diagram of the future panel, select the size of the mosaic elements and their color scheme. By using relatively large pieces when laying, you can create the effect of large, confident brush strokes. These panels are ideal for a living room, decorating walls or floors in a swimming pool, or to give an exclusive look to the facade of a building.

To convey subtle details, smooth color transitions, very small pieces are used, with which you can achieve the effect of the integrity of the mosaic panel. Made by a master, it will be difficult to distinguish it from a real picture. Such a mosaic can become a highlight of any interior; it does not require a long distance in order to fully appreciate its beauty.

A mosaic panel can be made as a central design element of the room, placing it on the entire wall, ceiling or floor, or to focus on other decor elements. In addition to their excellent decorative qualities, such artistic panels made using modern materials, form a surface with excellent operational characteristics. Mosaic paintings can be safely placed in bathrooms and shower rooms, baths, pools.

Just look at these amazing mosaic panels! A large number of paintings, most of them based on nature... these amazing mosaic tiles are able to surprise anyone who enters the bathroom for the first time. Some of the designs are three-dimensional, which creates an even stronger sense of an outside presence brought into the home. To convey subtle details, smooth color transitions, very small pieces are used, with which you can achieve the effect of the integrity of the mosaic panel.

Mosaic set features

Modern mosaics are assembled in the same place where they are produced. For precise drawings, the chips are molded into small molds or chipped by hand. In stores and salons, finished products come in the form of so-called matrices (modules). They are pieces of paper or mesh on which chips are glued in a strictly defined order. Matrices are more often made square (30x30 cm), less often - rectangular, with side sizes that are multiples of 30. Sometimes there are matrices of other shapes.

At the installation site, it remains only to connect the fragments and attach to the desired surface using a special (not tile!) Glue. It is important to keep in mind that the paper is glued to the front side of the chips, and the mesh is glued to the back. After installation, the grid remains under the chips forever, and the paper is moistened and removed. It will take a specialist to lay the mosaic from 2 days to 2 weeks (depending on the size and other features of the surface).

It is important to realize that the skills of a master tiler are of little use for laying mosaics. She is very capricious and does not forgive even small mistakes. It is extremely important to prepare a solid base with a smooth, even surface. Cement-sand plasters can only be used with adhesive and reinforcing additives, such as Collaseal or Fiberflex (INDEX, Italy). Then the layer that comes to naught during leveling (up to 0.5 mm) will not chip off, and subsequently cracks will not occur in the plaster. The base should be carefully marked, taking into account the position of the typesetting elements on curved surfaces and at the junctions. The goal is to reduce the number of chipped (cut) chips. Of course, you need to make sure that the matrices are glued to the base with the right side. At the same time, modules on paper are more suitable for convex surfaces, and modules on a grid are more suitable for concave surfaces. The adhesive is required to provide adhesion of at least 3 MPa and have a viability of at least 30 minutes for laying simple panels and more than 60 minutes for complex ones. It must be closed in an amount sufficient for one hour of the master's work. The area to be smeared should be no more than 1 m2 (for 9 mosaic matrices), if the pattern is simple and the surface is flat. In difficult cases, glue is usually applied under 2-4 matrices.

Finally, if the mosaic is used in a damp room, do not forget about the reliable waterproofing of the base. For swimming pools and bathrooms, there is a wide range of system materials (from SCHOMBURG, INDEX, VANDEX, etc.). Otherwise, after 3-5 years, the mosaic will begin to fall off along with pieces of the base.

Mosaic panel set technique

This is the most ancient type of mosaic technique. It was characteristic of Roman and Byzantine mosaics. It is the most difficult and time-consuming to perform.

There are two types of installation - direct and reverse dialing. In the first case, the image is laid out directly on the surface and fixed in the plaster layer. The second began to be used after the XVIII century. It is more simple to implement. The image is laid out on a tracing paper face down. After fixing the composition from the back side, its front part is finally processed, and sometimes polished. As a result, there is not just a mosaic effect in the usual sense, but an illusion of subdued brilliance and texture, not even of a stone, but of a tapestry or carpet. There are different technologies for creating a mosaic panel - from the simplest, geometric, to very complex, computer-assisted, allowing you to recreate a reproduction of any picture.

geometric technology is considered relatively easy: when creating a pattern, the mosaic does not need to be cut into smaller pieces. Compositions are obtained by simple selection of colors. Then the master manually lays out the desired ornament on the grid-matrix. Therefore, when ordering such a composition, the client can independently draw a grid, indicating the colors of the picture.

Reverse Mosaic Technique

The mosaic is glued to the paper base with a water-soluble wheat flour paste, the slow curing of which allows the mosaicist to make substitutions or adjustments. The drawing or sketch is applied to the correspondingly cut paper with the reverse side.

But more complex work are performed on the computer. The desired photo or picture is scanned and then the program divides the image into cells. Then a color scheme with different shades is selected, depending on the complexity of the pattern. Although there are some subtleties here - you need to consider from what distance the panel will look. How more sizes the future “drawing” and the larger its constituent elements, the greater should be the distance to it.

You can use the following programs Mosaic 2005, Mosaic Deluxe, as well as photoshop.

Technology for making mosaic tiles at home

To make mosaic tiles, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

1. Forms
2. Gloves
3. Container for mixing components
4. Fill tool
5. Matrix
6. Reinforcing mesh
7. Filler

This technology uses readily available and inexpensive materials that can be purchased at hardware stores.

The process of making mosaic tiles consists of seven main steps:

Stage 1. Preparing molds for pouring

Stage 2. Filler preparation for pouring

Stage 3. Preparation of the working mixture

Stage 4. Form Fill

Stage 5. Extract fills from shapes

Stage 6. Workpiece processing

Stage 7. Matrix set

We offer mosaic manufacturing technology and the base material for making mosaic tiles (mosaics) and cast stone - acrylic resin.

The acrylic resin (plastic) offered by us has a high biological indifference to biological objects, in other words, it is absolutely harmless to humans! Does not contain styrene! This plastic is successfully used even for medical purposes.

Mosaic is one of the oldest types of arts and crafts. The first examples of mosaics are known from Ancient Sumer, IV millennium BC, see fig. below. In our time, there are also many amateur mosaicists who create highly artistic compositions with their own hands, often from seemingly the most inappropriate materials.

Sumerian geometric mosaic

It should be immediately noted that independent production mosaics and laying mosaics with your own hands are things, in general, different. The manufacture of a mosaic involves the production of all its components - the base, the soil, the binder, the elements of the set, plus the development of a template pattern. By laying, we mean creating a composition from a factory-made kit, which includes everything you need.

Laying is more popular among amateurs who are not endowed with artistic abilities. Mosaic is an extremely labor-intensive form of art, so mosaic paintings based on ready-made scenes from a set cost tens and hundreds of times cheaper than the same panels made to order by a master. There is a huge variety of ready-made kits for sale. Some small firms, using computer technology, complete kits to order according to the drawing presented by the client. It costs a little more than a set of industrial production, but the uniqueness is guaranteed.

There is also a sufficient number of people who want to make a mosaic completely with their own hands. And not only for the sake of increasing personal reputation. Mastering mosaic techniques (and there are many of them) can lay the foundation for your own well-being. One of the author’s relatives, who worked in a supermarket for 22,000 rubles, having mastered 3 or 4 techniques, quickly went through some kind of master class for formality, received a “crust” from there (more precisely, a card) and now a month with a net income of 200,000 considers it not very successful. Although it is in a city with a population of one million, it is still in the provinces. Plus - no bosses, no shift schedule and work schedule, and the workload is three times less.

What is a mosaic?

Mosaic - a type-setting pattern of small solid elements, fixed with a binder, on a solid basis. Therefore, compositions from scraps of fabric (patchwork), straws, pencils, self-adhesive films, threads, etc. cannot be considered mosaics, these are applications. In the same way, beaded designs on fabric and leather are not mosaics, but embroidery. Although there is also a beaded mosaic, and we will talk about it.

Note: art historians tacitly imply that the mosaic is very durable. An oil painting without restoration lives 200-400 years, and the Sumerian mosaics have come down to us in their original form. Hence the unspoken condition - the materials for the mosaic must be strong and durable.

Unlike intarsia, inlay, stained glass, each element of the mosaic does not carry a separate semantic load; in fact, a mosaic is a pixel art. Its fragment is just a piece of something of a certain shape and color, and it is impossible to determine from it separately whether it is a part of a butterfly wing, a leaf of a tree, or a piece of schnitzel. And finally, the mosaic is made from non-metallic materials. Metal technologies - granulation, filigree, filigree - are fundamentally different from mosaic and require a separate discussion.

From the history of the mosaic

The Sumerians typed their mosaic patterns from tall narrow tetrahedral pyramids of baked clay, a kind of clay needles. They were pressed into the base of not yet hardened unbaked clay, and the ends were painted with ocher, natural bitumen, etc.

The next step was taken by the Greeks. They invented smalt, a very dense and viscous glass. Due to the high viscosity, the smalt could be chipped using a special technology (see below) without cracking. Depending on the method of smelting, smalt is obtained in the following types:

• Transparent - glass dyed in bulk with oxides of iron, chromium, cobalt, cadmium.
• Opal (deaf) - the same, but with the addition of tin dioxide or antimony monoxide; glass turns milky, opalescent.
• Spotted and sinewy - from glass of several shades by sintering fragments; most often fights and crumbs.
• Golden and silver - two layers of glass sintered into a "pie" with a metal foil between them.

Mosaic from Pella

The most valuable is artisanal smalt. It is precisely the instability of technology that gives it internal overflows of color, and the whole picture - a shimmering brilliance. The color range of smalt is unlimited, and the durability is millennia. For example, mosaics from the palace in the Macedonian capital of Pella (see Fig.) have survived to the present without any signs of dilapidation.

The Romans, having adopted the mosaic from the conquered Hellenes, appreciated it so highly that they called it opus musivum, i.e. a work dedicated to all the muses at once. Hence the modern name. The Latins also began to collect mosaics not only from smalt, but from square pieces of natural stone. This made it possible to make mosaic floors. The point here is not only that smalt is scratched by sand, but also that it is very slippery. Agree, in terms or a banquet hall-triclinium, this is completely useless.

Unfortunately, the artistic level of most Roman mosaics cannot be compared with Greek ones, see fig. below. The reason is the extreme laboriousness, which is why the mosaicists (mosaicist is an ignorant-amateurish expression) in Rome were mainly artists of a slave state. They, of course, had no time for such masterpieces as the Fayum portrait or the Pompeian Poetess.

Roman mosaics

Byzantine mosaic "Boy and Donkey"

The next step in the development of mosaic art was made by the successor of Rome, Byzantium. Before the onset of Islam, the streets had just not been paved with gold, and artists - free people could count on decent pay for their work, which gave rise to exceptionally expressive compositions that were included in the world treasury of art, see fig.

The Byzantines also made an important improvement in the technique of calculation: they began to gain background and extensive details of the image from intersecting arcs, see fig. left. When viewed from a certain distance, the drawing lost its "pixel" character and looked completely alive.

Fragment of a Byzantine mosaic

Byzantine mosaics are inseparably linked with Old Russian ones. Although smalt was very expensive (Byzantium strictly kept the state monopoly on its export), ancient Russian mosaics of world significance are known. But the Mongols completely destroyed it, and only foreign masters were occasionally engaged in the mosaic in Russia, reviving before M.V. Lomonosov.

During the Renaissance, mosaics returned to Italy. Top level she achieved mastery in Florence (see the figure below; the right fragment is a modern panel based on the Florentine technique). The Italians introduced perspective into the mosaic, which in ancient world did not know. In addition, they developed a binder composition (see below) that held the set to the stone much more firmly than before.

Florentine mosaics

Mosaic from beads

During the Rococo period, mosaics received an impetus from France. There began to be widely used for recruitment seashells, and since 1837 colored porcelain and faience beads, this is the so-called. mosaic Emo de Briare (Emaux de Briare), see Fig., by the name of the porcelain factory, which still exists. "Pixels" of a uniform shape and very small size made it possible to lay out a very accurate drawing with soft tints of halftones. And, more importantly, according to the French technique, small curvilinear surfaces could be decorated with mosaics.

Mosaic Emo de Briard

However, back in the middle of the 18th century, in 1750-70, Van Zelow's manufactory produced mosaic panels from beads using the reverse laying method (see below) on waxed paper with subsequent transfer to the base. The secret of this technology was lost after the death of the founder (it is not clear how they fixed the beads with wax without losing its adhesion to the binder), but today it has been revived on the basis of adhesive tape and silicone, see fig. on right.

Muslim mosaic

Muslim artists, under pain of impalement, were forbidden to depict anything alive. Instead, they brought the pattern to incredible sophistication. Muslims introduced new materials into the mosaic. First, the tiles, which we call tiles. Ceramic mosaic today is the most common and in demand. Secondly... eggshells. The shell mosaic technique is simple, we will tell you about it, and painted shell mosaics last for centuries, see fig.

Note: picture in fig. above was made in the period 1905-1915. M. S. Prokudin-Gorsky, a student of D. I. Mendeleev and one of the pioneers of color photography. His life and work is a separate topic, but it is noteworthy that in the process of creating a color image, a microscopic mosaic of starch grains (crystalline starch is transparent) was used, painted in the basic colors - red, blue, green. On fig. on the left - a photo portrait of Leo Tolstoy by Prokudin-Gorsky.

Russian mosaic

Before Catherine II, mosaics in Russia were made extremely rarely due to the high cost of material and work. M. V. Lomonosov, not only a brilliant scientist, but also an outstanding artist and poet, developed original technologies smalt smelting and founded a mosaic manufactory. Many of his works have survived; the Poltava battle entered the world fund, see fig. Unfortunately, after the death of Lomonosov, the mosaic business died out until the middle of the 19th century, when Nicholas I ordered the icons of Isaac to be transferred into mosaics.

Mosaic by M. V. Lomonosov "Poltava battle"

I had to attract Italians from the Vatican studio, and sent their own there to train. In 1851, the Mosaic Workshop of the Academy of Arts was opened, which still exists today. Many panels of outstanding merit came out of it, but the work on Isaac dragged on until the revolution, and after the revolution - to the present day.

Modernity

Artistically, modern mosaic widely uses the findings of pointillism, impressionism and different kind abstract modern trends in fine arts. Cubism seems to have been deliberately created to look like a mosaic. There is even a term - art nouveau mosaic (art nouveau, new art).

As for technology, porcelain stoneware immediately confidently entered the everyday life of mosaicists. They work with him the same as with smalt and tiles. Traditional mineral binders on the egg are increasingly being replaced by PVA and silicone adhesives. They are unlikely to hold out for millennia, but houses are now being built not for centuries.

Glued mosaics have an important advantage - maintainability, up to complete disassembly and assembly in a new place. If the Chinese bring their giant 3D printer to serial production, then a revolution of unprecedented proportions will take place in construction. And glued mosaics will organically fit into it as an exquisite way of decor, giving the dwelling a uniqueness.

Mosaic laying is necessary for both branded ready-made and home-made. Therefore, we will start technological topics with it, especially since this process is not complicated. In essence, a mosaic is laid out in a direct way in the same way as a tile.

By direct way image fragments are laid out face up / out. Mosaic on the floor is laid out, as a rule, in place. Panels on the walls are now often laid out on a fiberglass mesh, and then transferred into place; the image is more convenient to type in a horizontal position. Mosaic on the grid is assembled only on glue. Grouting is done after gluing the entire panel onto the base.

Note: laying on a grid for transferring to curved surfaces is unsuitable - when bent, the set cracks. The curved mosaic is laid out only in place.

Materials for direct glass and ceramic mosaics are ordinary tiled ones: mortar or glue, grout. For glued mosaics in the bathroom, you need to take silicone glue. Firstly, it is not only waterproof, but also waterproof; secondly, when frozen, it has the consistency of dense rubber. Both are important for a set of small fragments, often of an irregular shape. When laying ordinary tiles of a regular shape, the seams also hold the coating, but not in mosaics.

For the same reason, the surface of the base must be completely even and somewhat rough in the first place. Smoothing down a grinder with a bowl-shaped circle is not enough, sandblasting is also needed. Secondly, the base must be perfectly degreased; if greasy stains from old oil paint show through there, it is better to choose a different finishing method. And, finally, there should be no traces of rust, rubber, cement laitance, etc. on the base. At the end of the preparation, the base is treated with a deep penetration primer on concrete or stone.

Mosaic template gluing

Grout, especially if a set of glass and mirror pieces, is needed without sand, otherwise it will scratch the fragments. After the grout has set, its traces are removed from the face with a soft (flannel, calico, cotton, felt) damp rag without pressure; the same, but completely new and clean, polished after complete curing of the binder and grout.

Reverse

Artistic mosaic on curvilinear surfaces of small size is laid out most often in the reverse way. For him, first of all, a pattern-pattern in a mirror image is needed; when laying in a direct way, with some experience, you can work by eye.

The original drawing is scanned or photographed, in Photoshop it is brought to the desired size, broken into A4 pieces and printed in color, this will greatly facilitate the calculation. The margins of the fragments are cut off on both sides, forming the upper right corner, and the following sheets are glued to the lower left, see fig. When printing on a conventional home printer of any type, the contours along the edges of the sheets will not converge by 1-2 mm, so you need to make sure that the discrepancy does not exceed half the size of the set element.

Note: it is better to first lay out the sheets on a dry one, reduce the contours, and, without disassembling the sheets, glue them with stationery glue-mazilka.

Next, the drawing is covered with a transparent self-adhesive film with butt sheets, adhesive side up. The protective film is removed gradually (the adhesive layer loses its stickiness in air after 3-10 minutes) and the elements of the set are laid face down on it according to the figure; pressed immediately. Each element must be put immediately exactly in place, this requires a sure hand.

Note: old way reverse set - the pattern is covered with ordinary flour paste; through its thin layer, the pattern shines through. But materials do not hold well on the paste, and many do not stick to them at all. Many sources recommend the use of some latex-based adhesives, but specific brands of such cannot be found.

The second way, not so expensive - the drawing is lined on a plastic film (so that the floor or table does not get wet) and covered in parts egg white. According to the layout, the reverse set on the protein is dried for a day or two. Glass and ceramics on the squirrel do not hold well, so the transfer of the set to the base must be done carefully, and the panels must be broken into pieces the size of a book, which is not always possible.

Then the base is prepared, covered with a binder and the set is transferred to it; both - in parts. When typing on self-adhesive, one part of it can be up to A3 in size. For transfer, the set is cut with a mounting knife into parts of an acceptable size along the intervals between the fragments. Each part is gently but firmly pressed against the base so that the parts of the set are pressed into the binder.

Note: a roller or any method of pressing that creates a side force must not be used. It is necessary to press with the palm of your hand through a pad of microporous rubber with a thickness of 12 mm or more, or with a flat board covered with felt.

After the binder has completely solidified (at least 3 days for silicone and at least 20 days for the old mortar, see below), the self-adhesive is removed, and the remaining adhesive tape is removed with a cotton swab moistened ethyl alcohol or thinner for nitrolac (646, 647). If the set was on a paste or protein, the paper is soaked with a sponge abundantly soaked in water, and the remaining glue is washed off with a medium damp sponge. Grouting and polishing is done as with direct dialing.

Note: before applying the binder, the stone or concrete base is moistened with maklovitsa (wide soft flute brush), and with a direct set in place, each of its elements is dipped into water before laying. Each piece of the self-adhesive back set can be sprayed with water from an indoor gardening spray bottle immediately before placing it on the base, it does not give visible spray, but a mist.

Video: laying out the mosaic

About countertops

Mosaic countertops are back in fashion now. Mosaic furniture was extremely popular in Europe at the end of the XVII - early XIX centuries However, only a few copies of it have been preserved in museums, and most of them did not outlive their owners. The reason is simple - mineral mosaics and the organic base are completely inconsistent with each other in terms of temperature expansion coefficient, moisture absorption and strength.

For countertops and mosaics on furniture, in general, only three methods can be recommended. The first is plastic on liquid nails or mounting adhesive. The technology is elementary, you can paint white PVC with spray paints for graffiti. But plastics keep their appearance for no more than 5-7 years, and then they begin to crack and fade.

The second is a crackle eggshell mosaic. In the old days it was not used, there was not enough resistant glue. Now it can be considered fully tested for the durability of PVA; book dealers already use it without fear for the restoration of books instead of bone or fish. We will talk more about shell mosaics later.

The third is from an alabaster-adhesive mixture. Enough of such a mosaic is good, if for 10 years with careful use, but it is very easy to make and replace. Compound:

• Powdered synthetic wood glue (which dissolves in cold water) - 1 wt. h.
• Pure water room temperature- 4 parts.
• Construction alabaster - 6 parts.
• Pigment; preferably acrylic - to the desired tone.

Casting of mosaic elements

The glue is dissolved in water, then alabaster is added in portions with stirring until the consistency of liquid sour cream; after that - a pigment. In a solution of glue, alabaster does not set as quickly as in plain water, but the batch must be closed in no more than 5 minutes and prepared in portions of 200-300 ml.

Next, we take a rubber door mat with square cells and pour the mixture into it, see fig. Leveling rubber spatula. Drying continues for at least 36 hours. After the mixture hardens, the mat is slightly bent, and the "chips" themselves will crawl out of the nests, like ice cubes from a mold.

Such “pixels” are glued onto a smooth sanded wooden surface of PVA for glass and stone (not stationery) or liquid nails. The alabaster-adhesive compound does not get dirty, so additional varnishing is not required, although impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion will not hurt.

Video: mosaic table decoration

Manufacturing

Making a mosaic with your own hands begins with the preparation of the elements of the set. Most often, these are squares from 1x1 cm to 5x5 cm. They can and should be prepared for future use, so as not to be distracted from creative work later.

Here the problem arises: how to cut pieces of the same size? Tips to use pliers, side cutters, glass cutters probably come from people who have not tried it themselves - but what happens?

"Pixels" of the mosaic need to be pricked like smalt. For this, a special device is used - a stalk, see fig. Incidentally, it can be seen that this is not hand tool a pin used by sculptors. You don’t need to buy expensive smalt: the tile is also very viscous and prickly in the same way. A tile battle in a construction company or store will be sold for a penny or even given away for free, and on the fence you can chop pieces into a tile mosaic that is not inferior to Byzantine ones, there would be a taste.

Tile and smalt tattoo for mosaic

Note: porcelain stoneware is most precisely and easily pricked. Given its high resistance and durability, it is better to start mastering the “real” mosaic from porcelain stoneware, and choose a pattern according to color scheme material.

They work with the stalk like this:

• A particle is chipped off the wrong piece to make a straight edge.
• The movable stop is set to the desired size.
• Prick strips of the same width.
• Pieces are pricked from the strips.

At first glance it is simple, but there are subtleties. Firstly, you need to beat not exactly against the tip of the wedge, but with a shift to the stop by about half the thickness of the material, which should work on impact not in compression, but in shear, only then the fracture will turn out to be even and smooth. Secondly, if a glass mosaic is being made (mirror glass can be pierced on the headpiece), it is necessary to take into account the refraction in it, as shown in the inset at the top right, otherwise the glass will crack and crumble, and not break.

Thirdly, wedge. Its point must be sharp; if it is washed (glass and ceramics are harder than metal), cracks and crumbs will again go. In the old days, the wedge of the spike was made of heavily carburized tool steel (can be made from a file), it crumbled rather quickly and had to be changed. Now a piece of a guillotine shears blade with a victorious or other hard-alloy soldering will go well on the wedge, such a wedge is almost eternal.

About mosaic tiles: factory and homemade

On sale there is a special mosaic tile. This is the same tile, only small in size, from 1 to 5 cm. It costs much more than usual per square. If you don’t feel sorry for the money, you can buy and not develop the skills of stabbing yourself. However, the elements of the set, made on the spike, are in no way inferior to the factory tiles for mosaics. The size comes out even more accurately, because. there is no firing in the form and the tiles do not lead from heating. And the corners come out very sharp, which allows you to type a seamless pattern. By tilting the stop, you can get oblique pieces suitable for a set of curved lines.

Note: a seamless set comes out strong enough only on silicone. When laying on a mineral binder or other tile adhesive, joints of at least 1 mm must be given. There are almost no ready-made crosses for corners of this size on sale, so you have to lay them out in rows, using a home-made ruler from the PVC box cover and liners from it. But then you need to forget about Byzantine technology.

Binder

Ancient mosaic panels were laid out on a lime-clay mortar with a modifier:

• Lime dough - 1 part.
• Oily clay - 0.3 parts.
• Quarry or mountain clean white sand, washed and calcined - 3 parts.
• Broken eggs with shell - 3-6 pcs. on a bucket of solution.

The sand was sifted through a 1/100 inch sieve, approx. 0.25 mm. After adding the eggs, the solution was mixed until completely homogeneous, the shell particles should not be visible; the shell served as a kind of indicator of homogeneity. The eggs in the mixture did not rot at all, as the ignoramuses think. Organics interacted with clay silicates, forming a very strong and waterproof impregnation of the entire conglomerate. Putrefactive, and any other, bacteria were not allowed to develop lime.

The lime-clay mortar on the egg gained full strength after a few years. Nowadays there is no need to spend valuable food product and for a long time to protect the fruit of hard labor from accidental influences. Cement-based tile adhesive has not yet been tested for centuries, but the tile mosaic laid out on it is held on outdoors for at least several decades.

Huichol Mosaic

As for the glass mosaic, it must be laid out on glue without cement. The cheapest is PVA for glass and stone. It can be used to assemble mosaics in living quarters. Ethylene vinyl acetate adhesive (EVA) in the form of a melt of copolymers is more suitable for outdoor use, it is somewhat more expensive. And, finally, for kitchens, bathrooms and other premises where, in addition to resistance to sudden fluctuations in temperature and moisture, complete water tightness is required - silicone construction adhesive. Aquarium is even better, but its 10 ml tube costs about 20 rubles.

A mosaic made of beads or plastic can be put on the same PVA, but it is better to use nitro-glues: assembly, Moment, 88th. By the way, the famous masters of modern beaded mosaics are the Indians of the Huichol tribe, see one of their products in fig. - have long abandoned gluing with wood gum and are using silicone and nitro-glues with might and main.

Video: making and laying out mosaics

Special cases
shells

Shell mosaic

Shell mosaics are now experiencing a renaissance due to the fact that mosaicists have moved from laying out patterns from shells to creating expressive images, see fig. Shell mosaic decor adds subtle sophistication to any interior. A drawing is typed on any basis on PVA or silicone.

As a material, shells of small marine bivalve mollusks are used - balls, peas, small scallops, venus, venerupis; from freshwater - zebra mussels. The shells of some gastropods are also used, mainly top snails (nassa, Nassa sp.)

The most famous typesetting and bulk techniques, which are discussed below. In both cases, it is possible to include contours of sea sand in the drawing, most of which is a finely broken shell. For a bright white background or, say, the Sun under backlighting (see figure below), coral sand is used, which is actually the same limestone in the aragonite modification as in the shells of warm-water mollusks.

Bulk mosaic of shells

Tool

A special tool is used to process shells, for the most part homemade, see fig. The file at the top left is not a hacksaw, but a miniature jigsaw, the so-called. amber; handle is held with two fingers. It is not necessary to look for it on sale, you can make it yourself from a bicycle knitting needle.

Shell tool

Material preparation

Already when collecting the shells, you need to roughly sort by color and size. Set aside white and light gray separately, they can be tinted, see below. The sand must be washed with boiling several times until the water above it becomes almost transparent, then calcined in the oven on a baking sheet and sifted through different sieves to separate into fractions. You need to rinse in portions of a glass or two, otherwise the process will drag on indefinitely.

Note: do not neglect the dull shells of the salt sea stalk, see fig. below. Of these, tinted, mosaics of a "fence" type are obtained.

Sea stalk shell

Next, clean the sinks. Large ones with a dark outer layer - periostracum - from the horn-like substance conchiolin (freshwater toothless, barley) are treated with a soft brush with a 15% solution of hydrochloric acid. The softened conchiolin is scraped off with a tool to mother-of-pearl. After acid cleaning the sinks, immediately dip into a solution of baking soda (2 teaspoons per liter) and soak in clean water, changing it at least 5 times in half an hour.

Small shells are processed for half an hour or an hour in a diluted table vinegar; further, if toning is not required, they neutralize the acid and wash it like mother-of-pearl. If you need to tint, then the aniline dye is diluted in cold water, the shell is poured with a solution so that it barely covers it (the solution is unsuitable for reuse) and brought to a boil. The shell is allowed for tinting immediately after the acid, and after the solution has cooled, it is washed under running water, the acid is neutralized, soaked and dried.

Note: It is impossible to tint coral sand in this way, but shell sand is possible. Mollusk shells consist of alternating thin layers of conchiolin and calcite or aragonite. Toning occurs due to the penetration of the dye through the microcracks of the calcareous layers into the conchiolin. And coral sand is a product of the destruction of the skeletons of coral polyps. This is a dense mineral, in which there is no conchiolin.

For a typesetting mosaic of shells, they need to be sorted cleanly by color and size. This is the most boring and tedious part of the job. more than 5,000 shells are required on a 40x60 cm panel. Gather on glue with pressure. The contours for sand are either fenced off with strips of cardboard removed later, or covered with a template made of the same cardboard or drywall, wrapped in a thin plastic film so that it does not stick tightly.

It is easier to make a bulk shell mosaic. Firstly, one-by-one sorting of the material is not needed, it is enough to more or less accurately scatter it into colors. The filling is led to a fresh adhesive layer, adding different colors and distributing the filling with a finger, as if smearing watercolor. Contours for sand are shielded in the same way.

Glue is better to take silicone, slowly drying. Before pouring sand, the pattern is evenly pressed down with a plank, then sandy areas are smeared with glue, sand is poured in and pressed down. After the glue hardens (3-5 days), non-adhered excesses are shaken off from the panel; if necessary, glue the material into the dips (gaps). After the final drying - ready!

Shell
Training

The technique for preparing eggshells for crackle mosaics (sometimes they say in the English way - crack, from crack) is illustrated in the figure. The shell is first kept for a day or three in a solution of baking soda, this will soften the organic matter. Then the remains of the protein are removed with a brush (pos. a). The inner film from the shell does not need to be removed! Dyed in the desired colors with dye for Easter eggs; it is better to take the shell from the eaten eggs, where the paint holds more firmly.

Mosaic shell preparation

Next, on a flat wooden board, not necessarily the size of the panel, put a sheet of paper or plastic tracing paper with the rough side up, lubricate with PVA, hold until gelatinization (viscous tack, this is 3-15 minutes). The shells are laid out with a bulge up at intervals in their size, the same board is applied and pressed tightly, flattening the shells, pos. b.

Note: nitro glues ("Moment", etc.) are undesirable to use. After a year or two or three, the adhesive layer becomes brittle and the pattern deteriorates from the slightest impact.

After 10-20 minutes, the top board is removed and the shells are smoothed with a trowel - a wooden stick with a rounded end, pos. in. Then the same plank is applied again and the package is held under pressure until the glue is completely dry, pos. d. Next, we impose thin paper (cigarette, newsprint without text, or the thinnest writing, unglued) on a runny flour paste, pos. d. It remains to cut pieces with scissors under the pattern and proceed with laying, pos. e.

Spread the drawing also on PVA. After the glue has completely dried, the cover paper is soaked and removed, then the remains of the paste are washed off with a soft, damp sponge. Now you need to wait a few days until the shell is completely dry in order to proceed to the penultimate stage - the manifestation of small craquelure cracks.

Craquelures are shown with ink, dripping it from a pipette. You can immediately see how the ink diverges along the cracks. When the development has stopped, they drip onto the neighboring area, and so on until the end. Now you need to wait a few minutes and with a soft damp sponge remove the remnants of the carcass from the surface; it may take several passes, but the movements should be as light as possible, without pressure! The drawing has not gained strength yet!

The essence of the method is as follows: the composition of the carcass includes shellac and bile. Thanks to bile, the mascara spreads over the smallest cracks, and shellac, polymerizing, gives strength to the set. With free access to air, the shellac layer will come out weak and wash off, but it will stick very firmly along the cracks. Therefore, we are waiting for another day or three, and only now we are starting to complete - polishing.

Mosaic-crackle from eggshell

Polish the shell mosaic with coated paper. Any other abrasives, even as delicate as felt, can rub through a thin shell (especially if the eggs are from factory hens). The composition of coated paper includes chalk and kaolin, minerals softer than the shell. But you still need to rub a little and without pressure.

As you can see, it is simple, but it requires painstaking work. But the result can be a table with an image like that in fig. Did you salivate? And, seized by shellac, it will last at least 15 years, because thanks to bile, the ink will penetrate into the pores of the shell from the inside out.

Work examples

Here in fig. examples of homemade mosaics. The first one on the left is a shell table top. The plot is not for gourmet, but for coffee table in the boudoir just right.

Homemade mosaics

Second from the left is a bathroom with a mosaic of factory-made 5 cm tiles. Laying mosaic tiles in this case has some features. The first is pattern selection. Dolphins with naiads looked good in the huge Roman baths, even crudely executed, but modern bathrooms do not give the feeling of spaciousness necessary for the perception of such scenes.

The second - the use of black grout on a white background made it possible to get by with standard 3 mm crosses and conventional tiling techniques. By the way, there is no sense in printing a drawing for such large mosaics by sheets. You need one A4 printout to keep it in front of your eyes. And on the wall, only contours are drawn with a pencil or marker. For greater reliability, you can mark each piece with a tick of the corresponding color, colored pencil or felt-tip pen.

Next pos. - Mosaic shell. Here, too, not without subtleties. Look at any finished sink. There will definitely be curves of a small radius, at least along the edges, on which no mosaic will lie. That is, the basis for the sink must be made by yourself under the mosaic.

Most often, it is advised to use a tree for this. But, firstly, in conditions of constant humidity, it will quickly begin to rot and slip. Secondly, not every carpenter will undertake to make a product of complex shape with smooth contours from wood, not to mention do-it-yourselfers.

Therefore, it is better to take extruded polystyrene foam, XPS, as a blank for a mosaic shell. It is as strong as wood, but easy to process like foam, resistant to moisture, non-porous, and therefore hygienic. Sheets to the desired thickness are glued together with PVA without problems, but the actual mosaic must be laid on silicone. Any other binder will create a favorable environment for microbes.

And finally, the last pos. - a mosaic of broken tiles as it is, only the round ones are turned on a grinder. Thanks to the developed taste of the author and the careful selection of fragments, the drawing turned out to be very nice.

Video: mosaic decor example flower pot

Something special

Sometimes you want to create something completely your own, so that everyone, as they say, gasp. An unusual do-it-yourself mosaic can be created quite simply, and even without any tool. To do this, you first need a board of soft wood or coniferous plywood, and the board must be painted black with ink. The ink will give a deep dark background, like the screen of a display turned off.

Mosaic from pushpins

Pixels will be ordinary pushpins with slightly convex mushroom caps of different colors; they also come in silver and gold. Pin buttons with high caps will allow, due to the play of light between them, to achieve fairly thin halftones and expressiveness of the image, as in Fig.

But keep in mind - for a picture of 320x200 pixels, 64,000 buttons will be needed, and for 640x480 - 307,200, excluding the departure of those bent over. The size of the panel will be, considering the diameter of the hat at 8 mm, 2.56x1.6 m in the first case and 5.12x3.2 m in the second. Time to work - figure it out yourself. But on the other hand, it is easy to correct flaws - he pulled it out, stuck a new one.

And the most unusual of the mosaics consists of three or four-sided pyramids, the faces of which are painted in different colors. It is assembled in the opposite way to the Sumerian one: the pyramids are glued to the base with their bases. Depending on which side the light falls on, the pattern changes completely. The complexity of the work and the laboriousness are incredible; there are only a few such mosaics in the world, despite the fact that they were developed on computers.

* Calculations use average data for Russia

2 500 000 ₽

Minimum starting capital

70%

Profitability

From 12 months

Payback

From 2 000 000 ₽

mosaic equipment cost

Mosaic is an image or pattern made of particles of different shades, homogeneous or different in shades, from different materials (stone, smalt, ceramic tiles). The material, which, as a rule, has a square shape, from which this image is laid out, is also called a mosaic. The smaller the detail, the clearer and more realistic the image can be laid out from it.

Where is mosaic used?

It is used for interior and exterior decoration, for decorating walls and floors, as well as for landscape design. Used to make mosaics a large number of a variety of materials. Each type of raw material from which a mosaic is made today has its own characteristics. characteristic features which makes it suitable for use in some conditions and not suitable for use in others.

In most cases, inexpensive mosaics are made from ceramics. Ceramic mosaic resembles in appearance and in its properties the usual ceramic tiles. The difference is only in size. In the process of manufacturing ceramic tiles, low-porous ceramics are necessarily used. This material is characterized by high frost resistance and low water absorption.

A special glaze can also be used, which is needed in order to prevent the formation of water stone on the surface of the mosaic, as well as to preserve the colors of the product even under the influence of an aggressive environment and water. In the process of mosaic production, a wide variety of natural stone can also be used, starting with ordinary natural tufa and ending with rare rocks of jasper and marble.

Features of the manufacture of different types of mosaics

Natural stone has no restrictions in terms of texture either - it is polished, ground or aged during the production process. In the latter case, the edges of the tiles have a smoother texture and muted colors. Inexpensive mosaic is made from artificial granite. This material, on the one hand, is of natural origin, and on the other hand, it is produced using modern technologies, during which granite is mixed with broken glass. Such a mosaic is distinguished by high strength (like natural granite) and unusual effects (like artificial materials).

A significant part of the expensive mosaic is made from smalt. This material has been known since antiquity, but, of course, the modern technology for the production of such a mosaic has undergone significant changes today. The glass used in the production undergoes a special treatment with various metal oxides, and then heated to a high temperature. As a result of such procedures, glass acquires various physical and Chemical properties– impact resistance, resistance to low temperatures, resistance to various aggressive environments. Smalt, like natural stone, does not have a uniform color.

Even in the same batch, puzzle pieces may have different shades, which creates unusual effects on a large surface. An alternative to expensive smalte is special glass, which has such properties as water resistance, impact resistance, wear resistance, and withstands temperature changes. An additional advantage of glass, unlike, for example, ceramics, is that its structure is continuous, so it is not affected by various harmful bacteria and microorganisms. Mosaic production technology directly depends on the raw materials from which it is made.

For example, the production process of ceramic mosaics is similar to the method by which ordinary ceramic tiles are made. Simplified, it can be represented as follows: at the first stage, a mixture of clay, quartz sand, kaolin, feldspar and various pigments is laid out in shapes, then pressed, and then glazed and fired.

For the manufacture of mosaics with a natural shade, dry non-chamotte mixtures are used. In the production of colored mosaics, i.e. with the addition of a dye, slip mixtures are used. This production process is fully automated. Porcelain stoneware mosaic tiles are made by a different, more in a simple way. In this case, the finished porcelain stoneware sheet is simply cut into small pieces using a waterjet tool. Glass mosaic is made from durable sheet glass. First, such glass is painted with special paints that can withstand high temperatures. Then it is transferred to cutting, where it is cut into the required formats. At the next stage, these small fragments are collected on special substrates.

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And finally, semi-finished products are loaded into the kiln for the most critical stage of the production process, which is firing. In the oven, the mosaic pieces are heat treated at a temperature of 900ºС. In the process of such firing, the paint is baked into the glass, its surface is hardened, and the corners are melted and become smooth.

Regardless of the material from which the carpet mosaic is made, one of the final processes of its production, as a rule, is the same and is a sticker of finished pieces of the future mosaic on the base. This process is also automated. First, a template is fed onto the conveyor - a special aluminum cassette, the size of the nests of which corresponds to the dimensions of the blanks, and the depth is somewhat smaller, which makes it possible to easily remove the finished mosaic from the cells in the future. These nests are separated by special partitions, in place of which tile joints are then formed.

Mosaic tiles must be placed in the cassette so that its front side always looks up. Then the aluminum cassette enters the tunnel with powerful gas burners where it is heated to the required temperature. At the penultimate stage, a special paper base impregnated with an adhesive solution is applied to the finished mosaic, which is called a matrix or carpet (hence the name - carpet mosaic).

In most cases, matrices have standard sizes- 424x672 mm. The width of the tile joints is 4 mm. And as the basis for the matrix, one of the varieties of Kraft wrapping paper is used. Mosaic with a paper base is sent to the drying chamber, and after leaving it, the mosaic carpet is removed from the conveyor belt and transferred to a forklift. Then the sheets are formed into stacks and sent for sorting, packaging and shipping or storage in a warehouse.

The cost of organizing the production of mosaics

The cost depends on the material used and the technology of its production. Even a mosaic from the same raw material can be made different ways. For example, glass mosaics can be produced by stamping quartz glass using various plasticizers or by casting. The industrial line for the production of glass mosaic includes a tunnel kiln (24 m), a printing line for glass coloring (in turn, it includes printing machines with dryers), metal drying racks, machines for breaking glass, compresses, a prepress complex, dead-end furnace for small orders. You will also need spare parts for equipment, tools necessary for working with glass, and raw materials.

The latter includes high-strength sheet glass or cullet, high-quality glazes and paints (inorganic pigments), waterproof mounting mesh, waterproof glue. There is a fairly wide selection of equipment for the production of glass mosaic tiles on the Russian market. Its cost ranges from 2 million rubles (second-hand equipment of low power) to 15-17 million rubles. This is how much the Italian line with a capacity of 8,000 to 12,000 sq. meters of mosaic per month (volumes depend on the size of the produced tiles) with installation, recipe and training of personnel to work with it.

Ready-made ideas for your business

With the help of such equipment, it is possible to produce glass mosaic tiles in five sizes: 10x10 mm, 15x15 mm, 20x20 mm, 25x25 mm and 36x36 mm. As the main raw material, it is recommended to use window cullet, as well as dyes (European or Chinese production).

According to the suppliers of such equipment, the products made with its help are not inferior in quality to the mosaic of Spanish and Italian companies (although, of course, the quality largely depends not only on the equipment, but also on technology, specialists and raw materials). The profitability of this type of business is declared by them as 70% for wholesale sales and up to 250% for retail sales. The payback period is, with such data, no more than a year. In practice, the profitability of a glass mosaic enterprise turns out to be somewhat lower and rarely exceeds 50% (although this figure can be considered high).

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Do-it-yourself decorative mosaic can be created from different materials. At home, they use glass and ceramics, eggshells, pebbles and shells, waste materials. You can make mosaic elements yourself and paint them in the desired shades.

If natural or waste material is used (sand, stones, shells, broken glass and ceramics, plastic lids, etc.), then it must be sorted by color. To make a mosaic with your own hands from a tile or glass cullet, you need to chop the pieces into fragments of a convenient shape and size.

It is necessary to prick a tile or glass using a special tool - a pricker. It's a sharp metal wedge. A flat piece of ceramic or glass is placed on it, a strip is broken off with a blow of a hammer, which is then divided into squares. In the absence of a spike, for small-scale work, locksmith pliers can be used.

To make mosaic elements at home, you can use 2 techniques:

1. Make a solution of wood powder glue for dissolving in cold liquid (1 part), water (4 parts), add 6 parts of building alabaster and pigment to it, mix thoroughly and pour into rubber or silicone molds (2x2 cm squares). After 2 days, the finished parts can be removed from the molds and used for typing.
2. Mosaic material is easy to make from store-bought epoxy adhesive (EDP) by preparing it according to the instructions and mixing it with pigment powder. Pour it into the same forms. Resin curing may take longer than indicated in the instructions, depending on the size and thickness of the elements.

You can make a mosaic from fragments of porcelain dishes. Sometimes it includes large parts (tea spouts, cup handles, etc.).

What surface to take as a base?

You can decorate almost any surface with a mosaic. It is best if the base material and the adhesive composition for the mosaic match each other in terms of thermal expansion properties (for example, ceramics, tile adhesive and concrete base). But often, mosaics on a cement binder are used to decorate countertops or other wooden surfaces.

The easiest way to glue the mosaic on a flat and even surface. But even on curvilinear products, such decor looks beautiful. You can make it on any object of complex shape, you just have to choose smaller fragments.

Beginners need to master simple kitting techniques: direct and bulk methods on a flat surface. As you gain skills, you can reverse the set and finish curved surfaces.

We create a unique pattern

Designing an ornament is a creative process that is not subject to any standards. You can lay out with a mosaic any drawing that the master liked. If it is a small image, you can enlarge it using the projector or manually. For the last method, you need to break the original drawing into squares, then make a grid of enlarged fragments and redraw the contents of each square in a form enlarged to the desired size.

If a person has artistic skills, then he will be able to draw any pattern or picture for a panel on his own. Also, the picture can be enlarged and printed using computer technology.

Draw a Sketch

A sketch is a picture of an object as it will look when finished. A sketch of a mosaic panel must be done in color. This will help you navigate when compiling a set and makes it possible to evaluate in advance how the colors will look in the interior. The sketch is most convenient to draw in life size, so it will be clearer where small elements are needed.

For a geometric pattern, a sketch can be made in the form of a knitting or cross-stitch pattern. According to this scheme, it is convenient to count the number of small squares-pixels, from which mosaics are most often made.

Mosaic laying

A ceramic, glass or stone mosaic picture can be made using the direct set method. At the same time, do-it-yourself mosaic laying is carried out in the following sequence:

Mosaic can be bought ready-made. It consists of square elements made of ceramics, artificial or natural stone, glued onto a special mesh. Some varieties have an adhesive layer. They are mounted on a leveled and primed surface. After that, the mosaic is overwritten. If there is no adhesive layer, 0.5 cm of tile adhesive is applied to the wall and sheets of the finished mosaic are mounted, pressing them down with a plank.

Other ways to make mosaics

Simple master classes will help you assemble a mosaic picture in a different way. Reverse way implies laying out the set in a mirror image and inside out. You can make it with the help of transparent self-adhesive:

1. Transfer the contour drawing to paper in full size.
2. Spread the self-adhesive adhesive layer up on it.
3. Gradually removing the protective layer, lay out the typesetting according to the plan, pressing the front side of each element to the sticky surface of the film.
4. When the set is finished, it can be transferred to a wall or other surface.

If the mosaic area is large, you can transfer the panels in parts, carefully cutting the film with a sharp knife between the elements of the set. Before transferring, 0.5-0.7 cm of tile adhesive is applied to the surface to be trimmed. The fragment must be pressed against it with a plank, apply glue to the adjacent section of the wall and continue to work. After 24 hours, carefully remove the film.

Mosaic-crackle trim furniture. The material for its manufacture is eggshell, which can be dyed in different shades with dyes for Easter eggs. Lay thin paper on a flat surface, lubricate with PVA. Glue needs to withstand 3-19 minutes. On a slightly dried layer, lay out the pieces of the shell with the convex side up, leaving gaps between them. A plank is placed on top of the shell and pressed down, breaking the material into smaller fragments.

After 10 minutes, remove the board, correct the fragments, placing them more evenly, then press again and hold under the load for about 24 hours. Then the entire surface must be sealed with a layer of thin paper on a flour paste, dried, and proceed with cutting the mosaic along the contours of the pattern and transferring it to the base. Glue it on PVA. When the panel dries, you can remove the top paper from it (soak before removing) and wrinkle the paste. Ink is used to develop cracks: you need to drip it from a pipette and wait for it to spread over the cracks. Remove the remaining ink from the surface with a sponge and dry the panel well.

Grouting and further care

Mosaic paintings made of ceramics, glass or stone require a finishing layer - grouting. The working composition can be the same tile adhesive, tinted in the desired shade. If the mosaic is intended for use in a damp room or outdoors, it is better to take moisture-resistant grouts (for bathrooms and pools, for outdoor work, etc.).

The solution is applied to the surface of the dried set and rubbed between the elements with a rubber spatula. Excess should be removed immediately with a damp cloth, smoothing the surface of the grout. After it has set, remove stains from the surface of the mosaic. The finished panel is polished with a clean, dry soft cloth or felt, finally removing all remnants of the grout.