How to make a round table with your own hands. How to make a round table with your own hands. Making your own wooden table with benches in the gazebo

Make lunch round table with your own hands, and you will not only replenish the house with a new piece of furniture, but also improve relationships. Psychologists note that the absence of corners, together with the equidistant position of all those seated, contribute to a special trusting comfortable atmosphere of communication. Unfortunately, the round shape is not the most ergonomic for a small space filled with other items. But if you make a table yourself, then you have the opportunity to adjust the size for a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Today, in the production of tables, traditional wood materials, metal, glass, plastic, etc. Best Choice for self-manufacturing are laminated chipboard (at least 25 mm thick), dense birch plywood (not thinner than 35 mm), wooden boards for countertops and wooden beam(not less than 50 mm) or metal for the supporting structure.

The generally accepted parameters for the height of kitchen tables are in the range from 750 to 800 mm.

When preparing a drawing, it is necessary to take into account all the vertical dimensions of the structure: the legs themselves, the connecting structure, the thickness of the table top. But the diameter of the countertop itself depends on the tasks and conditions of the room where the product will be located.

What is the main thing on the table? A solid, smooth table top and a solid base that can support its weight and everything on it. Although other characteristics are also important, for example, the quality of the coating. It must be resistant to abrasion, scratching, moisture and temperature, etc. The proposed round table model is designed to meet all the necessary requirements.

In the work on creating a wooden table, we will use the following tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver or drill;
• grinding machine (or grinding nozzle for a drill);
• wood screws and confirmations;
• multi-stage drill for holes for confirmations;
• edge tape if you are using chipboard;
• tinting for wood in the color of chipboard;
• varnish for finish coat wooden details.

The round table will be made from:

• sheet of chipboard or birch plywood 150x150 cm - table top;
• a sheet of laminated chipboard or birch plywood 128x128 cm - a binding disk;
• 4 bars 12x5x75 cm, 2 planks measuring 111x12x2.5 - legs.

Without special mechanisms and experience, it is difficult to independently cut the table top and disc for connection with the table leg from sheets of solid material. Therefore, it is better to contact a professional, providing him with the required measurements and drawings. The diameter of the large table top circle is 128 cm, and the base circle is 104 cm.

For those who love strong and simple furniture, the reliability of which has been tested for many decades, will undoubtedly please the table in the Provence style. Also, its advantage is the material of manufacture - natural wood. Tabletop diameter is 48 inches (121.92 cm), table height is 30 inches (76.2 cm).

Before you make a round table, be sure to prepare the necessary set of tools:

• roulette;
• grinder with nozzles of different grain sizes;
• electric drill;
• electric jigsaw;
• miter saw, can be replaced with a circular saw;
• if possible, apply modern device, which helps to fix joints, workpieces, to carry out the most complex fastenings with self-tapping screws;
• screws 7-8 cm;
• screws 6 cm;
• screws 3 cm;
• confirmations 6.3 cm;
• glue, Decoration Materials on wood.

If you have the opportunity and sufficient experience, from lumber (plywood, wooden planks and timber) cut the blanks of the specified parameters. Color drawings show the location of parts in the product, study them carefully.

• 1 piece of the central support 4x4x23.25 inches (10.16x10.16x59.055 cm);
• 1 part of the upper cross of the support 2x4x43 inches (5.08x10.16x109.22 cm);
• 2 parts of the upper cross of the support 2x4x19 inches (5.08x10.16x48.26 cm);
• 1 part of the lower cross of the support 2x6x18.5 inches (5.08x15.24x46.99 cm);
• 4 base parts for the lower part of the support 1x6x6.5 inches (2.54x15.24x16.51 cm);

• 8 rafters 2x4x14 inches (5.08x10.16x35.56 cm);
• 2 tabletop mounting segments 2x6x6.5 inches (5.08x15.24x16.51 cm);

The dimensions of the blanks for the countertop do not match the parameters of the scheme. After mounting on a plywood sheet, they will be cut to give the countertop a round shape.

1. Assemble the base base. Fasten the halves of the crosses to the central whole part of the leg, use glue and 3 euro screws for each connection. Also with confirmations, with glue, attach the lower segments of the base (red).

1. You can purchase a pre-made countertop or use a part from an old table. In this case, you can install the circle on the finished base, align the position. After that, proceed to attaching the tabletop to the upper crosspiece with confirmations. Screw in 3 for each connection. Don't forget to reinforce the bond further with glue.
2. The wooden table is assembled, you can start finishing. First of all, fill in the bumps and indentations from the confirmations with a special filler.
3. After drying, carefully sand the entire product. Use the coarse grit attachment first, then move on to finer grit.
4. Cover the round table with several layers of varnish. 1-2 applications will emphasize the beauty and texture of wood, 3-4 will give a glossy shine to surfaces. Instead of varnish, at the request of the master, the table can be painted or decorated in any chosen way.

It is nice to gather in the evening at a large table with the whole family. Even nicer - when the table is made by hand. What shape the table should be - it's up to you: square, rectangular or round. The circle is the perfect shape. It is no coincidence that in nature there are a lot of analogues of this form - the sun, the moon, the rings on the saw cuts of a tree.

It is proved that the circle gives harmony, has a beneficial effect on the psychological comfort of a person. Round tables are often used to create a relaxed and informal atmosphere in the business meetings. If you doubt how it will fit into the interior, you can consider a photo of a handmade round table.

The round table of the house will fit well into any interior. Most a budget option is to make a round table with your own hands. Despite the fact that at first glance it seems quite complicated, assembling such a table will be quite simple.

What are the options for round tables

A round table is not only a tabletop with legs. Furniture manufacturers decided to diversify the variations of the products offered and made several options (which can then be easily repeated at home):

• The central leg or curbstone - one.
• Three legs.
• Four pillars.
• Several supports in the middle.
• Tables can have several shelves, drawers that slide out, cabinets and more. Can be sliding, folding and transformers.

The material for the manufacture of a round table can be varied. For its production, MDF, plywood, stone (natural or artificial), plastic, metal, glass can be used.

DIY wooden table at home

Before making a round table, determine its dimensions - it should be small, coffee table, dining large or medium. Do not forget to take into account the size of the room in which the table will stand. Before production, it is necessary to determine in advance the drawings and dimensions of round tables.

What materials are needed to make a round table? In order to make a table out of wood with your own hands, you will need timber, wood glue (carpentry), metal corners (each table leg will require 3 pieces), self-tapping screws, varnish or waterproof impregnation in order to process wood.

Additional tools that you may need - a saw or a jigsaw, a pencil, a tape measure, a drill, brushes, sandpaper, a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

Preparatory stage

Before all work, you must read the instructions on how to properly make a round table. All parts require careful preparation before assembly. For the countertop, you will need material in the form of a disk or a circle.

Plywood should be sanded and covered with several layers of varnish. The procedure for grinding and varnishing must be repeated with the legs for the table. They are attached to the tabletop with a plywood ring.

Assembly

On the plywood ring, you must first make markings for future holes - legs will be placed there. On the markup, you need to drill holes of the required diameter with a drill. The legs are a bar sawn into 4 parts. Before fixing them on the countertop, they must be processed.

Use a screwdriver to attach to the ring. Be sure to fix the legs well - this will give reliability and stability to the table. Between the legs under the tabletop, you can install two plywood planks crosswise. This will add even more stability to the structure.

After completing the assembly of the round table, as soon as the glue dries, you can begin to decorate the structure. For this, varnish, stain or paint is used. In order for the table to serve for a long time and look beautiful, you can use varnish and stain together. First, saturate the entire surface with a stain, and then comes the stage of varnishing.

Using products that contain a coloring pigment, you can even give ordinary plywood a noble look of expensive materials - mahogany, oak or beech. For this, it is necessary to use during finishing transparent furniture varnish. Applied with a foam paint roller. This will allow you to apply the varnish evenly and without bubbles.

If you plan to use furniture in your backyard, use water-based acrylic paints for decoration. To do this, it will be necessary to add a special pigment to the white enamel.

Note!

Making and assembling a round table with your own hands is a very simple and exciting process. You can embody any ideas on how to make a round table with your own hands, there are no restrictions on imagination and materials.

DIY round tables photo

Note!

Note!

One of the mandatory attributes of human habitation is a table. It should be in the apartment, and in the cottage, and summer house in the country.

Making a wooden table with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it seems at first glance. simple design, which is suitable for giving, can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if he first picked up a carpentry tool.

More complex models, which will decorate the kitchen or living room, will require creativity and certain skills, but this work is also doable if certain rules are followed.

Possible options

Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:

• with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
• corner - help save interior space;
• transformers - multifunctional structures;
• folding and sliding - allow you to place a large number of guests;
• "Books" - a common modification of a folding table.

It is noteworthy, but all of the listed options for tables can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from improvised materials.

Regardless of the design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, to match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.

Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.

Preparatory stage

Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what's required home master during the production process.

Blueprints

This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visualize the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Ready-made drawings can be searched on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Web users, describing in detail each stage of production.

If we are talking about a unique table design that you plan to create according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. Special attention It is recommended to pay attention to the following points:

• external dimensions (length, width, height);
• fixing the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center, rectangular designs require 1 support at each corner;
• mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).

It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before assembly or after it.

Material

It is no secret that a tree of different species has various properties and not the entire array is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.

Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many hardwoods (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is convenient in processing, but the manufactured table will require additional protective coating, especially if it is intended to be used on outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. An exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.

Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but in the process of processing one cannot do without a power tool.

Heavy duty . This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the workshops of industrial enterprises.

Tool

The simplest rough board table can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:

• electric jigsaw;
• grinder;
• Screwdriver Set;
• drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
• roulette;
• simple pencil;
• square.

In addition, wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sidewalls, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be turning or milling machine on wood, but not everyone has such tools.

Homemade tables for a summer residence

The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary, at first glance, pallets are ready-made raw materials that require little to no additional processing, but offer several options for use. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.

Such a design is made elementarily. One pallet is attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Installation height is selected individually. The working part - the table top - is attached to the fixed base. The elements are articulated with each other by two chains that will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 loops are placed at the junctions of the pallets; in addition, a locking mechanism can be installed, for example, a hook that will hold such a table in the closed position.

A more complex option is a pallet coffee table that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, painted. After that, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop, fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.

Using leftover building materials

Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.

Here you need to follow the following instructions:

• assemble the frame. To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To save the geometry, we use a square. At the junctions, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
• fasten the legs. For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed on the inside of the frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;
• stiffening rib . Approximately in the middle of the legs, an additional crossbar made of wood is nailed. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other little things necessary in the household;
• countertop . The remaining boards go here, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, attached to the frame with finishing nails.

At the final stage, all surfaces are treated grinder primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in this case, the tree will last much longer. And if you walk along the boards with a brush for brushing and apply a stain on top, you get an antique table.

Table with benches

This option is great for a garden, a wooden structure is installed permanently, depending on the chosen size, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together threaded connection: steel studs.

The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble the bench, you will need:

• 3 long boards that will go on the seat;
• 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
• 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
• 1 board is shorter by 25-30 cm of the length of the seat - a stiffener.

note that all the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.

Shops are assembled according to this scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short crossbars. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.

Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close, it is better to leave small gaps.

The finished seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.

After preparing the base, a table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting the support posts are made according to the principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches. The result is a handy DIY wood kitchen table that can be used for family reunions.

Round tables

Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if in the yard high-rise building or next to the backyard there is a felling of old trees, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. For this, a saw cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round shape 5-7 centimeters thick is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.

If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round-shaped countertop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:

• length - 2000 mm;
• width - 250 mm;
• thickness - 40 mm.

The boards are tightly interconnected (not fastened), a circle is drawn on the surface desired diameter. After that, the boards are cut with an electric jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from the bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are supposed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed with the help of corners, after assembly the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in the apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.

An oval table is assembled according to a similar principle. The only difference is that on the interconnected boards, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals along the ends. Boards are cut with a jigsaw along the line. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge will be required, so it is better to order such elements in furniture production.

Transforming tables

A folding table made of wood, made with your own hands and capable of changing its original shape, is a real masterpiece. Folding designs look equally advantageous in the country and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The easiest option is to make a transformer for the backyard, and this task can be done on your own.

To surprise guests and get a comfortable wooden picnic table, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs. The seat is made of 3 boards, interconnected by crossbars. There is one caveat here: the edge of the crossbar, which is located on the back side, should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the edges of the seat.

Table legs are available in different lengths. A short support post is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the backrest. Note that the recommended height of the backrest should vary between 60-90 cm. Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack, where the latch for the back will be inserted.

After completing all the operations, they get 2 benches, on which you can sit quite comfortably, discussing last news or watching the sunset. If you raise the backs of these benches and move them towards each other, you get a table with two rows of seats. Given the width of each backrest, a tabletop measuring 120-180 cm is obtained.

Computer desk

If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems to be a rather complex design. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, storage boxes for discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.

Here you can try something like this:

• steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made under the shelf where it will stand system unit, and two similar elements from the other end;
• the countertop is made from cut-to-size boards or a fiberboard sheet;
• shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.

All elements are interconnected by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, such a design is inferior to factory counterparts in terms of external design, but it is many times cheaper and does its job quite well.

Processing and exterior finishing

To make a homemade wooden table have a presentable appearance and retained its properties for as long as possible; before assembly, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are carefully polished, small flaws are masked with putty. Then varnish is applied: it is better to choose acrylic-based compositions that are safe to use.

To prolong the service life, wooden tables It is recommended to protect from strong wetting and direct sunlight. In the garden in the country, it is better to install them in a shaded place, and cover them with foil during rain.

Since ancient times, round tables have been considered a symbol of equality and unification of all those present. The round table is easy to use and practical - there are no problems and questions about who will sit on the corner. Massive oak tables are luxurious pieces of furniture, but they are not always convenient for daily use.

The round table is usually made of oak or pine.

A great option is to make a folding round table with your own hands, which can be adjusted in size and folded from time to time so that it does not take up space in a small room.

How to make a round table for the house?

To prepare the table shape, you need the following materials and tools:

• ruler;
• pencil;
• scissors;
• glue;
• large compass;
• whatman.

The material from which the table will be made can be absolutely any. If you are new to this business, you can use coniferous wood, and if you have already dealt with wood and know how to work extremely accurately and efficiently, use oak or mahogany.

We connect several large sheets (whatman paper) with PVA glue. Now, with the help of a compass, we draw a circle of the desired size.

If you do not have a suitable compass, you can use any round element or make a compass from 2 bars or sticks by attaching a pencil to one of them and an awl (or any sharp object) to the other.

When you have a smooth drawing, cut off any excess paper (don't throw it away, you'll still need it!). We fold the resulting circle in half 4 times so that the circle is divided into 8 small triangles. Now we retreat 5-6 cm from the bases of the triangles and connect the points with straight lines along the entire circumference.

Back to index

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not kept at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the most weakness table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. AT small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them to you willingly and for quite affordable price they will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed out into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. Tiled and her fight is glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with drinking grout, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not catch the eye for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. Raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dinner table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And unfolding, hold romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, banquet tables for the living room are more or less in full let's leave, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class